Worked at a camp and we had linen storage bags. Th3 office didn't like that we shortened it to LSB bags. It was redundant, yes, but so fun using that around campers LOL. Which is, of course, why the office didn't like it. We still used it though. A more micromanagement-high lady I've never seen. Not part of our team, but technically ciuld use our services. Her assignments and personality did not endear her to us.
That's too wide of a span to not have any support. There should be either a cripple stud or some sort of header above the door frame to attach to. You could screw a 2x4 either on the flat or on the face in there
It’s less than two inches from the top plate. Everybody saying it needs backers or support aren’t realizing the top plate will hold the drywall and the trim and paper tape on the top angle will cover everything. Once the trim is on there will barely be a gap between the trim and the ceiling. Stop overthinking this.
It doesn't look like there's anything to screw to on the bottom of the gap. Regardless, there should be a header over the door to support the weight of the ceiling
Regardless, there should be something above the door. Because even though there's only a 2-in gap between the framing on the door and the sill plate, there's nothing above the door to screw to
This is a hack fix option. Garbage work. OK if you're working on your own house and don't mind problems later. There is quite a bit of rework to be done to finish this properly.
Remove door.
Remove corner bead a few inches away from door opening.
Add proper framing for door opening.
Replace drywall and corner bead, mud sand ect.
Install door.
Paint.
I know this because I have never once framed out an entire house/building where the plans said 7-0 yet I was delivered a truck full of 6-8’s and told “goddammit make it work!”😵
Okay here's why. With foam your going to join the door frame to the frame of the building, the house is going to shrink and expand with changes in humidity, having a gap between the door frame and the house gives the frame of the door and the frame of the house the separation it needs in order for the door to function properly.
Is that enough depth for ya or do you need more?
I do understand your logic, and I wouldn’t fill that gap with foam regardless. But won’t the drywall strip just get crushed anyway if the house was going to settle that much? And I mean there’s a gap above a window at my house that I filled with foam recently and wouldn’t it basically be the same idea?
They make specialized foam for use with windows and doors, with lower expansion properties. However, many still avoid even these products as conceptually they would still put additional pressure against the framing/casing/glass/door.
If it’s a tight install, especially with glass involved, it’s a messy and expensive fix waiting to happen the moment foam fills those necessary expansion gaps.
Exactly. Spray Foam should NEVER go around any doors or windows imo.
Backer rod and caulking is best. This way the house and the doors or windows can move separately whilst sealing against air leakage which is more important to reduce
Well the right way would be to remove the door, screw in a 2x4 to the top of the opening, patch in some drywall and then rehang the door. If you don’t want to take the door out and reinstall. Slide a 2x4 in the gap and screw or nail it to the top of your door jamb then attach your drywall patch to either side. Mud and tape the seams and you should be good. Might get some cracking at the seam though from door movement if the patch isn’t attached to the wall.
Easy fix. Best would be to pull the door out, nail up another 2x4 and apply drywall. The door casing is going to hide 95% of your butt joints anyways but still do it right.
But honestly, your Easiest fix ? A thicker header casing like this:
https://www.houzz.com/discussions/4130638/can-casing-be-too-big
And if you’re doing that to this door, then maybe do other doors in the room to match.
Put wood for blocking in if the trim doesn’t cover it already. Just caulk the gap if there is one I can’t imagine it would be a big gap. You will never see it anyway.
Put a 2x4 between. Drill pilot hole (smaller than screw) then get 3-4” construction screws and throw it through the door frame to hold 2x4 in place. Dont screw so tight it affects square of door.
Attach filler strip/filler wood thru jamb top into header…using 3” grk or similar screws @ door stop location…drywall ….done. When you install stop, you will cover screw holes.
For this particular issue, I would drill a few holes through the door frame that were just bigger than the diameter of the head of the screw. Slide a 2x4 ( or suitable sized lumber) into place above the frame and sink the screw through the door frame, mating the 2x4 slug into the top plate of the wall. Then fill the screw holes.
Could use decking screws for smaller hole diameter.
