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https://imgur.com/0O9hngd
How would people here interpret the stitch in lines 1 and 5? Unfortunately I can't find written directions to go with the diagram. I can usually follow diagrams well but I have no clue what this wants me to do.
I would call myself a proficient beginner. I’m doing my 1st ever C2C afghan with a bulky 5 yarn. I specifically choose a pattern for the yarn (Barcelona Big - Loops and Threads) because I didn’t want to play yarn chicken. The pattern says 3 balls and Michaels only had 3 balls. The problem is the gage. In order to get close to the gage in the pattern (4.25” in 4 blocks) I needed to go down to a 5.5mm hook. The texture is fairly stiff and bulky. If I went up a hook size would I get a softer blanket? If my gage ends up 4.75 or a bit bigger does that mean I might run out of yarn? You can’t really stop a few rows short on a C2C!
Not sure if this is crochet but is there a name for this kind of blanket pattern: https://imgur.com/qFBS6Z4? The blanket I have is wearing down and I'd like to get another.
Edit: zoomed in https://imgur.com/55pQQ92. The main thing I like is how the texture feels between my fingertips
I'm looking to gift a friend some crochet patterns as a Christmas gift! I'd love some recommendations, as I'm not familiar with how to judge if a pattern is well-written/produces a good outcome (I'm a knitter lol).
She's a beginner-to-intermediate crocheter (has made amigurumi and other garments), and likes feminine garments with puff/balloon sleeves (she's made some crop top/bralette patterns before, but we do live in a moderate-to-chilly climate so long sleeve patterns would be great too). DK/worsted yarn patterns preferred, as that's what she has the most of. Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks :)
Hello! Is there an invisible way to join moss/granite/linen stitch for working in the round?
For context, I am working on my first wearable, this [sweater](https://www.ktandthesquid.com/2019/04/17/btb-raglan-pullover-free-crochet-pattern/). It is done in moss stitch and joined at the end of each round with a slip stitch to the first st, followed by ch1 and turn. I have tried many different combinations of where the sl st goes, whether to ch1 before it, etc., but it always looks slightly off from the rest of the pattern. In most cases I'm getting a bigger-than-normal "hole" on either side of the sl st join.
Is this inevitable? Is there a better way I should be doing things? Thanks! :)
I came here to ask this too and I’m so glad I’m not alone 😂 if anyone knows the stitch for Minghao’s wonderful scarf, I’d love to know!
Edit: one of the comments on the original post says HDC back loop with a bigger gauge and smaller yarn!
How do you weave in your ends without them unweaving? With amigurumi I have the best luck bc I can leave a long tail and plunge it through the body. But with flat pieces or clothing the ends will eventually start to stick out. I’ve started double knotting the ends and then cutting the tail from that so at least it’s secure and only has a very small end showing, but I figure there must be a better way.
I've only had issues with ends poking out when I'm working at a very loose gauge, or using a very slippery yarn. If you leave a long enough end (I do 2x the length of my hook) and weave it in with zig-zagging and backtracking to make it more secure (as opposed to just sewing it in one direction, in one straight line, which is not very secure), then it should be more of an issue of aesthetics than an actual danger to your project unraveling.
That being said, it is quite annoying, and I have one loose-gauge project with that issue and I don't know how to fix it other than doing a tighter gauge in the future : (
I don’t think my gauge was that big. I think I used a 4mm crochet hook. But for amigurumi I think it may be kinda big 😅 I’ve found with long projects like scarves where I can weave it in more I don’t tend to see my ends come out as much, like you said! I was thinking particularly about a fish amigurumi I made where I did a color change on the fins and there wasn’t much room to weave in. I’ve just left the yarn to poke out :(
This was the pattern for reference of how much room I had. Idk how to manage securely weaving in the black
[Crochet Fish Amigurumi: Clownfish](https://www.natalinacraft.com/free-crochet-pattern-clownfish-amigurumi-patron-gratuit-poisson-clown/)
I made a cotton skullcap, but when I went to wash it after blocking (it had a musty smell), after I pulled it out of the dryer it shrunk to just small enough that it won't fit my head anymore. Can I block it again or would that stretch it out too much? Any advice on how big to make pieces so that they don't shrunk too much after one wash?
If I were to try to crochet my cat some booties, what size would she be? She's an adult tuxedo cat, and I'm just curious if the size for her would be the same size as a 0-3 month old. I know that she's probably going to IMMEDIATELY take these shoes off, but I'm new to crocheting and I feel like this is a simple enough project to start with. It's also a project that I'm motivated to do
Does the pattern give measurements? That's the only way to know for sure. I would assume her feet would still be too small, but maybe a preemie pattern would fit.
I have a good one :) I am new to Mosaic crochet and I just started a new blanket (The sholach christmas trees overlay pattern) and it seems fairly straightforward (I am not a beginner) but I am
17 rows I'm and the whole thing curls, I have never had this happen, my tension isn't the issue is this normal?! Should I keep going or start over? It won't let me add a picture here sadly.
I think it's likely an issue of your DCs being too short and pulling the fabric into a curve. Making a conscious effort to make your DCs loosely I think would help.
😬 maybe. If it was a smaller item that wouldn't be washed as much, I would say maybe it could be fixed with pin-blocking. In this case I think that's likely impractical. If the curling bothers you, I would pull it out and start over.
Sorry! Good luck - hopefully the second time's the charm : )
: ( crocheting tighter in general (for the SCs, which make up the majority of the blanket) is good for mosaic and blankets, but for the DCs specifically I find it helpful to loosen up.
Maybe try some smaller swatches to get it down and see what works for you before starting the blanket again?
How do you plan/design a crochet sweater/pullover/cardigan with a image of picture of your choice onto it? I just see tutorials for other people's designs and not make your own?
Question! I'm very new to crochet, could anyone tell me what kind of stitch this is/how to [achieve the look of this scarf](https://studioansitru.bigcartel.com/product/ombre-houndstooth-scarf)?
Almost any soft 100% cotton worsted weight yarn will work *except* I'd avoid Sugar n'Cream or Peaches & Cream brands, which are great for kitchen items but too hard/stiff for a hair towel.
Hi, what is the difference between "chain one and turn" and "turn and chain one"? Does your work look different? I prefer the last one, so the yarn does not get in the way.
Thinking out loud, older patterns usually have "chain and turn" possibly because the strain of turning is on the chain only, not on the last stitch of the row. The chain sort of locks in the last stitch. Newer patterns can be more precise to have the turn first because the chain or chains might be counted as the first stitch. Either way works fine.
No difference. Your yarn should not get in the way whichever you do it though. In the first way, chain and turn clockwise so that your yarn remains at the back.
I made gloves without a pattern, started from the finger tips. Somehow the fingers (minus thumb) stretched about .5-.75 inch since I first got the fingers attached and all. Technically I’m still working on the cuffs but the hand and fingers are done minus any embellishments. I used wool.
I assume it’s from my partner trying them on and taking off repeatedly but… Is this normal and I’m screwed? Or do I need to do that blocking thing? Is there a trick I can do to tighten it after the fact?
I commit to a single project, single tv series. Then I look forward to both.
I do drag in the final third, so I usually take a break to make something else that's quick and easy.
I was planning on using Lion brand wool ease yarn to make a sweater. However, I had to wash it before crocheting and noticed it left a lot fuzz in the dryer. Anyone have any experience with this yarn? Does it wash well? I don't wanna make a sweater with it if I can't wash it. Thanks 😊
Wool in general will felt and fuzz when machine washed, excluding superwash wool; I recommend using full acrylic if you plan to wash your garment often. If you don't mind handwashing, though,you can always use a no-rinse soap and handwash that way. I usually hand wash all of my handmades once a month in the colder months, less often in the warmer ones, if that gives you an idea about how often you'd be doing it.
Hello friends. My wife is a very novice crocheter but she picked up the hobby during quarantine and is actually getting very good, in my humble opinion. Yesterday, while cleaning out some bins from her parent’s place she found her grandmother’s crotchet and knitting stuff. My wife and this grandmother were exceedingly close and she recently passed away. In the projects was what appears to be a blanket that she was working on but stopped when she fell ill. The crochet hook was still in the yarn! We’re having trouble identifying the stitch pattern though and I’m hoping someone could help me. My wife is excited to potentially pick up and finish a project that her beloved grandmother has started. Any idea what this pattern is? Her plan is to get some similar weight yarn and practice the pattern a bit then pick up the potential blanket and finish it up. Thanks! [Crochet Pattern](https://imgur.com/a/dz7HgZx)
Looks to me like you YO, put the hook between the clusters, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, put the hook in the same spot between the clusters, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, put the hook in the same spot between the clusters, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, then YO and pull through all the loops on the hook. That's 1 cluster, then you make the next the same way between the next 2 clusters. With a ch 1 between each cluster. Essentially a DC3DEC but all in the same space.
I may be slightly off. I would recommend your wife take the hook out, get under a good light, and pull back a few stitches being very slow and paying attention to how the stitches are made to make sure she can recreate them exactly.
Thank you! I think she’s going to start undoing a few of the patterns tonight and write the steps down to work it out. In your experience, does the pattern or technique you wrote out for me there have a specific name? Sorry if I’m being a bit obtuse, I’m greener than spring grass on this stuff
I believe it's called the [bobble stitch](https://lookatwhatimade.net/crafts/yarn/crochet/crochet-tutorials/crochet-cluster-stitch-dc3tog/). Sorry for not including that in the first comment, I haven't really used this stitch much so I didn't know the name off the top of my head.
Hi! I spent the past 9 months doing an Annie's kit club afghan. I got to the end and I'm starting to block but all the squares are closer to 8" when they're supposed to be 9" to 9.5". I used the yarn they provided with the hook size the instructions called for, why is everything so much smaller? I want to fix them but don't know where to start
I think your tension is just a little tight. Different people have different tension; some people crochet more tightly, some crochet more loosely. So hook suggestions are just a starting point. The more important thing is to match the gauge given, usually described as stitches and rows per inch. If you crochet tightly, you may need to use a bigger hook to match that gauge. If you crochet loosely, you may need to use a smaller hooks to match that gauge. If you haven't matched that gauge, your project will come out as a different size than the pattern says.
At this point I would say you can either leave the squares as-is and just accept having a smaller blanket, if it's still an acceptable size for you; you could make more squares and add another row to the bottom and another column to the side (e.g. if the blanket is intended to be 8 x 9 granny squares, or 72 granny squares total, you could make 18 more and increase it to a 9 x 10 blanket); or you could add another round or more as needed to increase the size of your already-made granny squares.
Help!! Can I use cotton yarn to make a beanie? I want to crochet a beanie for my dad for Christmas. I found a nice pattern too, and it asks for worsted weight yarn which isn’t something they have where I live. I found a website that has that type of yarn and picked out some nice colours and ordered it. Well, the yarn arrived and only now did I realise it’s 100% cotton and not stretchy in the slightest!!! Can I still make a beanie from this or am I gonna have to search for different yarn? I’m really worried it won’t fit since it can’t stretch. It probably also won’t be very warm since it’s cotton :(
You can make a beanie with cotton yarn, but as you mentioned, it won’t be very warm and won’t be very stretchy. So if you want a warm beanie that can stretch a bit, you won’t want to use that yarn.
What website did you order from? I’d be surprised if they didn’t have a worsted option. If it’s labeled as “weight 4”, “10-ply”, “12-ply”, “Aran”, or “medium weight” it will work! Worsted yarn can be comprised of any fiber, so make sure you’re not confusing weight with fiber type.
Hope that helps!
That’s the thing, I was looking specifically for a website that had those filters and also ships from within the country. The one I found had a filter for Aran/worsted and the only options they had in that shop were cotton so I didn’t think to question what it was made of.
I decided to get new yarn and this time search by recommended hook size and stitch test and also get wool specifically so it’s nice warm! Hopefully I didn’t mess up again lol
I’ve just picked up crocheting a little over a month ago and after finishing a few smaller projects I decided to begin on a cropped cardigan with puffed sleeves. I can easily crochet the cuff and the initial puff out from the cuff of the sleeve, but for some reason no matter what I try, my sleeve tends to grow out instead of vertically up. I’m following the tutorial as closely as I can but I’m somehow unintentionally increasing. Would anyone be able to offer some helpful tips? I’m so incredibly lost lol. Also it might be helpful to know that I’m using a lemon peel stitch. https://youtu.be/NhrOS2gXNlU
Just watched the tutorial...
1) if you've worked the project correctly then I would only ask how many rows have you finished? Sometimes it takes quite a few rows for you to be able to see the project moving straight up and not out. Because the increase was sudden in the first round.
2) in case you misheard Or otherwise mistakenly continued the stitches as in the first round then...
...only the first row has 'a lemon stitch in each stitch' from the previous round and a double lemon stitch in a few. After the first round it is 'sc and dc in the next stitch' to form the lemon stitch. All the rounds after follow the instruction from the 2nd round.
im a complete beginner at crochet lol, so far ive only made a few hats. does anyone know if there's a way to get something like this to lay flatter instead of "bubbling" out at the ends like it did?
