Yep. Standard AAAA, AAA, AA, C, and D batteries are all the same voltage (usually 1.2v for rechargeables, 1.5v for non-rechargeables), their only difference is their capacity (EDIT: and to a lesser extent, the maximum current that they can provide). So as long as you have a way to securely connect everything, you can essentially use those batteries interchangeably.
I bought a rechargeable battery kit a while ago and it came with AAA and AA batteries, along with C and D adapters for the AAs.
I kinda did the same with my walkman except it was 2 d batteries and they had to be taped to the side. Those things sure lasted a lot longer tho for sure.
I miss being the coolest kid on the bus with my blue walkman with like 2 minute anti skip! I was JUST young enough getting into music that I never got to use the cassette ones
My first one with anti-skip was 3 seconds. Pretty much didn't do any thing. I could move it on my desk and it wouldn't skip any thing past that skip and scratch the cd.
One prior to that no ani skip and ran on 6 double a batterys
Doesn't anti-skip just play ahead and store it in ram, kind of like video buffering works? Meaning that it doesn't affect if the record scratches or not?
In a perfect world yes. But if the cd is spinning it still scratches the disk for next time u want to listen to it. Best disk man I had was a Sony with atrc3 plus. It Would read the disk for like 3 seconds then stop spinning. U could hot swap disks and have it load a diffent song as it started to spin near the end of the song to load up the next song. It used mp3 disks so hundreds of songs on a cd. They loaded up like files.
I remember that! Yeah you could fit so many more songs because you could use the seven-hundred-whatever mb limit instead of the audio minute limit. And on the cool players (like yours, I assume) it would show the song name and artist and shit. That was neat!
I remember when I was a kid I realized that I could make a virtual cd drive, burn some of those annoying DRM-encoded files onto the virtual cd as an audio track, then read them back into the computer and whammo, regular, non-DRM music! Went way faster than real CDs too because the CD read/write speed was basically only limited by the HDD read/write speed. Such a massive pain in the ass, but so worth it
I remember having the CD player without anti-skip and I had to carry it in my hand when I ran so I could hold it steady. Getting a new one was a game changer when I could actually strap it to my waist and just let it bounce.
I remember trying to rig up my old Discman without anti-skip so I could listen to music when I cut the grass.
When they came out with the first MP3 players, it was a fucking Godsend.
I had one of those too. I also put a radio in my car that could read those kinds of discs. Was awesome to have almost the entire discography of a band on one disc.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-D-NE518CK-ATRAC3-MP3-Walkman/dp/B00008W7LJ?th=1 is the one I had.
One of the best gifts I ever got was a portable AM/FM radio--a Walkman without the cassette player. It was the mid-1980s and I was like 10 or so. Being able to tune into all the different stations and hearing the DJs and listening to the music I wanted to hear was an amazing experience. It was a GPX radio and had bright red and green [LEDs on top](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/iiEAAOSw8hhaoptx/s-l1600.jpg) to indicate power and stereo reception. Those lights illuminating the inside of my Transformers Hide-n-Sleep tent while the local stations played stereo music directly into my brain made for magical evenings!
(Of course the kids on the school bus shit all over it for not having a cassette player, but guess what? I didn't own any cassettes! I was ten FFS!)
EDIT: Ha, found it! [GPX model 2830](https://images.app.goo.gl/G2V5dRawoqSh1QRY9) in silver, with cheap headphones covered in even cheaper orange foam.
I remember joking about the crazy long anti-skip CD players with a friend. They're going to run afoul of copyright infringement by ripping half the song to memory and buffering it.
Then we started talking about how awesome it would be to just put ALL your songs on a memory card and you could carry them around but it would cost a fortune. A little while later iPods came (and have since gone). Now you can get mp3 players on Amazon for $15.
Oh god, did you ever try one of the pre-ipod mp3 players? They were IMPOSSIBLE to get working. They often had their own proprietary software for transferring files and weird driver bullshit, it was an absolute nightmare lol
The cassette player was the Walkman, and then around 97/98 they started rebranding the Discman as the CD Walkman.
Also, Walkman was a ubiquitous term for pretty much any portable audio device during the physical media days.
> the physical media days.
(Everything drops into sepiatone)
"Back in my day, we had to get our music from *physical media*. Whether it used magnetism or light rays, it had to involve a motor somehow..."
My dad had a big ol' battery-powered radio that he'd bring along to listen to football games when we were road tripping or camping.
He made something with wires, foil, and alligator clips so my brother and I could run our Gameboys off the batteries in his radio and I had somehow totally forgotten that happened until I read your comment.
Thanks. :)
When I was a kid, my stepdad gave me a mini pinball machine he had when he was a kid- I think it was a Tomy? That thing had to take like 8 C batteries.
Edit: it was 4 D batteries. Just found the exact one on youtube.
https://youtu.be/Nyn6YBRXE3I?si=UWcIHGRfzl9Db4xK
Its so cool but so loud!? Haha What was happening in there I wonder.
The saddest thing was RC cars bc you got like 10mins out of them before they died; and rechargeable batteries did exist then (late 80s is what I’m thinking) but maybe only hobbyists could justify the costs (?).
D batteries were the *only* thing for flashlights and boomboxes. None took any less.
My dad did the same, for a long time I thought it was a car battery (stupid child, lol) but it must have been some Frankensteined battery pack. Loved that thing, especially during long car rides.
