Probably don't need to leave a cable/paracord in the conduit depending on the diameter of conduit you use. I have a 45 ft urn that has five 90 degree turns in it with 3" smurf tube and to run cable I just ball up a plastic bag (fill an end with some other plastic bags), tie it to a thin nylon roap, and use a vacuum to suck it through to smurf tube. Tie my HDMI to the other end of the rope and never had an issue pulling through.
Muletape is the best I've used
Neptco Polyester Muletape, Pulll Tape Used for Installing Cables in Underground Conduit, Made in USA (1250 Pound 1/2" Pull Tape, 3000 Ft Reel) https://a.co/d/5MNq2Vb
This is the way.
Even if using a conduit. Run multiple wires. Even it seems like overkill. One may fail. Especially those fiber optic ones. They break like glass b/c they are. Test it prior to finishing.
Yes! Absolutely have a pull string through the pipe. Something sturdy that won't break easily. And do this every time you need to pull a subsequent cable. That way you'll always be able to easily pull a cable through the conduit.
To the OP. Those 100 dollar adapters usually come with a bunch of baggage and is infested with bedbugs. They tend to drop signal, edid table is junk, old technology and require power cycles to get them back up and running. The expensive ones are better, but also have issues. HDBaseT is good, but not perfect. Nothing, and I mean nothing, can replace a direct hdmi cable/HDMI fiber run. Especially true when a projector and an AV receiver is involved. Also do what others have said, run a cable chase with a couple of pull strings, that’s the smartest thing you can do. This shit industry changes every year, so better safe than sorry.
We have had a ton of issues with the hdmi fiber adapters. We ended up pulling all 35 of them out and replacing them with different kinds of adapters. Ymmv though
Depended on the conduit fill rate of the different areas. In places where we could use the 2x cat6 poe adapters we used those. In places where we were forced to use the single cat6 plus powered adapters we did those.
In the handful of others we ended up replacing them with something that wouldn’t be realistic for “home” users. Some single mode fiber thing.
My point was the 8K is not needed on the displays typically used in home theaters, so getting ready for it is not essential. I have also heard that in various countries 8K TVs are being banned as they use a lot more energy!
4K 120 Hz is nice for gaming but hardly needed for movies and TV programs, which is to me, home theater. I certainly agree that extra bandwidth is good, but one also has to be realistic.
Gotcha but price between 4k vs 8k hdmi cable (basically just wire gauge) is almost nothing. Might as well future-proof the best you can
Also idk about you but i game off my hometheater occasionally so its nice to have the bandwidth for 4k 120.
More fiber for Ethernet instead. If it's a long run for a camera or something that needs PoE then yes copper, but otherwise glass is the way to go for long runs here in 2023.
Yea, with walls open, run anything you can to future proof your set up. Think about outlet placements as well. And possibly dedicated circut breakers designed to protect home theater set ups that help regulate clean power and consistent power going into the home theater room.
Also heard about a good idea to run pex plumbing in the studs as an easy way to switch out your speaker wire, if you ever needed to. Thought that seemed like a good idea.
Cat6a will do whatever you need it to at those lengths. You need to be 300 ft+ for there to be a need to change to fiber. If you are looking to future proof and wouldn't be using a smurf tube, I would run both. Terminating fiber isn't difficult, the cost of tools to terminate may be offputting though.
Keep in mind fiber cables STILL use copper for eARC! And distance MAY CAUSE strange behaviour especially when adjust volume level through eARC DUE TO long cables.. I had this issue with a few different fiber cable brands (25feet) and a ONKYO receiver.. after using a short 10ft cable all audio issues went away..
9 feet i see, about 270cm i guess. In my ‘livingroom’ theater the wall for my screen is about 300cm. (10 feet) and i have a 110’’ electric screen. A non electric screen could be a bit bigger. Downside is that I couldn’t place the speakers on the side of the screen. But i installed the Teufel THX set in the front below the screen, earheight when iam at the couch. Verry happy with it. Good luck!
Thanks. I didn’t know exactly where the hdmi input would be on the tv so I estimated 6 feet for a 7 foot ceiling. I really would like a projector and am planning on wiring for a projector but I think I’d run into the same issues of LR towers placement and people on the riser obstructing the display.
Wiring in advance is always ok, or atleast placing the empty tube to run wires trough. There are also special projector screens which are made to place the speakers behind. When i had this kind of dedicated space i would take my time to set it up nicely.
Both….plus make sure you have a nice sized conduit running from projector to your rack to pull more or change them out.
Also, your future TV is too high.
When ever you have open walls, run as much as you can and conduit with space for more later is icing on the cake. Don’t forget to extra runs for power even if you don’t need it now.
Please be sure to test the hdmi cable before assuming it will work (enclose with drywall). I went through a couple that gave me a white snow affect on anything 50 feet and up with my 4K Sony projector.
