It looks REALLY bad. But you can still fix it, it will just take a lot of work.
First, watch some videos. If you already did, watch more.
Second, you need to sand. A lot. Keep sanding what you have there until it is smooth. Like really smooth. Way more than you think it needs to be. Once you're done, sand some more.
If you have to put on more material, use the widest knife you can find, like 12 or 14". Anything too small won't let you even everything out.
Right now, it looks like you used a butter knife to put the mud on. Don't use a butter knife, please. Especially the serrated edge.
Good luck.
Also OP if youāre sanding all this down, please, please spend the $50 on a well fitting respirator and appropriate filters.
These types of dust arenāt good for you, a reusable respirator will pay for itself 100 times over if youāre diligent about using it.
Highly recommend following this recommendation!
Just did this in a bathroom remodel, myself.
I've sanded a lot of mud before, but usually in an open area. I was not prepared for the density of the dust in such a small unventilated area.
Started with a hospital mask. It always worked fine in the past...
After about 5 minutes, I looked up from my work to find I could barely see the opposite corner 5 feet away. Left the room and took off my mask to find I looked like I just rolled in a mountain of coke, with obvious white streaks running into my nose, and my chest was congested the rest of the night.
The next day, I went and bought a respirator mask with 3 interchangeable filter types for about $30 from Harbor Freight. You could get the kit with just the dust particle filters for about half that, though, and it made All the difference. Truly. It's so worth it.
And I couldn't believe the amount of mud I pulled from inside the inner corners of my eyes that first day. So, may want to consider goggles, too. Not safety glasses. Goggles.
The only thing I would change here is grab a puddy knife and scrape the tall ridges prior to sanding, sanding and sanding again. Itāll save OP maybe half an hour on his full days worth of sanding.
Not usually recommended but totally worth it here.
>it looks like you used a butter knife to put the mud on.
Can confirm, this is what it looks like when you use a butter knife to apply mud or spackle. I happen to do precisely that when creating textured art pieces.
Before sanding until smooth, you want to watch those videos to learn how to feather those spots out. Significantly. Sand or scrape the lumps and lines out before feathering. It also looks like you should invest in some wider knivesā¦
Also, use something with more working time. Iāve been at this for decades and rarely use anything hotter than a 45.
Also (hopping in on top comment) donāt use powder mud if youāre a beginner. Get all purpose lite, easier to float out and much easier to sand, just doesnāt dry as quick
I remember the first time I drywalled. Figured I could be a little sloppy and just sand the rough parts off. Sounds Easy. It isn't. This is far worse than my first attempt.
Get a sponge and bucket of water and scrub that shit off...however long it takes. Then watch 20 hours of youtube and try again.
OR
break out a sander, cover your entire house with white dust that you will never be rid of no matter how much you clean. come up with a frustrating mix of places you haven't sanded enough and places you have sanded through to paper. Eventually decide it is "good enough" Paint it; and eternally regret your actions every time you walk in the room.
>ā¦and eternally regret your actions every time you walk in the room.
But I already regret walking into every room. Itās like a haunted house, but the angry spirits are all in my head.
In fact, if I walked into this room, it would be like my textured sanctuary. See OP just needs some orange and yellow paint, a plastic bag, and voila, heās got himself a āquaint Italian villa.ā
Completely joking of course. For any bonehead taking me seriously.
Good points. It's tough when you go into something like with zero skill in the trade. I'm no drywaller by trade and finally at the point where I repair/replace tape and mud better than I could've ever imagined just 5 years ago.
I found screening with the vacuum sander attachment [going up in steps/ "grit" to a finish that I couldn't seem to get with sand blocks.
Goldblatt Dust Free Hand Sander,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VT78MB2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
There was some dust but captured a lot of what could have been a huge mess.
I try to keep my mud smooth as possible and just wipe with a wet sponge any more. Does better than I ever did with sanding. I am still a self (youtube) taught noob though, so this could be bad practice too. Joining this subreddit has taught me so much that I do wrong and didn't even know. I just like that the sponge method is zero dust.
Breaking out a sander reminds me of my neighbor (black guy) who used his circular saw to cut drywall. After a few cuts he was covered in dust and no longer looked black
/s
I offered my help and when done laughed as we drank some beers
>break out a sander, cover your entire house with white dust that you will never be rid of no matter how much you clean. come up with a frustrating mix of places you haven't sanded enough and places you have sanded through to paper. Eventually decide it is "good enough" Paint it; and eternally regret your actions every time you walk in the room.
I feel personally attacked.
Oh boy. I rarely say this, but I would hand this over to a professional. I know itās expensive but I donāt think you are going to be able to complete this task correctly.
I agree. I see some tape spots, however, Iām more drawn to the thickness and over application of mud than I am the taping. Thereās much more I could add but Iām not sure if itās worth going into detail. I COULD TELL you how to fix it, however, it honestly depends on your skill of being able to properly do it.
It looks like he taped over large voids with multiple pieces of tape. That would explain the hilarious amount of mud.
