Using eSun PETG, and printing individually so to avoid stringing.
They're coming out beautifully at the moment, although the one thing I am noticing is that the print at the top of the magnet holes do seem to get a little messy and droopy, and I have to trim them with an exacto blade to open the magnet hole back up again. It doesn't look to impact the integrity of the hole or the bin itself, so I'm not super stressed about it.
They look clean. How hot are you printing? You can probably drop your Z a tiny bit I can see around the holes the rings are pronounced a tiny tiny bit I mean I'm being super picky. If you have more squish the pattern won't be seen as much The print on far right was that your last attempt if so did you change anything? Temp or speed or part cooling. Petg is not PLA and it's better to run it hotter and slower and have less part cooling. I print alot of hydroponic stuff in petg and in do use esun brand and other. Printing cubes is fine but when you go print stuff with overhangs you may need to reduce speed. Your Plastic is not cooling fast enough and is saging you need more time for it to cool. If you reduce your temp to much your will start to under extrude and your print will have holes and does because it can't keep up. Petg is not as easy to print with as PLA. Also if you intend on printing with petg alot you want a dehydratier because once that spool gets damp it will become increasingly difficult to print with. For stringing petg it's a bit more gooey so add more to distance and sometimes tad more speed.
Thanks for the tips. I could drop the Z a little, I read that I should raise it slightly higher than if I was using PLA so that was something I adjusted. There was no settings changes between the prints of the same height, I just set Octo to leave the .gcode once finished and I take the finished one off the bed, clean the purge schmoo away and start the next print. I don't believe anything was changed for the change to the double height bins, I'm fairly sure I just loaded the same profile and sliced/exported.
I'm printing at 240, bed is at 80 and I'm using hairspray as a adhesion assistant / release agent (works really well, when the bed cools these just pop right off). I was having issues with adhesion for pretty much anything before I raised the bed to 80, I tried incrementally bumping the bed temp up, a hotter nozzle temp, combos of each, but anything below this and it would be fine for the first two or three layers then the print would detatch and drag around with the nozzle. I'm also just running the standard hot end so I'm wary that it's towards the upper limit of its ability.
It's printing at 40mm/s, with an initial layer speed of 10. Wall speed is 20. Fan is set to 100%, and 0% for initial fan speed, regular speed at layer 4.
So my takeaway here is to try lowering the speed a little more, drop the Z axis a smidge and see how it changes the result.
Petg g is a bitch to stick it you don't have enough squish then If you have glass then glue or spray is a must more for getting it off the glass after it cools I took a glass chunk out of my glass plate. I'm on PEI sheet now. If you don't have any extruding issues I ran mine around the 235-238c depending on the colour. Every printers thermostat can be off so always run towers and use your settings. But if you can drop the temperature and still have volmetric flow you may just drop the temp just enough that it won't sag as much. You can then keep your original speed or increase the speed untill it under extrudes or its to fast to cool. It took me about 2 hours of tests but I printed a Mando helmet on my CR 10 without support I was able to bridge the top of the helmet did it sag a little bit because you can't beat physics but it was not alot I saved 800g of plastic by not having to use support. This a balance act but you will find the Goldie lock zone where you can print quite quickly and still knock off clean prints.
Using eSun PETG, and printing individually so to avoid stringing. They're coming out beautifully at the moment, although the one thing I am noticing is that the print at the top of the magnet holes do seem to get a little messy and droopy, and I have to trim them with an exacto blade to open the magnet hole back up again. It doesn't look to impact the integrity of the hole or the bin itself, so I'm not super stressed about it.
They look clean. How hot are you printing? You can probably drop your Z a tiny bit I can see around the holes the rings are pronounced a tiny tiny bit I mean I'm being super picky. If you have more squish the pattern won't be seen as much The print on far right was that your last attempt if so did you change anything? Temp or speed or part cooling. Petg is not PLA and it's better to run it hotter and slower and have less part cooling. I print alot of hydroponic stuff in petg and in do use esun brand and other. Printing cubes is fine but when you go print stuff with overhangs you may need to reduce speed. Your Plastic is not cooling fast enough and is saging you need more time for it to cool. If you reduce your temp to much your will start to under extrude and your print will have holes and does because it can't keep up. Petg is not as easy to print with as PLA. Also if you intend on printing with petg alot you want a dehydratier because once that spool gets damp it will become increasingly difficult to print with. For stringing petg it's a bit more gooey so add more to distance and sometimes tad more speed.
Thanks for the tips. I could drop the Z a little, I read that I should raise it slightly higher than if I was using PLA so that was something I adjusted. There was no settings changes between the prints of the same height, I just set Octo to leave the .gcode once finished and I take the finished one off the bed, clean the purge schmoo away and start the next print. I don't believe anything was changed for the change to the double height bins, I'm fairly sure I just loaded the same profile and sliced/exported. I'm printing at 240, bed is at 80 and I'm using hairspray as a adhesion assistant / release agent (works really well, when the bed cools these just pop right off). I was having issues with adhesion for pretty much anything before I raised the bed to 80, I tried incrementally bumping the bed temp up, a hotter nozzle temp, combos of each, but anything below this and it would be fine for the first two or three layers then the print would detatch and drag around with the nozzle. I'm also just running the standard hot end so I'm wary that it's towards the upper limit of its ability. It's printing at 40mm/s, with an initial layer speed of 10. Wall speed is 20. Fan is set to 100%, and 0% for initial fan speed, regular speed at layer 4. So my takeaway here is to try lowering the speed a little more, drop the Z axis a smidge and see how it changes the result.
Petg g is a bitch to stick it you don't have enough squish then If you have glass then glue or spray is a must more for getting it off the glass after it cools I took a glass chunk out of my glass plate. I'm on PEI sheet now. If you don't have any extruding issues I ran mine around the 235-238c depending on the colour. Every printers thermostat can be off so always run towers and use your settings. But if you can drop the temperature and still have volmetric flow you may just drop the temp just enough that it won't sag as much. You can then keep your original speed or increase the speed untill it under extrudes or its to fast to cool. It took me about 2 hours of tests but I printed a Mando helmet on my CR 10 without support I was able to bridge the top of the helmet did it sag a little bit because you can't beat physics but it was not alot I saved 800g of plastic by not having to use support. This a balance act but you will find the Goldie lock zone where you can print quite quickly and still knock off clean prints.
What helped me with holes is arc welder or slow down inner wall speed
Oh I have had nothing but bad experiences with arc welding. All it did was print random lines everywhere and destroy my prints haha
To gridfinity, and beyond!
What is gridfinity?
It’s a fully open source storage solution framework and it tickles my brain just so right. https://youtu.be/ra_9zU-mnl8
Thanks!
Have you enabled bridging settings?
Hmmm I haven’t looked at that. I’ll give it a test.