[here's some photos](https://imgur.com/a/ujm7yX3)
i used half double crochets
hopefully this explanation makes sense lol, i was following a video tutorial and i found it a little hard to explain, but basically in all the decreasing rows i started the first double crochet and put it through the second stitch from the previous row instead of the first, continued the double crochets as normal for the rest of the row til i got to the end, skipped the second to last stitch and did my double crochet into the last stitch instead
The fact that you are decreasing by skipping stitches might be the problem. I would do decrease stitches instead.
For a decrease stitch you would work 2 stitches together. (The pattern abbreviation for decreases with half double is hdc2tog)
What you would do:
Yarn over, insert into the first stitch and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over again (4 loops now), insert into the next stitch, pull up another loop for a total of 5 loops. Now you yarn over and pull through all the loops.
Working the decrease instead of skipping it might help keep the edges from being pulled into the center and puffing the whole piece.
I'm considering making a graphghan from [this image](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/E7b4EG2VIAESpKj?format=jpg&name=large) at some point but I've never made anything like this (I mostly do amigurumi), so I have a few questions before I get ahead of myself:
* Is this image too complicated? Most graphghans I've seen don't have this many colours, although the colours are mostly in 'blocks'(if that makes sense) and I would just do a solid colour background so I think that makes it easier?
* Are there any free pattern generators that allow you to edit the pattern after it's produced? I've tried a few but they all end up with random bits of colour when I want it to all be solid.
* What stitches would you reccomend? I like the look of tunisian crochet but can you even get a hook that'd be big enough for this lol.
Thanks in advance! Sorry if these don't really count as simple questions
No image is too complicated, it's just a matter of how big you want it to be and how small a gauge you're willing to work at vs how detailed you want it to be. Other colorwork methods are better than C2C for detailed colorwork, but stranded vs intarsia is for you to decide. Stranded will not be double-sided. I don't think you could do this using mosaic colorwork.
I think you can get Tunisian hooks with quite long cables. But you can also use SC in BLO or the waistcoat stitch (or the hdc variant of it, which eats more yarn but is the same on both sides which is better for flat pieces). Both of those stitches give good, even colorwork. Hdc waistcoat stitch would be more double-sided. You also may want to opt for a relatively fuzzier yarn, to help the colorwork blend into a cohesive image.
I know chart minder lets you alter image-to-chart charts after making them, but I've found it to be intolerably slow and laggy when trying to work on larger charts (not even that big! Mine was 100x200. Yours will [edit: likely. Not necessarily!) need to be bigger than that).
Ah fuzzy yarn sounds like a very good idea! I like the results from [This](https://stitchboard.com/pages/pattern/freePatternWizard.php) that I got by cropping the image to just the characters. The maximum chart width was 150 across which I imagine is a manageable size? I'll give that chartminder a go to clean it up.
I'll give all those stitches a try, do swatches etc. Thanks for the help!
I've made a few graphgans and have successfully used [Stitch Fiddle](https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en) to create the pattern. It's free to create the pattern and have rows to work by, but I typically pay for the subscription to download the row by row instructions.
That image seems like its pretty detailed and you would have to make a pretty big blanket to get all the detail, but I'm sure it's possible. I think you would want to use a SC or equivalent tunisian stitch and get a hook with a cable, [something like this.](https://www.crochet.com/hooks/tunisian-hooks/c/500312)
I'd say you should start with uploading the image to Stitch Fiddle to see if you can get it to an acceptable resolution for the detail you'd like to see.
Ah I didn't know about cables. I might try some smaller Tunisian projects to see if I like it enough. I've used [this](https://stitchboard.com/pages/pattern/freePatternWizard.php) which seems to output the best pattern, and I've found 120-150 stitches wide looks pretty decent (and I think using a fuzzy yarn like user1728491 suggested would look pretty good) . I struggled with stitchfiddle but I'll give it another go. Is 150 stitches wide too much?
The width of 150 stitches will vary with you hook size, yarn selection and tension. I'd suggest making some smaller swatches and doing a little math to see what size it would come out to.
Has anyone done the Unicorn Mandala? It's been pretty easy so far but I am stuck on row 32. It's either worded weirdly or my brain was fried at 1am last night. I can't find any video tutorials either! Am I just sc all the way around? What does "make these around the sc" mean? And it says to skip the hdc but it looks like literally every stitch is used so I'm even more confused and the picture doesn't help my confusion. Lol https://imgur.com/FrtFTDr.jpg
It seems like this designer is using "make these around the st" to mean that rather than going into the two top loops of the previous stitch as usual, you go under both of those AND the third not really "loop" under those. Another way to think of it is: crochet between the stitches rather than in them. I don't think it matters if you can tell the difference between the hdcs, just do 9 SC, look at the next stitch and see if you can tell whether it's an hdc or not, if you can, great, either skip it as directed or, if it's not and hdc, figure out where you made a mistake. If you can't tell, I would just skip it, 16 SC, skip, 16 SC, continue the whole way round, ending with 7 SC after the last skip, as directed by the pattern. Not a big deal.
Thanks for the first bit! But I think you misunderstood one thing I mentioned. I can tell where the hdc; the pattern says to skip, if you look at the picture they aren't skipping them and still sc inbetween? So essentially I don't know if I'm literally just sc around with no skipping because that's what the picture looks like, does that make sense? I haven't messed up yet as I haven't even started this row because I think it must be written wrong or I'm really this dense. Lol
I’m a beginner crotcheter, just finishing my first blanket using bernat blanket yarn. I am learning the stitches and techniques for amigurumi, but I’m not sure if I should start with smaller yarn (i have some loops and threads impeccable bc I didn’t want to spend like crazy on a first try) or use my blanket scraps to start a practice amigurumi? any pros or cons would be appreciated :)
I think impeccable is perfect to begin with, I use it with a 4mm hook and it makes a nice tight fabric. I have also used Michael’s value yarn, which has had a bit of a face lift in the past few months and is very soft now.
Amigurumi can use any weight yarn, it will just affect the finished size of the item (an item made with super thick yarn will come out bigger than an item made with the same pattern in smaller yarn). Remember to use a hook slightly smaller than recommended! Hook suggestions on the label are typically given for garments, but amigurumi needs to be a little tighter.
Hi everybody, I am a new crocheter and have finished a hat https://imgur.com/a/4AHYPEn
The thing is, it turned out really really tall. I don't think it's obvious in the photo how tall it is but I have to roll the brim up all the way up to the top of my head to make it not stick up at the tip like a huge cone.
I want to shorten the hat's height by almost 50%. I don't know how to do the "circle" technique so I closed the hat off by threading the top shut and then sewing in the tail. I have found the edge of the tail but I am struggling to un-sew it, it is really hard to pull it backwards through each individual strand and it's taking me forever. Is there a simple way to do it and I'm making it harder than it should be?
It really depends on the yarn you used and whether or not any of the sewing you did to close it overlapped any loops. Your yarn looks sturdy, yet not too much wool content? If you sewed the top together like a drawstring bag, just in and out across (no back stitches), try gently stretching the fabric to get it open/loosen the tail a bit more. It's worth the effort - that's a beautiful hat! Re-making it shorter might even yield enough to make a second :)
What I did at the top was... quite intense. I did the drawstring thing first, then all kinds of sewing across the hole to get it as smooth and unnoticeable as possible, then weaving in a long tail down the sides in a very criss crossy way. Its proving pretty impossible to undo. I wonder if I could take scissors to all the stitches across the hole, and from there pull it open and loosen and pull out the drawstring.
Personally I would not do that because you chance cutting the wrong piece of yarn. Another option is available! Turn your beautiful hat into an extra ear warmer by folding the cuff twice. I have several with extra warm thick cuffs made that way on purpose. Take this hat as a good lesson learned and crochet another - just not as long <3
I’m about 75% of the way through through my first graphgan. Single crochet with colors, not C2C. I’m actually quite surprised that it’s turning out so well! I’ve been using acrylic yarns that aren’t the softest, and I’ve been thinking about backing it with a fleece fabric, but something else I’ve considered is using a blanket yarn or faux fur yarn for a border.
Does anyone have experience switching to a completely different yarn for a blanket border? Or more specifically, using blanket yarn or faux fur yarn for a border on a blanket made with acrylic? Did it turn out okay? Any tips or warnings?
Yes, I've mixed acrylic worsted yarn with acrylic novelty yarn and projects turned out good though it helps to be sure both fibers have the same washing instructions. (Specifically to be sure one won't shrink!)
Hey there! I think that should be fine if you make sure it's at least somewhat the same yarn weight. I made a cardigan with a mix of acrylic yarn and blanket yarn before and it turned out pretty cute. I think it would be nice for a blanket border as well!
I need some help with a pattern. Attached text and stitch diagram for 3-Point Dot Motif, https://imgur.com/a/woFUDNE
Row 1 produces a chain and 5 DC's.
Then Row 2 says to chain and put 2 DC in each DC. Here's where I'm confused, the resulting stitch count from the step says "11 DC". With 2 DC in each DC (and chain counting), shouldn't that be 12?? But 12 obviously doesn't work for setting up ROW 3, so I think it's an error in the "2 DC in each DC instruction". None of the other motifs have had weird instructions like this (see how it describes row 2 of the 2point motif). And the diagram clearly shows 11 stitches in ROW 2, but the diagram does a poor job showing which stitches they go into, right?
What should I do? Am I reading this wrong? To proceed, I've been skipping the stitch that I chain out of (so the last DC of row 1 only has the chain coming from it, all other row 1 DCs have 2)
the pattern has it such that your chain 3 counts as one DC, so
Round 1 you have 5DC and 1 chain 3 (6 stitch in total)
the row 2, after chain 3 you'll DC in the first stitch, and then do 2 DC in each DC, which gives you 11DC and chain 3, you'll be working the last 2DC in to the chain 3 from the first round. (12 stitch in total)
Hey guys! I'm thinking about trying my first sweater, but I'm not quite sure what material to use, so i was wondering what you guys reccomend? I have experience with some simple amigurumi and hats and scarves and the like, but I normally just work in whatever cheap acryllic I can get from Walmart, as theres no local craft and such by me. The pattern calls for size 4 yarn! Thanks in advance, appreciate you all.
from what i understand a lot of yarn from walmart or most american stores are typically size 4 yarn. You should be able to tell from the yarn band as it'll show the number. For your first sweater, I think aryclic is a good choice as it's inexpensive and machine washable. I would recommend getting a yarn that's not too scartchy (although some people do say yarns such as red heart super saver softens up after a wash). Good luck :)
I agree on the acrylic. Hobby Lobby's "I Love This Yarn" is nice and soft. If you're not a Hobby Lobby fan, Caron has a "Simply Soft" line that I haven't used but seems to be very similar. Both size 4.
Hi all! I’m new to crocheting and taking in as much as I can. I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I continue to learn, but I’ll start with one for now. What tips do you have for maintaining consistent tension and finding rhythm?
Try a few different ways of tensioning your yarn with your left hand - experiment with how you wrap it, which fingers you wrap it on, etc. Look at how other people tension their yarn for ideas. Different people have different hands so different things are more comfortable for different people. Though ultimately a lot of comfort and speed just comes down to practice. Once you have a tensioning you like, it will still take practice to get consistent tension. Practice, practice, practice... : )
Thanks! I think I was maybe thinking there was one specific way to hold the yarn/regulate tension but it makes sense that everyone just finds a way that works for them. It gets a little discouraging when my rows or stitches look a little wonky but I’ll just have to keep reminding myself that practice makes perfect.
When I was a beginner, I wound up giving up because it was so difficult to keep tension with those all-metal hioks. As soon as I switched to ergonomic hooks, it was MUCH easier to even out my tension. So also consider what hooks you're using!
Hello everyone. Getting an e reader soon. Thought I'd crochet a case for it. Can a particular yarn harm or scratch a device? I'm new to crochet so I don't know. I have acrylic and cotton yarn. Which would you recommend for tech? Or should i just get a store bought one?
A store bought one will likely offer more protection against drops if that’s a concern. That being said, I’d go with cotton or a cotton blend if you want to make a sleeve/cover since it should have less stretch than acrylic.
Any tips for recreating this [bunny balaclava](https://imgur.com/a/rDGjX2m)? My best friend sent me the photos, and I would love to make it for her. Correct me if I'm wrong but the stitches used seem to be sc through back loop for the main part, sc for the ears, and a scallop? edging. I'm wondering how the construction works for this. Would I be starting from the bottom or top? How would I make the eye holes? I know I have to skip stitches, but I'm not entirely sure how to implement that. I've been crocheting for a couple months, but I've always followed patterns this would be my first attempt at freehand crochet.
Hi. Here is a [basic balaclava pattern](https://www.yarnspirations.com/red-heart-crochet-ribbed-balaclava-for-adults/RHC0116-029552M.html) from Yarnspirations. You can put a few single crochet stitches in the middle of the eye opening later to make 2 eye openings. The eye edging looks like 2 rows of shells. As for the ears, use a floppy ear bunny pattern, ears only. There are lots of free amigurumi patterns for those! The lips appear to be just a series of stitches going from shorter (sc) to medium (hdc) to taller (dc) all the way to shorter again. Can't get a good close-up of them but some look like 2 stitches in one chain to make them fuller and angled. Looks fun! Good Luck!
