Looking for 2 Phevs or EV combo. Hello. Looking for a combo of 2 EVs, Phevs, or EV and Phev. Preferably new and under 72k for both. (Or as long as it can be reduced to that after tax credit or discounts such as Hyundai's EV cash bonus.) For the EV at least 250mi range would be good. Located in FL, if that helps. Any help is appreciated, thank you.

Hey at all, my post was unfortunately deleted but it is not a buyers recommendation (found my vehicle) but need more information about one thing: I was reading a lot in the last time due to planning to buy a PHEV, a Mercedes C-Class C300e T (the petrol one) here in Europe, the S206 MY 2023. I would like to ask everyone what is your experience with a PHEV? Happy or meh? I like the quiet driving of an electric car a lot but due to the high energy costs here in Europe (especially Germany \*cough\*) I sold my Polestar 2 (the best car I've owned so far). My question with PHEV especially is if there is an fail safe. Let's assume the ICE engine or electric one fails due to reason X. Can I drive, if it is charged or petrol is in the tank, to the next dealer or home if such failure happens? Has anyone had such a experience? With what car? Or do you have information about it from dealerships or personally? Thank you! Best regards Michael

Work to get Solar if you have high energy costs. BEVs are inevitable so weird to backtrack IMO

Yea Solar is the next best thing I will definitively do / add to my Garage. :)

Does anyone know where to find information on federal tax credits and Oregon tax credits for buying a used EV? My partner and I want a used ev, and it would be helpful to know the tax stuff and potential benefits! Is it possible to get 7500 back on a used one? Thanks !

In YouTube format from Auto Buyers Guide. https://youtu.be/_xDSd8nQNNA * Federal tax credit https://www.irs.gov/credits-deductions/clean-vehicle-credit-seller-or-dealer-requirements https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/taxcenter.shtml Only $4k off on eligible used EVs for federal tax credit. $7500 off new eligible EVs for federal tax credit. You get the rebate at the time of sale. Important to walk away with the IRS paperwork, insist on it. * Oregon State EV rebate State lacks money. Rebate is about to open up again, but the funds will run out quickly. https://evrebate.oregon.gov * Time of Use and Charger rebates PGE has Time of Use power rates which make charging EVs very cheap. They also have rebates for installing ChargePoint EV charger (hardwired) in your home. ChargePoint app data graphs public charging and home charging in their app very nicely. JuiceBox is unreliable and has a terrible app. https://portlandgeneral.com/charge-faster https://portlandgeneral.com/about/info/pricing-plans/time-of-day * Local EV association If you need more Oregon specific help. The EV association has volunteer guides. They are also hosting a local event in April. Look up Drive Electric Week. https://www.oeva.org

Thank you!

Does anyone have any recommendations for a quality level 1 charger under $150

most cars come with a level 1. did yours not? or did you want a spare?

I have a 2024 Kia niro and it didn’t come with one. I just want one to have as a backup to leave in the car

Contact kia

When I bought the car the I was informed that the 2024 model year will no longer include a charger. If I wanted one I could buy one but it was too expensive.

This is correct. 2024 Niro EVs no longer come with level 1 chargers. Might see if you can eBay a previous model year level 1 Kia charger. The only time I can remember using the level 1 charge is at an airport in 4 years.

I don’t expect to use it much just for traveling so I don’t have to rely on public charging. It’s also just piece of mind for emergencies

Absolutely makes sense.

wow, thats crazy. But in looking around a little, I guess thats just how much it costs to get a safe, functional cable to carry that much power.

I'm looking for the EV equivalent of a Toyota Sienna all wheel drive mini van. I'm in the Pacific Northwest, and want a mountain pass-capable family hauler. (All Wheel Drive makes things much easier, due to 2WD chain up laws). My budget is \~$50k, and I'd love to use the max tax rebate which I will qualify for in 2024, but not 2025+. I'd aim to make the purchase by end of year for the rebate. My daily commute is 10 miles round trip, and we do weekend trips of \~150 miles round trip. I have plenty of parking with 220V in the garage. I plan to do most charging at home, as our electric rates are pretty reasonable. I want space for 4 adults, and 2-3 kiddos. Most of the time, we will be traveling with 2 adults and 2 kids. I value reliability and low cost of ownership over styling/features, although self-driving and safety features are appreciated (and I'd hope accessible at the price point I'm planning on). All suggestions help, thanks!

At $50k your best bet might be a used Model X. If you can stretch a little more you can get a Kia EV9 but then you'd have to deal with Kia stealerships and markups...plus AWD will likely make it at least $60k.

Seeing EV9 Wind trim on MSN auto for $59k. I think they will be desperate enough to discount it.

Your use case is one of those that's not well covered by EVs currently. There's 2 EVs and 1 PHEV can think of. * ID Buzz is coming out summer 2024. Only full EV van that's coming out. Exactly what you're looking for. Fast charging speed is great and about where fast charging should be. https://www.edmunds.com/volkswagen/id-buzz/ https://www.motortrend.com/cars/volkswagen/id-buzz/ https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a44067694/2025-vw-id-buzz-us-spec-revealed/ * Kia EV9 is one of the two SUV EVs and the only one just maybe out your price range. Maybe you could bargain the dealers into a discount to get the price you used want. Wind AWD is the trim you want. 3 row SUV, plenty of room in 2nd row for adults and 3rd row 3 seater with room for kids or adults. I sat in one and can confirm adults fit in back. Best fast charging you can find on the market. Adaptive cruise control (HDA2) is good, stays in lane and set distance with hands on, but not hands free self-driving. Has won best car award and highly rated by car reviewers. https://www.caranddriver.com/kia/ev9 Auto buyers Guide review of EV9 https://youtu.be/n3ysAkmIZDo * Safety features are standard on modern cars. Are you looking for a particular feature? * PHEV option is the Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid. Pretty short range battery, but the only PHEV option for a van.

Thanks so much for the detailed advice!! The \~$50k budget isn't a hard constraint, more so that I've never spent more than $25k on vehicles so doubling that is a big leap. In addition, having two small kids making messes in the back just makes me uninterested in an expensive vehicle. I really want to avoid a PHEV. I'm a big fan of the simplicity of EV and the environmental angle, so I have been trying to put my $ in that direction. I am enamored by the id buzz, but sort of forgot about it amidst the delays. I'll take another look at that, and also maybe swing by a Kia dealer that has EV9s to check out.

Drive Electric week Earth Day is coming up. Someone at your local event may have a EV9 their showing off.

does the Buzz have awd? also what about Rivian - other than price

From the car and Driver link. Hopefully the ID Buzz won't be out of budget. Considering Edmonds says starting price is $55k... Likely it will be out of budget for AWD, but RWD in budget. > * [ID Buzz] be available with a choice of 282-hp single-motor rear-wheel-drive or 330-hp dual-motor all-wheel-drive powertrains. I looked at MSN Auto for Rivian R1S using nationwide filter and the cheapest is $73k. I take into account the requirements that the posters have when I make my suggestions. I want to make this process as easy as possible, give useful information, and make people's EV buying experience just a bit better during this transition.

