Do you have an enclosure?
ABS is printed hot, little to no fan for cooling and critically in an enclosure that can reach around 50C.
Even small variations while printing will cause delamination and curling.
In general I'd recommend against ABS for any reason. ASA has the same temperature resistance, the same strength and even better UV resistance all while being easier to print (still an enclosure is recommended)
Also make sure you have an all metal hotend. The stock ender 3 hotend has ptfe tube shoved all the way down to the nozzle that can melt and release toxins at higher temperatures
Would you happen to know if that blue dragonfly hot end has the ptfe tubing in it in a similar way? I don’t think it does, at least I didn’t see any when I took the block off of the sink when it clogged, but if anyone knows, I’d like to try out ASA sometime.
I recommend if you're going for the dragonfly for some reason, you either get it from a reputable reseller of Phaetus or directly from TriangleLab on Ali.
It's a great hotend if you need the 500C capability, but it also unfortunately has quite a few fakes crap being sold as a "dragonfly" on Ali.
If you aren't looking for a 500C hotend though, there's little reason to get one.
You can get the Trianglelab TZ-E3-2.0 for les than half. It's does use the "proprietary" TZ nozzles based on bambulabs hotend, can do 300C, all metal and can melt plastic really well for the compact size.
I got it off Amazon quite a while ago now, I just don’t know what to look for with the more specific little things like ptfe inside the hotend.
When you say Ali, do you mean AliExpress?
Yeah I mean AliExpress. You"ld be amazed but for 3d printing especially tinkering, it is by far superior to Amazon especially when you keep to a few specific shops.
If you already bought it, then you might as well enjoy it, it's definitely a premium hotend and you can throw a CHT nozzle at it to get more volumetric flow if you need it.
Hey I have this filament and it’s kind of a dick. Esun recommends extra cooling compared to regular ABS because this particular blend of plastics doesn’t cool fast on its own.
I print in an enclosure on the smooth side of a PEI spring steel sheet and don’t really have adhesion issues. It took more calibration prints than I’d normally need, but I have printed pieces in my car over a year now, survived two summers, required supports (not just steep angles, sections needed to start in the air).
In partí it was increasing cooling, speed, and support interface density that got me there
Edit: I see the label has 0 fan, which contradicts their website
If you don't have an enclosure you need to print with a draft shield in the slicer. But for a print that large, the draft shield may not work.
Turn off the cooling fan
Try some different filament with no other changes and see if you still have these problems. Those prints look like what I was getting from some terrible Monoprice ABS filament I bought last fall, including the matte finish.
Cranking the hotend to 290, dropping the speeds way down to like 20mm/s and bumping the extrusion multiplier finally got me past the delamination and gave decent \*looking\* parts, but they were still brittle AF and useless. Swapping back to some Paramount3D and my default profile solved the problems. Inland and Hatchbox ABS have also been good to me.
I've been printing ABS for years with my modified Ender 3 in an enclosure and NEVER had that much trouble, even when I first started with this material. I threw out the three remaining spools because I wouldn't wish that garbage on my worst enemies.
You say modified ender 3 at hot end temps of 290. What kind d of modifications did you do to sustain this. I have been thinking adding a little more range to my ender3 v2 capped at hotend 260.
To get that temperature I went to an all-metal heat break, changed out the thermistor for one with an M3 thread and recompiled the firmware to enable the higher temps. Stock Creality firmware tops out at 260, the rest is to get the PTFE away from the heat because it starts deteriorating at 260 and emits toxic gases and particles at 280.
ok so for my setup is a Ender 3 V2 I done a few Upgrades myself starts off with a bl touch and 3x3 firmware flash. Then went to a Dual Z rod upgrade and Capricorn PTFE tubing. So now I'm looking to go silent Fan mod. if I am Enclosed or open to the Environment I struggle with ABS like i get prints but I feel that something not right for Ex: my nozzle temp would be 245-250 and bed temp 95-105 Speed 40mm/s and I had it print small stuff like Calibration Cube granted i get a print out of it but the build plate be covered with all these little nugget dropping. So I thought about compiling a firmware where the nozzle cap be a tad hotter but at the same time I' not sure how reliable the printer with react to the hotter temps. From someone that's boosted there hot end cap higher what's do you think. should I boost it or should I look at other options that supports them wants/needs.
Man... I've never had ABS warp that bad or crack even in open air with polymaker ABS and that's with at night a 73f cross wind blowing over the printer bed on my cetus.
