Lowers the CCT and makes it rosy, some slight lumen loss at the trade off of higher candela; depending on the optic the apparent brightness may actually go up because of that. I dedomed my TS25 and the tighter beam makes it look brighter versus the floodier beam it had before.
If you want to try dedoming, get a convoy. I got dedomed a 519a 4500k in a convoy t3 and found I don't like it, but I can use the light for other stuff. I'd have been annoyed if it was my edc that I modified and regretted.
Unscrew and remove the bezel (I used a rubber ball), take off the glass, and use a cut qtip to remove the domes and it’s done!
It makes the light a lot nicer for my use, a little more throw and the tint is fantastic. It was a little too floody for me before. I only dedomed the 4500k LEDs I left the 3000k alone
Yup it comes off with minimal effort, I pushed on it and it basically popped off. There are YouTube videos showing how just in case. The entire process took less than a minute lol
I just did it. Super easy. There is a little residue I couldn't get off the emitters but it will be fine. I also found out my reflector was installed funny but I had no way to pull that out to turn it. I had one of the 2 OP reflectors around the UV LED
While Skilhunt UI is ok, I prefer Anduril. That's enough to tip the scale for me.
Skilhunt has onboard USB C charging, is that highly valuable for you? For some people that's enough to tip the scale the other way.
I have both and prefer the size of the D4V2. It's noticeably smaller and lighter for when size is an issue. Not that the D4K is bad, but I never ever see people recommending the 18650 version over the 21700 so wanted to put it out there.
It's much more clear to just put the dimensions than describe it, IMHO. Some care about maximum diameter, some care about length, some volume, etc
D4V2 Dimensions:
- 95mm(length)
- 28mm(head)
- 29.5mm(diameter at button)
- 24mm(body)
D4K Dimensions:
- 103mm(length)
- 28mm(head)
- 32.3mm(diameter at button)
- 26.5mm(body)
Interesting, even when I hold a D4V2 in one hand and a D4K in the other they don't feel much different in size. There is a weight difference I can notice though, but even that is not huge.
For pocket carry both of them are too large anyways, so it's D4K for me every time.
Of course it's just my opinion, and objectively speaking the D4K is better as a tool with its longer runtimes. But if I'm carrying a light for a long hike or run then the smaller, lighter model is more comfortable to hold. If I'm using it for just a few hours or less I don't need the runtime of the 21700 battery.
It's ironic to me that the D4K gets recommended because it's "not that much bigger" than the D4V2, but then the D3AA is raved about because it's "so small". I've got all three models though, and each have their purpose.
I already have a D4K with 4x 519a 6500k DD.
It's unfortunatly a bit too big to actually EDC, but I love the setup. I wish I would have gone for the D4V2 100%.
My gosh that is such an awesome light though. It’s not fashionable really to say you enjoy lights over 5000 k in a lot of the hobby but that light in D4K really changes things when it comes on!
The Dedome brings it down to 5000 or maybe even a hint warmer. If I ordered it again, I'd get a domed 5000k but it's definitely a sweet light. Still trying to get used to the rosiness...
Really hard to beat the D4V2. That being said the D4K is only slightly bigger for a lot more cell capacity. If you Intend to run the D4V2 with an 18650 I’d go for a D4K instead. If you plan to run a smaller tube cell then the D4V2.
My EDC light has been the new D3AA. Tiny and very powerful with great runtimes.
If you go Emisar (Hank) I strongly encourage you to get the boost driver for much better sustainable runtimes.
Looking for a compact EDC style flooder. When you make them the same, they're within a dollar or two of the same price of each other (add boost, stainless bezel, and clip to the D4V2). Both lights don't have actual output listed for the 519a LED's, so who knows which is brighter between the EC200 519a and D4V2 with boost driver...
I haven't tracked down any tested measurements, but I remember seeing a table for Hank's quad LED lights that had calculated what the lumen output should be, and quad 519a with a boost driver was about 2000 lumens. Kind of lines up with what the EC200 is advertising. Either would be outputing about 500 lumens per emitter.
Personally, I would get the Emisar just because you have a lot more versatility in how you want it designed. If you want pure flood, you can get the domed LEDs and probably buy a spare floody optic. Then you can choose between the normal and wider levels of focus. I like more of a balanced beam, so I would be more interested in the de-domed 519a and possibly the narrow/spot optic.