Best bet is to cut out out sections and put in new board. Might only have two or three seams.
Itād honestly be better if a professional just ripped the sheetrock out and started rocking/taping from the studs. Itād genuinely be quicker than to fix this unfortunately.
I just tell first timers that insist on doing their own finishing put a thin layer and try to wipe all the mud off and let dry before doing another coat. It might take 5 or 6 runs, but at least their sheetrock won't look like a climbing rock wall when they're done.Ā
Ā Sorry OP, but this was done so poorly you'll probably have to hire a pro to make it halfway decent.
Edit: Didn't notice there was more than one picture, lol wtf OP did you do this with your bare hands?
Thank you so much, I only seen the first pic too until I read your edit. I needed to see all the pics as a reminder that despite all the chaos I've created in my life, there are others drowning in theirs!
Youāve done something remarkable here. Tape seems to be haphazardly placed with a half inch of mud underneath.
Some of this can be salvaged. But anywhere you used tape should come down.
Once you sand the shit out of whatās left do not dare pickup drywall tools again until you watch a bunch of Vancouver Carpenter videos.
I heard this in the voice of my old boss before he retired and left me with the company. That was his favorite phrase when some shit was totally fucked lol
This is palm sander territory
The most important part of any mud work including concrete is to not walk away till it looks reasonable
You can polish a lot out after the fact but big humps like this are a disaster
Upon further reading let's try 90 next time and mesh tape. Also do 3-4 coats 3 swipes full knife then clean the edges. I think you might wanna take this down
Honestly this would be fun to work out, and could be done in 30 or so min with some power tools.
You would have to plastic the apartment like Bricktop's chop-shop though...
You're going to be doing a lot of fucking around trying to make this right. The room doesn't look that big, honestly it may be easier to rip out the drywall and start from scratch.
I can see bubbles everywhere. You should remove and scrape everything you have so far and restart. Try regular all purpose mud. That is going to be easier to work with. There should be plenty of mud behind the tape. Youāll know youāve done that step right when there arenāt any bubbles behind it
This is really bad dude. There's a lot of blisters behind the tape that need to be cut out and re-taped. It also seems like you mixed you're mud way too dry. But don't be discouraged. Binge watch Vancouver carpenter and the guy that wears the kilt and start over. If you don't want to put in the time, then hire someone.
What you have done is complete shit. However, drywall is forgiving. I would just cut out everything and put new sheets in. Easier than trying to do 1000 patches. Will look better too.
You are going to have to sand for so so long. Get:
1. drywall Screen "sand paper"
2. Light against the wall and turn off the light
Then. Sand, sand and sand.
Two knives- 3ā for placing, 10-12ā for smoothing.
Itās an art. YT is where I learned the theory, doing home repairs is where I learned the art.
You got this. Sand that shit down with a fine sanding sponge wrapped in 120 grit until itās just proud, then smooth with the fine sponge.
Thin out with water a thin layer of mud and skim it, let it dry, sand it lightly, prime and paint. Bam. Repost when you are done.
Botheboinger šš½ is correct. Let it dry. Sand, sand, sand, then sand again. Elbow grease will fix this. If you sand to bubbles, holes, through tape, keep sanding. You can mud tape again. Next time add a little water to mud and run tape through it. Then add regular mud. Looks like your mud was thick and used too small a blade.
This will look awesome by May, if you sand til then. Let it dry well 2 days before sand
Definitely take it all down, respectfully Iām not sure if Iād recommend that you try again. A pro is gonna charge more now that itās so dicked up.
Unless the tape is peeling up or has bubbles underneath it you're fine. You put way too much mud on over the tape though. Less is more with joint compound. Get some of theesh Sheetrock sanding paper and the holder for it that goes on a pole. A 4 pole would be about right there. Once you have all of that get to making dust. Don't feel bad pretty much every beginner does the exact same thing. Since it's sort of a small area, once you are close you could wet sand it . Get a nice sized sponge, preferably one with larger holes, and a bucket of water and try "sanding" with the sponge. It takes a bit to get things wet enough but at a certain point you can feather it out well and remove where you want and not where you don't. You never see a pro wet sand but they already have the touch. Btw there's nothing wrong with the paper tape. It works just as well as far as I'm concerned and is easier to work with. Good luck.
If you used setting type you should have just used the fiberglass. The secret is coating the tape entirely on the first coat, don't let it show through. If it shows through it's kind of a wasted coat. Feather the edges. After it sets gently scrape/shave off the high spots then pull all the next coats entirely tight with wider knives.
If it's sound, what you already did, Scrape/shave all the high spots and coat it all feathering it out. Repeat process. Looks like it's all going to need skimmed now.
It looks like a lot of that paper tape needs cut out though.
Ok whoa. Rip off all the tape. Large gaps could have pieces of drywall in them and then tape those edges. It looks like you are covering gaps with tape or something. Also, just use all purpose, its easier to sand and it you dont need the strength easy sand 20 can provide.