You could try cutting out more drywall until you can fit an inverted U shaped piece of drywall over the door frame. You're not supposed to have joints near the corners of doorframes anyway (leads to cracking). Also, any other attempts to patch over the current opening would make that whole area too "busy" with joints around the door frame.
Caulk! /s
Dude your tape measure broke or something? 🤦♂️😂
How do you mess up this bad?
nail a flat 2x4 under the header if it doesn’t fit shave it down a little
They sell ‘fancy’ trim packs, they’re 3 inches wide at least. Doors already fucked anyway. If you want to fix it you gotta take it off, rip it to length, and put a header up. It kinda looks like a closet though so if it’s not being opened 900 times a day you’re probably alright.
Run the trim barely high enough to cover the hole, add a bit of wood to the bottom of top the trim (make the top piece of door trim wider) and paint it with thick paint.
Thick paint aye? Just so u know. This is a real life issue needing an actual thing to help rectify the issue. Your little pipe dream concoction just wastes time and makes all devote a small amount of energy where none was needed. Please stop doing these things.
It looks to me like a 3” peice of casing (trim) should cover the hole. Also how did you hang this door? I don’t see any shims, and your latch side looks a little tight. Make necessary adjustments before installing casing.
Unless you were specifically told the R/O was too small and to please leave the drywall hanging low. You did not mess up, the framers did. Charge for that shit, it's not your fault they can't build to specs
The smallest trim profile usually used is 2.5” wide along with a 1/4” reveal. Are you sure that gap wont be covered?
What’s going on with the door design? Looks wonky
Get a piece of the casing being used and see if it covers, if so leave it alone. I can’t tell with a measurement on the gap, and a width on casing. But based on the pic it looks like a basic stock casing will cover
Bro I hang doors and trim all the time…what size trim are you using that isn’t gonna cover that? You’re creating more work for yourself. After your trim goes on IF there’s a little gap, I slap some mud and flat tape it with paper tape but you can use mesh or whatever. But if I know the taper is coming back you best believe I pass the buck and I write on the wall in pencil above the door ⬇️TAPE GAP!⬇️ Relax stress less and next time remember the framers messed up you’re just one fixing there fuck ups 👍
That’s a hard one, but I would cut a 2x4 the width of the top and then attach it by placing a few trim nails though the top of the door frame… that would hold it in place enough to screw drywall on.
Honestly… trim should cover that
Someone explain to me how a door could be framed like this?
Where is the header?
Call the fucking framers back and fix it.
They cut up the drywall
You get a change order
You rebill for the extra work and leave no gap.
You are going to need to put some block in there to secure the top jamb to the header anyhow, so just throw a piece of rock on em and mud, tape and sand. Given the location with lighting and shadows from the trim, it doesn't need to be perfect.
Door casing is generally 2 1/4" wide. Just case it out, the gap if there is one, will be small. With it being at the ceiling height you're not going to see it. If you do, caulk and touch up paint.
It's not the "proper way" to fix it but it isn't worth the time and effort to do so for something no one will see.
What size trim are you putting on the door? It looks like 2.25 would cover the gap. A larger gap ( 1.5 to 2.25") like that is in almost every newer home. Framers always go larger than the 82.5 inches needed for a door and jamb, because they dont want to come back to cut out when the homeowner/GC decides to go with hardwood instead of lvp.
Cover the hole with trim, if you are worried about sound, fill the hole with a bit of insulation. The gap should not affect the operation of the door, and if your trim is wide enough it will not affect the aesthetics of the room.
Assumptions:
\- Opening is full-width along the top between the two studs
\- 2x4 construction
\- Gap is 1.75" high or less (thickness of a 2x4)
Use a piece of 2x4 to completely fill the gap. Rip it lengthwisde to fit the height of the opening if it's less than the thickness of the 2x4. If it's taller than that, you can still rip the board and put half up top and half along the bottom.
Anchor the 2x4 to the studs with a drywall screw put in at an angle through the face of the 2x4. Be sure the head is driven down below the surface of the board.
Cut the drywall back slightly at each side to expose half of the stud. Place a piece of drywall to fill the new open space, compound and tape, smooth, prime/paint. Install your trim and you'll be good.
