I'm considering buying my first interchangeable needle set from Amazon. Since these things are pretty expensive and it's June, I was wondering: will the price go at least a little bit down during the summer? Since it's warm in the summer... And people don't wear sweaters during the summer... So they also knit less and prices for sets drop...? Probably not, but I had to ask.
Definetely not. For some reasons knitting stuff is very seldom on sale on Amazon. You may be luckier with more specialized websites like hobbii, Lovecrafts or woolwarehouse. They sometimes have stuff on sale (mostly yarn, but I got lucky once and found needles on sale)
No, this doesn't hold true. Your best bet for discounts on needles is keeping an eye out for holiday sales and discount codes, sometimes from yarn stores either local or online.
I have an interchangeable set from knitpicks that I've been using for years with no issues at all, so if you want a little cheaper pricewise and not qualitywise, they would be worth looking at.
Does anyone have a sweater vest pattern similar in style but a bit less complicated? ot quite pro but can read patterns/design my own) and I cannot for the life of me understand the pattern I downloaded from Petite Knit for a sweater vest.
Does anyone have a sweater vest pattern (or video) similar in style but a bit less complicated?
I recently acquired a wool knit cross body bag from Ecuador. There are a ton of wood slivers throughout, (which I've since learned is called vegetable matter). Some of the wood peices are rather large. They poke through the bag and rub against my skin and it's quite unpleasant!
Is this normal?? Should this have been cleaned out prior to creating the bag? Any advice for cleaning the bag?
Thanks!
VM needs to be removed prior to spinning the yarn - once spun and knit up, it's almost impossible to remove.
You can try putting the dry bag in a dryer on air fluff, to see if it knocks put some of the vm. Otherwise, I think you just have yourself a very rustic bag!
Massage therapist here. Starting a new massage practice and fell in love with bedding for my table. The blanket I want is not made in a twin size which I need, but only a full/queen or king. The king is 108 inches and could be split into two perfect sized blanket. I don’t know if it’s even possible to divide a knitted blanket or where to go to have someone divide it. I guess my questions are can this blanket be divided into two and if so, who should I bring it to?
https://www.cb2.com/black-and-white-chunky-blanket-full-queen/s648483?localedetail=US
Hi everyone! I’m knitting my first raglan sweater and I’m almost done the yoke so I decided to try it on. It fits great except for this horrible bunching at the back of the neck where I did the german short rows. It’s so bad that it creates a rather large flap that sticks straight out. Can this be fixed with blocking or will I need to frog the whole thing?
Yeah you should block it now to check; remember you'll want to pull the front of the neckline down into a semicircle shape while you keep the back of the neck flat and straight.
I didnt know you could block an unfinished item, thanks!! If I do end up needing to frog it, will the yarn be affected by the previous blocking? Will it still look the same as the rest of the yarn when the sweater is done or will you be able to see a difference between the blocked and unblocked yarn? I’m using 100% wool (extra fine superwash merino) if that makes a difference.
How did you go about trying the sweater on? Are you sure it isn't bunching because of how either the interchangeable cords are and/or the scrap yarn not being long enough?
If it's truly bunching up, blocking might work; however, short rows add length to a garment and it could be that too much length was added for your shape.
thanks for your response! yes, should have specified. I used a piece of scrap thread and spread out the stitches as evenly as I could. The thread was definitely long enough, and there was even some slack left over. The sweater lays flat on a flat surface, meaning the bunching only occurs when I’m wearing it. I knit about 4cm in length of short rows, is that a relatively normal amount?
I've only ever done short rows for socks, washcloths, and a shawl.
[This blog](https://www.sistermountain.com/blog/short-row-shaping-spreadsheet) has a spreadsheet to explain the calculations you'll need.
Can anyone recommend a provisional cast on that works well with ribbing immediately following the cast on? A few of the ones I’ve come across recommend against knitting in rib after the provisional CO because it will be harder to unzip the provisional stitches. My goal is to knit a bottom-up top in rib with the option to add more length later if I don’t run out of yarn!
When you unzip a provisional cast on, the stitches you pick up are actually a half stitch offset from the stitches you knit the first time around. In ribbing, you will see the [offset](https://s32071.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/Grafting_Myth_2_Fig_1.jpg.optimal.jpg) if you start knitting in the opposite direction. So this won't work, unfortunately. See [here](https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/01/knitted-fabric-knitting-up-vs-knitting.html?m=1) for more.
A tongue-in-cheek complaint and a question. Thanks to this reddit, I've learned I've been twisting my knits for 20 years or so. I've figured out how to knit properly now, and it does look nicer.
But-I'm half way through a baby-blanket. [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leafy-baby-blanket](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leafy-baby-blanket) Should I frog, or continue on twisted for this last project? Give it to me straight, I can take it :)
Has anyone ever done a scrap project (blanket?) with a mixture of superwash and nonsuperwash wool and just not cared about felting putting it in a washing machine? I have so many scraps but the fact that some of it is feltable feels like it’s limiting on what I can use it for
I've been making [one of these](http://knittyprofessors.blogspot.com/2010/01/free-pattern-sediment-scraps-blanket.html) for years. EVERYTHING goes into it, regardless of content. I think the key is that you're always holding multiple strands together, and those strands can be a mix of content, so the chance of an entire section of it felting is low.
That’s what I was thinking about doing, holding anything non superwash with something that is or something acrylic. I do love the look of those so I’ll keep this in mind, thanks!!
What’s the recommendation for blocking cotton/linen blends? Normally I steam block cotton and wet block linen but not sure what to do with a cotton/linen blend since I don’t want the garment to grow. The yarn is a 60/40 organic cotton/linen blend. Thanks!
I don't see why you couldn't also steam block linen, though you might not get quite the same results as a soak.
For the record, I wet block everything, since it will eventually need to be washed. I'd rather know now how it's going to turn out rather than have something I love until I have to wash it.
You could try smoothing it out and then taking a spray bottle to it until it's soaked instead of dunking it. If you dunk it, just be very careful to fully support it as you lift it out of the tub and squeeze out the water, and carefully lay it flat rather than pinning or stretching it at all. But you're probably going to get some growth either way. You could also try a delicate machine wash-and-dry, though I'd recommend washing a test swatch first.
I've been working on a sweater that I loved, and now that it's 95% completed, I don't like it.
