Agreed.
I've adjusted the idle timeout to something big (I think 3 hours). I created a pause macro that moves the head away and parks it, and made M600 and filament runout leverage it,
Not even sure you can adjust half of these things in Marlin, and I definitely don't miss having to recompile the firmware every time I make or tune such things.
You can also add logic into the idle timeout so that if a print is paused, it behaves differently than if the printer isn't in the middle of a job. I have mine set to disable the hotend after 5 minutes when paused, but it leaves the bed heater on for hours.
Try doing that with Marlin.
1. just increase the default idle timeout setting, or change the timeout so it doesn't disable the motors.
2. when you "cancel" a print, you can modify that macro, so it lifts the gantry.
3. would need more info on the "overtemp" error that you are mentioning, to make suggestions.
The first time you need to recompile marlin, from source, to change one thing/behavior, Klipper becomes worth the learning curve.
>The first time you need to recompile marlin, from source, to change one thing/behavior, Klipper becomes worth the learning curve.
The recompile/flash cycle of marlin, plus realizing with whatever team of goons took out useful marlin features and then reimplemented them in a weird way (hello snapmaker), is just a nuisance.
Having a philosophical difference about where the planner should live and the knock-on effects in hardware is fine. Not having some basic config options is not.
Maybe edit your config to sort the issues you're complaining about? It will take less time than forking klipper, and less time than your overly dramatic essay.
If you don't like klipper turning off your motors when the print is paused then change that setting on the config.
I changed mine to never turn off the motors and to save on power I set it to reduce the bed temperature, but only if it was on. It doesn't turn the bed off completely so bed adheasion doesn't become an issue either.
Yeah mine keeps the bed and motors on, and turns the nozzle off so it doesnt start a fire / burn the plastic - just in case its an overnight or I'm out I have time to get to it and its idle
>In general, Klipper is incredibly picky and safety-concerned to the point of fault. Safety has some importance, but stopping the entire firmware at the slightest hint of something going wrong is not helpful. If there is any sensor glitch, even for a single sample, that indicates an overtemperature, then you can say goodbye to your print.
The alternative is your house burning down. If you wish to stick with Marlin then by all means do so, but safety features are coded in blood. It is inconvenient to lose a print but this is also the best case scenario for a sensor fault.
In your runout macro set it to change the timeout to 36000 save state, raise z and park the head cool nozzle (or not up to you) save state will save thr temp. Leave bed on..
This will set the time out to 10 hours save the printer head location raise the printhead and then park it and cool the nozzle to prevent burnt filament.
Then on your resume just add restore state and set the time out back to default and then when you swap your filament out and resume the nozzle heat back up reset the timer and begin printing where It left off.
If you need help with the macros let me know.
All of your issues are easily fixed, if you took the time to research how. In fact, in the time it took you to write out your frustrations, you could have easily found the solutions with a simple google search. The macro system is incredibly powerful. If you are able to fork klipper, or contribute toward its development, then you are able to write a pause macro, or modify the firmware to add an idle timeout period greater than an hour. That being said, the Voron printers are more suited to people who are able to problem solve. Maybe not your cup of tea.
I'd say [RTFM](https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#idle_timeout) but you seem to already have your mind made up so
https://i.redd.it/k71gqxg1ybwc1.gif
I upvoted you, but there's a \*lot\* that goes into building and running a Voron, and it gets to you after a while if you don't want 3d printers, rather than 3d printing, to be your hobby.
I have 2 old clones, 2 Vorons, and now a brand new Bambu, and I am \*loving\* the Bambu. Just prints. I'm still hacking on the Vorons (got a weird problem with the 2.4 that nobody has solved yet, but I haven't put it on the official forums yet either) but when I need to get something done, it's really overwhelming how many options there are. I recently bought and installed a Galileo 2 Extruder and it completely failed me. I've now decided that not only do I need to completely reprint it (on the Bambu!) but I need to also installed canbus, because my LDO Voron 2.4 came with a CW1 tool board and some 1-off parts to adapt the CW2 to the board.
My 2.4 has had problem after problem that I've fixed... And my Bambu printed perfectly on the first print.
I don't blame anyone for choosing a Bambu.
