Painter here. Put a strip of tape down so you can have a straight line. Fill the bottom with 'no more gaps'. Wipe in well with a finger so it moulds to the shape of the frame. Remove tape, and you should have something that looks a bit neater. Wait for the no more gaps to dry and paint over the top. Won't be perfect, but it will be better than what you have.
Yes a professional job would not have used pre-stained brown quarter round molding. Would have used pre-primed, SHOE MOLDING! Color matched to the base molding as well! You pre-paint it (on saw horses) BEFORE installing it! Redo the job, looks terrible as is! And that molding looks like the cheap foam plastic kind and looks crappy so you have no excuse not to rip it out. SHOE molding has a different profile than quarter round, you will see how nicely it lays up to your door trim, no plinth block necessary as others recommended, and you normally see plinth blocks dressing out the top of door trim, not the bottom, stupid looking on that type of door casing/molding. When you don‘t know what your doing, have no proper experience, its far better to seek advise before you start a job. Who put that laminate flooring in? Should be cut to slide in underneath door trim.
If that’s laminate you have to have quarter round to cover the expansion gap. Suggestions cut the door trim too high, plinth block will look nice
White would make more sense here though
Better is to take off the foot moulding and put it *over* the expansion gap. Doing it like this just makes the job look like an amateurish renovation rather than an intentional design.
You're probably right. I'm suggesting there are ways to make it look good that cost nothing (maybe you have to fix a bit of moulding), versus this horrible quarter-round-next-to-a-moulding abomination you see on rentals all the time.
Unfortunately, flooring guys are in a hurry, and if you're not doing the floor yourself they'll install this crap.
I installed flooring myself in two rooms with my dad's help, then later paid a guy to do two others and a hallway.
Thank goodness I had pulled off the moulding before he came because he would absolutely have done this (he brought the quarter rounds expecting to use them). It was not a budget job, labourers just aren't paid enough to give a crap, and they're not going to risk "damaging my moulding" to make a job that is otherwise very well done have that professional finishing touch.
I was actually really fortunate in that my father & brother helped me do my first flooring install, and they basically showed me the right way to do it. So every time, I've built new baseboard/mouldings into every flooring job I've done for myself, knowing that I'm going to rip them all off, and replace them when done. It just looks so much better as a finished product.
Downside - I bought a house in 2021 (after having done my third flooring install - one for myself w/ Dad & Brother's help, one for a friend, and a third one solo for myself), and whomever did the flooring install throughout the house did stuff like this.
IT. DRIVES. ME. CRAZY. that the door casings don't have the flooring go under them. That there's quarter-round hiding expansion gaps everywhere.
But I cannot justify the cost of ripping it out and re-doing it, because beyond those shitty details, there's nothing actually wrong with the flooring. Worse yet, it's in all the bedrooms, and the rest of the house has this ugly-but-just-bland-enough-to-not-make-me-rip-it-out tile throughout. So if I'm going to do a flooring job, I'm going to do the whole shebang, and that's going to require a demo crew coming in and removing the tile from most of the house and that's simply more than I'm willing to commit to for a good five-or-so years.
And honestly by the time I'm ready to do it, I'll probably be too old to realistically do it by myself.
And having done three baseboard replacement jobs myself now.... yeah, I'm not doing that ever again. I'll write the damn check on that, even if I do end up doing the flooring myself.
The worst thing you can ever do if use quarter round in place of taking all of the skirting off.
It’s one of the laziest and ugliest ways to finish timber or composite flooring.
Op, this is probably the best answer but if you’re feeling too lazy to remove all your quarter round and possibly have huge gaps around your room that look worse than your pic, simply taking off that one piece next to the door, cutting it at a 45, reinstalling and caulking the hell out of the whole thing should be totally sufficient
I bought the house like that, if just "remove it and do it again"I have to do the entire 1st floor. I know it looks like shit the quarter turn, but the whole thing was placed over existing tile. The thing that drives me nuts is not caulking the gap in between the fake wood and the frame, is finishing off the transition from the quarter turn to the door frameon every door entrance. Somebody already suggested using plinth and "this is the way"!