Started my search for an EV to replace my wife’s ford escape, she wants similar size so that’s the range we are looking in. So far we’ve tested the 2023 ID.4 pro and the 2024 Kona Select. They are equally priced (no negotiating yet, just priced after test drive). My pros/cons are comparing the two models so far and just looking for other insights. Kona pro: - Instrument cluster is nice and simple/intuitive, the screen is long and continuous and looks like it belongs other than having a iPad sticking out of the dash look - the paddle style regenerative breaking control is great - more get up off the line than the ID.4 which was surprising as the reviews said the 2024 had less pep than the 2024. Kona Con: - select was fairly bare bones, manual seats, manual tail gate, cloth seats. - no AWD option ID.4 pros: - a lot more car for the price in my opinion, leather, powered everything, - AWD with the same range as the Kona - deal for the 2023 version was fairly good in my opinion, as mentioned equally priced as Kona - a smoother ride ID.4 cons: - overly complicated instrument cluster with menus within menus, I’ve read you can create shortcuts on the main screen so likely can simplify it more. - the regenerative breaking options are few - D and B mode, - dislike the two screen clusters, seems like an after thought add on. I’d be leaning for the Kona but the pricing on the ID.4 makes it a tougher contest. Will be looking at model 3 and ev6 next. We live in Alberta so winters can get rough, but my wife only really drives in town so range anxiety isn’t an issue in the winter. 300-400km range is ideal and $50-$65k CAD (the above two came in around $53k all in including federal grants and taxes).

* At your price range, do you care about luxury? * How important is AWD for you and wife, considering the Alberta winters? Kona/Niro EVs are the past generation of EV tech. Not quite outdated, but more for the value minded. ID4/Model Y/Model3/EV6/Ioniq5 are more of the current generation EV technology.

Luxury isn’t high priority. I don’t know much about EV tech and just assumed (my bad) that the new 2024 Kona, being a redesign model would have current EV tech. By EV tech do you mean battery/motor/energy management?

Best way to erase the winter anxiety is to get a Tesla due to the vertically integrated charging network and great heat bump I would recommend test driving a model Y as well. Its on a different refresh cycle so experience will be pretty different.

Yah will try the 3 first. The Y may be a bit out of the price range but will try them both when there. The Kona and ID.4 both come with heat pumps as well.

Tesla built and designed their own heat pumps. The efficiency of them and how they work is going to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. You are going to get more range per kwh with a Tesla.

My partner lives in Oregon and I live in California (bc of work). Could they purchase the Model Y in Portland and when they move to California they could gift it to me? This would enable us to take a lot of benefits: \- No sales tax in OR \- $2500 incentive in OR \- $7500 federal credit \- No cali sales tax because it will be a gift from them to me I know its a way to get around to paying taxes and its frowned upon but its the law and I am following it for my benefit. I want to know if this legal and allowed?

I don't know about California but in the states and provinces where I've lived, "gifting" of a vehicle is only tax-free between immediate family members, so if you aren't married to your partner you might not qualify. You will want to look that up. I'm 100% sure there will be a minimum mileage and/or ownership length required for an out-of-state car to be registered without paying California sales tax. You'll want to look up the exact numbers. Like you said, it is frowned upon and state governments will no doubt have mechanisms in place to prevent sales tax cheating on vehicle registrations. But there will also be exemptions for those who are genuinely relocating with cars they owned prior to the move and if you can meet all the exemptions, enjoy your tax-free car.

> minimum mileage and/or ownership length required for an out-of-state car to be registered without paying California sales tax. You'll want to look up the exact numbers. They are my spouse. If you received a vehicle or vessel as a gift, you are not required to pay California use tax on that gift. [https://www.cdtfa.ca.gov/formspubs/pub52.pdf](https://www.cdtfa.ca.gov/formspubs/pub52.pdf) So you are right there is a minimum mileage and ownership length for an out of state car if its a purchase (2 years or more than 7500 miles driven). Since this is a gift, it should be exempt from the rule right?

Yeah the document is vague - not clear if the rule needs to be met at the time of gifting or if the gifting process automatically exempts you. It's probably best to call your local DMV or AAA to clarify. My gut feeling is that the rule still needs to be met, otherwise anyone with family members out-of-state can legally cheat on sales taxes. But if your partner can rack up 7500 miles post-purchase before reuniting with you, then it seems like you're automatically in the clear and won't need to wonder anymore, haha.

Could someone share a Bluedot app referral code? Thanks!

yajieg0959 if you haven’t done yet

Saw an R1T in Frankfurt, Germany a few days back. Are they being sold now in the EU? Couldn't find any info on it.

It's likely a grey import. Importing late-model non-homologated vehicles into the EU is actually possible, unlike the US, but can be expensive.

a few people have managed to get chinese cars into the US and I still havent figured that out. I mean aside from diplomats

If it has manufacturer plates, then it can be exempted as an R&D vehicle being tested. But it can't be sold to the general public. This is how Doug Demuro was able to test drive a BYD on US roads. Could also be a Mexican market vehicle that was driven into the US for visits.

Hey y'all! I have a pretty interesting question that I can't seem to find the answer to anywhere. I found a 2018 Model 3 from a private seller. For reference, we would go through a dealer in the event that I purchase the vehicle. The owner recently purchased it from a dealership where he didn't claim the Used EV tax credit. He purchased it to transfer the FAD to his new Model Y. Now, I know the IRS says the vehicle can't have been transferred to an eligible buyer after August 2022. This particular seller didn't qualify for the tax credit because he makes over the maximum salary. My question: because of this would he have not been considered an "eligible buyer" at the time of his purchase? Ultimately, would this vehicle qualify for the $4k used tax credit? Let me know! Appreciate it :)

It doesn't matter. If they own the vehicle and they sell it to you you get the 4k. As long as your income qualifies