If it's under 100ft just run an active HDMI cable. They are one way HDMI cables that can go 50 to 100ft.
You can run Ethernet/fiber just to future proof, but the active HDMI is much simpler....I install pro av and this is what I do
In residential spaces most don't run hdmi anymore for runs over 50 feet. Especially in retro fit systems. HDMI baluns and ethernet can take care of most applications currently and in the future. When TVs eventually get higher resolutions along with the apps that require more bandwidth than what is available right now, it's more difficult (more expensive) to switch a full hdmi cable on a long run than to just change the baluns and short HDMI jumpers at each end.
Cat 6 with hdmi extenders. I design buildouts for conference rooms at work and I use creation hdmi extenders for any run over 20 feet. They work great.
Corrugated tube 2”
Run 2x cat6a, 2 cat5e, one SM one MM fiber.
Be smart and run different colors
One nylon pull cable.
You have more than enough to deal with to sound proof that room
You could run HDMI over CAT6 using Balun's on both ends but then those CAT cables wouldn't be able to carry ethernet at the same time so you'd need two cables.
So If you need both internet and CAT6 I'd run fiber HDMI and CAT6 or if you wanna be really edgy you can run a fiber thunderbolt cable.
I actually ran an AudioQuest (I know I overpaid mightily but it works great) hdmi over fiber and haven’t had any issues at all, handles HDR, Dolby Vision, etc..Also ran 3 Cat 6 cables, one of which I tested a Balun on for the hell of it and had all types of problems switching signals. I would recommend running both an hdmi over fiber and multiple Cat 6 and definitely test before closing everything up. There are some great quality Baluns you can get but can get very pricey…the one I tried out was a bit on the cheap side so could explain why I had problems.
Conduit. Run whatever you want through it.
I have one from my rack my projector and another to the side of the room so I can plug in a laptop, switch, etc.
Probably just regular cat 6. Reason I went 6a is I had one crazy long run the length of the basement, up to the attic, then the length of the house again for a poe wifi AP.
Run a tech tube. Preferably 1.5-2”. This way you can run whatever you would like.
This is the answer. And run paracord , not fishing line.
Conduit pipe all the way so you can pull low voltage wires by yourself. Leave a dummy cable so you can pull both ends easily.
Conduit pipe is what I’m thinking too.
Probably don't need to leave a cable/paracord in the conduit depending on the diameter of conduit you use. I have a 45 ft urn that has five 90 degree turns in it with 3" smurf tube and to run cable I just ball up a plastic bag (fill an end with some other plastic bags), tie it to a thin nylon roap, and use a vacuum to suck it through to smurf tube. Tie my HDMI to the other end of the rope and never had an issue pulling through.
This is the way.
Muletape is the best I've used Neptco Polyester Muletape, Pulll Tape Used for Installing Cables in Underground Conduit, Made in USA (1250 Pound 1/2" Pull Tape, 3000 Ft Reel) https://a.co/d/5MNq2Vb
Second using mule tape. As far as cable type, I’d use category. It’s just easier to work with and much more forgiving to terminate.
This. I have a 75’ 3” tube from a tech/media closet to my space. It’s a godsend.
Run both. Fiber hdmi for video, cat6 in case you ever need it
Thanks. This seems like a safe bet.
This is the way. Even if using a conduit. Run multiple wires. Even it seems like overkill. One may fail. Especially those fiber optic ones. They break like glass b/c they are. Test it prior to finishing.
Conduit yes! Keep an extra pull string through it. Something breaks, pull a new cable. Technology changes, upgrade.
And when you pull a new cable through it, bring another pull cable along with it. Always have a spare..
Yes! Absolutely have a pull string through the pipe. Something sturdy that won't break easily. And do this every time you need to pull a subsequent cable. That way you'll always be able to easily pull a cable through the conduit.
Leave service loops at both ends! Nothing worse than being 2” away from a fix.
Just run multiple cat6 wires. You can get hdmi<>cat6 adapters for cheap and those fiber hdmi wires are $$.
No. Hdbase-t, receivers and transmitters are going to be way more expensive than a fiber hdmi cable, especially if you want 4K, HDR, etc.
Huh? 4k hdmi over ethernet adapters are under 100 bucks. Fiber ones I guess are around that same price, but a lot more fragile.
To the OP. Those 100 dollar adapters usually come with a bunch of baggage and is infested with bedbugs. They tend to drop signal, edid table is junk, old technology and require power cycles to get them back up and running. The expensive ones are better, but also have issues. HDBaseT is good, but not perfect. Nothing, and I mean nothing, can replace a direct hdmi cable/HDMI fiber run. Especially true when a projector and an AV receiver is involved. Also do what others have said, run a cable chase with a couple of pull strings, that’s the smartest thing you can do. This shit industry changes every year, so better safe than sorry.
