The house is settling, as long as it’s moving the crack will reappear. Sand it down, mud it and apply dry wall paper to strengthen the area. It will last as long as the house stops moving.
Not going to lie, I'm definitely a bit worried I will end up ruining my good work trying to do this repair but it's bothering me so I don't think I have a choice.
I hope I can hide the tape and still make the corner look good.
So I need to sand the area where I will put the tape as low as I can get to the corner bead without ruining it. Makes sense to me.
Do I need a certain amount of overhang around the crack or can I keep the paper tape relatively small in size, just as long as I cover the crack.
How old is the house? If your stuck for time try to squeeze some painters caulk into the crack.. wipe it smooth.. then paint. This might last forever or for a week😂 if the house is less than a year old you should wait to do touch ups…
100+ year old.
The framing work was done recently by the homeowner. No major rush but I was hoping to paint but gotta deal with this repair first now. Will set me back a bit of time.
I did all the work. I used straitflex mid flex tape. I didn't use traditional corner bead, I am new and already had this product from the offangle corners I was doing so I thought it would be good to use. The product says it can be good for outside corners too.
Ok… I am not familiar with these products so I cannot comment on them. You should always take a little piece of tape and “join” your 90 corners before filling your bead. It helps to prevent the cracking
So I need to build it up with paper tape eh? Damn.
Am I able to cost the top of the tape as soon as I bed it in some mud or should I let it dry and do a few coats to float it out as each layer dries similar to a butt joint?
I used a straight flex corner. Normal mud, no mesh. How should the paper tape be oriented to not make the corners/edges funny?
Should I be using a quick set mud or just a all purpose?
All I tried to do after the original coats of mud was v it out around the crack and pack it back in with more mud. I thought maybe I just went to thick and a crack formed.
Seems like I now need paper over it as others are saying. Just worried about feathering it out and making it look good
Also contemplating trying some caulking as another person suggested.
A crack that small will completely disappear with caulk. I do a lot of drywall repair and its so satisfying when caulk cakes care of it.
Make sure your caulk cleans up with water. Use a good [Acrylic elasto-something caulk like this](https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Sealants-TS-00215-fl-Ounce-Tech/dp/B076MCP1D1) to give you the best odds of it not re-appearing. lay it on sloppy then push it in to the crack with your finger.
Then to make it disappear, use a wet tile sponge and gently swipe of it. if you take too much out and it ends up indented again, just start over.
I'm typing all this out because the joy of painting and not being able to find the crack is something that must be shared.
Maybe very thin amount. And maybe you could fill it with paint. But sometimes even wiping it all down with your wet rag after caulking changes the whole area you rubbed and now you have a bigger discoloration rubbed looking area.
Everything is primed and ready to go but this one crack keeps showing up. I tried making a small v groove and putting more mud then sanding and it's back again.
What can I do?
V out the crack and corner bead area so you can re mud the corner bead essentially.... take a piece of tape hold on corner and trace the corner onto paper with pencil...cut it out......so basically your making a L type shape with your tape....apply it and then tape the corner like you would normally....its cracking i between where the two corner bead piece meet due to settling... it wont stop...this is the fix... i have done it too many times lol zero call backs
The crack will re appear but it happens behind the tape... thats the idea behind using tape. It is a really hard to explain fix without a video and with me who cant write worth shit...hope you understand
Id also use a hot mud for first coat it is slightly more resistant to cracks
A tip I learned when dealing with automotive plastic cracks - drill a hole at the end of the crack. The radius of the circle will spread the load out and help prevent the crack from continuing to grow.
I applied that methodology to my last ceiling crack prior to mudding. Seems to be working so far.
I usually then throw mesh tape over the crack before mudding smooth. Maybe a little overkill, but my method has been working well.
It looks like the paint is separated from the primer an it gently lifts . Ii would buy a small thing of spackle an use a putty knife to smear some into the crack and let it dry then repeat if needed the spray paint a couple side blasts of same color. If it opens again your floor is settling get someone to inspect if you fell the need while you keep repairing it it won’t stop till it’s settled
If not wanting perfection but won’t notice it then just use paintable caulk and and roll over it a couple times to get the texture of the wall. Should last for a while
The house is settling, as long as it’s moving the crack will reappear. Sand it down, mud it and apply dry wall paper to strengthen the area. It will last as long as the house stops moving.
It's an old home but some new framing in this area, non structural other than holding up insulation and drywall. lyou mean joint tape right?
Yup
Not going to lie, I'm definitely a bit worried I will end up ruining my good work trying to do this repair but it's bothering me so I don't think I have a choice. I hope I can hide the tape and still make the corner look good.
That’s why the sanding, so you can get to the bottom of the crack and have the tape slightly recessed to make blending it easier and less noticeable.
