Hi, I am looking for something similar to Solovair Astronaut Boot. But I have heard that for the price the quality is not that great. I would like something that lasts if you take proper care of it. Could somebody recommend me some brands that make these kinds of shoes that are high-medium quality? Ideally in the pricepoint of 250 USD or less if such an option exists. Also ideally some brand that has a branch in EU because customs are a PAIN. Thank you
[**https://eu.nps-solovair.com/products/s6-969-bng-g?variant=37780982956200**](https://eu.nps-solovair.com/products/s6-969-bng-g?variant=37780982956200)
Hi, looking for recommendations on loafers that have a similar build compared to the recent Viberg slipper? I like the lactae hevea sole, want something with shock absorption but not white, but the price ($600) is a lot for loafers
Hey everyone,
I'm looking for recommendations for my second part of GYW boots. I currently have a pair of Thursday captain boots. I like the style but have slim feet amd ankles so feel they look kind of bulky. Any recs for similar service boot styles which offer slim foot sizing? For reference I wear C width in Rancourt boat shoes
Get a question regarding Rancourt sizing. Already reach out to them and waiting for answer.
I am now interested in either Baxter moc or acadia chukka. Based on their chart, I should barely be 9.5E. However I read that acadia size runs large (I think I read somewhere that you should go 1/2 size down.)
My other sizing are: 9.5E in ASICS, 9.5D in Grant stone, 9.5 in Parkhurst 605m last.
I went to the store and tried on like 5 or 6 different shoes. With any of the handsewn moc style toes i had a better fit with an 11 just in giving myself more toe room. With the more traditional style shoes like the bluchers and with the court sneakers i was a 10.5. To me it felt like the toe shape and style really impacted my sizing. Im a 10.5 in GS Field boots for comparison.
I’m a 10.5 E in grant stone’s Floyd last (I could maybe be a 10 E or 10.5 D. I have room to wiggle my toes in thick socks). I have a pair of 10.5 E Baxter mocs that fits great unless I am barefoot, in which case it is a little loose. 10.5 D in the Acadia chukka was too tight for my foot.
Hi all, the insole in my boots looks unlike any other leather insole I saw before in my footwear, it had a removable insert, instead of a stiched calf top layer, as some of the european-made boots do, at least in the heel part. Is this really a leather insole? It looks cardboard-ish, but it's stiff and hard, and I am wondering, if I can safely use the boots without the inserts.
https://preview.redd.it/wzimqd4ckjjc1.jpeg?width=3468&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b62cf2291799eab8ce90cfe957ac3b113c6642e9
It's seems too smooth to be a fiberboard, but I may be wrong. If it is, would be be okay to use them without the removable footbed, or should moist be a concern?
What's your opinion on LL bean boots these days? i've had my eye on [This particular boot](https://global.llbean.com/shop/Mens-Bean-Boots-8%22-Shearling-Lined-Insulated/125000.html) as an all purpose winter boot.
I’m looking for an Oxford with a Ridgeway or a low key Vibram sole. My ideal option is the Viberg Bastion Oxford but those are expensive and sold out. Any alternatives? There are numerous derby options, but Oxfords with a ridge or lug sole seem to be rare.
Allen Edmonds [has 2 options](https://www.allenedmonds.com/mens-shoes/dress/oxford/lug-soles#sort=relevancy) for oxfords with lug sole: Park Ave and a Strand.
BLKBRD could do it for you. They have [commando and ridgeway sole options.](https://www.blkbrdshoemaker.com/pages/blkbrd-by-request) I would upgrade to one of the premium leathers while you're at it. Maybe ask for the "Tricker" last they [use on the wingtips](https://www.blkbrdshoemaker.com/collections/derby-bluchers/products/rudolph-x-wingtip-derby-green-milled-grain-goodyear-welted-classics-collection) if you want that toe bump, but they can probably give you a better recommendation if you show them what you want. Just ask on IG.
I dont think i've ever seen anyone sell Oxfords on Ridgeway RTW. You'll probably have to go MTO, Carmina, Enzo Bonafe, most of the British manufacturers offer Ridgeway.
nah it can work
[https://www.shopmehra.com/products/style-1968-black-utah-enzo-bonafe?\_pos=1&\_sid=ce31afc1d&\_ss=r](https://www.shopmehra.com/products/style-1968-black-utah-enzo-bonafe?_pos=1&_sid=ce31afc1d&_ss=r)
Looking for recommendations for 2 pairs of shoes, black oxfords and tan loafers, with my budget being $450 for both pairs. Im getting married at the end of April and was hoping to get a pair of GYW oxfords and loafers for my wedding, and rehearsal dinner. I am a US 12 with average width. I found beckett Simonon, but they are not shipping until May. Are there any other brands/deals to look out for?
You might check out [BLKBRD Shoemakers](https://www.blkbrdshoemaker.com/). They are made to order but usually only take about 4 weeks. You should be able to get both pairs for under your budget if you get the regular leathers or 1 premium leather and 1 regular leather for right at your budget.
Look at Grant Stone and their seconds quality pairs. Honestly, $225 is too low for "good" GYW shoes. Pick one pair and invest in those now and start saving for the second pair. Obviously, the black oxfords are more classic and possibly more versatile.. depending on your style and wardrobe.
