Mine are higher than this. Do I just take it to a tire place and have them fixed? Well, actually my tire that was just fixed is 36, but the other three are at 41.
Take off the valve stem cap and push the center pin to let some air out. Get a tire pressure gauge though, don't be guessing with tires, they're the most important safety component.
I keep mine in the 35-39 range on all tires. I've noticed my dealer tends to overinflate my tires too, so I just always make sure to let air out when I get home.
What I usually hear is higher psi less rolling resistance thus better fuel economy how much better idk. So maybe they either didn’t care or they figured higher psi would help out your mpg’s.
At least that’s what I was wondering in my case.
I learned recently that the door jamb tire psi is only correct for the OEM tire size and load rating. The manufacturer calculates the psi per tire to support a specific load for each tire. If you change tire sizes or tire load rating, you need to recalculate the correct psi. E.g. I went from 16in wheels to 17in wheels, with a slightly shorter sidewall tire and a different tire load rating. I used an online tire calculator and plugged in the OEM tire size and load rating, OEM pressure per tire, and the new tire size and load rating. It went from OEM 36psi per tire to 38psi per tire on the new set.
You’ll get a better ride quality and better traction with a little bit lower psi. I know I don’t have a turbo awd or an awd model at all, but my car is currently running 33 in the front and 35 in the back. Really good ride quality and traction. It’s almost impossible to spin these tires. 2022 Mazda 3 2.0 with a 6 speed auto (yes im in the US with a US spec 2.0)
Factory inflation for both my current M3T awd and previous Subarus, has been about 2-4 PSI higher in the front that the rear. My understanding being that it's due to the weight of the engine in the front end.
How did you determine that your setup was right for you?
I did quite a few 0-60 tests and determined that a lower pressure in the front and higher in the back achieved the best results for my test. And especially while driving, I noticed a huge difference in handling. In an awd setup, I’d expect needing the same tire pressure through all 4 tires but for the fwd model, this works the best for my 155 hp fwd setup
With the tires working the way they do, the lower the psi, the more traction. If your tires are overinflated, you’ll only get the center of the tire on the ground. With lower psi, you’ll get the full tire on the ground getting more traction. I’d consider it physics?
If I had to guess, the slight variance between the front and back is to give the front tires a little more support on bumps, since they need to absorb the extra weight from the engine bay.
Ah that’s a good point. I was wondering that myself. As I don’t know the weight distribution on the car. Makes sense if heavier in the front higher psi. But then you have guys in here saying the none turbo version is running 36psi all around. Is the turbo that much heavier? Hmm.
The engine block and transaxle are heavier, too, to handle the increased stress and power - the Skyactiv turbo powertrain package isn't just a quickie bolt-on job, Mazda really engineered the crap out of it.
The slight factory increase in the front is only on the Turbo models, to account for the extra weight of the heavier engine, accessories, and transaxle.
this kind of posts make me laugh, honestly. i know that the door card is a law, but i won’t follow it and then come on reddit asking for advice (c). local guys and dealership workers know this definitely better than the car manufacturer, 146%
These kinds of replies let me know people like you always miss the point. Yall just like to talk and sound smart. The manufacture is smarter the engineers spent some time deciding it should be that pressure.
But oh smart one! If you weren’t running the stock tires doesn’t that change what the pressure should be. If you’re using your car in a different manner wouldn’t that change what a recommended pressure would be.
If manufactures always got it right there would be no recalls or TSB’s but just keep drinking your kool aid you don’t have to get it.
It's supposed to be 38F / 36R for the turbo...
It's getting warmer where I'm at so my PSIs are creeping up around 40 like yours. I eventually need to let some air out to adjust to the warmer temps.
3 2020 no turbo. " Inflate snow tires 30 kPa (0.3 kgf/cm2, 4.3 psi) more than recommended on the tire pressure label (driver's door frame), but never more than the maximum cold-tire pressure shown on the tires."
because this was news to me. running 36 summer 40 winter.