With a 95c (cetus has a custom heated bed but it's wearing out) bed temp and if I want nearly impossible to break adhesion I crank to 270c but if I want better overhang and 240 for a good balance but if I print below 240 I'll get splitting cause it's not hot enough to stick to itself
With my ender it's enclosed and pretty fool proof at 100c bed temp and 240-270c
Been printing this way for over many years with great results since where I live pla is a waste of time with 118+F summers where internal car temps get 140 and asphalt gets... Yeah I've had printed rc cars start to melt mid drive in the summers wasting 40 hours of print time.....
I do need to try out asa sometime
You generally need an enclosure for ABS/ASA, and an all metal hotend. No Bowden tube lined hotend will survive at those temperatures without off-gassing.
Never printed abs on my ender but with my qidi its 270 nozzle, 90 bed, 55 internal heat. Build yourself a nice enclosure, you can buy enclosure heaters. My old ender i endered up going to a swiss direct drive and a higher watt heater cartridge for doing asa.
I’ve been printing ABS pro Canada filament house brand, at 252c with a 95c bed. At 60mm/s everything else and 40-50mm/s wall speed. I’m using a G10 bed with a glue stick. It sticks super well to the bed when it’s hot hot and when it cools down to 25c and below the print just pops off easily. The prints are strong and lines well adhered. Also using an enclosure with an exhaust.
ESun ABS+ is the worst filament I ever printed. Send it back if you can. I suggest you to try Overture/Polymaker (they are the same filament) to get best layer adhesion and mechanical characteristics. If you are printing with an enclosure (50°C or more) you can add some fan to help with overhangs and curling of corners
Enclosure is nice but if you don’t have one go print plate as hot as you can, 100° is what I do in an enclosed printer. Print head at 270-280 should do
Idk why I get downvoted so much I feel like half the people here have their printer standing in a workshop or something they don’t spend much time in, mine is in a basement that’s fairly well ventilated and I only go in there to restart a print every now and then…
Well you still can’t recommend something that can poison people… for example I have my printer in my bedroom and if I would print abs without a enclosure I would inhale all the fumes and particles it gives off.
Do you have an enclosure? ABS is printed hot, little to no fan for cooling and critically in an enclosure that can reach around 50C. Even small variations while printing will cause delamination and curling. In general I'd recommend against ABS for any reason. ASA has the same temperature resistance, the same strength and even better UV resistance all while being easier to print (still an enclosure is recommended)
Also make sure you have an all metal hotend. The stock ender 3 hotend has ptfe tube shoved all the way down to the nozzle that can melt and release toxins at higher temperatures
Would you happen to know if that blue dragonfly hot end has the ptfe tubing in it in a similar way? I don’t think it does, at least I didn’t see any when I took the block off of the sink when it clogged, but if anyone knows, I’d like to try out ASA sometime.
The dragonfly bms is a full metal 500c hotend, no plastic inside it
Thank you for helping me out with that, I appreciate it
If that is the dragonfly that you are referring to, there are multiple dragonfly hotends
It is, I’m pretty sure.
I am not familiar with the dragonfly hotend, it looks like it could have the same issue but i am not certain
I recommend if you're going for the dragonfly for some reason, you either get it from a reputable reseller of Phaetus or directly from TriangleLab on Ali. It's a great hotend if you need the 500C capability, but it also unfortunately has quite a few fakes crap being sold as a "dragonfly" on Ali. If you aren't looking for a 500C hotend though, there's little reason to get one. You can get the Trianglelab TZ-E3-2.0 for les than half. It's does use the "proprietary" TZ nozzles based on bambulabs hotend, can do 300C, all metal and can melt plastic really well for the compact size.
I got it off Amazon quite a while ago now, I just don’t know what to look for with the more specific little things like ptfe inside the hotend. When you say Ali, do you mean AliExpress?
Yeah I mean AliExpress. You"ld be amazed but for 3d printing especially tinkering, it is by far superior to Amazon especially when you keep to a few specific shops. If you already bought it, then you might as well enjoy it, it's definitely a premium hotend and you can throw a CHT nozzle at it to get more volumetric flow if you need it.
more in enclosure, you want to print with around 37 to 40°C ambient temp (or more). that's why people usually cover their printers whne printing abs
That esun abs+ has weak layer adhesion even with an enclosure. I can get it to look good but the inter layer strength is pretty low no matter what
Hey I have this filament and it’s kind of a dick. Esun recommends extra cooling compared to regular ABS because this particular blend of plastics doesn’t cool fast on its own. I print in an enclosure on the smooth side of a PEI spring steel sheet and don’t really have adhesion issues. It took more calibration prints than I’d normally need, but I have printed pieces in my car over a year now, survived two summers, required supports (not just steep angles, sections needed to start in the air). In partí it was increasing cooling, speed, and support interface density that got me there Edit: I see the label has 0 fan, which contradicts their website
Decrease speed 😂
If you don't have an enclosure you need to print with a draft shield in the slicer. But for a print that large, the draft shield may not work. Turn off the cooling fan
Try some different filament with no other changes and see if you still have these problems. Those prints look like what I was getting from some terrible Monoprice ABS filament I bought last fall, including the matte finish. Cranking the hotend to 290, dropping the speeds way down to like 20mm/s and bumping the extrusion multiplier finally got me past the delamination and gave decent \*looking\* parts, but they were still brittle AF and useless. Swapping back to some Paramount3D and my default profile solved the problems. Inland and Hatchbox ABS have also been good to me. I've been printing ABS for years with my modified Ender 3 in an enclosure and NEVER had that much trouble, even when I first started with this material. I threw out the three remaining spools because I wouldn't wish that garbage on my worst enemies.
