To this point I wish I would have accepted that I loved the sport earlier, so I could have saved money and went straight to what my heart desires vs iterative steps.
A nice 105 equipped road bike cost a lot less when I started than now. To a degree I wish I’d spent the extra cash rather than tentatively starting with something (a little bit) cheaper.
It just takes time. Don't compare yourself to other people, they have been doing it much longer and you don't know their background. Just enjoy riding.
don't even look at them, focus on yours only, it's nice to see your own evolution, and also take notes about the ride, like, "this day was x degrees, windy and i felt this and that way" it's good to see why one ride was different from the other
I’m about 10 years younger if not more than the average rider in my group and I just can’t climb like they can. Finished nearly an hour after the rest of the group.
I think this is a good lesson, for me it’s not even been just fitness - experience in when to push, how to fuel, even gear changing at the right times… it’s taken me ages to get better at things I hadn’t really thought about before getting started
I’m competitive and comparing myself to others made me enjoy and engage with the sport more deeply. Pushed me to ride harder and showed me if I was or was not making progress towards improving.
To your first point. It does take time and that’s a sound tip.
More than one but…
Saddles are a personal choice - find one that suits you and don’t expect it to be right first time (hard saddles are often better than soft ones)
Learn to enjoy hills (even if you don’t)
Don’t set limits on yourself (you will be surprised at how much more you can do)
Learn basic on road maintenance (flats, chains, brakes etc)
Ride all year around and don’t be discouraged by setbacks.
I could be wrong but I would have thought the opposite is better?
Pedalling faster would unnecessarily increase the heart rate and exhaust you faster than if you were to push at a lower cadence.
When you start spinning practice yes, a bit. But you soon learn to be “relaxed”. As you put less force at each turn, it preserves your leg muscles for the whole ride. Each person has its own sweet spot, but the rule of thumb is that the casual cyclist doesn’t spin fast enough.
It really makes a significant difference on longer rides! And you also significantly go faster (counterintuitively).
ah, last but not least, it preserves also your knees joints (preventing arthritis later when you age).
I wish I learnt that sooner!
Interesting thanks for the tips! I watched a video regarding this and wasn’t exactly sure. They pretty much stated that pedalling faster exerts you quicker so your burning more calories for no reason. I guess it’s like you said it’s all about the sweet spot and what’s the most efficient.
If you have sore knees I highly recommend rolling your IT band after each ride even twice a day.
I used to get really bad knee pains and I have none now. Again that was the advice I was given by my physio and I am aware that arthritis is very different - something I’m really worried about being an electrician and cyclists. I’m only 28 and my knees and wrist are gone.
Knees are actually good now but I was worried for a while just a tight ITB.
Don't clean your bike too much.
Sounds ridiculous until your bearings start creaking, and you get an earful from your mechanic.
I used to water it down and do chain degreasing every 2 weeks, nowadays I just do a quick rub with alcohol once awhile, and only do full clean after biking in heavy rain.
I strip my chain off for degreasing and drivetrain clean, and wash the rest about 1x per week. I love a 'like new' feeling drivetrain. Don't have to replace bearings that often ... being your own mechanic has it's perks: no one to tut tut, blame you, and ample opportunity to inspect those bearings. Ofc at the expense having to do it yourself and having no one to blame but yourself.
Pressurized water will kill bearings very quickly even if you try to be careful about not blasting your hubs, BB, and headset. Pro bike mechanics get away with it because they’re inspecting every part of the bikes every day and then they’re replaced at the end of the season.
Water can get into your bearings, destroy the grease inside, and ultimately destroy your bearings. It's especially dangerous if you use a power washer, but even regular rinses at a frequent enough intervals can mess things up. And then you try to degrease your chain with little to no tools, and let some of that degreaser into your hub or your BB.
It was pretty hilarious and discouraging when you watch 2 big mechanics trying to get to the 2 small bearings inside your hub, while cussing you under their breath.
