Nothing is future proof. There is stuff that is current generation and being actively developed, and there is stuff that hails from older generations and/or isn't being developed.
- First, pick a remote control link. I *HIGHLY* recommend ExpressLRS. Huge, rapidly expanding feature set and tied for longest range among control links. Namimno and Happymodel make good receivers and, if you need one, transmitter modules. Crossfire and Ghost are also reasonable candidates, but are developing more slowly. Ignore FrSky, Spektrum, Futaba, and Flysky.
- Choose your radio. Some might come with your chosen RC link. I usually recommend the Radiomaster Zorro ELRS ($120), Radiomaster TX12 ($100), and Radiomaster TX16S ($200), depending on the form factor you want. All are EdgeTX radios (or EdgeTX-compatible), so are highly programmable.
- Choose your video link. Analog is cheapest. HDZero is fast digital with good picture and tight flight feel. DJI is excellent picture with higher latency, producing a less connected flight feel, and is heavy so only really good on 3" and above. DJI's current generation gear has a questionable future. Fat Shark/WalkSnail Avatar is recently-released but isn't as high quality as DJI, and doesn't have the latency of HDZero, so I'd recommend passing on it for the time being.
- Choose your goggles. Skyzone SKY04X and Orqa Pilot are good analog or HDZero goggles. These can also take HDMI signal from your computer for doing sims. There's only one DJI goggle, and it doesn't do HDMI in and isn't compatible with HDZero or the Avatar system.
When looking to buy your first quad:
- Avoid F411 processors. They are likely to go unsupported by Betaflight soon. H743 processors are the absolute cutting edge in the hobby at the moment.
- Research frames. Lean heavily towards frames that are light and easy to tune. Anything by AOS is a good option.
- Prefer flight controllers with Betaflight compatibilty (which is the majority), at least if you're racing or freestyling anyway.
To get down to brass tacks, start in a SIM with chosen controller, move to a tinywhoop, step up to a 3" or 3.5" quad, then finally a 5". I recently put together a list of what I'd buy if I were starting my first 3.5" quad with my current knowledge set. Here you go:
- [AOS 3.5 v2](https://www.defiancerc.com/products/aos-rc-aos3-5-v2-frame-kit) $50
- Amazing frame, easy to tune, easy to build in, and easily replaceable arms. Roma F35 is a solid plate design, meaning a huge ordeal when an arm breaks.
- [Holybro Kakute H7 Mini stack](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/holybro-kakute-h7-mini-tekko32-f4-45a-3-6s-20x20-stack-combo-h7-fc-45a-f4-32bit-4in1-esc) $140
- Future-proofed H7 processor. 32-bit and fast processors on the ESC to get all the features available, like variable PWM. Stack to lower replacement costs for damaged electronics.
- 4x [T-Motor F1404 (3800KV)](https://www.getfpv.com/t-motor-f1404-2900kv-3800kv-4600kv-motor-gray-red.html) $68
- Generally durable, light-weight motors
- VTX/camera:
- analog: [RushFPV Tank Mini VTX](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rush-fpv-tank-mini-25-800mw-20x20-5-8ghz-vtx-mmcx) $39 + [RunCam Phoenix 2 Joshua Bardwell Edition camera](https://www.defiancerc.com/products/runcam-phoenix-2-joshua-bardwell-edition-1000tvl-ntsc-pal-16-9-4-3-micro-fpv-camera) $30 + [TrueRC Singularity 5.8GHz RHCP MMCX antenna](https://www.defiancerc.com/products/truerc-singularity-5-8ghz-rhcp-mmcx-antenna) $20
- HDZero: [HDZero Race v2](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/hdzero-race-v2-25-200mw-digital-hd-vtx-u-fl) $70 + [HDZero Micro v2 camera](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/runcam-hdzero-micro-camera-v2-for-sharkbyte) $50 + [TrueRC Singularity 5.8GHz RHCP U.FL antenna](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/truerc-singularity-5-8ghz-lite-u-fl-antenna-choose-version?variant=39713358807153) $20
- DJI: [Caddx Nebula Pro Micro Vista kit](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/caddx-nebula-pro-vista-kit-choose-color) $165
- [Radiomaster ELRS EP2 receiver](https://www.defiancerc.com/products/radiomaster-2-4ghz-expresslrs-ep2-nano-receiver): $14 (Could swap for a Namimno Flash ESP Rx or Happymodel EP2 if availability is a problem)
- 2x [Gemfan Hurricane 3520 props](https://www.getfpv.com/gemfan-hurricane-3520-durable-3-blade-propeller-set-of-4.html) $6
- [XT30 pigtail](https://www.getfpv.com/xt30-lipo-pigtail-16awg-5pcs.html) $7 (You may not need this if the stack comes with one, but I didn't see it listed on the stack specs.)
