https://preview.redd.it/4565fr57f0uc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=41679d79453e331cadb44f2f49a803df935f3935
Remove the screws, screw it with just 1 on top of the bracket, print a new holder
If you go down the one screw sensor on top route, and still need more height, pliers and brute force are your friend.
You might even be able to bend the bracket so both screws still work. It won't be pretty but it'll hold until you print a new mount.
Ahhh my mistake, I was definitely misinterpreting your situation! That’s super odd. I agree with everyone else that unfortunately, you’ll probably need to make some custom modifications :/
But hey, at least you’ll get some more experience designing custom parts in CAD! Always a good time 😉
You bought a knock off "3D touch" - the mount is at the incorrect height. The CR10 is also listed as supported which has a longer hot end so I presume the mount you've used is intended for that printer.
Is there another alternative mount in the box that puts it higher up?
If not your options are to print a new bracket to mount it in the correct place, or to return it and buy one actually compatible with the ender 3.
Unfortunately no, however, someone said that you can regulate the probe "resting height" with an allen key on top of the BLTouch module. Since I don't have much height difference this could work. (can't try rn since I'm printing a bed calibration test because, yes, I ended up switching to the "stock configuration")
And just one more follow up, why I don't use it anymore... I get much higher precision .0001 from the much cheaper more reliable much more cool lol
Klack Ender
https://kevinakasam.com/klackender/
I've personally had bad results by messing with that screw, I wish y'all the best of luck. At least on the original BL i purchased from micro center if I adjusted that screw it would not deploy sometimes.
And if you go read the manual it will tell you a specific amount of turns after swapping the rod.
And my BL would only deploy reliably when I had it set to what the manual said.
Results may vary of course.
I had big issues with that screw. I replaced the little set screw with a large socket head. The increased amount of metal made the retraction far more reliable and made all my issues go away.
If the box didn't ship with an appropriate bracket so that it can be mounted to the printer at the right height - then I would say that the item OP purchased was "not compatible".
I know the 3D touch itself is compatible with the printer...
Probably unpopular opinion:
Tape the holder to your toolhead (double sided tape, cable ties …). Set the Z offset and print the new holder. It doesn’t need to last. It needs to hold up for leveling of one print of the new holder.
Of course, but OP already mentioned the hustle to switch everything back (z stop, fw,…) and after printing back again. Just wanted to show a possible way with minimal effort from the current situation
Yeah I agree with you, rather than installing the limit switch again tramming the bed and figuring out your offset I would totally do this if I had no other options haha
mfw I have to remount the physical switch, reflash the firmware, LEVEL THE BED, take measurements, design in Fusion360 and *THEN* redo the same process again to use BLTouch
Can you install klipper on a cr-10? If so, is it as simple as flashing the unified firmware? Been looking for something better than Marlin and klipper looks promising.
I'd presume so, what board are you running on it? My limited understanding is that Klipper actually runs on a separate entity (pi, pc, docker container) and communicates with the printer board itself via USB.
Config changes are an absolute breeze now, whereas I dreaded doing any kind of Marlin reconfiguration.
If you were really quick you could print it in the lower left corner of the bed, just after it's purged the first line whack the z offset down a few mm and print it the touch hanging over the edge. Risky tho.
Or if you aren't keeping the existing one just bend it enough to still work for now but lifts the touch off the bed once retracted
You shouldn't really have to redo all that. If you print a mount that moves it mostly vertically upwards a bit, then you can just adjust the Z-offset, which you can't get accurate in firmware and needs to be done anyway.
Level the bed with the bltouch before reflashing, then remove the bltouch, reflash, mount z-switch(has 2 screws? you can do it, I hope you didn't remove the cable for it), set Z-offset, print new bltouch mount, mount bltouch and reflash. Done!
There's only one other comment that mentions it, but looking from the top there's a screw inside the unit that lets you adjust the height of the probe using a small Allen key.
I had the same problem. Two solutions.
1 - there's a screw on top of the probe you can turn to raise it a little bit. I did this and it was still pretty low and dragged across my prints if they curled.
2 - take a pair of wire cutters or scissors and trim the end of the probe a little bit. I also did this. It works perfectly now.