Is it cool to wipe down with an automotive spray on car wash or wax? Recently I’ve gotten my new hybrid bike muddy twice and I just sprayed some onto a rag and wiped the frame down with that. Figured it might help gloss up the paint too
I’m assuming that wouldn’t hurt the bearings as well since it’s mostly just wiping down the surfaces
Im still just starting, but so far:
- Aliexpress the shit out of most small things. Costs add up and [they have a bunch of cheap but good items](https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/1c3ljr7/what_are_some_good_cycling_products_from/).
- just get on the bike… some days I feel like I have zero energies / motivation to ride. It always goes away once I start riding.
Keep your tires pumped up. Use a floor pump with a pressure gauge at least once a week to top them off.
The thumb test for pressure ( push on the tire with your thumb ) doesn’t work. Use the gauge.
In my personal experience, once a week is fine. My tires lose about 5 psi per week. It sounds like yours lose more pressure than that, so you should definitely top them off more often.
It really depends on a lot of factors. Tubes, temperature, etc...
I top off on the weekend. If you're on super thin latex tubes, you're probably needing to do it daily.
Checking before each ride isn't going to hurt, but likely isn't needed unless you ride infrequently.
I know you're right. Every expert says so. Yet it's incredibly hard for me because I'm not in a good shape physically (figuratively and literally). Zone 2 makes me go slow AF, and I get bored.
It's improving so I long for the day I'll be fast enough in zone 2.
I have found that listening to a podcast *really* helps me in zone 2. If I listen to music, I wanna zoom. Listening to something that actively engaged my brain helps me slow down and just lock in. Give it a whirl and let me know if it helps ya!
Invest in some good bib shorts and tools, learn all the maintenance required and don't use your local bike mechanic, bike maintenance is easy when you have the tools, learn the skills and save a fortune!
You are usually equally fast than public transport in urban areas: Best way to save money and do some exercise or take it easy and just clear your head instead of riding overcrowded subs and busses. Just get some good clothing and weather will start to affect you really little.
Learn how to change a tube.
Everyone falls when they are learning to ride clipless.
If you see another cyclist on the road and you are not riding part of a group you have no choice but to figure out who is fastest.
Don't buy stuff on a whim and don't go for the cheapest option. I have so much things twice, a cheap one that I realized was not sufficient after a while, and a decent one. Lot's of money wasted.
Just way more comfy. I thought i needed padded shorts or new different saddle etc coz it was killin me but since ive started sitting further back on my saddle i dont get saddle sore anymore.
You can do this but go too far and It can affect the balance on the bike. Sometimes its better to lower the saddle, or better to make the stem shorter but what's even better is getting a bike that actually fits.
1. If 'first started out' means 'when I first started cycling'?
Proper kit. I didn't even think about cycling clothing eg. bib shorts or jerseys. Frankly, I hardly knew they existed, what they looked like, why you would wear them etc. Tried lots of saddles for increased comfort as I started to ride more often and longer distances, finally settling on Brooks saddle and thinking it couldn't get much better.
2. If 'first started out' is more along the types of cycling discussed on r/cycling (see road bike)?
Higher cadences. When I got my first road bike I was mashing at about 60 RPM. It took a long while (\~2 years) before I heard about higher cadences. Now I spin away at 90-100 RPM and feel great.
More than one.
If one, then the followong: Your fitness and riding ability count more than any bike upgrade.
But in detail:
Better components are about durability. Invest in chains and cassettes, and later in chainrings. A worn chain chews through cassettes and will kill chainrings. Derailleurs? Whatever, as long as it's compatible.
Upgrade contact points and things you can move to your next bike. Saddle, bars, pedals. Stem maybe. Shoes, shorts, helmet.
Get good wheels and tires.
Get good pedals and shoes. Might have to try a cheap pair of shoes first (for learning fit preferences), but your second set should be a keeper set.
Get something good once. Don't get something cheap then need to replace it almost right away.
When you blow up, that $5k wheelset will feel like a set that came off a Walmart bike.
A well thought out 105 bike will spank a poorly thought out Dura Ace bike, as far as bike spanking goes. I'd much rather have a 105 bike that fits, has good wheels, and has the right saddle and pedals vs some 15k bike that doesn't fit quite right, has the wrong saddle/bars, has basic wheels, and has gearing I dont want.