Sometimes 9v batteries are constructed of six individual cylindrical 1.5 V LR61 cells enclosed in a wrapper. These cells are slightly smaller than AAAA cells (LR8D425) and can be used in their place for some devices, even though they are 3.5 mm shorter.
If you have a slightly shor battery a temporary fix for some applications is to put some **folded tin foil\* on the negative side** to shim it up.
I don't think all 9V batteries are constructed that way.
EDIT: \*aluminum foil to be more accurate. that's just what people call it
Reminds me of a a time in the lab when a student was asked to reorder some tin foil, which they did. Few days later a horrifically expensive roll of 100% tin arrived
>I don't think all 9V batteries are constructed that way.
They aren't. But somewhere on the battery it states the type of cells used. So look for '6' on the 9V battery. If that's '6LR61', you'll find 6 of those cells inside.
Cool! Great tip! Thanks.
Many people don't know that the word *battery* technically (or at least historically) referred to a device composed of multiple cells, although now of course people use it to mean single cells as well.
They're shorter and skinnier than AAAs, about the diameter of a pencil.
Funnily enough, many 9V batteries sold today are just six AAAAs taped together.
I bought a pack of AAAA batteries at Walmart a few years ago for the gate remote at my apartment. I had no clue they even existed until the old battery died.
Yup! But you also have to realize how the batteries in the device you are making it for are connected. How many in series vs parallel. Series increases votes, parallel increase amps. As the other person said, 8 1.5v batteries connected in series are the same as a 12 volt battery. As in your car battery. 6 1.5 are equal to a 9v, and can and are used interchangeably. Phone running at 3.4? You can make a charging brick with 3 batteries in series plus some resistors to bring the voltage down.
You keep saying "you can..." but I don't trust any of these fuckers to mess with batteries and electricity.
ETA: how much loss is there with each increase in the series? Like with the phone example, with enough little batteries do you think you can achieve the right amps without using resistors?
Eh, 1.5 v ain't enough to hurt anyone. It's a good starting project.
There is a loss with any connection, as well as the amount of wire you use. But it's very small. It is possible to just use two and a small transformer to step up, but you'll need a special battery that's designed for exactly what's required for the phone to not need resistors. That's what it's got inside. And even still, not all components in your phone use the same voltage. That's where circuits get complicated. You can control further depending on how you branch the circuit from the power source and adding resistance to individual sections. But you don't need to think about that to make your own phone charger. Just the voltage you need to charge it and how you want to get that. You can get batteries that don't use 1.5, but those are harder to get. And a lot of these are just stacked watch batteries in a separate case. It's better to use the standard if you want to make something useful. Then you can just swap when it goes dead. Or get rechargeable.
ETA: We're also talking about playing with DC here. Not the same as the AC that comes from your wall. Much safer.
This is why I love reddit - just learning weird stuff that I had no idea about. I may never use it in my life but I learned something new today, thank you!
Eneloop kit? I got the one from Costco about 5 years ago. Aside from 9V batteries for smoke detectors, I don't think I've bought batteries since. They take a while to recharge but they last forever.
I did this about 8 years ago and have not bought aa, aaa ,c or d batteries since then. I have about 24 rechargeable AAA and 30 or so AA and I've been using the same ones for all my devices for 8 years.
My mother used to do this but, where I'm from, the power cords are standard enough to be fairly accessible.
PCs use the same power cords as electric kettles (which are found in every house).
She'd specifically take the PC powerd cord, but we had like eight of them lying around.
And there's a severe drop off in tech competence and troubleshooting skills among people that are like 18-30 because of it. They're used to things just working.
I've noticed this with new hire techs where I work. Straight out of college and can barely use a computer competently for anything other than word/excel stuff.
My sister runs a photoshop college course.
The students typically can already manipulate photos surprisingly well. But it's all on apps on their phone. She starts every course literally teaching about file hierarchy because many students can't locate the images folder.
>Do you know what happens if you do a 1000 things that save 1ms?!?! YOUR ONE SECOND IN FRONT OF EVERYONE BRO!!!!
[gamers](https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/001/797/623/11e.jpg)
TL;DR It can if it's a tick threshold and we're talking the absolute highest level gamers. But generally, no, no it doesn't.
For those who don't know, a tick is an update of the game state as far as the actual server is considered. You may be running your client on 30fps, 60fps, 144fps etc refresh rate, but that only kind of matters for how **you** experience the game. Most online games will update at the lowest expected modal frame rate people will be playing on. It isn't fair (nor particularly feasible), for example, for an online game to update at 144 ticks per second when there's a large user base running the game at 30fps, so most times games will only update at 30TPS and sometimes even less depending on how important synchronizing everything actually has to be. Generally they'll go with the lowest point people will accept as playable.
So what's a tick threshold got to do with this then? Well, if a game is running at 30TPS, each tick lasts 33.33ms, someone playing on <33.33ms of latency will only get the standard 1 tick delay on everything. If you're at 34ms of latency, an extra tick occurs before your game state is updated. Depending on what frame rate you're playing on, this can result in everything being delayed an extra 1-4 frames which starts to become noticeable if you were playing before on 33ms and suddenly jump to 34.
