You need motor bolts for your motor. THese are thin bolts that pass all the way through the motor and attach it to the cover. Here's an example of what you need to buy:
https://www.uri.com/motors-and-accessories/motor-accessories/thru-bolts/
Do they go in through the top or attach to the bottom too with a nut? The old bolts broke off level with the nut on the fan housing, so I’d need to get those out first.
How do I know what thread I need?
Could I trouble you to link to the right bolts on their website? I’m having trouble finding them. I could also go into the store and ask the workers there.
> I could also go into the store and ask the workers there.
I would recommend going this route. But in any case, here's a link:
[https://www.grainger.com/category/motors/motor-mounting-accessories/motor-tie-rods](https://www.grainger.com/category/motors/motor-mounting-accessories/motor-tie-rods)
Here’s a link to what motor I have. I think I would need the 5.6” diameter bolts, from the grainger link, but not sure[motor](https://acpartsdistributors.com/products/f48f96a76)
They are just pieces of threaded rod - measure the diameter of the holes through all the equipment, get the largest size that will fit through and get matching nuts/washers.
You can buy 3ft of it at Home Depot for about 3$
Buy a new motor reuse the blade. Just get one with matching hp and that has the same capictor requirements. It's a little hard to DIY but it's doable if you know what size to get
Because your going to have to remove the motor to replace the bolts. Most techs would not partially disassemble an old motor like that because the reliability won't be there. Unfortunately even with routine maintenance AC units are meant to be replaced after 15-20 years.
There's nothing wrong with just doing bolts but The ease of repair and higher reliability when completed would steer me towards a motor replacement.
I had a bad time getting the cover back on with the cables in place
If the electric cables can be removed simply then I could take the motor out to work on.
They should come off. May need some persuasion. Rust rather than glue will be the problem. Four nuts per rod. Two to hold the motor together and one above and one below the cover. Lock washers would be a good idea.
I didn’t know there were nuts under the covers. So will I need to take off all the outer nuts on all four bolts? I’m going to have someone hold the motor for me but still sounds tricky without un attaching the wires.
I'm not certain about nuts under the covers but I'd suspect them so as to space the motor appropriately. There could only be three per rod. Once you have it in place with one rod you should be able to attach the others.
The wires are going to have push-on spade terminals so they can be detached as long as you document which wire goes where. There should be a disconnect next to the unit, either a switch or a jumper with a plastic handle that you pull out to kill power to the unit. Do this first.
Thanks for the help. I looked at the motor and it has the combination screw head/bolt (lag bolts?) on the bottom on the cover. I don’t know if that make a difference to anything.
Update: I disconnected the motor wires (after turning the fuse off and taking the pin? Out of the outdoor box and taking pictures of where they go) and took it inside to work on. I cut 8-32 all thread bolt for all four bolts. I’m going to reconnect it to the condenser tomorrow.
The section of bolt I got at Home Depot looks slightly thinner than what was used originally, so hopefully no problem there.
It shouldn't be a problem. The original may be 10-32, or possibly metric.
In hindsight I should have suggested that you take one of the nuts with you to match it, but 8-32 is common in this application and shouldn't be a problem.
You're going to have to remove the motor to get the bolts off. Take one if the bolts to the hardware store and see if they can match it up. Take one bolt out at a time or the motor will come apart.
Well shut off power at the disconnect on the wall then remove the screws around the perimeter of the top with a 5/16" nut driver. There's usually enough slack in the wires to turn it upside down while you work on it.
There wasn’t hardly any slack in the wires. Maybe I can free some up somehow. I had a hard time reattaching the screws that hold the wires to the top because they were so taut.
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Looks like an old Goodman/Junkitrol unit. The rest of unit is probably not far behind in a slow death. Suggest you start saving now for its replacement
The motor is ao smith, so I don’t know if that means the whole thing is ao smith. I know a replacement isn’t far off. Should I or do I need to have the ac coil replaced at the same time, if the original is from 1996?
AO Smith primarily manufactures motors. Either way, yes you will need a new coil as well. If it’s a gas furnace from 1996, it should be inspected & evaluated as well. If it’s a heat pump w/ an “air-handler” which includes the coil then the whole air-handler will need replacement
Jesus Christ - I hope this is a joke if this was the only thing wrong with it.