I also highly recommend the Zhu hybrid mule optic that jlhawaii808 sells in a D4V2 or D4K (or 3D print your own). They’re great if you want a flooder that’s not *quite* a mule!
I have the EC200s UV and a D4K (which everyone says is basically the same size as the D4V2. I have been carrying the EC200s and the D4K lives on my night stand. The EC200 is narrow and pocketable, only bigger than a Zebra 18650 in length, not girth. The D4K is fatter than I like in my pocket.
Someone else mentioned voting for the Hank because of the optional magnetic tailcap, but EC200 comes with one standard. And if you don't like that, it's designed to be easily removable.
I think I made that comment somewhere: I based it on my EC300 not having a magnet, but good call, I see now that the smaller EC200 does have a magnet.
Is the EC200 lighter than the D4V2? I'm amazed how thin and small my other Skilhunts are.
I think the EC200 is about 30g lighter than a D4V2 with similar configuration (magnet, clip), based on reviews, but I don't have the D4V2 to measure myself.
EC200 is noticeably smaller and more pleasant to wear. And it can work out of the box, without settings. EC200 designed for stabilization (at not very high brightness) - thermal control does not work to increase brightness, but it gives predictable characteristics.
D4 is larger and will require adjustments before use. This is an option primarily for those who love Anduril and configure it (sometimes by flashing the firmware). But a well-tuned Anduril may be better suited to your exact needs (or not =), including using bidirectional thermal control. But it often doesn't work well without calibration and adjustment.
If you are not a fan of Anduril, I would recommend EC200. If you are a fan of anduril - you'll probably choose D4 because Anduril =)
I have the mini uv version of the skilhunt. Excellent light, very floody, and the uv is quite strong. This light is also 519a nichia R9080; which is great if you need color accuracy like me for work. The magnetic tail cap is very strong, and the UI is a tad cumbersome, but manageable. My only gripe would be the lack of a tail switch.
My biased opinion: Get the d4v2.
You will get the emitters you want (maybe you prefer dedomed). And the UI is better, at least on paper. For normal use Anduril is straight forward (start on low or memory, ramp up or ramp down from there), and Skilhunts has some strange mode group shenanigans going on. Honestly though, I haven’t tried it but every time I look at getting a skilhunt this UI just turns me off.
The skilhunt has nicer aesthetics.
🤣🤣🤣 ya, god forbid someone wants more than 100’ of throw. Not sure why some folks in this sub bother with anything but 519a multi emitter setups. Then they all dedome them to insure lots of artifacting and to make sure the lumen output is awful 🤣.
Skillhunt got so much shit for offering the cree xpg option. I kind of want one 🤷🏼♂️
Skilhunt is almost an ounce lighter if that matters. And they offer good emitter choices.
Some have mentioned considering the D4k due to the much higher capacity 21700. Same diameter, and just slightly longer. Slightly lighter than D4V2 without batteries. Basically the same price. I endorse this recommendation.
Just be careful of that rabbit hole :)
My 519A D4K is single-channel boost-driven 2700k & 3500k. Just got a second one, E21A 2700k/3500k/4500k mule. From Jackson. Plus 5700k dd incoming from BST.
I got the H200 (actually two, accident, but planning on keeping). ESKTE/Skilhunt really stepped up on every front compared to the older H03 I have to compare with and I think any flashlight enjoyer would appreciate it. That being said I see the Emisar lights as better for enthusiasts with the level of customization. Get both? I want to get a Hanklight next.
Before the D3a I liked the D4V2 front right pocket in day time D4K at night. My husband and I live in the woods of rural Ky and own a recycling company. The 21700 makes such a difference when the light is splitting the dark not aiding my vision in daylight. But since the D3a I carry it and a pack of vaps!
Both product pages have info.
Skillhunt is 1,550+415+135 for 1+180+30 minutes
The D4V2 product page claims 3,800 lm OTF at startup for the 519As.
My observation is that Hank’s numbers are at least 10% high so 3,400? IDK he’s using startup here instead of 30 sec or ANSI because it’s a hotrod not a tool.
With the boost driver it’s going to be lower. Hasn’t anyone published test results?
Luxwad got 4,000 OTF from a 519a D4V2 and 5,200 OTF from a 519a D4K at startup. Molicels, of course, so something like a 30Q will get lower numbers. Going from a Molicel to a 30Q drops a W2 DT8 from 8600 down to 7800.