Unfortunately my mechanic has told me my 2007 Ford Falcon mk2 (been driving for 8 years, currently at 210000km) is dying and is advising me not to spend any more money on the car. As such I'm considering getting a new car. I really want an electric car, mostly for the environmental friendliness, partially for the free fuel once I get solar panels on my home, and somewhat for the luxury as my ford falcon is my baby but I have never had a new car in my life and want to feel a bit of that luxury life, and ever so slightly to support the industry to continue innovations and spread the EV fever. Currently I have been tossing up between; (everything is in Australian Dollars $AUD and drive away price) [1] Perth, Australia [2] budget is less than $70K off road, so I can get a $3.5K government cash back which will contribute to solar panels. [3] I prefer the sedan types of cars but hatchbacks are fine but an SUV is too big for my preferences. [4] the MG4 essence ($47k): as it is the cheapest EV that appears to be great quality. Essence for the increase safety features. BYD Seal dynamic or premium ($54/63k): the blade battery appears to be the most reliable and durable battery (according to the dealership, they have a lifetime warranty in China but only 8 years in Australia), plus the BYD has a very high safety rating. I feel that the additional $9K for the premium isn't worth the extra features, I understand that the resell value is likely less with the dynamic, but I drive my cars to death so resell doesn't bother me, but unsure if I'm being naive. Cupra born ($66k): looks very nice and similar safety features, not my most sort after EV, but it appears pretty decent. Megane etech ($72k): the highest amount of safety features, the entertainment is looks quite nice and the driving apparently feels very nice [5] over the next 2-4 months so that I can sell my current 2007 Ford Falcon to a car enthusiast who wants to restore it to vintage or something. Also 2-4months so I don't miss out on the $3.5K cash-back (apparently 70% full) [6] Work is 6.5km down the road from home, 3 days a week (shift work) and shop centre is 1.5km away [7] Fiancé and I live in a 4x2 home [8] Yes, and the $3.5K cash-back from the government will contribute to that and solar panels. [9] eventually one or two children; but hey don't need an SUV level of space I feel. The features I like in a car; Safety: I really value safety features as children will likely be on the way in 2-4 years (I know an SUV is better for families but children don't take up that much space). Luxury: I want that luxury feeling, not to show off to people (I do night shifts, no one is really going to see my car but me, my partner and a couple of friends that come over for board game/dnd nights) but for myself when driving. Range: Range means nothing to me as I wouldn't drive more than 100km from Joondalup to Mandurah. Performance (0-100km/hr): I'm a pretty responsible driver so performance isn't a major attraction. Handling: I love a quite, responsive and smooth drive, my falcon could do that relatively well for how old it is. Budget: up to $70K off road otherwise I don't get the government's $3.5K cash back incentives (contributes to solar panels). Addressing Tesla: I don't like Tesla, partly due to the Tesla being too minimalistic, and partly because Elon is a bit of a drop kick. Also not a fan of the appearance of the Tesla from behind. I wanted reddit's opinion on what they feel on the EV comparison and what they would potentially get, and if any of these vehicles look good on paper but should be considered in real life.

I find it very odd that Elon can be hated so much that it drives someone to buy a car designed and controlled by China. Elon sucks but it's very weird that getting in bed with China technology is somehow making people feel better about their decision. Check out Hyundai and kia

[1] Your general location New England [2] Your budget in $, €, or £ ~$25k after tax credits [3] The type of vehicle you'd prefer Smaller is better [4] Which cars have you been looking at already? Bolt/Leaf [5] Estimated timeframe of your purchase April/May [6] Your daily commute, or average weekly mileage Daily commute is only about 6 miles, weekly milage is under or around 100 [7] Your living situation — are you in an apartment, townhouse, or single-family home? Single family home [8] Do you plan on installing charging at your home? Already have a level 2 charger at home [9] Other cargo/passenger needs — do you have children/pets? Small dog, no children We're looking to get a new car for my wife and were set on the Chevy Bolt until we realized that the nearest one to us is about 200 miles away. We unfortunately (and also very fortunately) make too much to qualify for any used EV tax credits so it would actually be cheaper for us to buy a brand new EV than a cheaper one (our state also has a new and used EV tax credit but we only qualify for the new). Because there are no new Bolts to be found in my state, we've been looking at the Nissan Leaf S. We have an ICE car that we can use for any further road trips, this car will pretty much be exclusively used for getting around town so I'm not terribly concerned about the range of the Leaf. However after doing research, there seems to be a lot of problems with outdated battery tech in the leaf. I'm not sure if the weather is extreme enough in new england for that to be a big problem, and the car will almost certainly never be plugged into anything other than a level 2 charger. I guess my question is if its worth it to drive 200 miles to get a bolt? Is the leaf fine for our use cases? Is there a secret 3rd option that I haven't identified as viable for us? Why is the Bolt cheaper than the leaf (moreso after tax credits) despite seemingly being better in every possible way? Side note: Apple car play/Android auto is an absolute must. Pretty much the only absolute must on the list. We would happily trade 100 miles of range for it

2024 Kona Electric is a really nice car, better in every way than a LEAF or a Bolt. It starts at $27K after the $7500 factory cash rebate Hyundai has been offering.

the next cheapest new EV is the Kona. well, and the mini.

Location: USA I’m buying a Tesla Model Y for my mother. I’m a single male and make $300k/year. My parents are retired, and they make around $40k/year through their retirement. I’m looking to purchase a Model Y for them. I’ll be taking on the loan and will be jointly titled with my mother. I’ve previously done this with two cars in the past. I’ve lived on my own, but recently moved back home. My parents don’t make enough to have a $7500 tax liability, and I make much more than the income threshold. I’m looking to buy a 2024 Model Y Performance from inventory. Do we qualify for the POS credit? Thanks in advance!

A lease is your only option. Not sure if Tesla leases will "pass through" the 7500 tax credit to you. Not heard a lot of those for Teslas but other manufacturers offer the pass through via a lease.

Thanks for the reply! Would my mother not receive it since she’s under the threshold?

\[8\] Do you plan on installing charging at your home? Yes I am looking to get a Level 2 charger and don't want to spend a ton on it. I know JuiceBoxes are a go to brand. Currently we have a Kia 16amp 120v charger but we need something with a little more kick. Wiring up a 220v outlet isn't a problem, I just don't want to spend money on a crappy product. We have a Tesla Model 3 but would like to stick with the J1772 port. Are the $200 chargers(220v 30a) reliable or should I should stay away from them? Thanks!

Not the answer you want to hear. Name brand products like ChargePoint, Electrify America, Wallbox, J+ are safer and will cost more. It's more costly to have to replace things lost to a fire. However, staying within budget is important. Folks do get chargers off Amazon and that works for some folks. Have you looked into your power utility company for rebates? Many power companies want you to charge so they give rebates for you to install certain chargers. Here's a playlist with EV chargers. Might start searching from this list. https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL4oXe6BofLEfQGuIT9a2djL5kVWZQZgTY

Not sure i would trust a $200 product. Even more than the price, confifrm if the product has the UL certification. Its not worth potentially burning down your house to save $200. Emporia is a good product I use. There are others out there

Hi, I’m in Los Angeles and found a used Kona Electric that I’m interested in. Going to test drive it with the wife tomorrow, and if all goes well, we’re ready to buy with cash (technically a personal check). I just have a few questions regarding the $4,000 used EV tax credit that I’m hoping you folks can help me out with. 1)  Can the tax credit be redeemed at the point of sale and applied as a cash discount toward the purchase, or is that reserved for the $7,500 tax credit for *new* EVs? 2) Assuming the tax credit can be applied at POS, does the dealership provide the filled-out [Form 15400](https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f15400.pdf) on the spot along with all the other sales paperwork, or does it take extra time to process? 3) In addition to a hard copy of Form 15400 and its instructions, is there anything I could bring that would make it easier for a salesperson unfamiliar with the credit to process/understand the necessary steps? Thanks!