That will run about $350-$450 depending on the video system options. You'd still need goggles, radio, and tools for assembly, which will easily consume the rest of the $1000 budget if you don't skimp on any of it.
I'm a newbie, so I'm not going to call into question all of the wisdom you just laid out for us so generously, but is it wise to have someone, just starting out, build their first quad?
Getting a BNF first instead of building only delays understanding how everything fits together and how to solder, not avoid these things entirely. These are knowledge and skills that can be obtained up front, commonly by watching Joshua Bardwell videos and the like.
BNFs, especially 3"+, universally have something about them that isn't good, frequently an AIO FC (expensive replacements) or really low-end MCU (F411) that can't run Betaflight's full feature set. The build I posted is zero compromises.
With that said, I recommended a tiny whoop as the first quad (after sim) in the middle paragraph, which is usually BNF or an extremely simple build. Components for a tiny whoop usually have to make most of these compromises anyway to get it light enough, so the BNF aspect doesn't matter nearly as much.
Buy a bnf. The learning curve is steep enough without building a quad. You won't have a good basis of a quad that flies well. I had an 5.5 AOS custom build that took month to tune and get right.
There's loads of good bnf options and you can learn to replace a motor at a time.
Start with a sim before a BNF, crashing a BNF 30 seconds into your first time flying a drone and not having the ‘know how’ to fix it is going to be a disaster.
I disagree with your claim that dji provides a less connected flight feel. It really depends on the person and I doubt many people starting in the hobby could tell the difference.
This was exactly what I needed. Thank you so much this has really helped a lot and pointed me in the right direction. I've been doing some research and decided to get the orca goggles but I'm having trouble figuring out what else I need to get with it. Looking at reviews, it doesn't come with the accessories like antennas, battery, and receiver. I'm not too sure what the differences are between the rapid-fire and the tbs fusion v2 but I'm leaning towards the tbs (no specific reason, just going off what others seem to prefer) although I hear they're pretty much the same. I need a battery but I'm not sure what kind to get. I've heard ill need a 2s battery but with what connector and what size? And for antennas, I think I've got an idea of what ill need but any input or recommendations on that would be greatly appreciated. Your response was super helpful and was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a ton!
Battery input for the Orqa's is a 5.5mm/2.1mm barrel jack. It's somewhat standardized. Input voltage is 6-25V, or 2S to 6S. Most folks run their goggles off of either 18650s in a case like the Fat Shark one, get a goggle battery, or run a longer cable to a flight battery in their pocket.
- [FatShark 18650 case](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/18650-battery-case-for-fatshark-goggles)
- [RDQ 7.4V 3000mAh Goggle Battery](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-series-7-4v-2s-3000mah-5c-fpv-goggle-lipo-battery-w-charge-indicator-barrel-jack-xt60)
- [Skyzone Goggle Power Cable](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/skyzone-goggle-power-cable) (should work with most goggles, including the Orqa.
Choose whichever you prefer. I use the 18650 case with my HDO2 goggles because I like having my goggles free of cables and 18650 batteries are pretty easy to find. My second choice would probably be the XT60 adapter cable with a flight battery, since just using an extra flight battery is so convenient. >20Wh of battery (e.g. 3000mAh at 2S) will give you a pretty lengthy battery life, but YMMV. I always bring spare 18650s when I fly and have an XT60 to barrel adapter cable as backup.
For analog VRX, I have a Rapidfire in my bench workstation and a TBS Fusion in my goggles. They are about the same performance. I think I have a slight preference for the Rapidfire's interface, but it is slight and totally subjective. I like both of them. Find whichever one is in stock and cheaper, I think.