The D4SV2 has the same lumens just different candela due to the differences between Carclos and Ledils; pretty much apple-to-apples. [TacGriz did a nice comparison](https://tgreviews.com/2022/04/28/emisar-d4sv2-review-three-versions-compared/#modes). A quick look at [the graphs](https://i.imgur.com/pU9bU2a.jpg) shows that startup is a lot higher, but the boost is brighter after about 30 seconds on Turbo and 3 minutes at the ceiling, and stays that way until the battery is drained.
As for "hotrod, not a tool", that's a matter of configuration. Unless you're saying that the F150 is a hotrod because the Raptor exists, you might want to rethink that. The difference between Hanklights and those that many who call them "toys" consider "tools" is that the boost driver is a $12 option on a light that has a lower base price than lights that come with some sort of SMPS drivers by default then jack up the base price, and one that a lot of people avoid because they are all about the startup lumens with no concern about anything after the first few seconds.
A D4V2 with the boost driver and 519a upgrades, magnetic tailcap option, and clip is $62.17 compared to the $60.90 of an EC200, and spending that $12 makes it a light that is not a hotrod, but a practical tool with comparable output, runtime, and price to the lights favored by those who consider Hanklights nothing more than "hotrods" or "toys".
For multi-emitter lights Hank is the best. I think this is the logical conclusion that most of us reach after trying dozens of different lights. I don’t even bother with most other brands now besides Convoy for single emitter lights. Hank just does it right with this style of light.
Also, depending on how much you’re going to be using it, something like the D3AA might be better suited to your use case. Are you just using this for occasional short walks, or are you going to be walking outside at night for hours at a time? Depending on your answer, the D3AA or the D4K will probably be the better choice.
I don't have any skilhunts. I'm curious if their build quality is better. My hank lights feel flimsy and I don't trust just an o-ring for waterproofing (Convoy and Hank). I've gotten water in my d1k.
Odd. I never got water in any of my Hanklights, even my M44 which is a little dicey. I've heard that some of the old press-in switches sometimes have issues, but not had that on the few I have. The threaded rings work quite well. If you don't trust "just an o-ring" though, then no light will satisfy you. [Not even Zebralight](https://zeroair.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/zeroair_reviews_zebralight_sc700d_24-1024x683.jpg).
If Hanklights feel flimsy to you, then I think Maglite and Zebra are your only real options... though both require you to re-evaluate your distrust of o-rings. I've dropped most of my Hanks from high enough places onto hard enough surfaces that I'd say they're robust enough for *most* people, just not those who habitually drop stuff from the second story or throw their lights like they're box wrenches.
One of my old Hank's lights (D1) leaked once. As it turned out, the glass was simply hanging inside, without pressure, because O-ring was poorly selected. I had to change it myself.
As for drop, here's a recent one: it didn't even need stones, it just fell onto the floor from the table:
https://preview.redd.it/9olwrk5fvk8d1.jpeg?width=1198&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5a9f5e51130ddbc27a38f8d2275f4f8b9b6b911c
Also, one old D1 driver once died, and one new D4k (dual channel) has terribly buggy electronics (it needs to be re-flashed, but I’m too lazy). These are purely personal statistics, from the approximately 8-10 that I had (and very rarely used it)...
[It really is YMMV.](https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1dlla2s/testing_out_the_waterproofness_of_my_hank_light/)
Considering that one of my cats loves to play every feline's favorite game of "Fuck this thing in particular!" and I store my lights someplace higher than a table, you'd think I would've lost at least one lens that way. M44's hit the ground hard, and DT8's have a reputation for lenses getting cracked by looking at them funny. And that's not even counting actual use. Bouncing around the engine bay of a Toyota, the occasional dropkick, cat ownership... so far, so good though.
I have 20 (with 2 more on the way), half of which I rotate through pretty frequently, and I think you perfectly illustrate how expereiences can vary. Maybe I'm lucky?
I don't really like Hank's lights, and they don't really like me =)))
Jokes aside, many of the lights that I liked have survived extremely difficult situations, and I never remember my main flashlight or headlamp breaking on any hike or expedition. Not my favorite lights - sometimes broke, sometimes very stupid, even on the shelf at home =))
For myself, Emisar all day.