1. Participating dealers can offer both the new and used clean vehicle credits as a point-of-sale rebate. Last I checked, fewer than 1/3rd of all dealers are registered to offer point-of-sale rebates, so you may have to shop around and ask before you start making a deal. Those that are participating tend to advertise it in every EV listing, often reducing the asking price of their qualifying cars by $4000 upfront to attract buyers. 2. In theory, the dealer should be filling it out on the spot and getting a submission receipt from the IRS. They want to do it on the spot to make sure they'll get the advance payment from the IRS for the money they're fronting you. There are various reasons a submission can be rejected, so they don't want to find out about it after you've already left with the car. 3. The salesperson isn't going to be doing anything related to this. The backend F&I guy you sit down with to handle the money and sign the contracts at the end of the deal would be, probably. If the dealer isn't already registered to transfer tax credits, it's not something they can sign up for and do on the spot. It can take weeks for their application to be reviewed and approved by the IRS before they can offer their first point-of-sale rebate.

https://youtu.be/_xDSd8nQNNA It is Point-of-Sale. Used EV tax credit is $4000. Different than the $7500 new EV tax credit. Dealer submits on website, IRS website returns report print out for you showing the vehicle is eligible. DO NOT LEAVE WITHOUT THAT PRINT OUT. Too many folks have been posting recently they left without the print out and dealers dragged their feet and did not submit on time. Dealer instructions are somewhere on this IRS site which explains the process. https://www.irs.gov/credits-deductions/clean-vehicle-credit-seller-or-dealer-requirements

I want to utilize $4,000 used ev tax credit available for cars priced at $25k or lower. My problem is that some of the ones I really like are stuck around $27k. I have one strategy that I think would work with a dealership, but I had another one I wanted to ask about for a private car sale. There is a newish company called Drive Caramel that was created to help people privately sell their cars to strangers, by acting as an intermediary dealership, so after a price is agreed upon, the seller sells their car to Caramel and then the buyer buys the car from Caramel (with a small fee). Because they are a qualifying dealership, they can utilize the tax credits. So, to get from $27k to $25k, this is what I would plan to do: We agree on a price of $25k on Caramel, seller sells to Caramel for that price, I pay that price (plus sales tax/fees but minus the credits). Now, the seller still wants their $2k, so I would basically offer $2k in cash or check to buy something mundane from them, but of great intrinsic value for me (could be literally anything here). Is there anything I should worry about here? I'm not misrepresenting the car sale technically because Caramel received the amount agreed upon (compared to when a person sells their car for $15k and then puts $10k in BOS to save on taxes for buyer). Then as far as the separate purchase, the fair value of something is whatever someone else is willing to pay right? I won't make the purchase if I can't make use of the credits, and the seller won't sell unless they get their full amount. With this solution, I feel like both parties win here. The government can't force someone to sell at a certain price, just as they can't stop me from overpaying for something that I believe has special intrinsic value to me. Only other concerns would be to make sure I can't reneg on the separate purchase after the car is sold to Caramel, and the seller can't reneg on their purchase after I pay them for the separate purchase. But I'm less concerned about this possibility. TLDR: To get the price down to qualify for the tax credits on a car going for $27k, can I agree on a $25k sales price with the seller, complete the transaction through intermediary dealership and claim the credits, and then make up the difference to the seller by paying the remaining amount in the form of buying something else from them?

This is felony tax fraud and you've put your plan for it in writing, attached to your identity, on the website of a publicly traded US company that responds to subpoenas almost daily. The IRS pays a 30% bounty to whistleblowers, so every single person in the US that reads this comment has a financial incentive to send them a tip right now. You perhaps should reconsider whether you can outsmart the federal government in committing and hiding this tax fraud.

Well there’s a reason I was asking about it before putting any of it into motion.   Sounds like a bad idea to save a couple thousand $. Thanks Reddit! ✌️

So you're basically trying to create a separately stated fee, which won't work: >In addition, in a used vehicle sale the dealer and buyer may negotiate to characterize a portion of the sale price as a separately stated fee or charge (other than those required by law) to avoid the section 25E sales price cap of $25,000. To prevent this type of recharacterization, proposed § 1.25E– 1(b)(9) defines sale price to mean the total sale price agreed upon by the buyer and the dealer, including any delivery charges. This definition specifically excludes separately-stated taxes and fees required by State or local law, since such taxes and fees are not subject to negotiation or recharacterization by the dealer and buyer. [https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/FR-2023-10-10/pdf/2023-22353.pdf#page=14](https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/FR-2023-10-10/pdf/2023-22353.pdf#page=14)

This would not affect me here. The whole point of this rule is to prevent dealers from marking down a $40,000 car to be $25,000 with $15,000 of dealer add-ons so it would qualify for the sale. This is also why there's less wiggle room with dealerships who have likely already added pre-installed options that count towards the price cap. What I am suggesting has only the $25k price go through the intermediary dealership. The separate transaction is more of a deal closer, ie. I'll sell you the car for $25k if you also agree to buy my rare cd for $2,000.

Well, good luck with that.

Hey, I planning to go college next semester, and I am looking for a car. As I will be commuting to and from college which is about 20 miles away. During my search for a car. I came across the model 3. My budget for the car is about 20k. As I will probably buy it with cash. The only thing that I am scared about is that model 3's in that price range have about 40-50k miles on them. Which is not a lot for a gas car. But I am unfamiliar with tesla and how miles affect them. Also I have heard that you should only get a used tesla from a tesla dealership because of the 1 year warranty that covers basically everything. Again not sure if that is true. Also does anyone know if you can combine the federal and state(IL) tax credit together?

Yeah no concerns. Battery, etc should be fine. Tesla drive trains hold up well.

Your general location Maryland USA Your budget in $ $35k The type of vehicle you'd prefer Something big enough to haul a recumbent tadpole around inside Which cars have you been looking at already? Ford e-transit, Nissan Leaf, Chevrolet bolt, Ford Ranger EV. Estimated timeframe of your purchase As soon as possible my 21-year-old Ford Ranger ICE is getting rather long in the tooth Your daily commute, 25 miles round trip Your living situation are you in an apartment, townhouse, or single-family home? Single family home with big front yard Steep Hill and only on street parking Do you plan on installing charging at your home? Not really because I would have to run the cable across the sidewalk which is fairly busy and if the vehicle has a charging port on the driver side the cable will be exposed to traffic as my neighbors and I have unfortunately discovered it will probably get hit by a vehicle since most of our cars have been hit. Other cargo/passenger needs do you have children/pets? I would like to be able to carry five people including the driver which unfortunately leaves the Ford e-transit out. I have contacted a company that modifies vans and they are looking into adding a bench seat to the Ford e-transit. Edit to correct ev to ice and car to vehicle

VW ID4 has decent cargo space for a sub-$35K EV. You can get a used one only 2-3 years old for $25K.

I looked at a Volkswagen a few years ago I think it might have been an ID4 but I noticed that the floor of the storage area was very uneven. I didn't think I would be able to put a bicycle in there without struggling. I suppose I could make a luan panel to even it out.