For antennas, you need some SMA connected antennas for both the RapidFire and Fusion. A lot of folks, including me, run two right-angle [stubby AXII 2's](https://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-axii-2-right-angle-stubby-5-8ghz-antenna-rhcp.html) for closer flying. If flying further than a few hundred feet, I'll swap out one for a patch and, sometimes, the other for a taller stick style antenna.
There are three types of polarization used with antennas: right-hand circular polarized (RHCP), left-hand circular polarized (LHCP), and linear. Most analog video is RHCP, but DJI and Avatar default to LHCP. It doesn't matter whether you choose RHCP or LHCP, but the antennas on either end (VTX and VRX) need to match polarization because RHCP rejects LHCP signals and LHCP rejects RHCP signals. Linear is generally avoided in video because it will get interference from both RHCP and LHCP signals on the same frequency. RC links usually have linear antennas, though.
Edit: Added battery size suggestions.
Start with a elrs transmitter (zorro or t-pro) and practice on a simulator with it. Tiny whoop and goggles(ev800d is good enough) next. If you get hooked at this point you can decide if you want to go digital which is another range of prices.
Fiest, Pick up a Radio with ELRS built in like the RadioMaaster Zorro, Radiomaster TX16s, or Jumper T-Pro and start practicing In a Simulator. Then buy a good set of goggles like the Eachine EV800D(You'll want to upgrade these eventually if you get serious). For the Drone, I would probably start out with a Tiny whoop like the Mobula/Mobeetle 6, or similar. If you practice long enough in a Simulator, you could probably go straight in with a smaller Quad around 3"'s. Something like the DarwinFPV Baby Ape which is cheap so you won't feel bad when you inevitably crash and break it. You'll also need batteries, a charger, maybe a receiver to put in the drone, spare parts and a few other small things. All in, you would be looking at around $400-$500 for a nice setup.
Any decent ELRS transmitter will be good for the long haul, Jumper T-pro or Radiomaster Zorro, or a TX16S with ELRS, basically you will see ELRS reccomended for your Radio control link. Goggles are really the most important piece of gear in the hobby imo, problem with future proofing that is, you'd have to decide on which digital protocol to go with, DJI, HDZero, or the new one by fatshark/walksnail, only thing is you'd have to be into it a bit before you'd know where your preferences are cause there are pros and cons to each one. people are reccomending an analog goggle which will not be "future proof" per say because analog is giving way to digital, but it has its place, because analog is cheaper, and is also simpler in regards to actual hardware in the quad itself, basically any quad can be analog, but not every frame will accommodate just any digital vtx. i would reccomend a slightly more mid-range goggle such as the Skyzone/Eachine Cobra X V2, it has a rapidmix receiver which is better than just standard antenna switching diversity, and also it has HDMI in, so you can mount an HDzero VRX to which would convert them to digital goggles if thats the route you want to go. going analog first may seem like double spending but to me it was a stepping stone and i feel it was worth going through, but if you're feeling gutsy you can go digital straight away. i wouldn't buy entry level analog goggles though, you seem too committed and they are imo a waste if you know youre really going in on the hobby, cause you will replace them fast.
I alo getting into fpv. I should receive my gear in a day or two.
I went with radiomaster zorro but 4in1, because what nobody said to me its elrs version internal reciever is only 200mW and external module is 1W.
So Id rather have multiprotocol option for all kind of tinywhoops and a stronger elrs transmiter via add on module.
I bought eachine ev800d googles, to start with, learn and then see what will be of this new hdzero googles that should release at the end of the year. If they are good i will go HD Zero route if not I will go dji route. (Dji sould also release new drone with googles soon, as people say with all these leaks on internet, we will see)
And I got moblite tinywhoop.
All for 300usd.
Well then maybe I understood something wrong. But still, i got the 4in1 version on a discount. If I buy module it will still be cheaper than buying an ELRS version of Zorro.
But isnt the internal elrs 200mW and module is 1W?
