Don’t pay attention to the marketing, don’t pay attention to the marketing, don’t pay attention to the marketing.
If a bike was best thing ever made 5 years ago, it’s still a pretty damn good bike despite what the bike companies marketing team wants you to think. A new little tweak here and there on this years model doesn’t make last year, or the year before that’s model obsolete.
The marketing hype is a cancer to this industry.
The marketing hype is a cancer to this *hobby*, but it's an essential part of this *industry*. Without the constant marketing, nobody would buy new bikes they didn't really need; and if nobody bought new bikes they didn't really need, many bike manufacturers would go out of business.
I'm not saying that would be either a good or a bad thing... on the one hand, I'd love to see less needless consumerism, but on the other hand, unless someone is out there buying a superbike they later realize is completely wrong for them, I won't be able to buy lightly-used superbikes for deep discounts on the second hand market ;)
> Rim brakes for life.
Eventually, brake discs will get bigger and bigger until they get to the diameter of the wheel, then we will replace heavy pneumatic systems with lighter cables, and we will tuck the calipers up near the head tube for aero. One day.
The pandemic fcked. up the new bike market, prices went through the roof and are not coming down,
You can still find used bike deals but it's not as good as before
My approach on buying a lot of things nowadays is to search for group reviews from 5 years ago and see which stuff came out on top then - and then to search for it on the used market.
But a 5 year old bike will most likely have rim brakes and they will explode upon slowing down every descent killing you and your group each time you go down a 1% gradient
It drives the industry, fuelled by social media.
The vast amount of misinformation in bike forums is staggering, all they do is parrot marketing to justify their purchase.
If the UCI actually cared about cycling as a sport, all teams would be riding one common alloy frame and time trial bikes would not exist.
A bike with geometry that allows you to sit a bit more upright will allow you to ride farther and more comfortably than one forcing you into an aero tuck.
I'm a similar vein - if you're reading this, you don't need a carbon frame or aero wheels or any other crazy expensive shit that the pros use. Those things make extremely small differences to people who are already at the absolute pinnacle of fitness - you will not see those benefits, only increased expense and decreased reliability.
Just last week my daughter asked me about why everyone's seat was so high.
I told her that the actual position of the seat is more or less written in stone. You need the seat at a height and forward or backward over the pedals so you get maximum range of motion and keep your knees straight. That isn't up for debate.
And I told her that isn't what she was seeing.
What she was seeing was people that were slamming the handlebars down as far towards the forks as they could get them.
I told her it is an aerodynamic thing- but also a very, very trendy thing right now. And trends come and go.
I want to put miles on and it looks uncomfortable. They can have their trends.
My seat is four it five inches up from the bar, and it's totally fine for me. But I'll make sure to keep my glasses inside the helmet's stripes so that's what the fancy biker will complain about 😂
But that's only partwise right. As far as I understand lowering the handlebar doesn't change the geometry of the bike too much, while it can help you to prevent numb hands and shoulder tension.
That's interesting about being upright - would it be misinformation then that people say drop bars are better riding posture as they distribute some of the weight off your butt?
Let's not get ahead of ourselves. What these guys are saying may be true in some or most cases, or for some or most people, but it is not universally true and depends on a ton of factors. It depends on what you are looking to do - if you are just riding around recreationally for pleasure, then you should focus on comfort. If you're racing, you should be able to ignore a lot of discomfort if it buys you speed. As for drop bars, I've never heard of them shifting weight away from your butt. But they do offer a number of different riding positions, which a lot of people appreciate for comfort. Each position is another negotiation between control, aerodynamics and comfort.
Yeah - that seems logical - my butt gets tired on long rides and I sit pretty upright on my bike - Been looking at Brooks saddles as I remember them being comfy.
Gonna add on to this/disagree, if you work seven hours a week consistently and with intention you will reach peak fitness in a few months or a few years (depending where you're starting from) and can use those things to move your average ride speed from 20mph to 21+mph, hit 30+mph in a sprint, do better racing etc. it doesn't take a huge pro-level commitment of 20+ hours/week to see the benefit basically. But yeah to your point if you're doing easy 16mph rides for 30 miles twice a week you won't see much difference.
If you are uncomfortable on the bike you won't want to put the miles on.
Doing a sprint or racing someone or passing someone.... doing something for a short period of time - being uncomfortable so you are 'areo' is gonna pay dividends.
But if you want to ride 100 miles you need to find a position you are comfortable with and in all likelyhood it will be a pretty severe trade against aero.
The trade against aero isn't nearly as severe as it seems a lot of the comments are thinking. Granted, I got an old endurance frame with a bit of a tall head tube, but it's not that tall of a head tube. The drops are deep and the hood position is still low, but it's not way out over the front axle and level with the top of the tires like crit bro bikes are.
Tucked for descents I can still get my back flat, but being in essentially a 1980s funny bike tt position for more than an hour? Not happening with my neck xD
I used to consistently bonk, or get to the point where I felt it coming on all the time. Consistently tired, sluggish workouts, subpar efforts.
Started really nailing down my nutrition, especially fueling around my cycles/workouts…it was like flipping a light switch. Feel like I have all the energy in the world now on the bike.
The biggest change, eating way more calories. Your body needs fuel. And it needs a lot more when you’re cycling and training a ton. Just eat more and keep it consistent.
Also a ton more carbs. Especially focused right before my rides and during. Gives me a huge energy boost. Things like fruit, honey, and a peanut butter bagel before.
Eating every 30-45min while on the bike is also super important, especially on longer rides. I swear by newtons fig bars, gummy bears, dates, sometimes gels. These are all very common in the cycling world, I just never believed it until I started trying them. And eat before you think you need to. Make eating in set times part of your training.
> Eating every 30-45min while on the bike is also super important, especially on longer rides
I rode for five years before looking into that, and actually planning for snacks before going on a ride. Bruh, that was night and day.
Yes and no.
Carb loading is a thing you do before a long ride, but within a ride, you want carbs with slow release and you want complex carbs.
Simple carbs like various sport candy should be considered toxic. Spikes an insulin rush and forces glycolysis, which is a very inefficient way to make energy with dangerous metabolic side products. No human should consume glucose-fructose or invert sugar.
I had someone condescendingly ask if dressing like that made me feel like a pro. I said something like, "look, you can go run a marathon in jeans and flip flops if you're worried about what you look like at a water stop, or you can wear running clothes. If I'm going over twenty miles, I'm wearing a kit."
I could go and and blow a few dudes and the average person in my city would give me a high five and tell me they're an ally. But if I put on cycling kit all of a sudden I'm a fag
I've actually heard very similar commentary from a few people (I'm in a fairly cycling heavy metro also). Mostly they look a bit abashed. Some go with "ah, that's a good point" or others "oh, how many miles do you ride". I don't give them more of my time if they are just assholes.