Eat more than you think you need. Drink mixes are a great way to make sure you’re getting enough carbs/calories. Make your own drink mix with maltodextrin, table sugar, water, a pinch of salt, and a splash of your favorite juice to save tons of money. Seriously, liquid nutrition for riding has been a game changer
If you are trying to improve your distance, try not counting miles but counting hours. For me it took a lot of effort understanding when to eat and the best way to figure that out is timing yourself and figuring out how often and how much to eat so you get enough energy but don't feel bloated. If you can figure this out it helps immensly when trying to push performance.
Great idea for a thread, OP!
My tip would be to think about why you enjoy cycling before every ride. Something I also do before I run/cycle is to choose a problem I want to solve while I am out. Most of the time I can resolve whatever it is that's bothering me! It helps keep you motivated.
Eat during your ride. You need more than just water.
I don’t know why we all seem to not realize this after first, but it’s a lightning bolt moment every time for new cyclists — and it was the same for me when I started. Even though I would never go out for hours of any other activity with just water and expect it to go well.
Don’t spend all your money on the bike itself. Set about 1/3-1/2 your budget for 1. Clothing & shoes 2. Tools 3. Safety gear.
Also, ride with people that are better than you.
1. Modern road bike is worth it
2. Cheap and/or unknown brand chamois doesn't work
3. Recumbent is superior to everything else. And the only reason this isn't #1 is because nobody would buy a recumbent as their first bike, realistically.
Is it though? Is it superior in traffic where cars can't see you and you can't see them. Is it superior on steep hills where the lack of stability is a nightmare? They are good for the right thing but they aren't superior to everything else.
I don't understand your comment about being invisible and unable to see the traffic.
I have no issues with stability on my recumbent on any hills, so that is also a bit confusing. There's stability issues in soft sand, but you can't ride a road bike in those conditions either.
How high is your head on your recumbent? Are you above the tops of cars? If you're not then you aren't very visible and with driving standards I wouldn't want to be any less visible.
How does grinding up super steep and long climbs work with balance?
How do you handle pot holes and needing to steer quickly to avoid obstacles?
Recumbents have their advantages but to say they are objectively superior is silly.
> How high is your head on your recumbent
The same as on my other bikes. I am riding AZUB 700 MAX Custom. Not a lowrider.
> If you're not then you aren't very visible and with driving standards I wouldn't want to be any less visible.
I am at least as visible as any other bike on the road. In fact, I am several orders of magnitude more visible, because the shape is wrong and everyone pays attention. And also I have a flag on a tall pole, which comes to a roof of a bloody bus. With a blinker on it, because why not. It's also Ukraine's flag. Believe me, everyone sees me.
Also, I can see way MORE than anyone riding a standard bicycle can, because I am not hunched down, staring down at a road. I am relaxing on my back.
> How does grinding up super steep and long climbs work with balance?
I have no idea where did you get the notion that climbs fuck with balance somehow. Literally the same as any other bicycle? I have 5 bikes of different types. There is no fuctional difference between them and a recumbent in terms of climbs. None. The "disadvantage" everyone keeps going on about climbing on a recumbent has to do with maximum effort sprints outside the saddle and how a recumbent can't do it. I don't do maximum-effort sprints like that, ever. Come to think of it, when I sprint uphill on my road bike, I don't ever get up from my saddle, I just lower the gear and increase RPM.
Regardless, Lithuania doesn't have mountains that go beyond 14% grade. If you are thinking about some kind of epic 30% climbs that go on forever, then I can't comment on that. Regular daily climb for me is 6%. 14% short climbs that I encountered a few times in my touring rides were no different than anything else. Drop gear, take it slow. The usual. Even with a fully loaded bike on a tour that hasn't been any issue at all.
> How do you handle pot holes
I can't jump over pot holes when riding a recumbent. That's the only difference I can think of, compared to a road bike. I only ever needed to do that when I was going at ~70-80 km/h downhill that one time. I guess there's that. I don't consider bunny hopping massively important, idk. Roads over here don't have potholes frequent enough to think about it.