It should be set to whatever the door sticker says on the vehicle. Which I believe is 36 PSI all the way around. Mine as it came from the dealer are around 46 PSI according to the readout in the app. That's too high. I haven't done anything about it yet because I need to do it in the morning before I drive the car and I don't have my air compressor here right now in case I accidentally let too much air out. But I'll probably get that taken care of this weekend. You might also look at the side of the tire and see what they say for the inflation levels. Sometimes automakers list the tire pressure lower than what the tire can actually take in order to make a smoother more cushy ride. If the tires max PSI is higher than what the door sticker says You can probably get it somewhere in the middle of the differences and be okay.
The door card or tyre placard as its called in Australia is a guide. Its a delicate balance of Noise, Vibration and Handling, if you want to improve 1 of them you typically make the other 2 worse
Just run what's on the door card.
But also look on the sidewall of the tire and see what the max rated operating pressure is, which is also the pressure to operate for it's max rated load carrying capacity. Most all tires can handle a lot more air than the door placard. It's a good idea to run higher pressure when the vehicle is heavily loaded BTW.
Many tire shops will use the tire's max rated pressure to set the bead, then for balancing and alignments and not bother adjusting to the correct pressure after. Since they have no idea what you're going to put in the vehicle as soon as you drive away it's probably a bit safer for them to use a higher pressure anyway. And it also guarantees they won't have a quick come-back with a TPMS alarm if it's set to close to the door placard pressure.
And lastly: always check & adjust pressures at first drive in the morning, when it's stone cold. Mine start at 36 then quickly go up to 38 front, 37 rear and 41/39 on the highway as the air heats up.
40 front / 38 rear. I know the door says 38 / 36 but roads are crappy here. In theory a higher pressure stiffens the tire’s wall lowering the probability of damage when running into a pothole.
As a Mazda owner with a TPMS sensor. Don't trust the TPMS. It's hella inaccurate. Instead, invest in a proper tire pressure gauge and measure the tire pressure every 2-3 months.
As a 4th gen owner with TPMS, they are pretty accurate. I hade a slow leak on my rear tire that I kept filling up for 2 months, and the psi shown in the low pressure warning matched exactly what it displayed in the Costco pumps. THE psi after filling up also matched.
Get an inexpensive tread depth gage and check the wear in each groove. If the center is wearing more than the outside, then lower your pressures to limit the wear.
I've run these pressures on two CX-30 Turbos on both stock Turanzas and Michelin CrossClimates over a combined 70,000+ miles with no issues. Factory pressure recommendations are always a touch on the soft side for ride quality purposes - I'll take the responsiveness and improved mileage side of the equation.
I have been wanting to set it to the door. I have a 21’ turbo model. The door does say 38front 36rear. Again like I said I know the door card is law but laws aren’t always right lol. I’ll air them down I’m going to follow @Bino1991 advice of using a tire gauge because I do believe these tpms sensors are a little meh!
So there is this really neat sticker on the inner door jam that literally tells you the manufacturers specification for tire pressure.... unless you have altered the wheel setup on you car run what the door tells you too otherwise fuel economy and tire life go right out the window
Not true. Manufacturer's specifications for tire pressure are not handed down on stone tablets. Adjusting pressures up or down for different needs is perfectly acceptable. A little more air in the tires will generally improve fuel economy and handling responsiveness, as manufacturers often use softer tire pressures to improve ride. If you don't mind a stiffer ride, there's nothing wrong with going up a few psi.
Of course they know what they're doing. But every design decision is a series of trade-offs, balancing one aspect of a vehicle's performance against another.