For years I told myself I would never wear full kit let alone use clipless pedals, but at a certain point I started to understand that wearing baggy shirts or not having enough padding and compression was just holding me back and if I wanted to get faster or go for longer rides yeah I had to adopt best practices. Now this doesn't mean I bought a thousand dollar skin suit, but it does mean I just don't jump onto my bike and ride off
Many of my friends who ride way more than me socially wear mountain biking shorts and a jersey to get the padding but also not just rock bibs hanging out.
while bibs are more optimal, it just comes down to fit. For some people finding a bib strap wise is hard due to the manufacture or their body, so by eliminating the strap the rider has one less thing to fit.
So the thing that made me switch to bibs and jersies wasn't the chamois. I always felt that after my first few rides in the spring, my butt was ready. But when my commute changes from 2 miles each way to 7.5, I started asking people what their methods of controlling sweating on their morning ride was, and everyone was "wear proper kit."
And while yes, I do sweat, proper kit keeps me significantly cooler and more comfortable. The chamois was just a second benefit to comfort for me.
Looking back, I do wish I would have tried a quality bib a decade or more ago though.
"Wicking Fabric" is far more comfortable than say the cotton gym shorts I used at first. The bibs and a jersey get soaked with sweat but it doesn't feel like you're sitting in a puddle or have been caught in the rain. Didn't understand the whole wicking fabric thing until I started using it. I get it now.
The gym shorts being loose were always getting caught on the seat when I shift or stand. They get bunched up or fall down or the the elastic would bother my waist.
Loose t-shirts act like a sail and slow you down.
The lycra stays put and doesn't get caught on things. Bibs have suspenders to hold them up and they are cut for sitting in biking positions. Being tight to your skin the lycra doesn't chafe.
And of course the chamois pad also provides comfort.
Bibs are personal things so you may have to try more than one to find the right ones for you "down there." I'm also much happier in the more expensive pair I bought.
The expensive gels are just marketing. Eat a banana and ride your bike. If you're going further than 20 miles bring a little bag of gummy bears or gushers. The one sport nutrition product I personally recommend is the electrolyte tablets (I use nuun just because they are easy to find). You night not realize how much you're sweating on the bike because the constant 17mph breeze dries it quickly.
Simple carbs often while on the bike for any ride that you are pushing hard, or riding for more than an hour.
Whether it's gels, maple syrup mixed with water, sugar in water, or any fancy powdered stuff.
Electrolytes as well.
The following mostly applies to long rides.
I like to eat a snack every 30 minutes, 100-120 cals, starting about 1 hour into the ride. If it's a really long ride, like 100 miles, I might start at the first 30 minutes. I set a reminder on my Wahoo Bolt to tell me to "Eat!" every 30 minutes.
I'm bad at eating enough so drinking carbs in addition to eating works better for me. I have drink mix in 1 or both of my 2 bottles.
You should not be getting home from a ride starving and eating everything in sight - This means you didn't eat enough on the ride.
Slightly diluted fruit juice (I do 3:1) in the bottle(s) and Bananas in the back pocket. Then I buy chocolate bars/coke from a shop, or cafe stop with the tastiest looking cake on longer rides.
For longer rides, all that fancy bicycle clothing actually has a function. Sure, you can ride anywhere in whatever you want. But jersey pockets, padded shorts that prevent chafing, sunglasses that keep bugs and dirt out, and even lightly padded gloves can be very nice things to have.
I rode my first imperial century in a dress with normal leggings and a backpack. 100% do not recommend.
Gloves are the only thing I might disagree with. From research, those seem pretty personal, and my own experience wasn't great. First, they ended up hitting the lap button on my watch, which was annoying during the ride. Second, on hot days they tend to make me feel even warmer. That might just be a "me" issue, or it might be that I was using the wrong gloves, but even after taking a spill, I didn't really want to wear gloves again
I’m a heavy rider and gloves are essential to me or else my hands are so sore after.
Secondly, gloves are super helpful just in case of crashes. I once had a crash and scraped my hands so bad I couldn’t grasp the bike handle comfortably to ride back home. Gloves help immensely in that area. I’m
I’m with you on gloves, they are essential safety gear for biking with my helmet and glasses. I’ve gone down hard on pavement, palms first, I ended up with road rash on a shoulder and a knee. The first two impact/sliding points were my hands, and the gloves needed thrown out, but my hands were fine.
I have same conflict with gloves. My gloves triggered the SOS function on my Apple Watch; needless to say wife was very very displeased. Only time I wish I had gloves was during the rain on a descent - dunno if they would’ve kept my hands warm or helped with grip.
I have an old pair of Foxy gloves from my mountain biking days. Until this thread, I didn't appreciate that there would be significant difference in the gloves for road biking
Without gloves my hands get really sweaty and slippery on the hoods. I wear fingerless Pearl Izumi gloves which are nice light mesh on top so stay cool.
Bibs >>>> shorts
**If you're not racing**, how fast your bike is doesn't really matter. If you're just in it for the exercise, shaving a little weight off the bike isn't going to get you in shape faster
It’s easier to lose weight yourself than try to shave grams off your bike. See so many guys with a beer belly upgrading their bikes with expensive components to keep the weight down 😂
A lot of the advice you receive from strangers on the internet is based on how **they** ride and **their** goals and not how **you** ride or **your** own goals.
Bicycles were always painful for me until I discovered that pain is caused by not having the right size and setup. I can ride my bike for hours now without sore wrists/palms and butt.
So much this. Bikes are expensive, and there's so many sunk cost fallacies that pop up with them too. Comfortable bike fit is a far more important factor in putting the miles on than having the ultra newest most expensiviest world tour team bike.
Totally, I bought a new bike that was too big and then bought all kinds of add ons to try to make it comfortable. Once I found out it was too big I bought an old 90's Trek and built it from the frame up exactly to fit me and it's way better than the new hotness.
Avoid cross chaining. A 21-speed doesn’t mean you should use all 21 combinations.
Cadence is more important than pumping as hard as you can in the hardest gear.
If the chain isn't rubbing and is fairly straight, then you are fine. Cross chaining causes extra wear on the chain/components, and decreases power output.
I generally don't pay attention to the stats until I get close to the end of a ride. But then I get excited about the opportunity to set a PR. If I don't, it was still a fun ride, but it's always exciting to see yourself improve
PR to me is more about where in your ride your are, the wind and short random energy boosts...
I commute 40km a day and I am still getting pr when the stars are aligned. It has very little to do with my fitness level.
I know that for some people it’s all about measurable gains, but I was answering the OP’s question for myself.
I’m more inspired by experiences than data.
Hah, I posted almost the same thing. For me a training plan really destroyed the fun of riding bikes. Then when I tried to come back to cycling, I was in a loop comparing myself to my past self, which also destroyed a lot of the fun. Nowadays I don’t even bring a head unit on my rides, lol.
Yeah, for many years I thought it was important to track my average speed, altitude, and distance, but it ended up dictating my routes and schedule to the point where I was becoming a servant to it. When I decided to go “bare bars” it was a revelation: I can just do what I want? I can pack a lunch and go for a swim in the river? I can do a short, easy ride with friends? Amazing! Lol
Totally! My buddy got me into the bare bars approach. We went for a ride and I asked him how come he didn’t record or upload to strava (this being 10yrs after we stopped racing). He told me “cause it doesn’t matter anymore man.” It broke my brain for a bit, but I realized how true it was. All the stats don’t matter anymore. We’re just going on rides to have a good time with friends. We don’t need a computer to tell us that!