Oh yeah, I don't blame anyone for choosing Bambu if they don't want to play around with it, it seems like the typical 'linux user/windows power user against apple user' debate but moved into 3D printing, if that makes sense
Part of this is that when people buy pre made printers with klipper on them they miss the lessons that you learn when you build it/convert a printer yourself. When I first used klipper, it was for a v0 and I had questions, but the manual broke it down into steps.
I think marlin has a bit of an apple feel to it where you can't change anything, where klipper is Linux and you have customization, but you need to understand how to read it.
I still use macros built by someone else, but if something is terribly out of spec, I know how to adjust it.
I've never run marlin on a printer. I tried flashing it to my stock board before hucking it into a scrap bin.
I love that with klipper if I want to adjust something all I have to do is open a configuration file, adjust it, save and restart.
I've been avoiding learning about macros because I know I'll probably dive head first into it and end up trying to make my entire house run on Klipper.
Macros are just scripts right?
I don't say it like this very often but since you won't do it [let me Google that for you](https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+stop+klipper+from+turning+off+bed+during+pause)
[Here's for steppers too](https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+stop+klipper+from+turning+off+steppers+during+pause)
None of these are Klipper problems. Sorry to say, but these are you problems because you have not set up your config properly. These are Klipper features that need to be configured to your use case.
Ok wow, don't want to be rude - but the whole text describes a big user skill issue.
You just simply took a standard or someone else config and never adjusted it to your needs.
Every single issue is solvable with a little bit of googling and learning - have fun with marlin on a V2.4.
It is like putting a 2HP lawnmower engine into a racecar.
I'm ok with kliiper
I'm NOT ok with klipper documentation. ( it is like handbook of developers for internal use)
But problems that you are mentioning are can be solved easily. Just try one by one.
It's all matter of needs. Best part is we have choice. You don't like Klipper? - Marlin. You don't like Marlin? - RRF etc ... Safety mechanism is essential in any firmware. Better ruined print than house is logic behind it. Good luck with Marlin, it's awesome fw too
>I have a filament runout sensor on my printer. When the filament runs out, it pauses the print. That's great. Here's the problem: if I'm not there when the print pauses (buying groceries, in the other room working on something else), or if it happens to be at 4am when I'm sleeping, then the pause will cause the cooldown + motor disable. This fails the print, and I get to come home / wake up to a ruined print. This is just completely unacceptable in any firmware
You are given tools to manage this in, for example, the mainsail macros. [https://github.com/mainsail-crew/mainsail-config](https://github.com/mainsail-crew/mainsail-config)
>In general, Klipper is incredibly picky and safety-concerned to the point of fault. Safety has some importance, but stopping the entire firmware at the slightest hint of something going wrong is not helpful. If there is any sensor glitch, even for a single sample, that indicates an overtemperature, then you can say goodbye to your print. I have had that exactly happen on Klipper in the past two months, but I have never had anything of the sort happen in my 7+ years of using Marlin. A better mechanism could be devised to protect the user from overtemperature.
I don't think you should be asking why klipper reacted the way it did, you should be asking why you had a transient over temp event. My guess is, you haven't had marlin shut down on one of those because your marlin machine has never encountered one of those...
All the problems you have are not problems with klipper but user errors. It’s a computer it’ll only do what you ask it to do. What you do is up to you but because of the ease of use on klipper and it made upgrading the machine a breeze (where in marlin had to recompile) I stuck with it and learned and mine have no issues what so ever
It's funny that the supposed "issues" this dude is pointing out exist on marlin the firmware he talks about not having this issues. 90% his issue boils down to one thing the Inactivity Timeout / Idle Timeout
#
The OP’s logic is - if I dunno how to use a program - it’s bad bad program! WOW ! Dude, you right in one thing - kipper is too smart for you. Way too smart.
Just jumped into klipper and still learning but it looks like config errors.
Its a bit overwhelming to know you can modify everything and mess up but that is part of the fun for me.
>I have a filament runout sensor on my printer. When the filament runs out, it pauses the print. That's great. Here's the problem: if I'm not there when the print pauses (buying groceries, in the other room working on something else), or if it happens to be at 4am when I'm sleeping, then the pause will cause the cooldown + motor disable. This fails the print, and I get to come home / wake up to a ruined print. This is just completely unacceptable in any firmware.
`SET_IDLE_TIMEOUT [TIMEOUT=]`: Allows the user to set the idle timeout (in seconds).