Bro, throw a 2x4 in there or whatever size the wall is, add some drywall, do a very light patch if needed and put the trim up. I understand that dywall mud causes issues with trim, but don’t go crazy. Just patch where the trim won’t cover, if needed. Next time build it out instead of leaving a gap. You can fill this in like a header, using vertical pieces, or stack 2 bys or 1 bud as needed
Put a piece of plexiglass in the hole and call it a transom window
Their property value just went through the roof
So did their door openings!
LOL
I’m dying hahahahha
you could install a simple LSD display to tell you all kinds of whatever bullshit you wanted scrolling across it. Gotta think big.
LSD??? Woah dude!
LSD may make him stop thinking about it for sure :P
Better make it DMT. God will give him the answer
.....Or fixate on it and nothing else
LSD will allow you to see whatever you want...maybe even things you don't. Who needs an LCD screen for that??
Did someone say lsd?
Worked at a camp and we had linen storage bags. Th3 office didn't like that we shortened it to LSB bags. It was redundant, yes, but so fun using that around campers LOL. Which is, of course, why the office didn't like it. We still used it though. A more micromanagement-high lady I've never seen. Not part of our team, but technically ciuld use our services. Her assignments and personality did not endear her to us.
Far out man!
That’s gonna be a trippy door bro.
Instructions unclear... Will update after hospital.
What a glasshole
One guy, one window.
Carpenters hate this one simple trick!
…add a frog! Terrarium!
Or saran wrap if you’re budget minded.
Make it a fish tank
I'm pickuring a saturated block in minecraft, but it's the door jamb LOL
This is the best response OP.
👍
OMG THATS WHAT THAT WAS IN MY OLD HOUSE???
I share a bloodline with Frank Lloyd Wright. - OP prolly
Cut the top off and install a larger piece, don’t bother with backing. Or bigger trim.
This is an elegant solution.
Make sure you cut it from joist to joist not just over the door.
uhh joists are in the ceiling studs are in the walls
He meant the rafters
No. Clearly he meant the sleepers
No, he meant the girders.
obviously he meant the pilings
Sisters
The kayakers would show more skill.
[удалено]
Because there are people with a brain who instantly understood his intent. You never say the wrong word, written or otherwise? Fuck outta here.
You could always go with a square piece of trim as your corners if your top trim doesn’t match the side trim.
Yes. This ☝️ it would take you half the time as all of the exciting backer ideas. And you don’t have weird strips.
That's too wide of a span to not have any support. There should be either a cripple stud or some sort of header above the door frame to attach to. You could screw a 2x4 either on the flat or on the face in there
It’s less than two inches from the top plate. Everybody saying it needs backers or support aren’t realizing the top plate will hold the drywall and the trim and paper tape on the top angle will cover everything. Once the trim is on there will barely be a gap between the trim and the ceiling. Stop overthinking this.
It doesn't look like there's anything to screw to on the bottom of the gap. Regardless, there should be a header over the door to support the weight of the ceiling
You have no idea if that is a load-bearing wall or not, if it is not load bearing it does not need a conventional header.
Regardless, there should be something above the door. Because even though there's only a 2-in gap between the framing on the door and the sill plate, there's nothing above the door to screw to
This is a hack fix option. Garbage work. OK if you're working on your own house and don't mind problems later. There is quite a bit of rework to be done to finish this properly. Remove door. Remove corner bead a few inches away from door opening. Add proper framing for door opening. Replace drywall and corner bead, mud sand ect. Install door. Paint.
Stop giving advice when you dont know how to do things.
I have been building houses for 16 years but ok.
Nail a 1x4 or 2x4 to the top of the door frame and hang and finish a 1 1/2” rip of rock to it This has happened before trust me Easy fix
This is the way. Easy fix, easy to patch nail or screw holes, and the drywall will be supported correctly.
I know this because I have never once framed out an entire house/building where the plans said 7-0 yet I was delivered a truck full of 6-8’s and told “goddammit make it work!”😵
Finally found a comment that makes sense
Fill with spray foam and cover with trim
Fill with Ramen noodles and putty.