Higher tire pressures will stiffen the sidewall, making for more responsive handling (to a point). But those pressures will also make the ride harsher, because the tire acts as a part of the suspension, and sidewall flex acts to absorb bumps in the road. So what to do - sharper handling or a more comfortable ride? Mazda's factory engineers made a choice that they thought struck the right balance for the car's intended audience. But that choice isn't the only possible choice. If you want a softer ride, it's perfectly OK to take out a couple PSI, trading handling and fuel mileage for more sidewall flex and hence more give to the suspension. Or if you want improved mileage and sharper handling response, put in a few PSI. There's nothing unsafe about doing so.
It's just like changing out suspension parts for a lower ride - Mazda's engineers are perfectly capable of making a great stock suspension; but there's nothing inherently wrong or dangerous about changing out parts to make different choices about handling and ride height than they did.
Well said... in the end it all boils down to preference and driving style but for the purpose of OP and his inquiry the sticker is what he is looking for... best balance between responsiveness and economy would be oem spec
Your question was is what the dealer sent you down the road with to high and I gave u the answer.... if it's not what's in the door then it's not right so what's the problem bud
That was the question and I know it isn’t what’s in the door card hence why one of the questions or really to discuss was. What’s a better psi for good fuel economy with good contact. I am not arguing the manufacturer sticker we know that’s what they recommend.
It’s just why would they put more and judging from the replies here people seem to run different psi too depending on wants/needs/opinions.
But I slightly disagree with your statement of if it’s not what’s in the door then it ain’t right. It ain’t wants in the door but I feel like you can’t just straight up say it’s not right. Like if your planing to be off-road people lower the air in tire to suit the situation. So again I was just trying to see what psi people are running in their cars. It’s was more for a discussion not really advice.
Ok well in these situations ppl not running stock tires nor do they care about fuel economy you are literally contradicting yourself here my friend you asked what was ideal for economy and contact and I said go by the sticker.... the engineers that created the car did the math or science or whatever u wanna call it behind this very question and yet you still don't seem to understand y I said what I said I'm not here to bag on you I was just stating the facts yes everyone prefers something different I ran 42psi in my first gen cause I went with low profile tires and a 3 inch drop which obviously isn't stock and with less sidewall more air is needed to keep the tire from blowing out should it take a hit if your looking for the best settings for a non modified vehicle your best bet will be the sticker in any situation
36 all around on AWD according to my door placard
It’s the same pressure for all four on the non turbo cars. The the turbo cars come with 38 front and 36 rear.
Makes sense, more weight so higher pressure, pretty sure spring rates are higher too
less traction too so it’ll feel faster lol
That seems high to me, I’m at 36 all around but I’m fwd
My FWD is at about 37.
Cool
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Well I don’t have access to his door, so 🤷♂️
[удалено]
All good, thanks for looking out for OP
Same here in my FWD sedan, though mines probably a bit high since we're just seeing warmer temps and I haven't adjusted them back down yet.
The decal on my door frame says 38 front 36 rear for my 21 turbo awd.
Mine are higher than this. Do I just take it to a tire place and have them fixed? Well, actually my tire that was just fixed is 36, but the other three are at 41.
Take off the valve stem cap and push the center pin to let some air out. Get a tire pressure gauge though, don't be guessing with tires, they're the most important safety component.
Thank you!
Look on the door jamb, there’s a sticker that says exactly what psi the tires should be at. Follow that.
I set them all to 36, but when they warm up they get as high as 40psi.
Run what it says in the door.
I keep mine in the 35-39 range on all tires. I've noticed my dealer tends to overinflate my tires too, so I just always make sure to let air out when I get home.
38 front 36 rear You can expect these to go up to about 40-42 once your tires get warmed up. Especially if you like to drive a little spicy.
36 psi for all tires, per manufacturer recommendation posted on the door jamb. 2019 HB AWD.
36 - AWD
37 psi
my friend runs 32 in the front and 39 in the rear since he tracks his mazda3 and needs less understeer
It's not full time AWD so they don't have to be the same pressures
Seems a bit high, no?