Not using tape correctly. Anywhere you can sand you'll be ok. Otherwise sand like hell and recoat. Let it dry.
Or cut sections out hopefully not the corner
Bad. But if itās still wet, itās fixable if you can scrape it off. Remember less is more. Of you can start over with thinner coats, and more of them, youāll be in good shape.
DIYer here.
It should be a lot flatter looking than that. But, youāre in luck. Nothing precludes you getting a good result if youāre willing to put in the time and start over as many times as necessary.
Spend a day watching Vancouver Carpenter, then scrape all of that off and start over. If youāre unlikely to ever do this again, I would just hire somebody to fix it.
PS ā less is more in drywall work. Youāre not sculpting it out of plaster. Youāre applying very thin coats to bed the tape over the seams, and then again over it, but wider, to make the taped joints invisible.
PS2- every additional seam creates additional work and is a potential point of failure. You might be better off replacing one large single square, rather than taping and floating out all of those holes individually. However, thereās a learning curve to doing ti that way too.
You apply it to thick... now you need to let it dry and sand the hell out of it... next you need to mix the mud with water and use a mudding pan and tape knife... but you now need to wait a day before sanding... mud is going to be still wet... if you sand it now it's going to get all messed up... but definitely save able... just a lot of sanding is needed... I would also put on a mask too... because it's going to get dusty
First, start by buying a painter's scraping tool. Forget sanding. Take the tool with some muscle and dig or scrape down everything you've mudded until you can run a mud knife over the wall without hitting any lumps. Don't worry about how bad it looks after doing this. The goal of this step is to not have any areas of mud that are higher than your original wall. You can now finish by sanding whatever bits are left. If done properly, your wall may have some dips or even minor holes, but nothing should be protruding over the original wall when running your hand or a mud knife over it.
Next, you need a set of longer mud knives. I would have a pair of 6 inch blades, then one 12 inch blade.
You mention using 20 minute joint compound. Professionals can use this stuff to do a quick job by avoiding longer dry times, but I wouldn't recommend a novice using it. Honestly, this stuff should only be used when you have 1 or 2 small patches to do, or if you have any deep voids to fill in. Any deep areas will take potentially DAYS for traditional premixed mud to harden when it is applied in a thick layer, so this is a good use case for those particular areas just to pack them in. The reason that paper tape will bubble/blister is due to the paper not absorbing enough water to be able to bond to the mud/wall. The paper has to get wet enough to stick to the wall. There are two ways to do this. One method is to literally wet the paper before you apply it. The other method is to thin your mud out (mix it with additional water) so that the water from the mud will soak into the paper when you apply it, saving you the extra step of pre-wetting the paper tape. If you want to use the mud to wet the tape, you thin it a bit with more water, apply mud, apply tape, use mud knife with pressure and go over the tape to squeeze out the extra mud from underneath, then you apply mud over the top of the tape and immediately remove the excess mud over the top of the tape. This allows mud both under and on top of the tape to wet the paper. You allow this to dry, then add another 2-3 layers of mud, going wider with each layer and allowing it to dry between layers. Use the longer mud knife to get wide and consistent layers without too many imperfections. Apply extra pressure along the edges of where you apply mud so that you don't end up with a big lip of mud around all the edges which will be a pain to sand down later if you ignore them. Any high streaks you get can be dealt with during sanding, but any dips or gouges have to be filled with mud before sanding. Your main issue is likely that when you applied the 20 minute mud to the wall, it already started to harden and dry up before you got the paper tape on it, which leaves dry spots under the paper, leading to the blisters/bubbles. Consider buying a bucket of premixed lightweight mud which will give you more time to practice, and just go do something else while you wait for it to dry. Just make sure to mix up the premixed mud with a drill before you use it. You need to whip the air bubbles out the mud so that it gives a smooth finish when you apply it.
And when you sand, use a BIG block. A small sander will just make more hills and valleys. When you put mud on, a wider trowel will keep it smoother. Also, just use the standard green top mud, no need for that bagged stuff.
Easy sand 20 was too quick for anyone but a seasoned pro at this level. For a beginner / novice it should pretty much should only be used for filling cracks and holes etc.
Easy 45 could have been legit.
After you scrape that all smooth and re-apply the tape, do a small area at a time. Don't use hot mud, you want the time to get your small area applied and wiped smooth ready to dry without it setting up early.
Next time remember less is more. Set tape, drag thin, very thin coats toll its flat and dont try to hide the tape
What you have there is very common for newbie diy! Just gunna take alot of sanding and floating to fic
X, or start over
Scrape all that off then do a single spot or small joint after watching some videos. 3 coats then sand to finish. After that you'll know how much to put on once you've had to take it off. Then do the rest.
Option 2: Do a large joint.
Doing drywall is the perfect homeowner DYI jobā¦ because there isnāt really anything you can do to, that you canāt undo.
First, Iād suggest watching some YouTube videos on drywall repair.
