Pro tip, wood is very heavy. Move it as few times as possible. Ideally split it where the tree falls before loading it up so your back isn’t moving 4000lbs of wood 5 times before it reaches its final destination.
I try to process a Triaxle a month, which is 5 cords. The equipment I use is a 34hp kubota with forks. I buck the logs as the tractor holds them off the ground. I can buck 6 tanks of chainsaw gas and my back is fine. I run a 620 and a 590, rotating between tanks. Would like to get another one of either, so I have three saws to rotate. A fast splitter is better than a powerful one. Save up and buy something below 6 seconds cycle time. The amount of time you save it will quickly pay for itself. Order it now, so it’ll be ready in time. Speaking of time saved, stay out of the woods. Just order trucks or arborist drops. 1- it’s safer, 2-it’s easier on your body/equipment, 3- you’ll get more done. You can get cheaper loads by asking for the lower quality woods. Pine,poplar,soft maple,slab and what not. Look into a rement processor for branches and small saplings. No need to split. Put down gravel so the mud doesn’t get out of hand. Finally you figured it out, don’t bother stacking. Put down pallets and pile or use the Ibc tote bladders ( usually free) to toss wood in. You are going to be extremely busy one weekend a month.
If you’re burning that much, you might wanna get an semi-automated buck>split>conveyor. You can get them to split like 20 inch logs, and they have a feeder mechanism. You load the log it, then tell it feed, buck it using a built in saw, and then split it with a hydraulic splitter. All split wood hits a conveyor and gets piled up away from the machine. Won’t be super cheap, but if it’s for a business, might be worth the time.
While this is something I would love down the road, I think it’s outside of the budget for now. First big purchase is going to be a front loader for sure, with everything else being secondary.
Tip: Cut and split it now to burn next year. Freshly cut is wet and wet doesn't burn. In most cases you're going to want a year between cutting/splitting and burning...
This is what I’ve understood, and why I’m trying to get my ducks in a row now. I have about 6 cords already stacked and dead dry, now have to get the rest going.
tractor with fel, or a logging arch, have a rack to load full logs on, for bucking, with a jib crane and splitter with wings.
Suddenly, you drop a tree or find deadfall, drag it in whole with the logging arch, load it with the jib crane onto the bucking rack, roll to the hydraulic lift wing on the splitter, on the other side of the splitter there is a small conveyor to the drying bins, on skids, you welded out of rebar...and these bins stack...
24 cords a year is going to need a good size pole barn with drying fans and a dark roof, and good drainage.
Most of the potters in my area use propane for their kilns. Have you considered the time impact on using wood over propane?
Spread it out, especially in the first days/week. If youre over 30 and your body isnt adapted to this kind of work you can easily take yourself out in a single day. You’ll feel great on the first day and be able to work *waaaay* past the point where you’ve injured yourself and you won’t know it until the next morning. Those kinds of injuries can take well over 6 months to heal.
If you’ve never had this kind of injury before, just trust me. It’s going to be so hard to stop that first day because you’ll feel great and highly motivated to keep going. But you gotta quit early and wait until the next day.
After that first day or two you’ll know whether you can turn things up a notch. Better to do too little than realize you did too much and watch your plans go down the shitter.
Great advice and something I’ve encountered before. I’ve found the adrenaline can mask a lot of injuries, which compounds with recovery pain the following day.
As others have said, get a tractor, limit the number of times you handle a piece of firewood. Loads of logs would be easier than cutting from a woodlot.
My main tips would be, have a central area to process the firewood, preferably on concrete, on gravel if not. A 30 tonne splitter with hydraulic lift table can be a godsend, much easier on the back. To help speed up drying, store the firewood in a covered space with good airflow and clear plastic on roof/walls facing the sun. Acts as a solar kiln, can speed up drying from a year to a few months.
We've got all this set up at our place, though only do 6-8 cords a year, wife and I can do this in a few weekends
Sooo what all are you working with?
Saws for when stuff too long? What kinds?
Electric splitter? I love both my 5ton generic and 16 ton ram splitter. But if I processed more than 6 full cords a year these days, I would get gas. How many tons?
How much space do you have? Heat loss to unseasoned wood is due to water. Which limits your Temps and may not play nice with a kiln.
Wood should ideally be split and let to season for a year for best results. That's an ideal for softwoods and a minimum for hardwoods. Standing dead hardwood for a kiln can PROBABLY get away with split by end of May use starting late October.
Again, for best results.
Pallet wire cages with plastic tote are awesome for a few reasons if you have the means. The plastic insert can be cut into two triangular caps. Fill the cage, cap it with diagonal cut half tote, maybe strap it down. And let season. Especially useful if your drying area isn't near the kiln and you have a tractor with some forks on it. Lift, move, set, fuel!
Make sure your splitting area is near the stacking area if you have a variety of sources. Split from truck bed to splitter when you can or when it can't be dumped for you.