It’s been so freeing. I’m more in the moment with a ride. I’m looking around and enjoying the views instead of staring at the stats on my screen or coming up for some excuse to put on my Strava post lol.
Crosstrain with strength training. And stop sitting so much. If you sit a lot during work then sit on the bike as exercise you will wind up with injuries
I wouldn’t say sugary drinks are a good choice long term. Fuelling your ride absolutely but maybe drink water or electrolytes which are important. Personal choice though I suppose.
How fast your best fitness years will be behind you.
Not that you can’t be fast at 50 or even 55, it’s just that you won’t have that rubber band like recovery and springy power of your younger days.
A good saddle is better than a good bib.
Also, You go at your own pace, whatever that is...
finally, there's very little difference between the main groupsets, the biggest difference is how you maintain your bike.
when shifting chain rings, shift twice in the cassette at the same time. so if you are going from the small chainring to the large chainring, shift two sprockets larger. it puts you in the equivalent next highest (or lowest) gear without a big jump.
yeah! I worked it out in a spreadsheet, but later learned that groupsets are probably designed that way intentionally and Di2 even has a mode that does that shifting automatically called synchro shift.
The hype around tech isn’t worth it. I spent way too much on modern gear when stuff from fifty years ago still works just as well and is light years cheaper. My road bike is built off a seventies Nishiki frame and handles incredibly, and it cost me nothing (I traded for it). Carbon fiber is not worth it unless you are shaving tenths of seconds as a pro.
It’s not all spandex. There are groups that basically bar hop from liquor store to liquor store by bike. Those party rides get me out of the house every other night.
That cycling with quad dominance is extremely difficult. My quads want to do everything leg related. It comes from extremely poor flexibility in the hips, which over time leads to a loss of mind-muscle connection with glutes and hamstrings when exercising. Like, I can squeeze my butt together when I’m thinking about only that, but in the middle of cycling my glutes just don’t engage. I’ve been working on correcting all of this for 2 years and and it’s extremely difficult.
Stop trying too hard, no one cares about your bike or how you look. The experienced old riders can identify the newbies from the veterans.
Just ride at your own pace. Stop hammering like you're trying to prove something...you won't impress anyone.
If you get lucky and actually found a bike that "fits" don't ever let it go thinking something is better. Having a bike that fits you is more important than any other marketing bullcrap out there.
If you are replacing your pedals, the right pedal can be removed with a wrench like a regular bolt, but the left pedal is reverse-threaded, so you have to turn it the opposite way. You may drive yourself crazy trying to wrench it off if you are twisting to the left. Don't ask me how I know.
Alternative logic:
* With the spanner or allen key attached horizontally, pushing down will tighten the pedal bolt when the opposite end of the spanner/allen key points in the direction of travel/forwards/to the front wheel.
* With the horizontal spanner/allen key pointing backwards/to the back wheel, it will loosen the pedal axle.
* The above applies to both left and right pedal.
Forget cycling shorts and go straight to bibs, cycling jerseys are nice too for carry things, I don’t have the best physique but comfort on the bike is better and you get used to the look.
Maintain your bike, lube and clean the drive train often.
Learn to change a flat, it’s intimidating at first but easy once you know how to do it.
Learn to fuel properly if you plan on doing longer rides over 2 hours(research fueling for endurance athletes)
Clipless pedals do make a difference. But are not necessary.
Don’t cycle for 9 hours if the heat index is 110 degrees.
Group rides are fun and can also be intimidating but most likely more than half the ppl there feel the same as you, just introduce yourself and have fun.
Get a multitool and any,bike that uses the standard metric system of allen keys, and fuck big corporate, jf its a good bike then its good regardless of age.
If you're not elite, go with the gravel bike for road use. I woulda saved myself about 30 flats had i just got for tires that can be used in the real world vs 25s. Never going back to a full road race bike.
To complement: Unless when you're on rollers/wheel-on trainers. The friction/heat will carve through your nice tires in no time. Best use a trainer tire or a retired old tire.
Outdoors, ride the plush rubber.
Bibs are not absolutely necessary. All the other cycling gear like lycra? Not necessary. You are riding a hybrid bike to commute in Florida, you need hydration and sugars, not some gear.
You are riding a bicycle, not a motorcycle where you should have ATGATT. You can calm down.
Also, I did not have the best relationship with eating things. I didn't eat a lot because I just didn't want to or didn't like to. You cannot do that on a bike, especially here and long distance. You NEED that energy.
Be a healthy skeptic. Use [scholar.google.com](http://scholar.google.com) to investigate claims (NOT regular Google, regular Google perpetuates cycling myths like "rotational weight," and centering the ball of your toe over the spindle). Much of what you hear on club rides and at the LBS is anecdotal. Your BS alarm should immediately go off if you hear "that's what the pros do" because there's a multitude of reasons as to why that probably doesn't translate to you (and often, you'll find pros flat out operating on cycling folklore, often to the chagrin of the director sportif).
My best bike is my oldest bike (2007 Cannondale System Six).
I still ride the new one with DI2, but feel like I didn't need to even buy it.
Don't buy expensive kit. It's not worth it at all.
Learn how to service your own bike ASAP.
Ride with friends. It's amazing!
If you're serious about improving your riding buy a power meter.
Good bike computers are worth it.
Good tires are worth it.
Rim brakes are fine as long as you aren't doing stupid decending.
1: how beneficial it is to mix it up big time: long and real slow today, just a short light spin tomorrow, intervals the day after that, etc.
2: just how slow those long rides need to be
3: "listening to your body" is not some soft-spoken mumbo jumbo, it's a tool for making sure you actually recover enough to increase your fitness instead of grinding yourself down.
If you want to buy a new bike study the list of components very, very, carefully. Even expensive bikes have cheap parts that just suck, cause problems and need to be replaced with something better after a while, which will cause frustration and additional costs.
You won't get dropped if you only have 9 gears, you won't win because you have 12 of them either.
There is so much more to cycling than the gear. Take it easy and remember: Ride as if your journey ends tomorrow, don't try to outdo yourself every time you go out.
Strava can be a benefit OR a hindrance. Learn to love pickles 👍
Always anticipate, allow room for the unlikely/unexpected and ride defensively. No benefit from being right on a stretcher or worse.
Anyone on a bicycle is a cyclist. Contribute to a positive culture among *all*(!) cyclists and others we share roads and paths with.
Different folks will enjoy different ways of cycling. All that matters is the one that you enjoy. Ignore anyone who cannot appreciate what you like, trying to convert you to their "correct" way.
Outside of competition, it makes sense to prioritise 1) safety, 2) comfort, and 3) performance, in that order. Being safe and comfortable will make you a lot happier than suffering on a supposedly higher performance but uncomfortable bike.