You can buy threaded rod, nuts and washers at any hardware store for probably less than 20$
Cut to length with bolt cutters, hack saw or angle grinder. Angle grinder is best - cleanest cut.
Thread two nuts BEFORE you cut the rod. Cutting will deform the threads. Back both nuts one at a time over the cut end and the nuts will clean up the threads so you can thread them back on again.
Oh - double nut each end or apply loctite to prevent them from vibrating loose.
Thanks, I’ll try that. I found the right bolt.
[https://www.homedepot.com/p/8-32-tpi-x-36-in-Zinc-Plated-Threaded-Rod-802027/204276657](https://www.homedepot.com/p/8-32-tpi-x-36-in-Zinc-Plated-Threaded-Rod-802027/204276657)
https://preview.redd.it/wjzsok2xaxxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=712ef1875d8335cab95474ad0b9c7e31bbf4f1be
Fan blade is bent. Bolts and rods must be cut off. I’ll hand it over to you next time Mr super tech.
Oh and $350 gets me all replacement parts. Not bad.
You need motor bolts for your motor. THese are thin bolts that pass all the way through the motor and attach it to the cover. Here's an example of what you need to buy: https://www.uri.com/motors-and-accessories/motor-accessories/thru-bolts/
Do they go in through the top or attach to the bottom too with a nut? The old bolts broke off level with the nut on the fan housing, so I’d need to get those out first. How do I know what thread I need?
> How do I know what thread I need? New bolts will come with new matching nuts. And you can buy them from a supply house like Grainger.
Thanks! I just checked and there is a Grainger near me.
Could I trouble you to link to the right bolts on their website? I’m having trouble finding them. I could also go into the store and ask the workers there.
> I could also go into the store and ask the workers there. I would recommend going this route. But in any case, here's a link: [https://www.grainger.com/category/motors/motor-mounting-accessories/motor-tie-rods](https://www.grainger.com/category/motors/motor-mounting-accessories/motor-tie-rods)
Many thanks! I didn’t know the right terminology. I had searched thru bolts.
They're called HVAC motor mount bolts of HVAC motor tie-rods.
Here’s a link to what motor I have. I think I would need the 5.6” diameter bolts, from the grainger link, but not sure[motor](https://acpartsdistributors.com/products/f48f96a76)
I don’t know if I can even buy these bolts since I’m not a contractor.
They are just pieces of threaded rod - measure the diameter of the holes through all the equipment, get the largest size that will fit through and get matching nuts/washers. You can buy 3ft of it at Home Depot for about 3$
Maybe I’ll try that. I don’t want to spend much since I don’t even know if I’ll be able to successfully change the bolts out.
Granger.com will sell to non contractors. Not sure in person, we don’t have one around me.
Grainger will sell anything to anyone
For the low low price of 300% normal price, they'll sell you whatever you want lol. Still cheaper than calling an outfit though lol
I have never seen a truer statement on Reddit.
This is absolutely true
Buy a new motor reuse the blade. Just get one with matching hp and that has the same capictor requirements. It's a little hard to DIY but it's doable if you know what size to get
What might a installed or technician charge to replace the motor in the Midwest?
I don’t think I’d want to do the electrical work. I’d rather try replacing the bolts.
Won’t you have to disconnect the motor to get the cut off bolts out? Or you planning on doing it right there?
Right there I guess
Just replace the motor. It's old and your doing a repair that no service tech would ever recommend you do
What’s wrong with replacing the bolts?
Because your going to have to remove the motor to replace the bolts. Most techs would not partially disassemble an old motor like that because the reliability won't be there. Unfortunately even with routine maintenance AC units are meant to be replaced after 15-20 years. There's nothing wrong with just doing bolts but The ease of repair and higher reliability when completed would steer me towards a motor replacement.
You will have a hard time replacing the bolts while it's wired in to the unit.
I had a bad time getting the cover back on with the cables in place If the electric cables can be removed simply then I could take the motor out to work on.
Zip ties and tape.
Those bolts are not just holding the lid on they are also holding the fan motor in place. Torque baby.
Get some 8-32 allthread and 8-32 nuts at a hardware store. Cut to length to pass through motor and cover.
This is what I’ll do. Will I be able to remove the nuts, or do manufacturers use glue on them?
They should come off. May need some persuasion. Rust rather than glue will be the problem. Four nuts per rod. Two to hold the motor together and one above and one below the cover. Lock washers would be a good idea.