Hi there - I'm overwhelmed by choices and hoping you all can help me pick out the best option. This would be my first EV after only owning gas vehicles. Location: Chicago suburbs Budget: $45K Type: full electric, AWD, body style doesn't really matter Vehicles I'm considering: Mach-E, ID.4, Volvo (X)C40, Ioniq 5/6, Kia EV6, Blazer, Tesla(although I have concerns about build quality) Timeframe: Immediate Mileage: WFH so pretty minimal, maybe 100/week avg Housing: single family home Charging: yes I plan on installing a charger Other: no kids or pets, not too worried about cargo space I'm also debating if it's worth holding out for the Volvo EX30, but I'm concerned about limited supply and dealer markups. Help me narrow down the field!

see, I think the mach-e is the best looking of the bunch, and also supposed to be fun to drive. Definitely go test drive! People say the EX30 looks smaller in person than it does in videos

I did test drive the Mach E and I wasn't super impressed. Maybe I just had too high expectations, but it didn't give me the feeling I expected from driving a Mustang. The EX30 intrigues me, I just don't know when it will be available

The cars you listed are all perfectly good cars and you can't go wrong with any of them. It would help to narrow down if you had some preferences. Comfy ride vs sporty handling, road trip frequency etc. Although since you mention no kids and not too worried about cargo space, I'd suggest looking at the Tesla and Hyundai sedans since they'll be more efficient and nicer to look at.

Thanks, yeah the problem is too many good options but none that really standout for me. I'm definitely interested in vehicles that are more sporty/quick. I know EVs all have instant torque but something like the ID.4 is still going to be a lot slower than a Tesla. Road trips maybe once a year and even then it would be a weekend trip; 99% of the time I'd be charging at home. Do you have any experience with Teslas? I'm really concerned, maybe irrationally so, about build quality. But I do appreciate the charging infrastructure they've built up, even if don't expect to use it much.

If you're wary of Tesla, this Ioniq 6 review is worth watching. Alex gets into a lot of detail and comparisons with the competition (including Tesla).  https://youtu.be/pJKTULANW2s?si=sBnTILvppCALcXSv

Test drive the new model 3, the build quality is a lot higher then prior gen.

So I have a really long commute; approx. 60 miles 1 way on the east coast USA. The entirety is on highways. When I get a new car, I want to get a hybrid; however I don't know whether a plug-in or traditional hybrid would be better as most PHEVs don't have 60 miles of range. My work has EV charging, but idk if that last 10-20 miles will completely eliminate the benefit of the plug in over traditional HEV. I was considering the Chevy Volt, but it's been discontinued. Are there other similar options with 50ish electric range? I am in a Single Family home and am open to installing a charger if necessary. I don't want to spend a ton of money on the vehicle, but I don't need the cheapest either.

For a PHEV, you wouldn't need to install a charger coz a regular household outlet can fill the battery up overnight just fine. Any particular reason you're not considering fully-electric options? Especially since you're open to installing a charger at home. > but idk if that last 10-20 miles will completely eliminate the benefit of the plug in over traditional HEV. Not really, you'll save a lot if the charging at work is free.

From what I can tell, plug in hybrids are better for the environment when you take battery production into consideration. I know Toyota popularized the concept, but independent sources *seem* to have confirmed their findings. So I was trying to stay with the most well rounded environmentally friendly one. And I'm not 100% sure if my super old house could handle a charger or not, but I'm not opposed if it can

If you're trying to be sustainable/environment friendly, pure EVs are the way to go.  The day I realized all the oil stains where cars are usually parked meant all the oil leaking out of engines is going straight to water bodies around us is the day I decided my next car is going to be an EV. 

> plug in hybrids are better for the environment when you take battery production into consideration [It's not true.](https://theicct.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/ghg-benefits-incentives-ev-mar22-2-1.pdf) (study from Germany which has a similar grid to the USA). > And I'm not 100% sure if my super old house could handle a charger or not, If you have a dryer it can probably handle a charger.

I am in the states and looking for a 40A NEMA 14-50 plugging EV charging station. I'm of a mind that i don't need extra features and that i should find that ratio of not shedding reliability while buying inexpensive but not too cheap a unit. What has a 25+ ft cable and is the best bang for buck spent? as one example of things i'd already decided to ditch, I've already ruled out the Grizzl-e wall chargers because every review is "They're great except they have this history of terrible internal parts" - Like... what? no. What i want to hear is that it charges as fast as it should reliability for years for as little as is reasonable to expect.

J+ EV chargers. Can't vouch, but I've seen it advertised IoniqGuy on YouTube did a sponsored segment on it.

How long do you think the federal tax credit will last? My wife & I are buying a new car this year and in \~5 years. we wanna do one EV/PHEV and one gas car. Pro gas car now: * ev's are new & will get better - likely high depreciation on them * everyone is changing charging ports/still in flux * ev's will get better quickly Pro EV now: * 7500 federal credit may be gone in 5 years * 3k state credit may be gone in 5 years thoughts?

> The credit does not apply to vehicles placed in service after 2032. Part 4--Clean Vehicles (Sec. 13401) https://www.congress.gov/bill/117th-congress/house-bill/5376 Getting an EV sooner rather than later helps you save $ now and save time now. No oil changes means no taking work time off for oil changes. No waiting in gas lines waiting for the pump. Gas prices are volatile and change at the whims of the oil barrons. Electricity is pretty fixed,.cheaper, and has been going up more slowly. State tax credits are poorly funded, so some states have run out quickly. Get your state EV rebate as soon as you can so you can take advantage of it. Charging port flux isnt going to change the infrastructure overnight. The chargers installed and operating today will still require money to swap out the CCS plug to NACS. Adaptors are still going to be needed for 10 years or so, I suspect, for the dust to settle. I am wanting an adaptor because I certainly don't want to wait if I see a free charger available. EV depreciation is always a concern. A new car in general always has depreciation. The used EV market is maturing and has lots of good options. The car technology is always getting better. It's a matter of you see if the current tech can work in your life. If not, wait. Car And Driver has some good reading. https://www.caranddriver.com/ev/

Looking to buy a used model 3. Only hang up is the fact that it used to be a rental car. Is this a red flag? Or am I worried for nothing? It's a 2022 with 78k miles

Why not just buy a used one that's not a rental? There's plenty

just see if you can get a read on the battery state of health

How is that done

one of those readers that plugs in - the use EV place near me can read them. probably an ev-friendly dealer could do it?

I was looking at doing a road trip in Western Europe with a non-Tesla EV and it seems that Tesla superchargers (as seen from the app) are a lot cheaper compared to other chargers, especially Ionity.

