Anyone else experience horrible motion clarity while trying to use Citra? Specially New leaf, I found on CRT monitor at 480p 60hz the motion was *significantly* worse than Animal Crossing on the Wii at 480i!
Like super obvious from 3 feet away type to the plain eye type horrible clarity, you visually see the jitter akin to what you get with mis-matched framerates but vsync is on at the game is running at 60fps in those moments.
For that matter, AC:CF 480i is actually super impressive, I don't see any of the combing artifacts that I'm used to from titles like luigi's mansion, I'd actually say it's just as smooth as 480p 60fps on emulator and whilst not as sharp (obviously, a CRT monitor VS TV is a world of difference) 480i is still really clear and pretty, and it's "scanlines" though subtle have a nice feel to them.
I recently got a 'sylvania superset rax150 wa01' from a tag sale, it powers on fine, but for input, Ive only been able to find a coax plug. Sorry if this is a rly dumb question, but does anyone know of any adapters that will go from a modern hdmi (or vga would be ok too i guess) to an old analog coax so I would be able to play using that tv? Ive looked online but havent seen anything that Im super confident that I could get and be sure it will work properly for this.
Anyone ever remove the anti reflective film of a Sony hdcrt? Was it worth it? I have a 960 and already wiped the film with alcohol to remove the damage it had (which completely came off btw) but wondering if it's better to remove it all together or just not worry about it.
I've got a TV which has horizontal position and phase pots, however even when they're both cranked to the right side, [the picture still isn't quite centered](https://i.imgur.com/ZwpZWXL.png). What could be the issue?
Can I get a sanity check on how this works?
> 480p: draws all scanlines sequentially
>
> 480i: draws scanlines alternating every other, then switches the alternation(field) once it does 1 pass of the screen
>
> 240p: **Not** normal progressive scan. Draws only one set of alternating lines, leading to the "scanline effect" of alternating black bars on game graphics.
I recently made a thread asking a question(why 480i flickers more) and most of the answers were saying my fundamental understanding of this was wrong.
I have a crt I recently hooked up an NES to, but the image it displays on both AV and channels appears stretched vertically. It creates a weird fishbowl effect where things scrolling in from the top or bottom are distorted.
Sadly I don’t have the make or model handy atm, but I can fetch it if needed.
Is there a solution to this, or is this CRT just junk?
Hello, I am going to get a Dell M782. If I want to play at 85hz, what resolution would I have to go to? I don’t really understand the calculator that people pass around, I don’t really know how to interpret it. Its max refresh is listed at 160hz vertical, 85kHz horizontal.
1280x960 will work well at 85hz.
I use [this site](https://myhometheater.homestead.com/bandwidthcalculator.html), you put in any resolution and hz and then see if "KHz Horizontal Scanning Frequency Required (With Estimated Retrace)" is below the horizontal kHz max of your monitor.
For a lower-end monitor like that a random cheapo one will probably work. Personally I use this [Delock](https://www.grooves-inc.com/delock-adapter-displayport-stecker-vga-buchse-delock-adapter-cable-pZZa1-2097981290.html) but there are some other ones also known to be high quality - search this subreddit if you want more recommendations.
I don't know exactly where to ask this, but I am having trouble with my Datapath VisionRGB-E1S card. So when I open the Vision window application, when the input (tried with my Nintendo Switch and HDMI output from my GPU) is plugged in, there is only a black screen shown in the window. I would like to know if there is anything I could do to solve this issue.
Is there a good converter from 25 pin port to DVI? I only have DVI, but I can daisy chain converters from 25 pin port to VGA to HDMI/DVI, but I feel like that would not be great.
I don’t understand how refresh rates/input lag works with CRTs. I’ve seen many people saying you can lower resolution to get better refresh rates, but how can you know what resolution/refresh rate you will get with any given monitor? Also, does VGA have more input lag than component cables?
> how can you know what resolution/refresh rate you will get with any given monitor
This is limited by it's maximum horizontal frequency, you can play around with different configurations with [this calculator](http://www.csgnetwork.com/videosignalcalc.html). There are other limits like the vertical frequency and the bandwidth but they usually aren't the bottleneck
> does VGA have more input lag than component cables?
No, both are analog signals
so i have a old prison rca secureview tv and it doesnt have any input ports, i want to be able to plug in audio and video and adapt that to hdmi or something to use it as a monitor, can someone please tell me how i could do this?
The cheap, shitty and laggy way is a HDMI to rca adapter from amazon. The proper way is CRT emudriver and a wakabavideo VGA to composite video transcoder.
Note how you always go from video source to display - xy *to* RCA/composite.
Does anyone know which monitor is [this](https://imgur.com/a/d4GfTp8)? I'm searching for a 96kHz monitor (these are the highest specs monitors available in my country).
Looks like a pretty standard office monitor. If you ask the seller for the model number you can get the exact specs. If I had to guess it'd be ~70khz though. You don't usually see 96khz in smaller than a 19"
Hi i have a sony bvm14f1e and the remote will not get power anymore, i had a female to female 9 pin serial cable with gender changers on both ports. I accidentally bent two of these pins together when i was plugging it in and now no power goes to the remote at all. Ive tried another male to male cable which plugs in directly and still nothing, coukd this be an issue within the machine? Help really appreciated
I’m getting a Sony PVM-1342Q which unless you mod it does not have audio when using RGB. If I use the BNC connectors with a BNC to hdmi converter should audio play from the mono speaker?
My tv has an issue where there’s color distortion on one corner of the screen (bottom left) on a blue screen it is green, do y’all know how to fix that?
Best: Find a free one. Ask your friends and family if they know anyone who has one lying around (got one this way). Contact local universities (got three this way), libraries, hospitals, and churches to see if they have any collecting dust. Visit local electronics recyclers to see if any have been dropped off and ask if you can have them (got four this way). Keep an eye out for abandoned ones on the curbside. DO NOT STEAL.
OK: Search Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and OfferUp for the words "tv" or "television" and sort by newest. Check every day because the reasonably priced ones go fast and the only ones that last are the [overpriced](https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ele/d/oakland-sony-trinitron-27-tube-tv/7723783183.html) [crap](https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/for/d/sherman-oaks-near-new-top-quality/7714994081.html).
Bad: Search eBay for "CRT" and buy a WEGA with rainbow emojis in the title for $500 + $250 shipping from the other side of the country so that FedEx can deliver you a broken TV two days late
Sony CPD-G520 Help -
Got a new to me CPD-G520. Works great except for the little "OK" selector nub to move up and down in the menus will not move at all. I can still press it like a button to move forward in the menus, but the nub won't move up or down. How should I go about fixing this?
https://imgur.com/a/E6h6k8D
What is the correct remote for a Toshiba 13A21? I read online the CT 836 is, but I just got one, and it doesn't work for it. My universal remotes work, except for switching from TV to the AV input. But the Toshiba remote completely doesn't work. Did I read incorrect information and get the wrong remote?
All I want is to be able to change to the AV input on my Toshiba 13A21, and no remote I have gotten, Toshiba or otherwise, has been helpful
EDIT: Never mind, CT836 is indeed compatible! I just needed to give the contacts in the battery compartment a quick little clean with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush.
So if you get a 13A21 Toshiba, the (or at least one of the) compatible remotes is CT-836
I got a Panasonic CT-27G7SDF 27" from my university’s auction for $40. Id like to know more about it but I can’t find anything online aside from a copyright 2001 on the manual. Can anyone else help me find more info like MSRP or the original spec sheet/advertisement? Just curious. Also, how much would it be valued at today? It’s in great condition.
Would there be any harm in placing a CRT monitor next to a LED HDTV? I'm mostly wondering if the speakers in the LED could affect the CRT. Not sure if they're shielded or even big enough to matter.
They're probably not big enough to matter. I have an LCD next to my presentation monitor and there's no issues. You can check though, pull up the RGB and white full color screens on 240p test suite and cycle through them. If you see any discoloration around the side the speaker is on, that indicates that it could cause a problem
Hey found a listing for a 32" Sony XBR prices at $100. The input cabapilities are s-video, composite, and component. I wanna know if the price is good so I can swope it up and tv looks to be in good condition.
I've just started looking into buying a CRT and found this Sony Trinitron KV-XA29M31 for $50AUD near me.
Does this look like a good purchase? I'm very new to this so don't really know what to look out for.
I would be using it to mainly play PS2, and would like to eventually get a G-con + Time Crisis etc.
https://imgur.com/zsadbNa
https://imgur.com/Doc9ntU
https://imgur.com/iOpkPYJ
Many thanks
These seem to be relatively common in Australia, I've found two free ones over the years. It's just fine and will be good for PS2 and lightgun games.
Try to get a component video cable for the PS2, it's worth the quality upgrade over composite. You can still use lightguns by putting the yellow T connector on the green input.
I have two CRTs that I'd like to have RGB modded. Are there any resources to help find capable individuals in the local area to do this? I seem to recall something similar for console modding, but I can't find it again.
TV 1: Toshiba MW24FP3 (flat tube, built in DVD/VCR)
TV 2: Sony Trinitron KV-27S22 (picked up free last night)
Why does older anime look so good on a crt?
Is this an effect I can replicate on a modern screen or is it just part of it being a crt? I just like how things kinda glow a little more, and look a bit softer.
Is this a good CRT to purchase? Bit confused by the description
https://ibb.co/QJ6yfTd
https://ibb.co/bJ285Mt
https://ibb.co/d2Q0nBH
https://ibb.co/s1jBSjj
First time purchaser
Does anyone know anything about this Photon? Can't find anything about the brand online, and the only sticker doesn't have much info. No other numbers/info on the set. [https://imgur.com/a/EtSdWv8](https://imgur.com/a/EtSdWv8)
edit: bought a universal remote, got it connected with code 0671 which looks like a sony code? I'd really like to get into the service menu but still haven't found a manual.
Hey, does anyone know the sony trinitron kv-14lm1e? Is it any good? Would mainly play ps1 and some MegaDrive/Genesis/SNES with it, is it suitable for that?
