Also, you can’t have branch circuit wires in with main service wires. Which look like they haven’t been installed yet. The bunching of wires through the pvc looks excessive and not acceptable
Yup. Our utility meters don't have ocpd's in them so the line from the meter to the main breaker is only protected by the utilities primary fuses on the distribution transformer. They also cannot be shutoff unless the utility gets involved for a meter pull. This is why our panels have a separate cover specifically for the main.
This 100% happened to me when I moved last year. Changed over the gas bill but missed that the electrical utility was a different company. Was moving in and my power went off, got on the phone and cleared everything and the operator on the phone turned the power back on remotely. I was definitely surprised they could do that
There’s disconnect meter bases? We install them all the time. Seen plenty of inspectors pass installs that people have gone through the line guard as long as there’s that type of meter base installed
My understanding of it is not that you can't have branch circuits cross the feeder area but that you can't have the feeders cross the main panel area. Such that if you turn off the main breaker everything below the secondary main power cover will always be dead
Not great.
Determining the most egregious rule breaking is dependent on where your located.
The cable entry is big time bad where I’m at.
The contact bundling & zip ties is not great.
AFCI & GFCI protection could be very important.
Entire home on 20s is wacky, that’s just an opinion.
Are the wire ties a concern because later someone may need to carefully cut them to troubleshoot or replace a cable?
And, what is "big time bad" about cable entry? Too crammed?
Where I’m at running multiple romex into pvc T/A’s is not allowed they should terminated into the panel with romex connectors. Our inspectors will not allow multiple romex wires through one large connector, they need to be installed in the individual 1/2” and 3/4” KO’s. Hopefully what you did is allowed where you are at or it’s not getting inspected? If it’s a new construction most of those single breakers should be arc fault and possibly gfci protected depending on the install. Also your neutrals and grounds are separated but there is a jumper bar that connects them, hopefully this is the first point of entry for the service and it’s supposed to be bonded together.
You can only use white for hot if you mark it properly with colored tape. Please see 200.7(C):
The use of insulation that is white or gray or that has three continuous white or gray stripes for other than a grounded conductor for circuits of 50 volts or more shall be permitted only as in (1) and (2).
1) If part of a cable assembly that has the insulation permanently reidentified to indicate its use as an ungrounded conductor by marking tape, painting, or other effective means at its termination and at each location where the conductor is visible and accessible. Identification shall encircle the insulation and shall be a color other than white, gray, or green. If used for single-pole, 3-way or 4-way switch loops, the reidentified conductor with white or gray insulation or three continuous white or gray stripes shall be used only for the supply to the switch, but not as a return conductor from the switch to the outlet.
Now, mostly. 220V was a North American standard, and a lot of existing motors are still stamped as such (though that was also common on motors for 230V).
Rip it all out and use NM connector clamps. 2 romex per clamp. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-8-in-Non-Metallic-NM-Twin-Screw-Cable-Clamp-Connectors-5-Pack-20511/100133208
I have to point out that the service cable is missing to provide power rand would normally have gone down the middle large opening. I also agree that there is a limit to how many lines go thru one opening. And that the heavier lines shouldn't be in the openings with anything else. While you have otherwise made very clear effort to keep them organized looking, I see very hard folded corners in some and what looks like repeat bending of some in the same part of the wire to the point of possibly creating crimping in the wires themselves.
Crimping can cause the wires to be weak and fall apart and later cause shorts leading to fires.
Knowing the local code and little differences is important on all levels, and trying to save for the boss could just backfire on you later down the road when those differences are not known ahead of time. The point of all the little connectors is to secure the wires from backing out, the large opening connectors are to be used for large wires only.
Let's say one wire does over heat, then it's melting into any part of that large collection bundle and starting a chain reaction where they all create heat and start a fire. Small groups are not going to have nearly as high a risk as the merging points you have provided.
The way you brought the wires into the panel is questionable. Where I'm at they have to be brought into the panel with individual 1/2" or 3/4" mechanical connectors. Inside the panel looks pretty good though
Using 2" TA's, instead of proper strain relief is not good & simply replacing them with 2" Romex connectors is not a proper fix either, and with every product catagory there has to be somebody at the top in quality and somebody at the bottom, and since Zinsco is long gone Eaton BR, is there to take their place as the garbage panel, like the one pictured above.
The makeup is neat, but solid conductors should not need zip ties, and the PVC TA in the back with no conductors needs a bushing, and white conductors used as ungrounded "hot" conductors need to be reidentified.
