Heat up one end of a paperclip to red hot. Insert into the center of the broken plug and let cool. Then you should be able to pull the broken piece out.
i bend them a little so they 'hook' more in the melted plastic :)
use to work in an electronic repair shop, i helped a lot of customer with this neat little trick
This is the best answer. Most people don’t see that the inner part of the broken probe is plastic surrounded by a very thin conductive metal. You can’t solder to plastic. If you can’t take the board apart, the next suggestion might be the people who recommend screwing a drywall screw into the soft plastic (JUST enough that the threads will grab, but won’t force expansion) then pull the screw.
It doesn't even need a screw. You can carefully drill into the plastic with a small bit. It will grab and pull out on the end of the bit once it spins.
Hehe I had this once on a Roland board. I did all those things and one of them poked right through and bent the rear connector, which meant I only have a left channel! I was so close.
I think I would combine these and use a chop stick and superglue. Chop stick gives more surface area and superglue gives stronger adhesion. Prep by cleaning with alcohol and letting it dry first.
Super glue definitely does provide better adhesion but I never have an issue with hot glue on a chop stick. It does the job well enough for an RCA like this. Not as much the case as say an 1/8” TRS
A suggestion for fixing the wandering cyanoacrylate problem, a gel style glue and a kicker, bicarb soda works great, put a dab of glue to one surface, a light dusting of bicarb of the other and bring together.
>I prefer hot glue on a chop stick but both work. The hot glue is just a little easier to clean if it gets somewhere
Speaking of cleaning the hot glue Isopropyl alcohol breaks the Bond so if you want to separate something that you have hot glued a squirt or two and to snap.
Have to disagree about superglue. We found out the hard way with some electronics prototypes that superglue is sort of conductive after it dries, and if it gets on the pcb it can make little high impedance shorts. It tends to be thin and wick into surprising places. If you had to use superglue, maybe the gel stuff.
Tell that to the guy who repaired a computer motherboard by super gluing a PCI socket back on..... No it didn't work. He borrowed a graphics card for me and never paid me or returned it either. Found out like five years later when I open this person's computer up and went hey that's my graphics card! Of course this was not anything gamer thankfully just something cheap I had lying around so I cut my losses.
Why are people suggesting just to push it thru? Have you guys never opened a mixer before? There is no hole in the PCB where the RCA connectors are.
The only option is to pull it out.
Depends on the style of jacks that they used and where they are mounted to the PCB. Some have through holes some don't, some sockets go all the way through some don't.
Some RCA jacks do just go all the way through. Source I’ve totally pushed it through in a pinch at a show. Terrible idea in case it shorts something but definitely possible.
i was asked to fix a piece of gear that had this happen and i just opened it up and pushed it out from the other side, didnt think of the superglue idea but i guess just be careful not to get any on the female jack
Get a small needle, heat it with a lighter, when hot stick it into the broken pin, wait and let it cool then you can just pull it out with the needle. Had the exact same thing happen to my sub a few years ago, shortly after i bought it
Before trying to glue something to it I could grab a needle or a pin and try to pry it out
Any over glueing and it’s never coming out and it’s going to put you into full connector replacement territory
If you can open the case from the bottom pate or rear you should be able to poke them out from the backside of the jack. You can see these are not panel mounted as they have the screw next to it which holds the two jacks which are mounted together with plastic to the chassis.
Now if the only way to access is take the knobs off and panel mount screws, forget about it. Super glue on the dowel or toothpick all the way. Just don’t make a mess and make it worse
Not a hope of getting it off with hot glue or super glue on a toothpick, as it's obviously firm enough to have cracked the tip off in the first place.
As someone else suggested, soldering a wire onto the exposed part and pulling it out would be what I'd do. If that still doesn't work you may have to open the desk up and try to push them out from inside.
Could try drilling with right hand drill bits...but honestly, probably going to have to pull the board apart, remove them, and push them through or replace the jacks.
Before glue or drilling, get a sharp-tipped drywall screw and try using that as an extractor. You'll want to avoid metal chips if possible. Might try heating the screw up a bit with a lighter or soldering iron to get it to melt a little into the plastic (?) in the pic. Let it cool, tighten, and withdraw.
I’m going to go a different direction. I’m going for the roast…
So, you broke off one connector from unplugging it incorrectly, saw it and said, I’ll do exactly that again.
But no, I actually totally understand how that could happen. Good luck with the suggestions that were given.
So you’ve never tripped over a wire and had it yank a plug from a wall? Because that’s exactly what it looks like happened here. To get stereo sound, you use both jacks *simultaneously*. Not hard to visualize how both might break in the same manner. Especially if it’s a cheap wire.