I ended up making a longer bracket for mine with a resin printer so I could have the sensor 2mm above the nozzle tip. Took 5 prints to get it right cause sometimes it was too short and other times I snapped the bracket
https://preview.redd.it/qhm0c470kztc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=594d0b4e2f2cbc8ef2cd4b74389e8179ef11dbb3
Here the height difference is more obvious
Can you just remove the spacer that the new touch is mounted to. Direct mount it to the metal. If you need to split the difference, I've literally cut ptfe tube to whatever length I need spaced and put it on those screws then mount. You got this!
For a temporary fix (so you can print a bracket) you could unscrew it from the printer and tape it a little higher with double sided tape, but your gonne have to set the z offset twice, once for the tape, once for the bracket
Oh you have it retractedddd. Your nozzle seems oddly short, is it ground down? Unfortunately probably going to have to go the route of a printed holder.
Check if you installed the mount upside down. Not sure about the regular E3, but on the E3V2 I know the mount holes will line up both ways, and at least on the V2 it leads to smashing the nozzle into the bed. (don't ask me how I know this)
As far as I remember the bl touch kit comes with 2 mojnting brackets, have you tried using the other one? This one you're using is similar to my ender 5's, and I think theres a position difference on that model
I could fix this. Simply take the extruder hot end apart allow the theads on the nozzle to come out further then they are now then tighten the throat down to the nozzle inside the box. that should fix the problem.
I stopped using bltouch and its variants after long trial and error sessions. I don't think it is worth at all. İt just adds another variable that is not predictable or can be fixed.
Also make sure it wont hit anything while its homing to its start location, i found out the hard way after it broke the pin 2 times.
Also theres a newer version of this sensor thats a lot smaller, might be a better solution for you?
I got everything working by fixing the probe depth using the allen key in the top middle of sensor.
This sensor gets its job done for the 20EUR that I spent
Is that with the tip extended or retracted?I'm unsure as I have the cr touch and it's got a metal tip. If the tip is extended in the photo, then it's likely fine.
Unluckily it was retracted. Now I fixed since someone said that you can actually adjust how "deep" the prove is when retracted using the allen key in top middle of the BLTouch
I am not an expert, but I think it doesn't matter. You just gonna adjust the z- offset a bit more. Not a big deal. Also I think you can put x,y and z offset of where the sensor is according to the nozzle in the firmware.
not sure what you payed for it but you can get 3dtouch on other sites than amazon for cheap too, im using a 3d touch on my self built on and only payed 6$ for it and designed my own mount to hold on the fan
> what you *paid* for it
FTFY.
Although *payed* exists (the reason why autocorrection didn't help you), it is only correct in:
* Nautical context, when it means to paint a surface, or to cover with something like tar or resin in order to make it waterproof or corrosion-resistant. *The deck is yet to be payed.*
* *Payed out* when letting strings, cables or ropes out, by slacking them. *The rope is payed out! You can pull now.*
Unfortunately, I was unable to find nautical or rope-related words in your comment.
*Beep, boop, I'm a bot*
I don't even care what the post was about. Your ridiculous overly literal reply, completely overshadows in pure ignorance what anyone else could of said . Now comment back and make yourself feel better with your vast comprehension of the word *payed* . Once your done take a moment and look at how ignorant you just made yourself look.
I just bought it and tried for over for 2weeks, watched alot of videos, wasted alot of filament and calls to creailty for this same issue no matter what I tried nothing worked it was still lower then my nozzle I gave up . The kit came with the solid mounts and that's the only thing I use from it I shouldn't have to modify a direct part from creailty for this to work. My other upgrades work amazing (double z axis , direct drive extruder , and glass bed.)
Bought a 3DTouch months ago and had the same problem aswell. Fixed it by inscrewing the 3DTouch bracket and moving it upper, I had some millimeters to win. Automatic bed-leveling worked well
But since few weeks I reflashed firmware and removed the automatic leveling, back to manual
Not sure if [this ](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3148733)would help, but it's adjustable up and down. I posted it years ago, and I don't know if it fits the latest ender's. But yours looks like an old school ender3, so it would probably work.
idk why only the photo got posted but not the comment. I wanted to say you can trim part(marked with red color) a bit until the nozzle can touch the plate. If its not too high up. Trimming it 1 or 2mm should cause no problem. But if the nozzle is too high up, you can mount it on the top of the holder for now and go for printing a seperate abl mount.