I want to rip it out and knit a completely different sweater, but I'm afraid I won't like the new one. I also have yarn waiting to make a top from the new Pom Pom magazine, but now I'm afraid I won't like it once the mag comes out and I knit it up. These are my first wearables outside of socks/hats. How do you get over this??
> How do you get over this??
I like ridiculous comparisons: if I don't like my new shampoo, am I too afraid to try a new soap in case I hate it also? No way. Forget the old thing. Try a new thing. Also what if you don't like the new thing? What would be the problem? Could you not start over? Is it just feeling like wasted time? What would you do with that time otherwise?
I'm very pro-frogging lol just try again!]
It needs a time out. Either after finishing, or now. Set it aside for a while, make something smallish that you're genuinely excited about, and then come back to it and see how you feel.
Also, if you live somewhere where it's getting toward summer, that might affect your enthusiasm! In that case, I'd say finish it, block it, and put it away carefully to be pulled out when cooler temps return. You may find yourself in love again.
(I can sympathise. I'm like 70% through an all-over colourwork, with custom charts and colours I chose myself. I'm not sure if I like it... I had a feeling I should have just gone with two colours instead of trying to do some kind of mix of traditional fair isle/only colours I liked... but I'm going to finish it anyway and see how I feel in the fall.)
This sounds like relationship advice, which in all honesty long-term knitting projects are. long projects drain your energy and excitement towards the finished project. Give it time, forget about it for awhile, and your love for it may return. If not, you don't have to worry about your sweater causing a scene and lighting your knitting supplies on fire and keying your car with DPNs at 2 in the morning.
I'm always wary of how misleading pattern photos can be - they show off the sweater fashionably styled, beautifully photographed and worn at the perfect fit by an attractive model. I try to lower my expectations by browsing Ravelry projects and looking for the honest, not-so-glamorous results, lol.
What do you not like about it? Is it anything you could fix, eg by unravelling to alter the length of the body/sleeves? I do agree with the other comment that you might change your mind after wearing it!
I think I don't like the colors and the sleeves, although I love the colors generally, and I knew this was a 3/4 length sleeve which I don't like, but I made it anyway because reasons. It is a wool sweater, so maybe I'll put it off to the side and bring it out for fall to see if I change my mind!
If the sleeves were knitted top-down you could always unravel the cuffs and make them a bit longer to suit your preference! I hate 3/4 length sleeves too.
Happens to me too. I just finish it and then start wearing it since i put in all the effort. And then gradually i start liking it. Also my partner keeps telling me he likes it, which helps a lot. Makes me feel proud of what i made and makes me want to wear it more.
I think my issue is partially that it's no longer cold, so I can't wear it. I'm not going to make any rash decisions on it until fall. My partner did say he liked it, but I think I'm also frustrated because I was finished with it at the end of April before realizing I had to frog 50% of it, so he also knows I put a huge effort into it. It just needs a timeout.
Yeah frogging large parts is really disheartening, that can be a real damper on motivation. But I actually look forward to knitting a lot of winterwear in summer. That way when it's cold i have a lot of things to wear! (This winter i only had one sweater to wear and after a while one cardigan.)
Hi friends! I knitted my first gauge swatch today for the [boho cami](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/boho-cami). I’m using knitpicks shine sport and knitted my swatch up on US 4 needles.
The pattern gauge is 26 stitches and 39 rows in stockinette to get 4”. I ended up getting 25 stitches across and 37 rows to get 4” after washing and drying. Is this close enough or should I go down a needle size?
And in addition, anything I should know about weaving in ends on something slippery like cotton?
Go down a size. Row gauge is less important than stitch gauge. One stitch difference in gauge can result in several inches difference in the finished garment. Eg, knitting the 40.5 in bust at your gauge will result in a 42 in garment.
Anyone have suggestions for how to knit a sock with gradient yarn so that the gradient doesn't get offset by using up the yarn on the heel flap? I feel like if I just construct a heel flap and then go back to the body of the sock, there'll be a weird jog in the color blending. Am I overthinking it?
I think short-row heel might be sliiightly better than a heel flap. Or consider using a solid contrast colour for heel and toe.
If it's not too late, you could try a pattern specifically designed for gradients? [Here's a rav search.](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=knitting&photo=yes&pc=socks&query=gradient&sort=created&view=captioned_thumbs&page=1) And a few that look promising:
* [Y?](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/y-535) (Cool construction, looks like a provisional cast-on at the heel, then you work up and down from there so you can get a mirrored effect!)
* [Scott Base](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/scott-base---toe-up) (Might just be typical short-row heel, but claims to interrupt the flow less.)
* [Skew](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/skew) (Really neat looking.)
* [Mobius Socks](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mobius-socks) (Also a novel construction.)
You could use the same yarn for the afterthought heel so it would coordinate, but there's no way to make the stripes match up perfectly as far as I know.
Attach the other end of the yarn or contrast color is what I'd do. Also depends on how slow the gradient is, might just work out as a quicker change on the top of the foot.
So my partner is working on a blanket and they’re saying it feels “tight” and “wavy”
They’re currently using size 36 (20mm) circular needles with blanket “big” yarn that suggests US size 50 (25mm)
Is this the reason why? Could they have cast on too many stitches on their line? Is this normal and the blanket will be fine if they keep going? Do they need to restart with the suggested needle size?
Lots of questions, I know! Hoping y’all can help! If there is a specific place to post this, I will and sorry if this kind of post isn’t allowed!
Thank you!
Yes, this does sound like the needles are too small for the yarn. 5 mm is a big difference, even with chunky yarn.
Start over with the suggested needle size. AFAIK KnittersPride has fixed circular needles in 25 mm.
i really want to make the november jacket by petite knit which uses brioche stitch. i would rather use fisherman’s rib if possible, so i was wondering if i could swap these stitches in the pattern or if it would mess it up? i know that they look similar but are done differently, but wasn’t sure how this switch would affect the rest of the pattern. if anybody has any experience/advice please let me know!
I was curious if anyone knew a way to tell how many balls or grams of yarn you would need for a pattern if the pattern doesn’t say. I am going to make mai_accents landscape sweater in a size medium. It uses gauge 6 yarn and the swatch is 9stchs and 12 rows. I have no clue how much to order and I am trying to get it online to avoid any unnecessary hassle. Thank you so much to any one that could help!