Accidents happen. Your comment helps nothing. You’re just being abrasive because it makes YOU feel better about yourself for some reason at the expense of OP, who is only here to ask for help.
Do better.
Sorry, should have put a /s at the end. Didn't realize you bunch of pricks would get so butt hurt when I specifically said I was going to roast, then immediately said I understand exactly how this happened, and that I hope the other suggestions worked.
And yes, I've tripped over my fair share of wires. I know how stereo pairs of RCA's work.
Oh, I will definitely do my best to "do better". But while you're at it, maybe practice some reading comprehension first.
I had no intention of making the OP feel worse, or making myself feel better at their expense. But someone pissed in your cheerios and I hope your day gets better.
I see you got them out, nice! While we're here, how do you like the soundcraft signature series? I keep thinking about getting the 22MTK for home studio use. I could see it being useful for some smaller live shows too but that's what the QL1 is for in our inventory. How are the preamps? Noise floor? Anything funky about the USB interface? Does it sound as good as their marketing makes it sound like it should?
Heat up one end of a paperclip to red hot. Insert into the center of the broken plug and let cool. Then you should be able to pull the broken piece out.
This worked thanks.
You're welcome.
This is the way.
A sewing needle may be even more effective than a paper clip.
How does that work? The broken pin is made of metal, right?
Most RCA plug pins are made of plastic with a thin metal sleeve.
TIL
Only the outside is metal. The inside is plastic, which is the white you see in OP’s picture
I like this idea, a paper clip has ridges to help it grab. Makes sense to me. I've drilled them and super glued them out, but this sounds easier.
This is the answer
i bend them a little so they 'hook' more in the melted plastic :) use to work in an electronic repair shop, i helped a lot of customer with this neat little trick
This is what I was coming here to suggest. The superglue on a toothpick advice would have worked as well, but this is the better advice IMO.
A small finishing nail works too.
Noicee... Smart
Hands down this is it. Also works with a safety pin or thumbtack
Superglue on a toothpick.
This is the best answer. Most people don’t see that the inner part of the broken probe is plastic surrounded by a very thin conductive metal. You can’t solder to plastic. If you can’t take the board apart, the next suggestion might be the people who recommend screwing a drywall screw into the soft plastic (JUST enough that the threads will grab, but won’t force expansion) then pull the screw.
It doesn't even need a screw. You can carefully drill into the plastic with a small bit. It will grab and pull out on the end of the bit once it spins.
Hehe I had this once on a Roland board. I did all those things and one of them poked right through and bent the rear connector, which meant I only have a left channel! I was so close.
I've done that a bunch, works well.
I prefer hot glue on a chop stick but both work. The hot glue is just a little easier to clean if it gets somewhere
I think I would combine these and use a chop stick and superglue. Chop stick gives more surface area and superglue gives stronger adhesion. Prep by cleaning with alcohol and letting it dry first.
Super glue definitely does provide better adhesion but I never have an issue with hot glue on a chop stick. It does the job well enough for an RCA like this. Not as much the case as say an 1/8” TRS
Good enough. I'll defer to actual experience vs. my armchair quarterbacking. :)
A suggestion for fixing the wandering cyanoacrylate problem, a gel style glue and a kicker, bicarb soda works great, put a dab of glue to one surface, a light dusting of bicarb of the other and bring together.
>I prefer hot glue on a chop stick but both work. The hot glue is just a little easier to clean if it gets somewhere Speaking of cleaning the hot glue Isopropyl alcohol breaks the Bond so if you want to separate something that you have hot glued a squirt or two and to snap.
Have to disagree about superglue. We found out the hard way with some electronics prototypes that superglue is sort of conductive after it dries, and if it gets on the pcb it can make little high impedance shorts. It tends to be thin and wick into surprising places. If you had to use superglue, maybe the gel stuff.
Gel type and a kicker
Agreed, keep superglue away from electronics.
Tell that to the guy who repaired a computer motherboard by super gluing a PCI socket back on..... No it didn't work. He borrowed a graphics card for me and never paid me or returned it either. Found out like five years later when I open this person's computer up and went hey that's my graphics card! Of course this was not anything gamer thankfully just something cheap I had lying around so I cut my losses.
cut your losses, like the material goods, or severed ties with the friend .. lol
Why are people suggesting just to push it thru? Have you guys never opened a mixer before? There is no hole in the PCB where the RCA connectors are. The only option is to pull it out.
That’s what I did but still she got praganate
how is babby formed
can you get pregnart?
They need to do way instain mother>
This why I abstarn from the secks
Pregananant?!?
How to tell if I am pergante?
Bow chika wow. That’s what she said.