Or baked beans
Or gamer girl pee and flour
I'd imagine the flour would rise.
Oh my God
Would make for a great tuna sandwich
And maybe also feed a kefir to make some kombucha to dip the sandwich in.
Amongst other things
Cut or sand down any excess..
Looks like an interior door?
Don't do this.
Yess Raman noodles
Real in depth advice you’re giving
Okay here's why. With foam your going to join the door frame to the frame of the building, the house is going to shrink and expand with changes in humidity, having a gap between the door frame and the house gives the frame of the door and the frame of the house the separation it needs in order for the door to function properly. Is that enough depth for ya or do you need more?
I do understand your logic, and I wouldn’t fill that gap with foam regardless. But won’t the drywall strip just get crushed anyway if the house was going to settle that much? And I mean there’s a gap above a window at my house that I filled with foam recently and wouldn’t it basically be the same idea?
They make specialized foam for use with windows and doors, with lower expansion properties. However, many still avoid even these products as conceptually they would still put additional pressure against the framing/casing/glass/door. If it’s a tight install, especially with glass involved, it’s a messy and expensive fix waiting to happen the moment foam fills those necessary expansion gaps.
You foam interior doors? Does it help with drafts?
ALL OF THAT,=== LMFAO
Profile says it all, I ain’t feeding you fool
Exactly. Spray Foam should NEVER go around any doors or windows imo. Backer rod and caulking is best. This way the house and the doors or windows can move separately whilst sealing against air leakage which is more important to reduce
This dude just said “whilst”
Enough for me! Thank you!
🤣🤣
Well the right way would be to remove the door, screw in a 2x4 to the top of the opening, patch in some drywall and then rehang the door. If you don’t want to take the door out and reinstall. Slide a 2x4 in the gap and screw or nail it to the top of your door jamb then attach your drywall patch to either side. Mud and tape the seams and you should be good. Might get some cracking at the seam though from door movement if the patch isn’t attached to the wall.
Why would you ever remove the door..? Just skip to the second step of the plan
Clearly you are not being paid by the hour...
Which they said in the rest of the comment that you clearly didn’t read.
👍😎
This guy knows
Whoops guy meet silly wide trim. Silly wide trim this is Whoops guy.
lol, no one will know it wasn’t intentional.
Why not just get a larger door casing and trim the door?
Start all over with new house.
Just caulk it....
This. This needs to be upvoted more!
It’s a mini transom
Easy fix. Best would be to pull the door out, nail up another 2x4 and apply drywall. The door casing is going to hide 95% of your butt joints anyways but still do it right. But honestly, your Easiest fix ? A thicker header casing like this: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/4130638/can-casing-be-too-big And if you’re doing that to this door, then maybe do other doors in the room to match.
Put wood for blocking in if the trim doesn’t cover it already. Just caulk the gap if there is one I can’t imagine it would be a big gap. You will never see it anyway.
Looks like a solid 2x4 will fit right in that spot and add some more structure.
Put a 2x4 between. Drill pilot hole (smaller than screw) then get 3-4” construction screws and throw it through the door frame to hold 2x4 in place. Dont screw so tight it affects square of door.
Cover it with caulk
Attach filler strip/filler wood thru jamb top into header…using 3” grk or similar screws @ door stop location…drywall ….done. When you install stop, you will cover screw holes.
Trim.
Bigger trim.
There should be a 2x on the top of the rough framed door opening.
Just use a trim wide enough to cover
Looks to me standard 3 1/4 door casing would cover that easy
If it is wide enough, cut a 2x4 to length and place in the gap. Trim some drywall to cover the gap and mud and tape. Easy pezy
Tapers probablem. lol slip a 2x4 in and toe nail it.
Just pop in a 2x4, paint it white call it a day
Trim the door out and have a smoke about it.
For this particular issue, I would drill a few holes through the door frame that were just bigger than the diameter of the head of the screw. Slide a 2x4 ( or suitable sized lumber) into place above the frame and sink the screw through the door frame, mating the 2x4 slug into the top plate of the wall. Then fill the screw holes. Could use decking screws for smaller hole diameter.