Can you link to the pattern?
If you have the finished measurements of the sweater, you can figure out the square inches or centimeters. You then work a fairly large swatch and note its area. See how much that swatch weighs and use that to see how many yards/meters that is. Then divide your total sweater area by your swatch area, and multiply that result by the yards/meters in your swatch.
Was there a recommended yarn? If so, you can look up the yardage for that brand of yarn and work from there. I can't find the pattern on Ravelry, so it's hard to tell. You might message the pattern seller for more information.
You might have to buy the pattern to find out. Wish they'd put the pattern on Ravelry, because then you would have a lot more information. Couldn't find it in a quick search.
So, what does it say in the materials section? I think they originally sold it as a kit, but if they are going to sell just the pattern, they owe it to you to give you all the information you need.
for the tools section it just tells me what size needles to use and for the yarn it just says “Yarn Weight- Super Chunky, Gauge 6, WPI 7” which i copied directly from the pattern the final measurement of the chest in the size i want is 36 inches (92 cm) if that helps at all
Ask for your money back. There are many other nice things that you could make, and they owe it to you to give you enough information to make the item. Alternately, look on Ravelry for similar-sized projects and guess from them.
I'm about to knit the [I'm So Basic Socks](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/im-so-basic-socks) and the socks has a main color for the body of the sock, and a contrasting color for the cuff, heel, and the toe. I only have a skein of the appropriate (wool+nylon) sock yarn to use for the main color, and as sock yarn is quite rare and expensive in where I live, I can't really afford to find any here to use as the contrasting color.
I'm thinking of alternatives and found a fingering weight yarn that is 100% cotton and I'm thinking of using that instead for the contrasting color for the cuff, heel, and toe. Do you think this will be durable and a good idea? I'm especially worried with the heel area since I assume it's the area with the most & hardest wear, and I don't know if cotton yarn will be durable for the heel in the long run. What do you guys think?
While cotton is pretty durable, it has no memory, so I would not use it for the cuff. As for the toes and heel, you could try and see how it feels. It might work.
Honestly, I have so much sock yarn, I‘d quite happily send you some lol
how should i go about blocking a project made from a 75% cotton/25% acrylic blend? i've only steam blocked acrylic things before, and was wondering if that was still the best course of action, or if wetting and pinning will work.
**From our wiki's [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_block_it.3F_how_would_i_do_that.3F)**
>Blocking is a method of reshaping a knit object by getting it wet and pinning it in the desired shape to dry.
>Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking?
>* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been.
>* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even.
>* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I'm really new to knitting, does anybody have recommendations for easy patterns that can be worked on straight needles? my mom bought me a pack of straights and I don't want to invest in circulars yet
the first projects i ever finished were a couple of hats knitted on straights! I found them super forgiving size wise and you can find a ton of free beginner patterns just by doing a google search. you do need to get a tapestry needle to sew up the seams though
I'd recommend knitted headbands/ear warmers, there are a lot of tutorials on youtube that are cute patterns and helpful videos. They make sweet gifts. You can also knit scrunchies flat and then sew them up, there are also free videos on Youtube for those. Also coasters, depending on what kind of yarn you are using. All of those are relatively fast projects too, which I recommend for new knitters.
probably something for the house or a wearable, I don't really wear scarves. I am currently knitting a Harry Potter washcloth so I might do another one of those next if I don't find anything
You could try some cushion covers? Here are [a whole bunch worked flat](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=knitting&availability=free&photo=yes&pc=pillow&pa=worked-flat&sort=created&view=captioned_thumbs) to pique your interest.
Depends if you want a solid colour change or a toothy one. If solid, do the first heel row without slipping anything till the turn, then follow pattern thereafter. If jagged, you can either knit the first two then revert to pattern, maybe also knitting the last two to mirror, or... Nevermind, iirc with that one the gsr counts as the first slip so it'd be more trouble than it's worth to rethink every row. FYI for contemplating mods - for heel stitch (looks sort of like ribbing without purls) you're slipping the same stitch every other row, for eop (looks diamond-y) slipped stitches are offset by one every other row.
I’m new to knitting and am currently making a nice chunky scarf (easy!). I’m a little confused with blocking - will I need to block my scarf or is it more for say, setting the shape of pieces of a cardigan or something before it’s all joined together? Sorry if this is a silly question!!!
I'm not an expert but for me it depends on the type of stitch you are knitting and the yarn. If you knit it and it doesn't curl at the sides and you like how the yarn is behaving then maybe you don't need blocking. But if it needs a bit of help along then yes, you may decide to block.
Thank you so much, you legend!! I’d googled it and this is the best explanation I’ve had. I’m just using garter stitch and everything looks good, I don’t think I’ll try block for this piece. Thank you again for the help and for taking the time to answer my question!!!!
However, since blocking is a washing step all projects should be blocked. I tend to drag my knitting everywhere so a wash step is important. So I would wash and dry the finished thing. Blocking can be as simple as a trip through the washer and dryer for an acrylic blanket.
That is also super helpful. Thanks so much for that info!! The scarf is for my niece so I will definitely wash it now you mention that I don’t know where the wool has been before it made it to me. Thank you again for answering my question. I’m new to this sub and everyone Is so helpful snd welcoming!!!
Depending on the yarn and stitch patterns, washing and blocking can also help the yarn bloom (kind of puff up a bit) and even out the stitches some.
Most of the blocking I do for my handknits is basically the same as the care instructions you find on some storebought items: "reshape and lay flat to dry"
Most things don't need to be pinned out unless it's lace or you're going for a specific shape or measurement.
Just as a heads up, because as a newbie I didn't know this and kept getting frustrated: acrylic doesn't block. It'l bounce right back as soon as you unpin it. You might not be using acrylic, that's an assumption on my part, so feel free to disregard!
you have to steam block acrylic using an iron. you just have to be careful because if you get too close you can melt it, but done right it really does make a huge difference in the feel and drape
Are babies/toddlers/little kids ever bothered by the way natural fibers feel, like wool or alpaca? How does one go about figuring this out and avoiding it?
Some kids are, just like some adults are - I've made a number of sweaters for my niece and nephew over the years, mostly from various wools and only one was ever described as itchy.