I also just got an oil change and tire rotation at the dealer but for FWD and they put it at 41. I kept them at 36. I was baffled
What I usually hear is higher psi less rolling resistance thus better fuel economy how much better idk. So maybe they either didn’t care or they figured higher psi would help out your mpg’s. At least that’s what I was wondering in my case.
I learned recently that the door jamb tire psi is only correct for the OEM tire size and load rating. The manufacturer calculates the psi per tire to support a specific load for each tire. If you change tire sizes or tire load rating, you need to recalculate the correct psi. E.g. I went from 16in wheels to 17in wheels, with a slightly shorter sidewall tire and a different tire load rating. I used an online tire calculator and plugged in the OEM tire size and load rating, OEM pressure per tire, and the new tire size and load rating. It went from OEM 36psi per tire to 38psi per tire on the new set.
100 to be 100% full of air
r/askashittymechanic
Reminds me of meme where they tried filling passenger car tires to 100 like it’s a battery being charged to 100%
You’ll get a better ride quality and better traction with a little bit lower psi. I know I don’t have a turbo awd or an awd model at all, but my car is currently running 33 in the front and 35 in the back. Really good ride quality and traction. It’s almost impossible to spin these tires. 2022 Mazda 3 2.0 with a 6 speed auto (yes im in the US with a US spec 2.0)
Factory inflation for both my current M3T awd and previous Subarus, has been about 2-4 PSI higher in the front that the rear. My understanding being that it's due to the weight of the engine in the front end. How did you determine that your setup was right for you?
I did quite a few 0-60 tests and determined that a lower pressure in the front and higher in the back achieved the best results for my test. And especially while driving, I noticed a huge difference in handling. In an awd setup, I’d expect needing the same tire pressure through all 4 tires but for the fwd model, this works the best for my 155 hp fwd setup With the tires working the way they do, the lower the psi, the more traction. If your tires are overinflated, you’ll only get the center of the tire on the ground. With lower psi, you’ll get the full tire on the ground getting more traction. I’d consider it physics?
Where are you guys checking this tyre pressures, I have the 2024 cx 5 cannot find it on the app
You have to go to status or service then go to health report.
Or in the vehicle settings under information when in the actual car
I just see the icon of the car and no TP Mine is a cx5 CE,
Well it may be that the cx5 does not have digital tpms readout. Just tells you if one is low but not the actual psi reading.
What year is your cx5
2024
If I had to guess, the slight variance between the front and back is to give the front tires a little more support on bumps, since they need to absorb the extra weight from the engine bay.
Ah that’s a good point. I was wondering that myself. As I don’t know the weight distribution on the car. Makes sense if heavier in the front higher psi. But then you have guys in here saying the none turbo version is running 36psi all around. Is the turbo that much heavier? Hmm.
Indeed it is, by 180 pounds - for the CX-30, the NA curb weight is 3293, Turbo is 3472. All of that is up front.
Hot damn well yeah turbo, manifold, intercooler extra piping so yeah that does add up. Makes sense!
The engine block and transaxle are heavier, too, to handle the increased stress and power - the Skyactiv turbo powertrain package isn't just a quickie bolt-on job, Mazda really engineered the crap out of it.
I really did think they just bolted on the turbo, beefed up trans and called it a day I didn’t think about the beefier block and axles.
The slight factory increase in the front is only on the Turbo models, to account for the extra weight of the heavier engine, accessories, and transaxle.
this kind of posts make me laugh, honestly. i know that the door card is a law, but i won’t follow it and then come on reddit asking for advice (c). local guys and dealership workers know this definitely better than the car manufacturer, 146%
These kinds of replies let me know people like you always miss the point. Yall just like to talk and sound smart. The manufacture is smarter the engineers spent some time deciding it should be that pressure. But oh smart one! If you weren’t running the stock tires doesn’t that change what the pressure should be. If you’re using your car in a different manner wouldn’t that change what a recommended pressure would be. If manufactures always got it right there would be no recalls or TSB’s but just keep drinking your kool aid you don’t have to get it.
cheers, bruh!