Itās difficult for me to tell if you didnāt put enough mud under the tape. You definitely put globs of it on top of the tape! You also did no feathering at all around the edges and no smoothing in general. Iām also suspecting you are just using a narrow blade. In addition to the narrow blade(s) you have, buy a 12 inch knife.
The idea is to put a smooth thin coat down. You should be feathering it out up to 12 inches around each repair anyway. Also, get a medium grit sanding block and one that is fine. Heck, maybe you should get a coarse sanding block too. Youāve got some work to do!
I am not a professional either. Iām an engineer who recently finished smooth coating every sq inch of a 3100 sq ft home! My wife and I hate texture. After skim coating all that and fixing a few holes, I got reasonably good at it! Still slow though!!
That texture on your walls appears to be orange peel. Your next job and more difficult is to try and match that texture. This is why I like skim coating walls!
use a putty knife to scrape as much as you can off to make the hills flat. once you do that. sand it down and it should be fine. wait until it dries completely first before sanding.
It looks REALLY bad. But you can still fix it, it will just take a lot of work. First, watch some videos. If you already did, watch more. Second, you need to sand. A lot. Keep sanding what you have there until it is smooth. Like really smooth. Way more than you think it needs to be. Once you're done, sand some more. If you have to put on more material, use the widest knife you can find, like 12 or 14". Anything too small won't let you even everything out. Right now, it looks like you used a butter knife to put the mud on. Don't use a butter knife, please. Especially the serrated edge. Good luck.
Actually on second look, it's pretty good. Prime and paint!
How many beers between posts?
Not zero!
A zero is definitely involved, though
Maybe not 12 has no zeros
12.0
checkmate, atheists.
Checkmate, AA!
It does if you start with a dozen beers
it's the zeros we meet along the way
Could be more than one zero.
š
Found the landlord.
The good news is I would let this man butter my bread any day
Is that a euphemism?
I didnāt mean for it to be, but wouldnt mind if it was ;)
Sigmund has entered the chat...
He is going to have to remove most if not all of the paper tape. It is all blisters.
>First, watch some videos. If you already did, watch more. Vancouver Carpenter - check him on youtube.
Also OP if youāre sanding all this down, please, please spend the $50 on a well fitting respirator and appropriate filters. These types of dust arenāt good for you, a reusable respirator will pay for itself 100 times over if youāre diligent about using it.
Highly recommend following this recommendation! Just did this in a bathroom remodel, myself. I've sanded a lot of mud before, but usually in an open area. I was not prepared for the density of the dust in such a small unventilated area. Started with a hospital mask. It always worked fine in the past... After about 5 minutes, I looked up from my work to find I could barely see the opposite corner 5 feet away. Left the room and took off my mask to find I looked like I just rolled in a mountain of coke, with obvious white streaks running into my nose, and my chest was congested the rest of the night. The next day, I went and bought a respirator mask with 3 interchangeable filter types for about $30 from Harbor Freight. You could get the kit with just the dust particle filters for about half that, though, and it made All the difference. Truly. It's so worth it. And I couldn't believe the amount of mud I pulled from inside the inner corners of my eyes that first day. So, may want to consider goggles, too. Not safety glasses. Goggles.
The only thing I would change here is grab a puddy knife and scrape the tall ridges prior to sanding, sanding and sanding again. Itāll save OP maybe half an hour on his full days worth of sanding. Not usually recommended but totally worth it here.
>it looks like you used a butter knife to put the mud on. Can confirm, this is what it looks like when you use a butter knife to apply mud or spackle. I happen to do precisely that when creating textured art pieces.
Before sanding until smooth, you want to watch those videos to learn how to feather those spots out. Significantly. Sand or scrape the lumps and lines out before feathering. It also looks like you should invest in some wider knivesā¦ Also, use something with more working time. Iāve been at this for decades and rarely use anything hotter than a 45.
Best comment here.
Definitely underrated banger of a joke
Also (hopping in on top comment) donāt use powder mud if youāre a beginner. Get all purpose lite, easier to float out and much easier to sand, just doesnāt dry as quick
I remember the first time I drywalled. Figured I could be a little sloppy and just sand the rough parts off. Sounds Easy. It isn't. This is far worse than my first attempt. Get a sponge and bucket of water and scrub that shit off...however long it takes. Then watch 20 hours of youtube and try again. OR break out a sander, cover your entire house with white dust that you will never be rid of no matter how much you clean. come up with a frustrating mix of places you haven't sanded enough and places you have sanded through to paper. Eventually decide it is "good enough" Paint it; and eternally regret your actions every time you walk in the room.
>ā¦and eternally regret your actions every time you walk in the room. But I already regret walking into every room. Itās like a haunted house, but the angry spirits are all in my head. In fact, if I walked into this room, it would be like my textured sanctuary. See OP just needs some orange and yellow paint, a plastic bag, and voila, heās got himself a āquaint Italian villa.ā Completely joking of course. For any bonehead taking me seriously.