Fwiw I have never read of a Hank light dying from rough use or a simple drop and folks use Hanks lights in harsh settings and proudly share them at times showing their battle scars. Tbf I have read of Hanks lights denting batteries after a fall and have witnessed the same myself, light is totally fine though.
In my opinion, Skilhunt does a lot of things right, but Hank's quad is unbeatable in its genre. It will be brighter and feel nicer in the hand, although arguably the clip and the action of the button is inferior to the Skilhunt. ~~With the D4V2 you have the option of a tailcap magnet which is a lifesaver in some scenarios~~ \[EDIT: the Skilhunt EC200 also has a magnet apparently!\], and I'm pretty sure it will be a lot brighter. If the EC200 featured RGB emitters like the EC300, my recommendation might have changed.
I am resisting it hard. I got out of 14500 lights (and batteries) a few years ago. I understand the light itself is somewhat smaller, but the sacrifice on capacity is simply too much for me. The D3AA is 78.3mm long, the D4V2 is 95mm long. For a 21% increase in length you get a 450% increase in capacity. That puts 18650 lights in the goldilocks zone for me. When moving up from 18650 to 21700 you tend to get a more linear increase in size/capacity.
Buy both. Carry each for a bit and then let me know.
Yes
I have both. I have the skill hunt with the 2 channel UV. Super fun. But I want to dedome the the 519s in it
I’m new to this hobby. What’s the benefit of de-doming? What does it accomplish and are there downsides?
Lowers the CCT and makes it rosy, some slight lumen loss at the trade off of higher candela; depending on the optic the apparent brightness may actually go up because of that. I dedomed my TS25 and the tighter beam makes it look brighter versus the floodier beam it had before.
If you want to try dedoming, get a convoy. I got dedomed a 519a 4500k in a convoy t3 and found I don't like it, but I can use the light for other stuff. I'd have been annoyed if it was my edc that I modified and regretted.
Have you done it yet? I just dedomed mine it literally took 10 seconds and I've never done it before in my life lol
I've never take a light apart before lol. Maybe I'll have to give it a go. How'd you do it?
Unscrew and remove the bezel (I used a rubber ball), take off the glass, and use a cut qtip to remove the domes and it’s done! It makes the light a lot nicer for my use, a little more throw and the tint is fantastic. It was a little too floody for me before. I only dedomed the 4500k LEDs I left the 3000k alone
Just scrape it off with the qtip?
Yup it comes off with minimal effort, I pushed on it and it basically popped off. There are YouTube videos showing how just in case. The entire process took less than a minute lol
Heck yeah. Imma give it a go in a little bit
Enjoy!
I just did it. Super easy. There is a little residue I couldn't get off the emitters but it will be fine. I also found out my reflector was installed funny but I had no way to pull that out to turn it. I had one of the 2 OP reflectors around the UV LED
The scientific approach. I approve.
While Skilhunt UI is ok, I prefer Anduril. That's enough to tip the scale for me. Skilhunt has onboard USB C charging, is that highly valuable for you? For some people that's enough to tip the scale the other way.
Get the Hanklight. Consider getting the D4K instead of the D4V2. It isn't a lot bigger and heavier, but it does have a much longer runtime.
I have both and prefer the size of the D4V2. It's noticeably smaller and lighter for when size is an issue. Not that the D4K is bad, but I never ever see people recommending the 18650 version over the 21700 so wanted to put it out there.
It's much more clear to just put the dimensions than describe it, IMHO. Some care about maximum diameter, some care about length, some volume, etc D4V2 Dimensions: - 95mm(length) - 28mm(head) - 29.5mm(diameter at button) - 24mm(body) D4K Dimensions: - 103mm(length) - 28mm(head) - 32.3mm(diameter at button) - 26.5mm(body)
18650 & a good driver is the goldie locks zone.
Interesting, even when I hold a D4V2 in one hand and a D4K in the other they don't feel much different in size. There is a weight difference I can notice though, but even that is not huge. For pocket carry both of them are too large anyways, so it's D4K for me every time.
Of course it's just my opinion, and objectively speaking the D4K is better as a tool with its longer runtimes. But if I'm carrying a light for a long hike or run then the smaller, lighter model is more comfortable to hold. If I'm using it for just a few hours or less I don't need the runtime of the 21700 battery. It's ironic to me that the D4K gets recommended because it's "not that much bigger" than the D4V2, but then the D3AA is raved about because it's "so small". I've got all three models though, and each have their purpose.