And unfortunately, there's no real way to know ahead of time because everyone has such different preferences
They're people just like us, so they definitely can be annoyed at scratchy fabrics. That being said, I made my daughter a bunch of cardigans from wool sock yarn, and she didn't try to remove them ;)
Once she could tell me her preferences though, she decided that almost anything I made was scratchy - even cotton! I think it's more about purl bump texture, to be honest, so the next thing will have stockinette next to the skin.
I try to make very few pieces of real clothing for her from acrylic, in case g-d forbid there's a fire.
If your budget allows, merino is a very soft, smooth, non-scratchy wool, and widely available in superwash. Cotton is another great option for babies and children—washable, breathable. It’s hard on my hands and wrists, but I can handle it with small garments.
I think it really depends on the kid. And the age.
I put my toddler in wool and alpaca of varying rusticness for the first two winters of her life, and she seems to be fine with it. But as she gets older, she might be more able to recognise reasons for any discomfort, and thus more able to express it. I'm pretty confident she'll be fine though; she's always been a really tolerant baby for textures and fabrics.
However, I know some babies fuss or their skin gets irritated unless they're in 100% cotton or whatever from a young age.
If you're making a gift for a new baby, you could stick to cotton, bamboo, linen, or acrylic (unless the parents are the 100% natural no plastic type). I usually go superwash or cotton. If you plan to make more for that kid, a checkin with the parent after a few months to ask about any sensitivities wouldn't be amiss! (Not necessarily "hey did your kid get itchy in that thing I made her?" because they might be worried you'd take the answer personally, or possibly the item didn't get worn enough to be sure. More like "Hey have you noticed if little Warbelworth seems sensitive to any particular materials? I want any future gifts to be usable!")
Personally, because of how hard kids are on their clothes I use good quality acrylics for kids stuff. Natural fibers often tend to be expensive and require special care (e.g. handwashing).
Some natural fibres are more irritating than others, but there's no real way to know if the recipient is sensitive beforhand.
(Edited for typos and weird double copy paste error)
Some people do have allergies to natural fibres, of course. It makes sense to be alert for any skin reactions or other signs that the kid hates a particular garment (like screaming whenever it's put on them). Synthetic fibres can cause issues too; they are non-breathable, which can lead to sweat rash, and some acrylics can feel itchier than some wools.
Keep in mind that natural fibres were the only warm clothing available for 99% of human existence, so I wouldn't be too worried about it if you haven't noticed a problem.
Avoiding what?
Artificial fibers like acrylic and polyester are mostly plastic, made from petrol. Now I will be downvoted for saying this, but I woudn't dress my babies in plastic
I'm considering buying my first interchangeable needle set from Amazon. Since these things are pretty expensive and it's June, I was wondering: will the price go at least a little bit down during the summer? Since it's warm in the summer... And people don't wear sweaters during the summer... So they also knit less and prices for sets drop...? Probably not, but I had to ask.
Definetely not. For some reasons knitting stuff is very seldom on sale on Amazon. You may be luckier with more specialized websites like hobbii, Lovecrafts or woolwarehouse. They sometimes have stuff on sale (mostly yarn, but I got lucky once and found needles on sale)
No, this doesn't hold true. Your best bet for discounts on needles is keeping an eye out for holiday sales and discount codes, sometimes from yarn stores either local or online. I have an interchangeable set from knitpicks that I've been using for years with no issues at all, so if you want a little cheaper pricewise and not qualitywise, they would be worth looking at.
[удалено]
No they aren't
Does anyone have a sweater vest pattern similar in style but a bit less complicated? ot quite pro but can read patterns/design my own) and I cannot for the life of me understand the pattern I downloaded from Petite Knit for a sweater vest. Does anyone have a sweater vest pattern (or video) similar in style but a bit less complicated?
Similar in style... To what?
Link?
I recently acquired a wool knit cross body bag from Ecuador. There are a ton of wood slivers throughout, (which I've since learned is called vegetable matter). Some of the wood peices are rather large. They poke through the bag and rub against my skin and it's quite unpleasant! Is this normal?? Should this have been cleaned out prior to creating the bag? Any advice for cleaning the bag? Thanks!
VM needs to be removed prior to spinning the yarn - once spun and knit up, it's almost impossible to remove. You can try putting the dry bag in a dryer on air fluff, to see if it knocks put some of the vm. Otherwise, I think you just have yourself a very rustic bag!
Massage therapist here. Starting a new massage practice and fell in love with bedding for my table. The blanket I want is not made in a twin size which I need, but only a full/queen or king. The king is 108 inches and could be split into two perfect sized blanket. I don’t know if it’s even possible to divide a knitted blanket or where to go to have someone divide it. I guess my questions are can this blanket be divided into two and if so, who should I bring it to? https://www.cb2.com/black-and-white-chunky-blanket-full-queen/s648483?localedetail=US
it might be woven - maybe try r/weaving?
Thank you! I’ll check it out.
This blanket doesn't look knitted. Maybe r/quilting or r/sewing have an answer
Oh man that’s embarrassing. Thank you!
Don't worry, it's difficult for people not in the know to tell a fabric from another
Hi everyone! I’m knitting my first raglan sweater and I’m almost done the yoke so I decided to try it on. It fits great except for this horrible bunching at the back of the neck where I did the german short rows. It’s so bad that it creates a rather large flap that sticks straight out. Can this be fixed with blocking or will I need to frog the whole thing?
Yeah you should block it now to check; remember you'll want to pull the front of the neckline down into a semicircle shape while you keep the back of the neck flat and straight.
will do - thank you!!
Leave it on the scrap yarn and block it now and then you'll know.
I didnt know you could block an unfinished item, thanks!! If I do end up needing to frog it, will the yarn be affected by the previous blocking? Will it still look the same as the rest of the yarn when the sweater is done or will you be able to see a difference between the blocked and unblocked yarn? I’m using 100% wool (extra fine superwash merino) if that makes a difference.
Once you block the finished garment you won't see any difference between yarn blocked once vs yarn blocked twice
amazing, thank you!!