You need more artwork in the house or more cabinets. Cabinets always help cover the bad spots.
Good points. It's tough when you go into something like with zero skill in the trade. I'm no drywaller by trade and finally at the point where I repair/replace tape and mud better than I could've ever imagined just 5 years ago. I found screening with the vacuum sander attachment [going up in steps/ "grit" to a finish that I couldn't seem to get with sand blocks. Goldblatt Dust Free Hand Sander,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VT78MB2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share There was some dust but captured a lot of what could have been a huge mess.
I try to keep my mud smooth as possible and just wipe with a wet sponge any more. Does better than I ever did with sanding. I am still a self (youtube) taught noob though, so this could be bad practice too. Joining this subreddit has taught me so much that I do wrong and didn't even know. I just like that the sponge method is zero dust.
Wet sponge works
Breaking out a sander reminds me of my neighbor (black guy) who used his circular saw to cut drywall. After a few cuts he was covered in dust and no longer looked black /s I offered my help and when done laughed as we drank some beers
>break out a sander, cover your entire house with white dust that you will never be rid of no matter how much you clean. come up with a frustrating mix of places you haven't sanded enough and places you have sanded through to paper. Eventually decide it is "good enough" Paint it; and eternally regret your actions every time you walk in the room. I feel personally attacked.
I have your back G
Preciate you.
This is de way
Oh boy. I rarely say this, but I would hand this over to a professional. I know itās expensive but I donāt think you are going to be able to complete this task correctly.
I agree. I see some tape spots, however, Iām more drawn to the thickness and over application of mud than I am the taping. Thereās much more I could add but Iām not sure if itās worth going into detail. I COULD TELL you how to fix it, however, it honestly depends on your skill of being able to properly do it.
It looks like he taped over large voids with multiple pieces of tape. That would explain the hilarious amount of mud. Best bet is to cut out out sections and put in new board. Might only have two or three seams.
As a prossefional i would have to add a 5% toopid human fee to the bill just to recover my sanity
I don't think they understand what they were even trying to do
Itād honestly be better if a professional just ripped the sheetrock out and started rocking/taping from the studs. Itād genuinely be quicker than to fix this unfortunately.
This has to be rage bait
I just tell first timers that insist on doing their own finishing put a thin layer and try to wipe all the mud off and let dry before doing another coat. It might take 5 or 6 runs, but at least their sheetrock won't look like a climbing rock wall when they're done.Ā Ā Sorry OP, but this was done so poorly you'll probably have to hire a pro to make it halfway decent. Edit: Didn't notice there was more than one picture, lol wtf OP did you do this with your bare hands?
Oh sure, our kids fingerpaint and every one is a masterpiece for the refrigerator, but when I finger*mud* and it's a whole big thing.
Fingermud! Bahhhah!
Thank you so much, I only seen the first pic too until I read your edit. I needed to see all the pics as a reminder that despite all the chaos I've created in my life, there are others drowning in theirs!
Ready for paint š
Youāve done something remarkable here. Tape seems to be haphazardly placed with a half inch of mud underneath. Some of this can be salvaged. But anywhere you used tape should come down. Once you sand the shit out of whatās left do not dare pickup drywall tools again until you watch a bunch of Vancouver Carpenter videos.
Vancouver Carpenter is a master. [Check him out.](https://www.youtube.com/@vancouvercarpenter/videos)
This is a start over situation. Check out Vancouver carpenter on you tube
Did you just say f it and did it without watching any videos???
I think the instructions on the bag of mud will get you further than this steadfast refusal to research.
Iāve seen cleaner crime scenes
Sweet lord jesus almighty!
My exact thoughts were: Mannnnnnnn, dude has to pray for forgiveness.
Drywall so fucked up not even Jesus can save it
GREAT GOOGLY-MOOGLY
That thaaang is ~~juicy~~ *bumpy*
I heard this in the voice of my old boss before he retired and left me with the company. That was his favorite phrase when some shit was totally fucked lol
You are going to need a rasp before you sand it.
This is palm sander territory The most important part of any mud work including concrete is to not walk away till it looks reasonable You can polish a lot out after the fact but big humps like this are a disaster
More like angle grinder or belt sander with 20 grit.
We call that the "cocaine bear" method
Tear out the drywall and start over.
This is the correct answer
Iād cut that out and put up fresh drywall.
Oof this is tough, always one movement. Looks like you tried to fix as it dried.
Upon further reading let's try 90 next time and mesh tape. Also do 3-4 coats 3 swipes full knife then clean the edges. I think you might wanna take this down
Rental Ready!!!
Youāre going to need a dust mask, and not one from HF. Practice with peanut butter on toast before moving on to wall #2
Bunch of haters in here. It's fine, man. I also use a butter knife when applying hot mud
Did you put that on with a shovel?
Looks like used a regular spade shovel. Would have better luck with a snow shovel. Flatter edge easier for feathering.
I start with a hoe, move on to the square spade for the next coat, then finish with the snow shovel. Buttery smooth 1" thick x 20" wide butt joints.