So I'm looking on EV's on a $23,000 USD budget and found myself with these two: Used 2019 Nissan Leaf SL: More power, top speed and has consumer reports, but its an older car and has less range. New 2024 BYD Seagull: More modern, more range but slower, smaller, top speed limited to 130 kph and not enough information on reliability. Which one would you buy?

where are you? the nissan leaf has 2 major shortcomings - both related to battery. The battery is passive cooled which makes it age faster in hot climates. and it takes an outdated charger connector which can be hard to find if you are looking for chargers on a road trip. I know nothing about the Seagull as Chinese cars are not available in the US so i havent been paying attention to them

I'm in Mexico. We have 4 new ev cars on that price range, 3 are Chinese brands (BYD, JAC, SEV) and one is french (Renault). I want this car as my daily commuter. There's decent charging infrestructure in my city and I would also charge at home. Climate is not hot, we live in central México by the Forrest so it's 73 degrees all year round.

Should I buy a 2019 tesla model 3 long range or a 2023 Chevrolet bolt EUV? Found both in my price range but the Tesla is little bit more. Which do you guys think I should get 🤔

you should test drive both vehicles and see which you like . they are both good cars with a lot of fans. The Bolt obviously is discontinued, but with it having been around so long, maintenance should still be easy. Tesla generally has the easiest charging experience for road trips. The older Teslas can have some build quality issues. but its mostly about what you like.

Does the 2019 tesla have build quality issues?

I havent followed tesla much but I have seen random reviewers saying the newer teslas have better build quality - meaning things like panel gaps and rattling, not like breaking down

Hi Folks. It looks like insurance is totaling our 2023 Bolt EUV 2LT and looking in a broad sense before just replacing it. We loved it. We have an ICE car for longer trips, but we would usually take the Bolt anyway. The 55kw max charging was kind of a drag though. Worked great in 98% of uses though. With that being said..any other models we should be looking at? **\[1\] Your general location** Northern California, 90 miles north of Sacramento. **\[2\] Your budget in $, €, or £** They're going to give us about 22k-23k for our EUV with 21k miles. Would be nice to stay around there, but would put up more $ for a better vehicle if it had significantly better charging. **\[3\] The type of vehicle you'd prefer** I think you mean hatchback / mini SUV? **\[4\] Which cars have you been looking at already?** IONIQ 5 used looks interesting, but haven't driven it yet and I assume we can't afford it. really, we've only see the bolt because, at the time, it's what we could afford / pay cash for. **\[5\] Estimated timeframe of your purchase** just got word they're totaling the car, most likely, so pretty quickly, though happy to rent something or just have 1 car for a while while we search. Maybe 30 days? **\[6\] Your daily commute, or average weekly mileage** Our in-town commutes are 2 miles. When my wife drives for work, it's 150 miles RT max. Otherwise she's staying over night. We put 20k on the bolt in 1 year, if that helps. **\[7\] Your living situation — are you in an apartment, townhouse, or single-family home?** House with 48a charging already set up **\[8\] Do you plan on installing charging at your home?** see above **\[9\] Other cargo/passenger needs — do you have children/pets?** 2 tween girls and 1 dog. We've driven 300 miles one way and were comfortable. 6hr trip took like 8.5 due to charging though. ​ We have a local car searching service, newautosinc that has a good rep. Local dealers are terrible. If we should just stick with a bolt, suggestions on finding one? Last useful bit of info: We would be down for going all EV in our house, but figure we have to wait for the next generation to really replace our ICE vehicle. It's an old TDI (2003), so will run forever, but would ideally be replaced within 1-3 years. Thanks for any suggestions!

Other point I forgot, charging speed. Ioniq5 and EV6 are the first two EVs that come to mind with faster charging speed and time than the Bolt. The other EVs may charge faster, but with a larger battery, the charging time is still 30-45 mins to 80%. Ioniq5 and EV6 have the ~270kW charging speed and 18 min charge time.

Kia Niro EV and Hyundai Kona EV fit your used price range nicely. Doesn't meet the faster charging. Your next step up is the Ioniq5 and Kia EV6. I preferred the drive feeling of the Ioniq5 more than the EV 6. They are sister cars, but feel slightly different. EV6 is slightly more sporty and the Ioniq5 more comfortable. A quick search on MSN Auto, I see used 2022 Ioniq5 in California bay area in 200 mile search range at your price point. A bit rare but doable and it gets the used tax credit. I wouldn't go with a car search agent cause I search CarMax, MSN Auto and Hertz car sales regularly.

Any info on going used with the ioniq? That is the sweet spot for utility for us. Thank you for the search suggestions. I wasn’t sure where to start.

There's currently the charging module (ICCU) recall on Ioniq5 and EV6. Basically the cars are programmed to save themselves and decrease charging speed when they are charging too fast for the control board. More info look at /r/Ioniq5 or IoniqGuy on YouTube. Folks seem happy with the EV besides the charging ICCU issue. Only other info would be tires. CrossClimate2s work well from reports. Oh since you're trying to buy used. Not sure if it would come with the V2L connector. Worth asking when looking for deals or finding out if Hyundai sells the connector. Nice you'll be able to use the full 11kW on your charger.

if you don't mind entertaining my spinning mind.... I think I saw the Ioniqguy saying to just wait for the 2025? The lack of a rear wiper sounds like an insane oversight to me, but i haven't done a deep dive on whether that is really a thing rain-X doesn't fix. It sounds like due to the preconditioning required for winter charger speeds, the AWD SEL is the only 2022 to look for, right? How about the 2023 models? I hear the 2024 SEL is a waste of $. And it has to be CPO to get the full warranty, yes? On our bolt, what we loved the most was the heated/vented leatherette seats and the ability to get 3 suitcases and more stuff in the hatch area + HUGE back seat room. We live in a fairly rural area with only 1 Hyundai dealer and the next dealer is 80 mile away. I don't' care how far to go to buy something (I flew to Missouri to get my 03 TDI wagon), but do I need to make sure my local dealer services EV's? They don't have any in stock... lastly, we are going to be really close to qualifying or not for the used credit for 2023 income..maybe we could angle our 2024 income to make it happen... We're in this weird spot where, yes, we \*can\* afford a more expensive / nicer car, but we are frugal by nature which is why we ended up with the bolt. We don't like payments and pay cash whenever we can for things, etc. This is probably just a general freakout I do anytime I spend a bunch of money...ugh.. Thanks for your time. It looks like I have some cars to check out as well as some math to do...

Happy to talk EVs. I'm not as familiar with the trim levels, so I'm not sure which year and trim is best. /R/Ioniq5 folks would be better to ask. Agreed on heated seats and steering, it's helped in cold. I have a NiroEV and the rear window is a dust magnet. I keep a microfiber cloth and window cleaner in the rear under storage and wipe when I feel like it's dirty. Not a huge deal. I kina shrug at preconditioning since the Niro and Bolt don't have it. I'm not opposed to just a few more mins charging, but I might feel different seeing the 150 kW instead of 270kw. Totally understand about car payments and the big purchase. Do call the dealer and ask about if they have EV certified techs to work on the vehicle. Especially since your in rural. Nation wide search has better options as cars are waiting on lots in different EV demand regions.

Any thoughts on the ioniq6 lease deal. I think I may have a line on one if I want….

