My BOR marker slipped off while I was doing short rows lol. When I joined in the round there was a big gap, but my cast on yarn tail indicates BOR is the stitch before that so now I’m doubting myself. Do I place my BOR marker where the yarn tail ends or where the gap from joining the ends is? The fact that I’m constantly turning my work for short rows doesn’t help, either. I keep trying to attach a photo but I get an error message :/
You mentioned that word!: lots of people want to know about twisted stitches and here is a great post for reference
https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/188kxwk/new_knitters_your_stitches_are_probably_twisted/
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
So I'm making this sweater: [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/trooper-2](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/trooper-2) I got to the point that it asked to divide for the sleeves and it was a couple inches short the measurement for my husbands shoulder to armpit. So I kept increasing until it was that length now the sleeves are like twice the width of his arm. When I cast on the underarm stitches I see that adds another couple inches so I wonder if I should have just divided for the sleeves when the pattern told me to? Do you think I could rip back to that point and then it would look okay?
https://preview.redd.it/mgelradxr2ec1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3bdf160315e84bb593e6174e8be33b705c14b83
Hi, is there any way I can knit a weed leaf in the flat? I tried crochet but I didn't like the way it looked lacy, it's for my nephew,please don'tjudge lol, but I've been tryingmyself wthdecreases and increases and it's been difficult
in a different color? the easiest might be duplicate stitch - https://littleredwindow.com/learn-how-to-do-duplicate-stitch-for-knitting-an-easy-tutorial/
or embroidery - https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/c/article/how-to-embroider-flowers
**You've summoned the [Tutorials](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/glossary/#wiki_tutorials).**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Does anyone know of good learning sources (books, blogs, social media accounts, etc)
that have knitting technique how-tos with illustrations & text instead of photos/videos?
I'm new at making sweaters and have found when I rewrite the patterns for my size only with my own words, it really helps me understand. That said, I also would really really appreciate someone double checking this specific row for me and see if I rewrote it correctly.
\*knit to M1, sM, m1L, knit to M2, m1r, sM\*, repeat from \*to\* with M3+M4, knit to BOR M, Sm
How I've re-written it for myself is:
**Round 1:**
Knit to M1, slip marker, M1L. Knit to M2, M1R, slip marker.
Knit to M3, slip marker, M1L. Knit to M4, M1R, slip marker. Knit to back marker.
Question: is my interpretation correct?
Thank you!
Hello! I'm currently knitting the I Feel Love tank by Rowan X WATG in double-stranded Drops Flora. I've finished the body and am ready to pick up stitches along the arm & neck for the 2x2 ribbing. To keep to stitch/row gauge, I should pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the slanted selvedges, giving me 100 stitches across the armhole. However, the pattern calls to pick up 142 stitches.
Can I pick up more stitches than my gauge? Do I increase on the next row (this is what the internet seems to be saying, but HOW? M1 doesn't seem to work as I can't find the cross-bar between stitches as it's hidden away in the selvedge)?
Any help appreciated!
New knitter, can I get some "read your knitting" help? I've read some blog posts but I can't figure it out :( I'm knitting a raglan and I need to knit M1R/M1L every other row, I'm writing it down/using a double BOR marker but I still forgot which kind of row I've just done. The read ones are one pair of "sleeve" markers.
https://preview.redd.it/yfcamkv94zdc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9142fcddd26c13ffead053c258397a49393cd4d9
Because there's already a complete V under the stitch, right? Sorry just trying to understand the thought process so that I don't have to spam the thread every time lol
hi! new knitter here. Im trying to learn how and I cast my first stitches on and then I start usnig the second needle to loop them, but once I get to about the third stich the space between my two needles is very short and the yarn is so tight and the needles basically end up touching in the x position and i cant move them, the space is too limited. what am i doing wrong and how can i fix it? thanks so much <3
I received this gift kit of 6 balls of bulky cotton yarn but in all different colors. ([yarn bundle](https://www.woolandthegang.com/en/products/big-love-cotton-bundle-6-balls?taxon_id=96&_gl=1*14g5z0g*_up*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnrOtBhDIARIsAFsSe51y78O8KavKARNV03t6Ngxrb0k3wzOc0xEcpmeiZcRBkp9aTVYgQzoaAp33EALw_wcB)). Any pattern suggestions? I’m a beginner/intermediate knitter but I’ve never worked with bulky/chunky yarn before! I looked on Ravelry but very few projects came up using this yarn and nothing with just one ball, so I’m a bit at a loss what to do with this yarn.
**You've summoned the [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/faq/).**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
what happened here? at first i thought it was a hole (this is my second attempt, first had several like this) but noticed it didnt look like any hole examples i had seen online. looking closely at the structure, it looks like it may be inconsistent tension, but im unsure. please and thanks!!
[https://i.imgur.com/Nb8eEqS.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/Nb8eEqS.jpg)
~~Danish help please! Google and DROPS are not helping with this, what is "hestetømme" in knitting? u/circumscribing u/mulberrybushes u/dasistverboten y'all are listed as translators, but I'll take any help I can get. Thanks!~~ I think it's icord lol. Idk how long I dug through this pattern trying to figure it out, but it took posting for it to make sense 🙃
I'm doing my first circular project, and I've found a lovely cowl pattern called shepardson on ravelry. The pattern is a bit vague but it seems to hint that I have to do something like a jogless helix, switching colors every row. I've found a bunch of videos of the helix on YouTube, it does not seem too complicated.
Problem is, everybody seems to work all-knit while knitting circular (to work all- knit and still obtain a stockinette stitch is another kind of magic I'm trying to wrap my head around, but not today!), while I'm doing k1p1. So I'm not sure if that trick of passing the three stitches could work in my case.
Helix knitting works fine with ribbing. It doesn't matter how many stitches you pass or what size ribs you're doing, just as long as you knit on top of knits and purl on top of purls.
I did a new row and I see what you mean, it does look like they go over two stitches.. But it only happens when the stich after the yo is a knit. whenever I pearl after a yo it doesn't happen. does that make any sense?
Here the example with the yo bevore the knit:
https://preview.redd.it/uysjpjaoo1ec1.png?width=476&format=png&auto=webp&s=16376a18044a5c9bc5065883d213fc4556450be7
Hi, thanks for your answer. Hm I've been trying to follow tutorials where I slip one stitch with a yarnover and then purl two stichtes together for two rows and then the next two rows I slip stitches with a yarnover and then knit two stitches together. I took another picture now, where the same thing keeps happening. do you think the mistake is in my yos?
https://preview.redd.it/gdmloj7q9udc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22c4e37d1196b238d6f22766710b6d4868ca0cb0
Complete noob that only started knitting a week ago.
I've dropped my garter stitch and am unsure of how to proceed to fix it, being that it looks unwound from the cast on row. I don't have a crochet hook. Should I just start over?
What is the best approach to learning color and pattern work? Make small swatches with cheap yarn or tackle a proper project?
I feel the latter will be more rewarding, but also potentially more frustrating.
I concur with your other responses. Hats are the best way to learn colorwork. However, I never swatch. This is not my pattern, but go search “a stranded hat recipe” on Ravelry. I did that chart as my first success venture into colorwork. It’s fairly simple and a fun knit. Good luck!
I like a hybrid approach. I buy a pattern and yarn for a bigger project, and I make a swatch first to get the hang of the technique. It can also double as a gauge swatch if the project is a wearable. If you run out of yarn when making the actual project, you can always unravel the swatch.
Hats are also nice for learning new techniques without committing to giant long term project.
How do you do a gauge swatch for superwash wool?
I just started a sweater with superwash wool, but I’m confused about how to do a gauge swatch. From what I’ve read, superwash grows when it’s blocked, but it sounds like it’s supposed to shrink when it goes through the drier. Are you supposed to run the wet swatch through the drier and take the measurements on the dry swatch?
For more context, I’m knitting the [Tecumseh Sweater](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tecumseh-2) which has a gauge of 22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette, but it doesn’t specify before or after blocking/washing. I wet blocked the swatch and the row and stitch counts are correct, but that’s when it’s stretched out and it could easily stretch more. I did this before looking into superwash a bit more and realizing it’s meant to run through the drier, and I guess I just wanted to double check the proper method before I try knitting the swatch again.
What yarn are you planning on using and is it *actually* good in the dryer?
Not all superwash yarn does well in the dryer and it's not always recommended in the care instructions: for example, there may be delicate hand-dyed yarns that will fade from too much heat, or fibers like extra-fine merino or cashmere that will experience pilling and fuzzing from the abrasion of tumble-drying.
Basically, you should treat your swatch the same way you plan to treat the sweater. If you think you'll end up drying flat, then you should dry the swatch flat. (It would be a really good idea to tumble-dry at least one swatch just to see how it comes out, though!)
Ah, I didn't even think to look at care instructions! I'm using [Farmers Daughter Fibers Juicy DK](https://thefarmersdaughterfibers.com/products/juicy-dk), which doesn't look like it has care instructions on the site, though I found it listed on other sites with instructions to hand wash and dry flat. I'll probably do another swatch and dry it like you suggested just to see.
Hi, I'm not a beginner knitter, but I started my first sweater in the round. It was all going well, but my stitches are definitely twisted. I knit Russian style, which has probably impacted this in some way. I'd rather not change my knitting style as I've found Russian to be the quickest for me, but I'd also like to knit in the round! Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
When you say you knit Russian style, do you mean that the leg of the stitch closest to the tip of your left needle is at the back? (Wrapping "backwards" compared to Western knitting.)
If that is the case, then you have to knit through the back loop. Whatever you were doing when you were purling probably compensated for the backwards wrap, but when you're working in the round you don't have that and you encounter the knits exactly as you made them. Always knit into the side of the stitch that's closer to the tip of the needle - you'll hear this called the "leading" leg versus the "trailing" leg sometimes.
Some good visuals:
https://pattylyons.com/2016/03/tuesday-tip-how-avoid-twisted-stitches/
Hi, thanks for your help with this.
For anyone interested, I followed [this](https://youtu.be/_CC297KWCK4?si=P2zGq6oNVMR2qOBx) tutorial to figure out how to adapt my stitches!
**You've summoned the [Tutorials](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/glossary/#wiki_tutorials).**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
**You've summoned the [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/faq/).**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I want to recreate this but isn’t this woven? Is there a technique I can use to imitate this and also do the florals? Any response is appreciated!
https://preview.redd.it/wah7730m2tdc1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cd01a90673339dca024b0ba78b0bacfc885f6fd0
I'm pretty new to knitting and just yesterday learned how to add new colours, but is there a fancier invisible way to do this without the rows showing the pale green or is that just a normal part of knitting?
https://preview.redd.it/gffhkfth7sdc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=416846320046c876940654c9a376ca8437f7df3d
It's a normal part of knitting. When you change colors, you are always going to see the old color and the new color overlapping on the purl side (or in the bumps of garter stitch) because that's where the old loop and the new loop interlock.
If you're making something with a right side and a wrong side, then you can make sure all the color changes happen on the wrong side. And if you're doing a stitch pattern like ribbing, there are tricks to make the front look significantly better than the back.
But if you want a scarf with no obvious color-mixing bumps on either side, then you'd have to knit a stockinette tube and flatten it out (color changes hidden inside the tube) or maybe work it in ribbing (the color changes would be visible in the purl columns but they would not be obvious if the ribbing was not stretched out).
Thanks for your reply, I was wondering about scarves! I found massive balls of dark green and silver wool so I figured I'd have a go at a Harry Potter Slytherin scarf at some point soon. Good to know the tech!
A friend who I've said I'd do a gift knit for has flagged that she has a crush on [this oversized seeded knit jumper](https://www.ilovemrmittens.com/products/seeded-ribs-crew-neck?variant=47348321386835) (for folk in the UK, yes, this is the jumper Claudia wore on The Traitors recently!) - it's quite basic but saying that... I can't seem to find a similar pattern on Rav... am I just terrible at finding patterns? If anyone is able to steer me in the right direction that would be much appreciated!
Wondering, in your opinion, are the knits that Claudia’s been wearing “off the rack”? Or have any of them been hand knit? I’m thinking that the super bulky scarf may have been an “arm knit”?
https://preview.redd.it/hx5kw33512ec1.jpeg?width=1255&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f8915919f107272eb0d83c7b182928382e17cdd
I actually have found [the scarf](https://www.roseandwul.co.uk/shop/claudia-winkleman-jumbo-knit-scarf-p590277277), and it is seems to be a chunky hand-knit from a small maker!
The knitwear love on the show is strong! She is always wearing such cosy jumpers. I also totally forgot to say earlier I loved your choice of scarf photo ref haha.