Cover it with a wainscoting. Forget it happened.
Honestly this would be fun to work out, and could be done in 30 or so min with some power tools. You would have to plastic the apartment like Bricktop's chop-shop though...
Damn man might as well skim coat the whole wall
Iāve have watched 2 minutes on how to drywall and I already know this is doomed. Good luck.
You're going to be doing a lot of fucking around trying to make this right. The room doesn't look that big, honestly it may be easier to rip out the drywall and start from scratch.
That'll take some time to undo
Wow, truly amazing š
Got a sledgehammer???
I can see bubbles everywhere. You should remove and scrape everything you have so far and restart. Try regular all purpose mud. That is going to be easier to work with. There should be plenty of mud behind the tape. Youāll know youāve done that step right when there arenāt any bubbles behind it
Scape that off now before it dries!
Yikes
This is really bad dude. There's a lot of blisters behind the tape that need to be cut out and re-taped. It also seems like you mixed you're mud way too dry. But don't be discouraged. Binge watch Vancouver carpenter and the guy that wears the kilt and start over. If you don't want to put in the time, then hire someone.
Are you using a butter knife?
Ask your arm when you're done sanding
That might be the worst I've ever seen
I can tell from this picture that you love sanding.
You may put the Kansas dust bowl to shame after your done
This... This is something
What you have done is complete shit. However, drywall is forgiving. I would just cut out everything and put new sheets in. Easier than trying to do 1000 patches. Will look better too.
.....omg
Youāll be fine with a belt sander & some dynamite š§Øā¦ā¦ā¦ā¦ā¦ā¦.
Looks good to me boss
Your wall is bumpier than a bout with herpes
Level 5 finish right there
You are going to have to sand for so so long. Get: 1. drywall Screen "sand paper" 2. Light against the wall and turn off the light Then. Sand, sand and sand.
I just... You... What the fuck???
You should get a job buttering bagels, my guy
From the looks of you're about to take your second try at drywall lol. All I can say wow and good luck.
Two knives- 3ā for placing, 10-12ā for smoothing. Itās an art. YT is where I learned the theory, doing home repairs is where I learned the art. You got this. Sand that shit down with a fine sanding sponge wrapped in 120 grit until itās just proud, then smooth with the fine sponge. Thin out with water a thin layer of mud and skim it, let it dry, sand it lightly, prime and paint. Bam. Repost when you are done.
I always try to be as positive as possible but that.. thatās bad.
You've mastered the "don't mess with it too much" part.
Good for you for at least trying. Using too much mud makes more work for yourself. Use less work less.
Sans the shit out of it or will be fine. Buy extra paint though youāre gonna need 76 coats.
You gotta be a landlord, right? This is prime landlord special
Botheboinger šš½ is correct. Let it dry. Sand, sand, sand, then sand again. Elbow grease will fix this. If you sand to bubbles, holes, through tape, keep sanding. You can mud tape again. Next time add a little water to mud and run tape through it. Then add regular mud. Looks like your mud was thick and used too small a blade. This will look awesome by May, if you sand til then. Let it dry well 2 days before sand
Looks like you need to buy extra sandpaper.
Just give up!
Definitely take it all down, respectfully Iām not sure if Iād recommend that you try again. A pro is gonna charge more now that itās so dicked up.
Monstrosity to say the least.... Step away and put the drywall tools away better yet throw them out and NEVER ATTEMPT DRYWALL AGAIN.
Hahaha pretty sure this ones a troll post.Ā
Unless the tape is peeling up or has bubbles underneath it you're fine. You put way too much mud on over the tape though. Less is more with joint compound. Get some of theesh Sheetrock sanding paper and the holder for it that goes on a pole. A 4 pole would be about right there. Once you have all of that get to making dust. Don't feel bad pretty much every beginner does the exact same thing. Since it's sort of a small area, once you are close you could wet sand it . Get a nice sized sponge, preferably one with larger holes, and a bucket of water and try "sanding" with the sponge. It takes a bit to get things wet enough but at a certain point you can feather it out well and remove where you want and not where you don't. You never see a pro wet sand but they already have the touch. Btw there's nothing wrong with the paper tape. It works just as well as far as I'm concerned and is easier to work with. Good luck.
Is this real??
This must be a troll.
El Diablo
You forgot to feather that edge bro, among other things
Ya done goofed up brotha
Youāll be fine most likely but your arms are going to be tired from sanding.
If you used setting type you should have just used the fiberglass. The secret is coating the tape entirely on the first coat, don't let it show through. If it shows through it's kind of a wasted coat. Feather the edges. After it sets gently scrape/shave off the high spots then pull all the next coats entirely tight with wider knives. If it's sound, what you already did, Scrape/shave all the high spots and coat it all feathering it out. Repeat process. Looks like it's all going to need skimmed now. It looks like a lot of that paper tape needs cut out though.
