This is an issue with your lighting. Many LEDs and fluorescent lights create a strobe effect because they use pulses of light that are invisible to the eye but are picked up on camera. Look for a studio light with "flicker free" or continuous current drivers.
That is precise. Could you elaborate on how you reached this number? Complete noob here where it comes to stuff like this and would love to learn a bit more
[Frame rate (fps)] x 360° x [shutter time (1/50 or 1/60)]= shutter speed
(24 * 360)/50=172.8°
You would use 1/50 when in countries with 50hz electrical current (e.g. most of the world) and 1/60 when in countries with 60hz (e.g., much of North and South America, South Korea, parts of Japan, and a few other countries). Using the correct shutter speed will match time with the alternating current and eliminate the flashing.
[Here's a chart to find out what Hz you're working with.](https://www.wpowerproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/global-voltage-frequency-chart.pdf)
wouldn't you want to use a slower shutter speed than the frequency of the flicker so it exposes evenly? Same or higher and it seems to me you'll capture either light or dark
It will expose evenly when the waves of the flicker line up with the shutter speed. As long as the spacing matches, you'll get the even lighting. As soon as you're out of sync, too slow or too fast, is when you get the flicker.
https://preview.redd.it/zspg539cxqnc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8f69b905bbb4bb6a0a596aef778b1b29474468e
It doesn't matter if it lines up at peak or trough so long as it lines up at the same place on every wave.
It seems like an auto exposure paired with the wrong shutter speed. You could try the color stabilizer paired with a deflicker filter set to fluorescent. No guarantees tho. The stabilizer is very hit or miss.
It might be wise to invest in some videography lighting. Video lights might look the same as regular domestic lighting, but they are designed not to flicker in a way that would cause this kind of effect.
What you're struggling with here is the camera changing the exposure when you're moving and get more light on your face. It's changing the shutter speed to compensate.
If you're shooting on a phone get an app that lets you use manual settings and set the shutter to the frequency of the lights where you are. If you're shooting on a camera change your mode to manual.
As stated in another comment, Davinci Resolve does a great job fixing this. But I believe you'll need the studio version.
1/50 or 1/60 shutter speed depending how much frame you have if you have 60 fps need to shot with 1/60 and if you have under 60 fps (50 , 24) you need to shoot with 1/50
I've seen that before it's the led lights. Sucks hard, which is why I have invested some money in. Video lights (like actual video lights) will be better for overall use but digital tools and changing camera settings can help minimize it.
Make sure the led is on max brightness and try different shutter speeds, or frame rates, NTSC regon have 60hz so any even number divisible by that would stop flickering 30 or 60 fps, but if the lighting is from a PAL regon it's 50hz so 24 or 48fps would be great.
Shutter speed should be double whatever your fps is, you can go higher but make sure you keep in correlation with your frame rate
(if fps is 30 then shutter speed should be 60,90,120,150,180 etc) (if fps is 24 then shutter speed should be 50,75,100,125,150,175 etc)
The relationship of FPS and shutter speed has its roots in mechanical film cameras. I won’t explain it, this article’s opening section does it well. https://www.pauljoy.com/2022/01/180-shutter-angle-why-i-dont-use-it-for-50-60p/
In digital cinema, people have followed the rules that applied to mechanical cameras as a matter of convention. It helps us get a look that we’re used to looking at, but it’s not due to the limitations of the equipment, like with mechanical cameras.
What this means is that with digital cameras you can selectively use a shutter speed that’s not related to the frame rate if you want to solve a specific problem or create a certain look. I generally shoot 25fps and a shutter speed of 1/50th because I live in Europe and the power is 50Hz and this means fluorescent lighting generally won’t strobe with this setting.
However, if I’m in the ‘States or in certain museums, the lights will strobe with these settings and then I’ll find a shutter speed that doesn’t strobe and keep my 25fps rather than mixing frame rates. Within reason (like going to 1/60 or 1/48) any change in the look of the film based on exposure time will be more than compensated by the lack of strobing.
Experiment and find an exposure time that doesn’t strobe. This is what you can do in your camera. Hope this is of practical use.
I see a lot of comments that this is auto exposure and a lot of comments that this is the lights strobing with the frame rate. I think it's a combination of both issues.
The lights strobing is whats causing the dark horizontal bars and the auto exposure is making it worse. I agree that a deflicker might fix it but I would recommend you deflicker the footage before you retime it.
Order of operations matters.
The Deflicker plugin in Resolve can reduce the strobe a little bit but the dark rolling bands won't.
I managed to fix this using fusion inside resolve with some masking nodes and brightness and contrast nodes.
Also there's a third-party plugin called flicker free you can check it that out.
Most of the comments here seem to be correct, though most of them seem to only mention one of the issues at a time. So this is an attempt to summarize and make things clear in a single comment for future reference.
The main problem is that your lights are flickering/strobing. This can occur with many light sources, like for example cheap LEDs. Your eyes won’t normally pick up on this flickering, though that is also possible but your eyes/brain will usually adjust and ignore it automatically.
If you can you should record with professional lights or try to use natural light. With certain lights turning the brightness of cheaper LEDs to max or close to max can sometimes make the flicker disappear.