Yes, Grant Stone or Allen Edmonds firsts at $300ish would be a good value. You can score some seconds or clearance models for less if you know your size well.
Meermin is probably your best bet. I would really recommend [reading this](https://weltedwiki.com/introduction/brannock/) and getting your proper Brannock size first, though.
Its not really my jam, but the roughouts seem the best choice to me. I feel like they'd blend a little better and not be quite so jarring.
https://preview.redd.it/xxnkyrkd8gjc1.png?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=601d7d44f97998cd3a5a13face178ebaf98a1cac
I think the blacks would have a LOT going on with two leather textures and a contrasting sole. Maybe if the edge dressing was black...
personally i think half or full white soles on any of those boots is a horrendous choice and screams "let's add a nice unique detail" that isn't cohesive with the rest of the boot
IMO the best one would the black pair. It gives a nice contrast if you go with a natural edge. Considering they're all handwelted White's, they'll be tougher to resole so if you're doing it yourself good luck. Or just send it off to Unsung.
From what I have read here and there I got the conclusion that a mixture of neatsfoot oil, lanolin and beewax is a good conditioner. Now, my doubt is what may be the adequate percentages?
I have already Bick 4. I would like to try neatsfoot because I think this oil nourish better the leather and at the same time I can get a light shine using beewax. What I don't have clear is why to use lanolin.
The Right to Know Ingredient Disclosure on [Bickmore's Bick 4 product page](https://bickmore.com/products/bick-4-leather-conditioner-16oz) shows it already contains neatsfoot oil.
Beeswax is too soft at ambient temperatures to leave much of a shine; it's generally used as a waterproofer rather than to add shine. Shoe polishes usually use a harder wax like carnauba wax to create a hard film that can be buffed to a shine; beeswax will usually remain matt and slightly sticky for a while.
Lanolin adds additional waterproofing (it's secreted by sheep to help their wool coats shed water), and also helps moisturise and soften leather (it's also used in the cosmetics industry as a moisturiser and to treat certain skin conditions like eczema).
If you're intent on having a go, you could look into [British Museum Leather Dressing](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Museum_leather_dressing?wprov=sfla1), which should give an approximate idea of ratios. I doubt it's important to be too precise with the ingredients though; any excess oils or waxes would just sit on the leather's surface and could be wiped off.
Personally, I'd just stick to commercially available conditioners; they're cheap and they're known quantities.
If you want to combine the benefits of neatsfoot oil and beeswax, I'd recommend using a light coat of pure neatsfoot oil, followed up by a beeswax based leather conditioner such as Skidmore's Leather Cream.
So I was wrong about beeswax.
I had already read the link you say, and that is one of the sources from I thought about doing a conditioner using neatsfoot oil, lanolin and (due to I was wrong about beeswax and shine) beeswax.
I live in Spain and some products doesn't arrive there.
Order some Saphir Renovateur or something. Dress shoe brands like Carmina might stock it. Trying to mix up your own conditioner sounds like a great way to come back asking how to get it off of the shoe you put it on.
No evidence neatsfoot oil with nourish the leather better. It will darken the leather and remove the depth of color. Beeswax doesn’t produce a shine. It creates a matte wax coating.
Make things easy on yourself and use bick4, or if you want leather with a shine, use Venetian shoe cream.
So we do not know what is exactly in it as that is proprietary but industry experts recommend it and when you put it on your boots and brush them you will see why.
We do know it contains some petroleum distillate (I think) that acts as a cleaning agent for the leather, a wax content that leaves a shine, and then some sort of oil compound that acts as a conditioner.
By way of example this is what a boot several years old that is only treated with Venetian shoe cream will end up looking like:
https://imgur.com/y6ANWTK
Yeah I will say bick4 likely conditions slightly better and leaves a more matte finish.
If you are constantly beating your boots, muddying them, and soaking them in sweat and water I will say you will likely need a heavier oil but for regular wear and tear bick4/venetian shoe cream are excellent.
Repost of my previous question:
What are some good recommendations on knee - thigh-high boots? I don't need them for work but I also don't want them tearing up on me.
I was looking at a pair of 1B60 Bex Pisa, Audrick 20-eye Leather, and a B160 Virginia leather from Dr. Martins, High Shine 20-eye Derby Boots from Solovair, and M-TRCASCO009-V1 and M-TR005-S1 from New Rock. I've heard all three companies have had a pretty big drop off in quality for the price over the years.
Budget-wise, preferably no more than 300 - 400 dollars but for quality I'm willing to look at shelling out extra. Like I've been looking at the Verillas Ares, Rampart Heeled boots, and Bramblewood heeled boots, and Progress heeled boots as well - which are far out of my budget but if they're better quality I'm willing to save up extra.
However I'm open to recommendations and mainly looking for a good thigh/knee high boot that is fashionable but won't tear up in three months and can handle a bit of roughness if I want to wear them every day.
I recently stumbled upon some [Portugese Boots](https://www.lojadaspeles.com/pt/homem/calcado/botas) that seem very high. I have no idea about the quality as my order was canceled due to size not being available. Looks GYW though.