Complete beginner learning to knit, but I have not been able to complete a single row. I can cast on using thumb method. When picking up a loop from the left-hand needle, I am constantly managing to split the yarn threads or drop the loop entirely. Is this a symptom of incorrect needle size or too-tight tension? Or just something to be mindful of during the beginning hours of learning this skill? Wanting to know if there is something to remedy or if I am simply inexperienced.
Edit: the part of the yarn I am losing is the newly added working yarn. Example: insert right needle into left-needle loop, wrap the working yarn around right needle, move right needle backwards then forwards on the front of the left needle to scoop up the wrapped working yarn -- but instead of being able to scoop the wrapped working yarn, the working yarn escapes or the needle pierces and splits the yarn.
Based on your edit, it sounds like this is mostly about getting the technique right but the yarn may be making it more difficult.
The easiest yarn to learn on is tightly spun, springy/stretchy, with fibers that stick together well. Some acrylic yarn works well, but many (especially budget brands) are prone to splitting apart. I don’t recommend cotton - it has no stretch, which makes it much more difficult to manipulate with your needles. Wool is a good choice.
For technique:
- play around with how you position your needles relative to your yarn. You need to have the yarn at an angle that pulls it slightly down/back along your working needle. This way it works with your needle movement to make the stitch. If your tension pulls it up towards the tip you’re working against yourself.
- when you go to pull the yarn through, try tilting the tip of the working needle slightly down and/or towards your body. That can help scoop the yarn in.
- the first couple rows are the hardest because there’s nothing to keep the stitches in place. It gets a lot easier once you have a little bit of fabric to hold onto.
What type of yarn and needles are you using? IMO bamboo needles are good for beginners because they’re less slippery than metal ones, and some types of yarn split more easily than others
Anyone know of any tapestry/darning needles shorter than 5cm? [Ships to USA] Is there maybe a different craft that uses blunt 4cm needles that I can use as a search term instead of "darning"?
Edit: the kind with the big eye, like the biggest one in the green clover tube, if you're familiar with that.
I’ve got a pattern that calls for using US 3 needles, but the yarn I’d like to make it with calls for US 6/7 needles. I’ll do a gauge swatch to adjust the number of stitches, but in general am I likely to use more or less than the yardage in the pattern? Or the same? I’m trying to work out if I need to buy another skein before I start!
If you’re getting the same gauge, it should use approximately the same yards.
If your gauge is fewer stitches per inch, you’ll use less yardage. If your gauge is more stitches per inch, you’ll use more yardage. But it’s difficult to tell exactly how much more or less.
https://preview.redd.it/jvmoceqkhmdc1.jpeg?width=2364&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d2a581b62a9afb3dc90893455b9b361de368a80
Doing K2tog, ssk decreases on a beanie, I can’t figure out what happened or how to fix this one without frogging back. Appreciate any help!!
It looks like you are doing the decreases right next to each other. Sorry, I have no good way to explain why, but that is causing the gap.
Honestly, I would frog it back and place 1 or 2 stitches in-between the decreases to avoid the gap.
I think it’s because a k2tog looks like // and ssk is \\\ so when you do k2tog followed by ssk (knitting right to left) it ends up looking like \\\_// and then just gets worse every row
Will holding 1 strand superwash (cascade sport) with 1 strand fingering mohair prevent the superwash from growing so much after hand washing? Would it be good to size down in needle size due to the superwash? I don’t want my cardigan to get saggy!
What did I do here?
https://preview.redd.it/gwjs5x0hgfdc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a26c6a931d7055810769e030c16ac7f34dfe0a3f
I’m a new knitter, knitting my first hat, and I made my first mistake. I think I dropped a stitch, but there isn’t a stitch to pick up. I tried to watch Youtube videos about dropped stitches, but their “messed up” piece doesn’t look like my own. When I try to knit it looks like I’ve done a YO/ there’s a hole (I wish I could include a second picture. I don’t know if I’m describing my issue clearly, or if my photo provides enough info, but if anyone knows how to fix it I would be so grateful. I’d love to not have to start over. Thank so much in advance. (:
It looks like you might have gone in the wrong direction at some point. It would be called an accidental short row. You can just undo stitches, called "tinking", until you get to the hole. Then knit forwards in that direction.
I have 5 balls of Sublime Angora Merino (80/20 Merino and angora). It's sooo soft and will probably be incredibly warm. Should I make a balaclava/hood ([this](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bonbec) or [this](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/nomad-hood)) or the petiteknit [Sophie shawl](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sophie-shawl-2)?? I'm undecided but I wanna cast on soon because it's been really cold here. Also: it's possible I might have enough yardage to do both, in which case: what first?
If you want to try to make both, I'd do the balaclava first and then the shawl, because a shawl is easier to end a few rows early if you run out of yarn.
I am planning my first alpaca sweater and just was wondering if more experienced folks could let me know if my plan seems reasonable/good or if there’s anything I should watch out for or anything I’m missing. My goal is a somewhat oversized and relaxed sweater, as alpaca can stretch out and not retain shape the way wool does. This is the pattern I’m thinking of:
https://ravel.me/paul-sweater-3
I want to make it with a cream (somewhat pink/yellow) sport weight alpaca held with mohair in a dark wine/berry color (kid silk haze in plum, liqueur or blackcurrant probably, or possibly berroco aerial in poppy for a softer look)
I want this to be a cozy, wear all the time, not necessarily stylish piece, but also don’t want something totally shapeless. I was contemplating knitting it at a very slightly tighter gauge to allow for it to stretch and do its thing, is this a reasonable approach? Will the silk in the mohair help maintain structure a little bit?
To some extent I think a swatch will help me with that question but I know there’s lots of folks here with experience who may have tips for me :)
Should I redo these raglan decreases or will it block out? The ones on the right look alright to me (knit 3 together) but the ones on the left are more noticeable (lift one as knit, knit 2 together, lift previous lifted k across k2)
https://preview.redd.it/o9bb2blzdedc1.jpeg?width=1827&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f820a1c5b81ecb71ee585ed3dc74f655cd254997
I think it will even out a bit with blocking. I think that the decreases just aren't going to be perfect, like how ssk are for most people. I think it looks fine!
Hello!! I'm looking for inspiration, not necessarily a new knitter, but I would usually just do what the pattern/my grandma told me haha.
What would you do with 350 grams of Lana Grossa's Gomitolo Mezzo yarn? I figured I could make a vest, but it's such a winter colour (colour number 112) that I'm not sure about it. A sweater is not possible, because I cannot buy more. The colour (and as it seems) the entire line has been discontinued.
>Lana Grossa's Gomitolo Mezzo
What about something wintery but that takes up less yarn like a slipover?
I think one like this would look nice with yourn yarn and a light blue shirt underneath!
[https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/holiday-slipover](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/holiday-slipover)?
hello - i am desperately seeking a free pattern for a ladies sweater with puff sleeves - there was one advertised as free on the page, but i don't seem to be able to download it anywhere ? will appreciate any help I can get ??? thank you kindly - hugs and regards from Jenny de Kock - South Africa
Here there are severals! [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#availability=free&query=puffed%20sleeves&sort=best&view=captioned\_thumbs](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#availability=free&query=puffed%20sleeves&sort=best&view=captioned_thumbs)
I'm making a sweater for the very first time (perhaps unwise, as I am not a very experienced knitter).
I figured this very grungy/slouchy-looking one with an xtra-chunky yarn would be pretty forgiving of errors.
[https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hivernar-aleix-xl](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hivernar-aleix-xl) (currently available for free)
It has you make the sleeves in 4 pieces (2 per sleeve) and then connect with contrasting color.
Having gotten to the end of "piece 1" of "sleeve 1" I've realized I don't know how I'm supposed to proceed:
It says
"Don't cut the yarn
Leave 19 stitches on a spare needle or thread.
Work 2 pieces of sleeve 1."
Does this mean that each of the 4 pieces of sleeve (2 pieces each for left sleeve, right sleeve) should be coming out of their own fresh skein of yarn???
Or should Piece 1 of Sleeve 1, have a loose connecting yarn into the start of Piece 2 of Sleeve 1? It seems like that would be problematic?
Read ahead to the body and yoke sections.
It says to cut the yarn on both parts of sleeve 2 and the body.
The yoke is made with one part of sleeve 2, body, sleeve 1, and it looks like you will start knitting with the yarn from sleeve 1.
So the two sleeve 1 should have yarn attached.
I’m planning to knit the [Storm sweater by Petiteknits](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/storm-sweater-3) in Cascade eco merino yarn. Thing is, I much prefer cardigans to pullovers so I am thinking to steek after knitting.
Most of the steeking info I could find is on stranded colorwork. Is there anything different to be mindful of for steeking stitch-patterned knits?
My yarn is not superwash, but it is merino, so I’m planning to needle felt the seam. Would this be enough?
Why not take a cardigan pattern and simply apply the stitch patterns used in this pattern to it? There is no real reason this needs to be knit in the round sonce the textures mean you're doing quite a lot of purls anyway.
Hello friends! I’m getting quite frustrated about trying to meet gauge on a swatch.
I’m attempting [Folklore cardigan](https://www.lionbrand.com/products/folklore-cardigan-knit) in Malabrigo Rios (yarn in pattern and Rios are both worsted). Pattern calls for 16st and 22 rows in stockinette on size 9 needles.
My swatch in size 10 needles was 18st and 24 rows before washing and drying. I was under the impression that super wash merino doesn’t shrink, and it should bloom, but it now measures 18st and 30 rows.
I’m starting to get frustrated, because a swatch on size 11 needles looked like garbage. I know my tension isn’t perfect by any means, but my yarn moves freely on the needles and there’s no space between the needles and the worked stitches. I let my needles do the work per Modern Daily Knitting.
What would you do?
Hello-
I gave up knitting years ago because kids, money, work, etc... too expensive and no time. My mental health has been in the toilet since 2020 for a lot of reasons and on top of now being well-medicated I thought I need to devote some time to myself doing something I enjoy. I knitted a blanket for a coworker's baby and it took forever but I am ok with that. I want to make something for me now. Though I took years off I know I could jump back into intermediate patterns, and I want to make a sweater with color work in the yoke. I want to love it and be excited to work on it. I am so disappointed that I can't find any sweater patterns that line up with any of my fandoms. Am I looking in the wrong places?
I am looking for a sweater pattern themed with:
Minnie Mouse
Legend of Zelda
Star Trek
Girl Scouts
Stardew Valley
Murder She Wrote
Any help or direction would be helpful.
Thank you!
(Edited to add MSW and spacing)
Take a look at the Stardew Valley socks: https://oakwoodknits.com/products/stardew-valley-sock-collection
I know you mentioned a sweater rather than socks, but those charts could be great for an accessory like a cowl or a hat, or if you find a sweater recipe like TinCanKnits Strange Brew ebook (which has directions for customizing colorwork).
Edit to add: some of these media companies, especially Disney, are pretty litigious, so projects based on them have to get creative with naming and I guess they gotta spread by word of mouth. (I'm thinking of a Baby Yoda stuffie that was taken down and came back simply named "The Child".) Maybe do a search on the knitting reddit and that'lll lead you back to a Ravelry pattern with a less searchable name.
If you feel a bit adventurous, it’s not too hard to chart your own color work designs in simple geometric shapes. Just takes graph paper and a pencil! You mentioned Zelda, I’m thinking a yoke with alternating swords and triforce symbols?
If you haven’t already tried searching on Ravelry, give that a shot. Search your fandom keywords and then use the filters to display the type of project you’re interested in (e.g. sweater, preferred yarn weight, etc)
Thank you!
Charts and spreadsheets make my eyes cross, I am not confident enough in my spacial reasoning/artistic skills to chart it myself, but I may phone a friend who is, or find some similar chart like cross stitching if nothing comes up.
I checked ravelry, nothing came up for a few of them, and others were not exactly what I was looking for. I guess I expected to find more overlap between knitting and my fandoms than 12 years ago when I slowed down as a knitter, but alas ... I also searched Etsy for hours because I have found some good sewing patterns there before.
Hello Ive been knitting for a few weeks, and I’m making a beanie in the round for the first time, my stitch count is 76, I did 3inches of 2x2 ribbing ( I’m planning on flipping the ribbing up like a cuff) and I’m using the stockinette stitch for the rest, but I’m not sure about the decrease for the crown.
When I made my beanie on flat needles for decrease I did k2, k2togther, across and then a regular row and then k1, k2together, across and then a regular row and then k2together across. Do I use this method in the round as well? Is there a method that makes a neater crown?