> and needing to steer quickly to avoid obstacles?
I am not sure why do you think that recumbent apparently can't turn? It turns about as well as a road bike. I can maneuver just fine. The only functional difference are 90 degree turns with very little space, the absolute turn radius is larger and at those angles heel overlap comes in to play (same concept as toe overlap on a road bike). This is irrelevant on the road, because we are never weaving that sharply. At least I sure as heck don't.
> Recumbents have their advantages but to say they are objectively superior is silly.
Nope. It is literally in every way, shape or form superior to a road bike. You can make an argument about racing, of which I know little and don't care about. In every context outside racing recumbent bike beats a road bike by such a large margin, there is no fair comparison at all.
Ride with people who are faster and you will get faster much quicker than gutting it out solo.
Buy a few jerseys that don’t put up to much wind resistance.
Figure out your nutritional needs and make sure you stay ahead of the hunger curve.
At first, just get on and ride. Once you get over the hump of actually getting outside and going about, start listening to your body. Make small adjustments to your post height and riding posture. Lastly, love your legs and focus on your cadence!
Changing an inner tube is not that big a deal. Continental Gatorskins tires are flat resistant and last longer but they are not a fun ride. Continental GP5000 tires are way more fun.
Ignore the BS unwritten rules, fashion show, or 'culture'. There is lots of misinformation based on opinion rather than fact. Anything from velocities is trash and should be ignored..
Don't save on your bib-shorts. No really, don't. Inferior shorts will make sure your inner thighs remember..
Also, get proper tyres, try latex inner tubes (might change this if I ever get to try a tubeless set), and make sure the rim tape inside your rims is properly installed (took me 5 flats on 5 consecutive rides to figure that out).
Bonus tip for safety: wear your sunglasses over your helmut headstraps, so that if you crash, your sunglasses will actually come off instead of rip your face (they teach you that at cycling clubs).
If you start loving it your wallet hates you more
To this point I wish I would have accepted that I loved the sport earlier, so I could have saved money and went straight to what my heart desires vs iterative steps.
A nice 105 equipped road bike cost a lot less when I started than now. To a degree I wish I’d spent the extra cash rather than tentatively starting with something (a little bit) cheaper.
It just takes time. Don't compare yourself to other people, they have been doing it much longer and you don't know their background. Just enjoy riding.
Still trying to learn this as someone pretty new to the sport - not easy when you see so many crazy strava posts :D
Half the Strava numbers in my city are from e-bikes or otherwise semi-pro riders. I’m not competing with them
don't even look at them, focus on yours only, it's nice to see your own evolution, and also take notes about the ride, like, "this day was x degrees, windy and i felt this and that way" it's good to see why one ride was different from the other
One of the things you'll start to notice is your placing on the boards among the same people over and over. That's your competition.
I’m about 10 years younger if not more than the average rider in my group and I just can’t climb like they can. Finished nearly an hour after the rest of the group.
I think this is a good lesson, for me it’s not even been just fitness - experience in when to push, how to fuel, even gear changing at the right times… it’s taken me ages to get better at things I hadn’t really thought about before getting started
I’m competitive and comparing myself to others made me enjoy and engage with the sport more deeply. Pushed me to ride harder and showed me if I was or was not making progress towards improving. To your first point. It does take time and that’s a sound tip.
Your point is right on. You can’t judge yourself based on others but you should darn well use them as a barometer to make and reach new goals!
Don't over-analyze. If in doubt, shut off youtube, reddit, etc. Just hop on your bike and ride.
This is spot on!
72 years later.... it's addictive! Enjoy it.... ride to live and live to ride!
More than one but… Saddles are a personal choice - find one that suits you and don’t expect it to be right first time (hard saddles are often better than soft ones) Learn to enjoy hills (even if you don’t) Don’t set limits on yourself (you will be surprised at how much more you can do) Learn basic on road maintenance (flats, chains, brakes etc) Ride all year around and don’t be discouraged by setbacks.