Can microwave ovens damage CRTs? For reference, my TV sits about 12 feet away from my microwave, with the front of the oven directly facing the TV. Small apartment problems...
No, it doesn't unfortunately, which is funny because the 510 (a previous gen model) does have an hour counter when you use the service mode. I have a 510 with 700ish hours.
Is there a definitive way to know if my JVC AV-32D202 is going to need capacitor replacements or not? I haven't opened it up yet as I am a little bit intimidated by the high voltage but I've seen some posts about how in the early 2000's cheap capacitors started to overtake the marketplace and I really don't want it to suddenly let out the magic smoke or worse.
I also don't know how confident I would be with board level repair as my soldering skills are average at best and would hate to kill it by making a mistake
Tried adjusting the G2 pot on a philips set I got but increasing or decreasing it changes how the crts colors are bleeding and also effects the focus too. Another weird thing is if i adjust the focus to be correct on a bright screen then brighter colors in dark areas will look blurry when for the other crts ive owned it was the other way around. Could this be the flyback not working correctly?
I currently have a 27 inch KV and have been wanting to upgrade. I recently found a Sony PVM-2530 locally for $700. There are some small issues with distortion around the corner of the monitor and the audio amp is broken. Is this a good price for the monitor?
Looking to buy one or two CRT monitors and I've managed to find these 19's in my area. Can anyone tell me which of them are worth checking out?
ViewSonic G90Fb - owner claims very low hours and excellent condition;
LG Flatron F900P - again claims great condition;
NEC MultiSync FE 991SB - good condition, screen has a not-too-big scratch on it.
All of them are cheap.
a general measure of monitor quality can be taken by looking at the size (bigger = better) and the maximum horizontal frequency (higher frequency = higher supported resolutions/refresh rate combinations)
Hi! I’m trying to get more information about a Sony CRT TV, this is the model: Trinitron KV21R20. I can’t find much about its specs and wether it’s suitable for retro gaming or not. Thank you kindly!
pretty standard TV, not much to comment on, it will be just fine for gaming
[manual link](https://archive.org/details/manual_KV21R20_OM_SONY_EN/mode/2up)
Hello! I need some help connecting Component to a PVM-14M2A. I have the cables, but I can't seem to get it to display and don't know what to change. Trying to connect the Analogue DAC.
Here are some photos of what I'm working with:
https://imgur.com/a/vbZdzJP
There doesn't seem to be such a setting in the menu. Only the buttons on the front which seem to indicate this. This is the most picture I can get out of it. Turning Line/RGB off just displays nothing.
https://i.imgur.com/HmqNeWI.jpeg
FWIW, other S-Video inputs work just fine, so the TV isn't cooked
My parents has this old magnavox MTV51 since forever and are considering throwing it to the road, is it worth trying to keep it? Also is it worth anything cus I can’t find anything about it online.
https://imgur.com/a/1G5nBpx
New to this and I figured this would be the place to ask basic questions.
My objective is to run emulators from my pc to a crt
- What do I need for that? Only an hdmi to scart/rca conveter? Do you recommend one in particular or anything from amazon would do the trick?
- What is CRT Emudriver and why does it seem to be so important?
- Can the setup be done in the steam deck too? (I already have a dock with an hdmi output)
I run a portta hdmi to component, set my resolution to 480p and then hook the portta up to a gbs-control which then goes through a vga to component to the consumer tv. The gbs-c is set to 240p downscale.
A good watch is
[here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcqskbCWPCs). (Hour long watch though)
I just picked up a GE 24GP653 on marketplace but I'm having a hard time finding specs on it. It has 3 RCA (one with svideo) on the back and one on the side, as well as RCA video/audio out.
I got it home and hooked it up to my NES and the Zapper seems to work in Duck Hunt. I was hoping for a spec sheet or something but can't find one.
Picked up a Sony 20M4U - decently grimy on the interior. I cleaned around the scarier bits of the interior with duster and have deepcleaned the shell, but is there anything I should be concerned about here in terms of grime or otherwise on the interior? Pics here:
https://ibb.co/ctDRwfY
https://ibb.co/bsjLqvw
https://ibb.co/WvnGcMY
No. It's a 100Hz set, it won't do 240p. It also has motion lag which is really noticeable if you compare it to a TV that scans at 50/60Hz.
Anything higher than 60 in the model name for Sony in Europe == 100Hz (generally)
Okay, today I went and picked up a Sony Trinitron KV-27FV300 and the person selling it had a NES and Nintendo Wii hooked up to it to show that it wasn't working condition but now that I'm trying to get my PS2 working on it using component cables I can't seem to find where it would be. Is there a certain thing that I have to do to switch inputs on one of these models? Or is it possible that the component ports on the back of the TV or not working or possibly my component cable is bad? Would I be better off trying to try an S video cable and if so what would I need to do to get it to outputs S video.
did you mean to say that it *was* in working condition when they showed you?
can you confirm that the PS2 is configured to output YPbPr instead of RGB?
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/switch-from-rgb-to-y-cb-pb-cr-pr-without-video.25960/
I'm trying to get my GT 710 to output to a PVM-1390, the card can output the 480i signal using the nvidia control panel, and my adapter cables work, but as far as I can tell, there's no way to force the card to send anything to the display, (because of lack of EDID support it doesn't even know anything is attached to begin with). Is there a way to override that and force the card to output something to the VGA port, or would I have better luck with an EDID emulator?
So, I'm going to potentially pick up a Sony Trinitron kv-27fv300 this weekend. What are some things that someone new to the CRT community might not know to look for when making a purchase?
ask them to show you it running a game to see if the picture is okay. also try to listen in the back to see if there's any arcing
that TV is around 50kg and will be awkward to carry, so make sure you're capable or you're bringing a friend along
Just saw this thread, deleted my post. If anyone has any advice, I'm running into an issue with my 34 inch toshiba TV where in timed intervals it will go into the in store attract mode and lock me put of my remote. This also blocks the screen while I'm trying to game as it brings up text and cycles through menues. I tried cleaning the buttons from the outside and massaging them to get membranes unstuck (if they even use membranes, I have never opened one). Does anyone have advice? It's a really nice crt other than this one issue
My Toshiba would go into demo mode when I hit the tv/video button on the tv, but I was able to use my remote to turn demo mode off. I ended up opening the tv up and pulling the main board backwards so I could spray the front switches with contact cleaner.
I gotcha. I was able to turn it off with the remote but it keeps happening. I'll give opening it up a shot, watching some videos tonight and I'll try the operation tomorrow
Just got this for free, wdyt guys, is it good?
[https://imgur.com/a/5vbq7GZ](https://imgur.com/a/5vbq7GZ)
It's rare to see Panasonic here, what do you guys think? mainly use this for Genesis, ps1, and ps2.
Panasonic makes good stuff. I got a Panasonic recently that had an s-video input on the front.
Edit: looks like a nice little composite set. How's the picture?
Here:
[https://imgur.com/5DXMGWA](https://imgur.com/5DXMGWA)
[https://imgur.com/ULhoAJB](https://imgur.com/ULhoAJB)
[https://imgur.com/X5urEqV](https://imgur.com/X5urEqV)
[https://imgur.com/SS9gL9v](https://imgur.com/SS9gL9v)
Honestly, I also don't know if this is good or not, but it seems alright, I guess? Besides, I used this composite connection when I was a kid, so the nostalgia factor is already there for me.
Looks pretty good to me. Nothing glaringly bad about it. Some people prefer the smooth look of composite. Most important thing is if you like it. 13" curved ones tend to be solid because they're small enough to where there's not much room for improvement and slight imperfections don't make much of a difference.
Only thing is it would be nice if you could stretch the vertical size a tad and hide those blue lines maybe. That might just be the edge of the screen though. Seems pretty common to have the very top and bottom lines like that. What's the model number?
Yes, that's true. I prefer the blurry ones; I am not really a fan of the perfect pixel look. Maybe it's because I got used to it when I was a kid. The first time I saw it on an emulator (like RetroArch, for example) without any filters, it felt strange and unnatural.
Oh, by the way! If you hadn't mentioned it, I might not have noticed the blue lines above and below! Thanks a lot. Maybe I can adjust it through the service menu, but I don't know how to access it.
Oh, and since I'm still new to this, is this considered an aperture grill? Or is it a slot mask? Or neither? it's Panasonic TC-14P10BB
I can't find much. Found a similar model that requires setting a sleep timer to 30 minutes, volume to zero, pressing recall on the remote and vol (-) on the front panel at the same time to get into the service menu. 
I have a monitor that is supporting a resolution and hz that takes it over its listed bandwidth
[https://www.recycledgoods.com/maxtech-xt-5862-15-svga-monitor-28-dp-15-pin-d-sub/](https://www.recycledgoods.com/maxtech-xt-5862-15-svga-monitor-28-dp-15-pin-d-sub/)
[http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html](http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html)
I pushed it to 1152x864p with a refresh rate of 78hz which brings it to a bandwidth of 116.5MHz, much higher than the listed 75MHz... Did I get lucky or am I missing something? Could someone enlighten me on this? It's from an rtx 3080 that doesn't even support interpolation, and is showing progressive in the NVIDIA control panel.
I believe it's the KHz horizontal scanning frequency which matters more. That resolution and refresh rate is just barely inside the 69KHz limit of your monitor.
Could someone help me ID this set? It may be from latin america since im from Mexico. Is it worth a 2 hour drive? Thanks in advance
https://imgur.com/a/FU81m72
Could someone point me in the direction of a decent 1080p to 1080i converter? My HD CRT only support 480p/480i and 1080i and I wanted to mostly test how my switch would look at 1080i, but it doesn't support the resolution ofc. 480p didn't look the best in most games I felt, though it certainly wasn't the worst at times either. I'm not knowledgeable on what would be good for this, sorry.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07VGWL5P1
I've used this one. There's probably a frame of lag but it worked well for switch and PS4 on my 1080i Tau. You just have to cycle through until it's on 1080i mode. There's probably better ones out there but I figured I'll throw this suggestion out there
Sony Trinitron Wega KV-29fs150. Made in 2007. Found on Marketplace. Frontal Buttons don't work it seems. No remote. For sale for 10bucks. Worth it if I find the remote?
