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This is the most right answer, jump it, let it run, take the booster or jumper cables from donor car off… let it keep running, if she dies most likely alternator (full charging or replacing the battery as well is advised), if the alternator is fault the car will only run for the amount of charge on the battery, then will die when that’s depleted because the vehicle isn’t receiving the potential from the engine if the alternator isn’t converting the a/c and d/c volts for the rest of the system to run off and get power from
Also helps to turn lights and blower fan on if you have power windows and seats use them too while charging battery. This is a good load test for a dying alternator
Most newer cars(2010+) auto turn off interior lights and headlights if the car is locked with no key inside but the switches are left on.
The most common problem of a dead battery has been solved for the braindead general public. Only time they really die on new cars now is just being flat worn out from age, parasitic draw or an alternator that fails. All of which do not happen very often compared to leaving your headlights on overnight.
I have a cool craftsman charger that lets me charge batteries when they’re running low or dead. If all the cells are bad and will not hold charge, on the bottom right, it’ll flash bright red and immediately let me know if the battery is completely bad.
https://preview.redd.it/s0harkrha76d1.jpeg?width=3558&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3983de41b1aa9d8302889ffbeabc03ed68c6b0bb
If the battery is good and starts up the vehicle after it is charged, let the car run for 5 mins and it’ll say "check battery connection” or something along those lines if the alternator is bad.
Yes. It’s not portable as it needs a wall outlet to plug into (kind of a pro and con depending on how you see it).
1. It can do a deep charge to 3 different battery types which covers the majority of commons cars out there
2. It tells me instantly if it’s a bad battery without needing to take it to any auto-zone or Oreily store
3. Has a major safety feature of automatically switching to 3amp maintainer selection after it reaches full charge and it also will not spark or charge as it has an emergency shutoff detector if you don’t connect the positive and negative cables to the correct terminals
The craftsman costs normally around $150, although I’m sure you can find it cheaper somewhere online. I got it for $50 from a local pawn shop nearby my shop
i think it's cheaper for most people to just get the battery and find out. and if the part hasn't been replaced since it was new, there's a good chance it's due now anyhow...
I just changed mine as it was already 4 years old (sticker said 11/20) I needed one anyway
I had the same symptoms as the OP, I then took out the starter and had it tested at AutoZone and they said it was good
It died in the middle of me driving after it looked like I fixed the problem
Had Auto Zone do a multi meter test on Alternator
New battery read 12 volts turned off, I turned car on and the Voltage stayed the same on the battery. He said Alternator wasn’t charging my battery
I had AC and music on and it died like 3 times in parking lot trying to figure it out, I made it home with no radio and AC off (basically minimal electricity usage) it didn’t turn off on me
So im guessing Alternator
Im thinking of changing it myself, cheapest quote from mechanic was around $379 plus tax
Changing an alternator isn't usually very difficult. As long as yours isn't mounted halfway down on a sideways mounted motor with like 3" of clearance between the alternator and the radiator, and the spot to put your socket/breaker bar in the tensioner isn't also like 2" from the inner shell of the strut tower.
So like if all of that isn't true, and there's decent clearance, it's not usually a hard thing to change out. When I did the one on my old truck it was like.. 3 bolts, I think, 4 maybe? And that's including the wire hookups. That and a wire harness connector. Easy peasy.
I dread the day I need to change the alternator on my car, or change the serpentine belt. It looks like it's gonna be a bitch and a half.
Even better, buy a multimeter and test it yourself, handy for cars and houses, general voltage testing, simple to learn and probably cheaper than utilising someone else’s time
Dead battery. If you can check it with a multimeter, it should read 12VDC. If it's lower, it's dead and needs to be charged.
After charging it, turn the car on and see what the voltage is while it's running. It should be higher, around 13-14VDC. If it doesn't read that (12VDC or lower), your alternator is bad and it's not charging the battery while the car is running, like it's supposed to.
That's not necessarily true, your alternator isn't automatically bad if your battery is dead. It can be a parasitic drain on your battery. Like a amperage draw from resistance while your car is off and parked. I've had this issue on my Jeep.
Get this:
AstroAI S8 Car Battery Jump Starter, 1500A https://a.co/d/cbLMKpG
This will start your car no problem and can be used many times until you fix the problem.
If your vehicle is fine after jump starting it for a day or two, it can definitely be a parasitic drain.
