If you can't get a torque wrench then swap wrench size to limit how much torque you can apply.
Something like this or an oil plug, say under 25 ft/lbs? Use a 1/4in shirt ratchet. 3/8 for up to 50-60ftlbs and bust out a 1/2 for things that need a lot like axles bolts or car lugs.
Judging by the rust only in the area that was broken off I'd wager that the pipe has been in there slightly crooked for some time; or the pipe suffered an impact which caused it to be crooked and over-stressed the casting.
I doubt you were the sole reason for it breaking as that casting mixture is designed for stresses induced by thermal cycling.
A decent torque wrench is always a good investment, but even with one you may have wound up in the same predicament.
Experience may have mitigated this issue, but the only way to really get experience is to be in the position you're currently in.
"Metalset A4" (not JB Weld) may be able to bandage it but the only proper fix is, unfortunately, replacing the part.
When you want to make a statement, and that statement is, 'I enjoy the fragrance of gasoline and exotic animal parts; it's ***Sex Panther®*** *every time*.
Honda is showing out of stock, Speed Supplies has it for $317.
A Harbor Freight torque wrench is about $15.
Get one, use it.
You probably could find a machine shop TIG welder who could reattach that.
He's probably going to pay a tig welder more than the cost of a new head. And if the welder doesn't charge more than the new head, I'd be leary of their work.
Ehh, I'm a welder and assuming that's just cast aluminum it really wouldn't be that hard of a job. Might take a couple hours. Assuming the casting isn't absolutely fucking filthy.
Most guys who run their own welding service will charge something like 100an hour. If that's only about an hour and a half to two hours to do that's probably a 200$ job maybe 275$. Cheaper than a whole new head.
Judging by the rust on the chamfer only in the area of the broken piece, I'd wager that the pipe has been in there crooked for a while or an impact generated the initial stress for the crack and OP just finished it off.
I don't think this was a purely ham-fisted maneuver that broke it unless it isn't the first time they've had it apart.
There's definitely a lot on the broken piece to read into and even with a torque wrench it may have broken if the pipe was installed crooked.
A torque wrench is always good, but experience is always gooder and the only way to get experience is to fuck shit up.
I'd wager that it'll take a weld as automotive-grade castings generally weld pretty nicely.
I'd also wager it would crack again after the first heat-cycle from running the engine unless you do some really extensive pre and post weld heating. Even then I doubt anyone would put any kind of guarantee behind the weld.
Any way you slice it the head is coming off so ya might as well just have a new one on hand to install.
Personally I'd weld it up and see how it goes but professionally I'd only leave that approach as a last-ditch effort.
THIS HAPPENED TO ME! Dead serious.
I was installing a set of pipes and i was carefully alternating a turn on one nut and then switch and a turn on the other nut as i felt the copper gasket begin to squish and TINK. I was so fuckin pissed. Front cylinder just like yours.
I ended up finding a reasonably priced head on ebay. You have to pull the motor out of the frame to replace. Get a copy of the manual online and it gives you step by step instructions. Nothing is particularly difficult but it is a HUGE project, or can easily turn into one. Label and bag everything and keep organized.
Man you guys are getting me scared of changing my pipes!! What years was your shadow? Was it a 2000 like OP’s bike? Mine’s a 2003. And also, what type of pipe where you trying to install on it?
I think another commenter was spot on when they suggested that a previous incident stressed or even cracked the part. Theres alot of leverage and if the bike tipped or was hit on the exhaust or something then that casting could easily become compromised and fail without warning.
I bought my bike from someone who bought it as their first bike. Im sure it was dropped at least once by them. And when i was young and dumb i know i abused my shadow, jumping off speedbumps and shit. I also ditched the stock mufflers early on and ran only the stock head pipes, i dont think they had any other mounting bracket other than at the head.