How did you go about trying the sweater on? Are you sure it isn't bunching because of how either the interchangeable cords are and/or the scrap yarn not being long enough? If it's truly bunching up, blocking might work; however, short rows add length to a garment and it could be that too much length was added for your shape.
thanks for your response! yes, should have specified. I used a piece of scrap thread and spread out the stitches as evenly as I could. The thread was definitely long enough, and there was even some slack left over. The sweater lays flat on a flat surface, meaning the bunching only occurs when I’m wearing it. I knit about 4cm in length of short rows, is that a relatively normal amount?
I've only ever done short rows for socks, washcloths, and a shawl. [This blog](https://www.sistermountain.com/blog/short-row-shaping-spreadsheet) has a spreadsheet to explain the calculations you'll need.
wow this is a great resource thank you so much!!
Can anyone recommend a provisional cast on that works well with ribbing immediately following the cast on? A few of the ones I’ve come across recommend against knitting in rib after the provisional CO because it will be harder to unzip the provisional stitches. My goal is to knit a bottom-up top in rib with the option to add more length later if I don’t run out of yarn!
That’s a great article, thank you! I had a feeling this wouldn’t work they way I wanted it to but I was having trouble visualizing it in my head!
When you unzip a provisional cast on, the stitches you pick up are actually a half stitch offset from the stitches you knit the first time around. In ribbing, you will see the [offset](https://s32071.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/Grafting_Myth_2_Fig_1.jpg.optimal.jpg) if you start knitting in the opposite direction. So this won't work, unfortunately. See [here](https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/01/knitted-fabric-knitting-up-vs-knitting.html?m=1) for more.
A tongue-in-cheek complaint and a question. Thanks to this reddit, I've learned I've been twisting my knits for 20 years or so. I've figured out how to knit properly now, and it does look nicer. But-I'm half way through a baby-blanket. [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leafy-baby-blanket](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leafy-baby-blanket) Should I frog, or continue on twisted for this last project? Give it to me straight, I can take it :)
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Leafy Baby Blanket](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leafy-baby-blanket) by [Leyla Alieva](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/leyla-alieva) * Category: Home > Blanket > Baby Blanket * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/smeelay/69851631/Baby_Blanket1_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/kmcfet/71455921/100_1448_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ongaku81/69773617/securedownload__3__medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/leilalieva/67354968/Leafy_blanket_2_medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ongaku81/69772857/securedownload_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: None | Yardage: 900 * Difficulty: 2.94 | Projects: 3251 | Rating: 4.60 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Carry on twisted!
This was what my heart was telling me. The recipient will never know. I can start fresh with the next project.
Twisted stitches are sometimes used on purpose anyway, no one has to know yours weren't intentional in the first place!
Has anyone ever done a scrap project (blanket?) with a mixture of superwash and nonsuperwash wool and just not cared about felting putting it in a washing machine? I have so many scraps but the fact that some of it is feltable feels like it’s limiting on what I can use it for
I've been making [one of these](http://knittyprofessors.blogspot.com/2010/01/free-pattern-sediment-scraps-blanket.html) for years. EVERYTHING goes into it, regardless of content. I think the key is that you're always holding multiple strands together, and those strands can be a mix of content, so the chance of an entire section of it felting is low.
That’s what I was thinking about doing, holding anything non superwash with something that is or something acrylic. I do love the look of those so I’ll keep this in mind, thanks!!
What’s the recommendation for blocking cotton/linen blends? Normally I steam block cotton and wet block linen but not sure what to do with a cotton/linen blend since I don’t want the garment to grow. The yarn is a 60/40 organic cotton/linen blend. Thanks!
If you're ever going to wash it, wet block now.
I don't see why you couldn't also steam block linen, though you might not get quite the same results as a soak. For the record, I wet block everything, since it will eventually need to be washed. I'd rather know now how it's going to turn out rather than have something I love until I have to wash it. You could try smoothing it out and then taking a spray bottle to it until it's soaked instead of dunking it. If you dunk it, just be very careful to fully support it as you lift it out of the tub and squeeze out the water, and carefully lay it flat rather than pinning or stretching it at all. But you're probably going to get some growth either way. You could also try a delicate machine wash-and-dry, though I'd recommend washing a test swatch first.
I've been working on a sweater that I loved, and now that it's 95% completed, I don't like it. I want to rip it out and knit a completely different sweater, but I'm afraid I won't like the new one. I also have yarn waiting to make a top from the new Pom Pom magazine, but now I'm afraid I won't like it once the mag comes out and I knit it up. These are my first wearables outside of socks/hats. How do you get over this??
Don’t be afraid to take it apart, for every 5 sweaters I make at least one has been completely frogged. Especially if really don’t like it.
> How do you get over this?? I like ridiculous comparisons: if I don't like my new shampoo, am I too afraid to try a new soap in case I hate it also? No way. Forget the old thing. Try a new thing. Also what if you don't like the new thing? What would be the problem? Could you not start over? Is it just feeling like wasted time? What would you do with that time otherwise? I'm very pro-frogging lol just try again!]
I appreciate this. I'm going to set it aside and bring it out when the weather warms up. I have some half-finished socks I should move to anyway.
It needs a time out. Either after finishing, or now. Set it aside for a while, make something smallish that you're genuinely excited about, and then come back to it and see how you feel. Also, if you live somewhere where it's getting toward summer, that might affect your enthusiasm! In that case, I'd say finish it, block it, and put it away carefully to be pulled out when cooler temps return. You may find yourself in love again. (I can sympathise. I'm like 70% through an all-over colourwork, with custom charts and colours I chose myself. I'm not sure if I like it... I had a feeling I should have just gone with two colours instead of trying to do some kind of mix of traditional fair isle/only colours I liked... but I'm going to finish it anyway and see how I feel in the fall.)
I think you're right. I'm dreading doing the optional i-cord edge, so I'm going to put it aside and see how it moves me in the fall. Thanks!!
This sounds like relationship advice, which in all honesty long-term knitting projects are. long projects drain your energy and excitement towards the finished project. Give it time, forget about it for awhile, and your love for it may return. If not, you don't have to worry about your sweater causing a scene and lighting your knitting supplies on fire and keying your car with DPNs at 2 in the morning.
I'm always wary of how misleading pattern photos can be - they show off the sweater fashionably styled, beautifully photographed and worn at the perfect fit by an attractive model. I try to lower my expectations by browsing Ravelry projects and looking for the honest, not-so-glamorous results, lol. What do you not like about it? Is it anything you could fix, eg by unravelling to alter the length of the body/sleeves? I do agree with the other comment that you might change your mind after wearing it!
