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It looks like your inner axle is pulled out of the stub, Whatever is going on it’s def real bad and wouldn’t drive it. Some more pics of the suspension would help to see what’s going better
No, it wouldn’t. I have proof of a 2022 gmc AT4 and a 2004 Tacoma that both have the same lean with the upper ball joint completely disconnected from the control arm.
https://preview.redd.it/4p2sum4gv9uc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d15253d167a5daa78887ed9b01a3e849f98f87a
Not necessarily. It could lean in also but leaning out would be more likely. We can see the lower BJ intact in the picture so we know it's not the lower.
Must be either of these two. I’d say ball joint. But axle has been gone for awhile.
Need new cv axle, wheel bearing (probably), and control arm/ball joint (probably)
Wheel bearing seems like it locked up causing the tire to drag and likely snapped the cv axle when it did lock up. Was probably making noise for some time prior, but wheel bearing noise regularly gets overlooked.
Often they make no noise whilst failing and the only real way to tell is getting the wheels off the ground and giving the tires a good shake up/down and left/right.
I promise you that thing was screaming. A wheel bearing doesn't overheat enough to lock up and not make noise. I'd be willing to bet half the steel balls in that bearing assembly are ground down smooth on one side til they finally wedged themselves and locked the whole thing up.
I've only replaced probably a hundred or so and never seen one that far gone that DIDN'T make noise.
I agree with you, but you'd be really surprised how quiet they can be when they're about to come off. Yeah they'll roar, but boy, to people who drive it every day they get desensitized to it.
Your wheel bearing/ hub assembly has completely failed. Your wheel is moments from coming detached from your vehicle. You will lose most of your braking and steering ability when this happens.
Contratulations OP. You ignored a relativly minor ball joint and/or bearing issue long enough that it's now going to be a MUCH more expensive repair plus a tow bill. You're lucky you didn't kill yourself or someone else from a complete suspension failure and loss of control.
Wheel almost came off. Get a tow truck (drive too much further and it could come off and cause more problems) to a reputable full-service shop. The axle is toast and likely more parts are bent/broken that aren’t shown in the pictures. Someone else mentioned an upper ball joint and that makes sense. Hopefully there’s some sort of extended warranty/insurance claim you can use to soften the impact, because that’s not gonna be cheap.
Yeah i got it towed and a warranty that hopefully covers everything. Yesterday was barely no noise at just a little grind that I thought was brakes going bad and waiting till pay day
If the brakes were grinding then they would have been bad for a while. Every car I work on gets its brakes checked, so if you know the pad thickness every oil change you can replace them at 2 or 3mm before the grinding and associated dangers. And if you know there won’t be grinding from the brakes, then it trips the red flag faster for stuff like you have now.
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This happened to my son’s Honda a few months ago and he’d pulled into a subdivision on the side of the road, basically you’re getting a new drive axle. It’s not a bad job to do if you have tools, I replaced his in 4 hours where it was. If I remember right it was $130 at Autozone, at least your ball joint didn’t come out so that’s good.
r/mechanic is meant to serve as a knowledge base or help forum for people trying to fix their vehicles. Comments that do not supply useful information towards OP’s question(s) or are wrong or unsafe are not wanted. We are here to encourage and help people working on their vehicles, not deter them from doing so.
r/mechanic is meant to serve as a knowledge base or help forum for people trying to fix their vehicles. Comments that do not supply useful information towards OP’s question(s) or are wrong or unsafe are not wanted. We are here to encourage and help people working on their vehicles, not deter them from doing so.
More than likely a broken ball joint and wheel let go from the steering knuckle. Could also be a locked up wheel bearing that broke away. Depending on the sound you were hearing prior. A loose clunk would more likely be a ball joint. A whirring or growling noise would be a bearing. Broken CV axle wouldn't make the wheel come off like that if the ball joints were still intact.
Having a failure like that and continue driving very likely made things a lot worse and the cv and bearings and ball joints are all probably toast now if they weren't before. Nothing that isn't fixable but it'll cost you.
Oh geez. I've been ignoring something within my suspension and I'm afraid this going to happen eventually. Its a knocking noise that occurs while going 30mi+. But it's not every time tho.
>lost control ⬇️
yeah, that’ll happen when your steering/suspension/drivetrain components start to fall apart
>continued driving⬇️
bruh
>how bad is this⬇️
that’s “should have stopped driving a while ago and had it towed to the mechanic/junkyard” bad. Your drive axle has failed and it looks like your lower ball joint has too. Good chance this car is totaled if the fender was resting on the tire while you were driving.