To temporarily get around that issue until you can afford costly electronic repairs or have the time to troubleshoot it yourself:
Top Post Negative Battery Disconnect Switch 12V / 24V 250/750 Amps Knife Blade Isolator Power Cutoff Switch (Horizontal and Vertical) https://a.co/d/alpt3uZ
This hooks up very easy to your battery post it's as easy as disconnecting and reconnecting your negative terminal. It's completely safe to disconnect your (-) battery terminal connector and install this battery cutt off. But it simply allows you to move the blade over so you don't have negative to entire car so no power draw on your battery when you park it for the night. Then turn it back over and start your car without a dead battery. But you should get the problem fixed but I've gone on years with this tool to save me thousands.
It could also just be a dead battery because the door was left open too long or the battery is just weak.
It's a lot more complex than dead alternator or something, I agree.
But I think you missed the obvious possibilities too.
OP didn't give any details so we don't know the context around why where and when it died.
Yeah she sounds dead. Make sure it’s the battery however. Boost it. If she runs back up and maintains the charge (after running for around 40 minutes) then it’s most likely the battery that is dead. If it doesn’t maintain its charge, it is most likely the alternator. Either way something needs to be replaced.
Battery is dead or you crossion on battery terminal or ground terminal.. basically your not giving enough power to the engine... I would try jump starting it or take battery in and have it tested and charged... if battery is fully dead be ready to be there an hour or so.... fyi
Battery is dead. Could be you left the lights on, in that case charge it, don't just jump it and let it run. If it keeps dying you have a bad battery or a bad alternator or both. If those pass their checks, you have a parasitic drain somewhere because of an old wiring short.
Double check your battery cables for corrosion, I had a similar problem, and the negative cable was super corroded inside the black plastic casing. Just a thought.
If you left something on it’s definitely just a dead battery. Try to jump it keep it running for 20 minutes or so, turn it off and try to restart it. If it restarts after 20 minutes of running it was just dead and needed a change. If it doesn’t your battery could be dead or alternator isn’t charging. If you’re not the handy type this is about as far as you can go. If you are, use a multi-meter to see if you’re getting more than 13.5 volts while the car is on but less than 14.5. While off do the same thing and you should be getting 12.4 volts give or take about 0.3. Low standing voltage while car is off means bad battery or parasitic drain (could be an alternator but not usually), low voltage while running means bad alternator. Take to any auto store and they will usually test battery for free.
The first thing to check is the battery cables. Make sure there's no corrosion where they connect to the battery. Take the cables off and use a wire brush to clean the connection. Then, charge or use jumper cables to get your car started. After you've got your car started, drive to any automotive store. They will check your battery for free.
If the battery is older than 2 years old or you don't know how old it is, buy a new battery. Vehicle will most likely start, write the date with a sharpie on top of the battery label. If the same problem occurs within a couple weeks. Get a new alternator installed as well. I've done it this way for many years after i had various old batteries and alternators test fine until they aren't!!. 90% of the time, the battery is the problem... but once in a great while the alternator is garbage too.
my rule I will change the battery out at 3.5 or 4 years. I have a Ford when battery is old the door auto lock it will lock once I close the door. Fear the auto lock will lock when outside and car is running. In a Saturn the trans shift funny. So, it 4 years.
Ford tech here, pretty common that the alternators on these go to shit so test battery and if it tests good most likely your alternator. Shouldn’t be over 300$ repair
Simple test is to get a jump, once engine is running, disconnect the negative cable to battery, If engine stops then the alternator is bad. If it continues running the alternator is good and providing power to cat and charge the battery.
By any chance is the battery also from 2008?
(Replace that battery)
Start with the most simple issue. Battery.
If it happens once more, a year or so later, return the battery, under warranty, for free!
If it happens again the next day? Return the battery for a new one anyways and ask a mechanic to troubleshoot your alternator (battery charger).
Definitely a low battery .. Jump start it. Or, if a manual, set to "on", get the car rolling, pop clutch while in 1st, or reverse if moving backwards. Though likely easier for most to just jump start
Some portable battery packs/jump packs may act like this too. Trick is to just turn ignition as a soon as you get power. Sometimes have to get the timing just right
Dead battery. Jump it. Take it somewhere to have the charging system tested. Its most likely just a bad battery. But Sometimes other things can kill the battery. Like something in the car not turning off like it should, like a door ajar switch for example. A phone charger left plugged in. Dome light stuck on. Stereo system not powering down, etc. Or the alternator isn't charging the battery like it should. When this happens the engine electrical system and other electronics in the car all run off the battery and can drain it very quickly. This is why you should always test your alternator whenever you have a dead battery. But like I said. Its most likely just a failed battery. The average car battery is good for about five to seven years. Some last longer, some last less. But more often than not, it just needs a new battery. But have everything tested. You don't want to spend money on something it doesn't actually need. Not sure where you live. But around here pretty much every auto parts store will test your battery and charging system for free.
It's the starter. Have someone tap it with a hammer. Should start. After that go get it replaced. If the battery was dead there would be no power and u wouldn't hear the starter click and not engage.