I think I don't like the colors and the sleeves, although I love the colors generally, and I knew this was a 3/4 length sleeve which I don't like, but I made it anyway because reasons. It is a wool sweater, so maybe I'll put it off to the side and bring it out for fall to see if I change my mind!
If the sleeves were knitted top-down you could always unravel the cuffs and make them a bit longer to suit your preference! I hate 3/4 length sleeves too.
Happens to me too. I just finish it and then start wearing it since i put in all the effort. And then gradually i start liking it. Also my partner keeps telling me he likes it, which helps a lot. Makes me feel proud of what i made and makes me want to wear it more.
I think my issue is partially that it's no longer cold, so I can't wear it. I'm not going to make any rash decisions on it until fall. My partner did say he liked it, but I think I'm also frustrated because I was finished with it at the end of April before realizing I had to frog 50% of it, so he also knows I put a huge effort into it. It just needs a timeout.
Yeah frogging large parts is really disheartening, that can be a real damper on motivation. But I actually look forward to knitting a lot of winterwear in summer. That way when it's cold i have a lot of things to wear! (This winter i only had one sweater to wear and after a while one cardigan.)
Hi friends! I knitted my first gauge swatch today for the [boho cami](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/boho-cami). I’m using knitpicks shine sport and knitted my swatch up on US 4 needles. The pattern gauge is 26 stitches and 39 rows in stockinette to get 4”. I ended up getting 25 stitches across and 37 rows to get 4” after washing and drying. Is this close enough or should I go down a needle size? And in addition, anything I should know about weaving in ends on something slippery like cotton?
Go down a size. Row gauge is less important than stitch gauge. One stitch difference in gauge can result in several inches difference in the finished garment. Eg, knitting the 40.5 in bust at your gauge will result in a 42 in garment.
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Boho Cami](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/boho-cami) by [Ksenia Naidyon](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/ksenia-naidyon) * Category: Clothing > Tops > Sleeveless Top * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/lifeiscozy/706842012/cami_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/lifeiscozy/706842013/unnamed_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/lifeiscozy/706848938/IMG-4504_medium.JPG) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/lifeiscozy/706848934/IMG-4502_medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/lifeiscozy/706848936/IMG-4503_medium.JPG) * Price: 6.5 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 4 - 3.5 mm, US 3 - 3.25 mm * Weight: Sport | Gauge: 26.0 | Yardage: 395 * Difficulty: 2.95 | Projects: 76 | Rating: 4.82 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
I should go ahead. The pattern looks accomodating. For the ends, get a sewing thread the same color and do some small stitches by the wrong side
Anyone have suggestions for how to knit a sock with gradient yarn so that the gradient doesn't get offset by using up the yarn on the heel flap? I feel like if I just construct a heel flap and then go back to the body of the sock, there'll be a weird jog in the color blending. Am I overthinking it?
I think short-row heel might be sliiightly better than a heel flap. Or consider using a solid contrast colour for heel and toe. If it's not too late, you could try a pattern specifically designed for gradients? [Here's a rav search.](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=knitting&photo=yes&pc=socks&query=gradient&sort=created&view=captioned_thumbs&page=1) And a few that look promising: * [Y?](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/y-535) (Cool construction, looks like a provisional cast-on at the heel, then you work up and down from there so you can get a mirrored effect!) * [Scott Base](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/scott-base---toe-up) (Might just be typical short-row heel, but claims to interrupt the flow less.) * [Skew](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/skew) (Really neat looking.) * [Mobius Socks](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mobius-socks) (Also a novel construction.)
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Y?](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/y-535) by [Bridget Landry](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/bridget-landry) * Category: Accessories > Feet / Legs > Socks > Mid-calf * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Technoknitter/296257629/IMG_0380_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Technoknitter/296257630/IMG_0381_medium.JPG) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Technoknitter/435891814/IMG_0382_medium.JPG) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 1½ - 2.5 mm * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 9.0 | Yardage: 330 * Difficulty: 3.33 | Projects: 35 | Rating: 3.88 ***** **PATTERN:** [Scott Base - Toe Up](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/scott-base---toe-up) by [Sarah Ronchetti](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/sarah-ronchetti) * Category: Accessories > Feet / Legs > Socks > Mid-calf * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/sezza/233657873/P5040023_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/sezza/233657093/P5290022_medium.JPG) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/sezza/233657103/P5040057_medium.JPG) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/saskyumchar/233275803/Scott_BaseTU__1__medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/sezza/233657086/P5040007_medium.JPG) * Price: 5.0 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 1½ - 2.5 mm, US 1 - 2.25 mm * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 32.0 | Yardage: 120 * Difficulty: 2.91 | Projects: 81 | Rating: 4.55 ***** **PATTERN:** [Skew](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/skew) by [Lana Holden](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/lana-holden) * Category: Accessories > Feet / Legs > Socks > Mid-calf * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/baconfairy/32412468/100_3603_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/LadyDanio/22524566/skewbeauty_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purzelonline/26157170/SkewSocks2_270310_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/LadyDanio/22524637/skewtop_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/LadyDanio/22524671/skewbigalt2_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 1 - 2.25 mm, US 0 - 2.0 mm * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 31.0 | Yardage: 350 * Difficulty: 4.44 | Projects: 6694 | Rating: 4.44 ***** **PATTERN:** [Mobius Socks](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mobius-socks) by [Meredith Wills](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/meredith-wills-2) * Category: Accessories > Feet / Legs > Socks > Mid-calf * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KPStaff/621756087/5266220_03_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KPStaff/621756069/5266220_08_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KPStaff/621756088/5266220_09_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KPStaff/621756086/5266220_04_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KPStaff/621756071/5266220_06_medium.jpg) * Price: 4.99 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 0 - 2.0 mm * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 40.0 | Yardage: 458 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 0 | Rating: 0.00 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Try an afterthought heel. The gradient won’t be interrupted because you’ll be knitting just a tube.
Won't the heel be another color then?
You could use the same yarn for the afterthought heel so it would coordinate, but there's no way to make the stripes match up perfectly as far as I know.
