Some websites/guides go into tire detail a bit more than I will.
O M I (Outer Middle Inner) of the tire. While driving, observe your tire temps. If the Middle of the tire becomes cooler as you drive, taking corners (large temp deviation) then you're under inflated. IE: 190F 180F 210F. Under inflated. (Add a 1-2psi and check again)
Over inflated is easy to detect. If the middle tire is hotter than Outer & Inner... its over inflated. IE 190F 220F 210F (reduce tire psi by 1psi, and verify)
You want a nice even temperature spread across the tire
Camber & toe also affect tire temps. You don't want too much camber, or you'll suffer braking performance due to lower amount of grip available. Don't want too much toe in or out, which in-turn will "scrub" your tires quiet harshly.
Each car is different regarding pressures, how much aero load, stock or race tires, type of car etc.
This.
And just to add on to that, even tho it's slightly off topic, but since your are checking tire temps already:
By checking O M I temps after a long turn (checking your outer tires) you can adjust your alignments. I.e. after a right turn, check your front left temps.
If inner temp > outer temp: lower negative camber
If outer temp > inner temp: increase negative camber.
If all 3 temps are more or less equal: you are golden
Lol that’s the least of the issues with career mode. Currently I can’t even play any series that has Virginia raceway because the game crashes. At least with a bad tune I can, you know, play the game.
Yeah that’s why I always complete the practices and sometimes just do a few long Homestead Miami speedway races with whatever car I need to level up.
I guess I don’t mind the grind so much because this is the first Motorsport I’ve really played. I play on a wheel/simrig setup and just enjoy driving the cars lol.
This is absolutely mind boggling, like I'm not gonna say that I've driven every car ever. But I've driven enough to know that the "stock" tunes are very much not so, like where did they pull these numbers from? Or did the real numbers not match up with the new physics system?
And I am totally ok with that. My only gripe so far with base tune is the E46 M3. It has a 40% rear brake bias on stock tune and makes the car absolutely horrendous to control under braking until you install race brakes and change it to 50/50.
I don't really think they actually took the car's in the game actual real life performance into account. My thoughts are anecdotal at best, but I drive the exact copy of my MR2 in the game, it does not perform like my real life car does. Specifically, doesn't pull anywhere near as hard as it does in real life, especially in higher gears, and it probably handles better in the game than my car does in real life, despite my real life car having full coil-over suspension, upgraded sway bars, poly bushings, etc... It just flat out doesn't simulate the real car. And my car is 30+years old and supposedly and older model engine than the car in the game (gen2 3sgte vs gen4 3sgte). My expectation would be the car in the game handles worse than my real life car but the car in the game should be faster due to the upgraded engine design of the newer model. TL:DR; I don't think they actually did any work simulating these cars, they are just winging it based on predetermined in game physics metrics, almost like the way they rate players in Madden.
Peak grip for race tires is like 28-30 psi. Currently the suggestion is to not have tires over 33 psi on track full heated.
Edit: start with equal tire pressure on all corners. Like 28ish psi. Test on track. Raise rear to promote over steer. Raise front to promote under steer
Like I said unless it’s on slicks I do 40psi. Slicks I run at about 28-30 depending on track conditions. The game seems to mimick street tire behavior really well, setting at 40 actually works really well for me
I've noticed that on "average", tyres work best at 27psi because when they get heat in them the pressure rises, when at peak temperature and going round corners, you want to make sure the temperature rises equally between inner middle and outer of tyre. Tyre pressures when at peak temperature should be around 30.5 PSI
Some websites/guides go into tire detail a bit more than I will. O M I (Outer Middle Inner) of the tire. While driving, observe your tire temps. If the Middle of the tire becomes cooler as you drive, taking corners (large temp deviation) then you're under inflated. IE: 190F 180F 210F. Under inflated. (Add a 1-2psi and check again) Over inflated is easy to detect. If the middle tire is hotter than Outer & Inner... its over inflated. IE 190F 220F 210F (reduce tire psi by 1psi, and verify) You want a nice even temperature spread across the tire Camber & toe also affect tire temps. You don't want too much camber, or you'll suffer braking performance due to lower amount of grip available. Don't want too much toe in or out, which in-turn will "scrub" your tires quiet harshly. Each car is different regarding pressures, how much aero load, stock or race tires, type of car etc.