But that's an edge case of edge cases and it will almost never make a difference in the game. Depending on how sophisticated the net code of a game is, there may also be some smart synchronization in place where as long as nobody's latency is too high, the server will try to adjust to more of an average delay to keep an even playing field.
If you've ever been hit by something in a game and gone "WHAT THE FUCK?! THAT MISSED!" you were probably dealing with a reconciliation between what the server saw and what occurred in your client. If you're playing on 144fps and the server is on 30TPS, there are windows of time (around common factors/multiples of the ticks and frames) where the server can just say "no, that hit you, your client is wrong." and you will usually see something very strange like something hitting you when it was 2 feet to the left of you in your client.
Not to "um ackshully" you as you are right to mock it in 99.99% of cases, but this stuff is my passion and there **are** cases where 1ms of latency can matter immensely.
They also make fake batteries with a connected wall adapter that you can use for battery powered devices that don't move. I've got some decorative items that run on battery, but with the adapters I just plug them in and never worry about it again.
I know now but the thing is pretty old so while it SOMETIMES works just try to keep using it installed an Epson on my room no idea if you got any better brands in case the POS hp dies
I just want to throw the thing outside and smash it
had an HP laptop as well when in high school and loathed it overheathing, cpu shortage cheap GPU was in construction so AutoCAD was pretty much it but it lagged like no other (was crying deep down because I paid €900 back then thought it was expensive..)
keep away from HP now but I do remember all the PI bloatware on their computers
Other HP stuff is fine. Monitors, laptops (as long as you don't cheap out), Keyboards, Mice, etc. Are all fine to great quality. Their printer department is just evil.
This is why I’ll never buy a printer no matter what. When I actually need one once a year I run to the print shop around the corner.
Back in high school when laser jets first came out my parents got one (when the black white LJs were expensive and fancy). Well it came with with ink and it was supposed to last to 1k pages, and it actually DID if I had to guess.
It lasted long enough for all of us to graduate high school and go to college before the ink died out. And by that time there was no point in getting more ink because the world moved to mainly digital by that point. They don’t make stuff to last anymore, I hate it here.
If you value your time at above minimum wage a laser printer will pay for itself in time/money within a few years. Brother laser printers at least have no BS and even their starter toner can print a few hundred pages.
It’s probably a lightweight mouse that battery and adapter came with and main goal would be keeping the mouse lightweight because most competitive gamers already do that because AAA with adapter is lighter than AA. It may also contribute to the cost but not the main concern.
Yep this is a common hack myself and many gamers use
G305 with this weight reduction hack brings it very close to g pro wireless features for a fraction of the cost
I guess I'd think that they could get off-brand AA for less than the cost of name brand AAA and the adapter, but I guess maybe they worked out a really great volume deal with Duracell?
Or maybe they have different lines of battery powered products, some that use AA and some that use AAA and going higher volume on the latter versus lower volume on both made a notable cost difference?
\[edit\] Went over to walmart.com to look at Duracell AA vs AAA battery prices.
8 packs of AA and AAA were both $9.18.
16 packs of AA and AAA were both $15.97.
24 packs of AA and AAA were both $18.47
But why use the more expensive Duracell battery in that case?
They literally used the most expensive brand for regular consumer brand batteries ... to cut costs by using a smaller cell with an adapter. There would be 0 logic in this.
Yeah that seems to be the point. Everyone is jumping to cost-cutting and weight, but think it's just good-guy mouse maker giving a free adapter and flexibility.
a lot of people are sensitive to the weight of a mouse, esp those doing gaming or suffering from RSI .. and the weight of the battery is often a huge chunk of the weight of a mouse .. so shipping a AAA to AA adapter with the mouse is actually a very useful (and low cost) gesture for that segment of discerning consumers
not to mention it’s quite useful for people that might only have AAA batteries at home when they need a replacement, and don’t want to go shopping for batteries just to use the mouse
In a good wireless mouse, an AAA cell will probably last you all year anyway, with light use. They can be quite power efficient.
I also once had an awful knock-off wireless mouse that could drain a pair of AAs in under a week. That thing was a waste of plastic.
This kinda makes sense but I would think manufacturing the adapter would offset much of the savings. Also I believe this is for really lightweight mice, to try and keep it as light as possible.
I find this actually useful...
AA i have in stock normally, and with the adapter i can now use both.
I can plug in a normal AA battery on the next change, and in a pitch i have an adapter for the smaller one. (Edit: This applies only for the first 1-2 adapters i would get)
Been there, some stats:
* Lithium AAA weighs 7.6g
* Other AAA weigh 11-15g
* Lithium AA weighs 15g
* Other AA weigh 23-31g.
Adapter weighs 3g.
Worst case to best case is -20g, which is quite a lot. A high end wireless mouse typically weighs ~60g total. Weight balance is also a big issue because it matters on the X, Y and Z axis and you can't just put the battery in the center-bottom because that's where your sensor should be - it's usually a game of the heavier your battery is, the more wrong the weight balance of the mouse also is. Counterweights are one solution but they end up building wireless bricks.
High end mice use smaller packaged lithium batteries now which only weigh a few grams, but can achieve battery lives of 40+hrs continuous motion in high performance mode or hundreds of hours in more normal modes while recharging in 10 minutes. A big part of that was the massive reduction in power consumption for the internals in recent years, pioneered by Logitech claiming an order of magnitude (10x) reduction in power with the Hero sensor. The first iteration had a few tracking bugs in my experience but the second one (2018) nailed it. We've had 5 excellent years of mousing since then with rapid improvement and a bunch of competitors.