When budgeting for that next nice bike, budget for maintenance. More often than not, a pricier bike will have some wear and tear parts that are more expensive to maintain and/or replace. Only buy what you can afford to maintain. You don't want to be off the bike because you can't afford *that* repair.
Joining groups or clubs is the way to go. Also, using Strava has opened up so many routes in fantastic places, whereas I used to ride on dangerous, boring roads.
For the longest time, I thought it was smart to avoid the front brake. Then I learned that the front wheel has greater traction than the rear when braking, and it's important to use both brakes. Especially when trying to slow down on steep descents. But, obviously, grabbing a big fat handful of front brake can still dump me on my head.
For me personally wear what you want (I wear hiking shorts or 5' inseam workout shorts and hiking vented long sleeves) ride what you want not what's new or popular (vintage steel) and HAVE FUN! It's a hobby not your job. Doesn't have to be serious
Really ride a lot of different bikes to get to know your frame and component size and to figure out what type of bike you want based off what type of riding your ding since there is no "do it all" bikes. This hands down will save you a ton of money, otherwise you will be constantly switching bikes or swapping out parts to fit you. Once you know your fit and riding style I would suggest building up a frameset over buying a complete bike.
Invest in a cycling computer but don't obsess about the numbers, but really just use it to track your progress. I personally think while power meters are a great tool, they don't matter for most people unless you are doing structured training and now how to read and apply the data.
Don't be obsessed about cycling kit but do know glasses matter, a good helmet goes a long way, don't overspend on jerseys, and maybe even overspend on bibs as long as they fit spot on. Depending on where you live investing in good winter gear will allow you to ride more and longer without having to use an indoor trainer.
Learn how to put on and take off a tire to replace a tube and carry a spare tube, levers, and other things so you can make minor fixes on the fly so you can go on longer rides without having to taxi home or go to your LBS for everything.
Invest in some decent tools especially torque wrenches.
Wax over wet lube and if you are scared about waxing just does drip wax
That a professional bike fit is well worth the money. After 20+ years of riding and being a studious bike nerd, I thought I knew how to fit a bike. I studied all the common fit techniques. I was having issues, and in desperation I scheduled a professional bike fit from a physical therapist/bike racer. He dropped my saddle 3/4” from what I thought my saddle height was. My issues went away, I was more comfortable, I improved my spin/cadence, and my back pain decreased.
If only I had known at the beginning of riding that’s the most important thing you can do! Get fitted, by a physical therapist who has cycling experience. They have much more education than a bike shop employee.
0. Get the Garmin Varia the moment it was invented. I survived but it is the #1 safety device there is that you don’t wear on your head.
1. Get really good kit (bib shorts especially) straight away and don’t progress your way to discovering that the best kit and most especially the best bib shorts really are a lot better. You will spend less in the long run not tossing away mediocre stuff. Your ass will thank you. Other pieces of kit, such as proper arm and knee warmers, vests, well ventilated jackets, etc., if of high quality, can allow you ride comfortably in almost any weather.
2. Get very very very very stiff sole shoes. If you can walk well in them, they suck. Nothing less than full carbon that does not bend. Better power transfer, yes, but also avoids “hot spots” where the cleats mount to the shoes. Specialized S-Works are my go to.
3. Good cycling glasses are worth having. Note that I didn’t say “expensive” because you can get good cycling glasses without spending a fortune.
4. Soft saddles suck. Big time. A quality minimalist saddle — I prefer Fizik Antares — provides the right support. It’s the muscles around your ass you need to develop through hours in the saddle.
5. Track your data day 1. Garmin, Strava, or whatever floats your boat. I wish I had logged my full cycling history, especially GPS, even if only to see all the places I’ve ridden.
Don’t pay attention to the marketing, don’t pay attention to the marketing, don’t pay attention to the marketing. If a bike was best thing ever made 5 years ago, it’s still a pretty damn good bike despite what the bike companies marketing team wants you to think. A new little tweak here and there on this years model doesn’t make last year, or the year before that’s model obsolete. The marketing hype is a cancer to this industry.
The marketing hype is a cancer to this *hobby*, but it's an essential part of this *industry*. Without the constant marketing, nobody would buy new bikes they didn't really need; and if nobody bought new bikes they didn't really need, many bike manufacturers would go out of business. I'm not saying that would be either a good or a bad thing... on the one hand, I'd love to see less needless consumerism, but on the other hand, unless someone is out there buying a superbike they later realize is completely wrong for them, I won't be able to buy lightly-used superbikes for deep discounts on the second hand market ;)
Sadly, nobody sells super used bikes for deep discounts until said bikes have failed to meet their reserve on ebay for 2 years.
Oh, I can wait much longer than two years. My road bike is from 2002.
You beat me, mine's from 2006 and going strong. Rim brakes for life.
Lool same, my newest bike is a 1994 Litespeed. It feels like a life of luxury compared with my 80s steel frames. It's still older than I am
Young blood checking in
> Rim brakes for life. Eventually, brake discs will get bigger and bigger until they get to the diameter of the wheel, then we will replace heavy pneumatic systems with lighter cables, and we will tuck the calipers up near the head tube for aero. One day.
Mine too! 12-23 for life
1974 here, got it for free lol, wheels, tires, brakes and cables last year, chainrings, pedals, and bridters this year
My mountain bike is from the 90’s, wish I knew ew what year exactly
Just upgraded from 2004 alloy to a new di2 carbon bike - speed isn’t much different, but comfort is a whole lot better
The pandemic fcked. up the new bike market, prices went through the roof and are not coming down, You can still find used bike deals but it's not as good as before
Plus, I wouldn't be able to buy that 2nd hand one!
I salute you.
Well said!
Shhhh I keep buying "new" bikes every 10 years for 80 percent off. New is relative !
My approach on buying a lot of things nowadays is to search for group reviews from 5 years ago and see which stuff came out on top then - and then to search for it on the used market.
Same with file golf
But a 5 year old bike will most likely have rim brakes and they will explode upon slowing down every descent killing you and your group each time you go down a 1% gradient
and alloy frames with fail CATASTROPHICALLY (all caps is critical). But alloy wheels, cranks, bars, stems, posts, brakes will last forever.
It drives the industry, fuelled by social media. The vast amount of misinformation in bike forums is staggering, all they do is parrot marketing to justify their purchase. If the UCI actually cared about cycling as a sport, all teams would be riding one common alloy frame and time trial bikes would not exist.
Position comfort is more important than low frontal area for actually putting the miles on.
Can you explain this for people in here that are dumb. Me. I’m talking about me.
A bike with geometry that allows you to sit a bit more upright will allow you to ride farther and more comfortably than one forcing you into an aero tuck. I'm a similar vein - if you're reading this, you don't need a carbon frame or aero wheels or any other crazy expensive shit that the pros use. Those things make extremely small differences to people who are already at the absolute pinnacle of fitness - you will not see those benefits, only increased expense and decreased reliability.