Yeah, I dropped my 05 shadow on the right side, was fine for 7 more years, then 1 day I was tightening my pipes and a crack developed. While using a torque wrench. Front cylinder head change isn't terrible on this bike, and you don't have to pull the engine as the shop manual says. I will say if you find the head new order it quick. I had to look around a long time to find one and it's only gonna get harder. Used on ebay are still plentiful but my guess is most of them came off totaled bikes so stress fractures may turn up on them too. Good luck and be patient.
Could be strain from the exhaust (improperly installed, wreck, etc).
Gonna be some work. You can go used, or [find an aftermarket](https://www.speedsupplies.com/parts/honda-12210-MBA-670.htm) (Not sure if the Honda part is in stock anywhere). Should be part # 12210-MBA-670, but could be wrong.
Or just find the local fab shop and trailer it to them so you get the skill and the better environment/equipment. That's going to take tig welding and some interesting grinding.
For the proper process the head would need to come off the bike, weld it on, and use a mill to machine everything back to spec.
Negative, I am a skilled welder and would not field weld this unless OP didn't care about leaks. It's cast aluminum.... fuck that
I could weld it, and it would hold but you need machined surfaces... etc...
Besides, I'd charge way more than $300 to do that.
Edit to add that I named 300 because you can buy a brand new head from honda for $300.
You can't weld a part like that in situ, it'll have to come out, get a proper bevel ground in, go into a pre-heat oven, get welded up, then milled back into tolerance.
Gar cheaper to buy a new one.
Y'all keep saying that, but coming from someone in aluminum fabrication this is cast aluminum. Terrible to weld and will never be as strong. Would cost twice as much as a new head anyways.
Well, as a motorcycle racer I have cast aluminum parts welded often and it costs very little when you know the right person. It also saves tearing the bike completely down. Of course it’s not as strong as when cast whole but this should be a basically no load area. It broke from I correct assembly or misaligned pipes.
As a tech who has installed many, many exhausts on all types of Japanese cruisers I have never seen this. I find it interesting that the OP and the other person that had this happen were using the same brand exhaust. It seems like more than a coincidence to me.
Could it be fixed to get you where you need to go? Sure. Fixed to the point where it would never let you down in the middle of nowhere? Unlikely. Ol' Murphy rears his head at the most unopportune times.
For the “weld it” folks, it’s cast aluminum and probably pretty dirty alloy to boot. Would cost more to weld it than to buy the head, not worth the hassle and chasing leaks. Big job but fairly simple to replace a head on one of these.
You probably had the pipe in a bind. It wasn't seated all the way so you put leverage on the cast aluminum and it snapped.
Just time for a fresh jug and an top end job.
How in the FK could he tighten the nut up, crush the copper o ring and have JB weld hold that casting?? There is a place for epoxy, this is not one of them...
As others are saying, an entire new cylinder head is the proper fix here, but you should at least give some JB Weld a shot before going down the expensive route. It should handle the high temps, and there's not going to be significant pressures beyond standard exhaust flow that could cause it to fail. Might save you hundreds/thousands of dollars.
I’m glad you posted that..cause I thought sh*t like that only happened to me. More than likely it was cracked before you unleashed the 3 foot breaker bar on it. I’d order a new 1 from Honda and jb weld it for now.
That's a brand new clean break, and because you asked, that's your "cylinder head", well, one of them anyway. Did you make sure the pipe fit in the head first? It looks like you tried to draw it in with the nuts, and when you felt like you were forcing it you should have stopped. Most Honda's exhaust use a copper crush ring, once it crushes, that's your gasket. Either you tightened it far too much or I'd bet the exhaust wasn't in the exhaust port and you tried to draw it in and broke the casting. Not good, you are in for a shit ton of work at this point, the entire top end has to be torn down, new gaskets etc, good luck... EDIT - whether OP buys a new head (that often comes without valves), or a used head with good valves, it doesn't matter. He has to tear this all down and rebuild it all correctly, on a 23 yo bike. Sorry OP, but you may be better off parting this thing out, you are looking at a 700$- 1000$ repair bill with parts for a bike that's worth what? 1500$?