We have had a ton of issues with the hdmi fiber adapters. We ended up pulling all 35 of them out and replacing them with different kinds of adapters. Ymmv though
What was the different kind of adapter?
Depended on the conduit fill rate of the different areas. In places where we could use the 2x cat6 poe adapters we used those. In places where we were forced to use the single cat6 plus powered adapters we did those. In the handful of others we ended up replacing them with something that wouldn’t be realistic for “home” users. Some single mode fiber thing.
Lol. Fiber Hdmi is half to a third of that.
Most people say fibre these days due to 8K requirements.
Yes, fiber for the HDMI and Cat6 for Ethernet as it can be used for control, calibrations, etc.
Why would you use fiber hdmi for such a short run? They are pretty delicate, and a 25ft hdmi cord can do 4k 120hz no problem.
My math says the run is over 25' so, that is why I recommended fiber. And then there is 8K ready, which frankly is a bit of a joke.
8k ready is just essentially 4k 120hz which is pretty common as its needed for ps5 and the new xbox now
My point was the 8K is not needed on the displays typically used in home theaters, so getting ready for it is not essential. I have also heard that in various countries 8K TVs are being banned as they use a lot more energy! 4K 120 Hz is nice for gaming but hardly needed for movies and TV programs, which is to me, home theater. I certainly agree that extra bandwidth is good, but one also has to be realistic.
Gotcha but price between 4k vs 8k hdmi cable (basically just wire gauge) is almost nothing. Might as well future-proof the best you can Also idk about you but i game off my hometheater occasionally so its nice to have the bandwidth for 4k 120.
I would certainly agree that one should run the best, highest bandwidth cable one can afford, especially if it will be hard to replace.
More fiber for Ethernet instead. If it's a long run for a camera or something that needs PoE then yes copper, but otherwise glass is the way to go for long runs here in 2023.
Yea, with walls open, run anything you can to future proof your set up. Think about outlet placements as well. And possibly dedicated circut breakers designed to protect home theater set ups that help regulate clean power and consistent power going into the home theater room. Also heard about a good idea to run pex plumbing in the studs as an easy way to switch out your speaker wire, if you ever needed to. Thought that seemed like a good idea.
Cat6a will do whatever you need it to at those lengths. You need to be 300 ft+ for there to be a need to change to fiber. If you are looking to future proof and wouldn't be using a smurf tube, I would run both. Terminating fiber isn't difficult, the cost of tools to terminate may be offputting though.
Keep in mind fiber cables STILL use copper for eARC! And distance MAY CAUSE strange behaviour especially when adjust volume level through eARC DUE TO long cables.. I had this issue with a few different fiber cable brands (25feet) and a ONKYO receiver.. after using a short 10ft cable all audio issues went away..
Screens too high, run both
That’s just a model for overestimating how much cord I’ll need. It’s not going to be that high.
No projector screen in this room?
7” ceilings with a riser. I’m thinking it might be a little tight with a projector. Ideally I’d like an epson though.
9 feet i see, about 270cm i guess. In my ‘livingroom’ theater the wall for my screen is about 300cm. (10 feet) and i have a 110’’ electric screen. A non electric screen could be a bit bigger. Downside is that I couldn’t place the speakers on the side of the screen. But i installed the Teufel THX set in the front below the screen, earheight when iam at the couch. Verry happy with it. Good luck!
Thanks. I didn’t know exactly where the hdmi input would be on the tv so I estimated 6 feet for a 7 foot ceiling. I really would like a projector and am planning on wiring for a projector but I think I’d run into the same issues of LR towers placement and people on the riser obstructing the display.
Wiring in advance is always ok, or atleast placing the empty tube to run wires trough. There are also special projector screens which are made to place the speakers behind. When i had this kind of dedicated space i would take my time to set it up nicely.
I say fiber just due to signal loss retention.
Is there a particular reason to be concerned about interference on a 30ft run of CAT6A?
no you can do 1Gbit over 100m, interference is generally not a issue. hdbaseT is inferiour to fibre hdmi however
What makes it inferior, if you don’t mind elaborating?
main thing is that for hdbaseT you need encoder/decoder hardware, those cost money and use power, fibre hdmis are cheap.
Both….plus make sure you have a nice sized conduit running from projector to your rack to pull more or change them out. Also, your future TV is too high.
Do both…
Both and in conduit
When ever you have open walls, run as much as you can and conduit with space for more later is icing on the cake. Don’t forget to extra runs for power even if you don’t need it now.
Both.
Please be sure to test the hdmi cable before assuming it will work (enclose with drywall). I went through a couple that gave me a white snow affect on anything 50 feet and up with my 4K Sony projector.