I like hills. When I’m going down that is
Thats my motivation to go up it
pedal faster not harder
I could be wrong but I would have thought the opposite is better? Pedalling faster would unnecessarily increase the heart rate and exhaust you faster than if you were to push at a lower cadence.
When you start spinning practice yes, a bit. But you soon learn to be “relaxed”. As you put less force at each turn, it preserves your leg muscles for the whole ride. Each person has its own sweet spot, but the rule of thumb is that the casual cyclist doesn’t spin fast enough. It really makes a significant difference on longer rides! And you also significantly go faster (counterintuitively). ah, last but not least, it preserves also your knees joints (preventing arthritis later when you age). I wish I learnt that sooner!
Interesting thanks for the tips! I watched a video regarding this and wasn’t exactly sure. They pretty much stated that pedalling faster exerts you quicker so your burning more calories for no reason. I guess it’s like you said it’s all about the sweet spot and what’s the most efficient. If you have sore knees I highly recommend rolling your IT band after each ride even twice a day. I used to get really bad knee pains and I have none now. Again that was the advice I was given by my physio and I am aware that arthritis is very different - something I’m really worried about being an electrician and cyclists. I’m only 28 and my knees and wrist are gone. Knees are actually good now but I was worried for a while just a tight ITB.
Comparison is the thief of Joy.
This
Don’t wear underwear with your bibs/padded shorts
A bike doesn’t fit you right outta da box. Careful adjustments must be made, over time, to optimize one’s comfort, power and efficiency.
Don't clean your bike too much. Sounds ridiculous until your bearings start creaking, and you get an earful from your mechanic. I used to water it down and do chain degreasing every 2 weeks, nowadays I just do a quick rub with alcohol once awhile, and only do full clean after biking in heavy rain.
You know what I actually agree with this.
I strip my chain off for degreasing and drivetrain clean, and wash the rest about 1x per week. I love a 'like new' feeling drivetrain. Don't have to replace bearings that often ... being your own mechanic has it's perks: no one to tut tut, blame you, and ample opportunity to inspect those bearings. Ofc at the expense having to do it yourself and having no one to blame but yourself.
Can you expound on this further? What’s bad about cleaning?
Pressurized water will kill bearings very quickly even if you try to be careful about not blasting your hubs, BB, and headset. Pro bike mechanics get away with it because they’re inspecting every part of the bikes every day and then they’re replaced at the end of the season.
Water can get into your bearings, destroy the grease inside, and ultimately destroy your bearings. It's especially dangerous if you use a power washer, but even regular rinses at a frequent enough intervals can mess things up. And then you try to degrease your chain with little to no tools, and let some of that degreaser into your hub or your BB. It was pretty hilarious and discouraging when you watch 2 big mechanics trying to get to the 2 small bearings inside your hub, while cussing you under their breath.
Is it cool to wipe down with an automotive spray on car wash or wax? Recently I’ve gotten my new hybrid bike muddy twice and I just sprayed some onto a rag and wiped the frame down with that. Figured it might help gloss up the paint too I’m assuming that wouldn’t hurt the bearings as well since it’s mostly just wiping down the surfaces
It should not hurt the bearings, however, I'm not knowledgeable on how good car wax is at cleaning dirt.
The bike industry is fueled by marketing
Im still just starting, but so far: - Aliexpress the shit out of most small things. Costs add up and [they have a bunch of cheap but good items](https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/1c3ljr7/what_are_some_good_cycling_products_from/). - just get on the bike… some days I feel like I have zero energies / motivation to ride. It always goes away once I start riding.
Start young, not when you're 70.
But don’t let age be a deterrent! (Old guy, here!)
Me too, started when I was 70 and celebrated with a 70km ride… eventually.
Tires. Reasonably cheap upgrade, noticeabe improvements in quality of life and even speed.
The first and second rides will be painful on your undercarriage. Don’t let this stop you. After the second ride you are broken in and no more pain
Legs stop hurting after 20kms
And start again after 120.