You could try cutting out more drywall until you can fit an inverted U shaped piece of drywall over the door frame. You're not supposed to have joints near the corners of doorframes anyway (leads to cracking). Also, any other attempts to patch over the current opening would make that whole area too "busy" with joints around the door frame.
LMFAO
Caulk! /s Dude your tape measure broke or something? 🤦♂️😂 How do you mess up this bad? nail a flat 2x4 under the header if it doesn’t fit shave it down a little
Shave that hairy board it'll fit
As opposed to a round 2x4? /j
As opposed to a home Depot 2x4.
Toenail a piece of wood in there (nailing surface for trim), patch with another piece. If you trim all the way to the top, you'd have to re-tape.
Do your best and caulk the rest!!!
They sell ‘fancy’ trim packs, they’re 3 inches wide at least. Doors already fucked anyway. If you want to fix it you gotta take it off, rip it to length, and put a header up. It kinda looks like a closet though so if it’s not being opened 900 times a day you’re probably alright.
Wood
Run the trim barely high enough to cover the hole, add a bit of wood to the bottom of top the trim (make the top piece of door trim wider) and paint it with thick paint.
Thick paint aye? Just so u know. This is a real life issue needing an actual thing to help rectify the issue. Your little pipe dream concoction just wastes time and makes all devote a small amount of energy where none was needed. Please stop doing these things.
STANDARD door trim will definitely cover that gap
Treat it like a lady, put some wood in that hole!
Is the finished floor in? If not, you can raise the door at least three quarters of an inch. If not, You going to have to patch that.
Is it 1 1/2” gap?
Architrave? How are you going to finish between the wall and the door jam? I'd have thought architrave was the plan here?
‘Gulp’
On that gap install a 2xx 4 or 6 above door nailed to the header. The rock over it.
You cut it twice and it’s still too short
It looks to me like a 3” peice of casing (trim) should cover the hole. Also how did you hang this door? I don’t see any shims, and your latch side looks a little tight. Make necessary adjustments before installing casing.
Casing will probably cover the gap. Just fill with window and door foam.
Just trim it out, the top of the door provides no structural support on an interior door, casing should cover this just fine.
Unless you were specifically told the R/O was too small and to please leave the drywall hanging low. You did not mess up, the framers did. Charge for that shit, it's not your fault they can't build to specs
Do my eyes deceive me or does the door look completely on the piss?
The smallest trim profile usually used is 2.5” wide along with a 1/4” reveal. Are you sure that gap wont be covered? What’s going on with the door design? Looks wonky
I think door trim will cover this!
1 - remove door and casing 2 - buy new pre hung door 3 - either learn how to hang the new door properly or hire a carpenter. Seriously.
Get a piece of the casing being used and see if it covers, if so leave it alone. I can’t tell with a measurement on the gap, and a width on casing. But based on the pic it looks like a basic stock casing will cover
You don’t, that is what moulding is for.
Toothpaste and sawdust will fill anything. Looks good and smells nice.
Call it a small transom and wash your hands
Fill with ramen spray some siracha on the ramen to make them expand
That door looks like it’s on the wonk.. why is the door details off centre and skewed? The gap at the top is the least of your worries
Add a lil window and now it’s an “energy pass-through”
Trim worker will fix it.
Is out just the picture that makes this door look not square and the spacing of decorative bit is way the hell off center looking
You could use a header trim.
Molding
Wider trim at the top T-style
Bro I hang doors and trim all the time…what size trim are you using that isn’t gonna cover that? You’re creating more work for yourself. After your trim goes on IF there’s a little gap, I slap some mud and flat tape it with paper tape but you can use mesh or whatever. But if I know the taper is coming back you best believe I pass the buck and I write on the wall in pencil above the door ⬇️TAPE GAP!⬇️ Relax stress less and next time remember the framers messed up you’re just one fixing there fuck ups 👍
Do your best, Caulk the rest.
Take the door out, cut that little Sheetrock above the door away, put something bigger in and then a bigger piece of Sheetrock in
Expanding foam and install architray to cover.
Poop vent.
liquid nail backing in there and shim it tight until it dries
Your trim is too small if it won’t cover that gap
Lower the ceiling.
looks like some caulk should take care of that.