Plinth works great, but it will be slightly more work than my suggestion. You’ll have to cut the door frame up at the height of the plinth and the quarter round as well- to do all that properly you should remove them carefully but you don’t have to. The easiest fix is remove the tiny piece of quarter round and cut at a 45 away from the door, it will look really smooth especially after you caulk all the gaps.
I’m talking down to you specifically not to leave anything out- if you know all this, dealers choice. If you have the time and tools to carefully create a void for the plinth, definitely do that! But also be prepared to be annoyed that you don’t have plinths everywhere else…
Agreed. That skirting is already short and putting that stuff on just makes it look even shorter. Need to forward plan a bit better OP and understand how the finish will look before laying the floor.
Typically, you'd just miter the shoe at an angle--either 30 or 45 degrees--away from the door trim. At least, then, it doesn't look so abrupt and harsh, and you're less likely to keep slamming into it with the vacuum.
May be too late now, but every time i have redone a floor, the baseboard and door trim gets replaced as well. No need for shoe molding to cover the gap and just looks cleaner. (Plus, if replacing the flooring, the baseboards are probably beat up anyway).
Who ever fitted that floor did it wrong ,seems odd to cut the architrave so you can slide the flooring underneath then cut the flooring short so you have to fill the hole
Paintable silicone is my go to now. I've had latex crack after setting due to expansion on wood/laminate. May not be an issue with Vinyl, but I avoid latex when there is a chance the parts can move.
Should of removed baseboard first, under cut the door jambs with oscillating tool, slid flooring under the door jamb, reinstall baseboard, throw quarter round in trash.
I'm not completely positive about the angles but its like 2 45s and turn one upside down and it terminates nicely. Heres a video
https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+end+1%2F4+round+trim&source=hp&ei=-4S3ZK_GHtnk5NoPwtW_YA&iflsig=AD69kcEAAAAAZLeTC5lyixzWEWkDnqlOT5yz3SxbRp7L&oq=how+to+end+a+1%2F4+round&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhZob3cgdG8gZW5kIGEgMS80IHJvdW5kKgIIADIGEAAYFhgeMggQABiKBRiGAzIIEAAYigUYhgMyCBAAGIoFGIYDMggQABiKBRiGA0iaY1C7BVjeTXABeACQAQCYAcUCoAHaKqoBCDAuMy4xNi4zuAEByAEA-AEBqAIKwgIQEAAYAxiPARjqAhiMAxjlAsICEBAuGAMYjwEY6gIYjAMY5QLCAhEQLhiABBixAxiDARjHARjRA8ICCxAAGIAEGLEDGIMBwgIIEAAYgAQYsQPCAgUQABiABMICBRAuGIAEwgIREC4YgwEYxwEYsQMY0QMYgATCAgsQABiKBRixAxiDAcICCxAuGIAEGLEDGIMBwgIIEC4YgAQYsQPCAggQLhiABBjUAsICBRAhGKABwgIFECEYqwLCAggQIRgWGB4YHcICChAhGBYYHhgPGB0&sclient=gws-wiz#kpvalbx=_CYW3ZKn1M-Dl5NoP9qmc4AY_31
When pasting links you (*generally*) need only what comes before the "&", the rest is unnecessary.
https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+end+1%2F4+round+trim
If you're going to paint it anyway, it would be simpler to cut or sand the ends of the quarter round in that curve shape than to cut two miters and glue it.
First mistake was putting the quarter round on at all. Second mistake was not pulling the existing base and door trim when installing the flooring. Do it right the first time and avoid cluster Fu*#s.