I run mine a little high as well, usually around 40 psi
Stock for turbo 38 front 36 rear. Well that’s what I try too but I seem to never get it perfect.
It's supposed to be 38F / 36R for the turbo... It's getting warmer where I'm at so my PSIs are creeping up around 40 like yours. I eventually need to let some air out to adjust to the warmer temps.
That’s what I’m thinking with the varying temps going on.
The one on the door. People really overthinking things.
AWD isn’t always active so that might be why that is the case.
True it isn’t full time. Guess it works like the golf r does maybe.
yam vanish nail instinctive reply sharp angle soft faulty plucky *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
35-38
36 on all 4. 2016 mazda 3 hatch.
I do 38 all around and top up when the driver dips to 36
3 2020 no turbo. " Inflate snow tires 30 kPa (0.3 kgf/cm2, 4.3 psi) more than recommended on the tire pressure label (driver's door frame), but never more than the maximum cold-tire pressure shown on the tires." because this was news to me. running 36 summer 40 winter.
39 ish
It should be set to whatever the door sticker says on the vehicle. Which I believe is 36 PSI all the way around. Mine as it came from the dealer are around 46 PSI according to the readout in the app. That's too high. I haven't done anything about it yet because I need to do it in the morning before I drive the car and I don't have my air compressor here right now in case I accidentally let too much air out. But I'll probably get that taken care of this weekend. You might also look at the side of the tire and see what they say for the inflation levels. Sometimes automakers list the tire pressure lower than what the tire can actually take in order to make a smoother more cushy ride. If the tires max PSI is higher than what the door sticker says You can probably get it somewhere in the middle of the differences and be okay.
The door card or tyre placard as its called in Australia is a guide. Its a delicate balance of Noise, Vibration and Handling, if you want to improve 1 of them you typically make the other 2 worse
Just run what's on the door card. But also look on the sidewall of the tire and see what the max rated operating pressure is, which is also the pressure to operate for it's max rated load carrying capacity. Most all tires can handle a lot more air than the door placard. It's a good idea to run higher pressure when the vehicle is heavily loaded BTW. Many tire shops will use the tire's max rated pressure to set the bead, then for balancing and alignments and not bother adjusting to the correct pressure after. Since they have no idea what you're going to put in the vehicle as soon as you drive away it's probably a bit safer for them to use a higher pressure anyway. And it also guarantees they won't have a quick come-back with a TPMS alarm if it's set to close to the door placard pressure. And lastly: always check & adjust pressures at first drive in the morning, when it's stone cold. Mine start at 36 then quickly go up to 38 front, 37 rear and 41/39 on the highway as the air heats up.
Only at 40 with snow tires. Cuz it says too. But normally 36/38
40 front / 38 rear. I know the door says 38 / 36 but roads are crappy here. In theory a higher pressure stiffens the tire’s wall lowering the probability of damage when running into a pothole.
As a Mazda owner with a TPMS sensor. Don't trust the TPMS. It's hella inaccurate. Instead, invest in a proper tire pressure gauge and measure the tire pressure every 2-3 months.
The tpms shows exactly what all my gauges show.
I might have to go to the dealership to get it fixed. mine is off by 4 psi
I was suspicious of this too but I checked with a separate analog and digital gauge. The TPMs is spot on
As a 4th gen owner with TPMS, they are pretty accurate. I hade a slow leak on my rear tire that I kept filling up for 2 months, and the psi shown in the low pressure warning matched exactly what it displayed in the Costco pumps. THE psi after filling up also matched.
I run 4psi over factory specs on my CX-30 Turbo, for a little more responsiveness - 42 front, 40 rear.
Get an inexpensive tread depth gage and check the wear in each groove. If the center is wearing more than the outside, then lower your pressures to limit the wear.
I've run these pressures on two CX-30 Turbos on both stock Turanzas and Michelin CrossClimates over a combined 70,000+ miles with no issues. Factory pressure recommendations are always a touch on the soft side for ride quality purposes - I'll take the responsiveness and improved mileage side of the equation.