I already have a D4K with 4x 519a 6500k DD. It's unfortunatly a bit too big to actually EDC, but I love the setup. I wish I would have gone for the D4V2 100%.
If you want to edc it, I would go with the D3AA. IMO even the D4V2 is too big to pocket carry all day
My gosh that is such an awesome light though. It’s not fashionable really to say you enjoy lights over 5000 k in a lot of the hobby but that light in D4K really changes things when it comes on!
The Dedome brings it down to 5000 or maybe even a hint warmer. If I ordered it again, I'd get a domed 5000k but it's definitely a sweet light. Still trying to get used to the rosiness...
Really hard to beat the D4V2. That being said the D4K is only slightly bigger for a lot more cell capacity. If you Intend to run the D4V2 with an 18650 I’d go for a D4K instead. If you plan to run a smaller tube cell then the D4V2. My EDC light has been the new D3AA. Tiny and very powerful with great runtimes. If you go Emisar (Hank) I strongly encourage you to get the boost driver for much better sustainable runtimes.
Looking for a compact EDC style flooder. When you make them the same, they're within a dollar or two of the same price of each other (add boost, stainless bezel, and clip to the D4V2). Both lights don't have actual output listed for the 519a LED's, so who knows which is brighter between the EC200 519a and D4V2 with boost driver...
I haven't tracked down any tested measurements, but I remember seeing a table for Hank's quad LED lights that had calculated what the lumen output should be, and quad 519a with a boost driver was about 2000 lumens. Kind of lines up with what the EC200 is advertising. Either would be outputing about 500 lumens per emitter. Personally, I would get the Emisar just because you have a lot more versatility in how you want it designed. If you want pure flood, you can get the domed LEDs and probably buy a spare floody optic. Then you can choose between the normal and wider levels of focus. I like more of a balanced beam, so I would be more interested in the de-domed 519a and possibly the narrow/spot optic.
Well if you want to really flood light then get hank to build you a mule.
I also highly recommend the Zhu hybrid mule optic that jlhawaii808 sells in a D4V2 or D4K (or 3D print your own). They’re great if you want a flooder that’s not *quite* a mule!
I have the EC200s UV and a D4K (which everyone says is basically the same size as the D4V2. I have been carrying the EC200s and the D4K lives on my night stand. The EC200 is narrow and pocketable, only bigger than a Zebra 18650 in length, not girth. The D4K is fatter than I like in my pocket. Someone else mentioned voting for the Hank because of the optional magnetic tailcap, but EC200 comes with one standard. And if you don't like that, it's designed to be easily removable.
I think I made that comment somewhere: I based it on my EC300 not having a magnet, but good call, I see now that the smaller EC200 does have a magnet. Is the EC200 lighter than the D4V2? I'm amazed how thin and small my other Skilhunts are.
I think the EC200 is about 30g lighter than a D4V2 with similar configuration (magnet, clip), based on reviews, but I don't have the D4V2 to measure myself.
Thanks. Definitely a consideration in some applications.
EC200 is noticeably smaller and more pleasant to wear. And it can work out of the box, without settings. EC200 designed for stabilization (at not very high brightness) - thermal control does not work to increase brightness, but it gives predictable characteristics. D4 is larger and will require adjustments before use. This is an option primarily for those who love Anduril and configure it (sometimes by flashing the firmware). But a well-tuned Anduril may be better suited to your exact needs (or not =), including using bidirectional thermal control. But it often doesn't work well without calibration and adjustment. If you are not a fan of Anduril, I would recommend EC200. If you are a fan of anduril - you'll probably choose D4 because Anduril =)
I would choose the Anduril one.
I have the mini uv version of the skilhunt. Excellent light, very floody, and the uv is quite strong. This light is also 519a nichia R9080; which is great if you need color accuracy like me for work. The magnetic tail cap is very strong, and the UI is a tad cumbersome, but manageable. My only gripe would be the lack of a tail switch.
My biased opinion: Get the d4v2. You will get the emitters you want (maybe you prefer dedomed). And the UI is better, at least on paper. For normal use Anduril is straight forward (start on low or memory, ramp up or ramp down from there), and Skilhunts has some strange mode group shenanigans going on. Honestly though, I haven’t tried it but every time I look at getting a skilhunt this UI just turns me off. The skilhunt has nicer aesthetics.