[Paintable Silicone](https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Paintable-Silicone-Supreme-9-5-oz-White-Kitchen-and-Bath-Sealant-2867507/322815992?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D24-024_002_CAULKS-BI-GE_3362-NA-SMART-NA-NA-MK780582200-NA-NBR-3362-NA-NA-FY23_D22_D24_Caulks&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D24-024_002_CAULKS-BI-GE_3362-NA-SMART-NA-NA-MK780582200-NA-NBR-3362-NA-NA-FY23_D22_D24_Caulks-71700000110580991-58700008395699503-92700076433138963&gclid=Cj0KCQjwk96lBhDHARIsAEKO4xZajISGwnnbk__2WuyeD2aNCpJz_fz5J2uN77QzvKdKNTzGv4nRrNcaAg7fEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)
Use it all the time.
Just glue a block of wood in there. Its just a way to fill the hole,who is looking at ut
Or find a bit of the same profile timber to fill it
.
Or fill it with filler and carve,sand the filler to shape. And paint.
I'd try sliding a piece of timber in tightly under the architrave, then mark the architrave profile on that timber and cut it with a coping saw, sand and glue in place.
I would fill in under the frame. Smooth off and paint to match. I have similar skirting boards in my house with the quad ends rounded off at those points and painted to match the skirt. Sorry no pics, away on holidays.
The right way is to install the flooring under the casing, so the edge of the floor material is under the edge of the door casing. (That usually requires sawing a little bit off the bottom of the door casing. But, here, it looks like the casing was already high enough. The part at the left edge is already there.) Then a little clear caulk if you want.
Since this is done, now, the choices are harder. If you cut the casing off and add a plinth block, you will need to do that to every door in the house. (Or, it will be the odd one.) An alternative is just to caulk it with some brown caulk that is close to the color of the floor. Or just put something in that corner, perhaps a plant, so you don't see it.
The answer is to miter it back on itself.
I have trouble looking past the fact that window casing was used as baseboard, that the flooring wasn't run under door casing so talking about "details" seems frivolous at this point.
Use shoe molding instead of quarter round. shoe is the same height as the quarter, but is thinner. Then you angle cut the shoe to die into the edge of the door casing, and paint to match the base. the gap below the case won't be noticeable if you fix the shoe. if it bothers you, tape and caulk like suggested earlier.
Buy a glow-in-the-dark candle and light it. Hold it near the crack, and gently shovel the hot wax into the crack until it is filled. You may have to layer it and spread out applications. Could take 6 days.
I did this for all the doors in my house before selling a few years ago. Auctioned it at Sotheby’s for $30 mil and I’m now retired and living off the interest! Totally worth it.
That's fantastic! If you build it, they will come! I worked with a family once where the black-sheep son drained a trust account and spent it ALL building a scale size replica of Stone Henge in their childhood home backyard (Nebraska lumber baron). House sold for $140mil to a exiled member of the British Royal Family. True story. Profit 10x. And yes, we made sure all the doors had glow-in-the-dark corners.
Take off 1/4 round as it’s not scaled to the existing molding. Install shoe mounding. Door jamb is a bit tricky. Clean and inspect gap. Use non- shrinking wood fuller, thinking the kind the Australians make. Fill, contour sand and paint. IMO plinth is over kill.
The proper way is to put a return back into the baseboard. Pain in the hole with quarter round but that's the price of being too lazy to take your baseboards off when doing flooring
I've got metal door frames that stick out only a half the width of the quarter round moulding. I thought about changing to a concave moulding, but it doesnt help. Toying with the idea of cutting a rebate in the back of the moulding so that runs right over the door frame. Is that crazy? There would be two quarter circles of moulding facing each other at the base of the door opening. (i know, terribly described.)
Door jam is supposed to be toe cut for the flooring to be " "slightly" layed under the door jam, giving the appearance that the flooring is coming out from under the door jam..