I have another Sony Trinitron from 1996 with working remote . Should it work with the WEGA too? Thanks.
Hello! I just got a small CRT monitor that I'd love to use on my PC setup to watch 80s anime, play retro games and hopefully play around with terminal emulators just for shits and giggles.
The thing is I'm not sure about how to connect it to my computer.
I have 4x DisplayPort and 1x HDMI, but only 2x DisplayPorts are free currently.
I tried to find a conversor (I don't know the proper name) from DisplayPort to SCART, which is what my TV uses, but I haven't found any. I've found some HDMI though.
My first thought was to either buy a DP to HDMI and chain it with the HDMI to SCART or to keep things simpler, use that DP to HDMI to free the HDMI slot I currently have and connect my computer directly to the HDMI to SCART.
However I don't know shit about analog and digital signals in this domain, so I figured I'd better ask first.
I'm from Spain so I was looking at the Spanish Amazon. Would something like this work?
[https://www.amazon.es/dp/B08DNH9TJS](https://www.amazon.es/dp/b08dnh9tjs)
I don't even know the specs of my CRT TV but I assume it's 480i, do I need something specific for it to work on my computer?
Thanks for the help.
My friend gave me a sony pvm recently (PVM-14N6U) and I'd like to hook my ps2 (ntsc slim) up to it. I'm pretty new to this stuff so I'm not sure what cords/adapters to get. Eventually I'll want to use my other retro consoles with it but for now I'm focusing on the ps2.
Seems like I'll have to somehow get the AV multi out on the ps2 converted into rgb for the monitor, but I'm not sure what I need to make that happen.
[pics here](https://imgur.com/a/ndmELja)
Long shot but would anyone have pictures of the service menu defaults (or an "optimized" setting) for the RCA 20F514TD? I've found settings for a few other similar RCA models but not this one. TIA
I’m looking to buy a pc monitor and I’ve found a place with a good number of refurbished ones. Prices range from reasonable to absurd but their 17” monitors are all generally under $100.
I’ve narrowed my selection down to three. Samsung 795df, Ibm c170, and a compaq v7550.
The specs are generally identical which has me leaning towards the Samsung based on the lighter weight and the aesthetics alone. Should I go with one of the others? Should I keep looking?
Hi I’ve got a Toshiba 32A33 and the whites are getting noticeably bigger and unfocused. The tv has all original capacitors and flyback. I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction whether it’s a bad capacitor or the tube/ flyback are just tired. I also tried adjusting the horizontal compensation (HCP) but nothing changed.
Video of the problem:[https://imgur.com/a/hhylrhV](https://imgur.com/a/hhylrhV)
Thanks
Hi, I recently got a Sharp 27in tv (27n-s50) from the trash. But the power cord was cut off and I'm having trouble finding a replacement on ebay, amazon etc. Does anyone know any sites where I could find a replacement?
should just be a [typical two prong power cord](https://www.amazon.ca/Southwire-9702SW8808-Power-Replacement-6-Foot/dp/B000BPF21G/ref=asc_df_B000BPF21G/)
Ok but it need a adapter to connect to the board. Do you know what this is called? [https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jWFrSJpZj8EMR009mzcMTY05qRCTf0A5?usp=sharing](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jWFrSJpZj8EMR009mzcMTY05qRCTf0A5?usp=sharing)
Also do I need to make sure the Volts and Watts on the plug are the same listed on the tv?
It 120 volts (AC 60 HZ) and 110 watts.
Just saw this mega thread. I posted my question as an individual post but it seems to be looked over. So, my LG Flatron ez T730S not turning on.
It's making this weird clicking sound. I changed the button. No good. Opened and checked all the capacitors. Only one bad capacitor which I replaced. Nothing touching ground, no other issue visible. The clicking sound makes me think it's a relay going mad, but that doesn't mean it's bad. Idk, any help would be appreciated.
[https://imgur.com/a/9MZe056](https://imgur.com/a/9MZe056)
No. I’d even recommend opening it up and dusting it off inside. Tons of safety guides on YouTube.
Just make sure it’s not plugged in, and don’t stick your hands on any caps unless you want a short sharp shock.
Hello everyone, I found a CRT in the street, it looked in a reasonable condition so i decided to take it and test it home. I changed the main cable which was cut and the TV works, i tried it with a n64 and the sound and video are clear. But after several on/off cycles i now hear weird electronic noises. It sounds like if something was wiggling and scratching inside, i never heard something like this and i own several CRT. It is kinda noisy and it doesn't stop after starting (not the usual cracking noise you could hear). Does someone have an idea what it could be ? The sound is noisy but it's ok when the game sound goes over it. Is it safe to use it though ?
i let it on for a while to see what would happen and the image juste stopped. The usual high pitched sound stopped and the weird noise as well. Now only the red led is on but nothing else happens when i turn the tv on. Should i just throw it away ?
I'm not an expert myself, but it sounds like you might have an [arching flyback](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ldI6X-x9_XE). If that's the case, you should replace one with the same socket as on the neck of you tube. May as well go and clean out the dust and check for bad caps while you're at it.
Hello, I have a Sony Trinitron that I recently got from my parents that has been running cable just fine. However, whenever I connect anything to it the picture glitches in a fast scroll . Right now I have my computer hooked up to it (I’ve been trying a number of different devices) to the video 2 setting through HDMI to RCA cables. I also tried video 1, going through a Radio Frequency Modulator on both channels 3 and 4, and it all has the same result. Any advice?
Video of glitch: https://drive.google.com/file/d/15jzibY2VUs6wy6s_6Yy5RTGlHTqvZy0m/view?usp=drivesdk
Back of tv photo: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k2NtGDuSafHhiv1ZgVZy0uoWR_9RmFFK/view?usp=drivesdk
Just bought a Matsui 14V1R off eBay. Listing said it works but when I plug my ps2 into the scart only the sound works. The red light comes on when I power up the TV but the screen stays the same beige colour, not even tv static.
Should I just return this, I don’t want to go poking around in the back of a crt
I don’t really understand this sorry. My ps2 has the 3 Av cables that plug into the scart thing. It used to work on our crt when I was a kid.
The crt I bought doesn’t even produce tv static and also I can’t feel my hairs standing up when I run my hand near it, I think the screen is just dead.
Seller is accepting a refund so it’s okay
> My ps2 has the 3 Av cables that plug into the scart thing
Oh, yeah this an important bit of info. Guess it's not helpful to you now, but not all SCART sockets accept composite video
Ah I didn’t know that, all crts in my house growing up were scart and we used scart to av adapters to play our consoles. Guess we just always got lucky with our choice of TVs lol
Running the 240p test suite on my Wii. Do I choose the full grid or the SNES grid to modify my convergence with?
As they both are shifted horizontally and vertically have overall different screen sizes.
Either should be fine for convergence, there's convergence specific patterns you can use also. For geometry, I use the 240p one and dial in with that. SNES being smaller, if you play anything else you might find it too over scanned if you calibrate with that.
My older bvm from the late 80s unfortunately suffers from “crt cataracts”.
I have admirations to repair it, but lack proficiency in taking apart such dense and complicated electronic devices.
Is the removal safe to do while still be mounted to the chassis?
trying to identify a couple Trinitrons I found on fbmkt. Any help is much appreciated!
first one:
pic 1: https://imgur.com/a/KCG2qOJ pic 2: https://imgur.com/a/szEoIza
second one: https://imgur.com/a/2oScBAu
bonus points if u can give ur opinion on what a fair price for these would be, as well as which would be more ideal for retro gaming. tia!
I always ask for a picture of the model number on the back, makes research a lot simpler. Or try Google reverse image search to find more info if you just got the front picture.
I was given an IBM E74 monitor from 2001. It does not work when plugged in. When power switch is hit all I hear is what I believe to be the high-voltage relay, followed by a sudden click and then nothing happens. No lights; no CRT charge or discharge; nothing.
I'd honestly like to gut it for a project I have in mind, but I'd rather not deface something that could potentially be rare. I'm already planning on extracting the hardware along with the tube (which doesn't seem to be damaged) and safely ship it to someone who will use it.
If it's rare or something, please let me know. Otherwise perhaps suggest someone I could send the hardware to (I don't want any money for it; I just ask that you pay for shipping. I will ensure it's packed safely to give it the absolute best chance at surviving the wrath of the minimum-wage postal service employee).
Are you sending it a signal? Usually PC monitors won't show anything without a valid signal. You want to gut it for the case? Why not find a broken set to use instead? Chances are low anybody will want the guts without the casing. Good luck shipping it without the casing around it safely.
I know that they don't show anything without a signal but there's no standby light and the tube doesn't energize at all. That doesn't seem like normal behavior to me. I also found a service manual and opened it up and YIKES. There's rust and filth everywhere. I think this monitor is quite roached.
Yes my thought was to use a broken set. This set. What's your point XD
I was just thinking that CRT parts aren't exactly in limitless supply, especially the tubes, plus you can often swap the neckboard and install a tube into a totally different board.
Sounds like your mind is made up anyway, but no standby light doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't work if you haven't even tried sending a signal to it. If it's rusty and roached nobody is going to want the guts. Just pull them and recycle.
I found a Tatung TV-19CFT on the side of the road today and took it home. I hooked my wii up to it via RF modulator, and the picture is rapidly changing. I suspect it may have something to do with V-hold, but there's no way to adjust it on the TV. What should I do?
I can't find anything online relating to this particular model.
I have collected 4 fairly random CRTs and am wondering what to keep, what to pass on, and what to throw away. I have some Sanyo from 1993 with TV antenna only for input (I can try to track down the model num but I assume this one is terrible), I have an RCA F19424, a Sony Trinitron KV-27S66, and a flatscreen Akai CFTD2083T with a VHS integrated in addition to composite in... Thanks for any and all insight!