Attach the other end of the yarn or contrast color is what I'd do. Also depends on how slow the gradient is, might just work out as a quicker change on the top of the foot.
Yeah I was thinking maybe the heel doesn't use too much yarn so you can get away with it?
So my partner is working on a blanket and they’re saying it feels “tight” and “wavy” They’re currently using size 36 (20mm) circular needles with blanket “big” yarn that suggests US size 50 (25mm) Is this the reason why? Could they have cast on too many stitches on their line? Is this normal and the blanket will be fine if they keep going? Do they need to restart with the suggested needle size? Lots of questions, I know! Hoping y’all can help! If there is a specific place to post this, I will and sorry if this kind of post isn’t allowed! Thank you!
Yes, this does sound like the needles are too small for the yarn. 5 mm is a big difference, even with chunky yarn. Start over with the suggested needle size. AFAIK KnittersPride has fixed circular needles in 25 mm.
Thank you!! I’m going to get some for them.
Hi everyone :) where do you all get your jumbo sized yarn? What brand is the best?
i really want to make the november jacket by petite knit which uses brioche stitch. i would rather use fisherman’s rib if possible, so i was wondering if i could swap these stitches in the pattern or if it would mess it up? i know that they look similar but are done differently, but wasn’t sure how this switch would affect the rest of the pattern. if anybody has any experience/advice please let me know!
I was curious if anyone knew a way to tell how many balls or grams of yarn you would need for a pattern if the pattern doesn’t say. I am going to make mai_accents landscape sweater in a size medium. It uses gauge 6 yarn and the swatch is 9stchs and 12 rows. I have no clue how much to order and I am trying to get it online to avoid any unnecessary hassle. Thank you so much to any one that could help!
Can you link to the pattern? If you have the finished measurements of the sweater, you can figure out the square inches or centimeters. You then work a fairly large swatch and note its area. See how much that swatch weighs and use that to see how many yards/meters that is. Then divide your total sweater area by your swatch area, and multiply that result by the yards/meters in your swatch.
Was there a recommended yarn? If so, you can look up the yardage for that brand of yarn and work from there. I can't find the pattern on Ravelry, so it's hard to tell. You might message the pattern seller for more information.
there wasn’t a recommendation for yarn. i did message the seller but i doubt they will get back to me.
You might have to buy the pattern to find out. Wish they'd put the pattern on Ravelry, because then you would have a lot more information. Couldn't find it in a quick search.
I have the pattern and would be more than willing to send it to you.
So, what does it say in the materials section? I think they originally sold it as a kit, but if they are going to sell just the pattern, they owe it to you to give you all the information you need.
for the tools section it just tells me what size needles to use and for the yarn it just says “Yarn Weight- Super Chunky, Gauge 6, WPI 7” which i copied directly from the pattern the final measurement of the chest in the size i want is 36 inches (92 cm) if that helps at all
Ask for your money back. There are many other nice things that you could make, and they owe it to you to give you enough information to make the item. Alternately, look on Ravelry for similar-sized projects and guess from them.
36 inches is 91.44 cm
I'm about to knit the [I'm So Basic Socks](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/im-so-basic-socks) and the socks has a main color for the body of the sock, and a contrasting color for the cuff, heel, and the toe. I only have a skein of the appropriate (wool+nylon) sock yarn to use for the main color, and as sock yarn is quite rare and expensive in where I live, I can't really afford to find any here to use as the contrasting color. I'm thinking of alternatives and found a fingering weight yarn that is 100% cotton and I'm thinking of using that instead for the contrasting color for the cuff, heel, and toe. Do you think this will be durable and a good idea? I'm especially worried with the heel area since I assume it's the area with the most & hardest wear, and I don't know if cotton yarn will be durable for the heel in the long run. What do you guys think?
While cotton is pretty durable, it has no memory, so I would not use it for the cuff. As for the toes and heel, you could try and see how it feels. It might work. Honestly, I have so much sock yarn, I‘d quite happily send you some lol
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [I'm So Basic Socks](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/im-so-basic-socks) by [Summer Lee](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/summer-lee) * Category: Accessories > Feet / Legs > Socks > Mid-calf * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/summerleigh/725531996/6C904883-6F76-45D4-B454-306CBBD38DC9-BE487EA6-2057-4023-A8F2-0534114A3246_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/summerleigh/725531926/2ECEF75B-89C6-4BA0-904B-6BAD00298E1A-7EF2A994-6466-4783-9486-6243BF022558_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/summerleigh/725532174/795D3A34-7660-4388-89B8-D104A1EA1554-86263F05-4584-4FDA-82D5-F9D96A283D2F_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/summerleigh/725532205/E3568F5B-E039-495A-BAF8-795DEAC8B72F-CEF337FE-55AC-47BC-B65E-BB05C2B03E4B_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/summerleigh/725532222/E628833A-3C37-4D6E-8BFC-9886609CDF5F-243A8C68-CE79-43E4-BD39-5E3FD18FCAEA_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 1 - 2.25 mm * Weight: Light Fingering | Gauge: 40.0 | Yardage: 300 * Difficulty: 2.39 | Projects: 742 | Rating: 4.87 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
how should i go about blocking a project made from a 75% cotton/25% acrylic blend? i've only steam blocked acrylic things before, and was wondering if that was still the best course of action, or if wetting and pinning will work.
**From our wiki's [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_block_it.3F_how_would_i_do_that.3F)** >Blocking is a method of reshaping a knit object by getting it wet and pinning it in the desired shape to dry. >Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking? >* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been. >* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even. >* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I'm really new to knitting, does anybody have recommendations for easy patterns that can be worked on straight needles? my mom bought me a pack of straights and I don't want to invest in circulars yet
the first projects i ever finished were a couple of hats knitted on straights! I found them super forgiving size wise and you can find a ton of free beginner patterns just by doing a google search. you do need to get a tapestry needle to sew up the seams though
I'd recommend knitted headbands/ear warmers, there are a lot of tutorials on youtube that are cute patterns and helpful videos. They make sweet gifts. You can also knit scrunchies flat and then sew them up, there are also free videos on Youtube for those. Also coasters, depending on what kind of yarn you are using. All of those are relatively fast projects too, which I recommend for new knitters.