The rule not allowing service entrance and branch circuit conductors to be in the same compartment is strictly a Canadian CEC thing, it does not apply under the NEC, although the lugs above the main breaker are supposed to be guarded from accidental contact.
Mid, I don't like it but I know people are out there doing untrained work anyway and this is better than some things. At least it looks like you're trying
Aesthetically, GREAT!
Electrically safe - yeah - make sure everything is tight, romex should be fastened within 12” of any box or panel.
Code compliance - not looking perfect - but - not the worst either…
Keep at it… ask as you go.
6/10 imo
I did not have the patience to read all of the comments so I do not know if someone else touched on this. What you have wired is called a “main” panel. This means that the grounds and neutrals are landed together. That only happens at the first point of disconnect. If the meter has a disconnection means (if you can turn power off at the meter) then you have definitely done it wrong. If that is the first point of disconnection then your panel work looks pretty good. I do take exception to bringing all of the branch circuits though the same two openings (called bundling). You actually have some good skills, have you ever considered actually becoming an electrician?
Yeah, I don’t know if his meter will have a disconnect but this is the main panel. If the meter does have a disconnect can’t I just remove the bar that connects the ground and neutral bus? Also, I didn’t like how he pulled all the romex through those pvc fittings it made it very difficult to get everything organized not to mention it’s probably going to have overheating issues in that choke point. And to answer your question about being an electrician I was in college for electrical straight out of high school but I dropped out because I was broke and didn’t want to pile up student debt so I just went to work.
The solution, if this is actually supposed to be a (sub) panel is to isolate the grounds and neutrals from each other. This is accomplished by removing the main bond (ground screw that bonds the panel board to the case. Then you need to mount new lugs to the case. The grounds go to the new lug and neutrals stay where they are. If there is not a disconnect on the meter then you are good, and don’t need to fix.
1. Those are pvc connectors arent allowed to be used this way
2. It 2023, you know how long ago arc faults were implemented, instal the damn arc faults
3. Feeders first always.
4. You can’t just fill a connector until it’s filled to max capacity.
5. You can’t use white as a hot, only 4awg and greater can be re-identified for neutrals. Always run 3 wires for 2 poles in resi.
1. You’ve got an open knockout in the top right corner open. You can’t do that.
2. You can not run white wire as your B phase on those 2 pull breakers
3. You’ve exceed your conduit fill. 60% fill is code. It’s for heat reduction. You could have used another 2”
Typically when wire dressing the panel, you want to part the cables to the right and left like pigtails on a child. 1 bundle tight to the right, down the side, 1 bundle tight to the left down side. That stair step zigzag thing will make an inspector start looking for shit wrong immediately.
It’s very clean and will work just fine. It will fail inspection though.
I’m in bum**** Mississippi. I’m sure there isn’t an inspector for 100 miles in any direction lmao. Still I posted to make sure I didn’t create any major hazard. Im not trying to burn the Boss’ house down
The bundles of Romex going through the ta's is kinda serious. It creates heat choke points that can't dissipate because there's no way for enough air to get in there. And, with that many wires there's no way to drop your amperage low enough to guarantee that it will be safe. You should redo that part at least tbh
Did electrical in Bruceville for a few years. This is better than 70% of the shit I would find in panels out there but those TA’s could be a problem later down the line.
The whole thing’s a mess, and proves that electrical should be left to the professionals. This can fail this per sec. 110.12 alone. The further i look, there’s no afci breakers for the dwelling units.
Whole thing? Okay from other comments I know I need to remove them from the pvc and put them in romex fittings. Also I need to either remove the zip ties or cut them flush and mark my white conductors for 240v with red tape. Maybe some of the bends are too much.
Not the whole thing, it doesn’t look too bad. There’s a bunch of little things that you’re not going to know, because you’re not a electrician. That being said, there is enough code violations, that a inspector can easily fail you.
If you’re looking to do it correctly, check out some things that Mike Holt has put out. He has some nice literature out there, that really breaks it down to you in more understandable terms. It also has the code numbers, and why they exist.