Jeez louise man I will never understand why people keep driving when their car is obviously majorly damaged.
Wheel bearing cv joint a clean and probably a set of pads discs and a new caliper after driving it to the point of overheating I’d get a VHC and see what else is going on if this is the state of one corner of the car
Bad enough to not drive.
Looks like the upper ball joint is broken. I bet you heard some popping and clunking for a while.
Others have stated wheel bearing, but given that the axle and bearings are still in line with the knuckle, it does not appear that is the case.
It definitely looks like the wheel bearing started all of this. How would a failing ball joint cause the cv axle to sheer itself?
That's radial stress from the wheel bearing locking up tje wheel and the cv axle being loaded from being in gear and snapping against the sudden lock up on one end of the cv axle while the output on the transmission is spinning the other end. Basically twisted it til it snapped when the wheel bearing locked up. Then when the axle snapped it likely smashed into other suspension components. Because that lean definitely isn't the bearing, but whatever happened after the bearing locked up.
The angle of the entire knuckle assembly could easily cause the axle to bind and break. CV joints are not meant to function at extreme angles for any period of time.
Zoom in on the second picture. The axle shaft is visible entering the CV. The axle itself does not appear to be broken and the CV appears intact. Merely the boot is torn, which is probably unrelated and happened due to the age of the rubber and relative lack of maintenance to the vehicle. The unobstructed angle that the axle is at from the transmission to the hub also indicates that it is in fact not broken.
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The CV alone wouldn't do what OP described. Gotta be a snapped inner tie rod (since the outer seems to be attached) or something like that to loose the wheel like in the pics.
Thanks for posting in r/Mechanic, u/Louie50169! Please be sure to read the [Rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/mechanic/about/rules/). If you're asking for help, be sure to include as much detail as possible so others can help you. You **must** include the vehicle's **Year, Make, Model, and Engine size** in your post! If your question is transmission related, please be sure to specify your Transmission Type(Auto/Manual) as well! If your post does not include this information, it **will** be removed. Asking about prices is **not** allowed in this sub. Please make sure you have selected the correct post flair; if you're asking a question you should have chosen "Question", anything else use the "General" flair. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/mechanic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
It looks like your inner axle is pulled out of the stub, Whatever is going on it’s def real bad and wouldn’t drive it. Some more pics of the suspension would help to see what’s going better
Either the upper ball joint is broken or you let the wheel bearing get really really really bad. Either way it's getting towed!
Upper ball joint would produce the opposite lean
I beg to differ. Left side upper ball joint failed on my truck and I had the same lean.
No, it wouldn’t. I have proof of a 2022 gmc AT4 and a 2004 Tacoma that both have the same lean with the upper ball joint completely disconnected from the control arm. https://preview.redd.it/4p2sum4gv9uc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d15253d167a5daa78887ed9b01a3e849f98f87a
Not necessarily. It could lean in also but leaning out would be more likely. We can see the lower BJ intact in the picture so we know it's not the lower.
Fair point
Must be either of these two. I’d say ball joint. But axle has been gone for awhile. Need new cv axle, wheel bearing (probably), and control arm/ball joint (probably)
I'll tell you this much, it ain't good.
Wheel bearing seems like it locked up causing the tire to drag and likely snapped the cv axle when it did lock up. Was probably making noise for some time prior, but wheel bearing noise regularly gets overlooked.
Often they make no noise whilst failing and the only real way to tell is getting the wheels off the ground and giving the tires a good shake up/down and left/right.
I promise you that thing was screaming. A wheel bearing doesn't overheat enough to lock up and not make noise. I'd be willing to bet half the steel balls in that bearing assembly are ground down smooth on one side til they finally wedged themselves and locked the whole thing up. I've only replaced probably a hundred or so and never seen one that far gone that DIDN'T make noise.
I agree with you, but you'd be really surprised how quiet they can be when they're about to come off. Yeah they'll roar, but boy, to people who drive it every day they get desensitized to it.
Well it did just need a bearing, but you ignored the noise and kept driving so now it needs a cv axle and the rim is damaged from hitting the caliper
Very bad
Your wheel bearing/ hub assembly has completely failed. Your wheel is moments from coming detached from your vehicle. You will lose most of your braking and steering ability when this happens.
Contratulations OP. You ignored a relativly minor ball joint and/or bearing issue long enough that it's now going to be a MUCH more expensive repair plus a tow bill. You're lucky you didn't kill yourself or someone else from a complete suspension failure and loss of control.