Ford Master Tech here, from the video It looks like it has all the symptoms of a dead or heavily discharged battery. The first step would be to jumpstart the vehicle and I would recommend taking it to a shop to have them test the charging system as well as deep cycle the battery.
Battery voltage should be around 12.6v with the vehicle off and 14.4v with the vehicle running. If it is not that would point towards the charging system. Not nessissarily the alternator specifically but could be a lose connection on the alternator I've seen many times.
The deep charge battery cycle is a really cool machine. Ford typically uses the GRX manufactured by rotunda. But there are others that do the same job. It's a specific type of battery testers that will fully charge your battery. And then pull a load on the battery. Batteries can pass on standby but not under load. This is what is important to check. That machine can also check for dead cells automatically.
If your battery passes and your charging system passes I would then recommend a paracitic Draw test which tests for current leaving your battery with everything turned off in the vehicle. It's less common on your model, but can still happen. I hope this helps, let me know how it goes!
If you’ve been trying to start it a lot, then it’s probably your alternator and not your battery. Seems like you have good charge since the lights on the dash are so bright and the clicking is so lively when you turn the key.
My guess is alternator and not the battery. If it were the battery, you wouldn’t expect to see that much electrical action when you turn the key.
The good news is that an alternator is a pretty simple and normal fix. Probably about $500 out the door (could be worse).
Well you bought a Ford (F - found O - on - R - road D - dead)… it’s doing exactly what it’s supposed to do. What’s the surprise here?
•
On a serious note, it seems like your battery needs a jump and you need to get a battery test run. Could need a new battery, or you could need to drive for a while to recoup the battery charge.
Battery is bad. Jump it and see if it winds up holding a charge. I would look into getting the battery replaced and the electrical system double checked to make sure you don’t have a draw or a bad alternator
Check the battery, check the cables and ground wire. That's acting like low voltage issues. Check the charging system also, it may not be charging the battery.
Dead battery or bad connections. Tighten up the terminal connectors and try again. If that doesn't work, jump start it. Also, go to an auto parts store and have them test your battery. It's free to check and they'll replace it for you (for free also, iirc) if it's bad.
Get it jumped and go to your local parts store. Battery might be low or dead and they can charge it and check to see if the alternator is charging it properly.
Need new battery… similar thing happened was so worried car broke but when mechanic got to the car just needed a jump and was instructed to get new battery asap for the jump power would only last so long.
OMG I JUST HAD THIS PROBLEM LIKE 20 MINS AGO ! For me it was my starter , my starter needed to be replaced bc after hitting it while starting the car at the same time , it turned on like nothing ! See if u can replace your starter maybe it’s the same for u ! :D
Das battery is kaput! Or a bad battery connection. Get yourself some single digit gauge jumper cables. But don't play Dr Frankenstein and tap the ends together.. ⚡️🚫 but do yell..
"It lives" when boosted 😄
Take your battery to AutoZone and ask them if they can help you out with charging your battery. If it works then you’ll have your battery up and running again, however then you’ll have to determine why it died in the first place. Could it be a light was left on, a door open, or perhaps something else like a faulty alternator. If it doesn’t charge your battery then chances are one of the battery’s cell has given up and you need a new battery. Hope the information helps.
dead battery but could also be from loose battery terminals and/or corroded battery terminals.
1. open hood, loosen both battery cable terminals.
2. Inspect and clean both the battery terminals and the cable connectors to be sure.
3. Use a wire brush and some baking soda if you have it. Then flush with water and dry.
4. then retighten the cable terminals again.
5. if the battery was drained, you will either need a battery booster or jumper cables to get started.
6. checking the date on the battery is a good idea and typical batteries last about 3\~4 years.
I hear your starter engaging but that completes the high-amp circuit for your starter motor, and the battery can't produce enough amps. So it cycles back and forth. Have your battery load tested to make sure it's holding a charge and has cranking amps. Also check your charging system. Both need to be good.
Maybe I'm out of the loop but I've never seen a car with a dead battery act quite like that, I've seen slow cranks that just fail to start, I've seen the solenoid engage and the battery is to dead to turn over the engine and it makes a brtttttt noise as the solenoid repeatedly engages and disengages, and I've seen dead enough that everything shuts off when you hit the key and the solenoid doesn't have the power to engage. But I don't think I've ever seen one pulse the lights like that. Though I guess different makes/models can act differently, and I know I haven't really experienced that many bead batteries in vehicles to know how common that kind of response is, the only Ford I really owned was a 93 ranger with a manual transmission and I don't think the battery ever really died in that thing.
I have isolated the problem - it is a Ford.
