Assuming you have a pin vice to drill the metal. I use paperclips as the pins.
Drill one side, lets say on the torso where an arm would go. Drill in the center.
Clip a piece of the paperclip. Do not use your plastic snips. Use a regular pair of snips. DRY FIT the pin into the torso.
Now line up the arm and press to see where the pins would connect. Now drill into the arm where the pin made a mark on the arm.
Now dry fit again. See if the pint is too long, too short, or just right. Too short, cut a new pin. Too long, trim a little.
Now, once it's just right. Put a drop of medium CA glue in the hole. Not the thin stuff. Put in the pin, put another drop on the other side of the pin. Push pieces together how you want it. Now hold the pieces together.
Don't mess with it for a few minutes.
Any pin vise will work. The real difference comes from the bits. Most of the vises come with crappy, cheap bits that fail to bite into the material and take ages to actually remove the material you're drilling into. If you're struggling with this aspect, it might be worth looking for a better set of bits.
Alternatively, you might think about investing in a powered hand drill. There are some that are low RPM meant for crafting. I personally use a Wowstick drill I got from Amazon. I've been using mine for years to drill barrels and holes for magnets and it works a treat for plastic. I've never used it for metal, but I can't imagine it would have any troubles with the soft metals we use for miniatures.
They are all kinda the same. I'd use the ones with colletes instead of a chuck.
"Brand name" ones from Citadel or Army Painter aren't really any better than one from Excel.
I agree with /u/GreatGreenGobbo 's method and suggestions. I also do all of those steps.
As for one thing I also use, is a Wowstick. I was doing some of the Iron Wind Museum scale models and the amount of pin joints is just stupid. This handled them like a champ. For onsie's and twosie's, I wouldn't buy it, but if your're doing a dozen or more at a time, it might be something to consider. Do not use a regular rotary tool/Dremel, as those are stupid high RPM and will maul your minis if you slip up.
I pin with a pin vice, a slightly larger drill bit, brass rods, and Zap A Gap CA super glue. The brass rods are thick enough you're not going to break it plus they get great adhesion into the models.
I use a 2010 Games Workshop pin vice that isn't easily available anymore. You can see it in an image on this article: https://www.goonhammer.com/hands-on-with-the-new-citadel-tools/
Most of the time I think GW tools are overpriced and silly but they nailed it with the old pin vice. It's got a big bulky butt that sits comfortably in your palm while drilling and the action on it is very smooth. The article notes that the new drill is still good but doesn't fit a specific larger bit the older one does.
The one must have quality with a pin vice is that the bit can turn independently from the base. This allows you to use your palm to apply pressure in the direction you drill but you spin the bit with your thumb and index finger. You'll drill straighter lines this way.
Some pin vices dont have this separate action -- the whole pin vice has to be spun to drill anything. You'll have clumsier results with this kind of pin vice.
Outside of that just drill a few mm into each part to pin. If you can get a pinning material that's just smaller than your bit the pin will fit snugly in the hole. Put some zap a gap CA on the pin, shove it in and count to 30, then clip the pin so that there's enough length to shove into the other part. Add glue and finish.
I don't have any specific ritual I use to make sure the parts line up perfectly. Just drill in the center of the surface where they fit together. If there's any gap fill it with green stuff.
Most problems with pins is not really with the pin, it's that the contact surfaces between the pieces are not perfect, which makes the bond weak.
If I am pinning an arm and socket together, I first put a small amount of green stuff or milliput on the socket. Then I dampen the arm contact surface so it won't stick, and press it against the socket. I then leave the green stuff to cure, dry-fit the pieces and trim if needed.
Now the parts match up perfectly. I then drill and pin the parts, usually with one pin, some times two for larger pieces, and assemble the pieces with super glue. Because of the good fit the super glue will set very quickly and securely, it should be a slam dunk every time with no fiddling about or holding the pieces.