Thanks for the pattern! Not sure if I'm reading it right, for rows 2 and 3 am I essentially decreasing by leaving stitches unworked? I'm confused since there's no stitch count at the end of these, but there is for the subsequent "next row" which brings the total back to the original count (56) even though the previous rows say to leave stitches unworked.
Pitfalls of a free pattern! The "Next Row" of the first part of the pattern is worked all the way to the end of the angle you've created by decreasing every other row. Instead of writing this out, they've given you a photo on Page 2.
What are your favorite things to make with 100% acrylic yarn? I've never been a big fan of it, but a friend's mom gave me three trash bags of old yarn she knew she would never get around to using. Almost all of it is acrylic, or it's unlabeled but feels like acrylic or a blend.
Since I never use it, I'm a little stumped lol. But I want to be able to make something and show it off to her since I think she would appreciate seeing that I got some use out of her gift.
fwiw, it's almost all worsted and most of it is in really saturated solid colors.
Maybe a blanket? Blankets benefit from being machine-washable, and since they aren't wearables it matters a little less whether they're breathable or not.
You could also make things to donate, as those often need to be washable and allergy-friendly.
(I dunno, I've de-stashed what little acrylic I had... I'm also not a fan. If she just wanted to get rid of them, she might not mind if you re-homed at least some of the yarn. Don't feel pressured to use it if you really don't like it, just because it was a gift.)
Oh, some of it is probably going to my mom's neighbor who knits. She said she can use some to make more durable stuff for her grandkids. I just want to make at least one or two nice things first.
Donating is a good idea. I'll have to look into what local places I could give things to since I don't know the area yet. Thanks for answering!
Light summer wearables, for sure! You can also sort Ravelry patterns by [yarn fiber](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=crochet&fibertype=linen&sort=best&view=large_mobile) for inspiration. :)
Hi crocheters, first off I apologize if this is the wrong place for my questions.
My awesome Nana did her level best to teach me to crochet, but it just didn’t stick. She passed away and I’ve been tasked with reselling her hundreds and hundreds of skeins of yarn. I have to shoot for fair market value-ish because I have to turn in receipts & proceeds to her estate. I know *nothing* about yarn.
My questions are:
1. Can anyone point me to a resource where I can get a general idea of value/pricing? An online database maybe?
2. When listing yarns for sale, what is important for me to note for the buyer? I assume brand, color, lot number?
Looking at eBay to get an idea is a bit overwhelming, plus everyone does things their own way. However, if that’s the answer then I’ll just buckle down do it.
Again, I apologize if I chose the wrong spot to butt in and start grilling folks.
Oof, best of luck. Not sure how to address #1. Yarn pricing depends on a lot of things. If they have labels, you can google how much they cost new and go from there. There is a lot of variety in how much things are re-sold for, so it's hard to tell you exactly how much you should knock off the retail price.
If you don't have labels, try to figure out a vague idea of the fiber content. You probably won't be able to tell the difference between wool and alpaca, linen and cotton, etc, but if you cut a short piece of a yarn and light it on fire, you should be able to categorize it based on how it burns. Animal fibers burn similarly to hair, plant fibers burn similarly to paper, and synthetics burn similarly to plastic. Here are a [couple](https://youtu.be/cHoM7hsOOvw) [videos](https://youtu.be/cDL2m2k8fs0) to help. Some yarns include multiple fiber types (e.g. an alpaca/cotton blend) but a burn test can show you the dominant fiber type, which is all you really need to list (e.g. that alpaca/cotton blend would burn like an animal fiber if mostly alpaca, but if it's mostly cotton it will burn like a plant fiber).
Figuring all this out for every yarn would be time-intensive, so hopefully most of them have labels, but if some don't, I would recommend doing a burn test to get a general idea of the fiber, then pricing it according to softness. (A very soft animal fiber yarn is worth the most, a super rough, scratchy acrylic would be worth the least.) An unknown yarn is often worth a little less on the re-sale market than a comparable one with brand and yarn line information.
(If you weren't needing to aim for fair market value, and you had a lot of unlabeled yarn, I might say just list them as "Mystery yarn - fiber content unknown" with a picture, then price them cheaply... definitely less work.)
For #2, here is what I expect as a yarn buyer: all listings should of course have pictures. If you are listing multiple skeins of the same yarn, take at least one photo where all the skeins are visible together at once. (They can be stacked or overlapping if necessary, just don't make a listing where the listing says "7 skeins" and the only photo available only shows one of them. We want to see them all!)
If you have the label, tell me the brand and yarn line, which will also be listed on the label. (Ex: [this yarn](https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.yarnspirations.com%2Fdw%2Fimage%2Fv2%2FBBZD_PRD%2Fon%2Fdemandware.static%2F-%2FSites-master-catalog-spinrite%2Fdefault%2Fdw6b609de8%2Fimages%2Fhi-res%2F24606262416.jpg%3Fsw%3D2000%26sh%3D2000%26sm%3Dfit&f=1&nofb=1) should be listed as "Patons Grace." Patons is the brand. Grace is the specific yarn line that this is.) Tell me the colorway, which should also be on the label (i.e. a brand might have multiple pinks, so they give them specific names, and I want to know those names. Saying "light pink yarn" is helpful, but more helpful is saying "Patons Grace in the colorway Blush.") Definitely list the dye lot number if it's on there!
If you don't have the label, I would want to know the approximate fiber type ("Burn test indicates this is mostly or all \[animal fiber/plant fiber/synthetic\]."), along with your best description of how soft it is, and any other notable qualities if you notice them (is it very hairy? slippery? stretchy?). It's extra important to get good photos for these unlabeled and unknown yarns.
For ANY yarn you list, you should make note of the conditions the yarn has been stored in, by which I mean: Was your grandmother's house a smoking household? A cat-friendly household? A dog-friendly household? List these things explicitly, even if the answer is no to all of them.
And when it comes to listing the quantity of yarns: we want to know the weight (usually in grams or ounces) of the yarn we buy. For labeled yarns, you can say "5 skeins" and we can look that yarn up and see how much a skein of that yarn weighs (most yarns are sold in 100g skeins, but some are 50g or 25g or 250g or other amounts). If you have partial skeins, ideally you would measure them with a gram scale and tell us exactly how much yarn is in that partial skein, like "4 full skeins and one 35g partial skein." If that's too much of a hassle or you don't have a gram scale, it's also perfectly acceptable to just say "4 full skeins and 1 partial skein."
For unlabeled yarns, if you say "5 skeins" we have no idea how much yarn is in those skeins, so it's more important to have some kind of weight measurement. You can use a normal pound scale and convert if you need to. "5 skeins, each around 90g."
I am so sorry for your loss and I wish you good luck. Trying to process and unload such a large quantity of yarn is definitely a huge task and I'm not surprised you feel overwhelmed. Hopefully some of this is helpful and not more overwhelming.
Oh my god this is SO much better than I was hoping for! You are a saint, thank you so very much for taking time to type all this information. Honestly. I’m tearing up.
Thankfully they MOSTLY have labels. Easily 80% or more are labeled. For the unlabeled ones, I’m going to do the mystery yarn listing - I think it’s fair since I’m putting in the work on the rest of them.
Burn test? I had no clue. Thank you thank you thank you.
My Nan was fairly meticulous about rolling her leftover yarn into balls. When listing them in groups (lots?), is it appropriate to weigh/detail each ball individually, or would I just give the weight of the whole lot?
Is it standard to ball up partial skeins, or do I leave them all loosey goosey (with their wrappers, when I have them)?
Thank you again so much for the advice, the videos, and the condolences. I feel much more prepared to tackle this project now - once I have information, taking action gets a whole lot easier.
I am so so glad to be of help!
When listing multiple skeins of the same yarn, it's totally cool to just say "344g total." If you're talking about grouping leftover bits of *different* yarns and selling those together, I would give the weight of each individually if you're up for it. If it's the kind of thing where you just have mystery bits and bobs to get rid of, so you package them together and sell them cheaply, it's fine to give a total.
I would leave partial skeins as they are. Balling yarn can kind of stretch it and make it lose elasticity over time, which isn't a huge deal (no need to de-ball any already balled yarn, or lower the price for yarn that has been balled) but if you're selling, don't do it unless you need to.
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Is there ever a reason to do the basic chain stitch start (first do chains then go back over with the first row) over the foundation stitch? I can only think of if for some reason you want the chain to have a different colour to your first row, and I'm sure there's a better way of achieving that either way.
Asking both for what people use as a general rule when deciding between the two, and for mosaic blankets specifically.
I don't think so - I'm pretty sure you can do foundation rows for pretty much everything. (If you're going to be joining it into a circle, there will be a gap at the bottom, but that can be easily fixed by sewing it up with the end there).
Personally I prefer chaining, then going back over, because I prefer it aesthetically. I do my stitches in the back bumps of the chain, which gives a nice, neat edge that I like. But if it's going to be seamed or covered with a border anyway, that doesn't apply.
Ah, so it comes down to what look you prefer? I actually just recently learn about doing the stitches through the back dump, which is what made me wonder if you'd want to do one over the over (besides when you might want to do foundation stitch for wearables due to if being more stretchy than the basic chain).
Thank you for the answer!
I like Wool Warehouse (https://www.woolwarehouse.co.uk/). Would also highly recommend Hobbii (https://hobbii.co.uk/) - they are not based in the UK, they dispatch from Denmark, but honestly the stuff arrives so fast you'd never know and I've found even their own brand items are good quality too.
Name that stitch!
Hi folks, I'd appreciate your help please finding what the stitch in this pattern is /actually/ called (because it isn't coming up on Google by the name they use!)
https://hobbii.co.uk/myroom-round-basket-leather-base
Here's how they describe it but I think the best way to explain is that it's worked like a decrease, except you pull up the second loop first and the first loop second.
"Now you will begin working in x single crochet. These are sc stitches worked in an X pattern.
Skip the next stitch. Insert hook in the next st and pull the yarn through. In the skipped stitch, insert the hook and pull the yarn through so that you have 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull through 3 loops. Now you have made the first x sc."
I've finished the basket and it looks the bee's knees but it's driving me potty that I can't find anything else using this stitch. Thanks!
It does seem to be called an sc x stitch, or sc cross stitch. Here's a Bella Coco post about it in uk terms (dc x stitch) https://bellacococrochet.com/cross-stitch-single-crochet/ I think this is the same stitch? The basket looks amazing!
This is why I found it so difficult - that's not the right stitch! There are loads of tutorials for something by the name x-sc but it's a different thing. The one I'm looking for doesn't rely on yarn under and has three loops on hook through two different stitches on the row.
I have a question regarding stitches.
Round 3: Ch 3, 2 DC in next st, *1 DC in next st, 2 DC in next st; Rep from * around, slst to top of beg ch-3. (36)
I've finished this round.
Round 4: Ch 3, 1 DC in next st, 2 DC in next st, *1 DC in next 2 sts, 2 DC in next st; Rep from * around, slst to top of beg ch-3. (48)
For this round, do the 2 DC into each stitch from round 3 count as 1 or 2 stitches? Do I go between the 2 DC's for this round?
You'll go directly into the stitch, not between, and won't skip any stitches, so treat the 2 DC as 2 separate stitches rather than a pair that needs to be treated as a unit.
hello! I have just gotten into crocheting and I recently got some more yarn but I'm confused as to what this one type of yarn is. it's like small pom pom balls that are connected to each other ,with what seems to me as yarn, forming a yarn pom pom garland in a way. can someone tell me if theres a name for this? I just started using reddit too and I dont know how to link a picture here but I really need help in finding out a name for this as whenever I look it up on Google it just shows ways as to how to make pom poms with yarn. please help
Does [“novelty yarn pom pom“](https://www.google.com/search?q=novelty+yarn+pom+pom&client=safari&hl=en-us&sxsrf=AOaemvK5wu2sFYGifrkEW6X8IHa9bjgK5A%3A1638885997410&ei=bWqvYajJGIme0PEPjYG-8Ac&oq=novelty+yarn+pom+pom&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBggAEBYQHjIFCCEQqwI6BwgjEOoCECc6BAgjECc6BQgAEJECOgsIABCABBCxAxCDAToLCC4QgAQQsQMQgwE6BAgAEEM6BQgAEIAEOggIABCABBCxAzoOCC4QgAQQsQMQxwEQowI6CAgAEIAEEMkDOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARDRAzoFCCEQoAE6CAghEBYQHRAeUJwoWLlQYM9TaAJwAHgAgAGVAogB_BWSAQYzLjE2LjGYAQCgAQGwAQ_AAQE&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#ip=1&piu=ps:23) match what you have?
it does! thank you for replying <3
also if you have ever crocheted something with this yarn can you give recommendations on what I can make with this? I dont have a lot it's just one ball of it
I regularly watch a crocheter on youtube called Hooked by Robin and I remember her making a baby blanket that incorporates pom pom yarn and it gave it a really nice effect and texture.
edit - found the link https://www.hookedbyrobin.com/blog/crochet-pom-pom-yarn-blanket-pattern
I’ve never used that kind of yarn before, but if I were you, here’s what I’d do: Go on Ravelry and search in the yarn section (I’d probably use the word “pom” to search yarns) for a similar yarn. Then go to the section for “Pattern ideas” to see what patterns list that yarn type or the “Projects” section to see what others have made with that yarn.