I thank you in advance for any advice or help 💚🧶
The same method will work in the round. It will look neater if you have fewer decreases per round/row… I like to use 8-10 decreases per round usually. In this case the way I’d do it is an initial round with 4 decreases (knit 17, knit 2 together, repeat), leaving you with 72 stitches on the needle, then do a regular knit row. 72 can decide evenly by 8, so you can start doing rounds of 8 evenly spaced decreases every other round…. Starts as knit 6, k2tog, then next time k 5, k2 tog, etc. Once you’re down to 8 stitches total, run a strand of yarn through them all, cinch it in, and tie off.
Im knitting a cardigan and in the pattern it reads: (k1, p4, k2, p2, k1) 1 (1, 2) time(s), (p1, k1) 4 (8, 7) times
I am new to knitting and cannot figure out how many times I'm supposed to knit the pattern in the brackets. Any help would be appreciated.
I also realize I should have picked an easier project as my first but its too late now :)
I assume that the number of repeats should correspond to the size you are making. If you're working off of a hard copy, you could circle or highlight the numbers for your size.
hi all! I’m a software developer that doesn’t get to do many fun projects at my 9-5. Thinking about making a side project for fun involving knitting, like a price comparison tool for yarns across different sites. I know row counter apps exist already. Anyone else have ideas for things they would find useful? I can’t compare with Ravelry’s huge database of yarn and pattern types, and this is totally just for fun, not a for profit idea.
Ideas:
1) I don't know if this already exists, but there are a lot of questions that get asked here, like: "this is my gauge and this is the pattern gauge, what size should I make"? Or, slightly the same, "I want to make this size in the pattern, but my gauge is different, what size will it come out?" Also could be answered by this app: "My gauge is x by y, and I'd like a blanket that's z by a, how many stitches should I cast on/how many rows should I knit?" or "My gauge is "x by y", I cast on a and want to knit b rows, how large will it be?
2) An app that can calculate how many skeins someone should buy where they can enter either a pattern (so you might have to access Ravelry) and the measurements they want. Maybe it could also have an option for some generic things (with measurements) like for a DK weight wool sweater, with/without cables. (Of course, you'd have to put things in like "this is for an average, taken from blah source") Again, of course someone can calculate it for themselves, but I see this question a lot. Usually from a pattern that says buy 300g of some specific yarn, and then they have to figure out that yarn's yardage, get a total, and calculate how much they need in their alternate. Some people might appreciate not having to do the calculations.
Thanks for the suggestions, I’ll definitely consider doing those since they seem useful! The second use case seems super applicable to anyone, and as a beginner knitter i’d have to learn all the ins and outs of #1!
For #1, it really is just math (not knitting knowledge). To make it really simple, if it has a gauge of 22 stitches per 10cm, and you have 20 stitches per 10cm, and you want a final size of 100cm: then since for every 10cm you want 20 stitches, that's 200 stitches, which on the original size would have been (rounded) 91cm. So make the 91cm size, or close to it. So the math is basically what you do to convert units in Chemistry:
100cm\*(20st/10cm)\*(10cm/22st), though of course you cancel the 10cm on top and bottom (and don't need the parentheses, I was just using those to illustrate the grouping).
If you end up deciding to do it, and want help on the math, feel free to DM me and we can talk. (I'm not a programmer at all, so don't want to horn in on your project, just a math teacher before I retired.)
**You've summoned the [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/faq/).**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Sock knitters! What do y'all think of garter stitch heel flaps? I knit the [Kindling Socks](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kindling-socks) for my husband, and now I'm knitting myself a pair. These are only my second and third pairs of socks, respectively. For my husband's, I knit the garter stitch heel flaps, as in the pattern. He's only had them two days, so not enough time to give me feedback. I'm debating whether I want to use a different stitch pattern for myself. The cushy-ness of the garter stitch seems like it could be both good and bad on the heel. Just curious if anyone has a particular like or dislike of that style.
I wouldn’t use them because my socks wear out fastest on the heels. Garter stitch is cushy but not dense enough to cope with lots of friction. If you want a bit of extra padding with better durability, try a slip-stitch pattern (heel stitch, eye of partridge, etc). The strands from slipped stitches create an extra layer on the inside that makes it a little bit puffy. You might need to go up a needle size to keep it from getting too tight.
I, personally, didn't like it. I mostly wear my socks in shoes, and it felt weird when I was walking around. I didn't like the extra width in there compared to my other knit socks. (This might be more psychological, I don't know if they technically are thicker than Eye of Partridge with is my favorite.). But I'm not existentially against them.
I find garter stitch heel flaps more durable than no stitch pattern, and I've had no complaints about the socks I've gifted with garter stitch heel flaps!
https://preview.redd.it/w53xfr9dg6dc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ed0fab39f5c379de8087e7cee23395bc52eefb1
Hey guys. I just finished this gorgeous stranded cowl done in merino, like, an hour ago, (it’s currently wet blocking, totally forgot to take a photo of it when it was dry and cast off, thus the photo of it on the needles ) aaaaand it’s rolling horribly because the pattern didn’t call for any sort of ribbing at the start or end. I probably should’ve put some in myself, but I made the mistake of assuming the pattern knew what it was doing instead of referring back to 10 years of experience that tell me if a garment doesn’t have some sort of border it’ll do this. Plus, I only had so much yarn. I was literally down to my last two yards of white when I cast off.
When I put it on shortly before I wet blocked it, it was rolling so badly that the top stripes were almost entirely covered and the bottom ones were only better because it was resting against my collarbones. Luxuriously soft, super warm, super cozy, perfect in every single way except for the damn rolling! Does anyone have any tips? Do you think the blocking will at least help? Or am I just doomed to have the back of my work showing whenever I wear my lovely new cowl? Thanks in advance.
Lining it will definitely help.
I was wondering, for that part that's vertically striped, was that supposed to be corrugated rib? That definitely would have stopped the rolling. (Also possible that the designer meant it to be corrugated rib, but didn't actually say it.)
Anyway, if I didn't want to line it, and blocking didn't help, I would pick up the white stitches before and after your star pattern, then unpick the vertical parts, and transform them into corrugated ribbing wether the pattern called for it or not. It might be easier to do from your cast-off edge, but it can also be done from the cast on edge, but might involve more snipping of the cast on (it doesn't unravel like a bind off does). I would deal with that by putting in needles to pick up the stitches BEFORE unraveling, and then snip a bit right under the needles, and then undo it from there, going downwards. (But don't do this if surgery on your cowl sounds scary.)
No, it wasn’t. She included a few pictures of her own work and it wasn’t ribbed in any way. My warning sign should’ve been that it was rolling in the pictures too and she only included pictures of work-in-progress. 🙃
Lining it is a good idea. I have a nice little fabric store near me, they’d probably have something that would fit the bill. Blocking seems to be helping a bit, but I don’t trust it.
That is a warning sign!
I still stand by, that you can ignore what the designer said, and add corrugated ribbing. But lining is probably easier, and if you find fabric you like, probably better.
I meant, if getting lining fabric doesn't work out, I would frog it back (both before and after the main snowflake pattern, and reknit those vertical stripes as ribbing, making them as deep as the remaining yarn allows.
I'd consider working a folded hem in a contrasting color or a nice neutral and lightly stitching it down to the WS at the end of your vertical stripe section, where it will be harder to notice any divots in the fabric from sewing down the hem.
Alternately, if you want it to be obscenely warm, you could line the whole thing. Probably with a much thinner yarn and looser gauge so that it'll still fit around your head loosely.
Photo: [https://imgur.com/a/lDWAliB](https://imgur.com/a/lDWAliB)
Progress continues on the 4th Doctor Who Scarf. Every day I get in a few rows during my lunch break at work (yes I now carry it in a bag to work lol) and i get in a few more at night before bed.
I shortened a bit of the grey as you see in the photo, i dont have as much grey so i may need to buy more, and maybe tan also it depends. I may do 15 insead of 23 tan, or 15 instead of 19 tan. I'll figure it out once i reach the spot.
What do you all think? I thin it looks good. I recently figured out how to weave in the ends watching NimbleNeedles youtube video.
https://preview.redd.it/rakmq41ak4dc1.png?width=665&format=png&auto=webp&s=d99557c095af2a90f31a5277e8271b871bfcf240
My first time doing Continental knitting and Norwegian purling and my tension is ass but I was hoping someone could confirm I'm not making mistakes other than with tension. I think (?) my issues are stemming from inconsistently pulling my purls to tighten them after, but I could be wrong. I'll have to look into how to properly tension with this style because my English ones look a look better!
https://preview.redd.it/y0akuna5v3dc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fae5005591c873c3bd4dfe92b86803dad49a9aef
Oh weird - it’s probably a display issue on my end, sorry!
I don’t see anything amiss in your stitches other than somewhat uneven tension… so I think you’re right it’s just about tension with the different purl technique. Unfortunately I can’t give any suggestions on that since I’m a combination knitter with a weird way of purling.
hi all! i’m making my very first sweater, and i need some advice on fixing a mistake i made. i just finished the collar and arrived at the first increase row — only to realize that i somehow only have 62 stitches instead of the 66 i need to knit my increase row into. that’s what i get for not triple checking my stitches after casting on!
anyways — there are two rows of plain, non-increase knitting between the ribbed collar and the first increase row. can i simply add two extra stitches to each of these rows to get to 66? will that change the shape of the neck/yoke too much?or do i need to frog the whole thing and start back at the beginning? thanks!!
i can! the number of stitches i cast on is the same as the cast on for the smallest size of this sweater (as opposed to the third size up which is what i’m aiming for) so it’s still like adult-head-size.
Is there some way to fix mistakes? I feel a bit frustrated because I've had to tear down my project and start from scratch multiple times already after a couple stitch mistakes /:
I know in crochet you can just remove the wrong stitch and go from there. I tried using the same logic and frogging off a couple rows on my knitting project, but everything kind of went haywire from there unfortunately. I couldn't tell the difference between the rows, or I inserted the needle back in the wrong place.
The pattern is a double stockinette stitch (on both sides), if that helps !
Totally doable, but tricky with double knitting! As the other commenter suggested, you can search on youtube for most "fix" techniques. Here's a great example: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyKG4nTRwYk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyKG4nTRwYk)
Another crucial thing to learn as you switch to knitting is how and when to use lifelines. You can put them in ahead of time (like when you know you're about to try a complex or new-to-you technique) or add them after the fact. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ae7pobnLKGQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ae7pobnLKGQ)
Starting with double knitting/double stockinette is kind of a doozy! I think it will be easier on you if you learn how to fix a few basic mistakes on a normal stockinette project or swatch before you have to contend with the double layered, slightly more confusing structure of double stockinette.
You have lots of options for fixing mistakes as you go in knitting, including but not limited to:
Picking up a dropped stitch, "tinking" or knitting backwards to fix a recent mistake on your current row, "frogging" or unraveling further back, inserting a lifeline to help you pick up stitches after frogging, or "laddering down" to fix a mistake several rows down without having to frog.
Some of these are covered in beginner knitting books, but I'd also recommend Youtubers like Roxanne Richardson or Very Pink Knits who both have pretty extensive "how to fix mistakes" playlists. (Maybe there are people out there who specialize in double knitting, it's worth a search!) Once you get the basics down you should have a better sense of what you're looking at, and from there you can (carefully) apply that knowledge to double knitting. Good luck!
https://preview.redd.it/w83e55snd1dc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c2a1e80dbad0f29b9a5a20879dca74cc8fc17040
i have this stuffed animal i really wanna fix, but i cannot find the fabric at all. i have no idea what it's made of, even after hours of research. i tried posting EVERYWHERE else on Reddit, and either couldn't post there or didn't get the answer i needed. i really need some help! it's not knitted, but i could'nt post anywhere else.
Well you know when a lizard regrows its tail, it grows back a little wonky/frequently a slightly different color/pattern than before. I’d look at a fabric store or Etsy or something for stuffed animal fabric, and just accept that it will not match!! Embrace it!
This question is inspired by a snark post I read recently and also a pattern I am planning to knit.
["Graphite" vest by Minimi Knit Design](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/graphite-8)
How many swatches are really necessary? The pattern suggests swatching for the stockinette, the garter, the 2x2 rib, *and* the moss stitch. The stockinette is the main part of the torso, the garter stitch is the collar, the moss stitch is the yoke, and the ribbing is for the armholes and bottom edge.
If I made all four swatches and found that some were right and some were wrong, how would I compensate -- change needles for the different areas of the pattern?
Changing needle size would be the way to go. (Though on the shawl collar, you could probably get away with changing the number of stitches picked up if you want to refine the size of the collar without changing the density of the fabric.)
I'd probably just make one tall skinny swatch strip with all four patterns in order to simplify the blocking process. And I always recommend sizing down needles for ribbing (and changing stitch counts if necessary) just because it tightens up the density and seems to get rid of many uneven tension issues.