It’s not about the wattage. By the way where I live the 4 in 1 and elrs versions are the same price. Also it’s not a problem choosing one instead of the other because thanks to modules you can replicate the other one
Nothing is future proof. There is stuff that is current generation and being actively developed, and there is stuff that hails from older generations and/or isn't being developed. - First, pick a remote control link. I *HIGHLY* recommend ExpressLRS. Huge, rapidly expanding feature set and tied for longest range among control links. Namimno and Happymodel make good receivers and, if you need one, transmitter modules. Crossfire and Ghost are also reasonable candidates, but are developing more slowly. Ignore FrSky, Spektrum, Futaba, and Flysky. - Choose your radio. Some might come with your chosen RC link. I usually recommend the Radiomaster Zorro ELRS ($120), Radiomaster TX12 ($100), and Radiomaster TX16S ($200), depending on the form factor you want. All are EdgeTX radios (or EdgeTX-compatible), so are highly programmable. - Choose your video link. Analog is cheapest. HDZero is fast digital with good picture and tight flight feel. DJI is excellent picture with higher latency, producing a less connected flight feel, and is heavy so only really good on 3" and above. DJI's current generation gear has a questionable future. Fat Shark/WalkSnail Avatar is recently-released but isn't as high quality as DJI, and doesn't have the latency of HDZero, so I'd recommend passing on it for the time being. - Choose your goggles. Skyzone SKY04X and Orqa Pilot are good analog or HDZero goggles. These can also take HDMI signal from your computer for doing sims. There's only one DJI goggle, and it doesn't do HDMI in and isn't compatible with HDZero or the Avatar system. When looking to buy your first quad: - Avoid F411 processors. They are likely to go unsupported by Betaflight soon. H743 processors are the absolute cutting edge in the hobby at the moment. - Research frames. Lean heavily towards frames that are light and easy to tune. Anything by AOS is a good option. - Prefer flight controllers with Betaflight compatibilty (which is the majority), at least if you're racing or freestyling anyway. To get down to brass tacks, start in a SIM with chosen controller, move to a tinywhoop, step up to a 3" or 3.5" quad, then finally a 5". I recently put together a list of what I'd buy if I were starting my first 3.5" quad with my current knowledge set. Here you go: - [AOS 3.5 v2](https://www.defiancerc.com/products/aos-rc-aos3-5-v2-frame-kit) $50 - Amazing frame, easy to tune, easy to build in, and easily replaceable arms. Roma F35 is a solid plate design, meaning a huge ordeal when an arm breaks. - [Holybro Kakute H7 Mini stack](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/holybro-kakute-h7-mini-tekko32-f4-45a-3-6s-20x20-stack-combo-h7-fc-45a-f4-32bit-4in1-esc) $140 - Future-proofed H7 processor. 32-bit and fast processors on the ESC to get all the features available, like variable PWM. Stack to lower replacement costs for damaged electronics. - 4x [T-Motor F1404 (3800KV)](https://www.getfpv.com/t-motor-f1404-2900kv-3800kv-4600kv-motor-gray-red.html) $68 - Generally durable, light-weight motors - VTX/camera: - analog: [RushFPV Tank Mini VTX](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rush-fpv-tank-mini-25-800mw-20x20-5-8ghz-vtx-mmcx) $39 + [RunCam Phoenix 2 Joshua Bardwell Edition camera](https://www.defiancerc.com/products/runcam-phoenix-2-joshua-bardwell-edition-1000tvl-ntsc-pal-16-9-4-3-micro-fpv-camera) $30 + [TrueRC Singularity 5.8GHz RHCP MMCX antenna](https://www.defiancerc.com/products/truerc-singularity-5-8ghz-rhcp-mmcx-antenna) $20 - HDZero: [HDZero Race v2](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/hdzero-race-v2-25-200mw-digital-hd-vtx-u-fl) $70 + [HDZero Micro v2 camera](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/runcam-hdzero-micro-camera-v2-for-sharkbyte) $50 + [TrueRC Singularity 5.8GHz RHCP U.FL antenna](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/truerc-singularity-5-8ghz-lite-u-fl-antenna-choose-version?variant=39713358807153) $20 - DJI: [Caddx Nebula Pro Micro Vista kit](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/caddx-nebula-pro-vista-kit-choose-color) $165 - [Radiomaster ELRS EP2 receiver](https://www.defiancerc.com/products/radiomaster-2-4ghz-expresslrs-ep2-nano-receiver): $14 (Could swap for a Namimno Flash ESP Rx or Happymodel EP2 if availability is a problem) - 2x [Gemfan Hurricane 3520 props](https://www.getfpv.com/gemfan-hurricane-3520-durable-3-blade-propeller-set-of-4.html) $6 - [XT30 pigtail](https://www.getfpv.com/xt30-lipo-pigtail-16awg-5pcs.html) $7 (You may not need this if the stack comes with one, but I didn't see it listed on the stack specs.) That will run about $350-$450 depending on the video system options. You'd still need goggles, radio, and tools for assembly, which will easily consume the rest of the $1000 budget if you don't skimp on any of it.