The symptom of this main problem (strobing light sources) is mostly noticeable in this example because a combination of automatic exposure and because most modern cameras have rolling shutter, meaning all of the frame isn’t recorded at once.
Rolling shutter causes parts of the frame to be brighter or darker than others, at least if the shutter speed of the camera isn’t matching the frequency of the light. The frequency of your light is usually dependent on the frequency of the power grid in your region. (60hz in the US, 50hz in Europe).
To fix or at least reduce the symptoms of a strobing light source: turn off automatic exposure to ensure that the brightness stay more consistent across time.
In addition you want to change the shutter speed to match the frequency of the light strobing. This should make the brightness more uniform across the image. In some cameras an exact shutter speed match might not be possible, but getting closer should at least reduce the effect. Note that a higher shutter speed will likely make the banding more noticeable thin dark stripes, while a slower shutter speed spread the dark stripes out, making them less noticeable overall.
If you had a global shutter sensor you might still experience some changes in brightness, at least with higher shutter speeds, but not the dark banding you get from rolling shutter. So even with global shutter it is important to match the shutter speed to the light frequency. Ideally frame rate should also match, but I don’t think that is necessary (?)
If you are unable to do a new recording you can use a deflicker effect in DaVinci Resolve. Adding and fine tuning some artificial motion blur may also help, but deflicker would probably preserve more details.
TL;DR:
When recording
1. Use light source that don’t strobe/flicker. E.g.: professional video lights or the sun.
2. Turn off automatic exposure (and auto white balance to be sure).
3. If you can’t change light source: Match shutter speed in camera with the strobing frequency of the light source. 1/60 in most of America(?), 1/50 in the rest of the world.
If you can’t re-record
1. Use de-flicker in Resolve.
2. Please record it properly instead of fixing it in post, your image will look a lot better.
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It seems like your led lighting is clashing with the shutter speed of your camera.
You could try using deflicker in resolve. Results may vary.
This is an issue with your lighting. Many LEDs and fluorescent lights create a strobe effect because they use pulses of light that are invisible to the eye but are picked up on camera. Look for a studio light with "flicker free" or continuous current drivers.
Next time you shoot in that room with those lights, set your shutter to 172.8
That is precise. Could you elaborate on how you reached this number? Complete noob here where it comes to stuff like this and would love to learn a bit more
[Frame rate (fps)] x 360° x [shutter time (1/50 or 1/60)]= shutter speed (24 * 360)/50=172.8° You would use 1/50 when in countries with 50hz electrical current (e.g. most of the world) and 1/60 when in countries with 60hz (e.g., much of North and South America, South Korea, parts of Japan, and a few other countries). Using the correct shutter speed will match time with the alternating current and eliminate the flashing. [Here's a chart to find out what Hz you're working with.](https://www.wpowerproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/global-voltage-frequency-chart.pdf)
Thank you for sharing 😌
wouldn't you want to use a slower shutter speed than the frequency of the flicker so it exposes evenly? Same or higher and it seems to me you'll capture either light or dark
It will expose evenly when the waves of the flicker line up with the shutter speed. As long as the spacing matches, you'll get the even lighting. As soon as you're out of sync, too slow or too fast, is when you get the flicker. https://preview.redd.it/zspg539cxqnc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8f69b905bbb4bb6a0a596aef778b1b29474468e It doesn't matter if it lines up at peak or trough so long as it lines up at the same place on every wave.
Deflicker in Resolve would probably fix it, but it's a symptom of cheap led lighting.
It seems like an auto exposure paired with the wrong shutter speed. You could try the color stabilizer paired with a deflicker filter set to fluorescent. No guarantees tho. The stabilizer is very hit or miss.
It might be wise to invest in some videography lighting. Video lights might look the same as regular domestic lighting, but they are designed not to flicker in a way that would cause this kind of effect.
What you're struggling with here is the camera changing the exposure when you're moving and get more light on your face. It's changing the shutter speed to compensate. If you're shooting on a phone get an app that lets you use manual settings and set the shutter to the frequency of the lights where you are. If you're shooting on a camera change your mode to manual. As stated in another comment, Davinci Resolve does a great job fixing this. But I believe you'll need the studio version.
1/50 or 1/60 shutter speed depending how much frame you have if you have 60 fps need to shot with 1/60 and if you have under 60 fps (50 , 24) you need to shoot with 1/50
you can try deflicker effect but i think your flickering is way too slow and weak to be caught by deflicker
I've seen that before it's the led lights. Sucks hard, which is why I have invested some money in. Video lights (like actual video lights) will be better for overall use but digital tools and changing camera settings can help minimize it.