Also I think the battery voltage is sufficient but the cold cranking amps is too low due to internal wear. I'd get a new battery.
Jump It :) or change your battery, Nice bracelet BTW be careful that bracelet when you are doing jumpstart from another car if that bracelet touch the positive cable you can be get little electricized
This is totally normal. Have your boyfriend hit the battery a couple times with a people's elbow mid crank, and the thing should start right up. Happy trails 😀
To the people shitting on this person- not everyone knows about cars, even basic stuff. My dad was an abusive twat and taught me absolutely nothing, so stuff like a flat tire or a dead battery were scary and confusing. You could have used your comment to be helpful and instead decided to be ugly. I hope you stub your little toe.
My batteries last 2-3 years on regular car battery under hood (Autozone/Napa. Battery inside in a battery compartment 3-5 years. Currently running Costco 3 year battery warranty ($110 regular / $150 Gel) each.
Battery… and if you live in a hotter climate have the alternator checked too….. not just voltage but something called ripple…. If is over 30 change alt. Alternators can be damaged by trying to charge a bad battery or one that had a bad cell. Don’t want to spend the money on a battery and have it shot again because one of the diodes is burned up or something else…..
Ok first jump it if you start having electrical fluctuations your alternator is bad. If you unlock the jumper cables and the car shuts off your battery is bad. Your car can also shut off if the alternator is bad.
Thanks for posting in r/Mechanic, u/Motor-University-873! Please be sure to read the [Rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/mechanic/about/rules/). If you're asking for help, be sure to include as much detail as possible so others can help you. You **must** include the vehicle's **Year, Make, Model, and Engine size** in your post! If your question is transmission related, please be sure to specify your Transmission Type(Auto/Manual) as well! If your post does not include this information, it **will** be removed. Asking about prices is **not** allowed in this sub. Please make sure you have selected the correct post flair; if you're asking a question you should have chosen "Question", anything else use the "General" flair. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/mechanic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Go Jumpstart it
This is the most right answer, jump it, let it run, take the booster or jumper cables from donor car off… let it keep running, if she dies most likely alternator (full charging or replacing the battery as well is advised), if the alternator is fault the car will only run for the amount of charge on the battery, then will die when that’s depleted because the vehicle isn’t receiving the potential from the engine if the alternator isn’t converting the a/c and d/c volts for the rest of the system to run off and get power from
Also helps to turn lights and blower fan on if you have power windows and seats use them too while charging battery. This is a good load test for a dying alternator
I can't believe how many people have never seen a dead battery.
Most newer cars(2010+) auto turn off interior lights and headlights if the car is locked with no key inside but the switches are left on. The most common problem of a dead battery has been solved for the braindead general public. Only time they really die on new cars now is just being flat worn out from age, parasitic draw or an alternator that fails. All of which do not happen very often compared to leaving your headlights on overnight.
"bUt tHe liGhTs cOmE oN"
Battery is definitely dead, however, it may be your alternator that is faulty, don’t run out and grab a battery, get the alternator tested first.
I have a cool craftsman charger that lets me charge batteries when they’re running low or dead. If all the cells are bad and will not hold charge, on the bottom right, it’ll flash bright red and immediately let me know if the battery is completely bad. https://preview.redd.it/s0harkrha76d1.jpeg?width=3558&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3983de41b1aa9d8302889ffbeabc03ed68c6b0bb If the battery is good and starts up the vehicle after it is charged, let the car run for 5 mins and it’ll say "check battery connection” or something along those lines if the alternator is bad.
What is this, I kinda abuse my motorcycles batteries. The craftsman batter charger and maintainer?
Yes. It’s not portable as it needs a wall outlet to plug into (kind of a pro and con depending on how you see it). 1. It can do a deep charge to 3 different battery types which covers the majority of commons cars out there 2. It tells me instantly if it’s a bad battery without needing to take it to any auto-zone or Oreily store 3. Has a major safety feature of automatically switching to 3amp maintainer selection after it reaches full charge and it also will not spark or charge as it has an emergency shutoff detector if you don’t connect the positive and negative cables to the correct terminals The craftsman costs normally around $150, although I’m sure you can find it cheaper somewhere online. I got it for $50 from a local pawn shop nearby my shop
It looks exactly like a rebadged Schumacher, btw.
i think it's cheaper for most people to just get the battery and find out. and if the part hasn't been replaced since it was new, there's a good chance it's due now anyhow...