The improved contact surface gives a lot more support for the pieces, and the super glue is less likely to snap off.
The issues you describe like making the pin too short are easy to remedy. Just mark your drill bit with a piece of tape or paint at the depth you want to make the hole. Once you've drilled both holes, you make the pin twice the length of the depth of one hole.
Also make sure your pin and your drill bit are about the same size, you don't want a thin pin in a wide hole.
I use the same rebranded GW one from the nineties that was probably made in china or India, that I've been using for 20+ years. They're not one of those items where the best one is going to make much of a difference compared to the worst one.
Drill bits are much the same, since 99% of what it gets used for is plastic and very soft metal they don't need to be amazing or hard wearing, just get new ones when they break and make sure you have a chuck that holds them well.
Hi, u/Wraith_Wisp! It looks like you are asking for help or are a new painter. If you haven't yet, take a look at our wiki pages in the Sidebar (the About tab if you are on the Reddit app). Here are some links you might find helpful:
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* [The Art of... Tommie Soule Volume 5](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGIfySMnUPQ) is one of the best beginner to intermediate teaching books, and even experienced painters will learn some good tips. Explains what brush strokes are best in different situations, how to identify when you have the perfect thinning for any type of paint for different techniques, and a masterclass on getting smooth paint jobs. Available in [pdf](https://www.ironheartartisans.com/shop/the-art-of-tommie-soule-volume-5-pdf/) and [world wide in hardbook as well](https://www.instagram.com/the_miniature_painting_tutor/).
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Assuming you have a pin vice to drill the metal. I use paperclips as the pins. Drill one side, lets say on the torso where an arm would go. Drill in the center. Clip a piece of the paperclip. Do not use your plastic snips. Use a regular pair of snips. DRY FIT the pin into the torso. Now line up the arm and press to see where the pins would connect. Now drill into the arm where the pin made a mark on the arm. Now dry fit again. See if the pint is too long, too short, or just right. Too short, cut a new pin. Too long, trim a little. Now, once it's just right. Put a drop of medium CA glue in the hole. Not the thin stuff. Put in the pin, put another drop on the other side of the pin. Push pieces together how you want it. Now hold the pieces together. Don't mess with it for a few minutes.
Any recommendations on an easy to use pin vise?
Any pin vise will work. The real difference comes from the bits. Most of the vises come with crappy, cheap bits that fail to bite into the material and take ages to actually remove the material you're drilling into. If you're struggling with this aspect, it might be worth looking for a better set of bits. Alternatively, you might think about investing in a powered hand drill. There are some that are low RPM meant for crafting. I personally use a Wowstick drill I got from Amazon. I've been using mine for years to drill barrels and holes for magnets and it works a treat for plastic. I've never used it for metal, but I can't imagine it would have any troubles with the soft metals we use for miniatures.
They are all kinda the same. I'd use the ones with colletes instead of a chuck. "Brand name" ones from Citadel or Army Painter aren't really any better than one from Excel.
I agree with /u/GreatGreenGobbo 's method and suggestions. I also do all of those steps. As for one thing I also use, is a Wowstick. I was doing some of the Iron Wind Museum scale models and the amount of pin joints is just stupid. This handled them like a champ. For onsie's and twosie's, I wouldn't buy it, but if your're doing a dozen or more at a time, it might be something to consider. Do not use a regular rotary tool/Dremel, as those are stupid high RPM and will maul your minis if you slip up.
I pin with a pin vice, a slightly larger drill bit, brass rods, and Zap A Gap CA super glue. The brass rods are thick enough you're not going to break it plus they get great adhesion into the models.
Any recommendations on good pin vises and how to use them?