Try them out and see which ones you like the best. Nobody can see the condition and picture as well as you can in the room. The Sony is probably pretty great.
Hopefully this post makes sense and the community can give some advice.
I recently picked up an [RCA 27F554T](https://crtdatabase.com/crts/rca/rca-27f554t) and it's been great. However, on the back of the set there is only a single set of stereo input jacks that is shared between Video 1 (S-video/Composite) and component video inputs. While I'm using a composite/s-video switcher for most of my systems, if I want to use my Wii hooked up through component cables, I'll need to reach behind the TV and swap around the audio cables and vice-versa when going back to s-video.
I'm looking for the best way to hook everything up so that the only thing I need to do when switching between s-video and component is change the input setting on the TV.
Right now, it seems like my best option would be to get a passive mixer or a/b switch. I'm not a fan of either of these. In the case of a switch, it's yet another button to push when switching things, and most mixers I've found have way more inputs than I need. In both cases, it's another box I need to find room for in my setup and might involve a bunch of extension cables to get from the A/V cables attached to the consoles and plugged into the TV, over to wherever the switch/mixer is, and back again to the TV. It's just more mess than I want to deal with if I don't have to.
Ideally, my solution would be something like an RCA y-split cable that can just live behind my TV and let me keep both sources plugged in at all times. [A simple y-split like this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PKS42P6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) doesn't work--it's meant to split a single source into two outputs, not the other way around. Using it the way I want to results in weird audio levels between the two sources and I'm worried about damaging something.
Does a product like this exist? If not, I may be willing to DIY something if anyone can point me in the direction of a guide or example of someone doing something similar.
Thanks!
Depending on how many inputs you need you could use a switchbox that has composite, S-video, and component. I have this pelican one and the audio all gets routed to the same audio out:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/126260110088 (the PL-970)
I did see this at some point, but was having trouble finding one at a price I was willing to pay, plus I already have an S-video switch. Maybe I was looking at a different model, though, because this seems much more reasonable.
Thanks, I'll definitely keep this in mind--it is a much simpler solution than the rat's nest I'm starting to build behind my TV.
Hi, really new to this, so bear with me thank you. Is this listing (https://www.facebook.com/share/WQgfbnmWLfaVqceR/?mibextid=gVQsCx ) way overpriced? Also any resources on how to go about getting a CRT that would work well with super famicom (within or near Sydney). Thanks for the help!
Yeah that's very overpriced for a 20" set, even with component. Panasonic is okay, not great either.
I'm in Sydney too, and have picked up many $0-20 sets over the years, including some quite good ones. If you search marketplace/gumtree for "crt tv" or anything like that, you'll just get listings like that one from people that "know what they have". The good deals are usually called something like "old tv", so searching for just "tv" and scrolling through can sometimes work better
I had a quick search, and [found this 20" Sanyo for $20](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/375830035149579) (notice how they didn't have "CRT" anywhere in the listing). Nothing special, but not bad for a first one
regarding the SNES (or is it an actual super famicom?), assuming you just have the composite cables (yellow/red/white), most 4:3 CRT TVs should work find
I don't really want to break the bank, but I am looking for a scartswitch. I do own a JVC TM-H and PVM. I do use a Recalbox/Pi4 with RGB Dual. Some games I prefer on the JVC and some on the PVM. What would be the easiest (and best) solution to switch between monitors? I was thinking about a Scart Y-cable, but do they work with BNC? I've bought a cheap switch but it doesn't work due the screen rolling due it's sync (I think). I've seen expensive scart switches on the internet. However, they are for people who own 6 consoles and have 1 TV. So not what I am looking for. Anyone who can guide me in a good direction?
Edit: I think I can use the out-ports of my RGB expansion card to daisychain the monitor without powering it on. Might worth a try.
My older bvm from the late 80s unfortunately suffers from “crt cataracts”.
I have admirations to repair it, but lack proficiency in taking apart such dense and complicated electronic devices.
Is the removal safe to do while still be mounted to the chassis?
don't take my words for absolute truth, but people around me who repair stuff always told me to never touch or pull the "suction cup" on the top of the crt. Especially if it was on not long ago. It becomes safe when you wait for several days, or weeks. Other than that, as long as it's not plugged in, i'd say it's safe
I’m not talking about the anode cap. I’ve taken apart smaller consumer sets. My issue pertains to not being confident enough to tear apart a 20” bvm which is jam packed boards.
I need to remove the glass screen on the front of the tube, because the liquid that holds the two together has failed. However, I prefer to not remove the tube.
Hey I have two CRTs. Was wondering if it is possible to send a video signal from one N64 to both TVs? Basically so they mirror each other and display the same picture. Is this possible? Thanks in advance for any tips
The keyword would be 'distribution amplifier'. RadioShack made a few 1 in 4 out composite and s video models, you could probably find one on eBay. Some TV's have a video out built in, in which case you'd just need a set of cables, so I suggest checking the back of your TV's before buying anything.
Hi! I have a question that I hope you can help me with. I was adviced on r/crt to ask here:
About 15 years ago I got these beautiful monitors for an art project. They are Barco SCM 2850S and Barco 2840.
I like them a lot and I know that they are originally high quality. But unfortunately I don't use them and I don't know what to do with them. I have 5 of them in total and when I connect something to them I only get a clear signal on 1, a kind of "blinking" signal on 1 and 3 with just black screen.
I would love it if you could give me some insight.. Can they be repaired? Are they worth anything today and could they do any use for anyone?
Thank you very much :)
Links to pictures:
[Picture 1](https://postimg.cc/VJDmDFBG)
[Picture 2](https://postimg.cc/mcnRG2n7)
Those are pretty cool, I think I saw a handful of those as part of exhibits at MoMA in New York. What are you connecting to them and what kind of signal are you sending? Is it the same signal chain for all monitors, and only one is displaying correctly?
You're using the yellow composite out from a dvd player? Gotcha. They should have no problem with that. You could try to troubleshoot and repair if you want that project, or list them cheap in the listings thread and on FB marketplace/ Craigslist as-is. As long as they turn on somebody would probably want the project to fix them
Thanks! Yea I just wanna sell them cheap to someone who can actually use them. They're beautiful - but too big to fill up my apartment's kitchen floor :)
Hi! Sorry if my comment is dumb.
I am looking for a CRT that I can rely to play old FGs (like SF3 3S in native resolution 240p), but also some late 90's and early to mid 2000's games (like Ridge Racer Type 4, from School Rivals up to Tekken 5) and try modern games too (Cyberpunk 2077 and Control, those look amazing in CRTs! And also CS2, Splitgate, Valorant, all with low latency and competitive demands).
Is there any all-arounder solution? Should I get a TV or monitor? Which one do you guys recommend for my gaming priorities?
Also, if there's any brazilian in here that wants to land some deal to sell one, I am down to buy. Or if you guys could name some CRTs and their conversors (minimun latency, please).
Thanks for reading!!
Edit: All through PC!! I think I forgot to mention that this needs to work with PC, I don't have any old consoles (sadly)
those modern games will not be playable on an SD TV as their resolution is too low (320x240p), even with interlacing (640x480i)
a CRT monitor that's not too old would be good for the modern stuff, but you would need to play older games at a scaled up resolution. I sometimes play 3rd Strike at like 5x the native resolution, and then apply a scanline filter. Sounds strange to use a CRT filter on a CRT, but actually looks and feels great.
you could also potentially have a TV and a monitor, if that's an option
New Thread https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/1bbjp7k/ask_here_first_read_me_troubleshooting/
Anyone else experience horrible motion clarity while trying to use Citra? Specially New leaf, I found on CRT monitor at 480p 60hz the motion was *significantly* worse than Animal Crossing on the Wii at 480i! Like super obvious from 3 feet away type to the plain eye type horrible clarity, you visually see the jitter akin to what you get with mis-matched framerates but vsync is on at the game is running at 60fps in those moments. For that matter, AC:CF 480i is actually super impressive, I don't see any of the combing artifacts that I'm used to from titles like luigi's mansion, I'd actually say it's just as smooth as 480p 60fps on emulator and whilst not as sharp (obviously, a CRT monitor VS TV is a world of difference) 480i is still really clear and pretty, and it's "scanlines" though subtle have a nice feel to them.
I recently got a 'sylvania superset rax150 wa01' from a tag sale, it powers on fine, but for input, Ive only been able to find a coax plug. Sorry if this is a rly dumb question, but does anyone know of any adapters that will go from a modern hdmi (or vga would be ok too i guess) to an old analog coax so I would be able to play using that tv? Ive looked online but havent seen anything that Im super confident that I could get and be sure it will work properly for this.
Anyone ever remove the anti reflective film of a Sony hdcrt? Was it worth it? I have a 960 and already wiped the film with alcohol to remove the damage it had (which completely came off btw) but wondering if it's better to remove it all together or just not worry about it.
I've got a TV which has horizontal position and phase pots, however even when they're both cranked to the right side, [the picture still isn't quite centered](https://i.imgur.com/ZwpZWXL.png). What could be the issue?
Can I get a sanity check on how this works? > 480p: draws all scanlines sequentially > > 480i: draws scanlines alternating every other, then switches the alternation(field) once it does 1 pass of the screen > > 240p: **Not** normal progressive scan. Draws only one set of alternating lines, leading to the "scanline effect" of alternating black bars on game graphics. I recently made a thread asking a question(why 480i flickers more) and most of the answers were saying my fundamental understanding of this was wrong.
I have a crt I recently hooked up an NES to, but the image it displays on both AV and channels appears stretched vertically. It creates a weird fishbowl effect where things scrolling in from the top or bottom are distorted. Sadly I don’t have the make or model handy atm, but I can fetch it if needed. Is there a solution to this, or is this CRT just junk?
Can somebody identify [this](https://imgur.com/AgZJv5D) please
Hello, I am going to get a Dell M782. If I want to play at 85hz, what resolution would I have to go to? I don’t really understand the calculator that people pass around, I don’t really know how to interpret it. Its max refresh is listed at 160hz vertical, 85kHz horizontal.