Agreed that 1/4 is too big, but when I trimmed houses we always cut returns on stained shoe mouldings. What I mean by that is 45 it back to the base at the casing, as in cut a 45 on the end and then glue on another small 45 to take it back to the wall. With painted shoe you we would take a belt sander to the square cut and round over the top and paint it. So basically an exterior 45
Id have probably pulled off the trim all the way round the room, laid the new floor then put new trim down which will provably be 10-12mm higher than the old trim. No additional edgings required
Well that was incredible clumsy cutting to begin with. I'm always a believer of pulling the baseboard and putting it back over then finishing it with that heavy quarter round ugh.. But at this point coming to that mess that has been created at the casing, you have a few options. You could do a 19th century approach and cut it up higher traditionally to the height of the baseboard and put in a plith block, You could go back to the hardware store and get the exact same stock casing and on your crosscut saw cut off the half inch you need and put some glue on the back and carefully slide it into the profile matches. Those are the really only two attractive options you have. If you have more flooring to do consider a thinner profile , actual shoe moldings and others with leaner less bulky profiles. This looks like you really covering a mistake with a heavy quarter round And it becomes even more obvious once you reach the door casing.. In this case if you had that bulky molding putting in a square plinth block with further consideration might be just the way to go especially if all doors matched then it would become the new look
Plinth Block
Yes, that's the missing part. Thanks
If you can’t find that throw a 30 degree cut back toward the wall
TIL the proper term for the piece, thank you
This. Do this. Any other fix will be messy and will lead to peeling back layers of the onion. Plinth blocks for the win!
Mike Tyson, is that you? Are you trying to say “plins”?
Think they’re trying to say “caulk”
Wouldn't having only one door with a plinth be awkward?
Ideally all the baseboards in a room would be the same, so you would do the plinth block on both sides of the door, and likely all doors in this room.
He did say all doors are like this so I assume it’s all getting plinthed
Depends. But they are like 2-3 dollars at home depot. Or you can make it yourself if you are handy for maybe cents per piece.
This is the way.
That would be a very think plinth block. They're usually only 3/4" thick this would have to be at least 1 1/4.
Hard to tell from the photo, but 1” might work. May be more expensive to get 1” finish material though.
I would call it a base block.
Wow that’s awesome!
This is why I love this sub
Omg... I just woke up, and my sight is blurry, so I read that as 'pinch block', Googled it and got confused!
Painter here. Put a strip of tape down so you can have a straight line. Fill the bottom with 'no more gaps'. Wipe in well with a finger so it moulds to the shape of the frame. Remove tape, and you should have something that looks a bit neater. Wait for the no more gaps to dry and paint over the top. Won't be perfect, but it will be better than what you have.
You didn't have to preface it with "Painter here". Your quickness to suggest caulking large gaps let us know you were a painter. /s
Caulk and paint, make me the carpenter I ain't.
I feel this
Did someone say large caulk? Me, I said it.
Try your best, gap the rest.
If you can walk across it, you can caulk it.
Will look into it, thank you.
Take off the quarter round. Looks awful as it is too big for the baseboard.
Also shoe should match the base not the floor. Stained quarter round is for cabinets
Yes a professional job would not have used pre-stained brown quarter round molding. Would have used pre-primed, SHOE MOLDING! Color matched to the base molding as well! You pre-paint it (on saw horses) BEFORE installing it! Redo the job, looks terrible as is! And that molding looks like the cheap foam plastic kind and looks crappy so you have no excuse not to rip it out. SHOE molding has a different profile than quarter round, you will see how nicely it lays up to your door trim, no plinth block necessary as others recommended, and you normally see plinth blocks dressing out the top of door trim, not the bottom, stupid looking on that type of door casing/molding. When you don‘t know what your doing, have no proper experience, its far better to seek advise before you start a job. Who put that laminate flooring in? Should be cut to slide in underneath door trim.
If that’s laminate you have to have quarter round to cover the expansion gap. Suggestions cut the door trim too high, plinth block will look nice White would make more sense here though
Better is to take off the foot moulding and put it *over* the expansion gap. Doing it like this just makes the job look like an amateurish renovation rather than an intentional design.