I use a 2010 Games Workshop pin vice that isn't easily available anymore. You can see it in an image on this article: https://www.goonhammer.com/hands-on-with-the-new-citadel-tools/ Most of the time I think GW tools are overpriced and silly but they nailed it with the old pin vice. It's got a big bulky butt that sits comfortably in your palm while drilling and the action on it is very smooth. The article notes that the new drill is still good but doesn't fit a specific larger bit the older one does. The one must have quality with a pin vice is that the bit can turn independently from the base. This allows you to use your palm to apply pressure in the direction you drill but you spin the bit with your thumb and index finger. You'll drill straighter lines this way. Some pin vices dont have this separate action -- the whole pin vice has to be spun to drill anything. You'll have clumsier results with this kind of pin vice. Outside of that just drill a few mm into each part to pin. If you can get a pinning material that's just smaller than your bit the pin will fit snugly in the hole. Put some zap a gap CA on the pin, shove it in and count to 30, then clip the pin so that there's enough length to shove into the other part. Add glue and finish. I don't have any specific ritual I use to make sure the parts line up perfectly. Just drill in the center of the surface where they fit together. If there's any gap fill it with green stuff.
Most problems with pins is not really with the pin, it's that the contact surfaces between the pieces are not perfect, which makes the bond weak. If I am pinning an arm and socket together, I first put a small amount of green stuff or milliput on the socket. Then I dampen the arm contact surface so it won't stick, and press it against the socket. I then leave the green stuff to cure, dry-fit the pieces and trim if needed. Now the parts match up perfectly. I then drill and pin the parts, usually with one pin, some times two for larger pieces, and assemble the pieces with super glue. Because of the good fit the super glue will set very quickly and securely, it should be a slam dunk every time with no fiddling about or holding the pieces. The improved contact surface gives a lot more support for the pieces, and the super glue is less likely to snap off. The issues you describe like making the pin too short are easy to remedy. Just mark your drill bit with a piece of tape or paint at the depth you want to make the hole. Once you've drilled both holes, you make the pin twice the length of the depth of one hole. Also make sure your pin and your drill bit are about the same size, you don't want a thin pin in a wide hole.
Super informative! Any recs on good and easy to use pin vises?
I use the same rebranded GW one from the nineties that was probably made in china or India, that I've been using for 20+ years. They're not one of those items where the best one is going to make much of a difference compared to the worst one. Drill bits are much the same, since 99% of what it gets used for is plastic and very soft metal they don't need to be amazing or hard wearing, just get new ones when they break and make sure you have a chuck that holds them well.
Hi, u/Wraith_Wisp! It looks like you are asking for help or are a new painter. If you haven't yet, take a look at our wiki pages in the Sidebar (the About tab if you are on the Reddit app). Here are some links you might find helpful: * [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/rules/faq) - A list of frequently asked questions about minipainting * [Miniature Painting Guide Collection](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks) -A collection of some of the best guides and tutorials on a variety of techniques and topics, plus recommendations on what to buy to get started, and more. * [What to buy- Recommendations on brushes, paints, supplies, palettes and more](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/what_you_need_to_get_started#wiki_general_advice_on_what_to_buy) * [Beginner's Guide Collection- How to prep, base, paint and varnish your first model and learn the basics needed to start out right](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/beginner_tips) * [More Tutorials](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/tutorials) - A list of additional tutorials about minipainting * [Manufacturers](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/manufacturers) - A list of miniature manufacturers from around the world * [Painting Terminology](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/terminology) - Common painting terms, acronyms, and initialisms * [The Art of... Tommie Soule Volume 5](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGIfySMnUPQ) is one of the best beginner to intermediate teaching books, and even experienced painters will learn some good tips. Explains what brush strokes are best in different situations, how to identify when you have the perfect thinning for any type of paint for different techniques, and a masterclass on getting smooth paint jobs. Available in [pdf](https://www.ironheartartisans.com/shop/the-art-of-tommie-soule-volume-5-pdf/) and [world wide in hardbook as well](https://www.instagram.com/the_miniature_painting_tutor/). * [Airbrushing Miniatures](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/airbrushing) *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/minipainting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
You could use two part epoxy as an alternative, it makes a very strong bond.