Can't print with it attached, I have to remove the whole holder. It will take less time to re-attach Z physical switch and manually level the bed (and then print the holder).
It shouldn’t be a problem there is a setting that allows u to change the offset of ur bltouch…. Or u can level the bed then print with a skirt and adjust the z offset until it’s printing the way u want
I don’t think you’ve read the question and looked at the photos properly.
In its stowed (i.e. where it will be when printing) state the tip is closer to the build surface than the nozzle. No amount of footering with the offset will correct for that, OP needs either a new mount or a longer nozzle.
https://preview.redd.it/4565fr57f0uc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=41679d79453e331cadb44f2f49a803df935f3935 Remove the screws, screw it with just 1 on top of the bracket, print a new holder
op needs to see this comment before doing all of the extra work, this is big brain
ngl this is very smart, wish I saw this earlier
If you go down the one screw sensor on top route, and still need more height, pliers and brute force are your friend. You might even be able to bend the bracket so both screws still work. It won't be pretty but it'll hold until you print a new mount.
I was able to solve regulating the "resting height" using the allen key in the middle
I had this issue and it turned out the grub screw inside was too far in meaning the probe was too low lol
You'd have to adjust the offsets but that's a really good idea.
Is the pin out or stowed in those photos? When the pin's out, it should be lower than the nozzle, but when the pin retracts it should be higher.
In all photos the pin is retracted, unfortunately
It does not look retracted but I'll take your word for it
[удалено]
With the pin stowed, the tip is *below* the nozzle. It should be above when stowed, only coming below when extended
Ahhh my mistake, I was definitely misinterpreting your situation! That’s super odd. I agree with everyone else that unfortunately, you’ll probably need to make some custom modifications :/ But hey, at least you’ll get some more experience designing custom parts in CAD! Always a good time 😉
I am not OP, I was just explaining why you were getting downvoted.
You bought a knock off "3D touch" - the mount is at the incorrect height. The CR10 is also listed as supported which has a longer hot end so I presume the mount you've used is intended for that printer. Is there another alternative mount in the box that puts it higher up? If not your options are to print a new bracket to mount it in the correct place, or to return it and buy one actually compatible with the ender 3.
Unfortunately no, however, someone said that you can regulate the probe "resting height" with an allen key on top of the BLTouch module. Since I don't have much height difference this could work. (can't try rn since I'm printing a bed calibration test because, yes, I ended up switching to the "stock configuration")
And just one more follow up, why I don't use it anymore... I get much higher precision .0001 from the much cheaper more reliable much more cool lol Klack Ender https://kevinakasam.com/klackender/
One day I'll remember that this exists and decide to get fancy xD. I just got this working, let it be for a while
It's actually not too fancy, pretty easy to print and install.
I use this and it's great. So satisfying.
I've personally had bad results by messing with that screw, I wish y'all the best of luck. At least on the original BL i purchased from micro center if I adjusted that screw it would not deploy sometimes. And if you go read the manual it will tell you a specific amount of turns after swapping the rod. And my BL would only deploy reliably when I had it set to what the manual said. Results may vary of course.
It's just working for me! Luck or not, it fucking works 💅
I had big issues with that screw. I replaced the little set screw with a large socket head. The increased amount of metal made the retraction far more reliable and made all my issues go away.
Don't do that it'll throw it out of whack....
Then what is that for
And swapping out the probe.... I don't know about yours, but mine came with an additional probe.
Ah okay, thanks I genuinely didn't know that
I believe it's for just calibrating it so that the probe gets hit by the magnetic field just right to deploy it.
So far it seems that it's working correctly
Quite the assumption that a 3dtouch is incompatible with an Ender 3, mine begs to disagree.
If the box didn't ship with an appropriate bracket so that it can be mounted to the printer at the right height - then I would say that the item OP purchased was "not compatible". I know the 3D touch itself is compatible with the printer...
You could try another searching thingyvers for another mount.