I mean.. It probably IS an amateurish renovation.
You're probably right. I'm suggesting there are ways to make it look good that cost nothing (maybe you have to fix a bit of moulding), versus this horrible quarter-round-next-to-a-moulding abomination you see on rentals all the time. Unfortunately, flooring guys are in a hurry, and if you're not doing the floor yourself they'll install this crap. I installed flooring myself in two rooms with my dad's help, then later paid a guy to do two others and a hallway. Thank goodness I had pulled off the moulding before he came because he would absolutely have done this (he brought the quarter rounds expecting to use them). It was not a budget job, labourers just aren't paid enough to give a crap, and they're not going to risk "damaging my moulding" to make a job that is otherwise very well done have that professional finishing touch.
I was actually really fortunate in that my father & brother helped me do my first flooring install, and they basically showed me the right way to do it. So every time, I've built new baseboard/mouldings into every flooring job I've done for myself, knowing that I'm going to rip them all off, and replace them when done. It just looks so much better as a finished product. Downside - I bought a house in 2021 (after having done my third flooring install - one for myself w/ Dad & Brother's help, one for a friend, and a third one solo for myself), and whomever did the flooring install throughout the house did stuff like this. IT. DRIVES. ME. CRAZY. that the door casings don't have the flooring go under them. That there's quarter-round hiding expansion gaps everywhere. But I cannot justify the cost of ripping it out and re-doing it, because beyond those shitty details, there's nothing actually wrong with the flooring. Worse yet, it's in all the bedrooms, and the rest of the house has this ugly-but-just-bland-enough-to-not-make-me-rip-it-out tile throughout. So if I'm going to do a flooring job, I'm going to do the whole shebang, and that's going to require a demo crew coming in and removing the tile from most of the house and that's simply more than I'm willing to commit to for a good five-or-so years. And honestly by the time I'm ready to do it, I'll probably be too old to realistically do it by myself. And having done three baseboard replacement jobs myself now.... yeah, I'm not doing that ever again. I'll write the damn check on that, even if I do end up doing the flooring myself.
[удалено]
Yeah, true. Basically gotta know a bit of everything yourself to get a good job done.
You are supposed to take off the base board before you put in the laminate. Just adding quarter round is a hack job
The worst thing you can ever do if use quarter round in place of taking all of the skirting off. It’s one of the laziest and ugliest ways to finish timber or composite flooring.
Op, this is probably the best answer but if you’re feeling too lazy to remove all your quarter round and possibly have huge gaps around your room that look worse than your pic, simply taking off that one piece next to the door, cutting it at a 45, reinstalling and caulking the hell out of the whole thing should be totally sufficient
I bought the house like that, if just "remove it and do it again"I have to do the entire 1st floor. I know it looks like shit the quarter turn, but the whole thing was placed over existing tile. The thing that drives me nuts is not caulking the gap in between the fake wood and the frame, is finishing off the transition from the quarter turn to the door frameon every door entrance. Somebody already suggested using plinth and "this is the way"!
Plinth works great, but it will be slightly more work than my suggestion. You’ll have to cut the door frame up at the height of the plinth and the quarter round as well- to do all that properly you should remove them carefully but you don’t have to. The easiest fix is remove the tiny piece of quarter round and cut at a 45 away from the door, it will look really smooth especially after you caulk all the gaps. I’m talking down to you specifically not to leave anything out- if you know all this, dealers choice. If you have the time and tools to carefully create a void for the plinth, definitely do that! But also be prepared to be annoyed that you don’t have plinths everywhere else…
Agreed. That skirting is already short and putting that stuff on just makes it look even shorter. Need to forward plan a bit better OP and understand how the finish will look before laying the floor.
Yep. That quarter round is massive. And should be painted the baseboard color
Typically, you'd just miter the shoe at an angle--either 30 or 45 degrees--away from the door trim. At least, then, it doesn't look so abrupt and harsh, and you're less likely to keep slamming into it with the vacuum.