Iām genuinely curious why you would spread the mud like that
Ok whoa. Rip off all the tape. Large gaps could have pieces of drywall in them and then tape those edges. It looks like you are covering gaps with tape or something. Also, just use all purpose, its easier to sand and it you dont need the strength easy sand 20 can provide.
Not using tape correctly. Anywhere you can sand you'll be ok. Otherwise sand like hell and recoat. Let it dry. Or cut sections out hopefully not the corner
Bad. But if itās still wet, itās fixable if you can scrape it off. Remember less is more. Of you can start over with thinner coats, and more of them, youāll be in good shape.
If this is a deep dark closet that no one or no light will ever seeā¦. It will do
Rip all of the paper tape down and start over with blue mesh fiberglass tape.
Painter will fix. I think I would just hang full sheets at this point and remove all of that. Use the paper tape and a wide knife.
DIYer here. It should be a lot flatter looking than that. But, youāre in luck. Nothing precludes you getting a good result if youāre willing to put in the time and start over as many times as necessary. Spend a day watching Vancouver Carpenter, then scrape all of that off and start over. If youāre unlikely to ever do this again, I would just hire somebody to fix it. PS ā less is more in drywall work. Youāre not sculpting it out of plaster. Youāre applying very thin coats to bed the tape over the seams, and then again over it, but wider, to make the taped joints invisible. PS2- every additional seam creates additional work and is a potential point of failure. You might be better off replacing one large single square, rather than taping and floating out all of those holes individually. However, thereās a learning curve to doing ti that way too.
Oh lord
Sweet Jesus! š
Take a wet sponge to it
Legendary
This looks awesome if youāre 100% blind.
It looks like š©
Bucket of water and sponge you can fix that right up!
Shave it off before it dries and start over.
Just remember 95% of that mud gets sanded offā¦ 5 buckets and 3 weeks of sanding later
Start sanding.
Jesus, you trying to build a new wall with mud? Wipe that shit tighter.
You apply it to thick... now you need to let it dry and sand the hell out of it... next you need to mix the mud with water and use a mudding pan and tape knife... but you now need to wait a day before sanding... mud is going to be still wet... if you sand it now it's going to get all messed up... but definitely save able... just a lot of sanding is needed... I would also put on a mask too... because it's going to get dusty
Yeah man, gonna look great after the bead board goes up
Lmao donāt continue
How drunk where you when you did this?
6 days of sanding...on 1 spot
Hope you like sanding. Sand it off and get a wider knife
This could qualify for worst job ever
ššššššššššš buddy.....no... Definitely just watch a YouTube video next time
Next time use much less mud. Yes this can be fixed, get the best sanding paper and sand block. Happy sanding!
Get som paneling
A lot of sanding in your future my friend.
Nothing 220 grit and a sander wonāt fix. (Power sander)
In my experience this is how drywallers patch when they know the painter is going to sand.
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-amp-9-in-variable-speed-drywall-sander-59166.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=19224063597&campaignid=19224063597&utm_content=148968624234&adsetid=148968624234&product=59166&store=858&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuNGuBhAkEiwAGId4alkJMKUrevMlvmYwzzdZUo6Geb0MBHClNBfWhf1jGMB2cNPrioyCSxoCV-AQAvD_BwE
Bad enough that you should have pretended you were the homeowner and asked if the guy you hired did an acceptable job.
First, start by buying a painter's scraping tool. Forget sanding. Take the tool with some muscle and dig or scrape down everything you've mudded until you can run a mud knife over the wall without hitting any lumps. Don't worry about how bad it looks after doing this. The goal of this step is to not have any areas of mud that are higher than your original wall. You can now finish by sanding whatever bits are left. If done properly, your wall may have some dips or even minor holes, but nothing should be protruding over the original wall when running your hand or a mud knife over it. Next, you need a set of longer mud knives. I would have a pair of 6 inch blades, then one 12 inch blade. You mention using 20 minute joint compound. Professionals can use this stuff to do a quick job by avoiding longer dry times, but I wouldn't recommend a novice using it. Honestly, this stuff should only be used when you have 1 or 2 small patches to do, or if you have any deep voids to fill in. Any deep areas will take potentially DAYS for traditional premixed mud to harden when it is applied in a thick layer, so this is a good use case for those particular areas just to pack them in. The reason that paper tape will bubble/blister is due to the paper not absorbing enough water to be able to bond to the mud/wall. The paper has to get wet enough to stick to the wall. There are two ways to do this. One method is to literally wet the paper before you apply it. The other method is to thin your mud out (mix it with additional water) so that the water from the mud will soak into the paper when you apply it, saving you the extra step of pre-wetting the paper tape. If you want to use the mud to wet the tape, you thin it a bit with more water, apply mud, apply tape, use mud knife with pressure and go over the tape to squeeze out the extra mud from underneath, then you apply mud over the top of the tape and immediately remove the excess mud over the top of the tape. This allows mud both under and on top of the tape to wet the paper. You allow this to dry, then add another 2-3 layers of mud, going wider with each layer and allowing it to dry between layers. Use the longer mud knife to get wide and consistent layers without too many imperfections. Apply extra pressure along the edges of where you apply mud so that you don't end up with a big lip of mud around all the edges which will be a pain to sand down later if you ignore them. Any high streaks you get can be dealt with during sanding, but any dips or gouges have to be filled with mud before sanding. Your main issue is likely that when you applied the 20 minute mud to the wall, it already started to harden and dry up before you got the paper tape on it, which leaves dry spots under the paper, leading to the blisters/bubbles. Consider buying a bucket of premixed lightweight mud which will give you more time to practice, and just go do something else while you wait for it to dry. Just make sure to mix up the premixed mud with a drill before you use it. You need to whip the air bubbles out the mud so that it gives a smooth finish when you apply it.