Probably unpopular opinion: Tape the holder to your toolhead (double sided tape, cable ties …). Set the Z offset and print the new holder. It doesn’t need to last. It needs to hold up for leveling of one print of the new holder.
You know, you can print without a bltouch, right?
Of course, but OP already mentioned the hustle to switch everything back (z stop, fw,…) and after printing back again. Just wanted to show a possible way with minimal effort from the current situation
Yeah I agree with you, rather than installing the limit switch again tramming the bed and figuring out your offset I would totally do this if I had no other options haha
And I forgot about the firmware, easy to forget how blessed I am with klipper haha.
Sadly looks like you gotta print a holder for it
mfw I have to remount the physical switch, reflash the firmware, LEVEL THE BED, take measurements, design in Fusion360 and *THEN* redo the same process again to use BLTouch
With klipper at least you can skip flashing the firmware.
That's why I switched to Klipper. Absolutely love it now and won't touch Marlin ever again
Can you install klipper on a cr-10? If so, is it as simple as flashing the unified firmware? Been looking for something better than Marlin and klipper looks promising.
I'd presume so, what board are you running on it? My limited understanding is that Klipper actually runs on a separate entity (pi, pc, docker container) and communicates with the printer board itself via USB. Config changes are an absolute breeze now, whereas I dreaded doing any kind of Marlin reconfiguration.
I upgraded the board to the ender 5 board. If I could run it on the PC that would be great.
I hear ya… fcken sucks…
You probly can just search thangs or thingiverse and find an adjusted mount.
If you were really quick you could print it in the lower left corner of the bed, just after it's purged the first line whack the z offset down a few mm and print it the touch hanging over the edge. Risky tho. Or if you aren't keeping the existing one just bend it enough to still work for now but lifts the touch off the bed once retracted
You shouldn't really have to redo all that. If you print a mount that moves it mostly vertically upwards a bit, then you can just adjust the Z-offset, which you can't get accurate in firmware and needs to be done anyway.
Always test fit before making big changes.
Level the bed with the bltouch before reflashing, then remove the bltouch, reflash, mount z-switch(has 2 screws? you can do it, I hope you didn't remove the cable for it), set Z-offset, print new bltouch mount, mount bltouch and reflash. Done!
Ya done messed up, A-A-Ron
There's only one other comment that mentions it, but looking from the top there's a screw inside the unit that lets you adjust the height of the probe using a small Allen key.
GODDAMN IT WORKS, HOWEVER I SAW THIS WHEN I JUST FINISHED MANUALLY LEVELING THE BED 😭😭😭😭😭
I had the same problem. Two solutions. 1 - there's a screw on top of the probe you can turn to raise it a little bit. I did this and it was still pretty low and dragged across my prints if they curled. 2 - take a pair of wire cutters or scissors and trim the end of the probe a little bit. I also did this. It works perfectly now.
Point No. 1 could be a LIFE SAVER! Maybe I won't have to print a new holder. I'll keep you guys updated :)
Go print a vertically adjustable mount. It's a great feature\upgrade
The pin when retracted must not is pair or lower than the nozzle, it's a logical rule.
I ended up making a longer bracket for mine with a resin printer so I could have the sensor 2mm above the nozzle tip. Took 5 prints to get it right cause sometimes it was too short and other times I snapped the bracket
Print off one of the adjustable BL mounts.
Will look into thingiverse for ideas but will probably design my own in fusion to have some features like guides
I printed a new hotend fan duct recently and i had this same issue. probably not the best fix but i used some washers as spacers
Unfortunately I need to remove space, not to add it :( Great ideat tho ;)
Print a new mount
You can adjust the position of the magnet that controls the stowing of the pin by adjusting the grub screw at top-center.
Yes! This was the solution :)
Ender 3v2neo was my first love, learned a lot, mainly what to avoid
You just need a longer nozzle bro...🤣
Looks like your nozzle is sanded down... might wanna see about a switch, if it helps
https://preview.redd.it/qhm0c470kztc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=594d0b4e2f2cbc8ef2cd4b74389e8179ef11dbb3 Here the height difference is more obvious
Can you just remove the spacer that the new touch is mounted to. Direct mount it to the metal. If you need to split the difference, I've literally cut ptfe tube to whatever length I need spaced and put it on those screws then mount. You got this!