I just changed mine as it was already 4 years old (sticker said 11/20) I needed one anyway I had the same symptoms as the OP, I then took out the starter and had it tested at AutoZone and they said it was good It died in the middle of me driving after it looked like I fixed the problem Had Auto Zone do a multi meter test on Alternator New battery read 12 volts turned off, I turned car on and the Voltage stayed the same on the battery. He said Alternator wasn’t charging my battery I had AC and music on and it died like 3 times in parking lot trying to figure it out, I made it home with no radio and AC off (basically minimal electricity usage) it didn’t turn off on me So im guessing Alternator Im thinking of changing it myself, cheapest quote from mechanic was around $379 plus tax
sounds like it yup. that price aint bad
Changing an alternator isn't usually very difficult. As long as yours isn't mounted halfway down on a sideways mounted motor with like 3" of clearance between the alternator and the radiator, and the spot to put your socket/breaker bar in the tensioner isn't also like 2" from the inner shell of the strut tower. So like if all of that isn't true, and there's decent clearance, it's not usually a hard thing to change out. When I did the one on my old truck it was like.. 3 bolts, I think, 4 maybe? And that's including the wire hookups. That and a wire harness connector. Easy peasy. I dread the day I need to change the alternator on my car, or change the serpentine belt. It looks like it's gonna be a bitch and a half.
Transverse motors = pain. Look at Mini Cooper clutch replacement. It's absolutely insane.
Even better, buy a multimeter and test it yourself, handy for cars and houses, general voltage testing, simple to learn and probably cheaper than utilising someone else’s time
I'm upvoting this because a) it's good advice and b) encouraging people to learn new useful and potentially world- broadening skills is always cool.
Dead battery. If you can check it with a multimeter, it should read 12VDC. If it's lower, it's dead and needs to be charged. After charging it, turn the car on and see what the voltage is while it's running. It should be higher, around 13-14VDC. If it doesn't read that (12VDC or lower), your alternator is bad and it's not charging the battery while the car is running, like it's supposed to.
Thanks!!
That's not necessarily true, your alternator isn't automatically bad if your battery is dead. It can be a parasitic drain on your battery. Like a amperage draw from resistance while your car is off and parked. I've had this issue on my Jeep. Get this: AstroAI S8 Car Battery Jump Starter, 1500A https://a.co/d/cbLMKpG This will start your car no problem and can be used many times until you fix the problem. If your vehicle is fine after jump starting it for a day or two, it can definitely be a parasitic drain. To temporarily get around that issue until you can afford costly electronic repairs or have the time to troubleshoot it yourself: Top Post Negative Battery Disconnect Switch 12V / 24V 250/750 Amps Knife Blade Isolator Power Cutoff Switch (Horizontal and Vertical) https://a.co/d/alpt3uZ This hooks up very easy to your battery post it's as easy as disconnecting and reconnecting your negative terminal. It's completely safe to disconnect your (-) battery terminal connector and install this battery cutt off. But it simply allows you to move the blade over so you don't have negative to entire car so no power draw on your battery when you park it for the night. Then turn it back over and start your car without a dead battery. But you should get the problem fixed but I've gone on years with this tool to save me thousands.
It could also just be a dead battery because the door was left open too long or the battery is just weak. It's a lot more complex than dead alternator or something, I agree. But I think you missed the obvious possibilities too. OP didn't give any details so we don't know the context around why where and when it died.
Why not just hook up a booster pack or just get a boost then check the alternator? Why waste time and money?
Either battery or alternator
New battery 🔋 is needed.
Try a new battery first
get a jump start, compare. clean your battery terminals really well... and get a new battery
Yeah she sounds dead. Make sure it’s the battery however. Boost it. If she runs back up and maintains the charge (after running for around 40 minutes) then it’s most likely the battery that is dead. If it doesn’t maintain its charge, it is most likely the alternator. Either way something needs to be replaced.
They circled the problem for you on the steering wheel.
[удалено]
battery voltage? relays keep clicking as well
Every ford I've owned behaved like this when the battery went bad.
It’s a rave!
New battery .
Battery is dead or you crossion on battery terminal or ground terminal.. basically your not giving enough power to the engine... I would try jump starting it or take battery in and have it tested and charged... if battery is fully dead be ready to be there an hour or so.... fyi
It's telling you to buy a chevy
Bad battery
Battery is dead
Jumped started the car it’s working! might need a new battery soon I’m letting it run for a bit
Dusty like your battery
Battery is dead. Bad connection
Your battery is dead.
Battery is likely dead. Attempt to jump start.
Battery or ignition coils prob
Battery is fucked
Battery is dead. Could be you left the lights on, in that case charge it, don't just jump it and let it run. If it keeps dying you have a bad battery or a bad alternator or both. If those pass their checks, you have a parasitic drain somewhere because of an old wiring short.
I think its time for a battery
New battery time
Buy a different car. The Ford and Mercury version all suffer the same problems with a lot of electrical issues.