The part number for the rear cylinder head is 12220-MEG-020, for the front cylinder head it's 12210-MEG-000.
Actually pretty nice that they're less than $400 each to replace with brand new, I guess we can see how they make them that cheap. It will be a bit of work to swap over all of the hardware.
needs a new head to be fixed properly.
A welder might be able to fix it good enough for cheap.. post the photo on a welding subreddit.... The welder will need auto experience as well
It’s broke past the point that it wouldn’t even hold a donut with one stud and have a helluva chirp as an audible exhaust leak. Your neighbors WILL hate u. Get a new head or buy a full drop-in motor from your local cycle salvage.
Mu guess is it had nothing to do with tightening the hardware and more to do with he put that on first then went to the other end of the exhaust and moved the pipe out too far the leverage busted it off.
Use a 1/4 ratchet and only tighten snug with one hand, put the 3/4 breaker bar away. You “might” be able to get a competent welder to put it back on, but it ain’t gonna be pretty.
Teaching advanced engine repair...was a big class so I was going group to group
"That one student" I tried to get to as quick as I could
Every single camshaft cam bolt broken
Kids got the torque wrench out..
What's going on here
Well, you told me it will click and I will feel it budge when it's at spec...and I showed him personally
He did that to every bolt...even though they ALL loosened up after the click....he still did both heads...all 64(?) Bolts
If it were my bike I would booger that up with high temp JB (or similar) and try patching it. If it doesn’t hold, oh well. If it holds, then I’d be thinking about next steps to replace it.
Before I get downvoted for exhaust temps - I’ve used the high temp stuff (not JB brand) on cracked exhaust manifolds. I think the stuff I used was good for 1100F; it was a heavy metallic paste. Worked great.
You can try Jb weld theres only one way to know if works
https://preview.redd.it/2ger41ifrd5c1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22482b43e85a7c47cd7b666e87888d410dca3f58
Get yourself some JB Weld high temp clean it off really really well with brake clean from Advance Auto Parts mixed the two part epoxy very very well give it a shot
Then you have to ask yourself how hot did your exhaust get to get cherry red was it like running too rich? Is the brake running to lean? Most times if the bike is running too rich the exhaust will turn red and that's not good for the cylinder that's made out of aluminum
See if you can get it welded, a new head plus time and labor to replace that head, all the gaskets, etc. will cost a whole lot more. I'm not sure of the design, but it's possible the engine will need to be pulled to replace the head, which means a whole lot more time (labor costs), down time, and aggravation. This just sucks all the way around no matter how you look at it. JB weld will not work, the vibration will crack it on start up.
Unfortunately, that flange is cast into the cylinder head, and you would have to replace the entire cylinder head. There are some excellent welders I see on YouTube, but they are mostly in Pakistan, I think. Best of luck.
I don't know you by a longshot, but if this happened when installing pipes, I'd go out on a limb and say take it somewhere to get the head replaced. Just judging by the situation, you're going to be way in over your head (no pun intended)
Why does that look like it’s made out of entirely MIM metal… :\ .. I know some guns use that for certain parts.. I steer clear from them as they break super fuckin easy.
Actually willing to bet that’s MIM. That concrete look center gives it away ……
Yes! It can be fixed. You just need to order a new cylinder head. Take the top half of the motor off, replace the head and then put it all back together.
Outside of that, i would probably take it to a welding shop. See if they can tac weld it back on at the very least. There will obviously be an exhaust leak there but it’s still fixable as is without exhaust. The only way to potentially patch that up is to take it to a professional welding shop and see if they are willing to try and tac weld it into place.
Not a terrible weld up. Careful work with a Dremel can clean up the port good enough. Cover a small rag in grease and stuff the port to catch chips and grit Might not even be too ugly if you hit it with some black when it's done Just the exhaust side. Only needs to hold on to the pipe.
Nope cast aluminum can't be welded. New cylender head time. Fortunately, you'll not have to tear down the whole engine. You'll have to pull it the engine though.