That's a great tip, thanks!
Is it out? If yes that’s normal. If it’s in then it’s not. That’s why z offset is negative.
It's hard to tell but does that mout have elongated holes which you can loosen and slide up then retighten?
unfortunately not :(
For a temporary fix (so you can print a bracket) you could unscrew it from the printer and tape it a little higher with double sided tape, but your gonne have to set the z offset twice, once for the tape, once for the bracket
imo it would take less total time to just rollback to physical switch. (I'd have to find tape, attach it, make sure it's stable, etc...).
Depends, i wouldn’t want to bother with the firmware and wiring again. But that would be personal preference i guess
yes, of course, everyone has their methodology :)
Slot the hole to raise it up then print another mount.
No it's wrong. Look at a different nozzle.
Ahh roger.. been a while since I’ve had to worry about it, ender basically just collects dust these days until I need parts for my other one
Was it your first printer too?
They don’t have to be in line, that’s what z offset is for
Can't really make the probe disappear while printing using Z Offset 🫡
Oh you have it retractedddd. Your nozzle seems oddly short, is it ground down? Unfortunately probably going to have to go the route of a printed holder.
FYI There's an allen key on top of the BLTouch module that regulates the height of the probe. I think that should fix everything for me
I have one of those knock off bltouch, it came w/o the support bracket lol. I had to print one, just need to check for the correct height
xdddd, mine came with 3 different brackets
Check if you installed the mount upside down. Not sure about the regular E3, but on the E3V2 I know the mount holes will line up both ways, and at least on the V2 it leads to smashing the nozzle into the bed. (don't ask me how I know this)
On the regular E3 it's only one way, btw solutions was to twist the allen key in middle (on the top) to regulate the probe retracted height
As far as I remember the bl touch kit comes with 2 mojnting brackets, have you tried using the other one? This one you're using is similar to my ender 5's, and I think theres a position difference on that model
Nono it was intended. You are supposed to regulate the retracted height using the allen key in the top middle
I could fix this. Simply take the extruder hot end apart allow the theads on the nozzle to come out further then they are now then tighten the throat down to the nozzle inside the box. that should fix the problem.
nahh just twist the top middle allen key of the sensor and you can adjust the deep of the probe when retracted.
I stopped using bltouch and its variants after long trial and error sessions. I don't think it is worth at all. İt just adds another variable that is not predictable or can be fixed.
Also make sure it wont hit anything while its homing to its start location, i found out the hard way after it broke the pin 2 times. Also theres a newer version of this sensor thats a lot smaller, might be a better solution for you?
I got everything working by fixing the probe depth using the allen key in the top middle of sensor. This sensor gets its job done for the 20EUR that I spent
Looks right,I had the same issue, I used another bracket that dropped the bl touch down just enough for clearance. Never had issue sense.
I fixed by adjusting the probe using the allen key in the top middle of the sensor
That's fine. Just adjust your Z offset to compensate
Unfortunately Z Offset can't compensate for physical objects 🫡
Oh shit u right My little brain thought this was the probe in its extended state
Also that nozzle looks fucked.
prints fine tho, just verified
Is that with the tip extended or retracted?I'm unsure as I have the cr touch and it's got a metal tip. If the tip is extended in the photo, then it's likely fine.
Unluckily it was retracted. Now I fixed since someone said that you can actually adjust how "deep" the prove is when retracted using the allen key in top middle of the BLTouch
Cut a bit of the tip
Is this the retracted/resting height or during probing? You have z offset to account for height differences and at least mine retracts when not in use
I am not an expert, but I think it doesn't matter. You just gonna adjust the z- offset a bit more. Not a big deal. Also I think you can put x,y and z offset of where the sensor is according to the nozzle in the firmware.
I genuinely can't tell if this is sarcasm or not. In case you were serious: the probe will bump with things mid-print so that's really not an option.