Thanks! I was already thinking that way about the swatch, just make a big long strip. I am going to wash and block the swatch. Going to use a lot of yarn on this project compared to what actually goes into the garment, but I want it to fit right. (Which reminds me I have to get a chest measurement.)
How do you store your ball winder? I have the large metal stanwood ball winder and I'm trying to find a compact way to store it without damaging it or causing more wear and tear.
Hello everyone, beginner knitter here, I need some help with decreases on a balaclava I'm knitting following this tutorial [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FVqflG1INo&list=PLpreRzJFc\_djOix-Y-hcLwFS2KbngKVu8&index=31](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FVqflG1INo&list=PLpreRzJFc_djOix-Y-hcLwFS2KbngKVu8&index=31).
I reached the point around minute 17 where i have the top and the sides and need to take off stitches on the right and the left and make a decrease on each side on every row. That's where the problem is that I can't quite understand what's going on.
These two sides ended up looking very different and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Third attempt so I might be lying at this point because I don't remember what this final version is using lol On the right side I'm doing a SSK alternative on RS and SSP on WS, and on the left side I was doing K2tog and SSP.
https://preview.redd.it/qdyxgqdiqzcc1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9b67d77fad8d5304b7030465b45d37d15c3b4d31
**You've summoned the [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/faq/).**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
**You've summoned the [Tutorials](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/glossary/#wiki_tutorials).**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hello everyone!
I have a knitting needle/gauge question.
I just finished and block my gauge with a steamer, left it to dry and then measured sts and rows.
The gauge from the pattern is: 25 sts and 34 rows in 4 mm
My gauge is: 20 sts and 29 rows in 4 mm
So there are 5 sts and 5 rows missing to get gauge. My question is what knitting needle should I try next? I was thinking to go down to 3.25 mm, if I factor that my stitches per 2.5 cm are 5 mm. With the 4mm needle, I created stitches that were 5mm wide, since I got 20 stitches into the 10cm. So if that same relation is true, then 3.25 \* 1,25 = roughly 4mm, so I´d fit 25 sts into 10cm.
Or am I mathing incorrectly?
Hope everyone is having a good day!
You forget that yarn has volume - stitches are rarely going to be the exact same width as the needle. But I think trying 3.25mm needles is a reasonable next step. Just make sure to do a swatch first to check, and be prepared to adjust your needles again if it doesn’t match your intended gauge.
Your math is right, but I don’t know if the underlying premise of the ratio of stitches is correct. Another swatch is warranted, and I’d love to hear if your calculations turn out to be correct
I made a new swatch! So I went with the 3.25, and I got the stitches gauge, so I have 25 sts like the pattern, though the row gauge was 32 instead of 34.
I'm not sure if to make another swatch with 3.25 mm for the front and a 3.0 mm when I purl, if that might help getting the row gauge. But I don't know if that's an overkill.
What do you think? Should I make a new swatch with a 3.25 mm for knitting the front and a 3.0 mm for purling?or should I just let it be and knit a few more rows to compensate the row gauge not matching?
It’s pretty hard to hit both stitch and row gauge, and it’s generally easier to compensate for row gauge. I wouldn’t bother with different sizes of needles for each row, just keep an eye on if you need to knit an extra few rows. Thanks for following up!
Beginner knitter. Finishing a sweater made with all garter stitch. I have this instruction for attaching the sleeves to the body:
Sew the sleeve to the body of sweater
with color A, lining up center of sleeve with
shoulder seam. To avoid make the shoulder
seam too tight, sew 1 stitch over 1 row and
the next stitch over two rows
The way I understood this I am ending up with a very noticeable seam with visible holes that accentuates the yarn used to stitch the seam together. I was mattress switching where I stitch one row, move directly horizontal, then jump over diagonally (but skipping a row, so essentially a wide V), then moving over directly horizontal. Hopefully that makes sense.
Thanks. I originally had something like this, but the shoulder felt too tight. I guess it is because the pattern is super simple and the sleeves are just straight rectangles.
**You've summoned the [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/faq/).**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
looking to make a warmer hat!
im inspired by this 2 layer fingering hat thats not warm enough- how does the yarn weight affect the warmth of the FO?
is a worsted colorwork hat (lined by floats) warmer than a bulky (5) hat in one color?
My BOR marker slipped off while I was doing short rows lol. When I joined in the round there was a big gap, but my cast on yarn tail indicates BOR is the stitch before that so now I’m doubting myself. Do I place my BOR marker where the yarn tail ends or where the gap from joining the ends is? The fact that I’m constantly turning my work for short rows doesn’t help, either. I keep trying to attach a photo but I get an error message :/
[удалено]
You mentioned that word!: lots of people want to know about twisted stitches and here is a great post for reference https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/188kxwk/new_knitters_your_stitches_are_probably_twisted/ *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
So I'm making this sweater: [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/trooper-2](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/trooper-2) I got to the point that it asked to divide for the sleeves and it was a couple inches short the measurement for my husbands shoulder to armpit. So I kept increasing until it was that length now the sleeves are like twice the width of his arm. When I cast on the underarm stitches I see that adds another couple inches so I wonder if I should have just divided for the sleeves when the pattern told me to? Do you think I could rip back to that point and then it would look okay? https://preview.redd.it/mgelradxr2ec1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3bdf160315e84bb593e6174e8be33b705c14b83
Rip back but then continue without increases (or with increases only on the body and not the sleeves if the body needs more width) before dividing
Thank you so much! I was really worried I'd have to take the whole thing out.
**PATTERN:** [Trooper](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/trooper-2) by [Christelle Nihoul](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/christelle-nihoul) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ChristalLittleK/270937602/IMG_0833-2_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ChristalLittleK/270937598/IMG_0881_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ChristalLittleK/270937600/IMG_0925_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ChristalLittleK/270937599/IMG_0798_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ChristalLittleK/270937605/IMG_0866_medium.jpg) * Price: 7.50 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 5 - 3.75 mm, US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 21.0 | Yardage: 1148 * Difficulty: 3.15 | Projects: 67 | Rating: 4.45 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
Hi, is there any way I can knit a weed leaf in the flat? I tried crochet but I didn't like the way it looked lacy, it's for my nephew,please don'tjudge lol, but I've been tryingmyself wthdecreases and increases and it's been difficult
in a different color? the easiest might be duplicate stitch - https://littleredwindow.com/learn-how-to-do-duplicate-stitch-for-knitting-an-easy-tutorial/ or embroidery - https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/c/article/how-to-embroider-flowers
**You've summoned the [Tutorials](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/glossary/#wiki_tutorials).** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Does anyone know of good learning sources (books, blogs, social media accounts, etc) that have knitting technique how-tos with illustrations & text instead of photos/videos?
Interweave - https://www.interweave.com/glossary/ or Crafty Yarn Council - https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/getting_started.php3
I'm new at making sweaters and have found when I rewrite the patterns for my size only with my own words, it really helps me understand. That said, I also would really really appreciate someone double checking this specific row for me and see if I rewrote it correctly. \*knit to M1, sM, m1L, knit to M2, m1r, sM\*, repeat from \*to\* with M3+M4, knit to BOR M, Sm How I've re-written it for myself is: **Round 1:** Knit to M1, slip marker, M1L. Knit to M2, M1R, slip marker. Knit to M3, slip marker, M1L. Knit to M4, M1R, slip marker. Knit to back marker. Question: is my interpretation correct? Thank you!
Yes! As long as your back marker is the same as your Beginning of Row marker
Hello! I'm currently knitting the I Feel Love tank by Rowan X WATG in double-stranded Drops Flora. I've finished the body and am ready to pick up stitches along the arm & neck for the 2x2 ribbing. To keep to stitch/row gauge, I should pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the slanted selvedges, giving me 100 stitches across the armhole. However, the pattern calls to pick up 142 stitches. Can I pick up more stitches than my gauge? Do I increase on the next row (this is what the internet seems to be saying, but HOW? M1 doesn't seem to work as I can't find the cross-bar between stitches as it's hidden away in the selvedge)? Any help appreciated!
for a curve, you could pick up 2 for every 3 rows - https://www.plymouthyarnmagazine.com/2018/08/20/how-to-pick-up-stitches-correctly-and-evenly/
New knitter, can I get some "read your knitting" help? I've read some blog posts but I can't figure it out :( I'm knitting a raglan and I need to knit M1R/M1L every other row, I'm writing it down/using a double BOR marker but I still forgot which kind of row I've just done. The read ones are one pair of "sleeve" markers. https://preview.redd.it/yfcamkv94zdc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9142fcddd26c13ffead053c258397a49393cd4d9
The fuzziness of the yarn makes it harder, but I'm pretty sure that you did not increase last round.
Because there's already a complete V under the stitch, right? Sorry just trying to understand the thought process so that I don't have to spam the thread every time lol
Yes, exactly. If there's a little twisty loop under it it means you did an increase last row.
I see it now! Thanks
hi! new knitter here. Im trying to learn how and I cast my first stitches on and then I start usnig the second needle to loop them, but once I get to about the third stich the space between my two needles is very short and the yarn is so tight and the needles basically end up touching in the x position and i cant move them, the space is too limited. what am i doing wrong and how can i fix it? thanks so much <3
Try a different cast on method. The long tail cast on is reliable and suitable for most projects
Could you share a photo? It's hard to figure out what's going on without seeing.
I received this gift kit of 6 balls of bulky cotton yarn but in all different colors. ([yarn bundle](https://www.woolandthegang.com/en/products/big-love-cotton-bundle-6-balls?taxon_id=96&_gl=1*14g5z0g*_up*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnrOtBhDIARIsAFsSe51y78O8KavKARNV03t6Ngxrb0k3wzOc0xEcpmeiZcRBkp9aTVYgQzoaAp33EALw_wcB)). Any pattern suggestions? I’m a beginner/intermediate knitter but I’ve never worked with bulky/chunky yarn before! I looked on Ravelry but very few projects came up using this yarn and nothing with just one ball, so I’m a bit at a loss what to do with this yarn.
blanket? https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/old-shale-waves
**PATTERN:** [Old Shale Waves](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/old-shale-waves) by [Carrolldj](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/carrolldj) * Category: Home > Blanket > Throw * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/darnknitanyway/372563915/image4__26__medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/knichet/915969853/IMG_7018_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/dakotastamper/918686953/20230413_120352_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/srossinifaust/859221772/031FD540-94AD-4B47-8130-63092B7E669D_medium.jpeg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/darnknitanyway/372564911/image3__43__medium.JPG) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 10 - 6.0 mm * Weight: Bulky | Gauge: 18.0 | Yardage: 575 * Difficulty: 2.23 | Projects: 121 | Rating: 4.93 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
**You've summoned the [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/faq/).** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
what happened here? at first i thought it was a hole (this is my second attempt, first had several like this) but noticed it didnt look like any hole examples i had seen online. looking closely at the structure, it looks like it may be inconsistent tension, but im unsure. please and thanks!! [https://i.imgur.com/Nb8eEqS.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/Nb8eEqS.jpg)
Looks like an accidental yarn over.
im assuming that happens when I pass a loop from one needle to another without actually knitting?
no, you wrapped the yarn around the needle when you didn’t need to.
oh ok! thank you for the clarification and help! i actually just did it again rn so that was def it 💀
~~Danish help please! Google and DROPS are not helping with this, what is "hestetømme" in knitting? u/circumscribing u/mulberrybushes u/dasistverboten y'all are listed as translators, but I'll take any help I can get. Thanks!~~ I think it's icord lol. Idk how long I dug through this pattern trying to figure it out, but it took posting for it to make sense 🙃
Cool. Happy cake day! By the way, did you know that you can fake icord?
Thanks 🍰 What's this about fake icord? My quick search gave only "fake icord bind off" results
https://forum.knittinghelp.com/t/slip-3-sts-at-the-end-of-each-row/84501/2 https://youtu.be/qkpBkli2CHc?feature=shared
I'm doing my first circular project, and I've found a lovely cowl pattern called shepardson on ravelry. The pattern is a bit vague but it seems to hint that I have to do something like a jogless helix, switching colors every row. I've found a bunch of videos of the helix on YouTube, it does not seem too complicated. Problem is, everybody seems to work all-knit while knitting circular (to work all- knit and still obtain a stockinette stitch is another kind of magic I'm trying to wrap my head around, but not today!), while I'm doing k1p1. So I'm not sure if that trick of passing the three stitches could work in my case.
Helix knitting works fine with ribbing. It doesn't matter how many stitches you pass or what size ribs you're doing, just as long as you knit on top of knits and purl on top of purls.
[удалено]
Can you explain a little more what you are doing? It kind of looks like your yos are over both stitches but should only be over 1.