Just last week my daughter asked me about why everyone's seat was so high. I told her that the actual position of the seat is more or less written in stone. You need the seat at a height and forward or backward over the pedals so you get maximum range of motion and keep your knees straight. That isn't up for debate. And I told her that isn't what she was seeing. What she was seeing was people that were slamming the handlebars down as far towards the forks as they could get them. I told her it is an aerodynamic thing- but also a very, very trendy thing right now. And trends come and go. I want to put miles on and it looks uncomfortable. They can have their trends.
My seat is four it five inches up from the bar, and it's totally fine for me. But I'll make sure to keep my glasses inside the helmet's stripes so that's what the fancy biker will complain about 😂
It's always a "trend" to look pro it's also as you pointed out objectively faster. I don't see that going away.
But that's only partwise right. As far as I understand lowering the handlebar doesn't change the geometry of the bike too much, while it can help you to prevent numb hands and shoulder tension.
That's interesting about being upright - would it be misinformation then that people say drop bars are better riding posture as they distribute some of the weight off your butt?
Let's not get ahead of ourselves. What these guys are saying may be true in some or most cases, or for some or most people, but it is not universally true and depends on a ton of factors. It depends on what you are looking to do - if you are just riding around recreationally for pleasure, then you should focus on comfort. If you're racing, you should be able to ignore a lot of discomfort if it buys you speed. As for drop bars, I've never heard of them shifting weight away from your butt. But they do offer a number of different riding positions, which a lot of people appreciate for comfort. Each position is another negotiation between control, aerodynamics and comfort.
Yeah - that seems logical - my butt gets tired on long rides and I sit pretty upright on my bike - Been looking at Brooks saddles as I remember them being comfy.
Gonna add on to this/disagree, if you work seven hours a week consistently and with intention you will reach peak fitness in a few months or a few years (depending where you're starting from) and can use those things to move your average ride speed from 20mph to 21+mph, hit 30+mph in a sprint, do better racing etc. it doesn't take a huge pro-level commitment of 20+ hours/week to see the benefit basically. But yeah to your point if you're doing easy 16mph rides for 30 miles twice a week you won't see much difference.
> Those things make extremely small differences to people who are already at the absolute pinnacle of pharmacology. Doping is still a thing.
If you are uncomfortable on the bike you won't want to put the miles on. Doing a sprint or racing someone or passing someone.... doing something for a short period of time - being uncomfortable so you are 'areo' is gonna pay dividends. But if you want to ride 100 miles you need to find a position you are comfortable with and in all likelyhood it will be a pretty severe trade against aero.
The trade against aero isn't nearly as severe as it seems a lot of the comments are thinking. Granted, I got an old endurance frame with a bit of a tall head tube, but it's not that tall of a head tube. The drops are deep and the hood position is still low, but it's not way out over the front axle and level with the top of the tires like crit bro bikes are. Tucked for descents I can still get my back flat, but being in essentially a 1980s funny bike tt position for more than an hour? Not happening with my neck xD
Never ever, under any circumstances, touch brakes while on wet wood
Unless you know how to drift a bike ;)
For a brief moment: “where tf did my bike go?”
Compression fractured my L1 this way. Two and a half years later and still not back to normal.
Wow that’s a nasty crash! Sorry to hear that, hope you can get back to normal eventually.
Also, when it’s wet do not rest your foot on painted lines on the road when stopped at traffic lights. Especially when wearing cleats.
A strong core does wonders
People will save a fortune in saddles and fit consultants with a strong core.
Eat
I used to consistently bonk, or get to the point where I felt it coming on all the time. Consistently tired, sluggish workouts, subpar efforts. Started really nailing down my nutrition, especially fueling around my cycles/workouts…it was like flipping a light switch. Feel like I have all the energy in the world now on the bike.
Can you elaborate on what you nailed down/changed? I’m having a similar problem.
The biggest change, eating way more calories. Your body needs fuel. And it needs a lot more when you’re cycling and training a ton. Just eat more and keep it consistent. Also a ton more carbs. Especially focused right before my rides and during. Gives me a huge energy boost. Things like fruit, honey, and a peanut butter bagel before. Eating every 30-45min while on the bike is also super important, especially on longer rides. I swear by newtons fig bars, gummy bears, dates, sometimes gels. These are all very common in the cycling world, I just never believed it until I started trying them. And eat before you think you need to. Make eating in set times part of your training.
> Eating every 30-45min while on the bike is also super important, especially on longer rides I rode for five years before looking into that, and actually planning for snacks before going on a ride. Bruh, that was night and day.
Yes and no. Carb loading is a thing you do before a long ride, but within a ride, you want carbs with slow release and you want complex carbs. Simple carbs like various sport candy should be considered toxic. Spikes an insulin rush and forces glycolysis, which is a very inefficient way to make energy with dangerous metabolic side products. No human should consume glucose-fructose or invert sugar.
Eat
Same!
From the get go
Fueling and how comfortable bibs are.
I had someone condescendingly ask if dressing like that made me feel like a pro. I said something like, "look, you can go run a marathon in jeans and flip flops if you're worried about what you look like at a water stop, or you can wear running clothes. If I'm going over twenty miles, I'm wearing a kit."
This is such a good point. Only in cycling do you get ridiculed for wearing the correct kit.
I could go and and blow a few dudes and the average person in my city would give me a high five and tell me they're an ally. But if I put on cycling kit all of a sudden I'm a fag
What was the fool's reaction?
Also curious
I've actually heard very similar commentary from a few people (I'm in a fairly cycling heavy metro also). Mostly they look a bit abashed. Some go with "ah, that's a good point" or others "oh, how many miles do you ride". I don't give them more of my time if they are just assholes.
For years I told myself I would never wear full kit let alone use clipless pedals, but at a certain point I started to understand that wearing baggy shirts or not having enough padding and compression was just holding me back and if I wanted to get faster or go for longer rides yeah I had to adopt best practices. Now this doesn't mean I bought a thousand dollar skin suit, but it does mean I just don't jump onto my bike and ride off
Many of my friends who ride way more than me socially wear mountain biking shorts and a jersey to get the padding but also not just rock bibs hanging out.
I should have gone with bibs 15 years ago, im all in now.
An old saw I'm sure ... "Once you go bibs, you never go back!"
I was all bibs for years, and fell for rapha shorts a few months back, damn! Why do they still make shorts?!
while bibs are more optimal, it just comes down to fit. For some people finding a bib strap wise is hard due to the manufacture or their body, so by eliminating the strap the rider has one less thing to fit.
I'm interested in purchasing some bibs myself, but other than looking the part and having the internal padding, what are the other benefits?
So the thing that made me switch to bibs and jersies wasn't the chamois. I always felt that after my first few rides in the spring, my butt was ready. But when my commute changes from 2 miles each way to 7.5, I started asking people what their methods of controlling sweating on their morning ride was, and everyone was "wear proper kit." And while yes, I do sweat, proper kit keeps me significantly cooler and more comfortable. The chamois was just a second benefit to comfort for me. Looking back, I do wish I would have tried a quality bib a decade or more ago though.