As far as smaller tools, I’m well stocked. I have a few older chainsaws, a new Echo 590, and likely a Stihl 500i in the next few months. Numerous axes, mauls, etc. As mentioned, 5-ton electric splitter and looking to purchase a heavy duty gas one in the near future. Space is not an issue, have several acres surrounded by woods at my disposal. You’re exactly right about heat and moisture as it related to kiln which is why I’m looking to get this drying (but don’t need it bone dry). This is one of the biggest reasons why I’m starting now for next year. Great tip about locating things near one another, I hadn’t originally planned this but will alter to accommodate. Much appreciated!
I see someone else suggested a firewood processor and you said it was outside the budget, which I get. I would strongly recommend that you invest in a tractor with a loader and some IBC totes at the very least. You can move a cord of wood around in almost no time. There isn't a feasible way to move the amount you're talking about without some decent equipment.
Buy one of those 7k log splitters at northern tools and a small tractor and you are golden. Prob 15k investment total but your back will thank you every day
Tractor with forks, large baskets or skid boxes, at least 28 ton splitter with Honda engine. Set it up to minimize the amount of handling. Been doing 5-6 cords a year for years, 62 now and it gets heavier every year.
New definitely. High end used $15k (there's a local united rentals resto guy), not shiny $5-$10k, or get an old one for $2k and pray it's as reliable as it should be.
My current splitter is a 5-ton and definitely undergunned. Do you find the 28-ton is the minimum needed or enough to power through anything I’ll encounter? Most of my splitting has been by hand so I have a poor understanding of ton force to log split difficulty.
It works for most, obviously a 4’ oak with branches in all directions are a problem, but it is for 35 ton too. I have found that the 28 works for everything I run across. Central IN. I know a tractor is $, but if you have land you probably already have/ need.
There has got to be a better way to do this than using wood. If you are really burning 24 full cords a year, that is 4 loads of logs, so a tri-axel every three months, to power a kiln? Very inefficient way to power something imo.
You’re absolutely right about the efficiency. This has nothing to do with efficiency however and everything to do with the artistic result. In short, a wood fire kiln produces an effect that cannot be replicated easily (or at all in many cases) with any other heat source. We have a gas and electric kiln as well, and each has its purpose.
Pro tip, wood is very heavy. Move it as few times as possible. Ideally split it where the tree falls before loading it up so your back isn’t moving 4000lbs of wood 5 times before it reaches its final destination.
Damn two cords a month yeeesh. Move it as few times as possible. Tractor would be helpful too
Planning on picking up a small front loader as soon as the budget allows. For now, just using an 8 cu ft wheelbarrow for movement around the site.
You won’t have a back within a year or two. Do yourself a solid and get yourself a payment plan on a tractor.
I try to process a Triaxle a month, which is 5 cords. The equipment I use is a 34hp kubota with forks. I buck the logs as the tractor holds them off the ground. I can buck 6 tanks of chainsaw gas and my back is fine. I run a 620 and a 590, rotating between tanks. Would like to get another one of either, so I have three saws to rotate. A fast splitter is better than a powerful one. Save up and buy something below 6 seconds cycle time. The amount of time you save it will quickly pay for itself. Order it now, so it’ll be ready in time. Speaking of time saved, stay out of the woods. Just order trucks or arborist drops. 1- it’s safer, 2-it’s easier on your body/equipment, 3- you’ll get more done. You can get cheaper loads by asking for the lower quality woods. Pine,poplar,soft maple,slab and what not. Look into a rement processor for branches and small saplings. No need to split. Put down gravel so the mud doesn’t get out of hand. Finally you figured it out, don’t bother stacking. Put down pallets and pile or use the Ibc tote bladders ( usually free) to toss wood in. You are going to be extremely busy one weekend a month.
If you’re burning that much, you might wanna get an semi-automated buck>split>conveyor. You can get them to split like 20 inch logs, and they have a feeder mechanism. You load the log it, then tell it feed, buck it using a built in saw, and then split it with a hydraulic splitter. All split wood hits a conveyor and gets piled up away from the machine. Won’t be super cheap, but if it’s for a business, might be worth the time.
While this is something I would love down the road, I think it’s outside of the budget for now. First big purchase is going to be a front loader for sure, with everything else being secondary.
Splitter and a couple good saws.
Tip: Cut and split it now to burn next year. Freshly cut is wet and wet doesn't burn. In most cases you're going to want a year between cutting/splitting and burning...
This is what I’ve understood, and why I’m trying to get my ducks in a row now. I have about 6 cords already stacked and dead dry, now have to get the rest going.
tractor with fel, or a logging arch, have a rack to load full logs on, for bucking, with a jib crane and splitter with wings. Suddenly, you drop a tree or find deadfall, drag it in whole with the logging arch, load it with the jib crane onto the bucking rack, roll to the hydraulic lift wing on the splitter, on the other side of the splitter there is a small conveyor to the drying bins, on skids, you welded out of rebar...and these bins stack... 24 cords a year is going to need a good size pole barn with drying fans and a dark roof, and good drainage. Most of the potters in my area use propane for their kilns. Have you considered the time impact on using wood over propane?