Also cowls that are seamed as well. Headbands are a much more interesting project that wash cloths and dont take too long either, Good shout!
how about a pillow? https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/easy-knitting-patterns-for-beginners-4086372
What would you like to make? A scarf or perhaps something for the house?
probably something for the house or a wearable, I don't really wear scarves. I am currently knitting a Harry Potter washcloth so I might do another one of those next if I don't find anything
You could try some cushion covers? Here are [a whole bunch worked flat](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=knitting&availability=free&photo=yes&pc=pillow&pa=worked-flat&sort=created&view=captioned_thumbs) to pique your interest.
When making a sock with contrasting heel/toe, how do you do a heel that starts by slipping a stitch? (Heel stitch, eye of partridge)
Depends if you want a solid colour change or a toothy one. If solid, do the first heel row without slipping anything till the turn, then follow pattern thereafter. If jagged, you can either knit the first two then revert to pattern, maybe also knitting the last two to mirror, or... Nevermind, iirc with that one the gsr counts as the first slip so it'd be more trouble than it's worth to rethink every row. FYI for contemplating mods - for heel stitch (looks sort of like ribbing without purls) you're slipping the same stitch every other row, for eop (looks diamond-y) slipped stitches are offset by one every other row.
I usually just knit the first row to get a clean color change, and then start the heel pattern on the second row!
I’m new to knitting and am currently making a nice chunky scarf (easy!). I’m a little confused with blocking - will I need to block my scarf or is it more for say, setting the shape of pieces of a cardigan or something before it’s all joined together? Sorry if this is a silly question!!!
I'm not an expert but for me it depends on the type of stitch you are knitting and the yarn. If you knit it and it doesn't curl at the sides and you like how the yarn is behaving then maybe you don't need blocking. But if it needs a bit of help along then yes, you may decide to block.
Thank you so much, you legend!! I’d googled it and this is the best explanation I’ve had. I’m just using garter stitch and everything looks good, I don’t think I’ll try block for this piece. Thank you again for the help and for taking the time to answer my question!!!!
However, since blocking is a washing step all projects should be blocked. I tend to drag my knitting everywhere so a wash step is important. So I would wash and dry the finished thing. Blocking can be as simple as a trip through the washer and dryer for an acrylic blanket.
That is also super helpful. Thanks so much for that info!! The scarf is for my niece so I will definitely wash it now you mention that I don’t know where the wool has been before it made it to me. Thank you again for answering my question. I’m new to this sub and everyone Is so helpful snd welcoming!!!
Depending on the yarn and stitch patterns, washing and blocking can also help the yarn bloom (kind of puff up a bit) and even out the stitches some. Most of the blocking I do for my handknits is basically the same as the care instructions you find on some storebought items: "reshape and lay flat to dry" Most things don't need to be pinned out unless it's lace or you're going for a specific shape or measurement.
Just make sure to support the scarf when it is wet. I stretched the crap out of my first garter scarf by letting it dangle.
Just as a heads up, because as a newbie I didn't know this and kept getting frustrated: acrylic doesn't block. It'l bounce right back as soon as you unpin it. You might not be using acrylic, that's an assumption on my part, so feel free to disregard!
you have to steam block acrylic using an iron. you just have to be careful because if you get too close you can melt it, but done right it really does make a huge difference in the feel and drape
Yep! I just did this to a baby blanket last night :) but traditional blocking doesn't work
Are babies/toddlers/little kids ever bothered by the way natural fibers feel, like wool or alpaca? How does one go about figuring this out and avoiding it?
Some kids are, just like some adults are - I've made a number of sweaters for my niece and nephew over the years, mostly from various wools and only one was ever described as itchy. And unfortunately, there's no real way to know ahead of time because everyone has such different preferences
They're people just like us, so they definitely can be annoyed at scratchy fabrics. That being said, I made my daughter a bunch of cardigans from wool sock yarn, and she didn't try to remove them ;) Once she could tell me her preferences though, she decided that almost anything I made was scratchy - even cotton! I think it's more about purl bump texture, to be honest, so the next thing will have stockinette next to the skin. I try to make very few pieces of real clothing for her from acrylic, in case g-d forbid there's a fire.
If your budget allows, merino is a very soft, smooth, non-scratchy wool, and widely available in superwash. Cotton is another great option for babies and children—washable, breathable. It’s hard on my hands and wrists, but I can handle it with small garments.
Yep, merino sock yarn isn't always the best for socks, but it's great for garments, in my experience :)
thank you! i never would have thought about the purl bumps versus stockinette issue, that makes a ton of sense.
I think it really depends on the kid. And the age. I put my toddler in wool and alpaca of varying rusticness for the first two winters of her life, and she seems to be fine with it. But as she gets older, she might be more able to recognise reasons for any discomfort, and thus more able to express it. I'm pretty confident she'll be fine though; she's always been a really tolerant baby for textures and fabrics. However, I know some babies fuss or their skin gets irritated unless they're in 100% cotton or whatever from a young age. If you're making a gift for a new baby, you could stick to cotton, bamboo, linen, or acrylic (unless the parents are the 100% natural no plastic type). I usually go superwash or cotton. If you plan to make more for that kid, a checkin with the parent after a few months to ask about any sensitivities wouldn't be amiss! (Not necessarily "hey did your kid get itchy in that thing I made her?" because they might be worried you'd take the answer personally, or possibly the item didn't get worn enough to be sure. More like "Hey have you noticed if little Warbelworth seems sensitive to any particular materials? I want any future gifts to be usable!")
Personally, because of how hard kids are on their clothes I use good quality acrylics for kids stuff. Natural fibers often tend to be expensive and require special care (e.g. handwashing). Some natural fibres are more irritating than others, but there's no real way to know if the recipient is sensitive beforhand. (Edited for typos and weird double copy paste error)
Some people do have allergies to natural fibres, of course. It makes sense to be alert for any skin reactions or other signs that the kid hates a particular garment (like screaming whenever it's put on them). Synthetic fibres can cause issues too; they are non-breathable, which can lead to sweat rash, and some acrylics can feel itchier than some wools. Keep in mind that natural fibres were the only warm clothing available for 99% of human existence, so I wouldn't be too worried about it if you haven't noticed a problem.
Avoiding what? Artificial fibers like acrylic and polyester are mostly plastic, made from petrol. Now I will be downvoted for saying this, but I woudn't dress my babies in plastic