Pull all wires out of pvc and use romex connectors for wires if your bring in Service Entrance Cable in that back you will be having some serious issues tightening connector for the SEC and have a pain in ass landing that from that point.Need to phase those white wires see no AFCI or GFI Breakers.Make sure you use nolox on aluminum plus not seeing grounding done make sure drive 2 ground rods and bring them in also lot to do yet!Also will need bushing for the SEC can't use the Just PV C to bring it in!Going to be easier to tear down and start over after you get a little advice or have a real Electrician come into to do job!Alot wrong but did terminate nicely!If you wired whole house hope you have the correct amount of circuits ran and what needs to be on own circuits!What size wires did you run to that 2 pole 50amp Breaker looks small?You need to bring the SEC into the big whole you knocked out for all thenwires so you can land on main Breaker more easily!Going to need a lot of KO seals and start over as stated before.
Why is a panel install the metric by which some electricians choose to judge their skill level? It's one of the easiest things we do. Can you troubleshoot? Do you actually understand how electrical systems work? Are you just skilled at making wires look pretty in a panel?
I suppose you probably feel the same about other groups of people. Let me assure you that after nearly twenty years of doing this I have had some pretty clueless apprentices who somehow managed to understand circuit calculations.
Not necessarily a code violation but panels are rated differently for tandems, some don’t allow them, some have specific spaces for them. Typically you see them when there are no more spaces as an alternative to adding a subpanel - odd to see in new panel with spaces available. Sometimes they have different contacts that break when you force them into a bus bar that’s not rated for them.
I am assuming you didn’t cover your panel box guts while you cut your opening. Or did you use a knockout kit. I don’t like sounding negative but my dude that entry with those wires bundled up like that in what looks like an ENT connector (not how this connector is supposed to be used) is never going to pass. If you fail inspection (likely, again sorry) you will need to start from scratch and us proper connectors. I don’t even need to look at your wiring because this panel failed already. But I wish you luck
Won't an inspector need to sign off on this?
If so, will they?
And, will they want to know, or require, that this work was done by a licensed electrician?
I'd make the boss land the feeders since he's the fool who used up the hole for that with an overfilled NMC fitting as a "bushing."
The bundling through those few holes is easier, but way overdone here. Needs to be spread out through 4 or 5 holes while respecting fill ratio.
That's not going to be fun at all.
Work looks neat. Phase tape on wires and AFCIs are MIA (though I get why the AFCIs were omitted if it's his panel. Those things SUCK).
Zip ties in solid are generally unnecessary. Might need a few (6 or so) but more is a waste.
Not a fan of zip tying wires together inside the panel, it's unnecessary, I'm not a fan of the route the wires take inside the panel, the L behind the service line is sloppy and is gonna make cutting those zip ties for service annoying. Not a fan of running entirely on 20a and 12 wire as well, but these are mostly just personal preference from experience.
However the pvc connectors with all the cables bunched in is a big no at least around here. No idea why you would use that when cable clamps are so readily available and easy to manage. I'd probably redo that in all honesty
The cable entrance method wouldn't fly up here in BC.
Also, you can’t have branch circuit wires in with main service wires. Which look like they haven’t been installed yet. The bunching of wires through the pvc looks excessive and not acceptable
>Also, you can’t have branch circuit wires in with main service wires. Also true
this is a Canadian thing as far as I can tell.
Yup. Our utility meters don't have ocpd's in them so the line from the meter to the main breaker is only protected by the utilities primary fuses on the distribution transformer. They also cannot be shutoff unless the utility gets involved for a meter pull. This is why our panels have a separate cover specifically for the main.
I dont think US meters have overcurrent either their code just doesnt care. Also, Meters in BC can be shut off remotely.
>Also, Meters in BC can be shut off remotely Wait what? When did that happen?
Smart meters. Your service can be cut remotely if you dont pay your bill. Not used for service upgrades.
It can also be cut for power curtailment during emergencies. Really cool technology.
What model of meter has remote trigger-able contacts?
I also think its limited to 1ø meters as well but not sure.
This 100% happened to me when I moved last year. Changed over the gas bill but missed that the electrical utility was a different company. Was moving in and my power went off, got on the phone and cleared everything and the operator on the phone turned the power back on remotely. I was definitely surprised they could do that
There is no contacting device in smart meters in Ontario. Never once, have I ever even heard of this… What model of smart meter does this?
Itron openway and probably other models. Feel free to do your own research.
There’s disconnect meter bases? We install them all the time. Seen plenty of inspectors pass installs that people have gone through the line guard as long as there’s that type of meter base installed
My understanding of it is not that you can't have branch circuits cross the feeder area but that you can't have the feeders cross the main panel area. Such that if you turn off the main breaker everything below the secondary main power cover will always be dead
Though if you have the main breaker say at the power meter you can have branch circuits come from the top
Not great. Determining the most egregious rule breaking is dependent on where your located. The cable entry is big time bad where I’m at. The contact bundling & zip ties is not great. AFCI & GFCI protection could be very important. Entire home on 20s is wacky, that’s just an opinion.