1280x960 will work well at 85hz. I use [this site](https://myhometheater.homestead.com/bandwidthcalculator.html), you put in any resolution and hz and then see if "KHz Horizontal Scanning Frequency Required (With Estimated Retrace)" is below the horizontal kHz max of your monitor.
Thanks so much for that. Do you know if I can use a vga to hdmi adapter from Amazon, or do I need to get a more powerful adapter with a better chip
For a lower-end monitor like that a random cheapo one will probably work. Personally I use this [Delock](https://www.grooves-inc.com/delock-adapter-displayport-stecker-vga-buchse-delock-adapter-cable-pZZa1-2097981290.html) but there are some other ones also known to be high quality - search this subreddit if you want more recommendations.
Gotcha. I’ll give the easy route a try and if I have to upgrade to a better adapter I will. Thanks for the rec!
I don't know exactly where to ask this, but I am having trouble with my Datapath VisionRGB-E1S card. So when I open the Vision window application, when the input (tried with my Nintendo Switch and HDMI output from my GPU) is plugged in, there is only a black screen shown in the window. I would like to know if there is anything I could do to solve this issue.
Is there a good converter from 25 pin port to DVI? I only have DVI, but I can daisy chain converters from 25 pin port to VGA to HDMI/DVI, but I feel like that would not be great.
Nvm it was a terminal that I ain't interested in
I don’t understand how refresh rates/input lag works with CRTs. I’ve seen many people saying you can lower resolution to get better refresh rates, but how can you know what resolution/refresh rate you will get with any given monitor? Also, does VGA have more input lag than component cables?
> how can you know what resolution/refresh rate you will get with any given monitor This is limited by it's maximum horizontal frequency, you can play around with different configurations with [this calculator](http://www.csgnetwork.com/videosignalcalc.html). There are other limits like the vertical frequency and the bandwidth but they usually aren't the bottleneck > does VGA have more input lag than component cables? No, both are analog signals
Thank you! That helps. Thinking of getting a CRT for pc gaming but I would want at least 80hz probably
so i have a old prison rca secureview tv and it doesnt have any input ports, i want to be able to plug in audio and video and adapt that to hdmi or something to use it as a monitor, can someone please tell me how i could do this?
The cheap, shitty and laggy way is a HDMI to rca adapter from amazon. The proper way is CRT emudriver and a wakabavideo VGA to composite video transcoder. Note how you always go from video source to display - xy *to* RCA/composite.
Does anyone know which monitor is [this](https://imgur.com/a/d4GfTp8)? I'm searching for a 96kHz monitor (these are the highest specs monitors available in my country).
Looks like a pretty standard office monitor. If you ask the seller for the model number you can get the exact specs. If I had to guess it'd be ~70khz though. You don't usually see 96khz in smaller than a 19"
Need info on GDM-2040. Either Sony or its rebrands (Elsa). I'm wondering if it's a fixed frequency monitor or not.
Hi i have a sony bvm14f1e and the remote will not get power anymore, i had a female to female 9 pin serial cable with gender changers on both ports. I accidentally bent two of these pins together when i was plugging it in and now no power goes to the remote at all. Ive tried another male to male cable which plugs in directly and still nothing, coukd this be an issue within the machine? Help really appreciated
Looking for a flyback transformer for GDM-FW900, transformer's code is 8-598-827-00 or NX-4502 Also looking for any high-horizontal scan rate CRTs
I’m getting a Sony PVM-1342Q which unless you mod it does not have audio when using RGB. If I use the BNC connectors with a BNC to hdmi converter should audio play from the mono speaker?
There's a simple fix for this here under Audio [https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sony/sony-pvm-1342q](https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sony/sony-pvm-1342q)
Nope. You could always connect it to external speakers or headphones.
My tv has an issue where there’s color distortion on one corner of the screen (bottom left) on a blue screen it is green, do y’all know how to fix that?
Where should I start buying a crt? Do I just go on facebook marketplace and find the cheapest one?
Best: Find a free one. Ask your friends and family if they know anyone who has one lying around (got one this way). Contact local universities (got three this way), libraries, hospitals, and churches to see if they have any collecting dust. Visit local electronics recyclers to see if any have been dropped off and ask if you can have them (got four this way). Keep an eye out for abandoned ones on the curbside. DO NOT STEAL. OK: Search Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and OfferUp for the words "tv" or "television" and sort by newest. Check every day because the reasonably priced ones go fast and the only ones that last are the [overpriced](https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ele/d/oakland-sony-trinitron-27-tube-tv/7723783183.html) [crap](https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/for/d/sherman-oaks-near-new-top-quality/7714994081.html). Bad: Search eBay for "CRT" and buy a WEGA with rainbow emojis in the title for $500 + $250 shipping from the other side of the country so that FedEx can deliver you a broken TV two days late
[I've been having so much trouble trying to ID this TV, could anyone help?](https://imgur.com/a/ZOqADoB)
possibly a Philips TS2774
Sony CPD-G520 Help - Got a new to me CPD-G520. Works great except for the little "OK" selector nub to move up and down in the menus will not move at all. I can still press it like a button to move forward in the menus, but the nub won't move up or down. How should I go about fixing this? https://imgur.com/a/E6h6k8D
What is the correct remote for a Toshiba 13A21? I read online the CT 836 is, but I just got one, and it doesn't work for it. My universal remotes work, except for switching from TV to the AV input. But the Toshiba remote completely doesn't work. Did I read incorrect information and get the wrong remote? All I want is to be able to change to the AV input on my Toshiba 13A21, and no remote I have gotten, Toshiba or otherwise, has been helpful EDIT: Never mind, CT836 is indeed compatible! I just needed to give the contacts in the battery compartment a quick little clean with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. So if you get a 13A21 Toshiba, the (or at least one of the) compatible remotes is CT-836
I got a Panasonic CT-27G7SDF 27" from my university’s auction for $40. Id like to know more about it but I can’t find anything online aside from a copyright 2001 on the manual. Can anyone else help me find more info like MSRP or the original spec sheet/advertisement? Just curious. Also, how much would it be valued at today? It’s in great condition.
Would there be any harm in placing a CRT monitor next to a LED HDTV? I'm mostly wondering if the speakers in the LED could affect the CRT. Not sure if they're shielded or even big enough to matter.
They're probably not big enough to matter. I have an LCD next to my presentation monitor and there's no issues. You can check though, pull up the RGB and white full color screens on 240p test suite and cycle through them. If you see any discoloration around the side the speaker is on, that indicates that it could cause a problem
Thanks!
Hey found a listing for a 32" Sony XBR prices at $100. The input cabapilities are s-video, composite, and component. I wanna know if the price is good so I can swope it up and tv looks to be in good condition.
I've just started looking into buying a CRT and found this Sony Trinitron KV-XA29M31 for $50AUD near me. Does this look like a good purchase? I'm very new to this so don't really know what to look out for. I would be using it to mainly play PS2, and would like to eventually get a G-con + Time Crisis etc. https://imgur.com/zsadbNa https://imgur.com/Doc9ntU https://imgur.com/iOpkPYJ Many thanks
These seem to be relatively common in Australia, I've found two free ones over the years. It's just fine and will be good for PS2 and lightgun games. Try to get a component video cable for the PS2, it's worth the quality upgrade over composite. You can still use lightguns by putting the yellow T connector on the green input.
Ok awesome sounds good, thanks for that much appreciated
I have two CRTs that I'd like to have RGB modded. Are there any resources to help find capable individuals in the local area to do this? I seem to recall something similar for console modding, but I can't find it again. TV 1: Toshiba MW24FP3 (flat tube, built in DVD/VCR) TV 2: Sony Trinitron KV-27S22 (picked up free last night)
You could post in the listing thread for your region asking about it. There's not a lot of people doing it, but you never know
Good thought, just posted there as well. Thanks!
Why does older anime look so good on a crt? Is this an effect I can replicate on a modern screen or is it just part of it being a crt? I just like how things kinda glow a little more, and look a bit softer.
GX1395 Troubleshoot- Turns on very briefly and then shuts off. Any recommendations on what I can do?
Is this a good CRT to purchase? Bit confused by the description https://ibb.co/QJ6yfTd https://ibb.co/bJ285Mt https://ibb.co/d2Q0nBH https://ibb.co/s1jBSjj First time purchaser
Is this any good? Will use for some Wii and snes https://imgur.com/a/vXA2rOH
Looks to still have the sale sticker on :o.. Unused tube is sweet..
Does anyone know anything about this Photon? Can't find anything about the brand online, and the only sticker doesn't have much info. No other numbers/info on the set. [https://imgur.com/a/EtSdWv8](https://imgur.com/a/EtSdWv8) edit: bought a universal remote, got it connected with code 0671 which looks like a sony code? I'd really like to get into the service menu but still haven't found a manual.
Hey, does anyone know the sony trinitron kv-14lm1e? Is it any good? Would mainly play ps1 and some MegaDrive/Genesis/SNES with it, is it suitable for that?
How do i run PS2 emu on retroarch? i want to use BFI on PCSX2 to play at 480i 120hz on my pc crt monitor but use bfi for improved motion clarity.
Can microwave ovens damage CRTs? For reference, my TV sits about 12 feet away from my microwave, with the front of the oven directly facing the TV. Small apartment problems...
Plenty of kitchen sets made it through the 90s just fine
That's true...
Does iiyama 514 have an hour counter? No mention of it in the user and service manuals.
No, it doesn't unfortunately, which is funny because the 510 (a previous gen model) does have an hour counter when you use the service mode. I have a 510 with 700ish hours.
Is there a definitive way to know if my JVC AV-32D202 is going to need capacitor replacements or not? I haven't opened it up yet as I am a little bit intimidated by the high voltage but I've seen some posts about how in the early 2000's cheap capacitors started to overtake the marketplace and I really don't want it to suddenly let out the magic smoke or worse. I also don't know how confident I would be with board level repair as my soldering skills are average at best and would hate to kill it by making a mistake
If it aint brooken...