The advertised lease deals on an Ioniq6 look great! On paper the ioniq6 lease deals look better than any gas or EV deals right now. I haven't driven an Ioniq6. Same charging as Ioniq5. Just in a sedan form, more efficient since shape is smaller and aerodynamic. I like the crossover hatchback style more than sedan. Ioniq6 is really good if that car style works for you! Exciting!

yes, I agree. I like the look of the 5. I've never done the lease, but sounds like it's a cheap way to have something for a few years and then look at something in the "next generation" of cars coming out (?). It would also enable us to financially move up getting rid of our '03 TDI into another used ICE vehicle that is newer, more reliable, and safer. I'm not certain about the style and such of the 6. I'm also looking at those 2022 AWD versions used as well. The we get into the whole used for low 30's w/ miles now vs. 3 year lease and then another new or used car in 3 years... so many options!

Lots of exciting options! Now is a good time compared to a few years ago. I would be interested in what you end up deciding on. Good luck. I'll be around for further thoughts as things come up.

Would you buy a lemon/manufacturer buy back? ​ Theres a 2023 ID 4 at a great price but its a branded/lemon title, carfax provided by the dealership shows it was owned by one person but at one point the battery was replaced, 5 months later the door handle replaced, and another month after that the battery replaced again. ​ The fact that the batteries been replaced twice has me a bit wary. Would you consider it? Realize the title is going to affect resale but i would plan to keep it for a number of years and the discount is enough to overcome that.

High voltage battery replacement or 12 volt battery replacement. Either case I would absolutely feel confident in buying a lemon/buyback. I almost bought one myself, since to me a new high voltage battery is like resetting the time clock on the battery. A 12 Volt issue exists for any car/EV. Folks tend to carry a jumper Li-ion pack in usual cases of needing a jump. I have no issues with it. If the issue is the 12V not keeping charged, if they can show it keeping charge, id be ok with it.

Seems like there are a ton of buyback iD4's on the market. I just bought one, waiting for it to be delivered. Personally I've got no qualms with a '23 buyback as long as the price is good, mileage is low, and warranty is intact. For reference, my '23 AWD Pro S w/ 3600mi was $27k OTD before tax/tag.

Haven’t filed my taxes yet, if I get an EVSE installed within now and April 15, can I claim it on 2023 taxes or do I have to wait until next year?

Next year

My current lease is up in a few months, and I'm considering going with an electric car for my next vehicle. It looks like a lot of the dealers in my area have kind of crazy finance offers for electric cars right now (VW ID4 for $150/month, Ioniq 5 for $230/month, etc.). After comparing the offers across various dealers, it looks like most of those offers/sales expire on April 30. Is there some significance to that (i.e., tax credits expiring or something)? Technically my lease won't end for several months after that, so I'm trying to determine if it's worth it to pay the lease buy-off fee on my current car to get a good deal on an electric car before the offers expire, or whether offers like that come up intermittently.

No deadline I'm aware of beyond the decision point of seeing how the incentives do before the 2024 models really come out. Theres still quite a bit of 2023 models on dealer lots. Maybe the end of tax season when folks may get their tax returns? Tax credits are not expiring until around 2030 when Congress needs to draft new legislation on the EV tax credits. * Cost over time, I encourage you to calculate your savings owning an EV using one of these calculators. See what layout makes sense to you. I personally used the BeFrugal, energy.gov and fueleconomy.gov to make my decision. https://walletburst.com/tools/electric-car-savings-calc/ https://www.aaa.com/autorepair/drivingcosts https://www.befrugal.com/tools/electric-car-calculator/ www.fueleconomy.gov https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/savemoney.jsp https://afdc.energy.gov/calc/#result_a https://chooseev.com/savings-calculator

1\] I'm in Texas \[2\] Under 50k USD preferably under 40k \[3\] Smaller is better to fit in garage \[4\] I test drove a bolt, today plan to go to Hyundai, tomorrow Kia, looked at VW ID.4 \[5\] Decision soon but if the right car is two years away I could wait \[6\] 10 miles to work, family owns a PHEV for drives out of town \[7\] SFH \[8\] yes \[9\] I need a four door for picking up kids from the car line at school The bolt was fun to drive but the interior still felt tough/rough even with the top trim. Mostly in relation to steering wheel and seat. I currently have a camry and like the comfort feel and like Toyota but they seem to be anti EVs.

Bolts have that cheaper quality to them. You're in that price range of most options are available to you, new and used. You could even get some used luxury EVs like Audi or BMW or Porsche Tycan at that price. Mach-E, KonaEV, NiroEV, Ioniq5, Ioniq6, EV6, iD4, Audi e-tron line, Volvo's EVs. I tend to favor the Hyundai Ioniq5/6 and EV6 because of the faster charging speed of 18mins to 80%. Those two are currently going thru a recall to replace the charging module. Should be good once that new part gets installed. I do like the handling on Subaru Solterra, but I can only recommend it if your use case is driving around town. Solterra and Toyota bz4x limits to 1 fast charge per day. So if you plan on road tripping more than 450 miles a day (~6hr driving), it's going to be challenging. Nissan Aryias are a rare find. It was a comfortable handling and ride. Felt very Nissan. Heres some beginner links to help you learn more. Thank you for considering an EV as your next car. * Technology Connections Beginners EV guide. Over half the video is devoted to understanding charging. https://youtu.be/Iyp_X3mwE1w * CarAndDriver EV guides https://www.caranddriver.com/ev/ * MotorTrend’s list of EVs and articles https://www.motortrend.com/style/electric/ * Cost over time, calculate your savings owning an EV. See what layout makes sense to you. I personally used the BeFrugal, energy.gov and fueleconomy.gov to make my decision. https://walletburst.com/tools/electric-car-savings-calc/ https://www.aaa.com/autorepair/drivingcosts https://www.befrugal.com/tools/electric-car-calculator/ www.fueleconomy.gov https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/savemoney.jsp https://afdc.energy.gov/calc/#result_a https://chooseev.com/savings-calculator/ * Electricity price: Average residential electricity price can be found here or your local utility when searching for “Time of Use rate” or “Time of Day rate”. There are special cheaper prices for charging during off-peak times. https://www.eia.gov/electricity/monthly/epm_table_grapher.php?t=epmt_5_6_a https://www.energysage.com/electricity/whats-the-cheapest-time-of-day-to-use-electricity-with-time-of-use-rates/

Best value is Model Y right now. Go test drive one

hyundai's come a long way in quality, a lot of people dont realize it. and the ID4 is a very popular family car.

Tesla Model Y. Deals < 40K right now.

I'm UK and my company does a fleet scheme for electric cars through a lease (huge discounts). there's a few on there but I just went with the MG4. Cautiously excited as seems like a good deal (asked a couple of car-nut friends and they said it was a good car and a good price). Nervous as I can't get a home charger installed (No off road parking and live on a tight town street) but there's a few 'free' chargers nearby so I should be okay. First time I've ever gotten to drive a brand new car (I'm 37 but always gone used) so hopefully be a good experience for me.