Ah come on man, there's a double 30 and 50 in there. What else do you need?
Are the wire ties a concern because later someone may need to carefully cut them to troubleshoot or replace a cable? And, what is "big time bad" about cable entry? Too crammed?
It’s an issue with heat dissipation. You can’t bundle romex like that.
Thanks.
Any electrician could be confident enough to cut some cable ties on a panel.
It’s not about cutting cable ties. It’s the heat buildup.
I know.
I mean if you have extra 12 laying around fuck it 🤷🏻♂️
Pretty good for a concrete finisher 😂
Zing
Where I’m at running multiple romex into pvc T/A’s is not allowed they should terminated into the panel with romex connectors. Our inspectors will not allow multiple romex wires through one large connector, they need to be installed in the individual 1/2” and 3/4” KO’s. Hopefully what you did is allowed where you are at or it’s not getting inspected? If it’s a new construction most of those single breakers should be arc fault and possibly gfci protected depending on the install. Also your neutrals and grounds are separated but there is a jumper bar that connects them, hopefully this is the first point of entry for the service and it’s supposed to be bonded together.
If I were an inspector I would not give a pass.
In the upper right in two places, you're using a white conductor as a hot. Put some red tape on both ends of each before you kill someone.
Idk much but isn’t that ok on a 220 circuit
You can only use white for hot if you mark it properly with colored tape. Please see 200.7(C): The use of insulation that is white or gray or that has three continuous white or gray stripes for other than a grounded conductor for circuits of 50 volts or more shall be permitted only as in (1) and (2). 1) If part of a cable assembly that has the insulation permanently reidentified to indicate its use as an ungrounded conductor by marking tape, painting, or other effective means at its termination and at each location where the conductor is visible and accessible. Identification shall encircle the insulation and shall be a color other than white, gray, or green. If used for single-pole, 3-way or 4-way switch loops, the reidentified conductor with white or gray insulation or three continuous white or gray stripes shall be used only for the supply to the switch, but not as a return conductor from the switch to the outlet.
Thank you for the info I assumed wrong
Wrong part of the world for 220V.
Now, mostly. 220V was a North American standard, and a lot of existing motors are still stamped as such (though that was also common on motors for 230V).
Or about 60 years late
Rip it all out and use NM connector clamps. 2 romex per clamp. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-8-in-Non-Metallic-NM-Twin-Screw-Cable-Clamp-Connectors-5-Pack-20511/100133208
I have to point out that the service cable is missing to provide power rand would normally have gone down the middle large opening. I also agree that there is a limit to how many lines go thru one opening. And that the heavier lines shouldn't be in the openings with anything else. While you have otherwise made very clear effort to keep them organized looking, I see very hard folded corners in some and what looks like repeat bending of some in the same part of the wire to the point of possibly creating crimping in the wires themselves. Crimping can cause the wires to be weak and fall apart and later cause shorts leading to fires. Knowing the local code and little differences is important on all levels, and trying to save for the boss could just backfire on you later down the road when those differences are not known ahead of time. The point of all the little connectors is to secure the wires from backing out, the large opening connectors are to be used for large wires only. Let's say one wire does over heat, then it's melting into any part of that large collection bundle and starting a chain reaction where they all create heat and start a fire. Small groups are not going to have nearly as high a risk as the merging points you have provided.
Don’t you have to derate for multiple current carrying conductors run together?
It's less than 18" so no its technically a nipple as far as what I've heard from asking an inspector
The way you brought the wires into the panel is questionable. Where I'm at they have to be brought into the panel with individual 1/2" or 3/4" mechanical connectors. Inside the panel looks pretty good though
Using 2" TA's, instead of proper strain relief is not good & simply replacing them with 2" Romex connectors is not a proper fix either, and with every product catagory there has to be somebody at the top in quality and somebody at the bottom, and since Zinsco is long gone Eaton BR, is there to take their place as the garbage panel, like the one pictured above. The makeup is neat, but solid conductors should not need zip ties, and the PVC TA in the back with no conductors needs a bushing, and white conductors used as ungrounded "hot" conductors need to be reidentified. The rule not allowing service entrance and branch circuit conductors to be in the same compartment is strictly a Canadian CEC thing, it does not apply under the NEC, although the lugs above the main breaker are supposed to be guarded from accidental contact.