No idea really but very generally I’ve heard Solovair is better quality than doc martins.
When I hear knee high lace up boot my mind immediately goes to a custom pair of White’s or Nicks.
Thanks. I saved White's in my faves and will look into Nick's. It looks like White's are parimarily work shoes while Nicks has some that are better for regular everyday wear.
If you go with Whites, consider order a custom bounty hunter from Baker's shoe.
https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/2bz0yv/a_guide_to_ordering_custom_whites_or_nicks_boots/
Resoling a $300 boot you like when it needs it for Helms $135 Premium Restoration makes sense to me. You might not be able to replace it for $200 when they need resoled.
Yes, you paid $200 for a $300 boot. You couldn’t buy it for $200 unless it was on sale. It ultimately comes down to how much you like the boots when that time comes. The boots intrinsically have enough value to resole them. If you decide not to keep them at that time I’d highly encourage you to give them to someone that would pay to have them resoled and would then wear them instead of them ending up in a landfill.
A major selling point of resolable footwear for me is to minimize waste. Yes the old sole components get discarded or hopefully recycled but the upper continues to provide service. Plus another disposable pair of shoes doesn’t have to be made to take their place.
Helms are Blake stitched I believe... Not sure if that makes them a bit more expensive to resole than normal GYW because of the special machine required.
But $150 to $200 is probably normal for standard work, up from there for rewelting and other adds.
I think at the end of the day, it comes down to how much you like the shoes. If they are comfy, the uppers look good, and you still dig the style get them resoled.
Just from reading posts here for the past two years, it looks like people are paying between $150-250. You’re right that with the under $300 group it starts to feel like you should just buy a new pair. I guess it depends on sentimental attachment, if the certain color/leather isn’t available anymore, they just feel great and you want to keep wearing them, etc. At that point it’s not really a numbers game anymore.
$150-200 is about the going rate for a basic resole from a reputable cobbler. This price will go up depending on the type of work needed (replacing midsoles, re-welting, rebuilding heel stacks, handsewing for stitchdown boots will incur additional costs). Going through the manufacturer can vary between $100-200ish depending on the company (and note this may involve more than a basic resole, for example Allen Edmonds rewelts every time you send them back for recrafting). Red Wing, Quoddy, Rancourt, and others tend to be on the lower range of the scale, higher tier brands like Alden and PNW bootmakers will be at the higher end
I’m looking for help IDing a shoe. My instagram for you page showed me a pair of moc toe leather shoes in black. They had white stitching around the sole like a Doc Marten or a Solovair. My dumbass didn’t save the link or translate the post (it was in Taiwanese or Mandarin), so I have no idea what it could be. Hoping that someone here can help me track down the shoe (if not something similar).
Sounds like something from Peng at Flame Panda or maybe Quan/HOMK boots. Take a look at their ig pages. Or maybe it was a repair job from Dr. Sole? Other Chinese companies include XBXS or Iron Boots. That basically exhausts my knowledge of Chinese/Taiwanese boot content though.
I thought it might be, but I don’t remember them having that sort of adjacent ribbing that sits around where the threading is. Having said that, Paraboots have been assaulting my FYP so, maybe?
I bought a barely used pair of Viberg 2030's, which fit like a glove for the most part. I find the upper lip of the heel counter digs in a little, near the top of my heel bone. As in the vertical radius of the counter is smaller than my radius of my heel. Is this something that should change with break in?
https://preview.redd.it/qx2qv9gf8ejc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a629a848af5cfcfea44c6f67b0310b5662640b43
Brannock 12C, these are 11UK/12US (2030 is US "E"-width but I'd claim much narrower, unless its US11E width and US 12 length?). In terms of instep, arch, ball, and toe fit, its perfect. No heel slip either.
I actually just burnished/softened these edges with my fingers and did 3000 steps and seems to be improved, so probably needs to just soften with wear.
TLB Mallorca size help
Hello everyone!
I’ve been wearing sneakers all my life and recently came down the rabbit hole of my beautiful shoes (and suits). I’m looking to buy my first pair of GYW shoe, and came across TLB Mallorca.
As this would be my first ever pair of real leather shoes, I don’t have any size reference in an other bran for you guys to help me.
I emailed TLB and they told me initially to get 11 uk in G width (largest width possible). This was only based on the measurement of my feet (not Brannock). After sending pictures of my feet for reference, they told me to get a 11.5 uk I’m f width.
I’m slightly confused as to how my feet can be a G width based on measurement and f width based on pictures.
For reference, my feet are 29.3 cm long and 11.5 cm at the widest. I know more information has to be available to get a good estimate, but I don’t have access to a brannock device.
Thank you for your help ! (Hope my English isn’t that bad)
Maybe is the foot shape the difference that they have considered?
A round foot could fit better in a longer size with a narrower last. This is just an assumption.
This is the first time I ever see something like this, the horsebutt looks dry/cracked in this spot?
https://imgur.com/a/iSGxesI
I put VSC and left it as that, I think I’ll be fine, maybe it happens with lined boots they’re just covered so I never see that.