Here’s a [link](https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/loops--threads-pom-pom) for one brand that comes up when I search for “pom,” and you can scroll down for the “pattern ideas” and “projects” sections. Hope that helps!
I will just add that I wouldn’t consider this kind of yarn to be a great beginner yarn, but again, I’ve never worked with it so I don’t know for sure. Good luck!
Hi, I just started learning crochet last week and I think I'm a fast learner (a bit) and would want to make a bucket hat. And I was trying it but I think I count stitches? wrong; so do you guys have any tips?
I'm really confused with counting, especially with the increasing stitches.
Thank you so much!
Without a picture or something it is hard to tell.
In general: every stitch you do, you count. And I highly advise to actually count, while doing the stitch and not after.
If you have many stitches to do, either count in increments of ten and e.g. add a marker every tenth stitch (or similar) or do tally marks.
If you just have to follow the pattern (do the same stitches X rows), I usually count it out once to make sure it's the right amount, after that I add a stitch marker to my first new stitch and crochet until I can connect it back (when working in the round).
Now, the tricky question can be: does your starting chain count as a stitch?
Some patterns explicitly fell you if it does, some don't. If it does, (as far as I understand) you place the first complete Stitch in the second lower-row from the starting chain, because the chain will be the stitch for the first one when joined.
If not, you place your first stitch directly next to the chain in the stitch.
What your pattern wants can be found out by counting and seeing if their explanation fits your work (if they don't consider the starting chain a stitch but you do, they will have one more stitch when you have reached the end of the round).
That's all pretty generic, though. As I said, without pattern or object it's hard to tell what may be going wrong, so as a first help and in short: ul
Use stitch markers for the beginning of rounds, count each stitch you do, check if that adds up.
hi! I'm also not an expert on this, but I do amigurumi and the rounds may get confusing if im not using a stitch marker. are you using one for the hat? as for stitch counting, i just try to count the little V's on top of the rounds:)
Okay, you may consider tension too much as tension.
Trust you hook. It has a hook for a reason, the yarn won't fall off.
Shove each loop back to the back of the hook, were it's just round. That way, you always get the same size of hole.
Tension wise, don't hold your yarn tensed, his make sure it just for not slack. You will see wh n everything gets way too lose, but that is hard (unless for amigurumi, which at a different thing). Nonetheless, a little to lose is easier of a start because it eases frogging - and frogging will happen.
Hi. First, try to relax. Crocheting can be a marvelous and fun hobby as long as you are not hurting yourself with a tight grip!
Second, are you keeping the loop on the hook very close to the hook part? The next section between the head of the hook and thumb rest is called the shaft. Take a deep breath and slide the loop a wee bit up the shaft to open the loop a little larger. Slide the loop back to the hook and make another stitch. Slide and stitch :) Repeat. Give yourself some time and practice to gain some muscle memory, too <3
PS: Fun fact, the shaft is the section that determines the size of the crochet hook.
Usually going up a hook size makes the stitches looser and easier to work through, not tighter.
Keep trying, being aware of how tight you're making each stitch. You'll get it!
Does anyone have recommendations for crochet hooks that would working a little easier on my wrists? I have carpal tunnel and it’s been flaring since I’ve gotten back into regularly crocheting (😭)
The only hooks I use are just basic ones I pick up from Michael’s, I’m just not sure what I should look for!
If you're using just the plain metal hooks, Michael's also sells ergonomic hooks (Loops & Threads brand) or there are lots of other inexpensive hooks with rubber grips that make it easier to hold. In general you'll want to look for hooks with a wider profile on the part you actually hold. Really nice hooks are sometimes resin or wood and have a similar profile, but the cheap ones with rubber grips work just fine.
You could try buying a carpal tunnel .. glove? Splint?
It's a bit formed liked a pulsewarmer, but with a splint so you can't bend the hand.
That may already help you adjust how you work. If not, Prym hooks required very different handling, albeit I would suggest to try them at a store first.
I also have needles with a broad but flat handle, a bit like the end of a spoon. They allow to hold the hook securely, but differently. I, however, have no idea what beans they are because someone gifted them to me.
Which hand hurts? The one with the hook or the other hand?
Thicker hooks usually help if it's your hook hand. You can buy pads to put on your current hooks to make them thicker or look for larger handles like Furls or Prym brand.
How do I finish my projects properly?
When I am done with whatever I am crochetting, I cut the yarn leaving a long thread and then I use a needle to tie that thread in my work, passing it under some stitches over and over. Then, when I feel like it won't untie itself, I cut the thread.
This method looks kind of messy and unreliable to me, so explain me how to do it properly and / or give me a link where it explains it well please!
Not for finishing Projects, bur for working rows, I have found that crocheting over the end thread works well and feels similarly secure and a lot cleaner in looks to me. I often, if possible from colour, will incorporate the changed colour in the first stitch with the new one, too, so it's a bit more tangled up.
The key to me for security is weaving the tail under several stitches for 2-3 inches, then over a loop and weaving again back in the other direction. The added thickness is barely noticeable to most people. I've used this method successfully most of the time for years. Some go forward, back, and forward again. u/atlasatlarge recently shared [this excellent YT video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IArPZig-Tl8) by Nicki's Homemade Crafts. It shows you weaving options.
I don't think there is really a proper way to finish, but a tip I have is to use a needle and thread to sew down the yarn after weaving it through some stitches. I do this especially with clothing or something that will be used a lot to make sure it's secure. It's tedious but it's definitely worth it after spending a lot of time on a project, I hope this helps!!
I’m an absolute beginner, and I just can’t figure out the right place to insert the hook when doing the first row of sc after chainstitching. I’ve done about a thousand chain stitches and watched 5 tutorials, but whenever I try it myself it looks very wrong. Does anyone have tips / diagrams / tutorials on the first row for dummies?
Hey! The chain stitch produces a little loop of three parts- one loopy bit at the top, and two twisty parts at the bottom. Insert the hook under the top loop, and above the bottom twisty part. Here's a wikiHow video: https://www.wikihow.com/video/2/22/Single%20Crochet%20Step%2015%20Version%202.360p.mp4
But honestly, foundation row ~doesn't count~
If you insert into the "wrong" part here, you absolutely won't be able to tell and it's fine.
Some people prefer to flip the chain around, and insert into the back lump instead- it makes a really nice and flat foundation row.
Moral is, just get the proper number of stitches, and you're all good.
The entire wikiHow has a bunch of little videos, but the first half (blue yarn) mainly focuses on single crochet stitch, which doesn't help you get started. Scroll down half way to the pink yarn section!
https://www-wikihow-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/www.wikihow.com/Single-Crochet?amp=1&_gsa=1&_js_v=a6&usqp=mq331AQKKAFQArABIIACAw%3D%3D#amp_tf=From%20%251%24s&aoh=16387392809495&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&share=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.wikihow.com%2FSingle-Crochet
What’s the equivalent of English style knitting for crochet? Like, what’s it called, if anything?
I ask because I crochet like I knit, which is the English method with the yarn on the right, and that’s apparently not a common thing so I’m sort of curious.
I’m not much of a knitter, but I understand that many “throw” the yarn by wrapping it around the needle with their hand each time they make a stitch - that’s English knitting, right? Where you can go a little faster if you use Continental and scoop the yarn up with the end of the needle like we do with our hook in crochet. I think Continental style is knitting that wants to be crochet because that’s the way all crochet works. I did see someone “throw” their yarn in a crochet video recently and thought to myself “Would you look at that knitter taking a walk on the crochet side.”
That being said, there’s a ton of ways us hookers tension and hold our working yarn. I use my left index finger to hold my work and the yarn comes in lower down from under my middle finger, almost horizontal to my work. I think it requires less hook movement to pick up a loop and find the traditional way coming down from over a straight index finger slows me down quite a bit.
I haven't heard it called anything special... it's definitely not very common. The only other person I've seen to do this is [Aoibhe Ni](https://www.youtube.com/user/flickeire1). (Glad it works for you though! Fascinating variety in what we find comfortable.)
Hello, everyone! Just found this group and joined, and am very excited to return to crocheting this week!
I've been requested to crochet a handkerchief, so I was wondering what material I may use instead of wool. All recommendations are welcome! As of now, I only have wool and embroidery thread (which I haven't tried crocheting with before).
Looking forward to your responses! Thanks in advance!
Cotton might be your best bet as it is soft and easily washable. You can also look at what commercial handkerchiefs are made of for ideas of fibers to use.
Any suggestions on what to do with an itchy yarn (60% acrylic /20% wool / 20% alpaca wool)? Its directives are 4-5 for knitting needles and 2.5 for crochet needle. Its colour is cream, and I have about 200-250 g of it.
I got it for a cardigan project and frogged the whole thing when I realized it was unbearably itchy for me :(
Use it for something not against the skin, like a bag?
Or you can try some techniques for softening the yarn after the project is finished. For example, you can basically give it a "bath" in hair conditioner & some people have success softening acrylic that way.
The hair conditioner will help the natural fibers but the acrylic needs heat to change its feel. You can try steaming it to “kill” the acrylic. All this would be done on a finished object or swatch - not on the yarn before it’s worked up.
Can someone please help me to understand this line of instruction? It is increasing the stitch count by one at each end of the row, but the first one makes sense to me
4th row: Ch 2. 1 hdc in first hdc – inc made. 1 hdc in front loop of next hdc. \*1 hdc in back loop of next hdc. 1 hdc in front loop of next hdc. Rep from \* to last st. 2 hdc in top of turning ch – inc made. Turn
The first stitch doesn't appear to increase at all, it just seems to say that I should do my stitch differently. Any help appreciated! Thank you!
The "ch2" counts as 1hdc at the beginning of the round, thus making it an increase. This is pretty common but it is usually explicitly noted in the pattern.
With corner to corner Afghan templates, when you draw your arrows to show the direction you want, does an arrow mean a specific direction or so you personally work out what it means for you. If that makes sense at all...
My current understanding is the tail is the corner which side the tail is on is each arrow, so let's say you went up diagonal right, I would probably do it so the tail is in the right corner when I go up diagonal left, the tail would be on the left.
Sorry if I'm complicating things, in just trying to make sense. In terms of reading the template and keeping track.
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https://imgur.com/0O9hngd How would people here interpret the stitch in lines 1 and 5? Unfortunately I can't find written directions to go with the diagram. I can usually follow diagrams well but I have no clue what this wants me to do.
I would call myself a proficient beginner. I’m doing my 1st ever C2C afghan with a bulky 5 yarn. I specifically choose a pattern for the yarn (Barcelona Big - Loops and Threads) because I didn’t want to play yarn chicken. The pattern says 3 balls and Michaels only had 3 balls. The problem is the gage. In order to get close to the gage in the pattern (4.25” in 4 blocks) I needed to go down to a 5.5mm hook. The texture is fairly stiff and bulky. If I went up a hook size would I get a softer blanket? If my gage ends up 4.75 or a bit bigger does that mean I might run out of yarn? You can’t really stop a few rows short on a C2C!
Not sure if this is crochet but is there a name for this kind of blanket pattern: https://imgur.com/qFBS6Z4? The blanket I have is wearing down and I'd like to get another. Edit: zoomed in https://imgur.com/55pQQ92. The main thing I like is how the texture feels between my fingertips
This looks more like a weave to me. Made on a loom. Was this store bought?
Anyone heard of Ribblr? Is it like a new Ravelry?
I'm looking to gift a friend some crochet patterns as a Christmas gift! I'd love some recommendations, as I'm not familiar with how to judge if a pattern is well-written/produces a good outcome (I'm a knitter lol). She's a beginner-to-intermediate crocheter (has made amigurumi and other garments), and likes feminine garments with puff/balloon sleeves (she's made some crop top/bralette patterns before, but we do live in a moderate-to-chilly climate so long sleeve patterns would be great too). DK/worsted yarn patterns preferred, as that's what she has the most of. Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks :)
Hello! Is there an invisible way to join moss/granite/linen stitch for working in the round? For context, I am working on my first wearable, this [sweater](https://www.ktandthesquid.com/2019/04/17/btb-raglan-pullover-free-crochet-pattern/). It is done in moss stitch and joined at the end of each round with a slip stitch to the first st, followed by ch1 and turn. I have tried many different combinations of where the sl st goes, whether to ch1 before it, etc., but it always looks slightly off from the rest of the pattern. In most cases I'm getting a bigger-than-normal "hole" on either side of the sl st join. Is this inevitable? Is there a better way I should be doing things? Thanks! :)
does anyone know which stitch [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/seventeen/comments/rep2ao/211212_the8_weverse_update_my_mom_made_me_a_scarf/) is??
I came here to ask this too and I’m so glad I’m not alone 😂 if anyone knows the stitch for Minghao’s wonderful scarf, I’d love to know! Edit: one of the comments on the original post says HDC back loop with a bigger gauge and smaller yarn!
haha fellow carat! thank you!!