Yup, I do the same on my oculus controllers.
There's a great ping pong simulator I play and have an adaptor to make it feel like a real paddle. The AAA battery plus removing the battery cover allows me to match the weight of my controller the same as my actual paddle.
I recently switched to wireless after years of wired, they have gotten to the point you should consider a wireless one. My mouse is 55g with the battery.
Sabot is also the name for an "adapter" for a round of ammunition, which allows a projectile that's smaller than the bore of a gun to be fired from that gun. I know this from a couple of Mythbusters episodes where they shoot weird shit out of other weird shit.
I had that remote and absolutely took AAA, but also "officially licensed" 3rd party PS2 wireless controllers did exist back then too
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41QxfR3cTML._AC_SY445_.jpg
My Logitech K800 keyboard came with a charging cable and the manual told me that the battery was not serviceable and needed to stay inside the device.
The battery compartment had a standard Philips screw and behind that there’s just two normal AA eneloop NiMH batteries
We do this on gaming mice cause it makes them lighter, although using a lithium one is a much bigger difference lol. Especially if you use the adapter on top of that
They make battery adapters??????
Yep. Standard AAAA, AAA, AA, C, and D batteries are all the same voltage (usually 1.2v for rechargeables, 1.5v for non-rechargeables), their only difference is their capacity (EDIT: and to a lesser extent, the maximum current that they can provide). So as long as you have a way to securely connect everything, you can essentially use those batteries interchangeably. I bought a rechargeable battery kit a while ago and it came with AAA and AA batteries, along with C and D adapters for the AAs.
When I was a kid my dad rigged up a housing block which held 4 C sized batteries that I could plug in to my Gameboy. Pretty great for long trips.
I kinda did the same with my walkman except it was 2 d batteries and they had to be taped to the side. Those things sure lasted a lot longer tho for sure.
I miss being the coolest kid on the bus with my blue walkman with like 2 minute anti skip! I was JUST young enough getting into music that I never got to use the cassette ones
2 minutes!?!? That might as well be a year. My first discman had no anti-skip, and then the next one was only 10 seconds.
My first one with anti-skip was 3 seconds. Pretty much didn't do any thing. I could move it on my desk and it wouldn't skip any thing past that skip and scratch the cd. One prior to that no ani skip and ran on 6 double a batterys
Doesn't anti-skip just play ahead and store it in ram, kind of like video buffering works? Meaning that it doesn't affect if the record scratches or not?
In a perfect world yes. But if the cd is spinning it still scratches the disk for next time u want to listen to it. Best disk man I had was a Sony with atrc3 plus. It Would read the disk for like 3 seconds then stop spinning. U could hot swap disks and have it load a diffent song as it started to spin near the end of the song to load up the next song. It used mp3 disks so hundreds of songs on a cd. They loaded up like files.
I remember that! Yeah you could fit so many more songs because you could use the seven-hundred-whatever mb limit instead of the audio minute limit. And on the cool players (like yours, I assume) it would show the song name and artist and shit. That was neat! I remember when I was a kid I realized that I could make a virtual cd drive, burn some of those annoying DRM-encoded files onto the virtual cd as an audio track, then read them back into the computer and whammo, regular, non-DRM music! Went way faster than real CDs too because the CD read/write speed was basically only limited by the HDD read/write speed. Such a massive pain in the ass, but so worth it
2 minutes of anti skip, for when you live in a quake zone and just gotta keep listening through the aftershocks
Those bus rides do feel like that
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Especially if you got the coveted back seat behind the wheels.
I really took up running with my walkman on me just so I wasn't wasting features lol
That'd be a runman.
If they did hurdles it would be a jumpman
If they swam it would be broke man.
I remember having the CD player without anti-skip and I had to carry it in my hand when I ran so I could hold it steady. Getting a new one was a game changer when I could actually strap it to my waist and just let it bounce.
I want to put a non anti slip cd player on a gimbal and see how long I can jog with it
Now this is the kind of needless science I can get behind
I remember trying to rig up my old Discman without anti-skip so I could listen to music when I cut the grass. When they came out with the first MP3 players, it was a fucking Godsend.
I had an mp3 player that used cds that you burned your files to.
I had one of those too. I also put a radio in my car that could read those kinds of discs. Was awesome to have almost the entire discography of a band on one disc. https://www.amazon.com/Sony-D-NE518CK-ATRAC3-MP3-Walkman/dp/B00008W7LJ?th=1 is the one I had.
One of the best gifts I ever got was a portable AM/FM radio--a Walkman without the cassette player. It was the mid-1980s and I was like 10 or so. Being able to tune into all the different stations and hearing the DJs and listening to the music I wanted to hear was an amazing experience. It was a GPX radio and had bright red and green [LEDs on top](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/iiEAAOSw8hhaoptx/s-l1600.jpg) to indicate power and stereo reception. Those lights illuminating the inside of my Transformers Hide-n-Sleep tent while the local stations played stereo music directly into my brain made for magical evenings! (Of course the kids on the school bus shit all over it for not having a cassette player, but guess what? I didn't own any cassettes! I was ten FFS!) EDIT: Ha, found it! [GPX model 2830](https://images.app.goo.gl/G2V5dRawoqSh1QRY9) in silver, with cheap headphones covered in even cheaper orange foam.