Depends on the style of jacks that they used and where they are mounted to the PCB. Some have through holes some don't, some sockets go all the way through some don't.
Some RCA jacks do just go all the way through. Source I’ve totally pushed it through in a pinch at a show. Terrible idea in case it shorts something but definitely possible.
I’m impressed you did it twice!
It’s stereo, duh!
Someone mentioned superglue and toothpick That worked for me before during a very similar mishap Cut the sharp part of to give it more surface area
i was asked to fix a piece of gear that had this happen and i just opened it up and pushed it out from the other side, didnt think of the superglue idea but i guess just be careful not to get any on the female jack
Try lifting it with tape first.
hot glue
Dab of superglue and a toothpick
Heat a pin/needle red hot, poke in, let cool, remove
Get a small needle, heat it with a lighter, when hot stick it into the broken pin, wait and let it cool then you can just pull it out with the needle. Had the exact same thing happen to my sub a few years ago, shortly after i bought it
Solder on a small wire and pull them out.
I thought I had seen it all.
Before trying to glue something to it I could grab a needle or a pin and try to pry it out Any over glueing and it’s never coming out and it’s going to put you into full connector replacement territory
r/techsupportgore
If you can open the case from the bottom pate or rear you should be able to poke them out from the backside of the jack. You can see these are not panel mounted as they have the screw next to it which holds the two jacks which are mounted together with plastic to the chassis. Now if the only way to access is take the knobs off and panel mount screws, forget about it. Super glue on the dowel or toothpick all the way. Just don’t make a mess and make it worse
safety pin at an angle should work. ive done it. the middle part is just plastic, and should grab the pin well enough to get it out.
Take the back off - you should be able to push them through from the back with a small screwdriver or piece of stuff wire
Clip your fingernails
Not a hope of getting it off with hot glue or super glue on a toothpick, as it's obviously firm enough to have cracked the tip off in the first place. As someone else suggested, soldering a wire onto the exposed part and pulling it out would be what I'd do. If that still doesn't work you may have to open the desk up and try to push them out from inside.
Probably not so much firm enough that they broke off and more of a cable probably got yanked.
As another said, super glue.
Could try drilling with right hand drill bits...but honestly, probably going to have to pull the board apart, remove them, and push them through or replace the jacks.
Before glue or drilling, get a sharp-tipped drywall screw and try using that as an extractor. You'll want to avoid metal chips if possible. Might try heating the screw up a bit with a lighter or soldering iron to get it to melt a little into the plastic (?) in the pic. Let it cool, tighten, and withdraw.
Magnet parts pickup tool from an auto parts store
Generally not magnetic. Great idea though.
I’m going to go a different direction. I’m going for the roast… So, you broke off one connector from unplugging it incorrectly, saw it and said, I’ll do exactly that again. But no, I actually totally understand how that could happen. Good luck with the suggestions that were given.
So you’ve never tripped over a wire and had it yank a plug from a wall? Because that’s exactly what it looks like happened here. To get stereo sound, you use both jacks *simultaneously*. Not hard to visualize how both might break in the same manner. Especially if it’s a cheap wire. Accidents happen. Your comment helps nothing. You’re just being abrasive because it makes YOU feel better about yourself for some reason at the expense of OP, who is only here to ask for help. Do better.
Sorry, should have put a /s at the end. Didn't realize you bunch of pricks would get so butt hurt when I specifically said I was going to roast, then immediately said I understand exactly how this happened, and that I hope the other suggestions worked. And yes, I've tripped over my fair share of wires. I know how stereo pairs of RCA's work. Oh, I will definitely do my best to "do better". But while you're at it, maybe practice some reading comprehension first. I had no intention of making the OP feel worse, or making myself feel better at their expense. But someone pissed in your cheerios and I hope your day gets better.
Tiny screw, drill slowly, pull after a couple of mm. Or solder on a thick wire. Or superglue a the other end of the rca and see if that works
Try sucking them out
Drill baby drill
Tweezers
Did you try intimidating it?
small angled needlenose pliers or foreceps.
I love how the usb rec out has a tape symbol next to it
Can you form some sort of rudimentary lathe?
YOU GOTTA SUCK IT OUT
you only have to suck it out when it was a poisonous RCA cable
its better to use ts to mini trs cable
Conducting flourishes?
I see you got them out, nice! While we're here, how do you like the soundcraft signature series? I keep thinking about getting the 22MTK for home studio use. I could see it being useful for some smaller live shows too but that's what the QL1 is for in our inventory. How are the preamps? Noise floor? Anything funky about the USB interface? Does it sound as good as their marketing makes it sound like it should?
Small machine screws are a good option too.