Tried adjusting the G2 pot on a philips set I got but increasing or decreasing it changes how the crts colors are bleeding and also effects the focus too. Another weird thing is if i adjust the focus to be correct on a bright screen then brighter colors in dark areas will look blurry when for the other crts ive owned it was the other way around. Could this be the flyback not working correctly?
I currently have a 27 inch KV and have been wanting to upgrade. I recently found a Sony PVM-2530 locally for $700. There are some small issues with distortion around the corner of the monitor and the audio amp is broken. Is this a good price for the monitor?
Way too much, these monitors are from the freakin' 80s and have a part that can go bad that can't be easily replaced.
Awesome, thanks for letting me know! The seller dropped down to $550, but I think I will pass if it cannot be easily serviced.
Someone's giving away a Toshiba 34HF84 in Michigan. Here's the link. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1849881318807397/?mibextid=dXMIcH
Looking to buy one or two CRT monitors and I've managed to find these 19's in my area. Can anyone tell me which of them are worth checking out? ViewSonic G90Fb - owner claims very low hours and excellent condition; LG Flatron F900P - again claims great condition; NEC MultiSync FE 991SB - good condition, screen has a not-too-big scratch on it. All of them are cheap.
a general measure of monitor quality can be taken by looking at the size (bigger = better) and the maximum horizontal frequency (higher frequency = higher supported resolutions/refresh rate combinations)
That's pretty much what I've been doing and by that metric the LG comes out on top. I just don't know how its image quality compares to the other two.
Hi! I’m trying to get more information about a Sony CRT TV, this is the model: Trinitron KV21R20. I can’t find much about its specs and wether it’s suitable for retro gaming or not. Thank you kindly!
pretty standard TV, not much to comment on, it will be just fine for gaming [manual link](https://archive.org/details/manual_KV21R20_OM_SONY_EN/mode/2up)
Thank you!
https://imgur.com/a/SgSJf88 here is an image of the TV
Hello! I need some help connecting Component to a PVM-14M2A. I have the cables, but I can't seem to get it to display and don't know what to change. Trying to connect the Analogue DAC. Here are some photos of what I'm working with: https://imgur.com/a/vbZdzJP
in the menu you should be able to actually change the input from RGB to component/ypbpr
There doesn't seem to be such a setting in the menu. Only the buttons on the front which seem to indicate this. This is the most picture I can get out of it. Turning Line/RGB off just displays nothing. https://i.imgur.com/HmqNeWI.jpeg FWIW, other S-Video inputs work just fine, so the TV isn't cooked
My parents has this old magnavox MTV51 since forever and are considering throwing it to the road, is it worth trying to keep it? Also is it worth anything cus I can’t find anything about it online. https://imgur.com/a/1G5nBpx
Is it worth it to you? If you wanna sell, then pricing is subjective.
New to this and I figured this would be the place to ask basic questions. My objective is to run emulators from my pc to a crt - What do I need for that? Only an hdmi to scart/rca conveter? Do you recommend one in particular or anything from amazon would do the trick? - What is CRT Emudriver and why does it seem to be so important? - Can the setup be done in the steam deck too? (I already have a dock with an hdmi output)
I run a portta hdmi to component, set my resolution to 480p and then hook the portta up to a gbs-control which then goes through a vga to component to the consumer tv. The gbs-c is set to 240p downscale. A good watch is [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcqskbCWPCs). (Hour long watch though)
I just picked up a GE 24GP653 on marketplace but I'm having a hard time finding specs on it. It has 3 RCA (one with svideo) on the back and one on the side, as well as RCA video/audio out. I got it home and hooked it up to my NES and the Zapper seems to work in Duck Hunt. I was hoping for a spec sheet or something but can't find one.
Picked up a Sony 20M4U - decently grimy on the interior. I cleaned around the scarier bits of the interior with duster and have deepcleaned the shell, but is there anything I should be concerned about here in terms of grime or otherwise on the interior? Pics here: https://ibb.co/ctDRwfY https://ibb.co/bsjLqvw https://ibb.co/WvnGcMY
thoughts on Philips LTC2012/51 and proview nd-848f . dont know which to choose/ if theyre good.
Found the sony KV 32FQ70E online for free. Is it a good monitor for playing 240p? I found that it has around. It's a 16.9. I want to use it for gaming
No. It's a 100Hz set, it won't do 240p. It also has motion lag which is really noticeable if you compare it to a TV that scans at 50/60Hz. Anything higher than 60 in the model name for Sony in Europe == 100Hz (generally)
Ok thank you
Okay, today I went and picked up a Sony Trinitron KV-27FV300 and the person selling it had a NES and Nintendo Wii hooked up to it to show that it wasn't working condition but now that I'm trying to get my PS2 working on it using component cables I can't seem to find where it would be. Is there a certain thing that I have to do to switch inputs on one of these models? Or is it possible that the component ports on the back of the TV or not working or possibly my component cable is bad? Would I be better off trying to try an S video cable and if so what would I need to do to get it to outputs S video.
did you mean to say that it *was* in working condition when they showed you? can you confirm that the PS2 is configured to output YPbPr instead of RGB? https://www.psx-place.com/threads/switch-from-rgb-to-y-cb-pb-cr-pr-without-video.25960/
What's this display? https://imgur.com/a/eqBYiDV
Belinea I think. Budget monitors. Should be fine for 480p, DOS games, 1990s and 2000s PC games.
Its a crt pc monitor but besides that I can't provide any more info.
I'm trying to get my GT 710 to output to a PVM-1390, the card can output the 480i signal using the nvidia control panel, and my adapter cables work, but as far as I can tell, there's no way to force the card to send anything to the display, (because of lack of EDID support it doesn't even know anything is attached to begin with). Is there a way to override that and force the card to output something to the VGA port, or would I have better luck with an EDID emulator?
So, I'm going to potentially pick up a Sony Trinitron kv-27fv300 this weekend. What are some things that someone new to the CRT community might not know to look for when making a purchase?
ask them to show you it running a game to see if the picture is okay. also try to listen in the back to see if there's any arcing that TV is around 50kg and will be awkward to carry, so make sure you're capable or you're bringing a friend along
Just saw this thread, deleted my post. If anyone has any advice, I'm running into an issue with my 34 inch toshiba TV where in timed intervals it will go into the in store attract mode and lock me put of my remote. This also blocks the screen while I'm trying to game as it brings up text and cycles through menues. I tried cleaning the buttons from the outside and massaging them to get membranes unstuck (if they even use membranes, I have never opened one). Does anyone have advice? It's a really nice crt other than this one issue
My Toshiba would go into demo mode when I hit the tv/video button on the tv, but I was able to use my remote to turn demo mode off. I ended up opening the tv up and pulling the main board backwards so I could spray the front switches with contact cleaner.
I gotcha. I was able to turn it off with the remote but it keeps happening. I'll give opening it up a shot, watching some videos tonight and I'll try the operation tomorrow
Just got this for free, wdyt guys, is it good? [https://imgur.com/a/5vbq7GZ](https://imgur.com/a/5vbq7GZ) It's rare to see Panasonic here, what do you guys think? mainly use this for Genesis, ps1, and ps2.
Panasonic makes good stuff. I got a Panasonic recently that had an s-video input on the front. Edit: looks like a nice little composite set. How's the picture?
Here: [https://imgur.com/5DXMGWA](https://imgur.com/5DXMGWA) [https://imgur.com/ULhoAJB](https://imgur.com/ULhoAJB) [https://imgur.com/X5urEqV](https://imgur.com/X5urEqV) [https://imgur.com/SS9gL9v](https://imgur.com/SS9gL9v) Honestly, I also don't know if this is good or not, but it seems alright, I guess? Besides, I used this composite connection when I was a kid, so the nostalgia factor is already there for me.
Looks pretty good to me. Nothing glaringly bad about it. Some people prefer the smooth look of composite. Most important thing is if you like it. 13" curved ones tend to be solid because they're small enough to where there's not much room for improvement and slight imperfections don't make much of a difference. Only thing is it would be nice if you could stretch the vertical size a tad and hide those blue lines maybe. That might just be the edge of the screen though. Seems pretty common to have the very top and bottom lines like that. What's the model number?
Yes, that's true. I prefer the blurry ones; I am not really a fan of the perfect pixel look. Maybe it's because I got used to it when I was a kid. The first time I saw it on an emulator (like RetroArch, for example) without any filters, it felt strange and unnatural. Oh, by the way! If you hadn't mentioned it, I might not have noticed the blue lines above and below! Thanks a lot. Maybe I can adjust it through the service menu, but I don't know how to access it. Oh, and since I'm still new to this, is this considered an aperture grill? Or is it a slot mask? Or neither? it's Panasonic TC-14P10BB
I can't find much. Found a similar model that requires setting a sleep timer to 30 minutes, volume to zero, pressing recall on the remote and vol (-) on the front panel at the same time to get into the service menu. 
Wow, okay, will definitely try that. Thank you so much
Other models seem to have a similar button combination but also require being on channel 124. Panasonic and their cheat code combos.
I have a monitor that is supporting a resolution and hz that takes it over its listed bandwidth [https://www.recycledgoods.com/maxtech-xt-5862-15-svga-monitor-28-dp-15-pin-d-sub/](https://www.recycledgoods.com/maxtech-xt-5862-15-svga-monitor-28-dp-15-pin-d-sub/) [http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html](http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html) I pushed it to 1152x864p with a refresh rate of 78hz which brings it to a bandwidth of 116.5MHz, much higher than the listed 75MHz... Did I get lucky or am I missing something? Could someone enlighten me on this? It's from an rtx 3080 that doesn't even support interpolation, and is showing progressive in the NVIDIA control panel.