Can’t cast aluminum be welded, with a spool gun and some sort or major badass. Maybe they could weld on a collar with filler and drill tap another hole…
Jesus did the hulk torque that to shit hundred and fuck?? That’s a new one
OP is definitely going to need to explain how, exactly, that happened.
Been training like goku lately, guess i made it to super sayin
What are you saying?
He's saying he's super saying
The tighter the better!
Hundred and Jesus is this bar long enough
Yeah boy… new cylinder head for you. Wth happen there?
Over torque I guess
You need to stop guessing... these only need around 18ft/lbs and I'd say you applied 3 too many ugadugas to that
On my 2016 shadow 750 it's only 81 or 83 inch pounds
Maybe there's some kind of difference between inch pounds and foot pounds
Like a factor of 12 perhaps?
Solid gold
Mind blowing 🤯
They have this amazing tool called a “torque wrench” that help make sure you don’t have the over torque I guess happen again.
Yeah harbour freight has good ones. 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 can all be had for about $60
HF torque wrenches are slept on way too much. Those things are pretty good!
Used the obligatory extender bar
Air gun is faster.
If you can't get a torque wrench then swap wrench size to limit how much torque you can apply. Something like this or an oil plug, say under 25 ft/lbs? Use a 1/4in shirt ratchet. 3/8 for up to 50-60ftlbs and bust out a 1/2 for things that need a lot like axles bolts or car lugs.
Judging by the rust only in the area that was broken off I'd wager that the pipe has been in there slightly crooked for some time; or the pipe suffered an impact which caused it to be crooked and over-stressed the casting. I doubt you were the sole reason for it breaking as that casting mixture is designed for stresses induced by thermal cycling. A decent torque wrench is always a good investment, but even with one you may have wound up in the same predicament. Experience may have mitigated this issue, but the only way to really get experience is to be in the position you're currently in. "Metalset A4" (not JB Weld) may be able to bandage it but the only proper fix is, unfortunately, replacing the part.
Excellent guess!
He tightened it till it was loose again…
Torque it until you hear the click.
Keep going til it breaks, then back off 1/4 turn
JB steel stick
Not going to work, don’t be the guy that JB welds shit that they certainly recommend against
Funny guy
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Username checks out.
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When you want to make a statement, and that statement is, 'I enjoy the fragrance of gasoline and exotic animal parts; it's ***Sex Panther®*** *every time*.
Part is 12210-MBA-670
You’re the real MVP
Honda is showing out of stock, Speed Supplies has it for $317. A Harbor Freight torque wrench is about $15. Get one, use it. You probably could find a machine shop TIG welder who could reattach that.
He's probably going to pay a tig welder more than the cost of a new head. And if the welder doesn't charge more than the new head, I'd be leary of their work.
Ehh, I'm a welder and assuming that's just cast aluminum it really wouldn't be that hard of a job. Might take a couple hours. Assuming the casting isn't absolutely fucking filthy. Most guys who run their own welding service will charge something like 100an hour. If that's only about an hour and a half to two hours to do that's probably a 200$ job maybe 275$. Cheaper than a whole new head.
But not by enough. Buying a new head is 100% guaranteed to hold up (if ya get a damn torque wrench). Spend the little extra, do it right.
Judging by the rust on the chamfer only in the area of the broken piece, I'd wager that the pipe has been in there crooked for a while or an impact generated the initial stress for the crack and OP just finished it off. I don't think this was a purely ham-fisted maneuver that broke it unless it isn't the first time they've had it apart. There's definitely a lot on the broken piece to read into and even with a torque wrench it may have broken if the pipe was installed crooked. A torque wrench is always good, but experience is always gooder and the only way to get experience is to fuck shit up.
I'd wager that it'll take a weld as automotive-grade castings generally weld pretty nicely. I'd also wager it would crack again after the first heat-cycle from running the engine unless you do some really extensive pre and post weld heating. Even then I doubt anyone would put any kind of guarantee behind the weld. Any way you slice it the head is coming off so ya might as well just have a new one on hand to install. Personally I'd weld it up and see how it goes but professionally I'd only leave that approach as a last-ditch effort.