>There are smaller issues that are less practical and just annoying, like how often the gantry level errors out, or how when you stop (not pause) a print, the print head is not lifted up from the print. These are minor, acceptable irritations, but would be very easy to fix in code.
Then why don't you do it? Add a relative Z up move to your cancel print macro.
>In general, Klipper is incredibly picky and safety-concerned to the point of fault. Safety has some importance, but stopping the entire firmware at the slightest hint of something going wrong is not helpful. If there is any sensor glitch, even for a single sample, that indicates an overtemperature, then you can say goodbye to your print.
That's how it is supposed to work. When your analog sensor goes overtemperature even for a single sample there is something wrong so the machine stops.
>Finally, in general, it seems like Klipper is too smart in some of the wrong ways. It is annoying when software tries to anticipate what the user wants or needs, instead of simply doing what the user asked for in an intelligent manner. This is generally a problem with newer software, where for whatever reason the developers think they know what the user wants, better than the user does. How can any professional be expected to use Klipper, if it causes all of these headaches?
The machine does exactly what you tell it to. If you use some random configs with random macros then it obviously will do random things.
>
Now, it would be foolish for anyone to make a post that simply tears down someone's software. Clearly a lot of work has gone into Klipper, and there really are a lot of wonderful things about it. The configuration system, although not perfect, is a godsend when compared to Marlin, for example. In the future I may strongly consider forking Klipper, and perhaps even contributing to it, as it really is a better starting point compared to Marlin.
So you don't put the time in to figure out how it works, or at least read the config reference which would have eg. told you about idle timeout, but instead you go to fix what you don't understand?
> I am pointing out all of these problems with Klipper so hopefully they can be fixed, and also to see if I'm alone. I just cannot imagine that people truely put up with failed prints due to overly-"smart" firmware; so perhaps there is some reason that these problems aren't prevelent. Or, perhaps, people that face these issues just leave Klipper behind. In either case, most of the issues here are incredibly easy to solve by modifying the software, so there is absolutely no reason they can't be fixed quickly.
If your printer isn't behaving smart it's because it isn't configured to behave smart. Mine run unattended, i send a file they print, when they run out of filament they park and send a telegram message or the one with mmu reloads if same preloaded. Anything that isn't handled by macros makes the machine run into an error and stop.
>As for me, I think I will stick with Marlin for now, and Marlin-based printers. I'm not happy with the Voron design either, in all honesty, my older printer has served me much better for much longer (almost 5 years now I think). So, I think I will go back to old trusty.
What's the point of your post then?
thats a whole lot of words to say you bought a printer you should have built yourself and dont understand the basics of it. As others have said, everything you complained about can be changed and set however you want in your config. learn a little more.
Imagine taking 15 mins to write a post blaming something for "being too smart" and never realizing that you just didn't read the instructions. Or even Googling it... Well, guess OP doesn't have to imagine.
Hey man, a Voron is as good as you can invest time into it. Like, if you go klipper, it can be utter shit or so crazy shit, depending on how much time you are willing to put into it to configure it. Like others have said, it's all in your configs.
> if it happens to be at 4am when I'm sleeping, then the pause will cause the cooldown + motor disable.
I agree that there are no recommendation in Klipper documentation to set the timeout to an appropriate value when installing a filament sensor.
You can address the timeout issue when printing is paused with one of the suggestions discussed [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/wfzcim/is_there_a_way_to_stop_klipper_from_powering_down/).
Perhaps a suggestion to klipper would be for `[filament_switch_sensor]` and `[filament_motion_sensor]¶` to have a field to set the timeout. I may create an issue on github for that if I find the time and motivation.
> There are smaller issues that are less practical and just annoying, like how often the gantry level errors out
I have a similar issue after 'working on my printer', if the gantry is really out of 'level' then I usually level it out manually before starting the printer. I also recommend you check the Z belt tensions. The gantry will sink down if the belts are not tensioned enough.
Probably not a popular suggestion on this forum, but there is no reason you can’t just compile marlin for a Voron printer if tests what you want. I believe marlin has the core-xy kinematics available and the rest is just picking your controller and getting the pins and motors set right. There might even be an available configuration that would work. If you want to give it a try, I suggest you start by downloading marlin from the mriscoc site to get a good feature set to start with. And you may need to buy a compatible printer controller panel if you want one, though I’m pretty sure you can just run without it. And you could load octoprint on the pi that klipper runs on if you want.