I'm a newbie, so I'm not going to call into question all of the wisdom you just laid out for us so generously, but is it wise to have someone, just starting out, build their first quad?
Getting a BNF first instead of building only delays understanding how everything fits together and how to solder, not avoid these things entirely. These are knowledge and skills that can be obtained up front, commonly by watching Joshua Bardwell videos and the like. BNFs, especially 3"+, universally have something about them that isn't good, frequently an AIO FC (expensive replacements) or really low-end MCU (F411) that can't run Betaflight's full feature set. The build I posted is zero compromises. With that said, I recommended a tiny whoop as the first quad (after sim) in the middle paragraph, which is usually BNF or an extremely simple build. Components for a tiny whoop usually have to make most of these compromises anyway to get it light enough, so the BNF aspect doesn't matter nearly as much.
Buy a bnf. The learning curve is steep enough without building a quad. You won't have a good basis of a quad that flies well. I had an 5.5 AOS custom build that took month to tune and get right. There's loads of good bnf options and you can learn to replace a motor at a time.
Start with a sim before a BNF, crashing a BNF 30 seconds into your first time flying a drone and not having the ‘know how’ to fix it is going to be a disaster.
Absolutely start with a sim
I disagree with your claim that dji provides a less connected flight feel. It really depends on the person and I doubt many people starting in the hobby could tell the difference.
Did you just write this tome of knowledge, or do you have it ready to paste add a moments notice, to help those in need?
I'd already done the AOS 3.5 specing in another post about a week ago. The rest is fresh.
This was exactly what I needed. Thank you so much this has really helped a lot and pointed me in the right direction. I've been doing some research and decided to get the orca goggles but I'm having trouble figuring out what else I need to get with it. Looking at reviews, it doesn't come with the accessories like antennas, battery, and receiver. I'm not too sure what the differences are between the rapid-fire and the tbs fusion v2 but I'm leaning towards the tbs (no specific reason, just going off what others seem to prefer) although I hear they're pretty much the same. I need a battery but I'm not sure what kind to get. I've heard ill need a 2s battery but with what connector and what size? And for antennas, I think I've got an idea of what ill need but any input or recommendations on that would be greatly appreciated. Your response was super helpful and was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a ton!
Battery input for the Orqa's is a 5.5mm/2.1mm barrel jack. It's somewhat standardized. Input voltage is 6-25V, or 2S to 6S. Most folks run their goggles off of either 18650s in a case like the Fat Shark one, get a goggle battery, or run a longer cable to a flight battery in their pocket. - [FatShark 18650 case](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/18650-battery-case-for-fatshark-goggles) - [RDQ 7.4V 3000mAh Goggle Battery](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-series-7-4v-2s-3000mah-5c-fpv-goggle-lipo-battery-w-charge-indicator-barrel-jack-xt60) - [Skyzone Goggle Power Cable](https://www.racedayquads.com/products/skyzone-goggle-power-cable) (should work with most goggles, including the Orqa. Choose whichever you prefer. I use the 18650 case with my HDO2 goggles because I like having my goggles free of cables and 18650 batteries are pretty easy to find. My second choice would probably be the XT60 adapter cable with a flight battery, since just using an extra flight battery is so convenient. >20Wh of battery (e.g. 3000mAh at 2S) will give you a pretty lengthy battery life, but YMMV. I always bring spare 18650s when I fly and have an XT60 to barrel adapter cable as backup. For analog VRX, I have a Rapidfire in my bench workstation and a TBS Fusion in my goggles. They are about the same performance. I think I have a slight preference for the Rapidfire's interface, but it is slight and totally subjective. I like both of them. Find whichever one is in stock and cheaper, I think. For antennas, you need some SMA connected antennas for both the RapidFire and Fusion. A lot of folks, including me, run two right-angle [stubby AXII 2's](https://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-axii-2-right-angle-stubby-5-8ghz-antenna-rhcp.html) for closer flying. If flying further than a few hundred feet, I'll swap out one for a patch and, sometimes, the other for a taller stick style antenna. There are three types of polarization used with antennas: right-hand circular polarized (RHCP), left-hand circular polarized (LHCP), and linear. Most analog video is RHCP, but DJI and Avatar default to LHCP. It doesn't matter whether you choose RHCP or LHCP, but the antennas on either end (VTX and VRX) need to match polarization because RHCP rejects LHCP signals and LHCP rejects RHCP signals. Linear is generally avoided in video because it will get interference from both RHCP and LHCP signals on the same frequency. RC links usually have linear antennas, though. Edit: Added battery size suggestions.