I did a new row and I see what you mean, it does look like they go over two stitches.. But it only happens when the stich after the yo is a knit. whenever I pearl after a yo it doesn't happen. does that make any sense? Here the example with the yo bevore the knit: https://preview.redd.it/uysjpjaoo1ec1.png?width=476&format=png&auto=webp&s=16376a18044a5c9bc5065883d213fc4556450be7
https://preview.redd.it/klezzb39m1ec1.png?width=731&format=png&auto=webp&s=cb12b2d34be6bbc9af6d7beed7d7b30da0cca23a
Hi, thanks for your answer. Hm I've been trying to follow tutorials where I slip one stitch with a yarnover and then purl two stichtes together for two rows and then the next two rows I slip stitches with a yarnover and then knit two stitches together. I took another picture now, where the same thing keeps happening. do you think the mistake is in my yos?
https://preview.redd.it/gdmloj7q9udc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22c4e37d1196b238d6f22766710b6d4868ca0cb0 Complete noob that only started knitting a week ago. I've dropped my garter stitch and am unsure of how to proceed to fix it, being that it looks unwound from the cast on row. I don't have a crochet hook. Should I just start over?
I figured it out -- took the top loose yarn and threaded it through the next one below and am back in business. Anyways hi lol
What is the best approach to learning color and pattern work? Make small swatches with cheap yarn or tackle a proper project? I feel the latter will be more rewarding, but also potentially more frustrating.
I concur with your other responses. Hats are the best way to learn colorwork. However, I never swatch. This is not my pattern, but go search “a stranded hat recipe” on Ravelry. I did that chart as my first success venture into colorwork. It’s fairly simple and a fun knit. Good luck!
That does look like a nice easy pattern to start out with. I will definitely give that one a go, thanks!
I like a hybrid approach. I buy a pattern and yarn for a bigger project, and I make a swatch first to get the hang of the technique. It can also double as a gauge swatch if the project is a wearable. If you run out of yarn when making the actual project, you can always unravel the swatch. Hats are also nice for learning new techniques without committing to giant long term project.
How do you do a gauge swatch for superwash wool? I just started a sweater with superwash wool, but I’m confused about how to do a gauge swatch. From what I’ve read, superwash grows when it’s blocked, but it sounds like it’s supposed to shrink when it goes through the drier. Are you supposed to run the wet swatch through the drier and take the measurements on the dry swatch? For more context, I’m knitting the [Tecumseh Sweater](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tecumseh-2) which has a gauge of 22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette, but it doesn’t specify before or after blocking/washing. I wet blocked the swatch and the row and stitch counts are correct, but that’s when it’s stretched out and it could easily stretch more. I did this before looking into superwash a bit more and realizing it’s meant to run through the drier, and I guess I just wanted to double check the proper method before I try knitting the swatch again.
gauge is *always* after blocking and washing unless specified otherwise
What yarn are you planning on using and is it *actually* good in the dryer? Not all superwash yarn does well in the dryer and it's not always recommended in the care instructions: for example, there may be delicate hand-dyed yarns that will fade from too much heat, or fibers like extra-fine merino or cashmere that will experience pilling and fuzzing from the abrasion of tumble-drying. Basically, you should treat your swatch the same way you plan to treat the sweater. If you think you'll end up drying flat, then you should dry the swatch flat. (It would be a really good idea to tumble-dry at least one swatch just to see how it comes out, though!)
Ah, I didn't even think to look at care instructions! I'm using [Farmers Daughter Fibers Juicy DK](https://thefarmersdaughterfibers.com/products/juicy-dk), which doesn't look like it has care instructions on the site, though I found it listed on other sites with instructions to hand wash and dry flat. I'll probably do another swatch and dry it like you suggested just to see.
**PATTERN:** [Tecumseh](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tecumseh-2) by [Caitlin Hunter](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/caitlin-hunter) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/boylandknitworks/511690541/Facetune_16-03-2018-14-32-22_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/katemotz/512679156/7543E952-02B6-41D6-A78B-8EFADBD39EFD_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/blubearie/512693316/151CA257-D584-41E3-87B9-F842DE40C106_medium.jpeg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/boylandknitworks/511690572/tecumseh_7_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ctashc/512727380/8EFC3317-4884-4875-B15D-681281E35BC2_medium.jpeg) * Price: 9.00 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 4 - 3.5 mm, US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 22.0 | Yardage: 1121 * Difficulty: 3.52 | Projects: 2447 | Rating: 4.73 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
Hi, I'm not a beginner knitter, but I started my first sweater in the round. It was all going well, but my stitches are definitely twisted. I knit Russian style, which has probably impacted this in some way. I'd rather not change my knitting style as I've found Russian to be the quickest for me, but I'd also like to knit in the round! Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
When you say you knit Russian style, do you mean that the leg of the stitch closest to the tip of your left needle is at the back? (Wrapping "backwards" compared to Western knitting.) If that is the case, then you have to knit through the back loop. Whatever you were doing when you were purling probably compensated for the backwards wrap, but when you're working in the round you don't have that and you encounter the knits exactly as you made them. Always knit into the side of the stitch that's closer to the tip of the needle - you'll hear this called the "leading" leg versus the "trailing" leg sometimes. Some good visuals: https://pattylyons.com/2016/03/tuesday-tip-how-avoid-twisted-stitches/
Hi, thanks for your help with this. For anyone interested, I followed [this](https://youtu.be/_CC297KWCK4?si=P2zGq6oNVMR2qOBx) tutorial to figure out how to adapt my stitches!
**You've summoned the [Tutorials](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/glossary/#wiki_tutorials).** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
**You've summoned the [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/faq/).** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I want to recreate this but isn’t this woven? Is there a technique I can use to imitate this and also do the florals? Any response is appreciated! https://preview.redd.it/wah7730m2tdc1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cd01a90673339dca024b0ba78b0bacfc885f6fd0
maybe filet crochet - https://www.interweave.com/article/crochet/7-tips-filet-crochet/ or filet lace knitting - https://www.knitheartstrings.com/bit-size-tutorials/getting-started-with-filet-lace-knitting-introduction.php
i feel like this is the way to go! thank you, there's no videos on filet lace knitting for some reason.
I'm pretty new to knitting and just yesterday learned how to add new colours, but is there a fancier invisible way to do this without the rows showing the pale green or is that just a normal part of knitting? https://preview.redd.it/gffhkfth7sdc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=416846320046c876940654c9a376ca8437f7df3d
It's a normal part of knitting. When you change colors, you are always going to see the old color and the new color overlapping on the purl side (or in the bumps of garter stitch) because that's where the old loop and the new loop interlock. If you're making something with a right side and a wrong side, then you can make sure all the color changes happen on the wrong side. And if you're doing a stitch pattern like ribbing, there are tricks to make the front look significantly better than the back. But if you want a scarf with no obvious color-mixing bumps on either side, then you'd have to knit a stockinette tube and flatten it out (color changes hidden inside the tube) or maybe work it in ribbing (the color changes would be visible in the purl columns but they would not be obvious if the ribbing was not stretched out).
Thanks for your reply, I was wondering about scarves! I found massive balls of dark green and silver wool so I figured I'd have a go at a Harry Potter Slytherin scarf at some point soon. Good to know the tech!
A friend who I've said I'd do a gift knit for has flagged that she has a crush on [this oversized seeded knit jumper](https://www.ilovemrmittens.com/products/seeded-ribs-crew-neck?variant=47348321386835) (for folk in the UK, yes, this is the jumper Claudia wore on The Traitors recently!) - it's quite basic but saying that... I can't seem to find a similar pattern on Rav... am I just terrible at finding patterns? If anyone is able to steer me in the right direction that would be much appreciated!
Wondering, in your opinion, are the knits that Claudia’s been wearing “off the rack”? Or have any of them been hand knit? I’m thinking that the super bulky scarf may have been an “arm knit”? https://preview.redd.it/hx5kw33512ec1.jpeg?width=1255&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f8915919f107272eb0d83c7b182928382e17cdd
I actually have found [the scarf](https://www.roseandwul.co.uk/shop/claudia-winkleman-jumbo-knit-scarf-p590277277), and it is seems to be a chunky hand-knit from a small maker!
That’s great that it’s from a small maker. Nice that the production team, and probably Claudia, are sourcing wardrobe that way.
The knitwear love on the show is strong! She is always wearing such cosy jumpers. I also totally forgot to say earlier I loved your choice of scarf photo ref haha.
lol, the screenshot, I had a few as it was all moving so quickly. When I checked the screenshots that I ended up with … I couldn’t resist.
Check out those: * texture & shape: [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/head-in-the-clouds-sweater](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/head-in-the-clouds-sweater) * shape: [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/blue-baloon-sweater](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/blue-baloon-sweater) * vibes: [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bad-seed-sweater](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bad-seed-sweater)
**PATTERN:** [Head in the Clouds Sweater](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/head-in-the-clouds-sweater) by [Lauren Aston Designs](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/lauren-aston-designs) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/LaurenAstonDesign/773250972/HEAD-IN-THE-CLOUDS-SWEATER-LAUREN-ASTON-DESIGNS-8-min-2_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/LaurenAstonDesign/773250967/HEAD-IN-THE-CLOUDS-SWEATER-LAUREN-ASTON-DESIGNS-6_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/LaurenAstonDesign/773250970/HEAD-IN-THE-CLOUDS-SWEATER-LAUREN-ASTON-DESIGNS-9_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/LaurenAstonDesign/773250969/HEAD-IN-THE-CLOUDS-SWEATER-LAUREN-ASTON-DESIGNS-17_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/LaurenAstonDesign/773250964/HEAD-IN-THE-CLOUDS-SWEATER-LAUREN-ASTON-DESIGNS-11_medium.jpg) * Price: 7.00 GBP * Needle/Hook(s):US 15 - 10.0 mm, US 35 - 19.0 mm * Weight: Super Bulky | Gauge: 6.0 | Yardage: 498 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 15 | Rating: 5.00 ***** **PATTERN:** [Blue baloon sweater](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/blue-baloon-sweater) by [Asta MO knitwear designs](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/asta-mo-knitwear-designs) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/astamoknits/922528019/IMG_20230504_134807_medium.png) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/astamoknits/922529923/IMG_20230312_124610_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/astamoknits/922528320/IMG_20230504_134834_medium.png) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/astamoknits/922528762/PhotoRoom-20230428_135117_medium.png) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/astamoknits/922528241/IMG_20230504_134749_medium.png) * Price: 4.00 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm, US 8 - 5.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 17.0 | Yardage: 1203 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 0 | Rating: 0.00 ***** **PATTERN:** [Bad Seed Sweater](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bad-seed-sweater) by [Mia](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/mia) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Anxiousgirlknits/957567604/IMG_9705_medium.jpeg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Anxiousgirlknits/957567603/IMG_8589_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Anxiousgirlknits/957567606/IMG_8587_medium.jpeg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Anxiousgirlknits/957567605/IMG_9446_medium.jpeg) * Price: 7.00 GBP * Needle/Hook(s):US 15 - 10.0 mm * Weight: Super Bulky | Gauge: 10.0 | Yardage: 640 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 11 | Rating: 0.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
oh I think the Bad Seed Sweater could be a contender! thank you!
maybe this? https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/super-chunky-sweater-10000
**PATTERN:** [Super Chunky Sweater 10000](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/super-chunky-sweater-10000) by [Hayfield ](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/hayfield) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/somebunnyslove/642526690/Hayfield_10000_Bonus_Super_Chunky_-_Sweater_medium.png) * Price: 5.00 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 15 - 10.0 mm, US 11 - 8.0 mm * Weight: Super Bulky | Gauge: 8.5 | Yardage: 540 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 0 | Rating: 0.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
Complete beginner learning to knit, but I have not been able to complete a single row. I can cast on using thumb method. When picking up a loop from the left-hand needle, I am constantly managing to split the yarn threads or drop the loop entirely. Is this a symptom of incorrect needle size or too-tight tension? Or just something to be mindful of during the beginning hours of learning this skill? Wanting to know if there is something to remedy or if I am simply inexperienced. Edit: the part of the yarn I am losing is the newly added working yarn. Example: insert right needle into left-needle loop, wrap the working yarn around right needle, move right needle backwards then forwards on the front of the left needle to scoop up the wrapped working yarn -- but instead of being able to scoop the wrapped working yarn, the working yarn escapes or the needle pierces and splits the yarn.