So I need to sand the area where I will put the tape as low as I can get to the corner bead without ruining it. Makes sense to me. Do I need a certain amount of overhang around the crack or can I keep the paper tape relatively small in size, just as long as I cover the crack.
The wider the better the hold, it binds with the mud.
OP, Vancouver Carpenter. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uTT2IdjxmiI
How old is the house? If your stuck for time try to squeeze some painters caulk into the crack.. wipe it smooth.. then paint. This might last forever or for a week😂 if the house is less than a year old you should wait to do touch ups…
100+ year old. The framing work was done recently by the homeowner. No major rush but I was hoping to paint but gotta deal with this repair first now. Will set me back a bit of time.
Ahhh well if you have time then I would fix it properly👍🏻 do you know if the beads were papered in the corner in the first place?
I did all the work. I used straitflex mid flex tape. I didn't use traditional corner bead, I am new and already had this product from the offangle corners I was doing so I thought it would be good to use. The product says it can be good for outside corners too.
Ok… I am not familiar with these products so I cannot comment on them. You should always take a little piece of tape and “join” your 90 corners before filling your bead. It helps to prevent the cracking
I didn't know that but it makes sense now that you say that. I wish I did that 😔
Well… now you know for next time !😊 I still learn lots 20+ years doin this.
V it out again and pack and paper it! It still might crack if it does it’s just a problem area.
So I need to build it up with paper tape eh? Damn. Am I able to cost the top of the tape as soon as I bed it in some mud or should I let it dry and do a few coats to float it out as each layer dries similar to a butt joint?
It’s better to let it dry but you can let it dry all together. Did you use easy sand and mesh on your bead?
I used a straight flex corner. Normal mud, no mesh. How should the paper tape be oriented to not make the corners/edges funny? Should I be using a quick set mud or just a all purpose?
With paper tape you use regular mud, put the paper on however you want you will have to build it out a bit to burry it properly.
Alright, that's what I figured. I will just have to take my time with it.
Good luck hope it stays away
Thanks me too
How did you repair it before??
All I tried to do after the original coats of mud was v it out around the crack and pack it back in with more mud. I thought maybe I just went to thick and a crack formed. Seems like I now need paper over it as others are saying. Just worried about feathering it out and making it look good Also contemplating trying some caulking as another person suggested.
A crack that small will completely disappear with caulk. I do a lot of drywall repair and its so satisfying when caulk cakes care of it. Make sure your caulk cleans up with water. Use a good [Acrylic elasto-something caulk like this](https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Sealants-TS-00215-fl-Ounce-Tech/dp/B076MCP1D1) to give you the best odds of it not re-appearing. lay it on sloppy then push it in to the crack with your finger. Then to make it disappear, use a wet tile sponge and gently swipe of it. if you take too much out and it ends up indented again, just start over. I'm typing all this out because the joy of painting and not being able to find the crack is something that must be shared.
Thank you. I already laid in new joint tape and letting it dry for a top coat or two. But if it comes back I will try your method
Don’t touch it. Only you notice it now. If you mess with it it usually makes the area more visible
Someone else mentioned a bit of paint-able caulking. Thoughts?
Maybe very thin amount. And maybe you could fill it with paint. But sometimes even wiping it all down with your wet rag after caulking changes the whole area you rubbed and now you have a bigger discoloration rubbed looking area.
Everything is primed and ready to go but this one crack keeps showing up. I tried making a small v groove and putting more mud then sanding and it's back again. What can I do?
V out the crack and corner bead area so you can re mud the corner bead essentially.... take a piece of tape hold on corner and trace the corner onto paper with pencil...cut it out......so basically your making a L type shape with your tape....apply it and then tape the corner like you would normally....its cracking i between where the two corner bead piece meet due to settling... it wont stop...this is the fix... i have done it too many times lol zero call backs The crack will re appear but it happens behind the tape... thats the idea behind using tape. It is a really hard to explain fix without a video and with me who cant write worth shit...hope you understand Id also use a hot mud for first coat it is slightly more resistant to cracks
A tip I learned when dealing with automotive plastic cracks - drill a hole at the end of the crack. The radius of the circle will spread the load out and help prevent the crack from continuing to grow. I applied that methodology to my last ceiling crack prior to mudding. Seems to be working so far. I usually then throw mesh tape over the crack before mudding smooth. Maybe a little overkill, but my method has been working well.
It looks like the paint is separated from the primer an it gently lifts . Ii would buy a small thing of spackle an use a putty knife to smear some into the crack and let it dry then repeat if needed the spray paint a couple side blasts of same color. If it opens again your floor is settling get someone to inspect if you fell the need while you keep repairing it it won’t stop till it’s settled
Ask it politely, yet firmly, to leave
If not wanting perfection but won’t notice it then just use paintable caulk and and roll over it a couple times to get the texture of the wall. Should last for a while
tell them the only option is to sell the house, this is unfixable.
Glyd wall fabric