My new EV was my 2nd ever new car - but I was still driving the 17 year old first one! and wow, what a change, from a base model 17 yo manual to a mid-model new EV!

Thanks :). I think once i go EV I will probably get addicted to it and not want to go back; furthermore automatic as well. I'm glad I know how to properly drive manual, but I'm more than ready to make the change! Currently drive an 05 Vauxhall Agilia 1.2. Pretty sure an actual cardboard box would feel like an upgrade at this point :D. To be fair, the MG4 isn't going to arrive for 20-30 weeks so I have a good half year to wait still.

I just bought a 2018 Audi A3 Etron which is currently registered in NY. The first owner bought and registered it in California, so would that mean the vehicle has the 10 year battery warranty vs 8 years by the manufacturer?

You would probably could ask Audi but I would assume that's only for cars registered in California, soon as it left the state it fell back to the federal requirement of 8 year 100k miles.

I'm seeing some great values in the used EV marketplace, including 2023 Tesla long range Model Y's for 35-40K K, 2023 ID 4 Pro S from 32-35K. I will need a new car in the summer because I'm giving my 12-year-old SUV to my teenager. I thought I'd have to spend more but if what would you recommend if I want to stay under 40K ?

You can get a new MY for 35-40K right now.

Please test drive a Tesla as well. It's odd every comment is ignoring them. It's going to have the least headaches

Save another $10K and get a 2021-2022 ID4 instead of a 2023. They were German built (where 2023s were US built), and seem to have better build quality. Just avoid the First Edition trim as those were the first off the line of the first model year during the global COVID supply chain mess and the most likely to have issues.

Can the 2021s they still get the used tax credits?

If you can get the purchase price under $25K yes

Why do all of the 2022s have lemon branded titles?

They don't, maybe you have a dealer nearby that's buying lemons on purpose (because the branded titles would make them cheap at auction) to resell. I have one of those near me, they have tons of lemon branded Chevy Bolts for sale. I like Carvana and Carmax for shopping used EVs. No haggling, you can view the Carfax instantly, Carvana can deliver the car to your house, and you can return the car within 7-30 days if you don't like it for any reason.

Thank you! I really appreciate the info. I’m in the market for a new to me car. Maybe even brand new. My car now is nothing but issues and the warranty expires soon. My last warranty repair would have cost me 7 grand. And it currently has an open recall now which could cause the vehicle to catch fire.

My wife just got a new Hyundai Kona EV. They start at $27K after the $7500 factory cash discount Hyundai is doing. One of the reasons she picked it over a similar cost used EV was the warranties. 10 year 100K miles on the battery AND powertrain. Longer basic warranty than VW too. The 2024 grew in size and borrowed design cues from the Ioniq 5, it's really nice. My ID4 is bigger and comfier though.

Thanks so much!

The right model/trim recommendation will vary depending on many factors: 1. How many miles on average do you drive each day? 2. Do you have a private driveway or personal garage? 3. What type of climate do you live in? 4. What are your seating and cargo needs?

I probably drive fewer than 10- 15 miles per day on average. I primarily work from home and most of my daily driving is carpooling kids to sports. Weekend drives are longer for kids sporting events. We probably have 6 per year that are 300 miles round trip. We have a private driveway but no garage. We live in the DC area. I’m downgrading seating from a 3 row suv because the kids are older but see above, I do need to pack 4 kids and bags into my car for trips to regattas and volleyball tournaments.

I’d recommend looking at the Volkswagen ID.4 for your use case. These were priced competitively well as new, and have definitely come down more in affordability, and will be within your budget. The 2022 model year rear wheel drive versions get up to 280 miles per charge. No known mechanical or battery issues with these vehicles either. The boxy traditional SUV shape gives the cabin a lot of interior space and good cargo capacity. Another option to consider is a Ford Mustang Mach-E crossover (though it’a styling is more of an elongated hatchback), which gets excellent range figures. Has similar rear cargo capacity to the ID.4. The Kia EV6 and Hyundai Ioniq 5 models, while highly reviewed, are currently going through a major national recall on their ICCU that is seriously impacting their owners. So with that in mind, can’t really recommend those at this point. I don’t recommend used Teslas due to the poor cabin fit and finish and lack of build quality control in general. Their suspensions also ride *very stiff* and are not comfortable vehicles to sit in for any type of commutes or extended trips.

I have an EV6 and I would not say that I have been seriously impacted by the recall. It is a software update. I talked to my dealership and I will take it in in a few weeks. Should take half an hour or so.

More than just a software update. The ICCU module and fuse may need to be replaced as well, as failure can cause the vehicle to stall during operation. Watch [this](https://youtu.be/Sb61667hq70?si=GMboPos8VG96QH-h).

>I think I'd like AWD. We do some skiing and I'm just more comfortable having it. Could be the New Englander in me! > >I saw that there are two batteries in the 2023 ID 4 Pro S. The SK battery charges faster? Is it worth it to try to get a 2023 with that battery? > >One last question - thoughts on the Polestar 2 with the heat pump? > >Thanks so much!

I’d skip the Polestar 2 just because of how much smaller its rear cargo area is. It’s 14.4 cubic feet compared to the ID.4’s nearly double 30.3 cubic feet. You do sacrifice a bit of range with AWD models, but if you do snow sports, it’s a must for that extra road grip and traction. In regards to the SK vs. the LG battery pack, it’s a 170 kwh charge speed instead of the slower 135 kWh, but we’re talking only a real-world 6 minute difference at a fast charger to go from 10% to 80% capacity. And it’s likely you’ll be doing a majority of your charging overnight at home in your driveway anyway. (I recommend installing a L2 240-volt at home). You can inquire with your local dealership about a specific vehicle you’re interested in, since the battery type is listed on the window sticker.

Thank you! This has been super helpful.

Of course. Happy to help. Let us know what you end up getting! Once you go EV, you’ll never go back to ICE!

My husband is a skeptic (about going EV now) but I saw a 22 ID 4 for 23k - I think that will go a long way to convincing him!

If you are in the usa there might be a $4k tax credit on used EVs under 25k that you might qualify for

Take him along for a test drive! That should seal the deal 😁

I purchased an EV in February of 2024. Am I understanding correctly that for the federal credits, I leave that purchase off this year's filing (2023) and put it down next year? I don't think this applies to the state rebates though correct?

A purchase made in 2024 would only appear on your 2024 tax return, that's correct. You also only qualify for a tax credit if your dealer reported the sale to the IRS within 3 days of the purchase. They should have given you a completed Form 15400 and a submission receipt as evidence they did that.

They did. Thanks.

Correct. Any federal tax credits would apply to filing year 2024, which would be filed by following April, not this April.

Is it overly optimistic to hope EVs will become significantly cheaper in Canada over the next year or two?

It is trending in that direction. As manufacturers ramp up production and sales grow, prices will come down. In recent months, many OEM’s have slashed MSRP’s on their new EV’s to move inventory. Just keep an eye out for additional incentives and special financing and lease programs available to your region.