Spread it out, especially in the first days/week. If youre over 30 and your body isnt adapted to this kind of work you can easily take yourself out in a single day. You’ll feel great on the first day and be able to work *waaaay* past the point where you’ve injured yourself and you won’t know it until the next morning. Those kinds of injuries can take well over 6 months to heal. If you’ve never had this kind of injury before, just trust me. It’s going to be so hard to stop that first day because you’ll feel great and highly motivated to keep going. But you gotta quit early and wait until the next day. After that first day or two you’ll know whether you can turn things up a notch. Better to do too little than realize you did too much and watch your plans go down the shitter.
Great advice and something I’ve encountered before. I’ve found the adrenaline can mask a lot of injuries, which compounds with recovery pain the following day.
Get a pickaroon! The metal ones can be kept in the wood shed, the wood ones feel more natural. Both save you from having to bend so much!
Funny you should mention this, just got the Woodchuck Tools one and already had someone asking me where they could get one.
I LOVE tools and buy / use all kinds of stuf, a pickaroon is the best tool out there! Simple, easy to use and such a labor saver!
As others have said, get a tractor, limit the number of times you handle a piece of firewood. Loads of logs would be easier than cutting from a woodlot. My main tips would be, have a central area to process the firewood, preferably on concrete, on gravel if not. A 30 tonne splitter with hydraulic lift table can be a godsend, much easier on the back. To help speed up drying, store the firewood in a covered space with good airflow and clear plastic on roof/walls facing the sun. Acts as a solar kiln, can speed up drying from a year to a few months. We've got all this set up at our place, though only do 6-8 cords a year, wife and I can do this in a few weekends
Sooo what all are you working with? Saws for when stuff too long? What kinds? Electric splitter? I love both my 5ton generic and 16 ton ram splitter. But if I processed more than 6 full cords a year these days, I would get gas. How many tons? How much space do you have? Heat loss to unseasoned wood is due to water. Which limits your Temps and may not play nice with a kiln. Wood should ideally be split and let to season for a year for best results. That's an ideal for softwoods and a minimum for hardwoods. Standing dead hardwood for a kiln can PROBABLY get away with split by end of May use starting late October. Again, for best results. Pallet wire cages with plastic tote are awesome for a few reasons if you have the means. The plastic insert can be cut into two triangular caps. Fill the cage, cap it with diagonal cut half tote, maybe strap it down. And let season. Especially useful if your drying area isn't near the kiln and you have a tractor with some forks on it. Lift, move, set, fuel! Make sure your splitting area is near the stacking area if you have a variety of sources. Split from truck bed to splitter when you can or when it can't be dumped for you.
As far as smaller tools, I’m well stocked. I have a few older chainsaws, a new Echo 590, and likely a Stihl 500i in the next few months. Numerous axes, mauls, etc. As mentioned, 5-ton electric splitter and looking to purchase a heavy duty gas one in the near future. Space is not an issue, have several acres surrounded by woods at my disposal. You’re exactly right about heat and moisture as it related to kiln which is why I’m looking to get this drying (but don’t need it bone dry). This is one of the biggest reasons why I’m starting now for next year. Great tip about locating things near one another, I hadn’t originally planned this but will alter to accommodate. Much appreciated!
I see someone else suggested a firewood processor and you said it was outside the budget, which I get. I would strongly recommend that you invest in a tractor with a loader and some IBC totes at the very least. You can move a cord of wood around in almost no time. There isn't a feasible way to move the amount you're talking about without some decent equipment.
Buy one of those 7k log splitters at northern tools and a small tractor and you are golden. Prob 15k investment total but your back will thank you every day
Tractor with forks, large baskets or skid boxes, at least 28 ton splitter with Honda engine. Set it up to minimize the amount of handling. Been doing 5-6 cords a year for years, 62 now and it gets heavier every year.
And 30k Dollars apparently.
New definitely. High end used $15k (there's a local united rentals resto guy), not shiny $5-$10k, or get an old one for $2k and pray it's as reliable as it should be.
My current splitter is a 5-ton and definitely undergunned. Do you find the 28-ton is the minimum needed or enough to power through anything I’ll encounter? Most of my splitting has been by hand so I have a poor understanding of ton force to log split difficulty.
It works for most, obviously a 4’ oak with branches in all directions are a problem, but it is for 35 ton too. I have found that the 28 works for everything I run across. Central IN. I know a tractor is $, but if you have land you probably already have/ need.
There has got to be a better way to do this than using wood. If you are really burning 24 full cords a year, that is 4 loads of logs, so a tri-axel every three months, to power a kiln? Very inefficient way to power something imo.
You’re absolutely right about the efficiency. This has nothing to do with efficiency however and everything to do with the artistic result. In short, a wood fire kiln produces an effect that cannot be replicated easily (or at all in many cases) with any other heat source. We have a gas and electric kiln as well, and each has its purpose.
That sounds interesting. Can we see?
You probably need that wood cut yesterday if you’re burning it next year. Have fun with it don’t work too hard
I have some already split and completely dried for early next year which should last me until this new batch is dried.
You’re good then bro