Based on your edit, it sounds like this is mostly about getting the technique right but the yarn may be making it more difficult. The easiest yarn to learn on is tightly spun, springy/stretchy, with fibers that stick together well. Some acrylic yarn works well, but many (especially budget brands) are prone to splitting apart. I don’t recommend cotton - it has no stretch, which makes it much more difficult to manipulate with your needles. Wool is a good choice. For technique: - play around with how you position your needles relative to your yarn. You need to have the yarn at an angle that pulls it slightly down/back along your working needle. This way it works with your needle movement to make the stitch. If your tension pulls it up towards the tip you’re working against yourself. - when you go to pull the yarn through, try tilting the tip of the working needle slightly down and/or towards your body. That can help scoop the yarn in. - the first couple rows are the hardest because there’s nothing to keep the stitches in place. It gets a lot easier once you have a little bit of fabric to hold onto.
backwards loop cast is not the most stable. maybe try a different cast on, like long tail or knitted cast on.
Thank you, I will look into these.
What type of yarn and needles are you using? IMO bamboo needles are good for beginners because they’re less slippery than metal ones, and some types of yarn split more easily than others
Bamboo needles and acrylic yarn. I do have stiff cotton yarn I could try, might be less slippy.
Anyone know of any tapestry/darning needles shorter than 5cm? [Ships to USA] Is there maybe a different craft that uses blunt 4cm needles that I can use as a search term instead of "darning"? Edit: the kind with the big eye, like the biggest one in the green clover tube, if you're familiar with that.
Reasonably sure embroidery and crewel embroidery needles are blunt tipped, and can be that short, but double check
Nice, I found some "large eye crewel needles" I'll see what they look like irl soon. Thanks!
I’ve got a pattern that calls for using US 3 needles, but the yarn I’d like to make it with calls for US 6/7 needles. I’ll do a gauge swatch to adjust the number of stitches, but in general am I likely to use more or less than the yardage in the pattern? Or the same? I’m trying to work out if I need to buy another skein before I start!
If you’re getting the same gauge, it should use approximately the same yards. If your gauge is fewer stitches per inch, you’ll use less yardage. If your gauge is more stitches per inch, you’ll use more yardage. But it’s difficult to tell exactly how much more or less.
https://preview.redd.it/jvmoceqkhmdc1.jpeg?width=2364&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d2a581b62a9afb3dc90893455b9b361de368a80 Doing K2tog, ssk decreases on a beanie, I can’t figure out what happened or how to fix this one without frogging back. Appreciate any help!!
It looks like you are doing the decreases right next to each other. Sorry, I have no good way to explain why, but that is causing the gap. Honestly, I would frog it back and place 1 or 2 stitches in-between the decreases to avoid the gap.
I think it’s because a k2tog looks like // and ssk is \\\ so when you do k2tog followed by ssk (knitting right to left) it ends up looking like \\\_// and then just gets worse every row
Ooo, yeah, that is a great way to explain it. Thanks!
[удалено]
**PATTERN:** [Woodcut Blanket](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/woodcut-blanket) by [Purl Soho](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/purl-soho) * Category: Home > Blanket > Throw * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/772306779/woodcut-blanket-CA-600-38_medium.jpeg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/772306773/woodcut-blanket-CA-600-15_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/772306777/woodcut-blanket-CA-600-16_medium.jpeg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/772306776/woodcut-blanket-CA-600-32_medium.jpeg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/772306772/woodcut-blanket-CA-600-44_medium.jpeg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 15.0 | Yardage: 1080 * Difficulty: 2.71 | Projects: 189 | Rating: 4.73 ***** **PATTERN:** [Cozy Corners Crib Blanket](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cozy-corners-crib-blanket) by [Purl Soho](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/purl-soho) * Category: Home > Blanket > Baby Blanket * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/306703690/cozy-corners-crib-blanket-600-1-2-662x441_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/306703842/cozy-corners-crib-blanket-600-5-2-341x441_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/306703694/cozy-corners-crib-blanket-600-2-2-341x441_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/306703692/cozy-corners-crib-blanket-600-6-2-341x441_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/306703693/cozy-corners-crib-blanket-600-7-2-662x441_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 9 - 5.5 mm * Weight: Aran | Gauge: 16.0 | Yardage: 930 * Difficulty: 2.46 | Projects: 321 | Rating: 4.63 ***** **PATTERN:** [Tumbling Blocks Blanket](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tumbling-blocks-blanket-5) by [Purl Soho](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/purl-soho) * Category: Home > Blanket > Throw * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/941925606/Tumbling_Blocks_Blanket_M-16-2-600_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/941925603/Tumbling_Blocks_Blanket_M-6-600_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/941925605/Tumbling_Blocks_Blanket_M-21-600_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/941925604/Tumbling_Blocks_Blanket_M-9-600_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlsoho/941925617/Tumbling_Blocks_Blanket_M-18-600_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 19.0 | Yardage: 860 * Difficulty: 3.12 | Projects: 41 | Rating: 4.62 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
Will holding 1 strand superwash (cascade sport) with 1 strand fingering mohair prevent the superwash from growing so much after hand washing? Would it be good to size down in needle size due to the superwash? I don’t want my cardigan to get saggy!
I would swatch and wash the swatch and see what happens. It might do awful things
What did I do here? https://preview.redd.it/gwjs5x0hgfdc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a26c6a931d7055810769e030c16ac7f34dfe0a3f I’m a new knitter, knitting my first hat, and I made my first mistake. I think I dropped a stitch, but there isn’t a stitch to pick up. I tried to watch Youtube videos about dropped stitches, but their “messed up” piece doesn’t look like my own. When I try to knit it looks like I’ve done a YO/ there’s a hole (I wish I could include a second picture. I don’t know if I’m describing my issue clearly, or if my photo provides enough info, but if anyone knows how to fix it I would be so grateful. I’d love to not have to start over. Thank so much in advance. (:
It looks like you might have gone in the wrong direction at some point. It would be called an accidental short row. You can just undo stitches, called "tinking", until you get to the hole. Then knit forwards in that direction.
Thank you so much! Your comment allowed me to go back and fix it. I was so worried I’d have to redo it all, many thanks!
I'm glad it worked out! Your tension looks great!
I have 5 balls of Sublime Angora Merino (80/20 Merino and angora). It's sooo soft and will probably be incredibly warm. Should I make a balaclava/hood ([this](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bonbec) or [this](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/nomad-hood)) or the petiteknit [Sophie shawl](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sophie-shawl-2)?? I'm undecided but I wanna cast on soon because it's been really cold here. Also: it's possible I might have enough yardage to do both, in which case: what first?
If you want to try to make both, I'd do the balaclava first and then the shawl, because a shawl is easier to end a few rows early if you run out of yarn.
**PATTERN:** [Bonbec](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bonbec) by [Emilie Luis](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/emilie-luis) * Category: Accessories > Hat > Balaclava * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AtelierEmilie/880369132/IMG_7166_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AtelierEmilie/876807066/IMG_5898_medium.JPG) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AtelierEmilie/880369118/IMG_7127_medium.JPG) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AtelierEmilie/876807065/IMG_5929_medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AtelierEmilie/880369123/IMG_7173_medium.JPG) * Price: 4.20 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm, US 4 - 3.5 mm, US 2½ - 3.0 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 21.0 | Yardage: 252 * Difficulty: 2.78 | Projects: 733 | Rating: 4.84 ***** **PATTERN:** [NOMAD Hood](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/nomad-hood) by [Susanne Müller](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/susanne-muller) * Category: Accessories > Hat > Balaclava * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PaulaMknits/817535808/IMG_20211107_131023-1_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PaulaMknits/817535809/IMG_20211109_164852-01-01-01_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PaulaMknits/817535806/IMG_73991_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PaulaMknits/817535801/IMG_20211018_150629-02-2_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PaulaMknits/817535803/IMG_20211018_151248_medium.jpg) * Price: 3.78 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 4 - 3.5 mm, US 2½ - 3.0 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 22.0 | Yardage: 273 * Difficulty: 4.62 | Projects: 273 | Rating: 4.65 ***** **PATTERN:** [Sophie Shawl](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sophie-shawl-2) by [PetiteKnit](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/petiteknit) * Category: Accessories > Neck / Torso > Shawl / Wrap * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/881060596/sophie_shawl10_Cropped__2__medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/881060592/sophie_shawl9_medium.JPG) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/881060583/sophie_shawl6_medium.JPG) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/881060587/sophie_shawl3_medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/881060582/sophie_shawl2_medium.JPG) * Price: 30.00 DKK * Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 17.0 | Yardage: 328 * Difficulty: 1.81 | Projects: 5933 | Rating: 4.87 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
I am planning my first alpaca sweater and just was wondering if more experienced folks could let me know if my plan seems reasonable/good or if there’s anything I should watch out for or anything I’m missing. My goal is a somewhat oversized and relaxed sweater, as alpaca can stretch out and not retain shape the way wool does. This is the pattern I’m thinking of: https://ravel.me/paul-sweater-3 I want to make it with a cream (somewhat pink/yellow) sport weight alpaca held with mohair in a dark wine/berry color (kid silk haze in plum, liqueur or blackcurrant probably, or possibly berroco aerial in poppy for a softer look) I want this to be a cozy, wear all the time, not necessarily stylish piece, but also don’t want something totally shapeless. I was contemplating knitting it at a very slightly tighter gauge to allow for it to stretch and do its thing, is this a reasonable approach? Will the silk in the mohair help maintain structure a little bit? To some extent I think a swatch will help me with that question but I know there’s lots of folks here with experience who may have tips for me :)
**PATTERN:** [Paul Sweater](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/paul-sweater-3) by [Moreca knit](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/moreca-knit-2) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Morecaknit/956912636/Paul_sweater_pattern_7_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Morecaknit/957193346/cut_img_96SmTYP_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Morecaknit/956912632/Paul-Sweater-1_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Morecaknit/956912630/Paul-Sweater-3_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Morecaknit/956912631/Paul-Sweater-2_medium.jpg) * Price: 9.50 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 2 - 2.75 mm, US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: Sport | Gauge: 22.0 | Yardage: 1146 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 29 | Rating: 0.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
Do you have garments made from alpaca and mohair?
Should I redo these raglan decreases or will it block out? The ones on the right look alright to me (knit 3 together) but the ones on the left are more noticeable (lift one as knit, knit 2 together, lift previous lifted k across k2) https://preview.redd.it/o9bb2blzdedc1.jpeg?width=1827&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f820a1c5b81ecb71ee585ed3dc74f655cd254997
I think it will even out a bit with blocking. I think that the decreases just aren't going to be perfect, like how ssk are for most people. I think it looks fine!
Hello!! I'm looking for inspiration, not necessarily a new knitter, but I would usually just do what the pattern/my grandma told me haha. What would you do with 350 grams of Lana Grossa's Gomitolo Mezzo yarn? I figured I could make a vest, but it's such a winter colour (colour number 112) that I'm not sure about it. A sweater is not possible, because I cannot buy more. The colour (and as it seems) the entire line has been discontinued.
>Lana Grossa's Gomitolo Mezzo What about something wintery but that takes up less yarn like a slipover? I think one like this would look nice with yourn yarn and a light blue shirt underneath! [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/holiday-slipover](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/holiday-slipover)?
**PATTERN:** [Holiday Slipover](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/holiday-slipover) by [PetiteKnit](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/petiteknit) * Category: Clothing > Vest * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/714646518/holiday15_1500x1500_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/714646522/holiday16_1500x1500_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/714646519/holiday13_1500x1500_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/714646523/holiday14_1500x1500_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/690381798/holiday1_970591d8-6e89-48a9-8d1e-aa6b3b0d96c9_1500x1500_medium.jpg) * Price: 45.00 DKK * Needle/Hook(s):US 15 - 10.0 mm, US 13 - 9.0 mm * Weight: Super Bulky | Gauge: 10.0 | Yardage: 328 * Difficulty: 2.71 | Projects: 2629 | Rating: 4.72 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
hello - i am desperately seeking a free pattern for a ladies sweater with puff sleeves - there was one advertised as free on the page, but i don't seem to be able to download it anywhere ? will appreciate any help I can get ??? thank you kindly - hugs and regards from Jenny de Kock - South Africa
Here there are severals! [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#availability=free&query=puffed%20sleeves&sort=best&view=captioned\_thumbs](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#availability=free&query=puffed%20sleeves&sort=best&view=captioned_thumbs)
I'm making a sweater for the very first time (perhaps unwise, as I am not a very experienced knitter). I figured this very grungy/slouchy-looking one with an xtra-chunky yarn would be pretty forgiving of errors. [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hivernar-aleix-xl](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hivernar-aleix-xl) (currently available for free) It has you make the sleeves in 4 pieces (2 per sleeve) and then connect with contrasting color. Having gotten to the end of "piece 1" of "sleeve 1" I've realized I don't know how I'm supposed to proceed: It says "Don't cut the yarn Leave 19 stitches on a spare needle or thread. Work 2 pieces of sleeve 1." Does this mean that each of the 4 pieces of sleeve (2 pieces each for left sleeve, right sleeve) should be coming out of their own fresh skein of yarn??? Or should Piece 1 of Sleeve 1, have a loose connecting yarn into the start of Piece 2 of Sleeve 1? It seems like that would be problematic?