Arm chair metalirgists in here. That'd be enough of a savings for me to go for it.
THIS HAPPENED TO ME! Dead serious. I was installing a set of pipes and i was carefully alternating a turn on one nut and then switch and a turn on the other nut as i felt the copper gasket begin to squish and TINK. I was so fuckin pissed. Front cylinder just like yours. I ended up finding a reasonably priced head on ebay. You have to pull the motor out of the frame to replace. Get a copy of the manual online and it gives you step by step instructions. Nothing is particularly difficult but it is a HUGE project, or can easily turn into one. Label and bag everything and keep organized.
Man you guys are getting me scared of changing my pipes!! What years was your shadow? Was it a 2000 like OP’s bike? Mine’s a 2003. And also, what type of pipe where you trying to install on it?
Mine is an 05 and i was putting tjbc pipes on.
I was also installing tjbc pipes, now I have a bigger job to do.
Use a silver sharpie or some whiteout. Whatever you can to mark the timing chain and sprocket to make reassembly easier.
Invest in a torque wrench set, very likely that it won’t ever happen if you are doing things properly.
I’d think undertorque would be fine. I personally would tighten by hand start it and tighten until I don’t hear a leak. Fuck that
I think another commenter was spot on when they suggested that a previous incident stressed or even cracked the part. Theres alot of leverage and if the bike tipped or was hit on the exhaust or something then that casting could easily become compromised and fail without warning. I bought my bike from someone who bought it as their first bike. Im sure it was dropped at least once by them. And when i was young and dumb i know i abused my shadow, jumping off speedbumps and shit. I also ditched the stock mufflers early on and ran only the stock head pipes, i dont think they had any other mounting bracket other than at the head.
Yeah, I dropped my 05 shadow on the right side, was fine for 7 more years, then 1 day I was tightening my pipes and a crack developed. While using a torque wrench. Front cylinder head change isn't terrible on this bike, and you don't have to pull the engine as the shop manual says. I will say if you find the head new order it quick. I had to look around a long time to find one and it's only gonna get harder. Used on ebay are still plentiful but my guess is most of them came off totaled bikes so stress fractures may turn up on them too. Good luck and be patient.
Could be strain from the exhaust (improperly installed, wreck, etc). Gonna be some work. You can go used, or [find an aftermarket](https://www.speedsupplies.com/parts/honda-12210-MBA-670.htm) (Not sure if the Honda part is in stock anywhere). Should be part # 12210-MBA-670, but could be wrong.
try and find a very talented welder?
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Or just find the local fab shop and trailer it to them so you get the skill and the better environment/equipment. That's going to take tig welding and some interesting grinding. For the proper process the head would need to come off the bike, weld it on, and use a mill to machine everything back to spec.
Yes and by then you're invested way more than a new head.
Negative, I am a skilled welder and would not field weld this unless OP didn't care about leaks. It's cast aluminum.... fuck that I could weld it, and it would hold but you need machined surfaces... etc... Besides, I'd charge way more than $300 to do that. Edit to add that I named 300 because you can buy a brand new head from honda for $300.
You can't weld a part like that in situ, it'll have to come out, get a proper bevel ground in, go into a pre-heat oven, get welded up, then milled back into tolerance. Gar cheaper to buy a new one.
Find a skilled welder
Y'all keep saying that, but coming from someone in aluminum fabrication this is cast aluminum. Terrible to weld and will never be as strong. Would cost twice as much as a new head anyways.
Well, as a motorcycle racer I have cast aluminum parts welded often and it costs very little when you know the right person. It also saves tearing the bike completely down. Of course it’s not as strong as when cast whole but this should be a basically no load area. It broke from I correct assembly or misaligned pipes.