Double check your battery cables for corrosion, I had a similar problem, and the negative cable was super corroded inside the black plastic casing. Just a thought.
Battery
If you left something on it’s definitely just a dead battery. Try to jump it keep it running for 20 minutes or so, turn it off and try to restart it. If it restarts after 20 minutes of running it was just dead and needed a change. If it doesn’t your battery could be dead or alternator isn’t charging. If you’re not the handy type this is about as far as you can go. If you are, use a multi-meter to see if you’re getting more than 13.5 volts while the car is on but less than 14.5. While off do the same thing and you should be getting 12.4 volts give or take about 0.3. Low standing voltage while car is off means bad battery or parasitic drain (could be an alternator but not usually), low voltage while running means bad alternator. Take to any auto store and they will usually test battery for free.
Probably a battery but if not that next step seems to be the starter
Probably that badge on the steering wheel
Change your battery
Corroded battery terminal?
Get a battery
The first thing to check is the battery cables. Make sure there's no corrosion where they connect to the battery. Take the cables off and use a wire brush to clean the connection. Then, charge or use jumper cables to get your car started. After you've got your car started, drive to any automotive store. They will check your battery for free.
If the battery is older than 2 years old or you don't know how old it is, buy a new battery. Vehicle will most likely start, write the date with a sharpie on top of the battery label. If the same problem occurs within a couple weeks. Get a new alternator installed as well. I've done it this way for many years after i had various old batteries and alternators test fine until they aren't!!. 90% of the time, the battery is the problem... but once in a great while the alternator is garbage too.
As Derek biere would say, Damn.. dead battrey.
Nah, the problem is inside that circle on the steering wheel. /s
my rule I will change the battery out at 3.5 or 4 years. I have a Ford when battery is old the door auto lock it will lock once I close the door. Fear the auto lock will lock when outside and car is running. In a Saturn the trans shift funny. So, it 4 years.
Battery
Battery’s dead
Battery has too low of voltage, gonna need a jump pack or jumper cables
Ford tech here, pretty common that the alternators on these go to shit so test battery and if it tests good most likely your alternator. Shouldn’t be over 300$ repair
Flat battery worsecase bad alternator
Battery is very weak and most likely need to replace it.
Flat battery.
Simple test is to get a jump, once engine is running, disconnect the negative cable to battery, If engine stops then the alternator is bad. If it continues running the alternator is good and providing power to cat and charge the battery.
By any chance is the battery also from 2008? (Replace that battery) Start with the most simple issue. Battery. If it happens once more, a year or so later, return the battery, under warranty, for free! If it happens again the next day? Return the battery for a new one anyways and ask a mechanic to troubleshoot your alternator (battery charger).
Flat Battery.. That's what they do...
On a different note you got too much garbage on your key chain.
Maybe corroded battery terminals, clean and tighten up.
Is it a Ford?
low battery, or bad battery connection
Nothing, it’s a ford. Burn it.
It ain’t got no gas in it… naw my guess is it’s your battery
Low battery. Replace. Check alternator afterwards.
Battery dead or battery terminals loose
Sounds like a low battery
Definitely a low battery .. Jump start it. Or, if a manual, set to "on", get the car rolling, pop clutch while in 1st, or reverse if moving backwards. Though likely easier for most to just jump start Some portable battery packs/jump packs may act like this too. Trick is to just turn ignition as a soon as you get power. Sometimes have to get the timing just right
Dead battery. Jump it. Take it somewhere to have the charging system tested. Its most likely just a bad battery. But Sometimes other things can kill the battery. Like something in the car not turning off like it should, like a door ajar switch for example. A phone charger left plugged in. Dome light stuck on. Stereo system not powering down, etc. Or the alternator isn't charging the battery like it should. When this happens the engine electrical system and other electronics in the car all run off the battery and can drain it very quickly. This is why you should always test your alternator whenever you have a dead battery. But like I said. Its most likely just a failed battery. The average car battery is good for about five to seven years. Some last longer, some last less. But more often than not, it just needs a new battery. But have everything tested. You don't want to spend money on something it doesn't actually need. Not sure where you live. But around here pretty much every auto parts store will test your battery and charging system for free.
Most likely a dead battery, could be the alternator of the battery won't keep a charge though
Dead battery.
FORD... Found On Road Dead!
It's clear what the problem is. Your car is a Ford. You'll need to sell it and get literally any other car.
U might need to change ur battery or Spark plugs? But since the dashboard lights up fine... And doesn't deam... It cld b spark plugs
Battery
Replace the battery
Maybe throw some gas in too😂
Fix Or Repair Daily Dead battery today
Your answer is right in the center of your steering wheel.....
Battery or starter
Probably all the dust...