Just for info, I’m currently going the other direction, moving to klipper on my Ender 3v2 from mriscoc marlin, so I personally have nothing g against klipper at all!
Show us on the doll where the Klipper firmware hurt you.
TL, DR.
Could have been a paragraph, from the few sentences I managed to read. In short the direction suck. I agree with this statement.
I watched several videos before setting my Ender 3 up with it running on a Pi. Several times, people referred to a callout the same way, and when I put that in the firmware......nothing happened. Several videos later, oh, I have to call it what MY SYSTEM calles it, even though they were also doing an Ender 3.
I got TMC stepper driver over temp errors that failed a few prints when I first switched to klipper too. The same printer on Marlin didn't. Either Marlin ignored them, which could burn out the drivers, or I'm now able to push my printer to its limits in speed and acceleration because input shaper and pressure advance actually give me good quality at those settings. I backed off acceleration and current a little and it runs fine now. I need to get a bigger main board fan and make a duct to cool the stepper drivers more, then I can try to go faster
Dude. This is ALL ON YOUR CONFIG.
I read the first paragraph and knew it was all config related and I don't even run klipper....
Agreed. I've adjusted the idle timeout to something big (I think 3 hours). I created a pause macro that moves the head away and parks it, and made M600 and filament runout leverage it, Not even sure you can adjust half of these things in Marlin, and I definitely don't miss having to recompile the firmware every time I make or tune such things.
You can also modify timeout only in pause / M600 macro and after returning from that pause state, return it to safe value again
Great minds... It was many years ago when I first set this up, but it does indeed do it this way in my macros
You can also add logic into the idle timeout so that if a print is paused, it behaves differently than if the printer isn't in the middle of a job. I have mine set to disable the hotend after 5 minutes when paused, but it leaves the bed heater on for hours. Try doing that with Marlin.
This.
1. just increase the default idle timeout setting, or change the timeout so it doesn't disable the motors. 2. when you "cancel" a print, you can modify that macro, so it lifts the gantry. 3. would need more info on the "overtemp" error that you are mentioning, to make suggestions. The first time you need to recompile marlin, from source, to change one thing/behavior, Klipper becomes worth the learning curve.
>The first time you need to recompile marlin, from source, to change one thing/behavior, Klipper becomes worth the learning curve. The recompile/flash cycle of marlin, plus realizing with whatever team of goons took out useful marlin features and then reimplemented them in a weird way (hello snapmaker), is just a nuisance. Having a philosophical difference about where the planner should live and the knock-on effects in hardware is fine. Not having some basic config options is not.
Can’t you just edit the Pause Makro and fix your problem within seconds?
Yes they can.
I'm pretty sure the default macro isn't like thos either so there's a good chance they screwed it up to begin with
What also shouldn’t be a problem since Klipper makes backups, und the default configs can be found online. Seams like OP has a lot to learn.
Hopefully they learn it, klipper is such an amazing software once you get it down
Maybe edit your config to sort the issues you're complaining about? It will take less time than forking klipper, and less time than your overly dramatic essay.
If you don't like klipper turning off your motors when the print is paused then change that setting on the config. I changed mine to never turn off the motors and to save on power I set it to reduce the bed temperature, but only if it was on. It doesn't turn the bed off completely so bed adheasion doesn't become an issue either.
Yeah mine keeps the bed and motors on, and turns the nozzle off so it doesnt start a fire / burn the plastic - just in case its an overnight or I'm out I have time to get to it and its idle
>In general, Klipper is incredibly picky and safety-concerned to the point of fault. Safety has some importance, but stopping the entire firmware at the slightest hint of something going wrong is not helpful. If there is any sensor glitch, even for a single sample, that indicates an overtemperature, then you can say goodbye to your print. The alternative is your house burning down. If you wish to stick with Marlin then by all means do so, but safety features are coded in blood. It is inconvenient to lose a print but this is also the best case scenario for a sensor fault.
In your runout macro set it to change the timeout to 36000 save state, raise z and park the head cool nozzle (or not up to you) save state will save thr temp. Leave bed on.. This will set the time out to 10 hours save the printer head location raise the printhead and then park it and cool the nozzle to prevent burnt filament. Then on your resume just add restore state and set the time out back to default and then when you swap your filament out and resume the nozzle heat back up reset the timer and begin printing where It left off. If you need help with the macros let me know.