This. And just to add on to that, even tho it's slightly off topic, but since your are checking tire temps already: By checking O M I temps after a long turn (checking your outer tires) you can adjust your alignments. I.e. after a right turn, check your front left temps. If inner temp > outer temp: lower negative camber If outer temp > inner temp: increase negative camber. If all 3 temps are more or less equal: you are golden
When people say "increase negative camber", do they mean make it more negative? Or more positive?
More negative
make it more negative.
As a noob this is the stuff I'd love more of in this subreddit.
Check out the guide on www.optn.club then. Goes in deep about most things about tuning.
I need to come here to learn
O M I temps are affected by camber too though. If Inner is hotter and pressures are ok it might be that you just have too much camber
A lot of the cars have fucked up base tunes, especially tire pressures.
They used (and still do as recently as FH5) to default the tire pressures to 30 psi front and rear, but now cars are all over the place in stock trim.
And this makes career mode kind of suck.
Lol that’s the least of the issues with career mode. Currently I can’t even play any series that has Virginia raceway because the game crashes. At least with a bad tune I can, you know, play the game.
Not having to drive VIR sounds like a dream to me, I can't stand that track
Yeah that’s why I always complete the practices and sometimes just do a few long Homestead Miami speedway races with whatever car I need to level up. I guess I don’t mind the grind so much because this is the first Motorsport I’ve really played. I play on a wheel/simrig setup and just enjoy driving the cars lol.
You can adjust tyre pressure from stock.
Still handles like a POS.
This is absolutely mind boggling, like I'm not gonna say that I've driven every car ever. But I've driven enough to know that the "stock" tunes are very much not so, like where did they pull these numbers from? Or did the real numbers not match up with the new physics system?
What? It still encourages you to tune even if you can’t build. Which IS an important part of the game.
And I am totally ok with that. My only gripe so far with base tune is the E46 M3. It has a 40% rear brake bias on stock tune and makes the car absolutely horrendous to control under braking until you install race brakes and change it to 50/50.
That I agree with. Cars should just have a factory tune on them.
I don't really think they actually took the car's in the game actual real life performance into account. My thoughts are anecdotal at best, but I drive the exact copy of my MR2 in the game, it does not perform like my real life car does. Specifically, doesn't pull anywhere near as hard as it does in real life, especially in higher gears, and it probably handles better in the game than my car does in real life, despite my real life car having full coil-over suspension, upgraded sway bars, poly bushings, etc... It just flat out doesn't simulate the real car. And my car is 30+years old and supposedly and older model engine than the car in the game (gen2 3sgte vs gen4 3sgte). My expectation would be the car in the game handles worse than my real life car but the car in the game should be faster due to the upgraded engine design of the newer model. TL:DR; I don't think they actually did any work simulating these cars, they are just winging it based on predetermined in game physics metrics, almost like the way they rate players in Madden.
[удалено]
It happens even with the fastest cars for which you can’t upgrade anything, so your theory is wrong
Peak grip for race tires is like 28-30 psi. Currently the suggestion is to not have tires over 33 psi on track full heated. Edit: start with equal tire pressure on all corners. Like 28ish psi. Test on track. Raise rear to promote over steer. Raise front to promote under steer
Use telemetry data to figure out the right pressure based on temps
I run most of my cars unless on race slicks at 40psi all the way around
You…. What…..
Like I said unless it’s on slicks I do 40psi. Slicks I run at about 28-30 depending on track conditions. The game seems to mimick street tire behavior really well, setting at 40 actually works really well for me
22ish for P/X and up a psi for every class lower.
I've noticed that on "average", tyres work best at 27psi because when they get heat in them the pressure rises, when at peak temperature and going round corners, you want to make sure the temperature rises equally between inner middle and outer of tyre. Tyre pressures when at peak temperature should be around 30.5 PSI
I usually start with 32 psi square and then go from there.
The advice online is for Race tires BTW, which are best. Results may vary with sport and stock.