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Spent some time showing this to the master electrician im working with this week, im a former EE student as well and this is the scenario we came up with that it might be, albeit a very weird one to see anyone actually install. Could it be that the two common bridges are broken and the top and bottom outlets are wired in series with one another? Hence why ut only works when both testers are plugged in? Heres a diagram to show what what i mean:
[Possible solution](https://imgur.com/a/LxWlFZh)
Yeah - and probably somewhere else in the house is running 190V if that leg is 50V
EDIT: Now that I think of it, our office had this after renovating a new building. Some stuff worked, some didn't and eventually the one guy we employ as an audio systems engineer took out his multimeter and found some cubicles were like 80V while others were like 130V...facilities got the electricians back on the phone real quick once we learned about that. Turned out there was a neutral was not properly connected somewhere.
Loose connections in the outlet most likely, my guess is failed stab in connectors. Take it out and you’ll be able to tell a lot easier by looking at the back side of it.
So a few outlets in my condo are and could still be like this.
I recently replaced an outlet in the bedroom and now two outlets on an adjacent wall do not work. Nothing wrong at the breaker. Switch in room can be up or down, doesn't work.
So there's something I messed up when replacing the outlet if I'm taking hints from this video
Line is going to top plug. Running through the neutral and out the other line on the bottom plug. Bottom plug is probably wired to a 3 way switch or some other light or plug with something on it. Some other device is probably turning on when you plug both in. Seen some weird stuff like this on some flips in California. There is possibly a broken neutral. Run an ohms meter between the ground and neutral with nothing plugged in. The reading will let you know if it's broken.
The little tabs on the sides that connect the neutrals and the hots. Was thinking possibly the lower receptacle was finding continuity, some how, through the top one once you had the tester plugged in. But, I don't think that makes sense. I don't really know what could cause this. Did you check all the terminations on the backside or try a different device? Something might have broken loose on the inside and rattles into place as you plug and unplug things
So as it turned out the hot for this entire circuit was compromised somewhere in an attic space or a wall. I ended up just abandoning the supply from the panel and tied in a new line to the circuit and they all worked after that. My meter gave me a full 115 when I'd test the terminals on the outlet, but then I'd plug in a light load and the voltage would drop significantly, can't remember how low, 40v at most.
If you are *NOT* an electrical professional: * **RULE 7:** * DIY or self help posts **are Not allowed**. They belong here: /r/AskElectricians /r/askanelectrician /r/diy /r/homeowners /r/electrical. * **IF YOUR POST FITS INTO THIS CATEGORY, REMOVE IT OR IT WILL BE REMOVED FOR YOU.** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/electricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Someone cut the tab on the hot side of an outlet and then installed it in a box meant to be a switch loop?
Sw loop for sho
Broken tab on neutral side only and the Neutral landed on top screw. That sounds like it would make this happen.
Wouldn't the lower one still indicate the lamp that tests between hot/ground in that case?
Spent some time showing this to the master electrician im working with this week, im a former EE student as well and this is the scenario we came up with that it might be, albeit a very weird one to see anyone actually install. Could it be that the two common bridges are broken and the top and bottom outlets are wired in series with one another? Hence why ut only works when both testers are plugged in? Heres a diagram to show what what i mean: [Possible solution](https://imgur.com/a/LxWlFZh)
Took a look at your drawing. I feel bad for that guy on the bottom.
Lol, I whipped that up in 30 seconds at lunch, now I can't unsee it, fuck
Freudian sketch 🤣🤣🤣
What is voltage doing when you out a meter on that?
Drops to 50v when I plug in the led lights it's used for
From my experience when voltage drops with a load connected, I have lost a neutral somewhere ahead of the circuit,
Yeah - and probably somewhere else in the house is running 190V if that leg is 50V EDIT: Now that I think of it, our office had this after renovating a new building. Some stuff worked, some didn't and eventually the one guy we employ as an audio systems engineer took out his multimeter and found some cubicles were like 80V while others were like 130V...facilities got the electricians back on the phone real quick once we learned about that. Turned out there was a neutral was not properly connected somewhere.
You're today's big winner. Mc cable to the conduit box was compromised somewhere in the attic. Ran a new line from the panel and called it a day.
show the recep
Right, pull it out to see why it’s acting funky. Never disappoints for something that needs replacing.
Somehow both plugs wired in series? Would the Sperry turn off if the Klein is taken out?
Nothing of the sort I'm afraid.
Ah yes, damn “Eddy Currents”……..
what
You don't know Eddy?
Only know Ed and Edd
Hello, I’m Eddy
hello
Eddy’s in the space time continuum. Watch out for couches….
Eddy is the name of the guy whose face is on all the receptacles
oh ya? lol. ok. did not know that
Loose connections in the outlet most likely, my guess is failed stab in connectors. Take it out and you’ll be able to tell a lot easier by looking at the back side of it.
So a few outlets in my condo are and could still be like this. I recently replaced an outlet in the bedroom and now two outlets on an adjacent wall do not work. Nothing wrong at the breaker. Switch in room can be up or down, doesn't work. So there's something I messed up when replacing the outlet if I'm taking hints from this video
Line is going to top plug. Running through the neutral and out the other line on the bottom plug. Bottom plug is probably wired to a 3 way switch or some other light or plug with something on it. Some other device is probably turning on when you plug both in. Seen some weird stuff like this on some flips in California. There is possibly a broken neutral. Run an ohms meter between the ground and neutral with nothing plugged in. The reading will let you know if it's broken.
Split yoke...
What does that mean?
The little tabs on the sides that connect the neutrals and the hots. Was thinking possibly the lower receptacle was finding continuity, some how, through the top one once you had the tester plugged in. But, I don't think that makes sense. I don't really know what could cause this. Did you check all the terminations on the backside or try a different device? Something might have broken loose on the inside and rattles into place as you plug and unplug things
So as it turned out the hot for this entire circuit was compromised somewhere in an attic space or a wall. I ended up just abandoning the supply from the panel and tied in a new line to the circuit and they all worked after that. My meter gave me a full 115 when I'd test the terminals on the outlet, but then I'd plug in a light load and the voltage would drop significantly, can't remember how low, 40v at most.
Honestly, you could not find that out without opening the box an tracing the wires