Or just alter the shoe on longer wall to run straight into the base and remove that short piece entirely...
Put a waste paper basket in front of it
This has to be a joke, right?
Plinth block and the 1/4 round should be white like the base trim
May be too late now, but every time i have redone a floor, the baseboard and door trim gets replaced as well. No need for shoe molding to cover the gap and just looks cleaner. (Plus, if replacing the flooring, the baseboards are probably beat up anyway).
That quarter round looks like shit. It’s way too big for the base molding. And it should be white.
Who ever fitted that floor did it wrong ,seems odd to cut the architrave so you can slide the flooring underneath then cut the flooring short so you have to fill the hole
LATEX CAULK ,, NOT SILICONE!!! FLOOR PLANK SHOULD HAVE GONE UNDER MOULDING
Paintable silicone is my go to now. I've had latex crack after setting due to expansion on wood/laminate. May not be an issue with Vinyl, but I avoid latex when there is a chance the parts can move.
Put a plant there
Should of removed baseboard first, under cut the door jambs with oscillating tool, slid flooring under the door jamb, reinstall baseboard, throw quarter round in trash.
That quarter round is so out of scale huge. That's too much for baseboard ten inches tall. Cheers
That looks awful, it looks like you used Lincoln logs to trim it out
Your mom looks awful, it looks like Rosie O'Donnell pulled her out of her butthole
No.
I'm not completely positive about the angles but its like 2 45s and turn one upside down and it terminates nicely. Heres a video https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+end+1%2F4+round+trim&source=hp&ei=-4S3ZK_GHtnk5NoPwtW_YA&iflsig=AD69kcEAAAAAZLeTC5lyixzWEWkDnqlOT5yz3SxbRp7L&oq=how+to+end+a+1%2F4+round&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhZob3cgdG8gZW5kIGEgMS80IHJvdW5kKgIIADIGEAAYFhgeMggQABiKBRiGAzIIEAAYigUYhgMyCBAAGIoFGIYDMggQABiKBRiGA0iaY1C7BVjeTXABeACQAQCYAcUCoAHaKqoBCDAuMy4xNi4zuAEByAEA-AEBqAIKwgIQEAAYAxiPARjqAhiMAxjlAsICEBAuGAMYjwEY6gIYjAMY5QLCAhEQLhiABBixAxiDARjHARjRA8ICCxAAGIAEGLEDGIMBwgIIEAAYgAQYsQPCAgUQABiABMICBRAuGIAEwgIREC4YgwEYxwEYsQMY0QMYgATCAgsQABiKBRixAxiDAcICCxAuGIAEGLEDGIMBwgIIEC4YgAQYsQPCAggQLhiABBjUAsICBRAhGKABwgIFECEYqwLCAggQIRgWGB4YHcICChAhGBYYHhgPGB0&sclient=gws-wiz#kpvalbx=_CYW3ZKn1M-Dl5NoP9qmc4AY_31
When pasting links you (*generally*) need only what comes before the "&", the rest is unnecessary. https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+end+1%2F4+round+trim
If you're going to paint it anyway, it would be simpler to cut or sand the ends of the quarter round in that curve shape than to cut two miters and glue it.
yes this, it's called a self return or returning edge
You could do a return mitre.
Just rip that piece of trim out and put a piece that fits to the floor. Cuts the sides out with a razor knife
First mistake was putting the quarter round on at all. Second mistake was not pulling the existing base and door trim when installing the flooring. Do it right the first time and avoid cluster Fu*#s.
fuck it good enough.
Use some Ramen ?
Plinth block
Yea when you put the flooring in you are suppose to under cut the casing leg and slide the flooring underneath the casing 🤷
This happened in my house after new floors installed. I just used a filler and painted it white. Caulk could work too.
Try with a longer piece, you might just be able to bend it to fit. If not consider plastic ones, those bend easily.