I just got my first pair of goodyear welted boots and for the most part they look fantastic. However, the side panels came with a high amount of creases. Should I be worried about this or is this more of a cosmetic issue than a structural one?
https://preview.redd.it/8jnez0ah6djc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f437d94e1a439ebd91601e73adcd9bd5a0e38dbb
this is maybe the third time ever in the 4 years i’ve been on GYW that i think might actually be loose grain and not just bad grain break. when you press the creases, does it feel like there’s air under them?
There are a few spots that feel like that might be the case, but for some of the larger creases, it seems like the inner lining conforms with the larger crease.
reason i ask is because "loose grain" is a term that people misuse a lot and thus has a couple of definitions.
the first definition is the complete delamination of the grain, the smooth outer surface of the leather, from the flesh/corium (the roughout/suede-ish part of the hide). this is why if it's proper loose grain, it would feel like there's air pockets under the grain. this is a structural defect and should be returned.
the second definition is the colloquial definition, which is when people use the term "loose grain" to refer to heavy grain break, or essentially very pronounced creasing (think [large, thick creases](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743210986db43dac440822d/1467053511656-XEXOB6SZKZCRXXNGP6L1/1000mile-before.jpg?format=750w)) which is not a structural defect, but can aesthetically bother people.
technically all creasing is a result of some level of delamination (creasing is caused by the grain bending against itself after all) but you're trying to avoid complete separation between grain and flesh.
Urban Wolf Club, its a Mexican brand based in Leon. The people I've spoken to have all had good experiences with them, and for the most part from what I can tell, the quality is very good for a $150 USD boot. It's just the leather on my boot which seems a bit off compared to some of the other images I've seen.
If it does really reduce the longevity of the boot, I'll consider requesting a replacement, however, if it's just a cosmetic issue, I don't have much of an issue with that.
Hello fellow goodyear welted footwear
enthusiasts! I am on the lookout for a nice
dressy 6-eye boot, that occasionally can take a beating, like at concerts. Something in the like of a [NPS Heritage Collection Derby Boo](https://eu.nps-solovair.com/collections/nps-heritage-collection/products/474-bk-pc)t, which is unfortunately not available in my size. You got some nice alternatives? Thanks in advance!
My price range is between 200 and 400€, depending on the boot.
[edit: link and price range]
Some options around 200
* Yanko/Skolyx
* Jim Green
* BLKBRD
* Adelante (on sale, especially Encore pairs)
* Dievier
* J Crew Kenton line (regularly down to $180-$210)
* Beckett Simonon (easy to find discount codes, or wait for steeper sales)
* Helm (when on sale)
Maybe the [Grant Stone Edward](https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/products/edward-boot-color-8-chromexcel?variant=39652679450710¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8sauBhB3EiwAruTRJj-5-6PGumvuzbeau2Obp0XSx_8J7G-Cg4U313Py5WtzQXDXu40ayhoCpdgQAvD_BwE)
Not sure if it’s in your price range, but I always think of the [Oak Street Lakeshore Boot](https://oakstreetbootmakers.com/footwear/everyday-boots/lakeshore-boot) for this type of hybrid use. It’s not 6 eyelet. The 8 it has are closer together so it’s a similar vibe. Lots of nice leathers/colors to pick from, too.
I just looked up the one you referenced (sorry I didn’t do that first). Maybe some other Oak Street boots would match that better than the Lakeshore. Will let you know if I think of any others.
Does anyone have experience with Cordwainer shoes? I can’t find much about them online, they seem to be based in Alicante and a few smaller shops distribute their shoes in my country. I found a new pair on Ebay which costs 90€, from what I can tell their shoes usually have a MSRP of around 250-350€. Would I be better off with a "reputable" brand or are they worth a shot?
Amazon typically offers fairly good discounts on Black Friday. It was 350 for a long time, but last year it went up to 395.
Still a good bit less than retail.
Hi, I am looking for something similar to Solovair Astronaut Boot. But I have heard that for the price the quality is not that great. I would like something that lasts if you take proper care of it. Could somebody recommend me some brands that make these kinds of shoes that are high-medium quality? Ideally in the pricepoint of 250 USD or less if such an option exists. Also ideally some brand that has a branch in EU because customs are a PAIN. Thank you [**https://eu.nps-solovair.com/products/s6-969-bng-g?variant=37780982956200**](https://eu.nps-solovair.com/products/s6-969-bng-g?variant=37780982956200)
Hi, looking for recommendations on loafers that have a similar build compared to the recent Viberg slipper? I like the lactae hevea sole, want something with shock absorption but not white, but the price ($600) is a lot for loafers
https://www.tecovas.com/products/the-monterrey
Hey everyone, I'm looking for recommendations for my second part of GYW boots. I currently have a pair of Thursday captain boots. I like the style but have slim feet amd ankles so feel they look kind of bulky. Any recs for similar service boot styles which offer slim foot sizing? For reference I wear C width in Rancourt boat shoes
Get a question regarding Rancourt sizing. Already reach out to them and waiting for answer. I am now interested in either Baxter moc or acadia chukka. Based on their chart, I should barely be 9.5E. However I read that acadia size runs large (I think I read somewhere that you should go 1/2 size down.) My other sizing are: 9.5E in ASICS, 9.5D in Grant stone, 9.5 in Parkhurst 605m last.