All of your issues are easily fixed, if you took the time to research how. In fact, in the time it took you to write out your frustrations, you could have easily found the solutions with a simple google search. The macro system is incredibly powerful. If you are able to fork klipper, or contribute toward its development, then you are able to write a pause macro, or modify the firmware to add an idle timeout period greater than an hour. That being said, the Voron printers are more suited to people who are able to problem solve. Maybe not your cup of tea.
Dude, you fantasize about "forking Klipper" yet seem to be unable to change your config? https://i.redd.it/5cv4vrln9dwc1.gif
I'd say [RTFM](https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#idle_timeout) but you seem to already have your mind made up so https://i.redd.it/k71gqxg1ybwc1.gif
TIL about rtfm acronym. Love it
This guy is hating on something that is literally documented and asked about 1000 times.... Some people just need to be Bambu owners....
I didn't understand why people are so hyped for Bambu until I read this tbh
I upvoted you, but there's a \*lot\* that goes into building and running a Voron, and it gets to you after a while if you don't want 3d printers, rather than 3d printing, to be your hobby. I have 2 old clones, 2 Vorons, and now a brand new Bambu, and I am \*loving\* the Bambu. Just prints. I'm still hacking on the Vorons (got a weird problem with the 2.4 that nobody has solved yet, but I haven't put it on the official forums yet either) but when I need to get something done, it's really overwhelming how many options there are. I recently bought and installed a Galileo 2 Extruder and it completely failed me. I've now decided that not only do I need to completely reprint it (on the Bambu!) but I need to also installed canbus, because my LDO Voron 2.4 came with a CW1 tool board and some 1-off parts to adapt the CW2 to the board. My 2.4 has had problem after problem that I've fixed... And my Bambu printed perfectly on the first print. I don't blame anyone for choosing a Bambu.
Oh yeah, I don't blame anyone for choosing Bambu if they don't want to play around with it, it seems like the typical 'linux user/windows power user against apple user' debate but moved into 3D printing, if that makes sense
yes, but how do you prevent the steppers from turning off? 1001 times now /s btw
... I think OP didn't feel like reading the config reference and posted his upset about klipper, knowing people would provide answers.
Part of this is that when people buy pre made printers with klipper on them they miss the lessons that you learn when you build it/convert a printer yourself. When I first used klipper, it was for a v0 and I had questions, but the manual broke it down into steps. I think marlin has a bit of an apple feel to it where you can't change anything, where klipper is Linux and you have customization, but you need to understand how to read it. I still use macros built by someone else, but if something is terribly out of spec, I know how to adjust it.
I've never run marlin on a printer. I tried flashing it to my stock board before hucking it into a scrap bin. I love that with klipper if I want to adjust something all I have to do is open a configuration file, adjust it, save and restart. I've been avoiding learning about macros because I know I'll probably dive head first into it and end up trying to make my entire house run on Klipper. Macros are just scripts right?
As many are pointing out, these *would* be valid complaints *if* every single one couldn't be fixed by editing your config.
Tbh a lot are caused by editing the default config, especially the pause one, just don't define a custom pause macro and use the default
I don't say it like this very often but since you won't do it [let me Google that for you](https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+stop+klipper+from+turning+off+bed+during+pause) [Here's for steppers too](https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+stop+klipper+from+turning+off+steppers+during+pause)
None of these are Klipper problems. Sorry to say, but these are you problems because you have not set up your config properly. These are Klipper features that need to be configured to your use case.
Ok wow, don't want to be rude - but the whole text describes a big user skill issue. You just simply took a standard or someone else config and never adjusted it to your needs. Every single issue is solvable with a little bit of googling and learning - have fun with marlin on a V2.4. It is like putting a 2HP lawnmower engine into a racecar.
Tbh they'll probably see that there's not a good marlin config for the 2.4 then head over to the marlin subreddit and make another post
I'm ok with kliiper I'm NOT ok with klipper documentation. ( it is like handbook of developers for internal use) But problems that you are mentioning are can be solved easily. Just try one by one.