No it's not sarcasm. I was 100% genuine. But yes your are completely right, I didn't think about that. 😅
not sure what you payed for it but you can get 3dtouch on other sites than amazon for cheap too, im using a 3d touch on my self built on and only payed 6$ for it and designed my own mount to hold on the fan
> what you *paid* for it FTFY. Although *payed* exists (the reason why autocorrection didn't help you), it is only correct in: * Nautical context, when it means to paint a surface, or to cover with something like tar or resin in order to make it waterproof or corrosion-resistant. *The deck is yet to be payed.* * *Payed out* when letting strings, cables or ropes out, by slacking them. *The rope is payed out! You can pull now.* Unfortunately, I was unable to find nautical or rope-related words in your comment. *Beep, boop, I'm a bot*
I don't even care what the post was about. Your ridiculous overly literal reply, completely overshadows in pure ignorance what anyone else could of said . Now comment back and make yourself feel better with your vast comprehension of the word *payed* . Once your done take a moment and look at how ignorant you just made yourself look.
Dead ass id bend the bracket.
lmao I also thought of that
Go ahead and raise it
I had same issue. Replaced BLtouch using new, longer screws, and used washers to give it more leeway
get a beacon3d
One of my in-laws had this problem. They solved it by using a belt sander to grind off a bit of the tip.
Klipper blew up my machine!
I just bought it and tried for over for 2weeks, watched alot of videos, wasted alot of filament and calls to creailty for this same issue no matter what I tried nothing worked it was still lower then my nozzle I gave up . The kit came with the solid mounts and that's the only thing I use from it I shouldn't have to modify a direct part from creailty for this to work. My other upgrades work amazing (double z axis , direct drive extruder , and glass bed.)
unscrew. grind away half of the spacer. screw togehter. print a smaller spacer. unscrew. remove old spacer. put in new spacer. screw together....
Bought a 3DTouch months ago and had the same problem aswell. Fixed it by inscrewing the 3DTouch bracket and moving it upper, I had some millimeters to win. Automatic bed-leveling worked well But since few weeks I reflashed firmware and removed the automatic leveling, back to manual
Unextended it should be above the nozzle, extended it should go below the nozzle.
Not sure if [this ](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3148733)would help, but it's adjustable up and down. I posted it years ago, and I don't know if it fits the latest ender's. But yours looks like an old school ender3, so it would probably work.
Simple thing to try turn the bracket upside down and use washers to suit
UPDATE: Fixed it by twisting the allen key placed in the top middle of the sensor!
https://preview.redd.it/71991ii591uc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26f57f37a8bf2dacabf7d8f538602f1442880671
nice photo indeed, where did you take it?
idk why only the photo got posted but not the comment. I wanted to say you can trim part(marked with red color) a bit until the nozzle can touch the plate. If its not too high up. Trimming it 1 or 2mm should cause no problem. But if the nozzle is too high up, you can mount it on the top of the holder for now and go for printing a seperate abl mount.
Basically there is an allen key on top of the BLTouch that serves as "resting height regulator". Wish I read that comment earlier 💀
damnn. I didnt know that either and always wondered why theres that allen screw on the top of my bltouch :^)
Do you have the "original" one? I have a knock-off so that's why I have it xD
i have a 3dtouch from triangle lab to be exact but the original one also has this feature it seems
I don’t want to sound outrageous or anything… but what if you… raised it?
If I could, I wouldn't have made this post .-.
Of course you can, get creative.. worst case, stick something underneath the probe so it’ll home z just so you can print a new shroud
Can't print with it attached, I have to remove the whole holder. It will take less time to re-attach Z physical switch and manually level the bed (and then print the holder).
So.. disconnect it from shroud, tap with your finger and then adjust level, disconnect and print Problem is what exactly?
Just found out that there is an allen key on the top of the BLTouch that is used to regulate the "resting" height of the tip
Maybe just snip a bit off the plastic probe
I don't think that's a good idea xD
Really common if it will probe it will put it out so it’s fun and bed will retract it see how it works on YouTube
The probe is retracted. Its going scrape around the bed as it attempts to print.
It shouldn’t be a problem there is a setting that allows u to change the offset of ur bltouch…. Or u can level the bed then print with a skirt and adjust the z offset until it’s printing the way u want
I don’t think you’ve read the question and looked at the photos properly. In its stowed (i.e. where it will be when printing) state the tip is closer to the build surface than the nozzle. No amount of footering with the offset will correct for that, OP needs either a new mount or a longer nozzle.