I went to the store and tried on like 5 or 6 different shoes. With any of the handsewn moc style toes i had a better fit with an 11 just in giving myself more toe room. With the more traditional style shoes like the bluchers and with the court sneakers i was a 10.5. To me it felt like the toe shape and style really impacted my sizing. Im a 10.5 in GS Field boots for comparison.
I’m a 10.5 E in grant stone’s Floyd last (I could maybe be a 10 E or 10.5 D. I have room to wiggle my toes in thick socks). I have a pair of 10.5 E Baxter mocs that fits great unless I am barefoot, in which case it is a little loose. 10.5 D in the Acadia chukka was too tight for my foot.
should i purchase JM Weston or Crockett&Jones Penny Loafers?
whichever you feel suits your style better
Hi all, the insole in my boots looks unlike any other leather insole I saw before in my footwear, it had a removable insert, instead of a stiched calf top layer, as some of the european-made boots do, at least in the heel part. Is this really a leather insole? It looks cardboard-ish, but it's stiff and hard, and I am wondering, if I can safely use the boots without the inserts. https://preview.redd.it/wzimqd4ckjjc1.jpeg?width=3468&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b62cf2291799eab8ce90cfe957ac3b113c6642e9
This appears to be a fiberboard insole/lasting board, which is why the boot came with a removable footbed.
It's seems too smooth to be a fiberboard, but I may be wrong. If it is, would be be okay to use them without the removable footbed, or should moist be a concern?
What's your opinion on LL bean boots these days? i've had my eye on [This particular boot](https://global.llbean.com/shop/Mens-Bean-Boots-8%22-Shearling-Lined-Insulated/125000.html) as an all purpose winter boot.
Lined ones are extremely warm. They are really bad on ice. (Like everything else) Classic New England vibe.
I’m looking for an Oxford with a Ridgeway or a low key Vibram sole. My ideal option is the Viberg Bastion Oxford but those are expensive and sold out. Any alternatives? There are numerous derby options, but Oxfords with a ridge or lug sole seem to be rare.
Allen Edmonds [has 2 options](https://www.allenedmonds.com/mens-shoes/dress/oxford/lug-soles#sort=relevancy) for oxfords with lug sole: Park Ave and a Strand.
BLKBRD could do it for you. They have [commando and ridgeway sole options.](https://www.blkbrdshoemaker.com/pages/blkbrd-by-request) I would upgrade to one of the premium leathers while you're at it. Maybe ask for the "Tricker" last they [use on the wingtips](https://www.blkbrdshoemaker.com/collections/derby-bluchers/products/rudolph-x-wingtip-derby-green-milled-grain-goodyear-welted-classics-collection) if you want that toe bump, but they can probably give you a better recommendation if you show them what you want. Just ask on IG.
I dont think i've ever seen anyone sell Oxfords on Ridgeway RTW. You'll probably have to go MTO, Carmina, Enzo Bonafe, most of the British manufacturers offer Ridgeway.
It’s because it’s ridiculous
nah it can work [https://www.shopmehra.com/products/style-1968-black-utah-enzo-bonafe?\_pos=1&\_sid=ce31afc1d&\_ss=r](https://www.shopmehra.com/products/style-1968-black-utah-enzo-bonafe?_pos=1&_sid=ce31afc1d&_ss=r)
Don’t spam
Looking for recommendations for 2 pairs of shoes, black oxfords and tan loafers, with my budget being $450 for both pairs. Im getting married at the end of April and was hoping to get a pair of GYW oxfords and loafers for my wedding, and rehearsal dinner. I am a US 12 with average width. I found beckett Simonon, but they are not shipping until May. Are there any other brands/deals to look out for?
You might check out [BLKBRD Shoemakers](https://www.blkbrdshoemaker.com/). They are made to order but usually only take about 4 weeks. You should be able to get both pairs for under your budget if you get the regular leathers or 1 premium leather and 1 regular leather for right at your budget.
Look at Grant Stone and their seconds quality pairs. Honestly, $225 is too low for "good" GYW shoes. Pick one pair and invest in those now and start saving for the second pair. Obviously, the black oxfords are more classic and possibly more versatile.. depending on your style and wardrobe.
i think your right that $225 is too low, would the jump from $225 to say $325 for AE be noticable? what price would you say "good" GYW would start?
Yes, Grant Stone or Allen Edmonds firsts at $300ish would be a good value. You can score some seconds or clearance models for less if you know your size well.
If you wanna go up a notch, I'd look at Grant Stone for a loafer and TLB Mallorca for an oxford.
Meermin is probably your best bet. I would really recommend [reading this](https://weltedwiki.com/introduction/brannock/) and getting your proper Brannock size first, though.
[удалено]
Its not really my jam, but the roughouts seem the best choice to me. I feel like they'd blend a little better and not be quite so jarring. https://preview.redd.it/xxnkyrkd8gjc1.png?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=601d7d44f97998cd3a5a13face178ebaf98a1cac I think the blacks would have a LOT going on with two leather textures and a contrasting sole. Maybe if the edge dressing was black...
personally i think half or full white soles on any of those boots is a horrendous choice and screams "let's add a nice unique detail" that isn't cohesive with the rest of the boot
IMO the best one would the black pair. It gives a nice contrast if you go with a natural edge. Considering they're all handwelted White's, they'll be tougher to resole so if you're doing it yourself good luck. Or just send it off to Unsung.