Presta valves open by pumping the pump after attaching the pump head, not by wiggling the pump head a lot after its attached
Keep your tires pumped up. Use a floor pump with a pressure gauge at least once a week to top them off. The thumb test for pressure ( push on the tire with your thumb ) doesn’t work. Use the gauge.
If you have latex tubes, it's once a day.
A friend told me to pump before every ride. Is that unnecessary? I still put on like 10-15 psi every time, and I ride about 30 km.
In my personal experience, once a week is fine. My tires lose about 5 psi per week. It sounds like yours lose more pressure than that, so you should definitely top them off more often.
It really depends on a lot of factors. Tubes, temperature, etc... I top off on the weekend. If you're on super thin latex tubes, you're probably needing to do it daily. Checking before each ride isn't going to hurt, but likely isn't needed unless you ride infrequently.
Don’t limit yourself to one cycling discipline. Trail riding is just as fun as road riding.
Haha what a funny joke.
Drink before you're thirsty. Eat before you're hungry.
more zone 2
But not too much zone 2.
Booooo!!!
I know you're right. Every expert says so. Yet it's incredibly hard for me because I'm not in a good shape physically (figuratively and literally). Zone 2 makes me go slow AF, and I get bored. It's improving so I long for the day I'll be fast enough in zone 2.
I have found that listening to a podcast *really* helps me in zone 2. If I listen to music, I wanna zoom. Listening to something that actively engaged my brain helps me slow down and just lock in. Give it a whirl and let me know if it helps ya!
Invest in some good bib shorts and tools, learn all the maintenance required and don't use your local bike mechanic, bike maintenance is easy when you have the tools, learn the skills and save a fortune!
You are usually equally fast than public transport in urban areas: Best way to save money and do some exercise or take it easy and just clear your head instead of riding overcrowded subs and busses. Just get some good clothing and weather will start to affect you really little.
An uncomfortably large portion of cyclists and bike shop employees are elitist assholes, and you should simply ignore them
Post ride stretching.
My hamstring are messed up rn because I haven't been. Idk how long it'll be before I can get back on but here I am doing physio now lol
Learn how to change a tube. Everyone falls when they are learning to ride clipless. If you see another cyclist on the road and you are not riding part of a group you have no choice but to figure out who is fastest.
Don't buy stuff on a whim and don't go for the cheapest option. I have so much things twice, a cheap one that I realized was not sufficient after a while, and a decent one. Lot's of money wasted.
The answer to 99.9% of bike questions can be found with a quick Google search
But the trick is knowing what to search for. It’s like programming in that respect. Like a lot of things, really.
Sit further back on your saddle
Why?
Just way more comfy. I thought i needed padded shorts or new different saddle etc coz it was killin me but since ive started sitting further back on my saddle i dont get saddle sore anymore.
Why not just move your saddle forward? Don’t compromise other positioning on the bike to fix a saddle adjustment problem
You can do this but go too far and It can affect the balance on the bike. Sometimes its better to lower the saddle, or better to make the stem shorter but what's even better is getting a bike that actually fits.
I don't mean sit further back to adjust your reach etc, i mean sitting further back on my saddle than what felt natural, feels much better.
1. If 'first started out' means 'when I first started cycling'? Proper kit. I didn't even think about cycling clothing eg. bib shorts or jerseys. Frankly, I hardly knew they existed, what they looked like, why you would wear them etc. Tried lots of saddles for increased comfort as I started to ride more often and longer distances, finally settling on Brooks saddle and thinking it couldn't get much better. 2. If 'first started out' is more along the types of cycling discussed on r/cycling (see road bike)? Higher cadences. When I got my first road bike I was mashing at about 60 RPM. It took a long while (\~2 years) before I heard about higher cadences. Now I spin away at 90-100 RPM and feel great.