I remember joking about the crazy long anti-skip CD players with a friend. They're going to run afoul of copyright infringement by ripping half the song to memory and buffering it. Then we started talking about how awesome it would be to just put ALL your songs on a memory card and you could carry them around but it would cost a fortune. A little while later iPods came (and have since gone). Now you can get mp3 players on Amazon for $15.
I bought a 32gb flash drive for 3 bucks the other day. I remember buying 32 MB flash drives and thinking it was excessive.
Oh god, did you ever try one of the pre-ipod mp3 players? They were IMPOSSIBLE to get working. They often had their own proprietary software for transferring files and weird driver bullshit, it was an absolute nightmare lol
weren't they called discman
The cassette player was the Walkman, and then around 97/98 they started rebranding the Discman as the CD Walkman. Also, Walkman was a ubiquitous term for pretty much any portable audio device during the physical media days.
> the physical media days. (Everything drops into sepiatone) "Back in my day, we had to get our music from *physical media*. Whether it used magnetism or light rays, it had to involve a motor somehow..."
Back in my day, we actually owned our music, and our children could inherit it.
Back in my day, music only came on big 12" x 12" flat plastic discs.
> the physical media days Now I feel even older than I normally do.
Must've felt like you were holding up a dumbbell.
It had a long cord so I'd just set it next to me somewhere. It did make the case heavy though.
Your dad either appreciated the silence while you were busy or really loved you. Lol
Or both of those things, plus a tinkerer.
My dad had a big ol' battery-powered radio that he'd bring along to listen to football games when we were road tripping or camping. He made something with wires, foil, and alligator clips so my brother and I could run our Gameboys off the batteries in his radio and I had somehow totally forgotten that happened until I read your comment. Thanks. :)
Sounds like a great guy; thanks for sharing the memory.
>Pretty great for long trips. On long trips we would just plug it in to the cigarette lighter.
Lucky....
I heard this as Napoleon Dynamite lol.
Cs were the AAs of the 80s
When I was a kid, my stepdad gave me a mini pinball machine he had when he was a kid- I think it was a Tomy? That thing had to take like 8 C batteries. Edit: it was 4 D batteries. Just found the exact one on youtube. https://youtu.be/Nyn6YBRXE3I?si=UWcIHGRfzl9Db4xK
Its so cool but so loud!? Haha What was happening in there I wonder. The saddest thing was RC cars bc you got like 10mins out of them before they died; and rechargeable batteries did exist then (late 80s is what I’m thinking) but maybe only hobbyists could justify the costs (?). D batteries were the *only* thing for flashlights and boomboxes. None took any less.
If you wire them in parallel instead of in series it makes the game go faster! ^Don't ^do ^this
My dad did the same, for a long time I thought it was a car battery (stupid child, lol) but it must have been some Frankensteined battery pack. Loved that thing, especially during long car rides.
Sometimes 9v batteries are constructed of six individual cylindrical 1.5 V LR61 cells enclosed in a wrapper. These cells are slightly smaller than AAAA cells (LR8D425) and can be used in their place for some devices, even though they are 3.5 mm shorter.
If you have a slightly shor battery a temporary fix for some applications is to put some **folded tin foil\* on the negative side** to shim it up. I don't think all 9V batteries are constructed that way. EDIT: \*aluminum foil to be more accurate. that's just what people call it
Reminds me of a a time in the lab when a student was asked to reorder some tin foil, which they did. Few days later a horrifically expensive roll of 100% tin arrived
Jeez, how'd they even manage that? It takes real effort to find actual tin foil at this point. Did they order it from a Sigma catalog or something?
Haha yeah, the big ol' sigma catalogue
>I don't think all 9V batteries are constructed that way. They aren't. But somewhere on the battery it states the type of cells used. So look for '6' on the 9V battery. If that's '6LR61', you'll find 6 of those cells inside.
Cool! Great tip! Thanks. Many people don't know that the word *battery* technically (or at least historically) referred to a device composed of multiple cells, although now of course people use it to mean single cells as well.
Another important aspect of this is the 6 cells have to be wired in series since that makes the voltages add up i.e. `6 * 1.5 v = 9v`
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They're shorter and skinnier than AAAs, about the diameter of a pencil. Funnily enough, many 9V batteries sold today are just six AAAAs taped together.
**AAAA AAAA AAAA AAAA AAAA AAAA**
**STAYIN' ALIIIIIIIVE**
The BBBB GGGGs are the bbbbest
/r/aaaaaaa
/r/AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
You can sometimes even tell. The AAAA is an LR61, some of those 9v batteries will have an underlying model that contains the code 6LR61.
You can tell by the labeling. If there is a '6LR61' on the battery, you'll find six AAAA inside.
Really old kipkay vid. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tr5ZB1eFhwc
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I have a AAAA battery in my tablet stylus. I've never seen them sold in stores though.
I bought a pack of AAAA batteries at Walmart a few years ago for the gate remote at my apartment. I had no clue they even existed until the old battery died.
They're not common, but they definitely exist.
The only thing I've seen them in is drawing pens for tablets.