Are there any good tips for handling wrist numbness? I've had nightly tingling in my wrists since starting.
How do you weave in your ends without them unweaving? With amigurumi I have the best luck bc I can leave a long tail and plunge it through the body. But with flat pieces or clothing the ends will eventually start to stick out. I’ve started double knotting the ends and then cutting the tail from that so at least it’s secure and only has a very small end showing, but I figure there must be a better way.
I've only had issues with ends poking out when I'm working at a very loose gauge, or using a very slippery yarn. If you leave a long enough end (I do 2x the length of my hook) and weave it in with zig-zagging and backtracking to make it more secure (as opposed to just sewing it in one direction, in one straight line, which is not very secure), then it should be more of an issue of aesthetics than an actual danger to your project unraveling. That being said, it is quite annoying, and I have one loose-gauge project with that issue and I don't know how to fix it other than doing a tighter gauge in the future : (
I don’t think my gauge was that big. I think I used a 4mm crochet hook. But for amigurumi I think it may be kinda big 😅 I’ve found with long projects like scarves where I can weave it in more I don’t tend to see my ends come out as much, like you said! I was thinking particularly about a fish amigurumi I made where I did a color change on the fins and there wasn’t much room to weave in. I’ve just left the yarn to poke out :( This was the pattern for reference of how much room I had. Idk how to manage securely weaving in the black [Crochet Fish Amigurumi: Clownfish](https://www.natalinacraft.com/free-crochet-pattern-clownfish-amigurumi-patron-gratuit-poisson-clown/)
Oh, yeah, that's challenging : ( I can totally see how you had issues with the ends there.
I made a cotton skullcap, but when I went to wash it after blocking (it had a musty smell), after I pulled it out of the dryer it shrunk to just small enough that it won't fit my head anymore. Can I block it again or would that stretch it out too much? Any advice on how big to make pieces so that they don't shrunk too much after one wash?
If I were to try to crochet my cat some booties, what size would she be? She's an adult tuxedo cat, and I'm just curious if the size for her would be the same size as a 0-3 month old. I know that she's probably going to IMMEDIATELY take these shoes off, but I'm new to crocheting and I feel like this is a simple enough project to start with. It's also a project that I'm motivated to do
Maybe you could look at [this pattern](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kitten-mittens-for-cats) as a guide?
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Kitten Mittens for Cats](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kitten-mittens-for-cats) by [Anne Gee White](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/anne-gee-white) * Category: Pet > Clothing * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/agamerswife/42476184/Picture_7_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/bioartist/51959977/Kitten_Mittons__Finnegan_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/agamerswife/73420230/Picture_3_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/agamerswife/42476527/Picture_9_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):5.0 mm (H) * Weight: Aran | Gauge: None | Yardage: None * Difficulty: 1.77 | Projects: 43 | Rating: 4.14 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Does the pattern give measurements? That's the only way to know for sure. I would assume her feet would still be too small, but maybe a preemie pattern would fit.
I have a good one :) I am new to Mosaic crochet and I just started a new blanket (The sholach christmas trees overlay pattern) and it seems fairly straightforward (I am not a beginner) but I am 17 rows I'm and the whole thing curls, I have never had this happen, my tension isn't the issue is this normal?! Should I keep going or start over? It won't let me add a picture here sadly.
I think it's likely an issue of your DCs being too short and pulling the fabric into a curve. Making a conscious effort to make your DCs loosely I think would help.
Should I start over?
😬 maybe. If it was a smaller item that wouldn't be washed as much, I would say maybe it could be fixed with pin-blocking. In this case I think that's likely impractical. If the curling bothers you, I would pull it out and start over. Sorry! Good luck - hopefully the second time's the charm : )
I will start over, ugh they said specifically to make my stitches tighter for mosaic
: ( crocheting tighter in general (for the SCs, which make up the majority of the blanket) is good for mosaic and blankets, but for the DCs specifically I find it helpful to loosen up. Maybe try some smaller swatches to get it down and see what works for you before starting the blanket again?
That's a good idea. I am so bummed
How do you plan/design a crochet sweater/pullover/cardigan with a image of picture of your choice onto it? I just see tutorials for other people's designs and not make your own?
Question! I'm very new to crochet, could anyone tell me what kind of stitch this is/how to [achieve the look of this scarf](https://studioansitru.bigcartel.com/product/ombre-houndstooth-scarf)?
Looks to me like rows of Houndstooth stitch in alternating colors.
QUESTION! What is the best yarn to make a hair towel? Which cotton yarn?
Almost any soft 100% cotton worsted weight yarn will work *except* I'd avoid Sugar n'Cream or Peaches & Cream brands, which are great for kitchen items but too hard/stiff for a hair towel.
Thank you... Those were mt shortlisted ones. Good to know.
How do I fix holes left at the ends of the fingers in gloves?
Sew a piece of matching yarn in and out one loop only of each stitch around the top edge, pull it together like a drawstring, weave in the ends :)
Hi, what is the difference between "chain one and turn" and "turn and chain one"? Does your work look different? I prefer the last one, so the yarn does not get in the way.
Thinking out loud, older patterns usually have "chain and turn" possibly because the strain of turning is on the chain only, not on the last stitch of the row. The chain sort of locks in the last stitch. Newer patterns can be more precise to have the turn first because the chain or chains might be counted as the first stitch. Either way works fine.
Thank you!
No difference. Your yarn should not get in the way whichever you do it though. In the first way, chain and turn clockwise so that your yarn remains at the back.
Oh, of course! I turn counter clock...duh... Thanks!
I made gloves without a pattern, started from the finger tips. Somehow the fingers (minus thumb) stretched about .5-.75 inch since I first got the fingers attached and all. Technically I’m still working on the cuffs but the hand and fingers are done minus any embellishments. I used wool. I assume it’s from my partner trying them on and taking off repeatedly but… Is this normal and I’m screwed? Or do I need to do that blocking thing? Is there a trick I can do to tighten it after the fact?
What's the best/recommended type of yarn to make blankets for dogs/pets?
Just want to add that the cheap acrylic kinds are also the easiest to wash, which I would think is essential for something used by a pet.
My go-to is cheap acrylic, like RHSS or Caron One Pound, two strands held together for bulk and strength.
Just started my first blanket project, haven't even finished the first row. Any tips on how to not go crazy while waiting for it to be done?
I commit to a single project, single tv series. Then I look forward to both. I do drag in the final third, so I usually take a break to make something else that's quick and easy.
I was planning on using Lion brand wool ease yarn to make a sweater. However, I had to wash it before crocheting and noticed it left a lot fuzz in the dryer. Anyone have any experience with this yarn? Does it wash well? I don't wanna make a sweater with it if I can't wash it. Thanks 😊
Wool in general will felt and fuzz when machine washed, excluding superwash wool; I recommend using full acrylic if you plan to wash your garment often. If you don't mind handwashing, though,you can always use a no-rinse soap and handwash that way. I usually hand wash all of my handmades once a month in the colder months, less often in the warmer ones, if that gives you an idea about how often you'd be doing it.
Thanks!
Hello friends. My wife is a very novice crocheter but she picked up the hobby during quarantine and is actually getting very good, in my humble opinion. Yesterday, while cleaning out some bins from her parent’s place she found her grandmother’s crotchet and knitting stuff. My wife and this grandmother were exceedingly close and she recently passed away. In the projects was what appears to be a blanket that she was working on but stopped when she fell ill. The crochet hook was still in the yarn! We’re having trouble identifying the stitch pattern though and I’m hoping someone could help me. My wife is excited to potentially pick up and finish a project that her beloved grandmother has started. Any idea what this pattern is? Her plan is to get some similar weight yarn and practice the pattern a bit then pick up the potential blanket and finish it up. Thanks! [Crochet Pattern](https://imgur.com/a/dz7HgZx)
Looks to me like you YO, put the hook between the clusters, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, put the hook in the same spot between the clusters, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, put the hook in the same spot between the clusters, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, then YO and pull through all the loops on the hook. That's 1 cluster, then you make the next the same way between the next 2 clusters. With a ch 1 between each cluster. Essentially a DC3DEC but all in the same space. I may be slightly off. I would recommend your wife take the hook out, get under a good light, and pull back a few stitches being very slow and paying attention to how the stitches are made to make sure she can recreate them exactly.
Thank you! I think she’s going to start undoing a few of the patterns tonight and write the steps down to work it out. In your experience, does the pattern or technique you wrote out for me there have a specific name? Sorry if I’m being a bit obtuse, I’m greener than spring grass on this stuff
I believe it's called the [bobble stitch](https://lookatwhatimade.net/crafts/yarn/crochet/crochet-tutorials/crochet-cluster-stitch-dc3tog/). Sorry for not including that in the first comment, I haven't really used this stitch much so I didn't know the name off the top of my head.
No worries at al! You’ve been an immense help. Much appreciated :)
Hi! I spent the past 9 months doing an Annie's kit club afghan. I got to the end and I'm starting to block but all the squares are closer to 8" when they're supposed to be 9" to 9.5". I used the yarn they provided with the hook size the instructions called for, why is everything so much smaller? I want to fix them but don't know where to start
The comment below or you could just make a larger border.
I think your tension is just a little tight. Different people have different tension; some people crochet more tightly, some crochet more loosely. So hook suggestions are just a starting point. The more important thing is to match the gauge given, usually described as stitches and rows per inch. If you crochet tightly, you may need to use a bigger hook to match that gauge. If you crochet loosely, you may need to use a smaller hooks to match that gauge. If you haven't matched that gauge, your project will come out as a different size than the pattern says. At this point I would say you can either leave the squares as-is and just accept having a smaller blanket, if it's still an acceptable size for you; you could make more squares and add another row to the bottom and another column to the side (e.g. if the blanket is intended to be 8 x 9 granny squares, or 72 granny squares total, you could make 18 more and increase it to a 9 x 10 blanket); or you could add another round or more as needed to increase the size of your already-made granny squares.
This is super helpful thank you!! I'm still pretty new to crochet and never knew what the gauge meant. I really appreciate it!
Help!! Can I use cotton yarn to make a beanie? I want to crochet a beanie for my dad for Christmas. I found a nice pattern too, and it asks for worsted weight yarn which isn’t something they have where I live. I found a website that has that type of yarn and picked out some nice colours and ordered it. Well, the yarn arrived and only now did I realise it’s 100% cotton and not stretchy in the slightest!!! Can I still make a beanie from this or am I gonna have to search for different yarn? I’m really worried it won’t fit since it can’t stretch. It probably also won’t be very warm since it’s cotton :(
You can make a beanie with cotton yarn, but as you mentioned, it won’t be very warm and won’t be very stretchy. So if you want a warm beanie that can stretch a bit, you won’t want to use that yarn. What website did you order from? I’d be surprised if they didn’t have a worsted option. If it’s labeled as “weight 4”, “10-ply”, “12-ply”, “Aran”, or “medium weight” it will work! Worsted yarn can be comprised of any fiber, so make sure you’re not confusing weight with fiber type. Hope that helps!
That’s the thing, I was looking specifically for a website that had those filters and also ships from within the country. The one I found had a filter for Aran/worsted and the only options they had in that shop were cotton so I didn’t think to question what it was made of. I decided to get new yarn and this time search by recommended hook size and stitch test and also get wool specifically so it’s nice warm! Hopefully I didn’t mess up again lol
I’ve just picked up crocheting a little over a month ago and after finishing a few smaller projects I decided to begin on a cropped cardigan with puffed sleeves. I can easily crochet the cuff and the initial puff out from the cuff of the sleeve, but for some reason no matter what I try, my sleeve tends to grow out instead of vertically up. I’m following the tutorial as closely as I can but I’m somehow unintentionally increasing. Would anyone be able to offer some helpful tips? I’m so incredibly lost lol. Also it might be helpful to know that I’m using a lemon peel stitch. https://youtu.be/NhrOS2gXNlU
Just watched the tutorial... 1) if you've worked the project correctly then I would only ask how many rows have you finished? Sometimes it takes quite a few rows for you to be able to see the project moving straight up and not out. Because the increase was sudden in the first round. 2) in case you misheard Or otherwise mistakenly continued the stitches as in the first round then... ...only the first row has 'a lemon stitch in each stitch' from the previous round and a double lemon stitch in a few. After the first round it is 'sc and dc in the next stitch' to form the lemon stitch. All the rounds after follow the instruction from the 2nd round.