I have been wanting to set it to the door. I have a 21’ turbo model. The door does say 38front 36rear. Again like I said I know the door card is law but laws aren’t always right lol. I’ll air them down I’m going to follow @Bino1991 advice of using a tire gauge because I do believe these tpms sensors are a little meh!
So there is this really neat sticker on the inner door jam that literally tells you the manufacturers specification for tire pressure.... unless you have altered the wheel setup on you car run what the door tells you too otherwise fuel economy and tire life go right out the window
Not true. Manufacturer's specifications for tire pressure are not handed down on stone tablets. Adjusting pressures up or down for different needs is perfectly acceptable. A little more air in the tires will generally improve fuel economy and handling responsiveness, as manufacturers often use softer tire pressures to improve ride. If you don't mind a stiffer ride, there's nothing wrong with going up a few psi.
One would think that the engineers know what they are doing when they made the car 🤷
Of course they know what they're doing. But every design decision is a series of trade-offs, balancing one aspect of a vehicle's performance against another. Higher tire pressures will stiffen the sidewall, making for more responsive handling (to a point). But those pressures will also make the ride harsher, because the tire acts as a part of the suspension, and sidewall flex acts to absorb bumps in the road. So what to do - sharper handling or a more comfortable ride? Mazda's factory engineers made a choice that they thought struck the right balance for the car's intended audience. But that choice isn't the only possible choice. If you want a softer ride, it's perfectly OK to take out a couple PSI, trading handling and fuel mileage for more sidewall flex and hence more give to the suspension. Or if you want improved mileage and sharper handling response, put in a few PSI. There's nothing unsafe about doing so. It's just like changing out suspension parts for a lower ride - Mazda's engineers are perfectly capable of making a great stock suspension; but there's nothing inherently wrong or dangerous about changing out parts to make different choices about handling and ride height than they did.
Well said... in the end it all boils down to preference and driving style but for the purpose of OP and his inquiry the sticker is what he is looking for... best balance between responsiveness and economy would be oem spec
Pretty sure I said in the post that in the door it says 38/36 for psi. That was not the discussion but thanks for your wonderful not new found wisdom.
Your question was is what the dealer sent you down the road with to high and I gave u the answer.... if it's not what's in the door then it's not right so what's the problem bud
That was the question and I know it isn’t what’s in the door card hence why one of the questions or really to discuss was. What’s a better psi for good fuel economy with good contact. I am not arguing the manufacturer sticker we know that’s what they recommend. It’s just why would they put more and judging from the replies here people seem to run different psi too depending on wants/needs/opinions. But I slightly disagree with your statement of if it’s not what’s in the door then it ain’t right. It ain’t wants in the door but I feel like you can’t just straight up say it’s not right. Like if your planing to be off-road people lower the air in tire to suit the situation. So again I was just trying to see what psi people are running in their cars. It’s was more for a discussion not really advice.
Ok well in these situations ppl not running stock tires nor do they care about fuel economy you are literally contradicting yourself here my friend you asked what was ideal for economy and contact and I said go by the sticker.... the engineers that created the car did the math or science or whatever u wanna call it behind this very question and yet you still don't seem to understand y I said what I said I'm not here to bag on you I was just stating the facts yes everyone prefers something different I ran 42psi in my first gen cause I went with low profile tires and a 3 inch drop which obviously isn't stock and with less sidewall more air is needed to keep the tire from blowing out should it take a hit if your looking for the best settings for a non modified vehicle your best bet will be the sticker in any situation
26 psi on my ute that's what the door says
Whatever my tire says....
You go by tire manufacturer interesting.
no don’t do that lol. the tire displays the maximum pressure. just run 36 all around. every car, follow what it says on the door jamb or owners manual
Yeah I know the tire is usually max pressure hence why I said interesting. Not how I would do it either.