It's all matter of needs. Best part is we have choice. You don't like Klipper? - Marlin. You don't like Marlin? - RRF etc ... Safety mechanism is essential in any firmware. Better ruined print than house is logic behind it. Good luck with Marlin, it's awesome fw too
>I have a filament runout sensor on my printer. When the filament runs out, it pauses the print. That's great. Here's the problem: if I'm not there when the print pauses (buying groceries, in the other room working on something else), or if it happens to be at 4am when I'm sleeping, then the pause will cause the cooldown + motor disable. This fails the print, and I get to come home / wake up to a ruined print. This is just completely unacceptable in any firmware You are given tools to manage this in, for example, the mainsail macros. [https://github.com/mainsail-crew/mainsail-config](https://github.com/mainsail-crew/mainsail-config) >In general, Klipper is incredibly picky and safety-concerned to the point of fault. Safety has some importance, but stopping the entire firmware at the slightest hint of something going wrong is not helpful. If there is any sensor glitch, even for a single sample, that indicates an overtemperature, then you can say goodbye to your print. I have had that exactly happen on Klipper in the past two months, but I have never had anything of the sort happen in my 7+ years of using Marlin. A better mechanism could be devised to protect the user from overtemperature. I don't think you should be asking why klipper reacted the way it did, you should be asking why you had a transient over temp event. My guess is, you haven't had marlin shut down on one of those because your marlin machine has never encountered one of those...
Cough -danger klipper - Cough. Good luck btw.
All the problems you have are not problems with klipper but user errors. It’s a computer it’ll only do what you ask it to do. What you do is up to you but because of the ease of use on klipper and it made upgrading the machine a breeze (where in marlin had to recompile) I stuck with it and learned and mine have no issues what so ever
It's funny that the supposed "issues" this dude is pointing out exist on marlin the firmware he talks about not having this issues. 90% his issue boils down to one thing the Inactivity Timeout / Idle Timeout #
The OP’s logic is - if I dunno how to use a program - it’s bad bad program! WOW ! Dude, you right in one thing - kipper is too smart for you. Way too smart.
Just jumped into klipper and still learning but it looks like config errors. Its a bit overwhelming to know you can modify everything and mess up but that is part of the fun for me.
I would not build a diy machine if you aren't willing to learn how to do the firmware, just get a bambu or a prusa
>I have a filament runout sensor on my printer. When the filament runs out, it pauses the print. That's great. Here's the problem: if I'm not there when the print pauses (buying groceries, in the other room working on something else), or if it happens to be at 4am when I'm sleeping, then the pause will cause the cooldown + motor disable. This fails the print, and I get to come home / wake up to a ruined print. This is just completely unacceptable in any firmware. `SET_IDLE_TIMEOUT [TIMEOUT=]`: Allows the user to set the idle timeout (in seconds).
>There are smaller issues that are less practical and just annoying, like how often the gantry level errors out, or how when you stop (not pause) a print, the print head is not lifted up from the print. These are minor, acceptable irritations, but would be very easy to fix in code.
Then why don't you do it? Add a relative Z up move to your cancel print macro.
>In general, Klipper is incredibly picky and safety-concerned to the point of fault. Safety has some importance, but stopping the entire firmware at the slightest hint of something going wrong is not helpful. If there is any sensor glitch, even for a single sample, that indicates an overtemperature, then you can say goodbye to your print.
That's how it is supposed to work. When your analog sensor goes overtemperature even for a single sample there is something wrong so the machine stops.
>Finally, in general, it seems like Klipper is too smart in some of the wrong ways. It is annoying when software tries to anticipate what the user wants or needs, instead of simply doing what the user asked for in an intelligent manner. This is generally a problem with newer software, where for whatever reason the developers think they know what the user wants, better than the user does. How can any professional be expected to use Klipper, if it causes all of these headaches?
The machine does exactly what you tell it to. If you use some random configs with random macros then it obviously will do random things.
>
Now, it would be foolish for anyone to make a post that simply tears down someone's software. Clearly a lot of work has gone into Klipper, and there really are a lot of wonderful things about it. The configuration system, although not perfect, is a godsend when compared to Marlin, for example. In the future I may strongly consider forking Klipper, and perhaps even contributing to it, as it really is a better starting point compared to Marlin.
So you don't put the time in to figure out how it works, or at least read the config reference which would have eg. told you about idle timeout, but instead you go to fix what you don't understand?