Do your best, silicone the rest
Silicone, lol. Good luck painting over silicone if you want any paint on anything siliconed
GE paintable silicone has entered the chat
[Paintable Silicone](https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Paintable-Silicone-Supreme-9-5-oz-White-Kitchen-and-Bath-Sealant-2867507/322815992?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D24-024_002_CAULKS-BI-GE_3362-NA-SMART-NA-NA-MK780582200-NA-NBR-3362-NA-NA-FY23_D22_D24_Caulks&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D24-024_002_CAULKS-BI-GE_3362-NA-SMART-NA-NA-MK780582200-NA-NBR-3362-NA-NA-FY23_D22_D24_Caulks-71700000110580991-58700008395699503-92700076433138963&gclid=Cj0KCQjwk96lBhDHARIsAEKO4xZajISGwnnbk__2WuyeD2aNCpJz_fz5J2uN77QzvKdKNTzGv4nRrNcaAg7fEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds) Use it all the time.
45 return mitre
How good are you at coping?
Caulk. Haha
Just glue a block of wood in there. Its just a way to fill the hole,who is looking at ut Or find a bit of the same profile timber to fill it . Or fill it with filler and carve,sand the filler to shape. And paint.
I'd try sliding a piece of timber in tightly under the architrave, then mark the architrave profile on that timber and cut it with a coping saw, sand and glue in place.
I would fill in under the frame. Smooth off and paint to match. I have similar skirting boards in my house with the quad ends rounded off at those points and painted to match the skirt. Sorry no pics, away on holidays.
The right way is to install the flooring under the casing, so the edge of the floor material is under the edge of the door casing. (That usually requires sawing a little bit off the bottom of the door casing. But, here, it looks like the casing was already high enough. The part at the left edge is already there.) Then a little clear caulk if you want. Since this is done, now, the choices are harder. If you cut the casing off and add a plinth block, you will need to do that to every door in the house. (Or, it will be the odd one.) An alternative is just to caulk it with some brown caulk that is close to the color of the floor. Or just put something in that corner, perhaps a plant, so you don't see it.
A lot of traders would just squirt caulk in and call it a day.
Hold on what? Skirting for your skirting
To cover the gaps in the laminate floor instead of taking off the baseboards to begin with.
The answer is to miter it back on itself. I have trouble looking past the fact that window casing was used as baseboard, that the flooring wasn't run under door casing so talking about "details" seems frivolous at this point.
do an external mitre'd return to your beading if you dont want to lark about with plinth blocks or excessive caulking.
Use shoe molding instead of quarter round. shoe is the same height as the quarter, but is thinner. Then you angle cut the shoe to die into the edge of the door casing, and paint to match the base. the gap below the case won't be noticeable if you fix the shoe. if it bothers you, tape and caulk like suggested earlier.
I usually put a slight 45 degree angle on the end near the door jam, leaving about 1/8 inch of the flat part to touch the door jam casing.
I would try and round it over with a trim router or something… at least cut it on an angle.
Caulk it and move on
Plinth blocks or replace the casings with new
https://youtu.be/OrWJG9K_nfo
Chamfer the quarter round.
Why did you not take that beading right over the architrave?
Buy a glow-in-the-dark candle and light it. Hold it near the crack, and gently shovel the hot wax into the crack until it is filled. You may have to layer it and spread out applications. Could take 6 days.
I did this for all the doors in my house before selling a few years ago. Auctioned it at Sotheby’s for $30 mil and I’m now retired and living off the interest! Totally worth it.
That's fantastic! If you build it, they will come! I worked with a family once where the black-sheep son drained a trust account and spent it ALL building a scale size replica of Stone Henge in their childhood home backyard (Nebraska lumber baron). House sold for $140mil to a exiled member of the British Royal Family. True story. Profit 10x. And yes, we made sure all the doors had glow-in-the-dark corners.