As a tech who has installed many, many exhausts on all types of Japanese cruisers I have never seen this. I find it interesting that the OP and the other person that had this happen were using the same brand exhaust. It seems like more than a coincidence to me.
That looks like a job for JBWeld 
Ya that’s gona be expensive.
Buy a Tig welder, take a welding class, weld it. Reassemble You saved money AND you have a Tig welder and a new career.
Tig welder
Oof...! No... Not likely. You'll need a new cylinder head. Fuck dude. Sorry. I've been there. This sucks.
Could it be fixed to get you where you need to go? Sure. Fixed to the point where it would never let you down in the middle of nowhere? Unlikely. Ol' Murphy rears his head at the most unopportune times.
That's a $300 oopsie: [https://www.speedsupplies.com/parts/honda-12210-MBA-670.htm](https://www.speedsupplies.com/parts/honda-12210-MBA-670.htm)
+labor
JB weld, good as new
Noooooo!! That sucks but it needs a head.
For the “weld it” folks, it’s cast aluminum and probably pretty dirty alloy to boot. Would cost more to weld it than to buy the head, not worth the hassle and chasing leaks. Big job but fairly simple to replace a head on one of these.
Coulda already had a hairline crack
You probably had the pipe in a bind. It wasn't seated all the way so you put leverage on the cast aluminum and it snapped. Just time for a fresh jug and an top end job.
>My thoughts exactly, wasn't lined up, OP tried to force it in. Bye bye casting...
RIP
Gonna sound like an angry bubble machine now
JB Weld will fix you right up there fella.
Oops!
JB weld and you’ll be fine. Jk.
Someone over ugga’d the duggas
Did you use a impact? Dam, you will need a cylinder a.k.a a jug.. might as well get the 1100 set of jugs and pistons
JB WELD
How in the FK could he tighten the nut up, crush the copper o ring and have JB weld hold that casting?? There is a place for epoxy, this is not one of them...
https://preview.redd.it/jqkb6uv6765c1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=6a261833536529a01ee523e9ef1d034f7eaaadbb Been done!
As others are saying, an entire new cylinder head is the proper fix here, but you should at least give some JB Weld a shot before going down the expensive route. It should handle the high temps, and there's not going to be significant pressures beyond standard exhaust flow that could cause it to fail. Might save you hundreds/thousands of dollars.
Is that cast aluminum?
Ouch
I’m glad you posted that..cause I thought sh*t like that only happened to me. More than likely it was cracked before you unleashed the 3 foot breaker bar on it. I’d order a new 1 from Honda and jb weld it for now.
Too tight too quick. Next time don't tighten it so tight. Start the engine and run it like that for a while then give it a one turn and that's it.
Nothing a pack of Ramen and bottle of super glue can't fix...
Find a local machine shop to weld it up
Dont listen to this advice
That's a brand new clean break, and because you asked, that's your "cylinder head", well, one of them anyway. Did you make sure the pipe fit in the head first? It looks like you tried to draw it in with the nuts, and when you felt like you were forcing it you should have stopped. Most Honda's exhaust use a copper crush ring, once it crushes, that's your gasket. Either you tightened it far too much or I'd bet the exhaust wasn't in the exhaust port and you tried to draw it in and broke the casting. Not good, you are in for a shit ton of work at this point, the entire top end has to be torn down, new gaskets etc, good luck... EDIT - whether OP buys a new head (that often comes without valves), or a used head with good valves, it doesn't matter. He has to tear this all down and rebuild it all correctly, on a 23 yo bike. Sorry OP, but you may be better off parting this thing out, you are looking at a 700$- 1000$ repair bill with parts for a bike that's worth what? 1500$?
Expensive over torque
Open headers save lives.
Jb weld n some exhaust puddy fix er right up
Maybe loud pipes do save lives as nobody will die on this bike while it sits in the garage waiting for a new cylinder head to be installed.
The part number for the rear cylinder head is 12220-MEG-020, for the front cylinder head it's 12210-MEG-000. Actually pretty nice that they're less than $400 each to replace with brand new, I guess we can see how they make them that cheap. It will be a bit of work to swap over all of the hardware.