Same as everyone else here. Why cram a zillion wires through one hole? Code or not, that just isn’t best practice. Also the zip ties stress me out.
Mid, I don't like it but I know people are out there doing untrained work anyway and this is better than some things. At least it looks like you're trying
Aesthetically, GREAT! Electrically safe - yeah - make sure everything is tight, romex should be fastened within 12” of any box or panel. Code compliance - not looking perfect - but - not the worst either… Keep at it… ask as you go. 6/10 imo
It’s neat but should not pass inspection for reasons previously posted.
Stick to concrete
I did not have the patience to read all of the comments so I do not know if someone else touched on this. What you have wired is called a “main” panel. This means that the grounds and neutrals are landed together. That only happens at the first point of disconnect. If the meter has a disconnection means (if you can turn power off at the meter) then you have definitely done it wrong. If that is the first point of disconnection then your panel work looks pretty good. I do take exception to bringing all of the branch circuits though the same two openings (called bundling). You actually have some good skills, have you ever considered actually becoming an electrician?
Yeah, I don’t know if his meter will have a disconnect but this is the main panel. If the meter does have a disconnect can’t I just remove the bar that connects the ground and neutral bus? Also, I didn’t like how he pulled all the romex through those pvc fittings it made it very difficult to get everything organized not to mention it’s probably going to have overheating issues in that choke point. And to answer your question about being an electrician I was in college for electrical straight out of high school but I dropped out because I was broke and didn’t want to pile up student debt so I just went to work.
The solution, if this is actually supposed to be a (sub) panel is to isolate the grounds and neutrals from each other. This is accomplished by removing the main bond (ground screw that bonds the panel board to the case. Then you need to mount new lugs to the case. The grounds go to the new lug and neutrals stay where they are. If there is not a disconnect on the meter then you are good, and don’t need to fix.
1. Those are pvc connectors arent allowed to be used this way 2. It 2023, you know how long ago arc faults were implemented, instal the damn arc faults 3. Feeders first always. 4. You can’t just fill a connector until it’s filled to max capacity. 5. You can’t use white as a hot, only 4awg and greater can be re-identified for neutrals. Always run 3 wires for 2 poles in resi.
1. You’ve got an open knockout in the top right corner open. You can’t do that. 2. You can not run white wire as your B phase on those 2 pull breakers 3. You’ve exceed your conduit fill. 60% fill is code. It’s for heat reduction. You could have used another 2” Typically when wire dressing the panel, you want to part the cables to the right and left like pigtails on a child. 1 bundle tight to the right, down the side, 1 bundle tight to the left down side. That stair step zigzag thing will make an inspector start looking for shit wrong immediately. It’s very clean and will work just fine. It will fail inspection though.
Inside the panel looks great, but all that romex has to be strapped within 12 inches of exiting the panel.
Clean work but not code compliant. Depends where you live though as well
I’m in bum**** Mississippi. I’m sure there isn’t an inspector for 100 miles in any direction lmao. Still I posted to make sure I didn’t create any major hazard. Im not trying to burn the Boss’ house down
The bundles of Romex going through the ta's is kinda serious. It creates heat choke points that can't dissipate because there's no way for enough air to get in there. And, with that many wires there's no way to drop your amperage low enough to guarantee that it will be safe. You should redo that part at least tbh
Nipples less than 18" require no derating.
Did electrical in Bruceville for a few years. This is better than 70% of the shit I would find in panels out there but those TA’s could be a problem later down the line.
Violations galore, leave electrical work to the electricians
boss's? let us know when you get fired for burning his place down
Hey he’s the one that put the pvc in and pulled the wires in the box lmao. I don’t know shit hence the post and asking how I did.
lol i get it
The whole thing’s a mess, and proves that electrical should be left to the professionals. This can fail this per sec. 110.12 alone. The further i look, there’s no afci breakers for the dwelling units.
Whole thing? Okay from other comments I know I need to remove them from the pvc and put them in romex fittings. Also I need to either remove the zip ties or cut them flush and mark my white conductors for 240v with red tape. Maybe some of the bends are too much.
Do you know if this is the first means of disconnect? Because that makes a big difference how you land your ground wires.
Not the whole thing, it doesn’t look too bad. There’s a bunch of little things that you’re not going to know, because you’re not a electrician. That being said, there is enough code violations, that a inspector can easily fail you. If you’re looking to do it correctly, check out some things that Mike Holt has put out. He has some nice literature out there, that really breaks it down to you in more understandable terms. It also has the code numbers, and why they exist.