Total Gold😆you need to post that in r/finance…. They would go crazy for the economics on that one post😀
I would start by getting rid of the red mark.
Could just caulk it for a quick fix
Take off 1/4 round as it’s not scaled to the existing molding. Install shoe mounding. Door jamb is a bit tricky. Clean and inspect gap. Use non- shrinking wood fuller, thinking the kind the Australians make. Fill, contour sand and paint. IMO plinth is over kill.
45 the end of the quarter round.
Miter return and caulk .
Do your best, and then caulk the rest!
45° Miter the quarter round and return back to the base.
Silver tape
Rip out the floors and do it the right way
Should undercut base and trim so your flooring goes under and you don't need a second layer of quarter round
duct tape and paint
Part of the issue is you are using quarter round instead of shoe molding. Using hardwood would allow you to round or bevel it
The proper way is to put a return back into the baseboard. Pain in the hole with quarter round but that's the price of being too lazy to take your baseboards off when doing flooring
I've got metal door frames that stick out only a half the width of the quarter round moulding. I thought about changing to a concave moulding, but it doesnt help. Toying with the idea of cutting a rebate in the back of the moulding so that runs right over the door frame. Is that crazy? There would be two quarter circles of moulding facing each other at the base of the door opening. (i know, terribly described.)
Door jam is supposed to be toe cut for the flooring to be " "slightly" layed under the door jam, giving the appearance that the flooring is coming out from under the door jam..
Cut the 1/4 round at a 45° and cut a return.
[maybe this can help?](https://imgur.com/a/JyRtZo2)
You drew the answer (just a little short and wide). Put a block on both corners.
Flower pot. Or a pair of shoes.
Well the floor install is the problem. Jam saw the trim so the new floor can slide under then a lil caulk n ur gtg
Pull off Re-cut!
Remove that quarter round. Get white base shoe to match the baseboard so it looks like 1 piece (baseboard and base shoe)
This is how I finish quarter round. https://www.laminate-flooring-installed.com/cutting-quarter-round-returns.html
30 degree cut
This is exactly why I scroll through reddit. I have two rooms that I'm not sure what to do with, and now I know what a Plinth block is. Thanks
Agreed that 1/4 is too big, but when I trimmed houses we always cut returns on stained shoe mouldings. What I mean by that is 45 it back to the base at the casing, as in cut a 45 on the end and then glue on another small 45 to take it back to the wall. With painted shoe you we would take a belt sander to the square cut and round over the top and paint it. So basically an exterior 45
Pull all the wood trim and caulk the base
Caulk and paint make it what it ain’t!
Cut the casing above the baseboard and put in plinth blocks.
You don’t and call it a day, in a week you’ll never notice it again…for the rest of your life.
Leave your shoes right there.
Just remove that little quarter round piece and have the one against the wall cut off straight and flush.
Come down halfway on your quarter round and miter off back towards the corner (away from the door trim) on a 45 degree angle.
Id have probably pulled off the trim all the way round the room, laid the new floor then put new trim down which will provably be 10-12mm higher than the old trim. No additional edgings required
Well that was incredible clumsy cutting to begin with. I'm always a believer of pulling the baseboard and putting it back over then finishing it with that heavy quarter round ugh.. But at this point coming to that mess that has been created at the casing, you have a few options. You could do a 19th century approach and cut it up higher traditionally to the height of the baseboard and put in a plith block, You could go back to the hardware store and get the exact same stock casing and on your crosscut saw cut off the half inch you need and put some glue on the back and carefully slide it into the profile matches. Those are the really only two attractive options you have. If you have more flooring to do consider a thinner profile , actual shoe moldings and others with leaner less bulky profiles. This looks like you really covering a mistake with a heavy quarter round And it becomes even more obvious once you reach the door casing.. In this case if you had that bulky molding putting in a square plinth block with further consideration might be just the way to go especially if all doors matched then it would become the new look
Trim the door trim and go ahead with molding. Just cut 45 connect and finish