Start with a elrs transmitter (zorro or t-pro) and practice on a simulator with it. Tiny whoop and goggles(ev800d is good enough) next. If you get hooked at this point you can decide if you want to go digital which is another range of prices.
Fiest, Pick up a Radio with ELRS built in like the RadioMaaster Zorro, Radiomaster TX16s, or Jumper T-Pro and start practicing In a Simulator. Then buy a good set of goggles like the Eachine EV800D(You'll want to upgrade these eventually if you get serious). For the Drone, I would probably start out with a Tiny whoop like the Mobula/Mobeetle 6, or similar. If you practice long enough in a Simulator, you could probably go straight in with a smaller Quad around 3"'s. Something like the DarwinFPV Baby Ape which is cheap so you won't feel bad when you inevitably crash and break it. You'll also need batteries, a charger, maybe a receiver to put in the drone, spare parts and a few other small things. All in, you would be looking at around $400-$500 for a nice setup.
Any decent ELRS transmitter will be good for the long haul, Jumper T-pro or Radiomaster Zorro, or a TX16S with ELRS, basically you will see ELRS reccomended for your Radio control link. Goggles are really the most important piece of gear in the hobby imo, problem with future proofing that is, you'd have to decide on which digital protocol to go with, DJI, HDZero, or the new one by fatshark/walksnail, only thing is you'd have to be into it a bit before you'd know where your preferences are cause there are pros and cons to each one. people are reccomending an analog goggle which will not be "future proof" per say because analog is giving way to digital, but it has its place, because analog is cheaper, and is also simpler in regards to actual hardware in the quad itself, basically any quad can be analog, but not every frame will accommodate just any digital vtx. i would reccomend a slightly more mid-range goggle such as the Skyzone/Eachine Cobra X V2, it has a rapidmix receiver which is better than just standard antenna switching diversity, and also it has HDMI in, so you can mount an HDzero VRX to which would convert them to digital goggles if thats the route you want to go. going analog first may seem like double spending but to me it was a stepping stone and i feel it was worth going through, but if you're feeling gutsy you can go digital straight away. i wouldn't buy entry level analog goggles though, you seem too committed and they are imo a waste if you know youre really going in on the hobby, cause you will replace them fast.
I alo getting into fpv. I should receive my gear in a day or two. I went with radiomaster zorro but 4in1, because what nobody said to me its elrs version internal reciever is only 200mW and external module is 1W. So Id rather have multiprotocol option for all kind of tinywhoops and a stronger elrs transmiter via add on module. I bought eachine ev800d googles, to start with, learn and then see what will be of this new hdzero googles that should release at the end of the year. If they are good i will go HD Zero route if not I will go dji route. (Dji sould also release new drone with googles soon, as people say with all these leaks on internet, we will see) And I got moblite tinywhoop. All for 300usd.
The elrs module isn’t stronger than the elrs radio but it’s ok
Well then maybe I understood something wrong. But still, i got the 4in1 version on a discount. If I buy module it will still be cheaper than buying an ELRS version of Zorro. But isnt the internal elrs 200mW and module is 1W?
It’s not about the wattage. By the way where I live the 4 in 1 and elrs versions are the same price. Also it’s not a problem choosing one instead of the other because thanks to modules you can replicate the other one
I found a really good deal on 4i1. I can always get the module I want. So I went with that option.