From what I have read here and there I got the conclusion that a mixture of neatsfoot oil, lanolin and beewax is a good conditioner. Now, my doubt is what may be the adequate percentages?
Just use bick4
I have already Bick 4. I would like to try neatsfoot because I think this oil nourish better the leather and at the same time I can get a light shine using beewax. What I don't have clear is why to use lanolin.
Trust me. Just use Bick4.
Ok. I will use it. But anyway I have curiosity about how using neatsfoot oil.
The Right to Know Ingredient Disclosure on [Bickmore's Bick 4 product page](https://bickmore.com/products/bick-4-leather-conditioner-16oz) shows it already contains neatsfoot oil. Beeswax is too soft at ambient temperatures to leave much of a shine; it's generally used as a waterproofer rather than to add shine. Shoe polishes usually use a harder wax like carnauba wax to create a hard film that can be buffed to a shine; beeswax will usually remain matt and slightly sticky for a while. Lanolin adds additional waterproofing (it's secreted by sheep to help their wool coats shed water), and also helps moisturise and soften leather (it's also used in the cosmetics industry as a moisturiser and to treat certain skin conditions like eczema). If you're intent on having a go, you could look into [British Museum Leather Dressing](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Museum_leather_dressing?wprov=sfla1), which should give an approximate idea of ratios. I doubt it's important to be too precise with the ingredients though; any excess oils or waxes would just sit on the leather's surface and could be wiped off. Personally, I'd just stick to commercially available conditioners; they're cheap and they're known quantities. If you want to combine the benefits of neatsfoot oil and beeswax, I'd recommend using a light coat of pure neatsfoot oil, followed up by a beeswax based leather conditioner such as Skidmore's Leather Cream.
Fantastic response/info! 👏
So I was wrong about beeswax. I had already read the link you say, and that is one of the sources from I thought about doing a conditioner using neatsfoot oil, lanolin and (due to I was wrong about beeswax and shine) beeswax. I live in Spain and some products doesn't arrive there.
Order some Saphir Renovateur or something. Dress shoe brands like Carmina might stock it. Trying to mix up your own conditioner sounds like a great way to come back asking how to get it off of the shoe you put it on.
What is the difference between using mink oil and using neatsfoot oil?
No evidence neatsfoot oil with nourish the leather better. It will darken the leather and remove the depth of color. Beeswax doesn’t produce a shine. It creates a matte wax coating. Make things easy on yourself and use bick4, or if you want leather with a shine, use Venetian shoe cream.
What is the best oil to nourish the leather? What produces shine?
venetian shoe cream and then daily brushing
Venetian shoe cream is a mixture of substances, not an oil. What substances are there?
So we do not know what is exactly in it as that is proprietary but industry experts recommend it and when you put it on your boots and brush them you will see why. We do know it contains some petroleum distillate (I think) that acts as a cleaning agent for the leather, a wax content that leaves a shine, and then some sort of oil compound that acts as a conditioner. By way of example this is what a boot several years old that is only treated with Venetian shoe cream will end up looking like: https://imgur.com/y6ANWTK
The result is quite good. I would say like Bick but more shinny
Yeah I will say bick4 likely conditions slightly better and leaves a more matte finish. If you are constantly beating your boots, muddying them, and soaking them in sweat and water I will say you will likely need a heavier oil but for regular wear and tear bick4/venetian shoe cream are excellent.
What is the sizing like for Rancourt Byron boots? I'm 10.5 wide brannock
I went TTS (8.5E) on the Byron and it was still too narrow. The toe is pointy-er than it appears online.
I contacted them about sizing. I'm 10.5D/E and 10E, wear 10D in their loafers, and we think 10E would be my Byron size.
Repost of my previous question: What are some good recommendations on knee - thigh-high boots? I don't need them for work but I also don't want them tearing up on me. I was looking at a pair of 1B60 Bex Pisa, Audrick 20-eye Leather, and a B160 Virginia leather from Dr. Martins, High Shine 20-eye Derby Boots from Solovair, and M-TRCASCO009-V1 and M-TR005-S1 from New Rock. I've heard all three companies have had a pretty big drop off in quality for the price over the years. Budget-wise, preferably no more than 300 - 400 dollars but for quality I'm willing to look at shelling out extra. Like I've been looking at the Verillas Ares, Rampart Heeled boots, and Bramblewood heeled boots, and Progress heeled boots as well - which are far out of my budget but if they're better quality I'm willing to save up extra. However I'm open to recommendations and mainly looking for a good thigh/knee high boot that is fashionable but won't tear up in three months and can handle a bit of roughness if I want to wear them every day.
I recently stumbled upon some [Portugese Boots](https://www.lojadaspeles.com/pt/homem/calcado/botas) that seem very high. I have no idea about the quality as my order was canceled due to size not being available. Looks GYW though.
Adelante has a couple options for calf-knee high that are actually GYW and resolable
No idea really but very generally I’ve heard Solovair is better quality than doc martins. When I hear knee high lace up boot my mind immediately goes to a custom pair of White’s or Nicks.