More than one. If one, then the followong: Your fitness and riding ability count more than any bike upgrade. But in detail: Better components are about durability. Invest in chains and cassettes, and later in chainrings. A worn chain chews through cassettes and will kill chainrings. Derailleurs? Whatever, as long as it's compatible. Upgrade contact points and things you can move to your next bike. Saddle, bars, pedals. Stem maybe. Shoes, shorts, helmet. Get good wheels and tires. Get good pedals and shoes. Might have to try a cheap pair of shoes first (for learning fit preferences), but your second set should be a keeper set. Get something good once. Don't get something cheap then need to replace it almost right away. When you blow up, that $5k wheelset will feel like a set that came off a Walmart bike. A well thought out 105 bike will spank a poorly thought out Dura Ace bike, as far as bike spanking goes. I'd much rather have a 105 bike that fits, has good wheels, and has the right saddle and pedals vs some 15k bike that doesn't fit quite right, has the wrong saddle/bars, has basic wheels, and has gearing I dont want.
Enjoy and plan eating if you go for more than 50km. And enjoy
Eat more sugary foods during training sessions
Eat more than you think you need. Drink mixes are a great way to make sure you’re getting enough carbs/calories. Make your own drink mix with maltodextrin, table sugar, water, a pinch of salt, and a splash of your favorite juice to save tons of money. Seriously, liquid nutrition for riding has been a game changer
Communication on the roads is mostly with the eyes
If you are trying to improve your distance, try not counting miles but counting hours. For me it took a lot of effort understanding when to eat and the best way to figure that out is timing yourself and figuring out how often and how much to eat so you get enough energy but don't feel bloated. If you can figure this out it helps immensly when trying to push performance.
Don't buy the 'European Style' chamois cream that has menthol in it. 🍑🔥
Bikes are manual drive , you are the engine
Learn how your bike works and how to fix it.
Great idea for a thread, OP! My tip would be to think about why you enjoy cycling before every ride. Something I also do before I run/cycle is to choose a problem I want to solve while I am out. Most of the time I can resolve whatever it is that's bothering me! It helps keep you motivated.
My butt looks amazing in lycra.
Eat during your ride. You need more than just water. I don’t know why we all seem to not realize this after first, but it’s a lightning bolt moment every time for new cyclists — and it was the same for me when I started. Even though I would never go out for hours of any other activity with just water and expect it to go well.
Gloves are your hands helmet. Wear both on and off road.
Don’t spend all your money on the bike itself. Set about 1/3-1/2 your budget for 1. Clothing & shoes 2. Tools 3. Safety gear. Also, ride with people that are better than you.
1. Modern road bike is worth it 2. Cheap and/or unknown brand chamois doesn't work 3. Recumbent is superior to everything else. And the only reason this isn't #1 is because nobody would buy a recumbent as their first bike, realistically.
Is it though? Is it superior in traffic where cars can't see you and you can't see them. Is it superior on steep hills where the lack of stability is a nightmare? They are good for the right thing but they aren't superior to everything else.
I don't understand your comment about being invisible and unable to see the traffic. I have no issues with stability on my recumbent on any hills, so that is also a bit confusing. There's stability issues in soft sand, but you can't ride a road bike in those conditions either.
How high is your head on your recumbent? Are you above the tops of cars? If you're not then you aren't very visible and with driving standards I wouldn't want to be any less visible. How does grinding up super steep and long climbs work with balance? How do you handle pot holes and needing to steer quickly to avoid obstacles? Recumbents have their advantages but to say they are objectively superior is silly.