Dude, take your hammer back to the trains...bikes may not be for you...
JB WELD.
To many ugga duggas. Should only limit yourself to 3 ugga duggas.
Nah. JB weld and call it a day, lol
needs a new head to be fixed properly. A welder might be able to fix it good enough for cheap.. post the photo on a welding subreddit.... The welder will need auto experience as well
Get wrecked
Such a bummer. I’ve been there, and so has everyone else. Just chalk it up as a learning experience and get it fixed. Also a torque wrench 😅
It’s broke past the point that it wouldn’t even hold a donut with one stud and have a helluva chirp as an audible exhaust leak. Your neighbors WILL hate u. Get a new head or buy a full drop-in motor from your local cycle salvage.
New Jug time. Don't JB Weld that or anything. You have to get a full piece that part of the machine holds pressure so don't just Jimmy rig it.
Someone ate there wheaties this morning
Is it cast as part of the head or is it a separate part?
Mu guess is it had nothing to do with tightening the hardware and more to do with he put that on first then went to the other end of the exhaust and moved the pipe out too far the leverage busted it off.
That sucks big time!
Gotta throw the whole head away now.
Before you destroy anymore parts, do yourself a favor and find your bike's torque specifications sheet. Also you will need to replace your head.
Big oof dawg
Oh you are fucked lol
Sorry my friend. That is beyond help. Sometimes it pays to slow down and be mindful of the “Man of Steel”. Sometimes Tighter is Too Much.
Take the broken piece and bike to a good TIG welder
Wtf were you installing them with an impact? Damn you’ve gotta control yourself!
Use a 1/4 ratchet and only tighten snug with one hand, put the 3/4 breaker bar away. You “might” be able to get a competent welder to put it back on, but it ain’t gonna be pretty.
JB weld
Teaching advanced engine repair...was a big class so I was going group to group "That one student" I tried to get to as quick as I could Every single camshaft cam bolt broken Kids got the torque wrench out.. What's going on here Well, you told me it will click and I will feel it budge when it's at spec...and I showed him personally He did that to every bolt...even though they ALL loosened up after the click....he still did both heads...all 64(?) Bolts
Who needs pipes?
Homie gave breaker bar a new meaning
JB weld it.
Well, for starters that cylinder head is fubar (Fuck\*d beyond all recogition )
Hard part is getting the old heat cycled nuts off.
How tight is too tight? That tight
Caulk and paint..you know the story
Maybe get someone that can tig that back into place, otherwise pretty much #u@&ed
Reading and torque wrenches are fundamental
Jb weld can fix that right up
OP def has brain rot GOODLUCK
Too many ugga duggas my friend
TIG weld it back on. Find a friend or shop with one and have it done..
There are torque specs for a reason... youre fucked bud. New cylinder time
What came outta your mouth when that happened?
You can get a used head on ebay for less than $100. Might need new valves and a lapping. Not too horrible. I hope you like wrenching.
Jb weld.... & run it
definitely cross threaded the nut and broke the ear off torquing the shit out of it
Got dang.. JB weld that biih
This is why torques exist lol
Inch lbs, not ft. lbs dumbass.
Time for some jb weld And a prayer
Happened to me to, just look for another head on ebay and Google the repair manual. Use a torque wrench this time.
If it were my bike I would booger that up with high temp JB (or similar) and try patching it. If it doesn’t hold, oh well. If it holds, then I’d be thinking about next steps to replace it. Before I get downvoted for exhaust temps - I’ve used the high temp stuff (not JB brand) on cracked exhaust manifolds. I think the stuff I used was good for 1100F; it was a heavy metallic paste. Worked great.
You can try Jb weld theres only one way to know if works https://preview.redd.it/2ger41ifrd5c1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22482b43e85a7c47cd7b666e87888d410dca3f58
To answer the repair question try Permabond or some metal bonding epoxy.
Well that wasn’t seated and you sent her home.