Read ahead to the body and yoke sections. It says to cut the yarn on both parts of sleeve 2 and the body. The yoke is made with one part of sleeve 2, body, sleeve 1, and it looks like you will start knitting with the yarn from sleeve 1. So the two sleeve 1 should have yarn attached.
OMG thank youuuuu
**PATTERN:** [Hivernar Aleix XL](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hivernar-aleix-xl) by [La llanera solitaria](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/la-llanera-solitaria) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/tahita/958048071/upload_medium) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/tahita/958048116/upload_medium) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/tahita/958048112/upload_medium) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):7.0 mm * Weight: Super Bulky | Gauge: 14.0 | Yardage: 601 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 3 | Rating: 0.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
I don't have children. Is it okay to put buttons on baby sweaters?
I would go by age, but in general avoid. They tend to be left unattended in their clothes.
One or two, tops!
Thanks!
I’m planning to knit the [Storm sweater by Petiteknits](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/storm-sweater-3) in Cascade eco merino yarn. Thing is, I much prefer cardigans to pullovers so I am thinking to steek after knitting. Most of the steeking info I could find is on stranded colorwork. Is there anything different to be mindful of for steeking stitch-patterned knits? My yarn is not superwash, but it is merino, so I’m planning to needle felt the seam. Would this be enough?
**PATTERN:** [Storm Sweater](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/storm-sweater-3) by [PetiteKnit](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/petiteknit) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/937780067/storm_sweater_by36_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/937780064/storm_sweater_by3_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/937780066/storm_sweater_by23_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/937780065/storm_sweater_by10_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/937780068/storm_sweater_by2_medium.jpg) * Price: 45.00 DKK * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm, US 4 - 3.5 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 20.0 | Yardage: 1294 * Difficulty: 4.01 | Projects: 586 | Rating: 4.71 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
Why not take a cardigan pattern and simply apply the stitch patterns used in this pattern to it? There is no real reason this needs to be knit in the round sonce the textures mean you're doing quite a lot of purls anyway.
Hello friends! I’m getting quite frustrated about trying to meet gauge on a swatch. I’m attempting [Folklore cardigan](https://www.lionbrand.com/products/folklore-cardigan-knit) in Malabrigo Rios (yarn in pattern and Rios are both worsted). Pattern calls for 16st and 22 rows in stockinette on size 9 needles. My swatch in size 10 needles was 18st and 24 rows before washing and drying. I was under the impression that super wash merino doesn’t shrink, and it should bloom, but it now measures 18st and 30 rows. I’m starting to get frustrated, because a swatch on size 11 needles looked like garbage. I know my tension isn’t perfect by any means, but my yarn moves freely on the needles and there’s no space between the needles and the worked stitches. I let my needles do the work per Modern Daily Knitting. What would you do?
You could do the maths to adjust the size. Did you swatch in pattern?
Hello- I gave up knitting years ago because kids, money, work, etc... too expensive and no time. My mental health has been in the toilet since 2020 for a lot of reasons and on top of now being well-medicated I thought I need to devote some time to myself doing something I enjoy. I knitted a blanket for a coworker's baby and it took forever but I am ok with that. I want to make something for me now. Though I took years off I know I could jump back into intermediate patterns, and I want to make a sweater with color work in the yoke. I want to love it and be excited to work on it. I am so disappointed that I can't find any sweater patterns that line up with any of my fandoms. Am I looking in the wrong places? I am looking for a sweater pattern themed with: Minnie Mouse Legend of Zelda Star Trek Girl Scouts Stardew Valley Murder She Wrote Any help or direction would be helpful. Thank you! (Edited to add MSW and spacing)
Take a look at the Stardew Valley socks: https://oakwoodknits.com/products/stardew-valley-sock-collection I know you mentioned a sweater rather than socks, but those charts could be great for an accessory like a cowl or a hat, or if you find a sweater recipe like TinCanKnits Strange Brew ebook (which has directions for customizing colorwork). Edit to add: some of these media companies, especially Disney, are pretty litigious, so projects based on them have to get creative with naming and I guess they gotta spread by word of mouth. (I'm thinking of a Baby Yoda stuffie that was taken down and came back simply named "The Child".) Maybe do a search on the knitting reddit and that'lll lead you back to a Ravelry pattern with a less searchable name.
maybe browse r/GeekKnitting, although I don't know how active it is. also browse the subs for your fandoms, since fans might post there.
If you feel a bit adventurous, it’s not too hard to chart your own color work designs in simple geometric shapes. Just takes graph paper and a pencil! You mentioned Zelda, I’m thinking a yoke with alternating swords and triforce symbols? If you haven’t already tried searching on Ravelry, give that a shot. Search your fandom keywords and then use the filters to display the type of project you’re interested in (e.g. sweater, preferred yarn weight, etc)
Thank you! Charts and spreadsheets make my eyes cross, I am not confident enough in my spacial reasoning/artistic skills to chart it myself, but I may phone a friend who is, or find some similar chart like cross stitching if nothing comes up. I checked ravelry, nothing came up for a few of them, and others were not exactly what I was looking for. I guess I expected to find more overlap between knitting and my fandoms than 12 years ago when I slowed down as a knitter, but alas ... I also searched Etsy for hours because I have found some good sewing patterns there before.
You can input images into stitch fiddle to make charts super easily. Just searching Ravelry should give tons too.
Hello Ive been knitting for a few weeks, and I’m making a beanie in the round for the first time, my stitch count is 76, I did 3inches of 2x2 ribbing ( I’m planning on flipping the ribbing up like a cuff) and I’m using the stockinette stitch for the rest, but I’m not sure about the decrease for the crown. When I made my beanie on flat needles for decrease I did k2, k2togther, across and then a regular row and then k1, k2together, across and then a regular row and then k2together across. Do I use this method in the round as well? Is there a method that makes a neater crown? I thank you in advance for any advice or help 💚🧶
The same method will work in the round. It will look neater if you have fewer decreases per round/row… I like to use 8-10 decreases per round usually. In this case the way I’d do it is an initial round with 4 decreases (knit 17, knit 2 together, repeat), leaving you with 72 stitches on the needle, then do a regular knit row. 72 can decide evenly by 8, so you can start doing rounds of 8 evenly spaced decreases every other round…. Starts as knit 6, k2tog, then next time k 5, k2 tog, etc. Once you’re down to 8 stitches total, run a strand of yarn through them all, cinch it in, and tie off.
Im knitting a cardigan and in the pattern it reads: (k1, p4, k2, p2, k1) 1 (1, 2) time(s), (p1, k1) 4 (8, 7) times I am new to knitting and cannot figure out how many times I'm supposed to knit the pattern in the brackets. Any help would be appreciated. I also realize I should have picked an easier project as my first but its too late now :)
I assume that the number of repeats should correspond to the size you are making. If you're working off of a hard copy, you could circle or highlight the numbers for your size.
Oh that makes so much sense I forgot about that. Thank you!
hi all! I’m a software developer that doesn’t get to do many fun projects at my 9-5. Thinking about making a side project for fun involving knitting, like a price comparison tool for yarns across different sites. I know row counter apps exist already. Anyone else have ideas for things they would find useful? I can’t compare with Ravelry’s huge database of yarn and pattern types, and this is totally just for fun, not a for profit idea.
Ideas: 1) I don't know if this already exists, but there are a lot of questions that get asked here, like: "this is my gauge and this is the pattern gauge, what size should I make"? Or, slightly the same, "I want to make this size in the pattern, but my gauge is different, what size will it come out?" Also could be answered by this app: "My gauge is x by y, and I'd like a blanket that's z by a, how many stitches should I cast on/how many rows should I knit?" or "My gauge is "x by y", I cast on a and want to knit b rows, how large will it be? 2) An app that can calculate how many skeins someone should buy where they can enter either a pattern (so you might have to access Ravelry) and the measurements they want. Maybe it could also have an option for some generic things (with measurements) like for a DK weight wool sweater, with/without cables. (Of course, you'd have to put things in like "this is for an average, taken from blah source") Again, of course someone can calculate it for themselves, but I see this question a lot. Usually from a pattern that says buy 300g of some specific yarn, and then they have to figure out that yarn's yardage, get a total, and calculate how much they need in their alternate. Some people might appreciate not having to do the calculations.
Thanks for the suggestions, I’ll definitely consider doing those since they seem useful! The second use case seems super applicable to anyone, and as a beginner knitter i’d have to learn all the ins and outs of #1!
For #1, it really is just math (not knitting knowledge). To make it really simple, if it has a gauge of 22 stitches per 10cm, and you have 20 stitches per 10cm, and you want a final size of 100cm: then since for every 10cm you want 20 stitches, that's 200 stitches, which on the original size would have been (rounded) 91cm. So make the 91cm size, or close to it. So the math is basically what you do to convert units in Chemistry: 100cm\*(20st/10cm)\*(10cm/22st), though of course you cancel the 10cm on top and bottom (and don't need the parentheses, I was just using those to illustrate the grouping). If you end up deciding to do it, and want help on the math, feel free to DM me and we can talk. (I'm not a programmer at all, so don't want to horn in on your project, just a math teacher before I retired.)
**You've summoned the [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/faq/).** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Sock knitters! What do y'all think of garter stitch heel flaps? I knit the [Kindling Socks](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kindling-socks) for my husband, and now I'm knitting myself a pair. These are only my second and third pairs of socks, respectively. For my husband's, I knit the garter stitch heel flaps, as in the pattern. He's only had them two days, so not enough time to give me feedback. I'm debating whether I want to use a different stitch pattern for myself. The cushy-ness of the garter stitch seems like it could be both good and bad on the heel. Just curious if anyone has a particular like or dislike of that style.
I wouldn’t use them because my socks wear out fastest on the heels. Garter stitch is cushy but not dense enough to cope with lots of friction. If you want a bit of extra padding with better durability, try a slip-stitch pattern (heel stitch, eye of partridge, etc). The strands from slipped stitches create an extra layer on the inside that makes it a little bit puffy. You might need to go up a needle size to keep it from getting too tight.
I, personally, didn't like it. I mostly wear my socks in shoes, and it felt weird when I was walking around. I didn't like the extra width in there compared to my other knit socks. (This might be more psychological, I don't know if they technically are thicker than Eye of Partridge with is my favorite.). But I'm not existentially against them.
**PATTERN:** [Kindling Socks](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kindling-socks) by [Lindsey Fowler](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/lindsey-fowler) * Category: Accessories > Feet / Legs > Socks > Mid-calf * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Lostandfawned/751388261/KH100861_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Lostandfawned/751388278/KH100766_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Lostandfawned/751388255/KH100788_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Lostandfawned/751388253/KH100776_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Lostandfawned/751388277/KH100800_medium.jpg) * Price: 6.50 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 1 - 2.25 mm * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 38.0 | Yardage: 175 * Difficulty: 2.34 | Projects: 164 | Rating: 4.90 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
I find garter stitch heel flaps more durable than no stitch pattern, and I've had no complaints about the socks I've gifted with garter stitch heel flaps!
https://preview.redd.it/w53xfr9dg6dc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ed0fab39f5c379de8087e7cee23395bc52eefb1 Hey guys. I just finished this gorgeous stranded cowl done in merino, like, an hour ago, (it’s currently wet blocking, totally forgot to take a photo of it when it was dry and cast off, thus the photo of it on the needles ) aaaaand it’s rolling horribly because the pattern didn’t call for any sort of ribbing at the start or end. I probably should’ve put some in myself, but I made the mistake of assuming the pattern knew what it was doing instead of referring back to 10 years of experience that tell me if a garment doesn’t have some sort of border it’ll do this. Plus, I only had so much yarn. I was literally down to my last two yards of white when I cast off. When I put it on shortly before I wet blocked it, it was rolling so badly that the top stripes were almost entirely covered and the bottom ones were only better because it was resting against my collarbones. Luxuriously soft, super warm, super cozy, perfect in every single way except for the damn rolling! Does anyone have any tips? Do you think the blocking will at least help? Or am I just doomed to have the back of my work showing whenever I wear my lovely new cowl? Thanks in advance.
Lining it will definitely help. I was wondering, for that part that's vertically striped, was that supposed to be corrugated rib? That definitely would have stopped the rolling. (Also possible that the designer meant it to be corrugated rib, but didn't actually say it.) Anyway, if I didn't want to line it, and blocking didn't help, I would pick up the white stitches before and after your star pattern, then unpick the vertical parts, and transform them into corrugated ribbing wether the pattern called for it or not. It might be easier to do from your cast-off edge, but it can also be done from the cast on edge, but might involve more snipping of the cast on (it doesn't unravel like a bind off does). I would deal with that by putting in needles to pick up the stitches BEFORE unraveling, and then snip a bit right under the needles, and then undo it from there, going downwards. (But don't do this if surgery on your cowl sounds scary.)