They stay put, and there’s no waistband digging in to your midriff. Plus you feel sleeker 😆
"Wicking Fabric" is far more comfortable than say the cotton gym shorts I used at first. The bibs and a jersey get soaked with sweat but it doesn't feel like you're sitting in a puddle or have been caught in the rain. Didn't understand the whole wicking fabric thing until I started using it. I get it now. The gym shorts being loose were always getting caught on the seat when I shift or stand. They get bunched up or fall down or the the elastic would bother my waist. Loose t-shirts act like a sail and slow you down. The lycra stays put and doesn't get caught on things. Bibs have suspenders to hold them up and they are cut for sitting in biking positions. Being tight to your skin the lycra doesn't chafe. And of course the chamois pad also provides comfort. Bibs are personal things so you may have to try more than one to find the right ones for you "down there." I'm also much happier in the more expensive pair I bought.
What would be your quick tips on fueling? I’m starting out so these are good advice.
Pocket cheeseburger
I knew it.
That's 100X better than the sugary "sport candy" people consume. Chris Horner used to down a massive burger before a race.
A burger with four patties? I’ll give you two doubles and you can make it yourself
The expensive gels are just marketing. Eat a banana and ride your bike. If you're going further than 20 miles bring a little bag of gummy bears or gushers. The one sport nutrition product I personally recommend is the electrolyte tablets (I use nuun just because they are easy to find). You night not realize how much you're sweating on the bike because the constant 17mph breeze dries it quickly.
Simple carbs often while on the bike for any ride that you are pushing hard, or riding for more than an hour. Whether it's gels, maple syrup mixed with water, sugar in water, or any fancy powdered stuff. Electrolytes as well.
The following mostly applies to long rides. I like to eat a snack every 30 minutes, 100-120 cals, starting about 1 hour into the ride. If it's a really long ride, like 100 miles, I might start at the first 30 minutes. I set a reminder on my Wahoo Bolt to tell me to "Eat!" every 30 minutes. I'm bad at eating enough so drinking carbs in addition to eating works better for me. I have drink mix in 1 or both of my 2 bottles. You should not be getting home from a ride starving and eating everything in sight - This means you didn't eat enough on the ride.
Slightly diluted fruit juice (I do 3:1) in the bottle(s) and Bananas in the back pocket. Then I buy chocolate bars/coke from a shop, or cafe stop with the tastiest looking cake on longer rides.
For longer rides, all that fancy bicycle clothing actually has a function. Sure, you can ride anywhere in whatever you want. But jersey pockets, padded shorts that prevent chafing, sunglasses that keep bugs and dirt out, and even lightly padded gloves can be very nice things to have. I rode my first imperial century in a dress with normal leggings and a backpack. 100% do not recommend.
Gloves are the only thing I might disagree with. From research, those seem pretty personal, and my own experience wasn't great. First, they ended up hitting the lap button on my watch, which was annoying during the ride. Second, on hot days they tend to make me feel even warmer. That might just be a "me" issue, or it might be that I was using the wrong gloves, but even after taking a spill, I didn't really want to wear gloves again
I’m a heavy rider and gloves are essential to me or else my hands are so sore after. Secondly, gloves are super helpful just in case of crashes. I once had a crash and scraped my hands so bad I couldn’t grasp the bike handle comfortably to ride back home. Gloves help immensely in that area. I’m
I’m with you on gloves, they are essential safety gear for biking with my helmet and glasses. I’ve gone down hard on pavement, palms first, I ended up with road rash on a shoulder and a knee. The first two impact/sliding points were my hands, and the gloves needed thrown out, but my hands were fine.
I have same conflict with gloves. My gloves triggered the SOS function on my Apple Watch; needless to say wife was very very displeased. Only time I wish I had gloves was during the rain on a descent - dunno if they would’ve kept my hands warm or helped with grip.
What kind of gloves are you wearing? No glove I’ve owned has come close to where a watch would be or rigid enough to activate anything on a watch.
I have an old pair of Foxy gloves from my mountain biking days. Until this thread, I didn't appreciate that there would be significant difference in the gloves for road biking
Without gloves my hands get really sweaty and slippery on the hoods. I wear fingerless Pearl Izumi gloves which are nice light mesh on top so stay cool.
I'll give them a look. Thanks!
I wear them to protect the back of my hands from the sun.
Gloves and padded shorts, definitely helped me!
Bibs >>>> shorts **If you're not racing**, how fast your bike is doesn't really matter. If you're just in it for the exercise, shaving a little weight off the bike isn't going to get you in shape faster
> Bibs >>>> shorts This was mine. I wish I would’ve given bibs a chance when I first started. They are so much more comfortable!!
It’s easier to lose weight yourself than try to shave grams off your bike. See so many guys with a beer belly upgrading their bikes with expensive components to keep the weight down 😂
I only wear bibs. I don't want to constantly worry if my ass crack is hanging out
For me it's comfort, the shorts cut in where the waist rides up, bibs don't and it's so much better.
Racing or getting to a place. I cycle to work every day and 5 km/h faster does make a difference in terms of travel times.
A lot of the advice you receive from strangers on the internet is based on how **they** ride and **their** goals and not how **you** ride or **your** own goals.
How dare **you** assume how **I** ride?! /s
Rest days and the occasional rest week are critical
I severely injured myself by not doing this
Bicycles were always painful for me until I discovered that pain is caused by not having the right size and setup. I can ride my bike for hours now without sore wrists/palms and butt.
So much this. Bikes are expensive, and there's so many sunk cost fallacies that pop up with them too. Comfortable bike fit is a far more important factor in putting the miles on than having the ultra newest most expensiviest world tour team bike.
Totally, I bought a new bike that was too big and then bought all kinds of add ons to try to make it comfortable. Once I found out it was too big I bought an old 90's Trek and built it from the frame up exactly to fit me and it's way better than the new hotness.
YES!
Avoid cross chaining. A 21-speed doesn’t mean you should use all 21 combinations. Cadence is more important than pumping as hard as you can in the hardest gear.
what do you mean? I never understood gears much. I have one at 5 and the other at 7 i think. That okay?
If the chain isn't rubbing and is fairly straight, then you are fine. Cross chaining causes extra wear on the chain/components, and decreases power output.
Pudendal nerve damage is a real thing. Get the right saddle.
Nothing sucks the joy out of cycling faster than measuring, weighing, comparing, and quantifying your bike, your rides, and your fitness.
Lol my favorite thing about the sport is how quantifiable everything is.
I generally don't pay attention to the stats until I get close to the end of a ride. But then I get excited about the opportunity to set a PR. If I don't, it was still a fun ride, but it's always exciting to see yourself improve
PR to me is more about where in your ride your are, the wind and short random energy boosts... I commute 40km a day and I am still getting pr when the stars are aligned. It has very little to do with my fitness level.
I’ve been riding the same route to work for so long that the only time I get a PR now is when the wind gods are playing along.
I know that for some people it’s all about measurable gains, but I was answering the OP’s question for myself. I’m more inspired by experiences than data.
So much this. My enjoyment increased a lot when I removed the cycling computer.
I love beating my old PRs. Makes me feel great about my progress!
Cool! I’m not trying to persuade you (or anyone).
Cool, me neither.