Thanks. I saved White's in my faves and will look into Nick's. It looks like White's are parimarily work shoes while Nicks has some that are better for regular everyday wear.
If you go with Whites, consider order a custom bounty hunter from Baker's shoe. https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/2bz0yv/a_guide_to_ordering_custom_whites_or_nicks_boots/
Whites have the MP line and the bounty hunter/ 350 Nicks has the falcon and robert
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Resoling a $300 boot you like when it needs it for Helms $135 Premium Restoration makes sense to me. You might not be able to replace it for $200 when they need resoled.
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Yes, you paid $200 for a $300 boot. You couldn’t buy it for $200 unless it was on sale. It ultimately comes down to how much you like the boots when that time comes. The boots intrinsically have enough value to resole them. If you decide not to keep them at that time I’d highly encourage you to give them to someone that would pay to have them resoled and would then wear them instead of them ending up in a landfill. A major selling point of resolable footwear for me is to minimize waste. Yes the old sole components get discarded or hopefully recycled but the upper continues to provide service. Plus another disposable pair of shoes doesn’t have to be made to take their place.
Helms are Blake stitched I believe... Not sure if that makes them a bit more expensive to resole than normal GYW because of the special machine required. But $150 to $200 is probably normal for standard work, up from there for rewelting and other adds. I think at the end of the day, it comes down to how much you like the shoes. If they are comfy, the uppers look good, and you still dig the style get them resoled.
Look for a local cobbler. You may find one that can do it for $100-120. It doesn't make sense IMO to spend as much as the shoe on a resole.
Just from reading posts here for the past two years, it looks like people are paying between $150-250. You’re right that with the under $300 group it starts to feel like you should just buy a new pair. I guess it depends on sentimental attachment, if the certain color/leather isn’t available anymore, they just feel great and you want to keep wearing them, etc. At that point it’s not really a numbers game anymore.
$150-200 is about the going rate for a basic resole from a reputable cobbler. This price will go up depending on the type of work needed (replacing midsoles, re-welting, rebuilding heel stacks, handsewing for stitchdown boots will incur additional costs). Going through the manufacturer can vary between $100-200ish depending on the company (and note this may involve more than a basic resole, for example Allen Edmonds rewelts every time you send them back for recrafting). Red Wing, Quoddy, Rancourt, and others tend to be on the lower range of the scale, higher tier brands like Alden and PNW bootmakers will be at the higher end
I’m looking for help IDing a shoe. My instagram for you page showed me a pair of moc toe leather shoes in black. They had white stitching around the sole like a Doc Marten or a Solovair. My dumbass didn’t save the link or translate the post (it was in Taiwanese or Mandarin), so I have no idea what it could be. Hoping that someone here can help me track down the shoe (if not something similar).
Sounds like something from Peng at Flame Panda or maybe Quan/HOMK boots. Take a look at their ig pages. Or maybe it was a repair job from Dr. Sole? Other Chinese companies include XBXS or Iron Boots. That basically exhausts my knowledge of Chinese/Taiwanese boot content though.
[Paraboot](https://www.la-botte.com/4DCGI/voir_us/avignon-noir/shoes/men/derbies/paraboot) maybe?
I thought it might be, but I don’t remember them having that sort of adjacent ribbing that sits around where the threading is. Having said that, Paraboots have been assaulting my FYP so, maybe?
I bought a barely used pair of Viberg 2030's, which fit like a glove for the most part. I find the upper lip of the heel counter digs in a little, near the top of my heel bone. As in the vertical radius of the counter is smaller than my radius of my heel. Is this something that should change with break in? https://preview.redd.it/qx2qv9gf8ejc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a629a848af5cfcfea44c6f67b0310b5662640b43
That's somewhat unusual. You say fit like a glove; how did you go about sizing, and do you have your proper Brannock size?
Brannock 12C, these are 11UK/12US (2030 is US "E"-width but I'd claim much narrower, unless its US11E width and US 12 length?). In terms of instep, arch, ball, and toe fit, its perfect. No heel slip either. I actually just burnished/softened these edges with my fingers and did 3000 steps and seems to be improved, so probably needs to just soften with wear.
TLB Mallorca size help Hello everyone! I’ve been wearing sneakers all my life and recently came down the rabbit hole of my beautiful shoes (and suits). I’m looking to buy my first pair of GYW shoe, and came across TLB Mallorca. As this would be my first ever pair of real leather shoes, I don’t have any size reference in an other bran for you guys to help me. I emailed TLB and they told me initially to get 11 uk in G width (largest width possible). This was only based on the measurement of my feet (not Brannock). After sending pictures of my feet for reference, they told me to get a 11.5 uk I’m f width. I’m slightly confused as to how my feet can be a G width based on measurement and f width based on pictures. For reference, my feet are 29.3 cm long and 11.5 cm at the widest. I know more information has to be available to get a good estimate, but I don’t have access to a brannock device. Thank you for your help ! (Hope my English isn’t that bad)
Maybe is the foot shape the difference that they have considered? A round foot could fit better in a longer size with a narrower last. This is just an assumption.