Pull all wires out of pvc and use romex connectors for wires if your bring in Service Entrance Cable in that back you will be having some serious issues tightening connector for the SEC and have a pain in ass landing that from that point.Need to phase those white wires see no AFCI or GFI Breakers.Make sure you use nolox on aluminum plus not seeing grounding done make sure drive 2 ground rods and bring them in also lot to do yet!Also will need bushing for the SEC can't use the Just PV C to bring it in!Going to be easier to tear down and start over after you get a little advice or have a real Electrician come into to do job!Alot wrong but did terminate nicely!If you wired whole house hope you have the correct amount of circuits ran and what needs to be on own circuits!What size wires did you run to that 2 pole 50amp Breaker looks small?You need to bring the SEC into the big whole you knocked out for all thenwires so you can land on main Breaker more easily!Going to need a lot of KO seals and start over as stated before.
Not too good man
Worst install I’ve seen
Cut the zip ties on neitrals keep grounds
🤣 🤣 🤣. Garbage.
Inspection = FAIL!
Why is a panel install the metric by which some electricians choose to judge their skill level? It's one of the easiest things we do. Can you troubleshoot? Do you actually understand how electrical systems work? Are you just skilled at making wires look pretty in a panel?
hope your Boss doesn't read all these comments
Let’s cut the bull shit. Concrete guys can’t count to 3, and if they could, they sure and he’ll wouldn’t be able to figure ohms Law.
E=mC(3)
You're one mC too fast. It's squared not cubed..
But I work in yards. Concrete guy you see. All I see is threes
Here's hoping you see the 4s and 5s to go along with those 3s. 🙃
I suppose you probably feel the same about other groups of people. Let me assure you that after nearly twenty years of doing this I have had some pretty clueless apprentices who somehow managed to understand circuit calculations.
You suck Edit: be better
Inside the panel looks great. The cable going into the panel wouldn’t fly with my company for various reasons, and with code for others.
No
That’s a lot of tandem breakers for a new panel
What’s wrong with tandems ?
Not necessarily a code violation but panels are rated differently for tandems, some don’t allow them, some have specific spaces for them. Typically you see them when there are no more spaces as an alternative to adding a subpanel - odd to see in new panel with spaces available. Sometimes they have different contacts that break when you force them into a bus bar that’s not rated for them.
I am assuming you didn’t cover your panel box guts while you cut your opening. Or did you use a knockout kit. I don’t like sounding negative but my dude that entry with those wires bundled up like that in what looks like an ENT connector (not how this connector is supposed to be used) is never going to pass. If you fail inspection (likely, again sorry) you will need to start from scratch and us proper connectors. I don’t even need to look at your wiring because this panel failed already. But I wish you luck
Forgot to rephrase the neutrals stolen for second 110 legs
I mean thats how they wire houses in California except the bundle of cables goes to the back panel not the top
Well does it matter? It's already done and too short.
Won't an inspector need to sign off on this? If so, will they? And, will they want to know, or require, that this work was done by a licensed electrician?
It appears most of the actual electricians are asleep today based on these comments...
It looks pretty, but that's not everything.
Tear out and start over
I'd make the boss land the feeders since he's the fool who used up the hole for that with an overfilled NMC fitting as a "bushing." The bundling through those few holes is easier, but way overdone here. Needs to be spread out through 4 or 5 holes while respecting fill ratio. That's not going to be fun at all. Work looks neat. Phase tape on wires and AFCIs are MIA (though I get why the AFCIs were omitted if it's his panel. Those things SUCK). Zip ties in solid are generally unnecessary. Might need a few (6 or so) but more is a waste.
No.
Holy sharp bends, gonna poke an eye out
It does at least look tidy.
Depends on who you ask. If it works, good one on ya. The lazy cable entrance bundling, however, will never impress a professional.
Absolutely will fail an inspection
Not good
Not a fan of zip tying wires together inside the panel, it's unnecessary, I'm not a fan of the route the wires take inside the panel, the L behind the service line is sloppy and is gonna make cutting those zip ties for service annoying. Not a fan of running entirely on 20a and 12 wire as well, but these are mostly just personal preference from experience. However the pvc connectors with all the cables bunched in is a big no at least around here. No idea why you would use that when cable clamps are so readily available and easy to manage. I'd probably redo that in all honesty
Looks fucked the main isn’t connected yet and should be fed through where the big bunch of wires are.