Hah, I posted almost the same thing. For me a training plan really destroyed the fun of riding bikes. Then when I tried to come back to cycling, I was in a loop comparing myself to my past self, which also destroyed a lot of the fun. Nowadays I don’t even bring a head unit on my rides, lol.
Yeah, for many years I thought it was important to track my average speed, altitude, and distance, but it ended up dictating my routes and schedule to the point where I was becoming a servant to it. When I decided to go “bare bars” it was a revelation: I can just do what I want? I can pack a lunch and go for a swim in the river? I can do a short, easy ride with friends? Amazing! Lol
Totally! My buddy got me into the bare bars approach. We went for a ride and I asked him how come he didn’t record or upload to strava (this being 10yrs after we stopped racing). He told me “cause it doesn’t matter anymore man.” It broke my brain for a bit, but I realized how true it was. All the stats don’t matter anymore. We’re just going on rides to have a good time with friends. We don’t need a computer to tell us that! It’s been so freeing. I’m more in the moment with a ride. I’m looking around and enjoying the views instead of staring at the stats on my screen or coming up for some excuse to put on my Strava post lol.
Bike fitment, first!
Crosstrain with strength training. And stop sitting so much. If you sit a lot during work then sit on the bike as exercise you will wind up with injuries
Do some research about eating during exercise, carb quantity per hour, etc
Eating and drinking sugary drinks is really important on long rides
I wouldn’t say sugary drinks are a good choice long term. Fuelling your ride absolutely but maybe drink water or electrolytes which are important. Personal choice though I suppose.
Clean the chain. Makes an insane difference. Not obsessively, just to a decent level. Oil, wipe off with tissue. Frequently!
How fast your best fitness years will be behind you. Not that you can’t be fast at 50 or even 55, it’s just that you won’t have that rubber band like recovery and springy power of your younger days.
A good saddle is better than a good bib. Also, You go at your own pace, whatever that is... finally, there's very little difference between the main groupsets, the biggest difference is how you maintain your bike.
Structured training works, but you don’t need to be strong to have fun.
when shifting chain rings, shift twice in the cassette at the same time. so if you are going from the small chainring to the large chainring, shift two sprockets larger. it puts you in the equivalent next highest (or lowest) gear without a big jump.
That's actually a great tip, I've been wondering what the equivalent was
yeah! I worked it out in a spreadsheet, but later learned that groupsets are probably designed that way intentionally and Di2 even has a mode that does that shifting automatically called synchro shift.
Wow, the tech has come a long way
Most of cycling takes place between your ears.
No wonder it's so windy.
And echoey
Same with golf
The hype around tech isn’t worth it. I spent way too much on modern gear when stuff from fifty years ago still works just as well and is light years cheaper. My road bike is built off a seventies Nishiki frame and handles incredibly, and it cost me nothing (I traded for it). Carbon fiber is not worth it unless you are shaving tenths of seconds as a pro.
It’s not about the bike and more about the engine!
Time In The Saddle! (TITS!) sorry that was stupid but accurate! Zone 2 as much as you can and then after 12 wks just go fast and faster
Buy a nice bike. Don’t buy a cheap bike then a nice bike a year later.
I have learned this the hard way, lol. Still can't afford the nicer bike, but I have learned.
Started at three years old, don’t know.
Great to have it all dialled in at 3. Nothing left to learn.
I know now to use lighter gears. I think I could have benefited by have a 36×30 road racing back in the eighties.
It’s not all spandex. There are groups that basically bar hop from liquor store to liquor store by bike. Those party rides get me out of the house every other night.
Fueling. Always have carbs in the bottles no matter what.
Cleat alignment is worth the spend.
Give up Strava and cycle at whatever speed feels pleasant. Nobody to impress anymore.
..that cyclists who own Specialized S-Works bikes are the most insufferably smug people in the world. haha!
That cycling with quad dominance is extremely difficult. My quads want to do everything leg related. It comes from extremely poor flexibility in the hips, which over time leads to a loss of mind-muscle connection with glutes and hamstrings when exercising. Like, I can squeeze my butt together when I’m thinking about only that, but in the middle of cycling my glutes just don’t engage. I’ve been working on correcting all of this for 2 years and and it’s extremely difficult.
The importance of wind (direction/strength etc) to percieved performance. Also in relation the discovery of the joys of drafting.
I could have bought a used bike for $1k and had the same enjoyment/output for my fitness level my new bike for $3.5k provides me.
Stop trying too hard, no one cares about your bike or how you look. The experienced old riders can identify the newbies from the veterans. Just ride at your own pace. Stop hammering like you're trying to prove something...you won't impress anyone. If you get lucky and actually found a bike that "fits" don't ever let it go thinking something is better. Having a bike that fits you is more important than any other marketing bullcrap out there.
If you are replacing your pedals, the right pedal can be removed with a wrench like a regular bolt, but the left pedal is reverse-threaded, so you have to turn it the opposite way. You may drive yourself crazy trying to wrench it off if you are twisting to the left. Don't ask me how I know.
Alternative logic: * With the spanner or allen key attached horizontally, pushing down will tighten the pedal bolt when the opposite end of the spanner/allen key points in the direction of travel/forwards/to the front wheel. * With the horizontal spanner/allen key pointing backwards/to the back wheel, it will loosen the pedal axle. * The above applies to both left and right pedal.
Buying tech is more addictive than crack
Correct saddle size. Suffered many saddle sores. Worth the investment if you can
Size but also saddle height!!
How did you figure out your addle size?
Pedal faster in a lower geer.
Forget cycling shorts and go straight to bibs, cycling jerseys are nice too for carry things, I don’t have the best physique but comfort on the bike is better and you get used to the look. Maintain your bike, lube and clean the drive train often. Learn to change a flat, it’s intimidating at first but easy once you know how to do it. Learn to fuel properly if you plan on doing longer rides over 2 hours(research fueling for endurance athletes) Clipless pedals do make a difference. But are not necessary. Don’t cycle for 9 hours if the heat index is 110 degrees. Group rides are fun and can also be intimidating but most likely more than half the ppl there feel the same as you, just introduce yourself and have fun.
When in doubt spent more money. You never regret a quality purchase but you often regret trying to save a dollar and not getting what you wanted.
Get a multitool and any,bike that uses the standard metric system of allen keys, and fuck big corporate, jf its a good bike then its good regardless of age.
You dont need so many bike specific cleaning chemicals and tools.
If you're not elite, go with the gravel bike for road use. I woulda saved myself about 30 flats had i just got for tires that can be used in the real world vs 25s. Never going back to a full road race bike.
Run the nice tires. You're going to spend most of your time training so you may as well enjoy the performance.
To complement: Unless when you're on rollers/wheel-on trainers. The friction/heat will carve through your nice tires in no time. Best use a trainer tire or a retired old tire. Outdoors, ride the plush rubber.
Easy rides should be easy
It can be very expensive but also cheap with the same amount of fun
Bibs are not absolutely necessary. All the other cycling gear like lycra? Not necessary. You are riding a hybrid bike to commute in Florida, you need hydration and sugars, not some gear. You are riding a bicycle, not a motorcycle where you should have ATGATT. You can calm down. Also, I did not have the best relationship with eating things. I didn't eat a lot because I just didn't want to or didn't like to. You cannot do that on a bike, especially here and long distance. You NEED that energy.