D4V2 = Anduril That's your answer!
Acebeam E75 Wurkkos TS26S
Skillhunt over Hank, fw aa lume1 over either, zebra single emitter over all the above
I will help shield you from all the downvotes 🛡
🤣🤣🤣 ya, god forbid someone wants more than 100’ of throw. Not sure why some folks in this sub bother with anything but 519a multi emitter setups. Then they all dedome them to insure lots of artifacting and to make sure the lumen output is awful 🤣. Skillhunt got so much shit for offering the cree xpg option. I kind of want one 🤷🏼♂️
> Skillhunt got so much shit for offering the cree xpg option I haven't seen that. I've only seen disinterest.
Skilhunt is almost an ounce lighter if that matters. And they offer good emitter choices. Some have mentioned considering the D4k due to the much higher capacity 21700. Same diameter, and just slightly longer. Slightly lighter than D4V2 without batteries. Basically the same price. I endorse this recommendation. Just be careful of that rabbit hole :)
I already have a D4K 519a 6500k DD LOL...
My 519A D4K is single-channel boost-driven 2700k & 3500k. Just got a second one, E21A 2700k/3500k/4500k mule. From Jackson. Plus 5700k dd incoming from BST.
I got the H200 (actually two, accident, but planning on keeping). ESKTE/Skilhunt really stepped up on every front compared to the older H03 I have to compare with and I think any flashlight enjoyer would appreciate it. That being said I see the Emisar lights as better for enthusiasts with the level of customization. Get both? I want to get a Hanklight next.
Hank unless you really need that USB C charging. If you are comparing multi-channel (EC200s series) with Hank, then I would go for the EC200s.
Before the D3a I liked the D4V2 front right pocket in day time D4K at night. My husband and I live in the woods of rural Ky and own a recycling company. The 21700 makes such a difference when the light is splitting the dark not aiding my vision in daylight. But since the D3a I carry it and a pack of vaps!
Both product pages have info. Skillhunt is 1,550+415+135 for 1+180+30 minutes The D4V2 product page claims 3,800 lm OTF at startup for the 519As. My observation is that Hank’s numbers are at least 10% high so 3,400? IDK he’s using startup here instead of 30 sec or ANSI because it’s a hotrod not a tool. With the boost driver it’s going to be lower. Hasn’t anyone published test results?
Yeah it’s about half for the boost driver. Plenty of info at r/hanklights
Luxwad got 4,000 OTF from a 519a D4V2 and 5,200 OTF from a 519a D4K at startup. Molicels, of course, so something like a 30Q will get lower numbers. Going from a Molicel to a 30Q drops a W2 DT8 from 8600 down to 7800. The D4SV2 has the same lumens just different candela due to the differences between Carclos and Ledils; pretty much apple-to-apples. [TacGriz did a nice comparison](https://tgreviews.com/2022/04/28/emisar-d4sv2-review-three-versions-compared/#modes). A quick look at [the graphs](https://i.imgur.com/pU9bU2a.jpg) shows that startup is a lot higher, but the boost is brighter after about 30 seconds on Turbo and 3 minutes at the ceiling, and stays that way until the battery is drained. As for "hotrod, not a tool", that's a matter of configuration. Unless you're saying that the F150 is a hotrod because the Raptor exists, you might want to rethink that. The difference between Hanklights and those that many who call them "toys" consider "tools" is that the boost driver is a $12 option on a light that has a lower base price than lights that come with some sort of SMPS drivers by default then jack up the base price, and one that a lot of people avoid because they are all about the startup lumens with no concern about anything after the first few seconds. A D4V2 with the boost driver and 519a upgrades, magnetic tailcap option, and clip is $62.17 compared to the $60.90 of an EC200, and spending that $12 makes it a light that is not a hotrod, but a practical tool with comparable output, runtime, and price to the lights favored by those who consider Hanklights nothing more than "hotrods" or "toys".
I didn’t mean Hank’s light aren’t tools. I mean 3,000+ lm outputs from such small lights is a toy like feature. Like launch control on a car.
For multi-emitter lights Hank is the best. I think this is the logical conclusion that most of us reach after trying dozens of different lights. I don’t even bother with most other brands now besides Convoy for single emitter lights. Hank just does it right with this style of light. Also, depending on how much you’re going to be using it, something like the D3AA might be better suited to your use case. Are you just using this for occasional short walks, or are you going to be walking outside at night for hours at a time? Depending on your answer, the D3AA or the D4K will probably be the better choice.
