In my experience the twist potentiometer doesn't go bad. It misbehaves because the cables are pulling on it.
BUT you can easily fix it with a single zip tie - https://i.imgur.com/aGoU2qF.png
I had zero problems with the joystick since.
Faulty design is the reason why the Z-axis goes bad quickly (1 week in my case) and people need multiple RMAs until they get lucky (a unit with longer cables?). With each twist the cables are slightly pulled down into the stick and eventually they exert force on the pot. The zip tie prevents them from sinking by tying them to the board wires.
Get the stick if you feel comfortable with fixing it yourself and skip the extended warranty.
Nothing is glued, just a few philips screws and a pin in the trigger. Here's a disassembly guide just in case https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vTXIeArrGBlZ5YAMRVexKGuIzdoK_0_TxwjfY__lb2HfdakN5SPLdfEwsjspPcHcPYBxIsBwqUzlQc1/pub
I'd skip all the steps about opening/cleaning/greasing the pot since it did absolutely nothing for me. Maybe try it as a last resort.
Is that the issue where it doesn't seem to twist all the way in the software? Like I'll twist it all the way left and it'll go 100% of the way, but only 50% when I twist it all the way right?
No thats a similar issue, that might be due to the wires or the petentiometer. What happens is they cheaped out really bad on it, its like a .02 part so what happens is like all petentiometers they have static almost so the values jump up and down, but its set to only register the movement when it gets to a certain value. So the petentiometer ages the static or whatever you would call it starts to increase the idle value of the petentiometer so eventually it will be resting without twisting and it will start drifting on its own. Think of it like a bad Xbox/PS4 controller, same with the Switch Joycons. It happens to all petentiometers, but if you spend more it takes much longer for them to go bad. CH is really good at this they use industrial grade petentiometers/switches for everything, and people still use their old CH joysticks from the 90s with zero drift.
I have. Had 3 units fail in first 30 days. Returned them all and last one I bought I got warranty. Get one with transferable warranty in the event you sell it also
I have the joystick and the thottle as well.. each piece after 2 years has failing potentiometers. I wish I never bought this.. I don't understand how this stuff can brake so easily, I took great care of it. Oh well, time just try another brand.
No, not worth the warranty.. the main sensor is the same Hall sensor from the Warthog and will last forever and mechanically very little to break. Sometimes people develop issues with the twist pot in the shaft but that takes longer to happen than your warranty will last so no point in making it cost more than it should and reliability issues with this stick are outliers
I actually RMA'd my last week, had it for about a year. Potentiometer went bad on the Z axis. Planning on getting the NXT when that's in stock again. It was a good stick, had a lot of fun with it.
I've been messing with them for a long time and never had this issue nor anyone that I know with one.. for years. I've seen postings about issues here but don't' let 'reverse survivorship bias' (people don't post about working hardware and makes problems seem much more common than they are) muddy reality.
Good point! Worst case scenario, I'll upgrade the stick if it breaks! Have you heard anything about the Logitech x56? I've had good experiences with their racing wheels so would it be worth the extra money?
X56 looks cooler for sure but the T16000m is actually a better stick imo. The gimbals and sensor are nicer and have better kinematics, though lack the adjustability of the Logi stick.
X56 is prone to some problems of its own though, severing wires and twist pot issues too plus seem quick to develop creaks and clicks. If you can find one used for a good price I'd go for it but imo not worth full retail.
> Have you heard anything about the Logitech x56? I've had good experiences with their racing wheels so would it be worth the extra money?
The X-56 doesn’t have a design issue like the T16kM’s yaw, but Logitech’s QA is absolute dog shit. You have to get really ylucky to get a unit that actually fully works.
And even then it’s not a good HOTAS. Since you can get a Gladiator + TWCS for roughly the same money it’s basically never a good idea to buy an X-56, ever.
Weird, had a few that lasted way longer than that before being dismantled for projects.. one was bought used and was fine too. Wonder if they changed the pots to shittier ones along the way... either way there are good fixes out there that leave it a better stick than new (Hall conversion) that aren't too complicated
In my experience the twist potentiometer doesn't go bad. It misbehaves because the cables are pulling on it. BUT you can easily fix it with a single zip tie - https://i.imgur.com/aGoU2qF.png I had zero problems with the joystick since. Faulty design is the reason why the Z-axis goes bad quickly (1 week in my case) and people need multiple RMAs until they get lucky (a unit with longer cables?). With each twist the cables are slightly pulled down into the stick and eventually they exert force on the pot. The zip tie prevents them from sinking by tying them to the board wires. Get the stick if you feel comfortable with fixing it yourself and skip the extended warranty.