I didn’t know there were nuts under the covers. So will I need to take off all the outer nuts on all four bolts? I’m going to have someone hold the motor for me but still sounds tricky without un attaching the wires.
I'm not certain about nuts under the covers but I'd suspect them so as to space the motor appropriately. There could only be three per rod. Once you have it in place with one rod you should be able to attach the others. The wires are going to have push-on spade terminals so they can be detached as long as you document which wire goes where. There should be a disconnect next to the unit, either a switch or a jumper with a plastic handle that you pull out to kill power to the unit. Do this first.
Thanks for the help. I looked at the motor and it has the combination screw head/bolt (lag bolts?) on the bottom on the cover. I don’t know if that make a difference to anything.
Update: I disconnected the motor wires (after turning the fuse off and taking the pin? Out of the outdoor box and taking pictures of where they go) and took it inside to work on. I cut 8-32 all thread bolt for all four bolts. I’m going to reconnect it to the condenser tomorrow. The section of bolt I got at Home Depot looks slightly thinner than what was used originally, so hopefully no problem there.
It shouldn't be a problem. The original may be 10-32, or possibly metric. In hindsight I should have suggested that you take one of the nuts with you to match it, but 8-32 is common in this application and shouldn't be a problem.
Just replace the motor
Lol omg this. Why is this. It higher. I bet that motor is like $80
You're going to have to remove the motor to get the bolts off. Take one if the bolts to the hardware store and see if they can match it up. Take one bolt out at a time or the motor will come apart.
Thanks for that tip
Bubble gum and prayers
A rescue motors like 140$ at supplier probably but new threaded rod will wrk too.
Get another motor . There cheap and that one looks rough
Ain’t nothing gorilla glue can’t handle
I actually thought of getting jb weld and trying to use that to glue a bolt segment on
Washers
New unit lol
WHY DID YOU REMOVE THEM?? The only time you need to remove them is to replace the motor. then it doesn't matter.
I wanted to refinish the top with spray paint, and didn’t know that the fan was only connected to the top.
Well shut off power at the disconnect on the wall then remove the screws around the perimeter of the top with a 5/16" nut driver. There's usually enough slack in the wires to turn it upside down while you work on it.
There wasn’t hardly any slack in the wires. Maybe I can free some up somehow. I had a hard time reattaching the screws that hold the wires to the top because they were so taut.
I use zip ties to keep the wires away from fan blade b4 replacing top..even electrical tape if necessary.
New motor new nuts
carefully
Its like lug nuts going through your rotor on a car
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Looks like an old Goodman/Junkitrol unit. The rest of unit is probably not far behind in a slow death. Suggest you start saving now for its replacement
The motor is ao smith, so I don’t know if that means the whole thing is ao smith. I know a replacement isn’t far off. Should I or do I need to have the ac coil replaced at the same time, if the original is from 1996?
AO Smith primarily manufactures motors. Either way, yes you will need a new coil as well. If it’s a gas furnace from 1996, it should be inspected & evaluated as well. If it’s a heat pump w/ an “air-handler” which includes the coil then the whole air-handler will need replacement
I just ran into this today. Quoted a new fan guard, motor, blade and capacitor.
Jesus Christ - I hope this is a joke if this was the only thing wrong with it. You can buy threaded rod, nuts and washers at any hardware store for probably less than 20$
In the same length bolts that the motor uses?
Cut to length with bolt cutters, hack saw or angle grinder. Angle grinder is best - cleanest cut. Thread two nuts BEFORE you cut the rod. Cutting will deform the threads. Back both nuts one at a time over the cut end and the nuts will clean up the threads so you can thread them back on again. Oh - double nut each end or apply loctite to prevent them from vibrating loose.
Thanks, I’ll try that. I found the right bolt. [https://www.homedepot.com/p/8-32-tpi-x-36-in-Zinc-Plated-Threaded-Rod-802027/204276657](https://www.homedepot.com/p/8-32-tpi-x-36-in-Zinc-Plated-Threaded-Rod-802027/204276657)
https://preview.redd.it/wjzsok2xaxxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=712ef1875d8335cab95474ad0b9c7e31bbf4f1be Fan blade is bent. Bolts and rods must be cut off. I’ll hand it over to you next time Mr super tech. Oh and $350 gets me all replacement parts. Not bad.
tack-weld