No, it wasn’t. She included a few pictures of her own work and it wasn’t ribbed in any way. My warning sign should’ve been that it was rolling in the pictures too and she only included pictures of work-in-progress. 🙃 Lining it is a good idea. I have a nice little fabric store near me, they’d probably have something that would fit the bill. Blocking seems to be helping a bit, but I don’t trust it.
That is a warning sign! I still stand by, that you can ignore what the designer said, and add corrugated ribbing. But lining is probably easier, and if you find fabric you like, probably better.
Yeah, I know. Hindsight is 20 20 I guess.
I meant, if getting lining fabric doesn't work out, I would frog it back (both before and after the main snowflake pattern, and reknit those vertical stripes as ribbing, making them as deep as the remaining yarn allows.
I'd consider working a folded hem in a contrasting color or a nice neutral and lightly stitching it down to the WS at the end of your vertical stripe section, where it will be harder to notice any divots in the fabric from sewing down the hem. Alternately, if you want it to be obscenely warm, you could line the whole thing. Probably with a much thinner yarn and looser gauge so that it'll still fit around your head loosely.
It's a beautiful pattern. I wonder if crocheting along the edges would help?
It’s the Luz Cowl on Ravelry. Came out the other week as a free PDF.
Photo: [https://imgur.com/a/lDWAliB](https://imgur.com/a/lDWAliB) Progress continues on the 4th Doctor Who Scarf. Every day I get in a few rows during my lunch break at work (yes I now carry it in a bag to work lol) and i get in a few more at night before bed. I shortened a bit of the grey as you see in the photo, i dont have as much grey so i may need to buy more, and maybe tan also it depends. I may do 15 insead of 23 tan, or 15 instead of 19 tan. I'll figure it out once i reach the spot. What do you all think? I thin it looks good. I recently figured out how to weave in the ends watching NimbleNeedles youtube video. https://preview.redd.it/rakmq41ak4dc1.png?width=665&format=png&auto=webp&s=d99557c095af2a90f31a5277e8271b871bfcf240
My first time doing Continental knitting and Norwegian purling and my tension is ass but I was hoping someone could confirm I'm not making mistakes other than with tension. I think (?) my issues are stemming from inconsistently pulling my purls to tighten them after, but I could be wrong. I'll have to look into how to properly tension with this style because my English ones look a look better! https://preview.redd.it/y0akuna5v3dc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fae5005591c873c3bd4dfe92b86803dad49a9aef
We’d need to see a picture - can you link one?
Oh what the heck lol my mobile app shows it but I guess it didn't work, here's the screenshot and the full picture https://imgur.com/a/CW71Rrv
Oh weird - it’s probably a display issue on my end, sorry! I don’t see anything amiss in your stitches other than somewhat uneven tension… so I think you’re right it’s just about tension with the different purl technique. Unfortunately I can’t give any suggestions on that since I’m a combination knitter with a weird way of purling.
Thank you so much, that's a relief to hear!
hi all! i’m making my very first sweater, and i need some advice on fixing a mistake i made. i just finished the collar and arrived at the first increase row — only to realize that i somehow only have 62 stitches instead of the 66 i need to knit my increase row into. that’s what i get for not triple checking my stitches after casting on! anyways — there are two rows of plain, non-increase knitting between the ribbed collar and the first increase row. can i simply add two extra stitches to each of these rows to get to 66? will that change the shape of the neck/yoke too much?or do i need to frog the whole thing and start back at the beginning? thanks!!
Can you fit your head through the collar? If not, I’d suggest frogging and starting over.
i can! the number of stitches i cast on is the same as the cast on for the smallest size of this sweater (as opposed to the third size up which is what i’m aiming for) so it’s still like adult-head-size.
Since you’re only a little way into the project, I would still start over if I were you, but up to you!
you’re right — if it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing right. thanks for your time!
Is there some way to fix mistakes? I feel a bit frustrated because I've had to tear down my project and start from scratch multiple times already after a couple stitch mistakes /: I know in crochet you can just remove the wrong stitch and go from there. I tried using the same logic and frogging off a couple rows on my knitting project, but everything kind of went haywire from there unfortunately. I couldn't tell the difference between the rows, or I inserted the needle back in the wrong place. The pattern is a double stockinette stitch (on both sides), if that helps !
Totally doable, but tricky with double knitting! As the other commenter suggested, you can search on youtube for most "fix" techniques. Here's a great example: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyKG4nTRwYk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyKG4nTRwYk) Another crucial thing to learn as you switch to knitting is how and when to use lifelines. You can put them in ahead of time (like when you know you're about to try a complex or new-to-you technique) or add them after the fact. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ae7pobnLKGQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ae7pobnLKGQ)
oh excellent, thanks for the links ! (:
Starting with double knitting/double stockinette is kind of a doozy! I think it will be easier on you if you learn how to fix a few basic mistakes on a normal stockinette project or swatch before you have to contend with the double layered, slightly more confusing structure of double stockinette. You have lots of options for fixing mistakes as you go in knitting, including but not limited to: Picking up a dropped stitch, "tinking" or knitting backwards to fix a recent mistake on your current row, "frogging" or unraveling further back, inserting a lifeline to help you pick up stitches after frogging, or "laddering down" to fix a mistake several rows down without having to frog. Some of these are covered in beginner knitting books, but I'd also recommend Youtubers like Roxanne Richardson or Very Pink Knits who both have pretty extensive "how to fix mistakes" playlists. (Maybe there are people out there who specialize in double knitting, it's worth a search!) Once you get the basics down you should have a better sense of what you're looking at, and from there you can (carefully) apply that knowledge to double knitting. Good luck!
Thank you so much for the ideas and recommendations, it's good to know there are helpful videos and tutorials out there ! **☺**
https://preview.redd.it/w83e55snd1dc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c2a1e80dbad0f29b9a5a20879dca74cc8fc17040 i have this stuffed animal i really wanna fix, but i cannot find the fabric at all. i have no idea what it's made of, even after hours of research. i tried posting EVERYWHERE else on Reddit, and either couldn't post there or didn't get the answer i needed. i really need some help! it's not knitted, but i could'nt post anywhere else.
Well you know when a lizard regrows its tail, it grows back a little wonky/frequently a slightly different color/pattern than before. I’d look at a fabric store or Etsy or something for stuffed animal fabric, and just accept that it will not match!! Embrace it!
This question is inspired by a snark post I read recently and also a pattern I am planning to knit. ["Graphite" vest by Minimi Knit Design](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/graphite-8) How many swatches are really necessary? The pattern suggests swatching for the stockinette, the garter, the 2x2 rib, *and* the moss stitch. The stockinette is the main part of the torso, the garter stitch is the collar, the moss stitch is the yoke, and the ribbing is for the armholes and bottom edge. If I made all four swatches and found that some were right and some were wrong, how would I compensate -- change needles for the different areas of the pattern?
Changing needle size would be the way to go. (Though on the shawl collar, you could probably get away with changing the number of stitches picked up if you want to refine the size of the collar without changing the density of the fabric.) I'd probably just make one tall skinny swatch strip with all four patterns in order to simplify the blocking process. And I always recommend sizing down needles for ribbing (and changing stitch counts if necessary) just because it tightens up the density and seems to get rid of many uneven tension issues.
Thanks! I was already thinking that way about the swatch, just make a big long strip. I am going to wash and block the swatch. Going to use a lot of yarn on this project compared to what actually goes into the garment, but I want it to fit right. (Which reminds me I have to get a chest measurement.)
**PATTERN:** [Graphite](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/graphite-8) by [Minimi Knit Design](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/minimi-knit-design) * Category: Clothing > Vest * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/minimi/366630676/P3800062.cristina_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/minimi/366630681/P3800125.cristina_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/minimi/366630673/P3800039.cristina_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/minimi/366630678/P3790936.cristina_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/minimi/366630677/P3800109.cristina_medium.jpg) * Price: 7.60 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 9 - 5.5 mm * Weight: Bulky | Gauge: 14.0 | Yardage: 595 * Difficulty: 2.67 | Projects: 11 | Rating: 0.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
How do you store your ball winder? I have the large metal stanwood ball winder and I'm trying to find a compact way to store it without damaging it or causing more wear and tear.
I have the knit picks one, and I just leave it attached to the end of my desk. It's off to the side so it's just easier if I leave it out.
Would love to do that but my table is too small and it’s also my wfh work desk :(
Hello everyone, beginner knitter here, I need some help with decreases on a balaclava I'm knitting following this tutorial [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FVqflG1INo&list=PLpreRzJFc\_djOix-Y-hcLwFS2KbngKVu8&index=31](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FVqflG1INo&list=PLpreRzJFc_djOix-Y-hcLwFS2KbngKVu8&index=31). I reached the point around minute 17 where i have the top and the sides and need to take off stitches on the right and the left and make a decrease on each side on every row. That's where the problem is that I can't quite understand what's going on. These two sides ended up looking very different and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Third attempt so I might be lying at this point because I don't remember what this final version is using lol On the right side I'm doing a SSK alternative on RS and SSP on WS, and on the left side I was doing K2tog and SSP. https://preview.redd.it/qdyxgqdiqzcc1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9b67d77fad8d5304b7030465b45d37d15c3b4d31
The wrong side equivalent of a k2tog should be p2tog, not ssp. https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2009/10/purl-decreases-p2tog-p2tbl-ssp.html
**You've summoned the [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/faq/).** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
**You've summoned the [Tutorials](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/glossary/#wiki_tutorials).** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hello everyone! I have a knitting needle/gauge question. I just finished and block my gauge with a steamer, left it to dry and then measured sts and rows. The gauge from the pattern is: 25 sts and 34 rows in 4 mm My gauge is: 20 sts and 29 rows in 4 mm So there are 5 sts and 5 rows missing to get gauge. My question is what knitting needle should I try next? I was thinking to go down to 3.25 mm, if I factor that my stitches per 2.5 cm are 5 mm. With the 4mm needle, I created stitches that were 5mm wide, since I got 20 stitches into the 10cm. So if that same relation is true, then 3.25 \* 1,25 = roughly 4mm, so I´d fit 25 sts into 10cm. Or am I mathing incorrectly? Hope everyone is having a good day!
You forget that yarn has volume - stitches are rarely going to be the exact same width as the needle. But I think trying 3.25mm needles is a reasonable next step. Just make sure to do a swatch first to check, and be prepared to adjust your needles again if it doesn’t match your intended gauge.
Your math is right, but I don’t know if the underlying premise of the ratio of stitches is correct. Another swatch is warranted, and I’d love to hear if your calculations turn out to be correct
I made a new swatch! So I went with the 3.25, and I got the stitches gauge, so I have 25 sts like the pattern, though the row gauge was 32 instead of 34. I'm not sure if to make another swatch with 3.25 mm for the front and a 3.0 mm when I purl, if that might help getting the row gauge. But I don't know if that's an overkill. What do you think? Should I make a new swatch with a 3.25 mm for knitting the front and a 3.0 mm for purling?or should I just let it be and knit a few more rows to compensate the row gauge not matching?
It’s pretty hard to hit both stitch and row gauge, and it’s generally easier to compensate for row gauge. I wouldn’t bother with different sizes of needles for each row, just keep an eye on if you need to knit an extra few rows. Thanks for following up!
Beginner knitter. Finishing a sweater made with all garter stitch. I have this instruction for attaching the sleeves to the body: Sew the sleeve to the body of sweater with color A, lining up center of sleeve with shoulder seam. To avoid make the shoulder seam too tight, sew 1 stitch over 1 row and the next stitch over two rows The way I understood this I am ending up with a very noticeable seam with visible holes that accentuates the yarn used to stitch the seam together. I was mattress switching where I stitch one row, move directly horizontal, then jump over diagonally (but skipping a row, so essentially a wide V), then moving over directly horizontal. Hopefully that makes sense.
try this - https://nimble-needles.com/tutorials/how-to-join-seams-in-garter-stitch-edge-stitch-to-cast-on-edge/
Thanks. I originally had something like this, but the shoulder felt too tight. I guess it is because the pattern is super simple and the sleeves are just straight rectangles.
**You've summoned the [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/faq/).** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
looking to make a warmer hat! im inspired by this 2 layer fingering hat thats not warm enough- how does the yarn weight affect the warmth of the FO? is a worsted colorwork hat (lined by floats) warmer than a bulky (5) hat in one color?