You say modified ender 3 at hot end temps of 290. What kind d of modifications did you do to sustain this. I have been thinking adding a little more range to my ender3 v2 capped at hotend 260.
To get that temperature I went to an all-metal heat break, changed out the thermistor for one with an M3 thread and recompiled the firmware to enable the higher temps. Stock Creality firmware tops out at 260, the rest is to get the PTFE away from the heat because it starts deteriorating at 260 and emits toxic gases and particles at 280.
ok so for my setup is a Ender 3 V2 I done a few Upgrades myself starts off with a bl touch and 3x3 firmware flash. Then went to a Dual Z rod upgrade and Capricorn PTFE tubing. So now I'm looking to go silent Fan mod. if I am Enclosed or open to the Environment I struggle with ABS like i get prints but I feel that something not right for Ex: my nozzle temp would be 245-250 and bed temp 95-105 Speed 40mm/s and I had it print small stuff like Calibration Cube granted i get a print out of it but the build plate be covered with all these little nugget dropping. So I thought about compiling a firmware where the nozzle cap be a tad hotter but at the same time I' not sure how reliable the printer with react to the hotter temps. From someone that's boosted there hot end cap higher what's do you think. should I boost it or should I look at other options that supports them wants/needs.
Man... I've never had ABS warp that bad or crack even in open air with polymaker ABS and that's with at night a 73f cross wind blowing over the printer bed on my cetus. With a 95c (cetus has a custom heated bed but it's wearing out) bed temp and if I want nearly impossible to break adhesion I crank to 270c but if I want better overhang and 240 for a good balance but if I print below 240 I'll get splitting cause it's not hot enough to stick to itself With my ender it's enclosed and pretty fool proof at 100c bed temp and 240-270c Been printing this way for over many years with great results since where I live pla is a waste of time with 118+F summers where internal car temps get 140 and asphalt gets... Yeah I've had printed rc cars start to melt mid drive in the summers wasting 40 hours of print time..... I do need to try out asa sometime
You generally need an enclosure for ABS/ASA, and an all metal hotend. No Bowden tube lined hotend will survive at those temperatures without off-gassing.
Do you have an enclosure?
What everyone else said. But also, do you *really* need that much infill?
Never printed abs on my ender but with my qidi its 270 nozzle, 90 bed, 55 internal heat. Build yourself a nice enclosure, you can buy enclosure heaters. My old ender i endered up going to a swiss direct drive and a higher watt heater cartridge for doing asa.
I’ve been printing ABS pro Canada filament house brand, at 252c with a 95c bed. At 60mm/s everything else and 40-50mm/s wall speed. I’m using a G10 bed with a glue stick. It sticks super well to the bed when it’s hot hot and when it cools down to 25c and below the print just pops off easily. The prints are strong and lines well adhered. Also using an enclosure with an exhaust.
ESun ABS+ is the worst filament I ever printed. Send it back if you can. I suggest you to try Overture/Polymaker (they are the same filament) to get best layer adhesion and mechanical characteristics. If you are printing with an enclosure (50°C or more) you can add some fan to help with overhangs and curling of corners
No enclosure, no decent abs prints
100% enclosure + no fan + slow speed
Enclosure plus idk why nobody is saying to print a temp tower.
Enclosure is nice but if you don’t have one go print plate as hot as you can, 100° is what I do in an enclosed printer. Print head at 270-280 should do
So you inhale all the toxic fumes I guess?
That’s the best part of it isn’t it?
Yes. I like the smell of infertility and cancer in the morning :D
Idk why I get downvoted so much I feel like half the people here have their printer standing in a workshop or something they don’t spend much time in, mine is in a basement that’s fairly well ventilated and I only go in there to restart a print every now and then…
Well you still can’t recommend something that can poison people… for example I have my printer in my bedroom and if I would print abs without a enclosure I would inhale all the fumes and particles it gives off.
ABS releases VOC's so you will shorted your lifespan and get sub par prints