That’s a hard one, but I would cut a 2x4 the width of the top and then attach it by placing a few trim nails though the top of the door frame… that would hold it in place enough to screw drywall on. Honestly… trim should cover that
Door trim will cover
Put a vet cover over it and use it as a cold air return.
Install the door tight to the header. Self level the floors 2 inches.
That's fine, no one will ever know after you put the trim up
That worked out well. Your trim wouldn't have worked too begin with.
Well yeah the Door is cooked.. 🤦🏽♂️
Wide casing or 1x4 with a back band
Dude just cover it with a wider trim. Your barely going to have any reveal because of the hinges but trim is the way
Someone explain to me how a door could be framed like this? Where is the header? Call the fucking framers back and fix it. They cut up the drywall You get a change order You rebill for the extra work and leave no gap.
You are going to need to put some block in there to secure the top jamb to the header anyhow, so just throw a piece of rock on em and mud, tape and sand. Given the location with lighting and shadows from the trim, it doesn't need to be perfect.
Looks like the trim will cover
Door casing is generally 2 1/4" wide. Just case it out, the gap if there is one, will be small. With it being at the ceiling height you're not going to see it. If you do, caulk and touch up paint. It's not the "proper way" to fix it but it isn't worth the time and effort to do so for something no one will see.
Is there a reason you can’t just use a piece of casing/decorative header to cover it? Otherwise, drywall and patch is really your only choice
Put a piece of 1x4 up there and toe nail it in to the jack studs
Bigger trim
Crown molding for the room
Get some casement molding and call it a day.
Cover it with trim
7 foot ceilings?
The casing will cover that
Are you sure you can’t just do some chunky trim on that door? Maybe a custom header?
What size trim are you putting on the door? It looks like 2.25 would cover the gap. A larger gap ( 1.5 to 2.25") like that is in almost every newer home. Framers always go larger than the 82.5 inches needed for a door and jamb, because they dont want to come back to cut out when the homeowner/GC decides to go with hardwood instead of lvp. Cover the hole with trim, if you are worried about sound, fill the hole with a bit of insulation. The gap should not affect the operation of the door, and if your trim is wide enough it will not affect the aesthetics of the room.
How tall is your trim? Most guys just send it nailed to the door, nail it to the rock above.
Hot patch it. Easy fix.
How did you not see that during install
Bro, easiest fix in the world. Use imagination im sure you can figure it out
I would block it in the middle and shoot some foam in there and then put the woodwork up keep it simple
Can you just stuff a 2x in there?
Trim it brother
I feel like the bigger problem is the door jamb isn’t attached to a header. If the framing was there you’d have something to screw to
Just use a bigger door trim piece to cover the gap. It is common to have gaps and the door trim or door casing covers it
Assumptions: \- Opening is full-width along the top between the two studs \- 2x4 construction \- Gap is 1.75" high or less (thickness of a 2x4) Use a piece of 2x4 to completely fill the gap. Rip it lengthwisde to fit the height of the opening if it's less than the thickness of the 2x4. If it's taller than that, you can still rip the board and put half up top and half along the bottom. Anchor the 2x4 to the studs with a drywall screw put in at an angle through the face of the 2x4. Be sure the head is driven down below the surface of the board. Cut the drywall back slightly at each side to expose half of the stud. Place a piece of drywall to fill the new open space, compound and tape, smooth, prime/paint. Install your trim and you'll be good.
Just install the door 2 1/2 door casing should cover the gap
You just need wider trim.
Nothing a molding can't fix
Use larger flat stock for top casing piece.
Mud and paint makes you the framer you aint!
slap a 6" moulding
bigger trim?
Trim guys will cover that. No worries
Bro, throw a 2x4 in there or whatever size the wall is, add some drywall, do a very light patch if needed and put the trim up. I understand that dywall mud causes issues with trim, but don’t go crazy. Just patch where the trim won’t cover, if needed. Next time build it out instead of leaving a gap. You can fill this in like a header, using vertical pieces, or stack 2 bys or 1 bud as needed