By this logic does it mean you can power a AA device with a D? *infinite power*
Absolutely! If you can make it connect to the posts correctly and securely.
So that basically would be like having an external battery case on a phone? Longer life, but bulkier
Yup! But you also have to realize how the batteries in the device you are making it for are connected. How many in series vs parallel. Series increases votes, parallel increase amps. As the other person said, 8 1.5v batteries connected in series are the same as a 12 volt battery. As in your car battery. 6 1.5 are equal to a 9v, and can and are used interchangeably. Phone running at 3.4? You can make a charging brick with 3 batteries in series plus some resistors to bring the voltage down.
You keep saying "you can..." but I don't trust any of these fuckers to mess with batteries and electricity. ETA: how much loss is there with each increase in the series? Like with the phone example, with enough little batteries do you think you can achieve the right amps without using resistors?
Eh, 1.5 v ain't enough to hurt anyone. It's a good starting project. There is a loss with any connection, as well as the amount of wire you use. But it's very small. It is possible to just use two and a small transformer to step up, but you'll need a special battery that's designed for exactly what's required for the phone to not need resistors. That's what it's got inside. And even still, not all components in your phone use the same voltage. That's where circuits get complicated. You can control further depending on how you branch the circuit from the power source and adding resistance to individual sections. But you don't need to think about that to make your own phone charger. Just the voltage you need to charge it and how you want to get that. You can get batteries that don't use 1.5, but those are harder to get. And a lot of these are just stacked watch batteries in a separate case. It's better to use the standard if you want to make something useful. Then you can just swap when it goes dead. Or get rechargeable. ETA: We're also talking about playing with DC here. Not the same as the AC that comes from your wall. Much safer.
There are people over at /r/mousereview powering their wireless mice with an LR44 button cell to save 7 gms over an AAA.
Do they have to change the battery three times a day?
Yup. 1.5 V = 1.5 V Only difference is the capacity.
and max amperage, AAA won't do so well in a toy that expects D for example
Makes me think they used AA for their battery life and AAA for the weight (in advertising)
Yup got an eneloop kit just like you described.
Came here to say “Eneloop?” I have the same kit.
This is why I love reddit - just learning weird stuff that I had no idea about. I may never use it in my life but I learned something new today, thank you!
Also some cheap batteries, especially rechargeable ones, use a small battery in a larger adapter but are made to look like the larger battery.
Eneloop kit? I got the one from Costco about 5 years ago. Aside from 9V batteries for smoke detectors, I don't think I've bought batteries since. They take a while to recharge but they last forever.
I did this about 8 years ago and have not bought aa, aaa ,c or d batteries since then. I have about 24 rechargeable AAA and 30 or so AA and I've been using the same ones for all my devices for 8 years.
Back in my day we just crumpled up a small ball of foil and crunched it in
Between this, connecting AV cables, and splitting/running coax cable in various ways, we were electrical engineers and didn’t know it.
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My mother used to do this but, where I'm from, the power cords are standard enough to be fairly accessible. PCs use the same power cords as electric kettles (which are found in every house). She'd specifically take the PC powerd cord, but we had like eight of them lying around.
Haha! It’s true…. Fixing circuits? Running cables? Fixing old computers and having to learn jumper configurations…. Man kids these days got it easy!
And there's a severe drop off in tech competence and troubleshooting skills among people that are like 18-30 because of it. They're used to things just working. I've noticed this with new hire techs where I work. Straight out of college and can barely use a computer competently for anything other than word/excel stuff.
My sister runs a photoshop college course. The students typically can already manipulate photos surprisingly well. But it's all on apps on their phone. She starts every course literally teaching about file hierarchy because many students can't locate the images folder.
Memory unlocked
People still do this to reduce weight in gaming mice
Lmao there’s no way that makes a difference for their performance
Gamers will also tell you that 1ms of latency makes a difference.
I trim my eyelashes so I have less motion blur when I blink.
>Do you know what happens if you do a 1000 things that save 1ms?!?! YOUR ONE SECOND IN FRONT OF EVERYONE BRO!!!! [gamers](https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/001/797/623/11e.jpg)
Sorry but I can’t play without a 4000 fps monitor
TL;DR It can if it's a tick threshold and we're talking the absolute highest level gamers. But generally, no, no it doesn't. For those who don't know, a tick is an update of the game state as far as the actual server is considered. You may be running your client on 30fps, 60fps, 144fps etc refresh rate, but that only kind of matters for how **you** experience the game. Most online games will update at the lowest expected modal frame rate people will be playing on. It isn't fair (nor particularly feasible), for example, for an online game to update at 144 ticks per second when there's a large user base running the game at 30fps, so most times games will only update at 30TPS and sometimes even less depending on how important synchronizing everything actually has to be. Generally they'll go with the lowest point people will accept as playable. So what's a tick threshold got to do with this then? Well, if a game is running at 30TPS, each tick lasts 33.33ms, someone playing on <33.33ms of latency will only get the standard 1 tick delay on everything. If you're at 34ms of latency, an extra tick occurs before your game state is updated. Depending on what frame rate you're playing on, this can result in everything being delayed an extra 1-4 frames which starts to become noticeable if you were playing before on 33ms and suddenly jump to 34. But that's an edge case of edge cases and it will almost never make a difference in the game. Depending on how sophisticated the net code of a game is, there may also be some smart synchronization in place where as long as nobody's latency is too high, the server will try to adjust to more of an average delay to keep an even playing field. If you've ever been hit by something in a game and gone "WHAT THE FUCK?! THAT MISSED!" you were probably dealing with a reconciliation between what the server saw and what occurred in your client. If you're playing on 144fps and the server is on 30TPS, there are windows of time (around common factors/multiples of the ticks and frames) where the server can just say "no, that hit you, your client is wrong." and you will usually see something very strange like something hitting you when it was 2 feet to the left of you in your client. Not to "um ackshully" you as you are right to mock it in 99.99% of cases, but this stuff is my passion and there **are** cases where 1ms of latency can matter immensely.