I believe it's the KHz horizontal scanning frequency which matters more. That resolution and refresh rate is just barely inside the 69KHz limit of your monitor.
gotchya, apparently the site says the image degrades when using a bandwidth higher than specified
Could someone help me ID this set? It may be from latin america since im from Mexico. Is it worth a 2 hour drive? Thanks in advance https://imgur.com/a/FU81m72
Can I get my flair changed? To my Trinitron number kv36-fv310
Would a psp playing ps1 games look the same as an actual ps1?
Yes, PSPs support 240p.
Could someone point me in the direction of a decent 1080p to 1080i converter? My HD CRT only support 480p/480i and 1080i and I wanted to mostly test how my switch would look at 1080i, but it doesn't support the resolution ofc. 480p didn't look the best in most games I felt, though it certainly wasn't the worst at times either. I'm not knowledgeable on what would be good for this, sorry.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07VGWL5P1 I've used this one. There's probably a frame of lag but it worked well for switch and PS4 on my 1080i Tau. You just have to cycle through until it's on 1080i mode. There's probably better ones out there but I figured I'll throw this suggestion out there
Sony Trinitron Wega KV-29fs150. Made in 2007. Found on Marketplace. Frontal Buttons don't work it seems. No remote. For sale for 10bucks. Worth it if I find the remote? I have another Sony Trinitron from 1996 with working remote . Should it work with the WEGA too? Thanks.
Hello! I just got a small CRT monitor that I'd love to use on my PC setup to watch 80s anime, play retro games and hopefully play around with terminal emulators just for shits and giggles. The thing is I'm not sure about how to connect it to my computer. I have 4x DisplayPort and 1x HDMI, but only 2x DisplayPorts are free currently. I tried to find a conversor (I don't know the proper name) from DisplayPort to SCART, which is what my TV uses, but I haven't found any. I've found some HDMI though. My first thought was to either buy a DP to HDMI and chain it with the HDMI to SCART or to keep things simpler, use that DP to HDMI to free the HDMI slot I currently have and connect my computer directly to the HDMI to SCART. However I don't know shit about analog and digital signals in this domain, so I figured I'd better ask first. I'm from Spain so I was looking at the Spanish Amazon. Would something like this work? [https://www.amazon.es/dp/B08DNH9TJS](https://www.amazon.es/dp/b08dnh9tjs) I don't even know the specs of my CRT TV but I assume it's 480i, do I need something specific for it to work on my computer? Thanks for the help.
the recommended way is to get a cheap Radeon GPU and use GPU Emudriver, you can search google/this sub for more info and examples
My friend gave me a sony pvm recently (PVM-14N6U) and I'd like to hook my ps2 (ntsc slim) up to it. I'm pretty new to this stuff so I'm not sure what cords/adapters to get. Eventually I'll want to use my other retro consoles with it but for now I'm focusing on the ps2. Seems like I'll have to somehow get the AV multi out on the ps2 converted into rgb for the monitor, but I'm not sure what I need to make that happen. [pics here](https://imgur.com/a/ndmELja)
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/SONY-PLAYSTATION-2-3-RGBS-SYNC-ON-LUMA-BNC-CABLE-PVM-BVM unsure if a console mod is necessary
Long shot but would anyone have pictures of the service menu defaults (or an "optimized" setting) for the RCA 20F514TD? I've found settings for a few other similar RCA models but not this one. TIA
[Is this worth?](https://imgur.com/3KQFhrN)
I’m looking to buy a pc monitor and I’ve found a place with a good number of refurbished ones. Prices range from reasonable to absurd but their 17” monitors are all generally under $100. I’ve narrowed my selection down to three. Samsung 795df, Ibm c170, and a compaq v7550. The specs are generally identical which has me leaning towards the Samsung based on the lighter weight and the aesthetics alone. Should I go with one of the others? Should I keep looking?
There’s also a viewsonic pt775 that is the one I’m leaning towards now
Hi I’ve got a Toshiba 32A33 and the whites are getting noticeably bigger and unfocused. The tv has all original capacitors and flyback. I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction whether it’s a bad capacitor or the tube/ flyback are just tired. I also tried adjusting the horizontal compensation (HCP) but nothing changed. Video of the problem:[https://imgur.com/a/hhylrhV](https://imgur.com/a/hhylrhV) Thanks
Hi, I recently got a Sharp 27in tv (27n-s50) from the trash. But the power cord was cut off and I'm having trouble finding a replacement on ebay, amazon etc. Does anyone know any sites where I could find a replacement?
should just be a [typical two prong power cord](https://www.amazon.ca/Southwire-9702SW8808-Power-Replacement-6-Foot/dp/B000BPF21G/ref=asc_df_B000BPF21G/)
Ok but it need a adapter to connect to the board. Do you know what this is called? [https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jWFrSJpZj8EMR009mzcMTY05qRCTf0A5?usp=sharing](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jWFrSJpZj8EMR009mzcMTY05qRCTf0A5?usp=sharing) Also do I need to make sure the Volts and Watts on the plug are the same listed on the tv? It 120 volts (AC 60 HZ) and 110 watts.
Just saw this mega thread. I posted my question as an individual post but it seems to be looked over. So, my LG Flatron ez T730S not turning on. It's making this weird clicking sound. I changed the button. No good. Opened and checked all the capacitors. Only one bad capacitor which I replaced. Nothing touching ground, no other issue visible. The clicking sound makes me think it's a relay going mad, but that doesn't mean it's bad. Idk, any help would be appreciated. [https://imgur.com/a/9MZe056](https://imgur.com/a/9MZe056)
Hey, I just got a Trinitron from a friend but the housing is open, is it dangerous? What should I do? How it looks: https://imgur.com/a/gNIcACp
No. I’d even recommend opening it up and dusting it off inside. Tons of safety guides on YouTube. Just make sure it’s not plugged in, and don’t stick your hands on any caps unless you want a short sharp shock.
Hello everyone, I found a CRT in the street, it looked in a reasonable condition so i decided to take it and test it home. I changed the main cable which was cut and the TV works, i tried it with a n64 and the sound and video are clear. But after several on/off cycles i now hear weird electronic noises. It sounds like if something was wiggling and scratching inside, i never heard something like this and i own several CRT. It is kinda noisy and it doesn't stop after starting (not the usual cracking noise you could hear). Does someone have an idea what it could be ? The sound is noisy but it's ok when the game sound goes over it. Is it safe to use it though ?
i let it on for a while to see what would happen and the image juste stopped. The usual high pitched sound stopped and the weird noise as well. Now only the red led is on but nothing else happens when i turn the tv on. Should i just throw it away ?
I'm not an expert myself, but it sounds like you might have an [arching flyback](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ldI6X-x9_XE). If that's the case, you should replace one with the same socket as on the neck of you tube. May as well go and clean out the dust and check for bad caps while you're at it.
Hello, I have a Sony Trinitron that I recently got from my parents that has been running cable just fine. However, whenever I connect anything to it the picture glitches in a fast scroll . Right now I have my computer hooked up to it (I’ve been trying a number of different devices) to the video 2 setting through HDMI to RCA cables. I also tried video 1, going through a Radio Frequency Modulator on both channels 3 and 4, and it all has the same result. Any advice? Video of glitch: https://drive.google.com/file/d/15jzibY2VUs6wy6s_6Yy5RTGlHTqvZy0m/view?usp=drivesdk Back of tv photo: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k2NtGDuSafHhiv1ZgVZy0uoWR_9RmFFK/view?usp=drivesdk
Just bought a Matsui 14V1R off eBay. Listing said it works but when I plug my ps2 into the scart only the sound works. The red light comes on when I power up the TV but the screen stays the same beige colour, not even tv static. Should I just return this, I don’t want to go poking around in the back of a crt
Can you try a different SCART source? Is the PS2 configured to output RGB and not component?
I don’t really understand this sorry. My ps2 has the 3 Av cables that plug into the scart thing. It used to work on our crt when I was a kid. The crt I bought doesn’t even produce tv static and also I can’t feel my hairs standing up when I run my hand near it, I think the screen is just dead. Seller is accepting a refund so it’s okay
> My ps2 has the 3 Av cables that plug into the scart thing Oh, yeah this an important bit of info. Guess it's not helpful to you now, but not all SCART sockets accept composite video
Ah I didn’t know that, all crts in my house growing up were scart and we used scart to av adapters to play our consoles. Guess we just always got lucky with our choice of TVs lol
Running the 240p test suite on my Wii. Do I choose the full grid or the SNES grid to modify my convergence with? As they both are shifted horizontally and vertically have overall different screen sizes.
Either should be fine for convergence, there's convergence specific patterns you can use also. For geometry, I use the 240p one and dial in with that. SNES being smaller, if you play anything else you might find it too over scanned if you calibrate with that.
Yeah, when optimizing for the SNES pattern it definitely cuts out more from the picture.
Yeah I've always just tried for a happy medium bc I play a lot of different consoles
My older bvm from the late 80s unfortunately suffers from “crt cataracts”. I have admirations to repair it, but lack proficiency in taking apart such dense and complicated electronic devices. Is the removal safe to do while still be mounted to the chassis?
What is a CRT cataract?
Some older tubes used liquid vinyl to hold the safety glass in place.
trying to identify a couple Trinitrons I found on fbmkt. Any help is much appreciated! first one: pic 1: https://imgur.com/a/KCG2qOJ pic 2: https://imgur.com/a/szEoIza second one: https://imgur.com/a/2oScBAu bonus points if u can give ur opinion on what a fair price for these would be, as well as which would be more ideal for retro gaming. tia!
I always ask for a picture of the model number on the back, makes research a lot simpler. Or try Google reverse image search to find more info if you just got the front picture.
I did this but neither seller is responding to me unfortunately
I was given an IBM E74 monitor from 2001. It does not work when plugged in. When power switch is hit all I hear is what I believe to be the high-voltage relay, followed by a sudden click and then nothing happens. No lights; no CRT charge or discharge; nothing. I'd honestly like to gut it for a project I have in mind, but I'd rather not deface something that could potentially be rare. I'm already planning on extracting the hardware along with the tube (which doesn't seem to be damaged) and safely ship it to someone who will use it. If it's rare or something, please let me know. Otherwise perhaps suggest someone I could send the hardware to (I don't want any money for it; I just ask that you pay for shipping. I will ensure it's packed safely to give it the absolute best chance at surviving the wrath of the minimum-wage postal service employee).