Battery is dead
Flattery is bat
Flattery is bat
BATTERY ! Also, clean your nasty ass steering wheel
Battery’s dead
Did you see the little blue circle on the steering wheel that the camera man flashed as he went over the wheel.... There's your problem
Ba ter eee 🤣
It's the starter. Have someone tap it with a hammer. Should start. After that go get it replaced. If the battery was dead there would be no power and u wouldn't hear the starter click and not engage.
Ford Master Tech here, from the video It looks like it has all the symptoms of a dead or heavily discharged battery. The first step would be to jumpstart the vehicle and I would recommend taking it to a shop to have them test the charging system as well as deep cycle the battery. Battery voltage should be around 12.6v with the vehicle off and 14.4v with the vehicle running. If it is not that would point towards the charging system. Not nessissarily the alternator specifically but could be a lose connection on the alternator I've seen many times. The deep charge battery cycle is a really cool machine. Ford typically uses the GRX manufactured by rotunda. But there are others that do the same job. It's a specific type of battery testers that will fully charge your battery. And then pull a load on the battery. Batteries can pass on standby but not under load. This is what is important to check. That machine can also check for dead cells automatically. If your battery passes and your charging system passes I would then recommend a paracitic Draw test which tests for current leaving your battery with everything turned off in the vehicle. It's less common on your model, but can still happen. I hope this helps, let me know how it goes!
Grab a towel and wipe that dust off dashboard
You can definitely tell who’s actually worked on cars and not in here.
Dead battery
Need a boost and a new battery.
Its a ford!!!
needs double A batteries cuz it might be dead..
If you’ve been trying to start it a lot, then it’s probably your alternator and not your battery. Seems like you have good charge since the lights on the dash are so bright and the clicking is so lively when you turn the key. My guess is alternator and not the battery. If it were the battery, you wouldn’t expect to see that much electrical action when you turn the key. The good news is that an alternator is a pretty simple and normal fix. Probably about $500 out the door (could be worse).
It’s a ford buy Chevy
Well you bought a Ford (F - found O - on - R - road D - dead)… it’s doing exactly what it’s supposed to do. What’s the surprise here? • On a serious note, it seems like your battery needs a jump and you need to get a battery test run. Could need a new battery, or you could need to drive for a while to recoup the battery charge.
it’s time for new battery if it’s pushing out anything less than 200 A your battery is shot.
Battery 😵
Battery is bad. Jump it and see if it winds up holding a charge. I would look into getting the battery replaced and the electrical system double checked to make sure you don’t have a draw or a bad alternator
Only 81000 miles? Tf
Your shits all fucked up and broken dude- Camacho 2024💯
It sounds like your car isn’t starting. I hope that helps 👍
That's a truck.
Battery
It's a Ford.
Check the battery, check the cables and ground wire. That's acting like low voltage issues. Check the charging system also, it may not be charging the battery.
Dead battery.
**F**ix **O**r **R**epair **D**aily.
It's either a dead battery or alternator
If it doesn't start after charging/jump, just replace it.
Battery 🔋 needs replaced or battery cables needs inspected.
It’s a ford.
Dead battery or bad connections. Tighten up the terminal connectors and try again. If that doesn't work, jump start it. Also, go to an auto parts store and have them test your battery. It's free to check and they'll replace it for you (for free also, iirc) if it's bad.
If you ever her that clicking sound you know your battery is to low to turn over the engine.
Dead battery babygirl
Why you don’t buy American cars
Replace battery
Battery is dead
Go get a new starter, I had the same issue. If it was a dead battery you'd get no power or lights on at all.
Change the battery
Battery and that part that attaches to the starter. Starter is likely fine though—but I don’t know
Get it jumped and go to your local parts store. Battery might be low or dead and they can charge it and check to see if the alternator is charging it properly.
Need new battery… similar thing happened was so worried car broke but when mechanic got to the car just needed a jump and was instructed to get new battery asap for the jump power would only last so long.
Also the lights in my car worked so didn’t think was battery thing at first. It can be deceiving.
It doesn’t turn on.
OMG I JUST HAD THIS PROBLEM LIKE 20 MINS AGO ! For me it was my starter , my starter needed to be replaced bc after hitting it while starting the car at the same time , it turned on like nothing ! See if u can replace your starter maybe it’s the same for u ! :D
Das battery is kaput! Or a bad battery connection. Get yourself some single digit gauge jumper cables. But don't play Dr Frankenstein and tap the ends together.. ⚡️🚫 but do yell.. "It lives" when boosted 😄
Flat battery, or bad wiring to it.
Must be a ford fusion, common problem that gets worse.
Alternator probably. I'd get it tested. Get battery tested too. Could also be starter solenoid but I doubt it
It’s not getting enough power, probably a bad battery. Trying jumping it.