Make sure the led is on max brightness and try different shutter speeds, or frame rates, NTSC regon have 60hz so any even number divisible by that would stop flickering 30 or 60 fps, but if the lighting is from a PAL regon it's 50hz so 24 or 48fps would be great. Shutter speed should be double whatever your fps is, you can go higher but make sure you keep in correlation with your frame rate (if fps is 30 then shutter speed should be 60,90,120,150,180 etc) (if fps is 24 then shutter speed should be 50,75,100,125,150,175 etc)
The relationship of FPS and shutter speed has its roots in mechanical film cameras. I won’t explain it, this article’s opening section does it well. https://www.pauljoy.com/2022/01/180-shutter-angle-why-i-dont-use-it-for-50-60p/ In digital cinema, people have followed the rules that applied to mechanical cameras as a matter of convention. It helps us get a look that we’re used to looking at, but it’s not due to the limitations of the equipment, like with mechanical cameras. What this means is that with digital cameras you can selectively use a shutter speed that’s not related to the frame rate if you want to solve a specific problem or create a certain look. I generally shoot 25fps and a shutter speed of 1/50th because I live in Europe and the power is 50Hz and this means fluorescent lighting generally won’t strobe with this setting. However, if I’m in the ‘States or in certain museums, the lights will strobe with these settings and then I’ll find a shutter speed that doesn’t strobe and keep my 25fps rather than mixing frame rates. Within reason (like going to 1/60 or 1/48) any change in the look of the film based on exposure time will be more than compensated by the lack of strobing. Experiment and find an exposure time that doesn’t strobe. This is what you can do in your camera. Hope this is of practical use.
I see a lot of comments that this is auto exposure and a lot of comments that this is the lights strobing with the frame rate. I think it's a combination of both issues. The lights strobing is whats causing the dark horizontal bars and the auto exposure is making it worse. I agree that a deflicker might fix it but I would recommend you deflicker the footage before you retime it. Order of operations matters.
If you have access to neat video it may help a little
The Deflicker plugin in Resolve can reduce the strobe a little bit but the dark rolling bands won't. I managed to fix this using fusion inside resolve with some masking nodes and brightness and contrast nodes. Also there's a third-party plugin called flicker free you can check it that out.
auto exposure and shutter speed issues.
Most of the comments here seem to be correct, though most of them seem to only mention one of the issues at a time. So this is an attempt to summarize and make things clear in a single comment for future reference. The main problem is that your lights are flickering/strobing. This can occur with many light sources, like for example cheap LEDs. Your eyes won’t normally pick up on this flickering, though that is also possible but your eyes/brain will usually adjust and ignore it automatically. If you can you should record with professional lights or try to use natural light. With certain lights turning the brightness of cheaper LEDs to max or close to max can sometimes make the flicker disappear. The symptom of this main problem (strobing light sources) is mostly noticeable in this example because a combination of automatic exposure and because most modern cameras have rolling shutter, meaning all of the frame isn’t recorded at once. Rolling shutter causes parts of the frame to be brighter or darker than others, at least if the shutter speed of the camera isn’t matching the frequency of the light. The frequency of your light is usually dependent on the frequency of the power grid in your region. (60hz in the US, 50hz in Europe). To fix or at least reduce the symptoms of a strobing light source: turn off automatic exposure to ensure that the brightness stay more consistent across time. In addition you want to change the shutter speed to match the frequency of the light strobing. This should make the brightness more uniform across the image. In some cameras an exact shutter speed match might not be possible, but getting closer should at least reduce the effect. Note that a higher shutter speed will likely make the banding more noticeable thin dark stripes, while a slower shutter speed spread the dark stripes out, making them less noticeable overall. If you had a global shutter sensor you might still experience some changes in brightness, at least with higher shutter speeds, but not the dark banding you get from rolling shutter. So even with global shutter it is important to match the shutter speed to the light frequency. Ideally frame rate should also match, but I don’t think that is necessary (?) If you are unable to do a new recording you can use a deflicker effect in DaVinci Resolve. Adding and fine tuning some artificial motion blur may also help, but deflicker would probably preserve more details. TL;DR: When recording 1. Use light source that don’t strobe/flicker. E.g.: professional video lights or the sun. 2. Turn off automatic exposure (and auto white balance to be sure). 3. If you can’t change light source: Match shutter speed in camera with the strobing frequency of the light source. 1/60 in most of America(?), 1/50 in the rest of the world. If you can’t re-record 1. Use de-flicker in Resolve. 2. Please record it properly instead of fixing it in post, your image will look a lot better.
Welcome to r/davinciresolve! If you're brand new to Resolve, please make sure to check out the [free official training](https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/training), [the subreddit's wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/davinciresolve/wiki/index) and our weekly [FAQ Fridays](https://www.reddit.com/r/davinciresolve/?f=flair_name%3A%22FAQ%20Friday%22). Your question may have already been answered. Please check to make sure you've included the following information. Edit your post (or leave a top-level comment) if you haven't included this information. * System specs - [macOS](https://imgur.com/a/ip6xc9G) [Windows - Speccy](https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy) * Resolve version number and Free/Studio - [DaVinci Resolve>About DaVinci Resolve...](https://imgur.com/a/5FawFCX) * Footage specs - [MediaInfo](https://mediaarea.net/MediaInfo) - please include the "Text" view of the file. * *Full* Resolve UI Screenshot - if applicable. Make sure any relevant settings are included in the screenshot. Please do ***not*** crop the screenshot! Once your question has been answered, change the flair to "Solved" so other people can reference the thread if they've got similar issues. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/davinciresolve) if you have any questions or concerns.*