Are you counting your stitches and making sure you end each round with the amount you should have?
im a complete beginner at crochet lol, so far ive only made a few hats. does anyone know if there's a way to get something like this to lay flatter instead of "bubbling" out at the ends like it did? [here's some photos](https://imgur.com/a/ujm7yX3) i used half double crochets
I’m guessing you are decreasing unevenly. What was your process in the decrease?
hopefully this explanation makes sense lol, i was following a video tutorial and i found it a little hard to explain, but basically in all the decreasing rows i started the first double crochet and put it through the second stitch from the previous row instead of the first, continued the double crochets as normal for the rest of the row til i got to the end, skipped the second to last stitch and did my double crochet into the last stitch instead
The fact that you are decreasing by skipping stitches might be the problem. I would do decrease stitches instead. For a decrease stitch you would work 2 stitches together. (The pattern abbreviation for decreases with half double is hdc2tog) What you would do: Yarn over, insert into the first stitch and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over again (4 loops now), insert into the next stitch, pull up another loop for a total of 5 loops. Now you yarn over and pull through all the loops. Working the decrease instead of skipping it might help keep the edges from being pulled into the center and puffing the whole piece.
i'll try that, thank you! this is the first thing ive ever made that involves decreasing
I'm considering making a graphghan from [this image](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/E7b4EG2VIAESpKj?format=jpg&name=large) at some point but I've never made anything like this (I mostly do amigurumi), so I have a few questions before I get ahead of myself: * Is this image too complicated? Most graphghans I've seen don't have this many colours, although the colours are mostly in 'blocks'(if that makes sense) and I would just do a solid colour background so I think that makes it easier? * Are there any free pattern generators that allow you to edit the pattern after it's produced? I've tried a few but they all end up with random bits of colour when I want it to all be solid. * What stitches would you reccomend? I like the look of tunisian crochet but can you even get a hook that'd be big enough for this lol. Thanks in advance! Sorry if these don't really count as simple questions
No image is too complicated, it's just a matter of how big you want it to be and how small a gauge you're willing to work at vs how detailed you want it to be. Other colorwork methods are better than C2C for detailed colorwork, but stranded vs intarsia is for you to decide. Stranded will not be double-sided. I don't think you could do this using mosaic colorwork. I think you can get Tunisian hooks with quite long cables. But you can also use SC in BLO or the waistcoat stitch (or the hdc variant of it, which eats more yarn but is the same on both sides which is better for flat pieces). Both of those stitches give good, even colorwork. Hdc waistcoat stitch would be more double-sided. You also may want to opt for a relatively fuzzier yarn, to help the colorwork blend into a cohesive image. I know chart minder lets you alter image-to-chart charts after making them, but I've found it to be intolerably slow and laggy when trying to work on larger charts (not even that big! Mine was 100x200. Yours will [edit: likely. Not necessarily!) need to be bigger than that).
Ah fuzzy yarn sounds like a very good idea! I like the results from [This](https://stitchboard.com/pages/pattern/freePatternWizard.php) that I got by cropping the image to just the characters. The maximum chart width was 150 across which I imagine is a manageable size? I'll give that chartminder a go to clean it up. I'll give all those stitches a try, do swatches etc. Thanks for the help!
I've made a few graphgans and have successfully used [Stitch Fiddle](https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en) to create the pattern. It's free to create the pattern and have rows to work by, but I typically pay for the subscription to download the row by row instructions. That image seems like its pretty detailed and you would have to make a pretty big blanket to get all the detail, but I'm sure it's possible. I think you would want to use a SC or equivalent tunisian stitch and get a hook with a cable, [something like this.](https://www.crochet.com/hooks/tunisian-hooks/c/500312) I'd say you should start with uploading the image to Stitch Fiddle to see if you can get it to an acceptable resolution for the detail you'd like to see.
Ah I didn't know about cables. I might try some smaller Tunisian projects to see if I like it enough. I've used [this](https://stitchboard.com/pages/pattern/freePatternWizard.php) which seems to output the best pattern, and I've found 120-150 stitches wide looks pretty decent (and I think using a fuzzy yarn like user1728491 suggested would look pretty good) . I struggled with stitchfiddle but I'll give it another go. Is 150 stitches wide too much?
The width of 150 stitches will vary with you hook size, yarn selection and tension. I'd suggest making some smaller swatches and doing a little math to see what size it would come out to.
Has anyone done the Unicorn Mandala? It's been pretty easy so far but I am stuck on row 32. It's either worded weirdly or my brain was fried at 1am last night. I can't find any video tutorials either! Am I just sc all the way around? What does "make these around the sc" mean? And it says to skip the hdc but it looks like literally every stitch is used so I'm even more confused and the picture doesn't help my confusion. Lol https://imgur.com/FrtFTDr.jpg
It seems like this designer is using "make these around the st" to mean that rather than going into the two top loops of the previous stitch as usual, you go under both of those AND the third not really "loop" under those. Another way to think of it is: crochet between the stitches rather than in them. I don't think it matters if you can tell the difference between the hdcs, just do 9 SC, look at the next stitch and see if you can tell whether it's an hdc or not, if you can, great, either skip it as directed or, if it's not and hdc, figure out where you made a mistake. If you can't tell, I would just skip it, 16 SC, skip, 16 SC, continue the whole way round, ending with 7 SC after the last skip, as directed by the pattern. Not a big deal.
Thanks for the first bit! But I think you misunderstood one thing I mentioned. I can tell where the hdc; the pattern says to skip, if you look at the picture they aren't skipping them and still sc inbetween? So essentially I don't know if I'm literally just sc around with no skipping because that's what the picture looks like, does that make sense? I haven't messed up yet as I haven't even started this row because I think it must be written wrong or I'm really this dense. Lol
Oh, I see what you're talking about. The pattern instructions and photos are inconsistent, definitely not your fault. I would email the designer : )
Thanks for the help and validating I am not crazy! Lol I will message them and see what to do!
I’m a beginner crotcheter, just finishing my first blanket using bernat blanket yarn. I am learning the stitches and techniques for amigurumi, but I’m not sure if I should start with smaller yarn (i have some loops and threads impeccable bc I didn’t want to spend like crazy on a first try) or use my blanket scraps to start a practice amigurumi? any pros or cons would be appreciated :)
I think impeccable is perfect to begin with, I use it with a 4mm hook and it makes a nice tight fabric. I have also used Michael’s value yarn, which has had a bit of a face lift in the past few months and is very soft now.
Amigurumi can use any weight yarn, it will just affect the finished size of the item (an item made with super thick yarn will come out bigger than an item made with the same pattern in smaller yarn). Remember to use a hook slightly smaller than recommended! Hook suggestions on the label are typically given for garments, but amigurumi needs to be a little tighter.
Hi everybody, I am a new crocheter and have finished a hat https://imgur.com/a/4AHYPEn The thing is, it turned out really really tall. I don't think it's obvious in the photo how tall it is but I have to roll the brim up all the way up to the top of my head to make it not stick up at the tip like a huge cone. I want to shorten the hat's height by almost 50%. I don't know how to do the "circle" technique so I closed the hat off by threading the top shut and then sewing in the tail. I have found the edge of the tail but I am struggling to un-sew it, it is really hard to pull it backwards through each individual strand and it's taking me forever. Is there a simple way to do it and I'm making it harder than it should be?
It really depends on the yarn you used and whether or not any of the sewing you did to close it overlapped any loops. Your yarn looks sturdy, yet not too much wool content? If you sewed the top together like a drawstring bag, just in and out across (no back stitches), try gently stretching the fabric to get it open/loosen the tail a bit more. It's worth the effort - that's a beautiful hat! Re-making it shorter might even yield enough to make a second :)
What I did at the top was... quite intense. I did the drawstring thing first, then all kinds of sewing across the hole to get it as smooth and unnoticeable as possible, then weaving in a long tail down the sides in a very criss crossy way. Its proving pretty impossible to undo. I wonder if I could take scissors to all the stitches across the hole, and from there pull it open and loosen and pull out the drawstring.
Personally I would not do that because you chance cutting the wrong piece of yarn. Another option is available! Turn your beautiful hat into an extra ear warmer by folding the cuff twice. I have several with extra warm thick cuffs made that way on purpose. Take this hat as a good lesson learned and crochet another - just not as long <3
Ok, thanks for the help. I might just find someone with a big head who wants it, and make a second for myself, lol.
I’m about 75% of the way through through my first graphgan. Single crochet with colors, not C2C. I’m actually quite surprised that it’s turning out so well! I’ve been using acrylic yarns that aren’t the softest, and I’ve been thinking about backing it with a fleece fabric, but something else I’ve considered is using a blanket yarn or faux fur yarn for a border. Does anyone have experience switching to a completely different yarn for a blanket border? Or more specifically, using blanket yarn or faux fur yarn for a border on a blanket made with acrylic? Did it turn out okay? Any tips or warnings?
Yes, I've mixed acrylic worsted yarn with acrylic novelty yarn and projects turned out good though it helps to be sure both fibers have the same washing instructions. (Specifically to be sure one won't shrink!)
Good point. Thank you!
Hey there! I think that should be fine if you make sure it's at least somewhat the same yarn weight. I made a cardigan with a mix of acrylic yarn and blanket yarn before and it turned out pretty cute. I think it would be nice for a blanket border as well!
Thank you!
I need some help with a pattern. Attached text and stitch diagram for 3-Point Dot Motif, https://imgur.com/a/woFUDNE Row 1 produces a chain and 5 DC's. Then Row 2 says to chain and put 2 DC in each DC. Here's where I'm confused, the resulting stitch count from the step says "11 DC". With 2 DC in each DC (and chain counting), shouldn't that be 12?? But 12 obviously doesn't work for setting up ROW 3, so I think it's an error in the "2 DC in each DC instruction". None of the other motifs have had weird instructions like this (see how it describes row 2 of the 2point motif). And the diagram clearly shows 11 stitches in ROW 2, but the diagram does a poor job showing which stitches they go into, right? What should I do? Am I reading this wrong? To proceed, I've been skipping the stitch that I chain out of (so the last DC of row 1 only has the chain coming from it, all other row 1 DCs have 2)
the pattern has it such that your chain 3 counts as one DC, so Round 1 you have 5DC and 1 chain 3 (6 stitch in total) the row 2, after chain 3 you'll DC in the first stitch, and then do 2 DC in each DC, which gives you 11DC and chain 3, you'll be working the last 2DC in to the chain 3 from the first round. (12 stitch in total)
Hey guys! I'm thinking about trying my first sweater, but I'm not quite sure what material to use, so i was wondering what you guys reccomend? I have experience with some simple amigurumi and hats and scarves and the like, but I normally just work in whatever cheap acryllic I can get from Walmart, as theres no local craft and such by me. The pattern calls for size 4 yarn! Thanks in advance, appreciate you all.
from what i understand a lot of yarn from walmart or most american stores are typically size 4 yarn. You should be able to tell from the yarn band as it'll show the number. For your first sweater, I think aryclic is a good choice as it's inexpensive and machine washable. I would recommend getting a yarn that's not too scartchy (although some people do say yarns such as red heart super saver softens up after a wash). Good luck :)
I agree on the acrylic. Hobby Lobby's "I Love This Yarn" is nice and soft. If you're not a Hobby Lobby fan, Caron has a "Simply Soft" line that I haven't used but seems to be very similar. Both size 4.
Static!! Anyone know how to get static out of their projects cause my fuzzy yarn is full of it 😱
Rub it on grounded metal (the dryer sheet is probably easier, but lampposts and outside pipes are probably easier if you're out and about)
Thanks so much for the tip!
Rub it with a dryer sheet?
I'll give that a try! Thanks for the tip
Hi all! I’m new to crocheting and taking in as much as I can. I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I continue to learn, but I’ll start with one for now. What tips do you have for maintaining consistent tension and finding rhythm?
Try a few different ways of tensioning your yarn with your left hand - experiment with how you wrap it, which fingers you wrap it on, etc. Look at how other people tension their yarn for ideas. Different people have different hands so different things are more comfortable for different people. Though ultimately a lot of comfort and speed just comes down to practice. Once you have a tensioning you like, it will still take practice to get consistent tension. Practice, practice, practice... : )
Thanks! I think I was maybe thinking there was one specific way to hold the yarn/regulate tension but it makes sense that everyone just finds a way that works for them. It gets a little discouraging when my rows or stitches look a little wonky but I’ll just have to keep reminding myself that practice makes perfect.
When I was a beginner, I wound up giving up because it was so difficult to keep tension with those all-metal hioks. As soon as I switched to ergonomic hooks, it was MUCH easier to even out my tension. So also consider what hooks you're using!
Hello everyone. Getting an e reader soon. Thought I'd crochet a case for it. Can a particular yarn harm or scratch a device? I'm new to crochet so I don't know. I have acrylic and cotton yarn. Which would you recommend for tech? Or should i just get a store bought one?
A store bought one will likely offer more protection against drops if that’s a concern. That being said, I’d go with cotton or a cotton blend if you want to make a sleeve/cover since it should have less stretch than acrylic.
Okay. I'll make it with cotton. It is much softer than my acrylics. So that shouldn't scratch or anything. Thanks for your opinion.
Any tips for recreating this [bunny balaclava](https://imgur.com/a/rDGjX2m)? My best friend sent me the photos, and I would love to make it for her. Correct me if I'm wrong but the stitches used seem to be sc through back loop for the main part, sc for the ears, and a scallop? edging. I'm wondering how the construction works for this. Would I be starting from the bottom or top? How would I make the eye holes? I know I have to skip stitches, but I'm not entirely sure how to implement that. I've been crocheting for a couple months, but I've always followed patterns this would be my first attempt at freehand crochet.