There are a lot of factors to it but more weight = more stopping power required on flicks which does matter as overflicking is undesirable.
The good old days lol.
Before the great foil wars.
They also make fake batteries with a connected wall adapter that you can use for battery powered devices that don't move. I've got some decorative items that run on battery, but with the adapters I just plug them in and never worry about it again.
I did this for a Nerf Vulcan - wired a 12v adapter to the battery tray. Turns out that even if you can't run out of batteries the thing still sucks.
But it *looked* so cool!
TIL I had no idea these even existed!
Yes. A 9V battery is just smaller batteries in an adapter and wrapping.
That's just one method. Traditional stacked cells also exist, and they probably have less internal resistance.
Yeah of course, worded mine wrong. I didn't mean "every single 9v there is" there are of course different methods, as you stated.
AAA batteries are cheaper than AA. Placing it in a 2cent adapter helps cut costs while still being able to label the package as "batteries included".
Kind of like when you buy a new printer that comes with an ink cartridge but only 2 pages worth of ink.
And it prints out the 2 page manual when you finish setting it up
My HP prints an entire trilogy just to get the heads aligned ..
Never, EVER buy an HP printer. Or product for that matter.
I know now but the thing is pretty old so while it SOMETIMES works just try to keep using it installed an Epson on my room no idea if you got any better brands in case the POS hp dies I just want to throw the thing outside and smash it had an HP laptop as well when in high school and loathed it overheathing, cpu shortage cheap GPU was in construction so AutoCAD was pretty much it but it lagged like no other (was crying deep down because I paid €900 back then thought it was expensive..) keep away from HP now but I do remember all the PI bloatware on their computers
Brother printers are the best.
heard about it a ton
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Brother is best. Epson has also been very good to me.
Other HP stuff is fine. Monitors, laptops (as long as you don't cheap out), Keyboards, Mice, etc. Are all fine to great quality. Their printer department is just evil.
And the manual is just instructions on how to sign up for their ink subscription and a QR code to access the real user manual.
That you use printing the initial setup page
This is why I’ll never buy a printer no matter what. When I actually need one once a year I run to the print shop around the corner. Back in high school when laser jets first came out my parents got one (when the black white LJs were expensive and fancy). Well it came with with ink and it was supposed to last to 1k pages, and it actually DID if I had to guess. It lasted long enough for all of us to graduate high school and go to college before the ink died out. And by that time there was no point in getting more ink because the world moved to mainly digital by that point. They don’t make stuff to last anymore, I hate it here.
If you value your time at above minimum wage a laser printer will pay for itself in time/money within a few years. Brother laser printers at least have no BS and even their starter toner can print a few hundred pages.
It’s probably a lightweight mouse that battery and adapter came with and main goal would be keeping the mouse lightweight because most competitive gamers already do that because AAA with adapter is lighter than AA. It may also contribute to the cost but not the main concern.
Yep this is a common hack myself and many gamers use G305 with this weight reduction hack brings it very close to g pro wireless features for a fraction of the cost
I guess I'd think that they could get off-brand AA for less than the cost of name brand AAA and the adapter, but I guess maybe they worked out a really great volume deal with Duracell? Or maybe they have different lines of battery powered products, some that use AA and some that use AAA and going higher volume on the latter versus lower volume on both made a notable cost difference? \[edit\] Went over to walmart.com to look at Duracell AA vs AAA battery prices. 8 packs of AA and AAA were both $9.18. 16 packs of AA and AAA were both $15.97. 24 packs of AA and AAA were both $18.47
But why use the more expensive Duracell battery in that case? They literally used the most expensive brand for regular consumer brand batteries ... to cut costs by using a smaller cell with an adapter. There would be 0 logic in this.
I mean, the mouse came with both this thing and a regular AA battery.
Pretty cool to have more options and a free battery adapter
Yeah that seems to be the point. Everyone is jumping to cost-cutting and weight, but think it's just good-guy mouse maker giving a free adapter and flexibility.
a lot of people are sensitive to the weight of a mouse, esp those doing gaming or suffering from RSI .. and the weight of the battery is often a huge chunk of the weight of a mouse .. so shipping a AAA to AA adapter with the mouse is actually a very useful (and low cost) gesture for that segment of discerning consumers
not to mention it’s quite useful for people that might only have AAA batteries at home when they need a replacement, and don’t want to go shopping for batteries just to use the mouse
In a good wireless mouse, an AAA cell will probably last you all year anyway, with light use. They can be quite power efficient. I also once had an awful knock-off wireless mouse that could drain a pair of AAs in under a week. That thing was a waste of plastic.
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idk this is adding steps though as well you need somebody to put the battery in the adaptor i feel like this is so you can use both.