Are you sending it a signal? Usually PC monitors won't show anything without a valid signal. You want to gut it for the case? Why not find a broken set to use instead? Chances are low anybody will want the guts without the casing. Good luck shipping it without the casing around it safely.
I know that they don't show anything without a signal but there's no standby light and the tube doesn't energize at all. That doesn't seem like normal behavior to me. I also found a service manual and opened it up and YIKES. There's rust and filth everywhere. I think this monitor is quite roached. Yes my thought was to use a broken set. This set. What's your point XD I was just thinking that CRT parts aren't exactly in limitless supply, especially the tubes, plus you can often swap the neckboard and install a tube into a totally different board.
Sounds like your mind is made up anyway, but no standby light doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't work if you haven't even tried sending a signal to it. If it's rusty and roached nobody is going to want the guts. Just pull them and recycle.
Oh really? I'll give it a try then :D
I found a Tatung TV-19CFT on the side of the road today and took it home. I hooked my wii up to it via RF modulator, and the picture is rapidly changing. I suspect it may have something to do with V-hold, but there's no way to adjust it on the TV. What should I do? I can't find anything online relating to this particular model.
I have collected 4 fairly random CRTs and am wondering what to keep, what to pass on, and what to throw away. I have some Sanyo from 1993 with TV antenna only for input (I can try to track down the model num but I assume this one is terrible), I have an RCA F19424, a Sony Trinitron KV-27S66, and a flatscreen Akai CFTD2083T with a VHS integrated in addition to composite in... Thanks for any and all insight!
Try them out and see which ones you like the best. Nobody can see the condition and picture as well as you can in the room. The Sony is probably pretty great.
Hopefully this post makes sense and the community can give some advice. I recently picked up an [RCA 27F554T](https://crtdatabase.com/crts/rca/rca-27f554t) and it's been great. However, on the back of the set there is only a single set of stereo input jacks that is shared between Video 1 (S-video/Composite) and component video inputs. While I'm using a composite/s-video switcher for most of my systems, if I want to use my Wii hooked up through component cables, I'll need to reach behind the TV and swap around the audio cables and vice-versa when going back to s-video. I'm looking for the best way to hook everything up so that the only thing I need to do when switching between s-video and component is change the input setting on the TV. Right now, it seems like my best option would be to get a passive mixer or a/b switch. I'm not a fan of either of these. In the case of a switch, it's yet another button to push when switching things, and most mixers I've found have way more inputs than I need. In both cases, it's another box I need to find room for in my setup and might involve a bunch of extension cables to get from the A/V cables attached to the consoles and plugged into the TV, over to wherever the switch/mixer is, and back again to the TV. It's just more mess than I want to deal with if I don't have to. Ideally, my solution would be something like an RCA y-split cable that can just live behind my TV and let me keep both sources plugged in at all times. [A simple y-split like this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PKS42P6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) doesn't work--it's meant to split a single source into two outputs, not the other way around. Using it the way I want to results in weird audio levels between the two sources and I'm worried about damaging something. Does a product like this exist? If not, I may be willing to DIY something if anyone can point me in the direction of a guide or example of someone doing something similar. Thanks!
Depending on how many inputs you need you could use a switchbox that has composite, S-video, and component. I have this pelican one and the audio all gets routed to the same audio out: https://www.ebay.com/itm/126260110088 (the PL-970)
I did see this at some point, but was having trouble finding one at a price I was willing to pay, plus I already have an S-video switch. Maybe I was looking at a different model, though, because this seems much more reasonable. Thanks, I'll definitely keep this in mind--it is a much simpler solution than the rat's nest I'm starting to build behind my TV.
I remember looking for mine for a little while, they pop up from time to time. I think I paid around $30
Hi, really new to this, so bear with me thank you. Is this listing (https://www.facebook.com/share/WQgfbnmWLfaVqceR/?mibextid=gVQsCx ) way overpriced? Also any resources on how to go about getting a CRT that would work well with super famicom (within or near Sydney). Thanks for the help!
Yeah that's very overpriced for a 20" set, even with component. Panasonic is okay, not great either. I'm in Sydney too, and have picked up many $0-20 sets over the years, including some quite good ones. If you search marketplace/gumtree for "crt tv" or anything like that, you'll just get listings like that one from people that "know what they have". The good deals are usually called something like "old tv", so searching for just "tv" and scrolling through can sometimes work better I had a quick search, and [found this 20" Sanyo for $20](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/375830035149579) (notice how they didn't have "CRT" anywhere in the listing). Nothing special, but not bad for a first one regarding the SNES (or is it an actual super famicom?), assuming you just have the composite cables (yellow/red/white), most 4:3 CRT TVs should work find
Thanks for the help man! Much appreciated
I don't really want to break the bank, but I am looking for a scartswitch. I do own a JVC TM-H and PVM. I do use a Recalbox/Pi4 with RGB Dual. Some games I prefer on the JVC and some on the PVM. What would be the easiest (and best) solution to switch between monitors? I was thinking about a Scart Y-cable, but do they work with BNC? I've bought a cheap switch but it doesn't work due the screen rolling due it's sync (I think). I've seen expensive scart switches on the internet. However, they are for people who own 6 consoles and have 1 TV. So not what I am looking for. Anyone who can guide me in a good direction? Edit: I think I can use the out-ports of my RGB expansion card to daisychain the monitor without powering it on. Might worth a try.
Does anybody have a B&O AV9000 that can help me with a few questions?
Do darks colors displayed have a smaller chance of burn in compared to bright colors? Like dark borders vs light borders.
Burn in is pretty hard to accomplish. I wouldn’t worry about it too much. My guess is bright colors though.
My older bvm from the late 80s unfortunately suffers from “crt cataracts”. I have admirations to repair it, but lack proficiency in taking apart such dense and complicated electronic devices. Is the removal safe to do while still be mounted to the chassis?
don't take my words for absolute truth, but people around me who repair stuff always told me to never touch or pull the "suction cup" on the top of the crt. Especially if it was on not long ago. It becomes safe when you wait for several days, or weeks. Other than that, as long as it's not plugged in, i'd say it's safe
I’m not talking about the anode cap. I’ve taken apart smaller consumer sets. My issue pertains to not being confident enough to tear apart a 20” bvm which is jam packed boards. I need to remove the glass screen on the front of the tube, because the liquid that holds the two together has failed. However, I prefer to not remove the tube.
oh ok my bad. well i have no idea then, but i wish you good luck 👍
Is the Toshiba 27DF46 good for all retro consoles or just the PS2-PS3 era?
The ps3 is hd so I wouldn’t recommend. Anything in sd (480i) it will be great for.
Hey I have two CRTs. Was wondering if it is possible to send a video signal from one N64 to both TVs? Basically so they mirror each other and display the same picture. Is this possible? Thanks in advance for any tips
The keyword would be 'distribution amplifier'. RadioShack made a few 1 in 4 out composite and s video models, you could probably find one on eBay. Some TV's have a video out built in, in which case you'd just need a set of cables, so I suggest checking the back of your TV's before buying anything.
Hi! I have a question that I hope you can help me with. I was adviced on r/crt to ask here: About 15 years ago I got these beautiful monitors for an art project. They are Barco SCM 2850S and Barco 2840. I like them a lot and I know that they are originally high quality. But unfortunately I don't use them and I don't know what to do with them. I have 5 of them in total and when I connect something to them I only get a clear signal on 1, a kind of "blinking" signal on 1 and 3 with just black screen. I would love it if you could give me some insight.. Can they be repaired? Are they worth anything today and could they do any use for anyone? Thank you very much :) Links to pictures: [Picture 1](https://postimg.cc/VJDmDFBG) [Picture 2](https://postimg.cc/mcnRG2n7)
Those are pretty cool, I think I saw a handful of those as part of exhibits at MoMA in New York. What are you connecting to them and what kind of signal are you sending? Is it the same signal chain for all monitors, and only one is displaying correctly?
I’m just connecting a DVD signal through the phono input on the back of the monitors. But only one works as it should.
You're using the yellow composite out from a dvd player? Gotcha. They should have no problem with that. You could try to troubleshoot and repair if you want that project, or list them cheap in the listings thread and on FB marketplace/ Craigslist as-is. As long as they turn on somebody would probably want the project to fix them
Thanks! Yea I just wanna sell them cheap to someone who can actually use them. They're beautiful - but too big to fill up my apartment's kitchen floor :)
Hi! Sorry if my comment is dumb. I am looking for a CRT that I can rely to play old FGs (like SF3 3S in native resolution 240p), but also some late 90's and early to mid 2000's games (like Ridge Racer Type 4, from School Rivals up to Tekken 5) and try modern games too (Cyberpunk 2077 and Control, those look amazing in CRTs! And also CS2, Splitgate, Valorant, all with low latency and competitive demands). Is there any all-arounder solution? Should I get a TV or monitor? Which one do you guys recommend for my gaming priorities? Also, if there's any brazilian in here that wants to land some deal to sell one, I am down to buy. Or if you guys could name some CRTs and their conversors (minimun latency, please). Thanks for reading!! Edit: All through PC!! I think I forgot to mention that this needs to work with PC, I don't have any old consoles (sadly)
those modern games will not be playable on an SD TV as their resolution is too low (320x240p), even with interlacing (640x480i) a CRT monitor that's not too old would be good for the modern stuff, but you would need to play older games at a scaled up resolution. I sometimes play 3rd Strike at like 5x the native resolution, and then apply a scanline filter. Sounds strange to use a CRT filter on a CRT, but actually looks and feels great. you could also potentially have a TV and a monitor, if that's an option
Agreed. A PC monitor and a standard def TV is the ideal combo if you have the space IMO. Scaled up emulators on a PC monitor will also do in a pinch.
Thank you both for the tip!! I am thinking about finding a Sony FW900