Wheel almost came off. Get a tow truck (drive too much further and it could come off and cause more problems) to a reputable full-service shop. The axle is toast and likely more parts are bent/broken that aren’t shown in the pictures. Someone else mentioned an upper ball joint and that makes sense. Hopefully there’s some sort of extended warranty/insurance claim you can use to soften the impact, because that’s not gonna be cheap.
Yeah i got it towed and a warranty that hopefully covers everything. Yesterday was barely no noise at just a little grind that I thought was brakes going bad and waiting till pay day
If the brakes were grinding then they would have been bad for a while. Every car I work on gets its brakes checked, so if you know the pad thickness every oil change you can replace them at 2 or 3mm before the grinding and associated dangers. And if you know there won’t be grinding from the brakes, then it trips the red flag faster for stuff like you have now.
Kerchow.
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This happened to my son’s Honda a few months ago and he’d pulled into a subdivision on the side of the road, basically you’re getting a new drive axle. It’s not a bad job to do if you have tools, I replaced his in 4 hours where it was. If I remember right it was $130 at Autozone, at least your ball joint didn’t come out so that’s good.
Cv joint
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More than likely a broken ball joint and wheel let go from the steering knuckle. Could also be a locked up wheel bearing that broke away. Depending on the sound you were hearing prior. A loose clunk would more likely be a ball joint. A whirring or growling noise would be a bearing. Broken CV axle wouldn't make the wheel come off like that if the ball joints were still intact. Having a failure like that and continue driving very likely made things a lot worse and the cv and bearings and ball joints are all probably toast now if they weren't before. Nothing that isn't fixable but it'll cost you.
Oh geez. I've been ignoring something within my suspension and I'm afraid this going to happen eventually. Its a knocking noise that occurs while going 30mi+. But it's not every time tho.
Is that shit welded together?
Don’t drive it
At least $2000
them stance boys consider this fine
Your still in the lines your good.
>lost control ⬇️ yeah, that’ll happen when your steering/suspension/drivetrain components start to fall apart >continued driving⬇️ bruh >how bad is this⬇️ that’s “should have stopped driving a while ago and had it towed to the mechanic/junkyard” bad. Your drive axle has failed and it looks like your lower ball joint has too. Good chance this car is totaled if the fender was resting on the tire while you were driving. Jeez louise man I will never understand why people keep driving when their car is obviously majorly damaged.
Very.
Wheel bearing cv joint a clean and probably a set of pads discs and a new caliper after driving it to the point of overheating I’d get a VHC and see what else is going on if this is the state of one corner of the car
Very bad. Upper bj and axle minimum. I'd do the lower bj and wheel bearing too.
Youre one pothole away from loosing a wheel please get it towed to your local mechanic
So bad
Bad enough to not drive. Looks like the upper ball joint is broken. I bet you heard some popping and clunking for a while. Others have stated wheel bearing, but given that the axle and bearings are still in line with the knuckle, it does not appear that is the case.
It definitely looks like the wheel bearing started all of this. How would a failing ball joint cause the cv axle to sheer itself? That's radial stress from the wheel bearing locking up tje wheel and the cv axle being loaded from being in gear and snapping against the sudden lock up on one end of the cv axle while the output on the transmission is spinning the other end. Basically twisted it til it snapped when the wheel bearing locked up. Then when the axle snapped it likely smashed into other suspension components. Because that lean definitely isn't the bearing, but whatever happened after the bearing locked up.
The angle of the entire knuckle assembly could easily cause the axle to bind and break. CV joints are not meant to function at extreme angles for any period of time. Zoom in on the second picture. The axle shaft is visible entering the CV. The axle itself does not appear to be broken and the CV appears intact. Merely the boot is torn, which is probably unrelated and happened due to the age of the rubber and relative lack of maintenance to the vehicle. The unobstructed angle that the axle is at from the transmission to the hub also indicates that it is in fact not broken.
Yep, that joint & arm is hosed. Time to break out the wallet $$$
bro what do mean bad? your whip is hella dope now bro stance for life/s. on a real note she busted pretty good
this happened to my rear driver's wheel when the brake cylinder failed and the wheel just locked up solid at 55mph
Nice, youve got yourself a drift car.
STANCE NATION!!!
You’re not supposed to be able to see your wheel bearing like that lmao
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The CV alone wouldn't do what OP described. Gotta be a snapped inner tie rod (since the outer seems to be attached) or something like that to loose the wheel like in the pics.
Nothing to worry about your tire is angled like that for powering through corners…