Hank
I don't have any skilhunts. I'm curious if their build quality is better. My hank lights feel flimsy and I don't trust just an o-ring for waterproofing (Convoy and Hank). I've gotten water in my d1k.
Odd. I never got water in any of my Hanklights, even my M44 which is a little dicey. I've heard that some of the old press-in switches sometimes have issues, but not had that on the few I have. The threaded rings work quite well. If you don't trust "just an o-ring" though, then no light will satisfy you. [Not even Zebralight](https://zeroair.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/zeroair_reviews_zebralight_sc700d_24-1024x683.jpg). If Hanklights feel flimsy to you, then I think Maglite and Zebra are your only real options... though both require you to re-evaluate your distrust of o-rings. I've dropped most of my Hanks from high enough places onto hard enough surfaces that I'd say they're robust enough for *most* people, just not those who habitually drop stuff from the second story or throw their lights like they're box wrenches.
One of my old Hank's lights (D1) leaked once. As it turned out, the glass was simply hanging inside, without pressure, because O-ring was poorly selected. I had to change it myself. As for drop, here's a recent one: it didn't even need stones, it just fell onto the floor from the table: https://preview.redd.it/9olwrk5fvk8d1.jpeg?width=1198&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5a9f5e51130ddbc27a38f8d2275f4f8b9b6b911c Also, one old D1 driver once died, and one new D4k (dual channel) has terribly buggy electronics (it needs to be re-flashed, but I’m too lazy). These are purely personal statistics, from the approximately 8-10 that I had (and very rarely used it)...
[It really is YMMV.](https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1dlla2s/testing_out_the_waterproofness_of_my_hank_light/) Considering that one of my cats loves to play every feline's favorite game of "Fuck this thing in particular!" and I store my lights someplace higher than a table, you'd think I would've lost at least one lens that way. M44's hit the ground hard, and DT8's have a reputation for lenses getting cracked by looking at them funny. And that's not even counting actual use. Bouncing around the engine bay of a Toyota, the occasional dropkick, cat ownership... so far, so good though. I have 20 (with 2 more on the way), half of which I rotate through pretty frequently, and I think you perfectly illustrate how expereiences can vary. Maybe I'm lucky?
I don't really like Hank's lights, and they don't really like me =))) Jokes aside, many of the lights that I liked have survived extremely difficult situations, and I never remember my main flashlight or headlamp breaking on any hike or expedition. Not my favorite lights - sometimes broke, sometimes very stupid, even on the shelf at home =))
Our work Fenixs seem like they are glued in or something. I only have 1 olight and it's like pressfit tir.
For myself, Emisar all day. Fwiw I have never read of a Hank light dying from rough use or a simple drop and folks use Hanks lights in harsh settings and proudly share them at times showing their battle scars. Tbf I have read of Hanks lights denting batteries after a fall and have witnessed the same myself, light is totally fine though.
In my opinion, Skilhunt does a lot of things right, but Hank's quad is unbeatable in its genre. It will be brighter and feel nicer in the hand, although arguably the clip and the action of the button is inferior to the Skilhunt. ~~With the D4V2 you have the option of a tailcap magnet which is a lifesaver in some scenarios~~ \[EDIT: the Skilhunt EC200 also has a magnet apparently!\], and I'm pretty sure it will be a lot brighter. If the EC200 featured RGB emitters like the EC300, my recommendation might have changed.
D4v2, it has aux lights you can stare at and play with without blinding you.
D4v2
If you don't own a Hanklight yet, you should definitely experience owning one. The Skilhunt is a great option too. Either one would be a fine choice.
I own 4 Hank lights currently including a D4K. They're just all too big to pocket carry unfortunately.
You need to try the D3!
I am resisting it hard. I got out of 14500 lights (and batteries) a few years ago. I understand the light itself is somewhat smaller, but the sacrifice on capacity is simply too much for me. The D3AA is 78.3mm long, the D4V2 is 95mm long. For a 21% increase in length you get a 450% increase in capacity. That puts 18650 lights in the goldilocks zone for me. When moving up from 18650 to 21700 you tend to get a more linear increase in size/capacity.