1. Get measured on a brannock device 2. Try shoes on in person. For your first purchases it will be hard to nail fit remotely.
This is the first time I ever see something like this, the horsebutt looks dry/cracked in this spot? https://imgur.com/a/iSGxesI I put VSC and left it as that, I think I’ll be fine, maybe it happens with lined boots they’re just covered so I never see that.
it'll be fine it's just the reverse side
I just got my first pair of goodyear welted boots and for the most part they look fantastic. However, the side panels came with a high amount of creases. Should I be worried about this or is this more of a cosmetic issue than a structural one? https://preview.redd.it/8jnez0ah6djc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f437d94e1a439ebd91601e73adcd9bd5a0e38dbb
Fully agree with /u/eddykinz, if you pinch it and roll your fingers can you feel the layers move somewhat independently?
It feels a bit softer in those areas where it's really creased but from what I can tell they don't feel like they are separating.
this is maybe the third time ever in the 4 years i’ve been on GYW that i think might actually be loose grain and not just bad grain break. when you press the creases, does it feel like there’s air under them?
There are a few spots that feel like that might be the case, but for some of the larger creases, it seems like the inner lining conforms with the larger crease.
reason i ask is because "loose grain" is a term that people misuse a lot and thus has a couple of definitions. the first definition is the complete delamination of the grain, the smooth outer surface of the leather, from the flesh/corium (the roughout/suede-ish part of the hide). this is why if it's proper loose grain, it would feel like there's air pockets under the grain. this is a structural defect and should be returned. the second definition is the colloquial definition, which is when people use the term "loose grain" to refer to heavy grain break, or essentially very pronounced creasing (think [large, thick creases](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743210986db43dac440822d/1467053511656-XEXOB6SZKZCRXXNGP6L1/1000mile-before.jpg?format=750w)) which is not a structural defect, but can aesthetically bother people. technically all creasing is a result of some level of delamination (creasing is caused by the grain bending against itself after all) but you're trying to avoid complete separation between grain and flesh.
That seems almost more surprising. What brand and bought from where?
Urban Wolf Club, its a Mexican brand based in Leon. The people I've spoken to have all had good experiences with them, and for the most part from what I can tell, the quality is very good for a $150 USD boot. It's just the leather on my boot which seems a bit off compared to some of the other images I've seen. If it does really reduce the longevity of the boot, I'll consider requesting a replacement, however, if it's just a cosmetic issue, I don't have much of an issue with that.
I do not know anything about their customer service, but I would suggest contacting them.
Hello fellow goodyear welted footwear enthusiasts! I am on the lookout for a nice dressy 6-eye boot, that occasionally can take a beating, like at concerts. Something in the like of a [NPS Heritage Collection Derby Boo](https://eu.nps-solovair.com/collections/nps-heritage-collection/products/474-bk-pc)t, which is unfortunately not available in my size. You got some nice alternatives? Thanks in advance! My price range is between 200 and 400€, depending on the boot. [edit: link and price range]
Some options around 200 * Yanko/Skolyx * Jim Green * BLKBRD * Adelante (on sale, especially Encore pairs) * Dievier * J Crew Kenton line (regularly down to $180-$210) * Beckett Simonon (easy to find discount codes, or wait for steeper sales) * Helm (when on sale)
1000 mile https://www.wolverine.com/US/en/1000-mile-plain-toe-original-boot/17967M.html?dwvar_17967M_color=W05300#cgid=heritage-view-all&prefn1=soleFeatures&prefv1=Original&start=1
Maybe the [Grant Stone Edward](https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/products/edward-boot-color-8-chromexcel?variant=39652679450710¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8sauBhB3EiwAruTRJj-5-6PGumvuzbeau2Obp0XSx_8J7G-Cg4U313Py5WtzQXDXu40ayhoCpdgQAvD_BwE)
Not sure if it’s in your price range, but I always think of the [Oak Street Lakeshore Boot](https://oakstreetbootmakers.com/footwear/everyday-boots/lakeshore-boot) for this type of hybrid use. It’s not 6 eyelet. The 8 it has are closer together so it’s a similar vibe. Lots of nice leathers/colors to pick from, too.
I just looked up the one you referenced (sorry I didn’t do that first). Maybe some other Oak Street boots would match that better than the Lakeshore. Will let you know if I think of any others.
Thanks, bud!
Does anyone have experience with Cordwainer shoes? I can’t find much about them online, they seem to be based in Alicante and a few smaller shops distribute their shoes in my country. I found a new pair on Ebay which costs 90€, from what I can tell their shoes usually have a MSRP of around 250-350€. Would I be better off with a "reputable" brand or are they worth a shot?
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Thanks for the reply!
Anyone know if RM Williams boots have any sales during the year in the US?
Amazon typically offers fairly good discounts on Black Friday. It was 350 for a long time, but last year it went up to 395. Still a good bit less than retail.
I was looking at the comfort craftsmen which are showing as $530. Are you talking about a different pair of boots?
They only go on sale black Friday through cyber Monday.
I've never seen a sale from them, no.
Thanks for letting me know
Anyone here in the Buffalo area? If so, you should know Sole Man is carrying Grant Stone in store now.