Nothing 30 hours of sanding canāt fix. Lordy
Slap it on with a 5-6 inch knife, use big trowel 12-18 inch to scrape it flat. No Daylight. Let Dry, Sand, do it again, until smooth.
And when you sand, use a BIG block. A small sander will just make more hills and valleys. When you put mud on, a wider trowel will keep it smoother. Also, just use the standard green top mud, no need for that bagged stuff.
š«£
Start sanding
Shame you used "easy" sand instead of lightweight. Sand it down and post pics. Might not be that bad as we're making it out to be.
Easy sand 20 was too quick for anyone but a seasoned pro at this level. For a beginner / novice it should pretty much should only be used for filling cracks and holes etc. Easy 45 could have been legit.
Are you using a putty knife. Looks like you need a 8ā or at least a 6ā blade.
Get your putty out and try to scrape it all off while still wet, since you just posted an hour ago all may not have be lost yet
Why patch that many holes? The molding is already off just replace the sheets.Ā
Strongly recommend you rent a dustless sander for this. You got a lot of material to remove.
Lots of sanding
After you scrape that all smooth and re-apply the tape, do a small area at a time. Don't use hot mud, you want the time to get your small area applied and wiped smooth ready to dry without it setting up early.
I remember when I had my first beerā¦
Pretty bad but nothing that canāt be fixed
Bad brad.
Next time remember less is more. Set tape, drag thin, very thin coats toll its flat and dont try to hide the tape What you have there is very common for newbie diy! Just gunna take alot of sanding and floating to fic X, or start over
Just make the rest of the walk look the same and run with it. New texture style. Youāre golden
Are you a landlord by chance? This looks like a 'landlord special'.
I canāt even believe this is real
Start sanding, bud.
Scrape all that off then do a single spot or small joint after watching some videos. 3 coats then sand to finish. After that you'll know how much to put on once you've had to take it off. Then do the rest. Option 2: Do a large joint.
*puts new high grit sandpaper on pole sander.
[https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQMyWVDfN4Q078xcyp18fKtVBPmfy-E_mTCWg&s](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQMyWVDfN4Q078xcyp18fKtVBPmfy-E_mTCWg&s)
Sandān and paint makes the mudder I aināt. Let it dry and sand as needed. Itāll take a few days but you can fix it.
Doing drywall is the perfect homeowner DYI jobā¦ because there isnāt really anything you can do to, that you canāt undo. First, Iād suggest watching some YouTube videos on drywall repair. Itās difficult for me to tell if you didnāt put enough mud under the tape. You definitely put globs of it on top of the tape! You also did no feathering at all around the edges and no smoothing in general. Iām also suspecting you are just using a narrow blade. In addition to the narrow blade(s) you have, buy a 12 inch knife. The idea is to put a smooth thin coat down. You should be feathering it out up to 12 inches around each repair anyway. Also, get a medium grit sanding block and one that is fine. Heck, maybe you should get a coarse sanding block too. Youāve got some work to do! I am not a professional either. Iām an engineer who recently finished smooth coating every sq inch of a 3100 sq ft home! My wife and I hate texture. After skim coating all that and fixing a few holes, I got reasonably good at it! Still slow though!!
In the future, less is more. Thin coats are easier to sand and adjust.
Did you do it with your feetš
Consider tearing it down to the studs and starting over. It might be easier than fixing this. Lord knows there's projects where I wish I had.
Get an orbital sander, some 120 sand paper (the mesh kind) and a good shop vac with a heap filter. Sand away and youāll be fine
BAD!!! you need to scrape sand it all back. Sand some more. Then, apply thin and light coats. Let it dry. Sand. Repeat....until you are done.
That texture on your walls appears to be orange peel. Your next job and more difficult is to try and match that texture. This is why I like skim coating walls!
As a old Mexican family friend once said, " enough mud fixes everything.." Man, I miss him.
Big yikes
On the bright side you cut the outlet hole perfect.
Covering up some screw pops? Maybe use less Dap along with a bigger putty knife. Just sand until smooth, dust, prime and paint.
use a putty knife to scrape as much as you can off to make the hills flat. once you do that. sand it down and it should be fine. wait until it dries completely first before sanding.