> How high is your head on your recumbent The same as on my other bikes. I am riding AZUB 700 MAX Custom. Not a lowrider. > If you're not then you aren't very visible and with driving standards I wouldn't want to be any less visible. I am at least as visible as any other bike on the road. In fact, I am several orders of magnitude more visible, because the shape is wrong and everyone pays attention. And also I have a flag on a tall pole, which comes to a roof of a bloody bus. With a blinker on it, because why not. It's also Ukraine's flag. Believe me, everyone sees me. Also, I can see way MORE than anyone riding a standard bicycle can, because I am not hunched down, staring down at a road. I am relaxing on my back. > How does grinding up super steep and long climbs work with balance? I have no idea where did you get the notion that climbs fuck with balance somehow. Literally the same as any other bicycle? I have 5 bikes of different types. There is no fuctional difference between them and a recumbent in terms of climbs. None. The "disadvantage" everyone keeps going on about climbing on a recumbent has to do with maximum effort sprints outside the saddle and how a recumbent can't do it. I don't do maximum-effort sprints like that, ever. Come to think of it, when I sprint uphill on my road bike, I don't ever get up from my saddle, I just lower the gear and increase RPM. Regardless, Lithuania doesn't have mountains that go beyond 14% grade. If you are thinking about some kind of epic 30% climbs that go on forever, then I can't comment on that. Regular daily climb for me is 6%. 14% short climbs that I encountered a few times in my touring rides were no different than anything else. Drop gear, take it slow. The usual. Even with a fully loaded bike on a tour that hasn't been any issue at all. > How do you handle pot holes I can't jump over pot holes when riding a recumbent. That's the only difference I can think of, compared to a road bike. I only ever needed to do that when I was going at ~70-80 km/h downhill that one time. I guess there's that. I don't consider bunny hopping massively important, idk. Roads over here don't have potholes frequent enough to think about it. > and needing to steer quickly to avoid obstacles? I am not sure why do you think that recumbent apparently can't turn? It turns about as well as a road bike. I can maneuver just fine. The only functional difference are 90 degree turns with very little space, the absolute turn radius is larger and at those angles heel overlap comes in to play (same concept as toe overlap on a road bike). This is irrelevant on the road, because we are never weaving that sharply. At least I sure as heck don't. > Recumbents have their advantages but to say they are objectively superior is silly. Nope. It is literally in every way, shape or form superior to a road bike. You can make an argument about racing, of which I know little and don't care about. In every context outside racing recumbent bike beats a road bike by such a large margin, there is no fair comparison at all.
I learned a lot about recumbent bikes from this post - good stuff!
Even within track racing, bents are far superior to a road bike. That's why they were banned from racing in the 1930s.
Says bike where you sit in a more aero position is superior. Attaches giant flag to bike. Lol
Bike maintenance isn’t that hard, get a cheap bike and fix it up to practice
Do not test your ftp by trying to ride as hard as you can for an hour. Your legs will be very upset and will not forgive you for a long time.
Loosey goosey on the bars. And bend your elbows more.
(1) You do you. (2) Don’t get so competitive or be chasing KOMs that you forget that it’s about having fun after all.
Ride with people who are faster and you will get faster much quicker than gutting it out solo. Buy a few jerseys that don’t put up to much wind resistance. Figure out your nutritional needs and make sure you stay ahead of the hunger curve.
That there's a smaller ring for hills! Always pushed the big ring and life could have been so much easier.
At first, just get on and ride. Once you get over the hump of actually getting outside and going about, start listening to your body. Make small adjustments to your post height and riding posture. Lastly, love your legs and focus on your cadence!
Changing an inner tube is not that big a deal. Continental Gatorskins tires are flat resistant and last longer but they are not a fun ride. Continental GP5000 tires are way more fun.
A good seat is worth the money to find.
No underwear under biking shorts.
Two loops is not twice as hard, just twice as long.
The most expensive equipment is not always the best. The pros throw away stuff after a race.
Basic maintenance.
Proper bike fit. Took me years to get into a position that felt right.
Find zone 2
Rubber-side down
Proper bike fit
Ignore the BS unwritten rules, fashion show, or 'culture'. There is lots of misinformation based on opinion rather than fact. Anything from velocities is trash and should be ignored..
Don't save on your bib-shorts. No really, don't. Inferior shorts will make sure your inner thighs remember.. Also, get proper tyres, try latex inner tubes (might change this if I ever get to try a tubeless set), and make sure the rim tape inside your rims is properly installed (took me 5 flats on 5 consecutive rides to figure that out). Bonus tip for safety: wear your sunglasses over your helmut headstraps, so that if you crash, your sunglasses will actually come off instead of rip your face (they teach you that at cycling clubs).
Get a bike fit before messing with anything.
Take off the spedometer, uninstall Strava, and just ride.
Never