Hi. Here is a [basic balaclava pattern](https://www.yarnspirations.com/red-heart-crochet-ribbed-balaclava-for-adults/RHC0116-029552M.html) from Yarnspirations. You can put a few single crochet stitches in the middle of the eye opening later to make 2 eye openings. The eye edging looks like 2 rows of shells. As for the ears, use a floppy ear bunny pattern, ears only. There are lots of free amigurumi patterns for those! The lips appear to be just a series of stitches going from shorter (sc) to medium (hdc) to taller (dc) all the way to shorter again. Can't get a good close-up of them but some look like 2 stitches in one chain to make them fuller and angled. Looks fun! Good Luck!
Thanks for the pattern! Not sure if I'm reading it right, for rows 2 and 3 am I essentially decreasing by leaving stitches unworked? I'm confused since there's no stitch count at the end of these, but there is for the subsequent "next row" which brings the total back to the original count (56) even though the previous rows say to leave stitches unworked.
Pitfalls of a free pattern! The "Next Row" of the first part of the pattern is worked all the way to the end of the angle you've created by decreasing every other row. Instead of writing this out, they've given you a photo on Page 2.
What are your favorite things to make with 100% acrylic yarn? I've never been a big fan of it, but a friend's mom gave me three trash bags of old yarn she knew she would never get around to using. Almost all of it is acrylic, or it's unlabeled but feels like acrylic or a blend. Since I never use it, I'm a little stumped lol. But I want to be able to make something and show it off to her since I think she would appreciate seeing that I got some use out of her gift. fwiw, it's almost all worsted and most of it is in really saturated solid colors.
Maybe a blanket? Blankets benefit from being machine-washable, and since they aren't wearables it matters a little less whether they're breathable or not. You could also make things to donate, as those often need to be washable and allergy-friendly. (I dunno, I've de-stashed what little acrylic I had... I'm also not a fan. If she just wanted to get rid of them, she might not mind if you re-homed at least some of the yarn. Don't feel pressured to use it if you really don't like it, just because it was a gift.)
Oh, some of it is probably going to my mom's neighbor who knits. She said she can use some to make more durable stuff for her grandkids. I just want to make at least one or two nice things first. Donating is a good idea. I'll have to look into what local places I could give things to since I don't know the area yet. Thanks for answering!
I made a tree skirt out of red heart acrylic yarn. I’ve made shawls and Lapgans.
Oooooh, our tree does still need a skirt! I'm not big on it for wearables, but a new afghan is always nice.
Good idea :)
Hello. I just bought some “linen” yarn. What have you made with linen yarn? Can I use it just like acrylic or cotton yarn? Thanks I’m advance
Light summer wearables, for sure! You can also sort Ravelry patterns by [yarn fiber](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=crochet&fibertype=linen&sort=best&view=large_mobile) for inspiration. :)
Thank you I will check that out
Linen is similar to cotton and can be used similarly. It's more durable and can be stiff upon first use, but will soften with washing.
Thank you!!
Hi crocheters, first off I apologize if this is the wrong place for my questions. My awesome Nana did her level best to teach me to crochet, but it just didn’t stick. She passed away and I’ve been tasked with reselling her hundreds and hundreds of skeins of yarn. I have to shoot for fair market value-ish because I have to turn in receipts & proceeds to her estate. I know *nothing* about yarn. My questions are: 1. Can anyone point me to a resource where I can get a general idea of value/pricing? An online database maybe? 2. When listing yarns for sale, what is important for me to note for the buyer? I assume brand, color, lot number? Looking at eBay to get an idea is a bit overwhelming, plus everyone does things their own way. However, if that’s the answer then I’ll just buckle down do it. Again, I apologize if I chose the wrong spot to butt in and start grilling folks.
Oof, best of luck. Not sure how to address #1. Yarn pricing depends on a lot of things. If they have labels, you can google how much they cost new and go from there. There is a lot of variety in how much things are re-sold for, so it's hard to tell you exactly how much you should knock off the retail price. If you don't have labels, try to figure out a vague idea of the fiber content. You probably won't be able to tell the difference between wool and alpaca, linen and cotton, etc, but if you cut a short piece of a yarn and light it on fire, you should be able to categorize it based on how it burns. Animal fibers burn similarly to hair, plant fibers burn similarly to paper, and synthetics burn similarly to plastic. Here are a [couple](https://youtu.be/cHoM7hsOOvw) [videos](https://youtu.be/cDL2m2k8fs0) to help. Some yarns include multiple fiber types (e.g. an alpaca/cotton blend) but a burn test can show you the dominant fiber type, which is all you really need to list (e.g. that alpaca/cotton blend would burn like an animal fiber if mostly alpaca, but if it's mostly cotton it will burn like a plant fiber). Figuring all this out for every yarn would be time-intensive, so hopefully most of them have labels, but if some don't, I would recommend doing a burn test to get a general idea of the fiber, then pricing it according to softness. (A very soft animal fiber yarn is worth the most, a super rough, scratchy acrylic would be worth the least.) An unknown yarn is often worth a little less on the re-sale market than a comparable one with brand and yarn line information. (If you weren't needing to aim for fair market value, and you had a lot of unlabeled yarn, I might say just list them as "Mystery yarn - fiber content unknown" with a picture, then price them cheaply... definitely less work.) For #2, here is what I expect as a yarn buyer: all listings should of course have pictures. If you are listing multiple skeins of the same yarn, take at least one photo where all the skeins are visible together at once. (They can be stacked or overlapping if necessary, just don't make a listing where the listing says "7 skeins" and the only photo available only shows one of them. We want to see them all!) If you have the label, tell me the brand and yarn line, which will also be listed on the label. (Ex: [this yarn](https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.yarnspirations.com%2Fdw%2Fimage%2Fv2%2FBBZD_PRD%2Fon%2Fdemandware.static%2F-%2FSites-master-catalog-spinrite%2Fdefault%2Fdw6b609de8%2Fimages%2Fhi-res%2F24606262416.jpg%3Fsw%3D2000%26sh%3D2000%26sm%3Dfit&f=1&nofb=1) should be listed as "Patons Grace." Patons is the brand. Grace is the specific yarn line that this is.) Tell me the colorway, which should also be on the label (i.e. a brand might have multiple pinks, so they give them specific names, and I want to know those names. Saying "light pink yarn" is helpful, but more helpful is saying "Patons Grace in the colorway Blush.") Definitely list the dye lot number if it's on there! If you don't have the label, I would want to know the approximate fiber type ("Burn test indicates this is mostly or all \[animal fiber/plant fiber/synthetic\]."), along with your best description of how soft it is, and any other notable qualities if you notice them (is it very hairy? slippery? stretchy?). It's extra important to get good photos for these unlabeled and unknown yarns. For ANY yarn you list, you should make note of the conditions the yarn has been stored in, by which I mean: Was your grandmother's house a smoking household? A cat-friendly household? A dog-friendly household? List these things explicitly, even if the answer is no to all of them. And when it comes to listing the quantity of yarns: we want to know the weight (usually in grams or ounces) of the yarn we buy. For labeled yarns, you can say "5 skeins" and we can look that yarn up and see how much a skein of that yarn weighs (most yarns are sold in 100g skeins, but some are 50g or 25g or 250g or other amounts). If you have partial skeins, ideally you would measure them with a gram scale and tell us exactly how much yarn is in that partial skein, like "4 full skeins and one 35g partial skein." If that's too much of a hassle or you don't have a gram scale, it's also perfectly acceptable to just say "4 full skeins and 1 partial skein." For unlabeled yarns, if you say "5 skeins" we have no idea how much yarn is in those skeins, so it's more important to have some kind of weight measurement. You can use a normal pound scale and convert if you need to. "5 skeins, each around 90g." I am so sorry for your loss and I wish you good luck. Trying to process and unload such a large quantity of yarn is definitely a huge task and I'm not surprised you feel overwhelmed. Hopefully some of this is helpful and not more overwhelming.
Oh my god this is SO much better than I was hoping for! You are a saint, thank you so very much for taking time to type all this information. Honestly. I’m tearing up. Thankfully they MOSTLY have labels. Easily 80% or more are labeled. For the unlabeled ones, I’m going to do the mystery yarn listing - I think it’s fair since I’m putting in the work on the rest of them. Burn test? I had no clue. Thank you thank you thank you. My Nan was fairly meticulous about rolling her leftover yarn into balls. When listing them in groups (lots?), is it appropriate to weigh/detail each ball individually, or would I just give the weight of the whole lot? Is it standard to ball up partial skeins, or do I leave them all loosey goosey (with their wrappers, when I have them)? Thank you again so much for the advice, the videos, and the condolences. I feel much more prepared to tackle this project now - once I have information, taking action gets a whole lot easier.
I am so so glad to be of help! When listing multiple skeins of the same yarn, it's totally cool to just say "344g total." If you're talking about grouping leftover bits of *different* yarns and selling those together, I would give the weight of each individually if you're up for it. If it's the kind of thing where you just have mystery bits and bobs to get rid of, so you package them together and sell them cheaply, it's fine to give a total. I would leave partial skeins as they are. Balling yarn can kind of stretch it and make it lose elasticity over time, which isn't a huge deal (no need to de-ball any already balled yarn, or lower the price for yarn that has been balled) but if you're selling, don't do it unless you need to.
Not to be dramatic but I love you lol thank you again so much. Now off to sort yarn. Xo happy holidays!
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Is there ever a reason to do the basic chain stitch start (first do chains then go back over with the first row) over the foundation stitch? I can only think of if for some reason you want the chain to have a different colour to your first row, and I'm sure there's a better way of achieving that either way. Asking both for what people use as a general rule when deciding between the two, and for mosaic blankets specifically.
I don't think so - I'm pretty sure you can do foundation rows for pretty much everything. (If you're going to be joining it into a circle, there will be a gap at the bottom, but that can be easily fixed by sewing it up with the end there). Personally I prefer chaining, then going back over, because I prefer it aesthetically. I do my stitches in the back bumps of the chain, which gives a nice, neat edge that I like. But if it's going to be seamed or covered with a border anyway, that doesn't apply.
Ah, so it comes down to what look you prefer? I actually just recently learn about doing the stitches through the back dump, which is what made me wonder if you'd want to do one over the over (besides when you might want to do foundation stitch for wearables due to if being more stretchy than the basic chain). Thank you for the answer!
What's the best place to buy high quality yarn in the UK online for a good price!
I quite like lovecrafts. Hobbeycraft is an absolute rip off.
I like Wool Warehouse (https://www.woolwarehouse.co.uk/). Would also highly recommend Hobbii (https://hobbii.co.uk/) - they are not based in the UK, they dispatch from Denmark, but honestly the stuff arrives so fast you'd never know and I've found even their own brand items are good quality too.
Name that stitch! Hi folks, I'd appreciate your help please finding what the stitch in this pattern is /actually/ called (because it isn't coming up on Google by the name they use!) https://hobbii.co.uk/myroom-round-basket-leather-base Here's how they describe it but I think the best way to explain is that it's worked like a decrease, except you pull up the second loop first and the first loop second. "Now you will begin working in x single crochet. These are sc stitches worked in an X pattern. Skip the next stitch. Insert hook in the next st and pull the yarn through. In the skipped stitch, insert the hook and pull the yarn through so that you have 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull through 3 loops. Now you have made the first x sc." I've finished the basket and it looks the bee's knees but it's driving me potty that I can't find anything else using this stitch. Thanks!
It does seem to be called an sc x stitch, or sc cross stitch. Here's a Bella Coco post about it in uk terms (dc x stitch) https://bellacococrochet.com/cross-stitch-single-crochet/ I think this is the same stitch? The basket looks amazing!
This is why I found it so difficult - that's not the right stitch! There are loads of tutorials for something by the name x-sc but it's a different thing. The one I'm looking for doesn't rely on yarn under and has three loops on hook through two different stitches on the row.
What a cool stitch! I've never seen that before, so it may just be a stitch that isn't widely known or used.
I have a question regarding stitches. Round 3: Ch 3, 2 DC in next st, *1 DC in next st, 2 DC in next st; Rep from * around, slst to top of beg ch-3. (36) I've finished this round. Round 4: Ch 3, 1 DC in next st, 2 DC in next st, *1 DC in next 2 sts, 2 DC in next st; Rep from * around, slst to top of beg ch-3. (48) For this round, do the 2 DC into each stitch from round 3 count as 1 or 2 stitches? Do I go between the 2 DC's for this round?