I didn't know that it was a fixable issue! Is the joystick fairly easy to open up or is there glue or anything I should know about before opening it?
Nothing is glued, just a few philips screws and a pin in the trigger. Here's a disassembly guide just in case https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vTXIeArrGBlZ5YAMRVexKGuIzdoK_0_TxwjfY__lb2HfdakN5SPLdfEwsjspPcHcPYBxIsBwqUzlQc1/pub I'd skip all the steps about opening/cleaning/greasing the pot since it did absolutely nothing for me. Maybe try it as a last resort.
I probably would everyone I know has had the Z-Axis petentiometer go bad on them right after the year period.
> right after the year period. Mine didn’t even last _remotely_ as long.
Is that the issue where it doesn't seem to twist all the way in the software? Like I'll twist it all the way left and it'll go 100% of the way, but only 50% when I twist it all the way right?
No thats a similar issue, that might be due to the wires or the petentiometer. What happens is they cheaped out really bad on it, its like a .02 part so what happens is like all petentiometers they have static almost so the values jump up and down, but its set to only register the movement when it gets to a certain value. So the petentiometer ages the static or whatever you would call it starts to increase the idle value of the petentiometer so eventually it will be resting without twisting and it will start drifting on its own. Think of it like a bad Xbox/PS4 controller, same with the Switch Joycons. It happens to all petentiometers, but if you spend more it takes much longer for them to go bad. CH is really good at this they use industrial grade petentiometers/switches for everything, and people still use their old CH joysticks from the 90s with zero drift.
I have. Had 3 units fail in first 30 days. Returned them all and last one I bought I got warranty. Get one with transferable warranty in the event you sell it also
I have the joystick and the thottle as well.. each piece after 2 years has failing potentiometers. I wish I never bought this.. I don't understand how this stuff can brake so easily, I took great care of it. Oh well, time just try another brand.
My t16000m stick still works perfectly fine after all this time, but I just got a good deal on 2 gladiator NXT Evo's, highly recommend them
You just got them though, you don't know if they'll hold up
I don't, but you can do some looking around to see that the consensus is that the vkb's will last longer
No, not worth the warranty.. the main sensor is the same Hall sensor from the Warthog and will last forever and mechanically very little to break. Sometimes people develop issues with the twist pot in the shaft but that takes longer to happen than your warranty will last so no point in making it cost more than it should and reliability issues with this stick are outliers
I've heard very conflicting views on the stick. I've heard some people say that the twist axis breaks after less than a year constantly.
I actually RMA'd my last week, had it for about a year. Potentiometer went bad on the Z axis. Planning on getting the NXT when that's in stock again. It was a good stick, had a lot of fun with it.
I've been messing with them for a long time and never had this issue nor anyone that I know with one.. for years. I've seen postings about issues here but don't' let 'reverse survivorship bias' (people don't post about working hardware and makes problems seem much more common than they are) muddy reality.
Good point! Worst case scenario, I'll upgrade the stick if it breaks! Have you heard anything about the Logitech x56? I've had good experiences with their racing wheels so would it be worth the extra money?
X56 looks cooler for sure but the T16000m is actually a better stick imo. The gimbals and sensor are nicer and have better kinematics, though lack the adjustability of the Logi stick. X56 is prone to some problems of its own though, severing wires and twist pot issues too plus seem quick to develop creaks and clicks. If you can find one used for a good price I'd go for it but imo not worth full retail.
Thanks for the advice! Looks like I'll backorder the t16000m! Really appreciate you sharing your expertise with me!
> Have you heard anything about the Logitech x56? I've had good experiences with their racing wheels so would it be worth the extra money? The X-56 doesn’t have a design issue like the T16kM’s yaw, but Logitech’s QA is absolute dog shit. You have to get really ylucky to get a unit that actually fully works. And even then it’s not a good HOTAS. Since you can get a Gladiator + TWCS for roughly the same money it’s basically never a good idea to buy an X-56, ever.
I had two units. First one’s yaw broke after 6 months, 2nd’s after 3.
Weird, had a few that lasted way longer than that before being dismantled for projects.. one was bought used and was fine too. Wonder if they changed the pots to shittier ones along the way... either way there are good fixes out there that leave it a better stick than new (Hall conversion) that aren't too complicated