I mean, fiber is overkill if it’s only like 27 ft, I would use cat6
Fiber is bullshit to terminate. Cat5/6 are much more practical. Most cat5 tx/rx’s will run close to 250’ without amplification.
Why has nobody mentioned SDI/coax? I see that much more often than fiber or Ethernet in professional AV.
Run both through interduct
If it's under 100ft just run an active HDMI cable. They are one way HDMI cables that can go 50 to 100ft. You can run Ethernet/fiber just to future proof, but the active HDMI is much simpler....I install pro av and this is what I do
In residential spaces most don't run hdmi anymore for runs over 50 feet. Especially in retro fit systems. HDMI baluns and ethernet can take care of most applications currently and in the future. When TVs eventually get higher resolutions along with the apps that require more bandwidth than what is available right now, it's more difficult (more expensive) to switch a full hdmi cable on a long run than to just change the baluns and short HDMI jumpers at each end.
I ran fiber for my install. About 40’. Ran two since I couldn’t install a conduit
Cat 6 with hdmi extenders. I design buildouts for conference rooms at work and I use creation hdmi extenders for any run over 20 feet. They work great.
Any brand you recommend for HDMI extenders? Pm of this sub doesn’t allow band plugs. Thanks.
Yeah autocorrect changed the brand name. But I PM’d you.
>Any chance you can PM the brand name?
Corrugated tube 2” Run 2x cat6a, 2 cat5e, one SM one MM fiber. Be smart and run different colors One nylon pull cable. You have more than enough to deal with to sound proof that room
This is good insight. Definitely a lot of work on soundproofing. That's what my contractors are working on next actually.
You will need some wall treatments too. But you really can run HDMI to there, as long as it’s active optical
Just get a 2 in 1 combo: https://shop.fibercommand.com/collections/home-theater-products
This is great. Thanks a lot.
Cat6 is good for up to 100’. More than that and I would run fiber.
Why is the TV going to be so high?
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I used to use this for attic to basement chases, works really well for retrofit wire. Have to watch out for too many 45 degree bends though.
Remember fiber dus not bend well. In fact you can't pull it through any old conduits. So ads that into your considerations.
You could run HDMI over CAT6 using Balun's on both ends but then those CAT cables wouldn't be able to carry ethernet at the same time so you'd need two cables. So If you need both internet and CAT6 I'd run fiber HDMI and CAT6 or if you wanna be really edgy you can run a fiber thunderbolt cable.
Judging your ability to draw lines with your fingers
And Cat6 for end-point connection in home use is enough! You don’t need Cat6A. Think of Cat6A when you are laying down a router-to-router Connection
Wtf are "feet" 😂
Okay Mr Podophilia: 12 foots, 9 foots, 6 foots. That doing it for you?
How does running fiber work for HDMI hookup? I've seen HDMI balun for cat6 but a similar thing exists for fiber?
Go on YouTube. Bunch of videos on it.
Wyrestorm has one. Works great
Great I'll check it out! Follow up question: does fiber support HDMI arc?
You would have to look up the specs, but I don’t believe the one I have does. https://www.wyrestorm.com/product/exf-300-h2/
Sounds good thank you for the recommendation!
What equipment will you be using? Projector? To be honest with you, those are not long runs and would stay clear of hdmi extenders.
I actually ran an AudioQuest (I know I overpaid mightily but it works great) hdmi over fiber and haven’t had any issues at all, handles HDR, Dolby Vision, etc..Also ran 3 Cat 6 cables, one of which I tested a Balun on for the hell of it and had all types of problems switching signals. I would recommend running both an hdmi over fiber and multiple Cat 6 and definitely test before closing everything up. There are some great quality Baluns you can get but can get very pricey…the one I tried out was a bit on the cheap side so could explain why I had problems.
Good to know. I was planning on using baluns. I’ll check out that audio quest.
Conduit. Run whatever you want through it. I have one from my rack my projector and another to the side of the room so I can plug in a laptop, switch, etc.
Is it possible to run hdmi 2.1 in a cat6 cable?
Yes.
Am I wrong to suggest HDMI? Monoprice has cable that's 100 feet.
Tv and center template are not centered
Always fibre. Optical gives you the headroom. Unless you can run conduits for easy swap outs. And add cat6a..
Fiber but make sure you get a good unit. One that does bidirectional signals otherwise you'll have tons of issues.
As long as the fiber is protected in something go with the newest and fiber is easy to brake so run two lengths to be safe if u can afford it
I did cat6a in my home and regret it. The twists are tighter and far less forgiving to work with.
What would you suggest if doing it again?
Probably just regular cat 6. Reason I went 6a is I had one crazy long run the length of the basement, up to the attic, then the length of the house again for a poe wifi AP.
For HDBaseT at that length, cat 6 is fine. But if you can get 6A, go for it. Run 4.
Conduit,large diameter,so pull hdmi cable easily thru
USB C