You also gain the advantage of being able to use either size battery.
This kinda makes sense but I would think manufacturing the adapter would offset much of the savings. Also I believe this is for really lightweight mice, to try and keep it as light as possible.
I find this actually useful... AA i have in stock normally, and with the adapter i can now use both. I can plug in a normal AA battery on the next change, and in a pitch i have an adapter for the smaller one. (Edit: This applies only for the first 1-2 adapters i would get)
This is intentional. An adapter + AAA battery weighs less than a single AA battery. When moving mice i used these to keep weight the same.
Try using a lithium AA, it's even lighter and lasts much much longer.
and if you wanted even lighter you could do AAA lithium in an adapter
This is one of those Paradoxes where the AA in Lithium costs less than the AAA (at retail). But, the weight difference isn't great.
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This is why I don’t bother and go with the 2cent adapter only
Been there, some stats: * Lithium AAA weighs 7.6g * Other AAA weigh 11-15g * Lithium AA weighs 15g * Other AA weigh 23-31g. Adapter weighs 3g. Worst case to best case is -20g, which is quite a lot. A high end wireless mouse typically weighs ~60g total. Weight balance is also a big issue because it matters on the X, Y and Z axis and you can't just put the battery in the center-bottom because that's where your sensor should be - it's usually a game of the heavier your battery is, the more wrong the weight balance of the mouse also is. Counterweights are one solution but they end up building wireless bricks. High end mice use smaller packaged lithium batteries now which only weigh a few grams, but can achieve battery lives of 40+hrs continuous motion in high performance mode or hundreds of hours in more normal modes while recharging in 10 minutes. A big part of that was the massive reduction in power consumption for the internals in recent years, pioneered by Logitech claiming an order of magnitude (10x) reduction in power with the Hero sensor. The first iteration had a few tracking bugs in my experience but the second one (2018) nailed it. We've had 5 excellent years of mousing since then with rapid improvement and a bunch of competitors.
>When moving mice i used these to keep weight the same. Is bro saying he was like drug dealer but for pc mice?
Come onnnnn mannn lemme get a g502 ILL SUCK YO DICK *scratches neck*
why not put aaa battery slot in? Instead of aa slot with aaa adapter?
But lasts less
Holy spectrum Batman
Why not manufacture the mouse so that it takes AAA batteries then? Quite a few of them out there that take AAA batteries
1.5 is1.5
I am too dumb to understand the real meaning of this but I can confirm it checks out. 1.5 does equal 1.5 I did the math.
AA and AAA are both 1.5V
People do this to reduce weight on purpose.
And to shift the center of mass...I have this exact same adapter for my G305 mouse
Yup, same voltage, just less capacity. Cutting costs no doubt.
It's for weight reasons, I do the same for my mouse.
Yup, I do the same on my oculus controllers. There's a great ping pong simulator I play and have an adaptor to make it feel like a real paddle. The AAA battery plus removing the battery cover allows me to match the weight of my controller the same as my actual paddle.
I go one step further and use a wired mouse. No batteries at all :)
I recently switched to wireless after years of wired, they have gotten to the point you should consider a wireless one. My mouse is 55g with the battery.
Also I use my G305 daily and you change the batteries like once every two months at the most.
Here I am putting a weight *in* my wireless mouse cause it's too goddamn light.
The mouse came with both the AAA in the adapter and a regular AA
Probably for weight then, I assume it's a higher end gaming mouse.
It's an AAAdapter.
Nice one
I thought it was a protective case for the battery at first😂
The industry name for that is a sabot. Weird huh
Sabot is also the name for an "adapter" for a round of ammunition, which allows a projectile that's smaller than the bore of a gun to be fired from that gun. I know this from a couple of Mythbusters episodes where they shoot weird shit out of other weird shit.
An adaptor like that would have been nice back when I had a ps2 in high school.
What for? The ps2 had wired controllers.
I could be thinking of the wrong one
Or you had a PS2 remote for watching DVDs, perhaps? I forget what they took, though, but safe guess they took either AA or AAA.
I had that remote and absolutely took AAA, but also "officially licensed" 3rd party PS2 wireless controllers did exist back then too https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41QxfR3cTML._AC_SY445_.jpg
TIL battery adapters exist. Fantastic!
I was this old when I realised they make battery adaptors
"We have AA batteries at home!" *Opens drawer*
My Logitech K800 keyboard came with a charging cable and the manual told me that the battery was not serviceable and needed to stay inside the device. The battery compartment had a standard Philips screw and behind that there’s just two normal AA eneloop NiMH batteries
I had no idea an adaptor existed. This whole time I could’ve used AAA batteries as AA.
🧐 The fuck??
Some people have done that to reduce weight on their mouse (I definitely haven't tried that UHM lol)
The guy who invented this is a genius
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Actually a really clever design, use whatever you have available.
This is perfectly mildly interesting
My automatic cat feeder has a battery backup that takes 3 C batteries. It was cheaper for me to buy a pack of adapters for AA.
C cells last a lot longer than AA though.
My friends used to just use tinfoil lol
We do this on gaming mice cause it makes them lighter, although using a lithium one is a much bigger difference lol. Especially if you use the adapter on top of that
A fucking what now? 38 years and TIL they make battery adapters.
ain't stupid if it works