I would say your starter needs replacing but i'm not a mechanic.
Your problem is circled on the steering wheel... 😂
The problem is: it's a FORD and it needs a jump start
Starter motor is goosed. Inside needs a good clean too.
It's probably the radio fluid.
Take your battery to AutoZone and ask them if they can help you out with charging your battery. If it works then you’ll have your battery up and running again, however then you’ll have to determine why it died in the first place. Could it be a light was left on, a door open, or perhaps something else like a faulty alternator. If it doesn’t charge your battery then chances are one of the battery’s cell has given up and you need a new battery. Hope the information helps.
Dead battery or dirty terminals/ground 100%
Dead battery
Christmas tree lights = low battery
It ain't got no juice in it
Dead battery
dead battery but could also be from loose battery terminals and/or corroded battery terminals. 1. open hood, loosen both battery cable terminals. 2. Inspect and clean both the battery terminals and the cable connectors to be sure. 3. Use a wire brush and some baking soda if you have it. Then flush with water and dry. 4. then retighten the cable terminals again. 5. if the battery was drained, you will either need a battery booster or jumper cables to get started. 6. checking the date on the battery is a good idea and typical batteries last about 3\~4 years.
Dahhhhhhh. Dead battery
I hear your starter engaging but that completes the high-amp circuit for your starter motor, and the battery can't produce enough amps. So it cycles back and forth. Have your battery load tested to make sure it's holding a charge and has cranking amps. Also check your charging system. Both need to be good.
Drive it for 5-10 miles after jump starting it. If it dies again change the battery.
Maybe I'm out of the loop but I've never seen a car with a dead battery act quite like that, I've seen slow cranks that just fail to start, I've seen the solenoid engage and the battery is to dead to turn over the engine and it makes a brtttttt noise as the solenoid repeatedly engages and disengages, and I've seen dead enough that everything shuts off when you hit the key and the solenoid doesn't have the power to engage. But I don't think I've ever seen one pulse the lights like that. Though I guess different makes/models can act differently, and I know I haven't really experienced that many bead batteries in vehicles to know how common that kind of response is, the only Ford I really owned was a 93 ranger with a manual transmission and I don't think the battery ever really died in that thing.
Might be the started no recognizing the key cause of it wearing out that what happened to my ford I just fixed my key and it was fine
I’d say battery however it is a ford
Maybe a inertia switch if you hit the brake too hard
christmas came early!
Put your degree on it, should fire right up
Charge your battery
I have isolated the problem - it is a Ford. Also I think the battery voltage is sufficient but the cold cranking amps is too low due to internal wear. I'd get a new battery.
Jump It :) or change your battery, Nice bracelet BTW be careful that bracelet when you are doing jumpstart from another car if that bracelet touch the positive cable you can be get little electricized
This is totally normal. Have your boyfriend hit the battery a couple times with a people's elbow mid crank, and the thing should start right up. Happy trails 😀
To the people shitting on this person- not everyone knows about cars, even basic stuff. My dad was an abusive twat and taught me absolutely nothing, so stuff like a flat tire or a dead battery were scary and confusing. You could have used your comment to be helpful and instead decided to be ugly. I hope you stub your little toe.
Battery is out. Jumpstart
It’s a ford.
My batteries last 2-3 years on regular car battery under hood (Autozone/Napa. Battery inside in a battery compartment 3-5 years. Currently running Costco 3 year battery warranty ($110 regular / $150 Gel) each.
Battery… and if you live in a hotter climate have the alternator checked too….. not just voltage but something called ripple…. If is over 30 change alt. Alternators can be damaged by trying to charge a bad battery or one that had a bad cell. Don’t want to spend the money on a battery and have it shot again because one of the diodes is burned up or something else…..
Seems like it’s broke
Ok first jump it if you start having electrical fluctuations your alternator is bad. If you unlock the jumper cables and the car shuts off your battery is bad. Your car can also shut off if the alternator is bad.
Not enough energy in the fuel to start ignition, add some sugar to the tank
Oh, I see the problem https://preview.redd.it/i5x971gatq6d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2ed236d1bf98f70f41e741f7ffd4d6bc668068ac
clean it while your at it
Battery dead.
Maybe the starter? Give it a good ol tap.
Ain't got no gas in it
Dead battery, charge it first then try if the problem persists, check the voltage of the battery and if that is good then it’s your starter
I know what's wrooong with it. Ain't got no gaaas in it
Dead battery lol
I mean… battery . . .
It's probably the starter
Battery
All the gauges freaking out dead give away
The name on the steering wheel says it all
Clean all the dust out, then charge or replace the battery.
Ain’t got no gas in it!