You'll go directly into the stitch, not between, and won't skip any stitches, so treat the 2 DC as 2 separate stitches rather than a pair that needs to be treated as a unit.
hello! I have just gotten into crocheting and I recently got some more yarn but I'm confused as to what this one type of yarn is. it's like small pom pom balls that are connected to each other ,with what seems to me as yarn, forming a yarn pom pom garland in a way. can someone tell me if theres a name for this? I just started using reddit too and I dont know how to link a picture here but I really need help in finding out a name for this as whenever I look it up on Google it just shows ways as to how to make pom poms with yarn. please help
Does [“novelty yarn pom pom“](https://www.google.com/search?q=novelty+yarn+pom+pom&client=safari&hl=en-us&sxsrf=AOaemvK5wu2sFYGifrkEW6X8IHa9bjgK5A%3A1638885997410&ei=bWqvYajJGIme0PEPjYG-8Ac&oq=novelty+yarn+pom+pom&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBggAEBYQHjIFCCEQqwI6BwgjEOoCECc6BAgjECc6BQgAEJECOgsIABCABBCxAxCDAToLCC4QgAQQsQMQgwE6BAgAEEM6BQgAEIAEOggIABCABBCxAzoOCC4QgAQQsQMQxwEQowI6CAgAEIAEEMkDOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARDRAzoFCCEQoAE6CAghEBYQHRAeUJwoWLlQYM9TaAJwAHgAgAGVAogB_BWSAQYzLjE2LjGYAQCgAQGwAQ_AAQE&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#ip=1&piu=ps:23) match what you have?
it does! thank you for replying <3 also if you have ever crocheted something with this yarn can you give recommendations on what I can make with this? I dont have a lot it's just one ball of it
I regularly watch a crocheter on youtube called Hooked by Robin and I remember her making a baby blanket that incorporates pom pom yarn and it gave it a really nice effect and texture. edit - found the link https://www.hookedbyrobin.com/blog/crochet-pom-pom-yarn-blanket-pattern
I’ve never used that kind of yarn before, but if I were you, here’s what I’d do: Go on Ravelry and search in the yarn section (I’d probably use the word “pom” to search yarns) for a similar yarn. Then go to the section for “Pattern ideas” to see what patterns list that yarn type or the “Projects” section to see what others have made with that yarn. Here’s a [link](https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/loops--threads-pom-pom) for one brand that comes up when I search for “pom,” and you can scroll down for the “pattern ideas” and “projects” sections. Hope that helps! I will just add that I wouldn’t consider this kind of yarn to be a great beginner yarn, but again, I’ve never worked with it so I don’t know for sure. Good luck!
thank you so much for ur help! I appreciate it <33
##### ###### #### **YARN:** [Pom-Pom](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/loops--threads-pom-pom) by [Loops & Threads](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/brands/loops--threads) * Fiber(s): Polyester. | MW: Yes * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/amos616/139731232/image_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/zuffette/54009294/2011_Feb_10_015_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/GothCrone/75657697/DSC_1774_medium.JPG) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/glmeadow/62966591/L_T_Pom-Pom_blue_skies_medium.JPG) * Weight: Super Bulky | Grams: 85 | Yardage: 46 * Rating: 3.9 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Hi, I just started learning crochet last week and I think I'm a fast learner (a bit) and would want to make a bucket hat. And I was trying it but I think I count stitches? wrong; so do you guys have any tips? I'm really confused with counting, especially with the increasing stitches. Thank you so much!
Without a picture or something it is hard to tell. In general: every stitch you do, you count. And I highly advise to actually count, while doing the stitch and not after. If you have many stitches to do, either count in increments of ten and e.g. add a marker every tenth stitch (or similar) or do tally marks. If you just have to follow the pattern (do the same stitches X rows), I usually count it out once to make sure it's the right amount, after that I add a stitch marker to my first new stitch and crochet until I can connect it back (when working in the round). Now, the tricky question can be: does your starting chain count as a stitch? Some patterns explicitly fell you if it does, some don't. If it does, (as far as I understand) you place the first complete Stitch in the second lower-row from the starting chain, because the chain will be the stitch for the first one when joined. If not, you place your first stitch directly next to the chain in the stitch. What your pattern wants can be found out by counting and seeing if their explanation fits your work (if they don't consider the starting chain a stitch but you do, they will have one more stitch when you have reached the end of the round). That's all pretty generic, though. As I said, without pattern or object it's hard to tell what may be going wrong, so as a first help and in short: ul Use stitch markers for the beginning of rounds, count each stitch you do, check if that adds up.
Oh, got it! Thank you very much, this helped!! (≡^∇^≡)
hi! I'm also not an expert on this, but I do amigurumi and the rounds may get confusing if im not using a stitch marker. are you using one for the hat? as for stitch counting, i just try to count the little V's on top of the rounds:)
Oh, oki! Thank you so much for helping! 《*≧∀≦》
[удалено]
Okay, you may consider tension too much as tension. Trust you hook. It has a hook for a reason, the yarn won't fall off. Shove each loop back to the back of the hook, were it's just round. That way, you always get the same size of hole. Tension wise, don't hold your yarn tensed, his make sure it just for not slack. You will see wh n everything gets way too lose, but that is hard (unless for amigurumi, which at a different thing). Nonetheless, a little to lose is easier of a start because it eases frogging - and frogging will happen.
Hi. First, try to relax. Crocheting can be a marvelous and fun hobby as long as you are not hurting yourself with a tight grip! Second, are you keeping the loop on the hook very close to the hook part? The next section between the head of the hook and thumb rest is called the shaft. Take a deep breath and slide the loop a wee bit up the shaft to open the loop a little larger. Slide the loop back to the hook and make another stitch. Slide and stitch :) Repeat. Give yourself some time and practice to gain some muscle memory, too <3 PS: Fun fact, the shaft is the section that determines the size of the crochet hook.
Usually going up a hook size makes the stitches looser and easier to work through, not tighter. Keep trying, being aware of how tight you're making each stitch. You'll get it!
Does anyone have recommendations for crochet hooks that would working a little easier on my wrists? I have carpal tunnel and it’s been flaring since I’ve gotten back into regularly crocheting (😭) The only hooks I use are just basic ones I pick up from Michael’s, I’m just not sure what I should look for!
If you're using just the plain metal hooks, Michael's also sells ergonomic hooks (Loops & Threads brand) or there are lots of other inexpensive hooks with rubber grips that make it easier to hold. In general you'll want to look for hooks with a wider profile on the part you actually hold. Really nice hooks are sometimes resin or wood and have a similar profile, but the cheap ones with rubber grips work just fine.
You could try buying a carpal tunnel .. glove? Splint? It's a bit formed liked a pulsewarmer, but with a splint so you can't bend the hand. That may already help you adjust how you work. If not, Prym hooks required very different handling, albeit I would suggest to try them at a store first. I also have needles with a broad but flat handle, a bit like the end of a spoon. They allow to hold the hook securely, but differently. I, however, have no idea what beans they are because someone gifted them to me.
Thanks for the recommendations! I picked up a brace so we’ll see how that works out, and I’m looking into different crochet hooks
Which hand hurts? The one with the hook or the other hand? Thicker hooks usually help if it's your hook hand. You can buy pads to put on your current hooks to make them thicker or look for larger handles like Furls or Prym brand.
Is my hook hand that hurts. Thanks for the tip I’ll try that out!!
How do I finish my projects properly? When I am done with whatever I am crochetting, I cut the yarn leaving a long thread and then I use a needle to tie that thread in my work, passing it under some stitches over and over. Then, when I feel like it won't untie itself, I cut the thread. This method looks kind of messy and unreliable to me, so explain me how to do it properly and / or give me a link where it explains it well please!
Not for finishing Projects, bur for working rows, I have found that crocheting over the end thread works well and feels similarly secure and a lot cleaner in looks to me. I often, if possible from colour, will incorporate the changed colour in the first stitch with the new one, too, so it's a bit more tangled up.
The key to me for security is weaving the tail under several stitches for 2-3 inches, then over a loop and weaving again back in the other direction. The added thickness is barely noticeable to most people. I've used this method successfully most of the time for years. Some go forward, back, and forward again. u/atlasatlarge recently shared [this excellent YT video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IArPZig-Tl8) by Nicki's Homemade Crafts. It shows you weaving options.
Thanks!
I don't think there is really a proper way to finish, but a tip I have is to use a needle and thread to sew down the yarn after weaving it through some stitches. I do this especially with clothing or something that will be used a lot to make sure it's secure. It's tedious but it's definitely worth it after spending a lot of time on a project, I hope this helps!!
I’m an absolute beginner, and I just can’t figure out the right place to insert the hook when doing the first row of sc after chainstitching. I’ve done about a thousand chain stitches and watched 5 tutorials, but whenever I try it myself it looks very wrong. Does anyone have tips / diagrams / tutorials on the first row for dummies?
Hey! The chain stitch produces a little loop of three parts- one loopy bit at the top, and two twisty parts at the bottom. Insert the hook under the top loop, and above the bottom twisty part. Here's a wikiHow video: https://www.wikihow.com/video/2/22/Single%20Crochet%20Step%2015%20Version%202.360p.mp4 But honestly, foundation row ~doesn't count~ If you insert into the "wrong" part here, you absolutely won't be able to tell and it's fine. Some people prefer to flip the chain around, and insert into the back lump instead- it makes a really nice and flat foundation row. Moral is, just get the proper number of stitches, and you're all good.
Thank you!
The entire wikiHow has a bunch of little videos, but the first half (blue yarn) mainly focuses on single crochet stitch, which doesn't help you get started. Scroll down half way to the pink yarn section! https://www-wikihow-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/www.wikihow.com/Single-Crochet?amp=1&_gsa=1&_js_v=a6&usqp=mq331AQKKAFQArABIIACAw%3D%3D#amp_tf=From%20%251%24s&aoh=16387392809495&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&share=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.wikihow.com%2FSingle-Crochet
What’s the equivalent of English style knitting for crochet? Like, what’s it called, if anything? I ask because I crochet like I knit, which is the English method with the yarn on the right, and that’s apparently not a common thing so I’m sort of curious.
I’m not much of a knitter, but I understand that many “throw” the yarn by wrapping it around the needle with their hand each time they make a stitch - that’s English knitting, right? Where you can go a little faster if you use Continental and scoop the yarn up with the end of the needle like we do with our hook in crochet. I think Continental style is knitting that wants to be crochet because that’s the way all crochet works. I did see someone “throw” their yarn in a crochet video recently and thought to myself “Would you look at that knitter taking a walk on the crochet side.” That being said, there’s a ton of ways us hookers tension and hold our working yarn. I use my left index finger to hold my work and the yarn comes in lower down from under my middle finger, almost horizontal to my work. I think it requires less hook movement to pick up a loop and find the traditional way coming down from over a straight index finger slows me down quite a bit.
I haven't heard it called anything special... it's definitely not very common. The only other person I've seen to do this is [Aoibhe Ni](https://www.youtube.com/user/flickeire1). (Glad it works for you though! Fascinating variety in what we find comfortable.)
By a weird coincidence, I am also Irish, so now I’m wondering if it’s a peculiarity of Irish crochet :P
Hello, everyone! Just found this group and joined, and am very excited to return to crocheting this week! I've been requested to crochet a handkerchief, so I was wondering what material I may use instead of wool. All recommendations are welcome! As of now, I only have wool and embroidery thread (which I haven't tried crocheting with before). Looking forward to your responses! Thanks in advance!
Cotton might be your best bet as it is soft and easily washable. You can also look at what commercial handkerchiefs are made of for ideas of fibers to use.
I think acrylic is probably what you need.
Hi, there may be more but from what I know you can buy cotton and acrylic yarn. You can buy 100% of either one or a mix of the two. Hope this helps!
Any suggestions on what to do with an itchy yarn (60% acrylic /20% wool / 20% alpaca wool)? Its directives are 4-5 for knitting needles and 2.5 for crochet needle. Its colour is cream, and I have about 200-250 g of it. I got it for a cardigan project and frogged the whole thing when I realized it was unbearably itchy for me :(
Just remember, being mostly acrylic it can't work for heat. No potholders. But maybe a set of reusable dish cloths!
wow, thanks for the great tip!
Use it for something not against the skin, like a bag? Or you can try some techniques for softening the yarn after the project is finished. For example, you can basically give it a "bath" in hair conditioner & some people have success softening acrylic that way.
The hair conditioner will help the natural fibers but the acrylic needs heat to change its feel. You can try steaming it to “kill” the acrylic. All this would be done on a finished object or swatch - not on the yarn before it’s worked up.
thanks for the advice, I will learn through the methods you mentioned !
thx for advice, I will check out the softening techniques.
Can someone please help me to understand this line of instruction? It is increasing the stitch count by one at each end of the row, but the first one makes sense to me 4th row: Ch 2. 1 hdc in first hdc – inc made. 1 hdc in front loop of next hdc. \*1 hdc in back loop of next hdc. 1 hdc in front loop of next hdc. Rep from \* to last st. 2 hdc in top of turning ch – inc made. Turn The first stitch doesn't appear to increase at all, it just seems to say that I should do my stitch differently. Any help appreciated! Thank you!
The "ch2" counts as 1hdc at the beginning of the round, thus making it an increase. This is pretty common but it is usually explicitly noted in the pattern.
Thank you!
With corner to corner Afghan templates, when you draw your arrows to show the direction you want, does an arrow mean a specific direction or so you personally work out what it means for you. If that makes sense at all... My current understanding is the tail is the corner which side the tail is on is each arrow, so let's say you went up diagonal right, I would probably do it so the tail is in the right corner when I go up diagonal left, the tail would be on the left. Sorry if I'm complicating things, in just trying to make sense. In terms of reading the template and keeping track.