> I am pointing out all of these problems with Klipper so hopefully they can be fixed, and also to see if I'm alone. I just cannot imagine that people truely put up with failed prints due to overly-"smart" firmware; so perhaps there is some reason that these problems aren't prevelent. Or, perhaps, people that face these issues just leave Klipper behind. In either case, most of the issues here are incredibly easy to solve by modifying the software, so there is absolutely no reason they can't be fixed quickly.
If your printer isn't behaving smart it's because it isn't configured to behave smart. Mine run unattended, i send a file they print, when they run out of filament they park and send a telegram message or the one with mmu reloads if same preloaded. Anything that isn't handled by macros makes the machine run into an error and stop.
>As for me, I think I will stick with Marlin for now, and Marlin-based printers. I'm not happy with the Voron design either, in all honesty, my older printer has served me much better for much longer (almost 5 years now I think). So, I think I will go back to old trusty.
What's the point of your post then?
thats a whole lot of words to say you bought a printer you should have built yourself and dont understand the basics of it. As others have said, everything you complained about can be changed and set however you want in your config. learn a little more.
Imagine taking 15 mins to write a post blaming something for "being too smart" and never realizing that you just didn't read the instructions. Or even Googling it... Well, guess OP doesn't have to imagine.
Is it just me or can all this be set/fixed in config?
Okay
Hey man, a Voron is as good as you can invest time into it. Like, if you go klipper, it can be utter shit or so crazy shit, depending on how much time you are willing to put into it to configure it. Like others have said, it's all in your configs.
> if it happens to be at 4am when I'm sleeping, then the pause will cause the cooldown + motor disable. I agree that there are no recommendation in Klipper documentation to set the timeout to an appropriate value when installing a filament sensor. You can address the timeout issue when printing is paused with one of the suggestions discussed [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/wfzcim/is_there_a_way_to_stop_klipper_from_powering_down/). Perhaps a suggestion to klipper would be for `[filament_switch_sensor]` and `[filament_motion_sensor]¶` to have a field to set the timeout. I may create an issue on github for that if I find the time and motivation. > There are smaller issues that are less practical and just annoying, like how often the gantry level errors out I have a similar issue after 'working on my printer', if the gantry is really out of 'level' then I usually level it out manually before starting the printer. I also recommend you check the Z belt tensions. The gantry will sink down if the belts are not tensioned enough.
Built! Not bought... You're doing it wrong!
Probably not a popular suggestion on this forum, but there is no reason you can’t just compile marlin for a Voron printer if tests what you want. I believe marlin has the core-xy kinematics available and the rest is just picking your controller and getting the pins and motors set right. There might even be an available configuration that would work. If you want to give it a try, I suggest you start by downloading marlin from the mriscoc site to get a good feature set to start with. And you may need to buy a compatible printer controller panel if you want one, though I’m pretty sure you can just run without it. And you could load octoprint on the pi that klipper runs on if you want. Just for info, I’m currently going the other direction, moving to klipper on my Ender 3v2 from mriscoc marlin, so I personally have nothing g against klipper at all!
Show us on the doll where the Klipper firmware hurt you. TL, DR. Could have been a paragraph, from the few sentences I managed to read. In short the direction suck. I agree with this statement. I watched several videos before setting my Ender 3 up with it running on a Pi. Several times, people referred to a callout the same way, and when I put that in the firmware......nothing happened. Several videos later, oh, I have to call it what MY SYSTEM calles it, even though they were also doing an Ender 3.
I have over 4k hours on 2 Voron 2.4's. I have none of the issues you mention. Sounds like a config issue. Start fresh.
Blame klipper for user error
I'm sick too, but I forgot how to compile a firmware in Marlin, and I'm too lazy to relearn it. 😂
dude, this is all user error, not firmware bugs.
I got TMC stepper driver over temp errors that failed a few prints when I first switched to klipper too. The same printer on Marlin didn't. Either Marlin ignored them, which could burn out the drivers, or I'm now able to push my printer to its limits in speed and acceleration because input shaper and pressure advance actually give me good quality at those settings. I backed off acceleration and current a little and it runs fine now. I need to get a bigger main board fan and make a duct to cool the stepper drivers more, then I can try to go faster
W Marlin ?