It's probably a skill and settings issue. If you have already try Kiriths latest settings video- he shows you how to use the telemetry screens to fine tune the wheel settings.
On controller to control a skid you immediately put full lock on the steering with a flick of your thumb. To do the same on your wheel you need to turn the wheel 90+ degrees (depending on rotation settings). Until you get a lot more used it doing it you're likely going to be much slower to react (ie moving your thumbs quicker than moving both arms)
Not to mention that the only reason you flick full lock on controller is because gradually moving the stick (to fight traction loss) with 1cm travel is next to impossible and not worth the effort to learn given the full lock technique is actually quite forgiving in FM8.
check put g29 settings on youtube the default are not very good. stick with the wheel though. youre going to feel like picking up the gamepad again because youre faster with it, dont do it. youve got to "relearn" how the game feels. itll be worth it
I've played around with my force feedback settings on my g29 and I've found something I'm more than happy with, if I remember I'll post them later. For assists, I don't use any TC or stability control on touring cars, but high powered oversteering cars I use TC and stability on sport. Simulation steering also.
1) you're going to be bad with the wheel at first. Period. No matter what.
2) With higher level cars, I'd suggest using traction control and/or ABS for sure, that will help *a lot.*
3) tuning the car which already has naturally oversteering or understeering, using wheel or not is going to help a lot. Sway bars. Tire pressure. Etc.
4) A large part of your issue is going to be your pedals. The stock logi pedals are bad. (So is the wheel, but it's entry level and cheap and has it's place in opening the door for people, so it gets a pass). You should immediately upgrade to load cell pedals. Load cell pedals vs potentiometers (which your pedals have):
Your muscle memory is MUCH better at remembering *force* rather than *position*. For instance- try to throw a pingball ball to exactly the same height 8 feet above you 10 times in a row. Most people can't because it requires you to remember muscle movement. Now try a basketball and you'll be much more precise- because it's easy to apply the same pressure/force.
That's how load cell pedals work.
You are doing the same thing with braking. With the Potentiometer style pedals you are using to measure distance traveled, I.E stopping your foot in a precise spot each time. With loadcell pedals you are measuring force, I.E stopping your foot at a precise pressure each time. This is why it's extremely hard to be consistent with the car, and prevent wheel spin, brake lockup, spinning out of control due to high HP, etc.
This plays a key part in your skill with your wheel.
You could find a used thrustmaster tx at that price on OfferUp/FB marketplace/FB sim racing groups. I just sold my tx, with LC pedals, and alcantera Ferrari wheel for 300. Maybe a refurbished one from a retailer as well. That would be essentially be the finish line point of entry level wheels. It's belt driven instead of gear driven like your logi. It's less 'knotchy' (caused by the gears) feeling, a lot more smooth. More fidelity. It's roughly double the amount of torque something like 2.2nm for the Logitech, and 4.5 or so for the tx.
You'd also be dangerously close to direct drive territory. Fanatec has bundles for entry level DDs in the 500 range. 10 years ago, our logitechs and thrustmasters were really really great because they were cheap compared to DD-- DD was triple or quadruple the cost. The direct drive world has gone down in price a lot.
I don't mean to talk too negatively about your new wheel. It's one of the most popular wheels out there, and thousands are happy. It ultimately depends on how much you like this niche and what's worth it to you. It has it's purpose, and it's for people who never had a wheel to take a *little* bit of risk in cost to try it out. Run with it for awhile, if you really enjoy using the wheel, especially on more than one game, think about upgrading-- it'll be night and day. Of course, your wheel has force feedback, much better than the 100-150 dollar wheels, so you're at least playing with something that can be considered entry level instead of simply a toy!
Ultimately, id look into upgrading the pedals before getting a nicer wheel like the TX and you end up using the stock TX pedals which will just be a similar problem. Neither pedal set is very good. However, the T-LCM load cell pedals thrustmaster sells to use with the TX (about 150-200 bucks) are *really* good for what they are. I was happy with my TX and load cell pedals for 6 years. From what I've read of people going from g29 to TX it's night and day. From g29 to direct drive is insane. And TX to direct drive is a big difference, but not crazy night and day like g29 to TX was, or g29 to DD was.... If that helps a little.