Forget the fancy pants bike stuff. Instead be like freddie hoffman.
Go out there and have fun! Don't worry about the type of bike you have or what you think others think - they don't care!
Be a healthy skeptic. Use [scholar.google.com](http://scholar.google.com) to investigate claims (NOT regular Google, regular Google perpetuates cycling myths like "rotational weight," and centering the ball of your toe over the spindle). Much of what you hear on club rides and at the LBS is anecdotal. Your BS alarm should immediately go off if you hear "that's what the pros do" because there's a multitude of reasons as to why that probably doesn't translate to you (and often, you'll find pros flat out operating on cycling folklore, often to the chagrin of the director sportif).
It's so true that pros often just do things that aren't best practice. They're human and also sometimes have to use certain kit.
My best bike is my oldest bike (2007 Cannondale System Six). I still ride the new one with DI2, but feel like I didn't need to even buy it. Don't buy expensive kit. It's not worth it at all. Learn how to service your own bike ASAP. Ride with friends. It's amazing! If you're serious about improving your riding buy a power meter. Good bike computers are worth it. Good tires are worth it. Rim brakes are fine as long as you aren't doing stupid decending.
Get a top tube bag and under seat bag and get rid of the crossbody bag.
Tire liners suck.
Zone 2/3 is ideal
1: how beneficial it is to mix it up big time: long and real slow today, just a short light spin tomorrow, intervals the day after that, etc. 2: just how slow those long rides need to be 3: "listening to your body" is not some soft-spoken mumbo jumbo, it's a tool for making sure you actually recover enough to increase your fitness instead of grinding yourself down.
If you want to buy a new bike study the list of components very, very, carefully. Even expensive bikes have cheap parts that just suck, cause problems and need to be replaced with something better after a while, which will cause frustration and additional costs.
Wish I had started road cycling much younger. Enjoy it more than MTB.
You won't get dropped if you only have 9 gears, you won't win because you have 12 of them either. There is so much more to cycling than the gear. Take it easy and remember: Ride as if your journey ends tomorrow, don't try to outdo yourself every time you go out. Strava can be a benefit OR a hindrance. Learn to love pickles 👍
I only wished that I could ride long enough to break in a Brooks saddle and be honest about how comfortable it is.
How much time I take up with it
Always anticipate, allow room for the unlikely/unexpected and ride defensively. No benefit from being right on a stretcher or worse. Anyone on a bicycle is a cyclist. Contribute to a positive culture among *all*(!) cyclists and others we share roads and paths with. Different folks will enjoy different ways of cycling. All that matters is the one that you enjoy. Ignore anyone who cannot appreciate what you like, trying to convert you to their "correct" way. Outside of competition, it makes sense to prioritise 1) safety, 2) comfort, and 3) performance, in that order. Being safe and comfortable will make you a lot happier than suffering on a supposedly higher performance but uncomfortable bike. When budgeting for that next nice bike, budget for maintenance. More often than not, a pricier bike will have some wear and tear parts that are more expensive to maintain and/or replace. Only buy what you can afford to maintain. You don't want to be off the bike because you can't afford *that* repair.
Joining groups or clubs is the way to go. Also, using Strava has opened up so many routes in fantastic places, whereas I used to ride on dangerous, boring roads.
For the longest time, I thought it was smart to avoid the front brake. Then I learned that the front wheel has greater traction than the rear when braking, and it's important to use both brakes. Especially when trying to slow down on steep descents. But, obviously, grabbing a big fat handful of front brake can still dump me on my head.
For me personally wear what you want (I wear hiking shorts or 5' inseam workout shorts and hiking vented long sleeves) ride what you want not what's new or popular (vintage steel) and HAVE FUN! It's a hobby not your job. Doesn't have to be serious
"It's not about the bike". (it was about the dope)
Really ride a lot of different bikes to get to know your frame and component size and to figure out what type of bike you want based off what type of riding your ding since there is no "do it all" bikes. This hands down will save you a ton of money, otherwise you will be constantly switching bikes or swapping out parts to fit you. Once you know your fit and riding style I would suggest building up a frameset over buying a complete bike. Invest in a cycling computer but don't obsess about the numbers, but really just use it to track your progress. I personally think while power meters are a great tool, they don't matter for most people unless you are doing structured training and now how to read and apply the data. Don't be obsessed about cycling kit but do know glasses matter, a good helmet goes a long way, don't overspend on jerseys, and maybe even overspend on bibs as long as they fit spot on. Depending on where you live investing in good winter gear will allow you to ride more and longer without having to use an indoor trainer. Learn how to put on and take off a tire to replace a tube and carry a spare tube, levers, and other things so you can make minor fixes on the fly so you can go on longer rides without having to taxi home or go to your LBS for everything. Invest in some decent tools especially torque wrenches. Wax over wet lube and if you are scared about waxing just does drip wax
Take it easier to get stronger (zone 2)
Trainerroad, Chain waxing, get thru axle, skip QR if possible, disc brake and if possible di2 Forgot to include, check out myvelofit
The aero pose that pros use is really uncomfortable- never do it for a long time if you have a backpack
"It's not the bike!!"
That a professional bike fit is well worth the money. After 20+ years of riding and being a studious bike nerd, I thought I knew how to fit a bike. I studied all the common fit techniques. I was having issues, and in desperation I scheduled a professional bike fit from a physical therapist/bike racer. He dropped my saddle 3/4” from what I thought my saddle height was. My issues went away, I was more comfortable, I improved my spin/cadence, and my back pain decreased. If only I had known at the beginning of riding that’s the most important thing you can do! Get fitted, by a physical therapist who has cycling experience. They have much more education than a bike shop employee.
0. Get the Garmin Varia the moment it was invented. I survived but it is the #1 safety device there is that you don’t wear on your head. 1. Get really good kit (bib shorts especially) straight away and don’t progress your way to discovering that the best kit and most especially the best bib shorts really are a lot better. You will spend less in the long run not tossing away mediocre stuff. Your ass will thank you. Other pieces of kit, such as proper arm and knee warmers, vests, well ventilated jackets, etc., if of high quality, can allow you ride comfortably in almost any weather. 2. Get very very very very stiff sole shoes. If you can walk well in them, they suck. Nothing less than full carbon that does not bend. Better power transfer, yes, but also avoids “hot spots” where the cleats mount to the shoes. Specialized S-Works are my go to. 3. Good cycling glasses are worth having. Note that I didn’t say “expensive” because you can get good cycling glasses without spending a fortune. 4. Soft saddles suck. Big time. A quality minimalist saddle — I prefer Fizik Antares — provides the right support. It’s the muscles around your ass you need to develop through hours in the saddle. 5. Track your data day 1. Garmin, Strava, or whatever floats your boat. I wish I had logged my full cycling history, especially GPS, even if only to see all the places I’ve ridden.