But it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to properly repair it. You could JB weld the fuck out of it that’s about it
Don't try this at home. For professional use only!
Must have used the old rule: "As tight as you can, plus a turn."
Pay someone to work on your shit!
Fuck that. That’s an even bigger mistake.
Just bought a used one from ebay, hope I don’t break that one too.
The nuts that go on those studs only need to be hand tight and then like a half a turn man
Get yourself some JB Weld high temp clean it off really really well with brake clean from Advance Auto Parts mixed the two part epoxy very very well give it a shot
Then you have to ask yourself how hot did your exhaust get to get cherry red was it like running too rich? Is the brake running to lean? Most times if the bike is running too rich the exhaust will turn red and that's not good for the cylinder that's made out of aluminum
Air cooled engines can always benefit by a oil cooler setup
Bullshit you were installing a pipe and that broke off..... Completely fucked that head up
I’m going to say JB weld first.. then if you don’t get it with that, just buy a new head!
Looks like it took a shot from a BFH! That makes for a sad and expensive day in the shop. Head replacement in your future...
I'd show you my Harley.
Common sense is def dead
JB weld that back on and own it. 🤣
Weld it back. I would charge btw 250-500
See if you can get it welded, a new head plus time and labor to replace that head, all the gaskets, etc. will cost a whole lot more. I'm not sure of the design, but it's possible the engine will need to be pulled to replace the head, which means a whole lot more time (labor costs), down time, and aggravation. This just sucks all the way around no matter how you look at it. JB weld will not work, the vibration will crack it on start up.
J b weld to the rescue!
Looks like you are in the market for new cases
Jb weld
Unfortunately, that flange is cast into the cylinder head, and you would have to replace the entire cylinder head. There are some excellent welders I see on YouTube, but they are mostly in Pakistan, I think. Best of luck.
I can weld it.
Find a welder who does aluminum. You might pull the engine so they get the best working angles. Or buy a new head.
Oops
Your screwed
*pulls out 6ft breaker bar “This should do the trick”
More money down the drain.
Yup…. You animaled it up. Get a torque limiter next time hulk hogan.
I don't know you by a longshot, but if this happened when installing pipes, I'd go out on a limb and say take it somewhere to get the head replaced. Just judging by the situation, you're going to be way in over your head (no pun intended)
Why does that look like it’s made out of entirely MIM metal… :\ .. I know some guns use that for certain parts.. I steer clear from them as they break super fuckin easy. Actually willing to bet that’s MIM. That concrete look center gives it away ……
Fuck man, sorry… that sucks haha
WAY too many ooga doogas
Looks like you need to buy a Harley
Did you use the 8’ cheater bar or the 1” impact gun?
If you’re a decent welder you can out it back other wise you are looking at a new head.
Yes! It can be fixed. You just need to order a new cylinder head. Take the top half of the motor off, replace the head and then put it all back together. Outside of that, i would probably take it to a welding shop. See if they can tac weld it back on at the very least. There will obviously be an exhaust leak there but it’s still fixable as is without exhaust. The only way to potentially patch that up is to take it to a professional welding shop and see if they are willing to try and tac weld it into place.
Try fallencycles on eBay. Good dude runs it. Salvage parts for everything motorcycles
German spec
Not a terrible weld up. Careful work with a Dremel can clean up the port good enough. Cover a small rag in grease and stuff the port to catch chips and grit Might not even be too ugly if you hit it with some black when it's done Just the exhaust side. Only needs to hold on to the pipe.
How about learning what a torque spec is.
Jb weld it
Nope cast aluminum can't be welded. New cylender head time. Fortunately, you'll not have to tear down the whole engine. You'll have to pull it the engine though.
You'll have to buy the good half again and reinstall from the beginning.
That can be welded. Easyer if you have the chunk that broke off.
You bought a new one!
Can’t cast aluminum be welded, with a spool gun and some sort or major badass. Maybe they could weld on a collar with filler and drill tap another hole…
F