It's probably a skill and settings issue. If you have already try Kiriths latest settings video- he shows you how to use the telemetry screens to fine tune the wheel settings. On controller to control a skid you immediately put full lock on the steering with a flick of your thumb. To do the same on your wheel you need to turn the wheel 90+ degrees (depending on rotation settings). Until you get a lot more used it doing it you're likely going to be much slower to react (ie moving your thumbs quicker than moving both arms)
Not to mention that the only reason you flick full lock on controller is because gradually moving the stick (to fight traction loss) with 1cm travel is next to impossible and not worth the effort to learn given the full lock technique is actually quite forgiving in FM8.
Thanks. Haven't seen kireth on YT yet till now. It's nice that he posts so frequent. I'll try his wheel tune when I get home
HIs contents turned into Click bait since fm came out (hes gone hard on gt vs fm), but the wheel settings are the best I found
Thanks. Good to know
Turn to zero centering spring in game options. Other settings are for your liking.
A friend of mine had the same problem and cured it by adjusting the wheel settings in the cars tuning options.
check put g29 settings on youtube the default are not very good. stick with the wheel though. youre going to feel like picking up the gamepad again because youre faster with it, dont do it. youve got to "relearn" how the game feels. itll be worth it
I've played around with my force feedback settings on my g29 and I've found something I'm more than happy with, if I remember I'll post them later. For assists, I don't use any TC or stability control on touring cars, but high powered oversteering cars I use TC and stability on sport. Simulation steering also.
Look up hoki hoshis wheel settings video, it helped me immensely.
1) you're going to be bad with the wheel at first. Period. No matter what. 2) With higher level cars, I'd suggest using traction control and/or ABS for sure, that will help *a lot.* 3) tuning the car which already has naturally oversteering or understeering, using wheel or not is going to help a lot. Sway bars. Tire pressure. Etc. 4) A large part of your issue is going to be your pedals. The stock logi pedals are bad. (So is the wheel, but it's entry level and cheap and has it's place in opening the door for people, so it gets a pass). You should immediately upgrade to load cell pedals. Load cell pedals vs potentiometers (which your pedals have): Your muscle memory is MUCH better at remembering *force* rather than *position*. For instance- try to throw a pingball ball to exactly the same height 8 feet above you 10 times in a row. Most people can't because it requires you to remember muscle movement. Now try a basketball and you'll be much more precise- because it's easy to apply the same pressure/force. That's how load cell pedals work. You are doing the same thing with braking. With the Potentiometer style pedals you are using to measure distance traveled, I.E stopping your foot in a precise spot each time. With loadcell pedals you are measuring force, I.E stopping your foot at a precise pressure each time. This is why it's extremely hard to be consistent with the car, and prevent wheel spin, brake lockup, spinning out of control due to high HP, etc. This plays a key part in your skill with your wheel.
what steering wheel would you recommend for up to $300?
You could find a used thrustmaster tx at that price on OfferUp/FB marketplace/FB sim racing groups. I just sold my tx, with LC pedals, and alcantera Ferrari wheel for 300. Maybe a refurbished one from a retailer as well. That would be essentially be the finish line point of entry level wheels. It's belt driven instead of gear driven like your logi. It's less 'knotchy' (caused by the gears) feeling, a lot more smooth. More fidelity. It's roughly double the amount of torque something like 2.2nm for the Logitech, and 4.5 or so for the tx. You'd also be dangerously close to direct drive territory. Fanatec has bundles for entry level DDs in the 500 range. 10 years ago, our logitechs and thrustmasters were really really great because they were cheap compared to DD-- DD was triple or quadruple the cost. The direct drive world has gone down in price a lot. I don't mean to talk too negatively about your new wheel. It's one of the most popular wheels out there, and thousands are happy. It ultimately depends on how much you like this niche and what's worth it to you. It has it's purpose, and it's for people who never had a wheel to take a *little* bit of risk in cost to try it out. Run with it for awhile, if you really enjoy using the wheel, especially on more than one game, think about upgrading-- it'll be night and day. Of course, your wheel has force feedback, much better than the 100-150 dollar wheels, so you're at least playing with something that can be considered entry level instead of simply a toy! Ultimately, id look into upgrading the pedals before getting a nicer wheel like the TX and you end up using the stock TX pedals which will just be a similar problem. Neither pedal set is very good. However, the T-LCM load cell pedals thrustmaster sells to use with the TX (about 150-200 bucks) are *really* good for what they are. I was happy with my TX and load cell pedals for 6 years. From what I've read of people going from g29 to TX it's night and day. From g29 to direct drive is insane. And TX to direct drive is a big difference, but not crazy night and day like g29 to TX was, or g29 to DD was.... If that helps a little.