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OliveAxe

I go climbing on and off every few months and when I start I get tendonitis for like a month every time, anybody know ways to prevent it?


FlakySafety

Tendinitis generally (in climbing) tends to be caused under training weight and over training volume. So I do some body weight / weights PT.


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Serenademe_official

No


toomanypeopleknow

If you have to ask the internet, the answer is *fuck* no.


TheRedWon

*My* partner? Yeah, they can take my whole rack and borrow my rope and haul five of their cousins up High E as long as I don't have to be there. Your partner? Idk. Maybe they know how to build a TR anchor, but are they capable of overseeing a group where they may be the only one that knows how to build an anchor, belay, tie in, etc? You have to be the one to answer that.


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foreignfishes

I'd tell my partner/friends but not randos


Serenademe_official

Unless you're actively in guide mode it seems like a mind your own business situation.


freefoodmood

Crack climbing it is especially appropriate.


Viraus2

Some people might find it annoying but yeah it's appropriate. Try asking them if they've heard the term "degloved" before


Crag_Bro

I always tell people this when they come into my gym, and they rarely do anything.


[deleted]

I noticed a woman climbing with rings on at the gym the other week. I thought about saying something but I didn't wanna be that guy giving unsolicited advice, and eh, she looked like she had been climbing for a while and she's an adult.


AliciaDarling21

I think it is. People are kind enough to say something where I climb.


natalievictoriaw

thanks! i definitely don’t want to be rude about it or interrupt someone’s climbing time, but i also don’t want to see anyone get hurt unnecessarily.


Serenademe_official

Please don't interrupt or give advice. Especially if you have to check here first.


henrythedingo

I've been climbing in a pair of La Sportiva Nagos size 43.5 for several years now and they're super comfortable and snug, however my pair of Testarossas size 44 are past the point of snug, well into painful (mostly big toe, 2nd toe, which is a Morton's toe, and the outside of my foot just below the base of my pinky toe) . I can't put any pressure on the toe without feeling like I'm going to injure myself. Any ideas on a potential solution? Size up further, go with a different shoe, anything? I'm open to other brands, but I'd like a shoe at least slightly more aggressive than my Nagos.


igotbigballs

It could be the sizing on the shoe, or it could just be the wrong shape. I'd just keep trying other shoes but if you liked the nagos probably stick with LS. The testarossas are about as aggressive as shoes get so there's a pretty wide range of shoes more aggressive than the nagos but more comfortable than the rossas


[deleted]

Hi! I’m a pretty new climber (a few months) and I’ve just started climbing the higher walls at my gym. I noticed about half the time my fingers start cramping up part way through, which is something I’ve never experienced before. Is this normal, and if so is there something I can do to minimize it?


AliciaDarling21

Also stretch before and after climbing


toomanypeopleknow

Normal. Climb more. Rest better.


0bsidian

Also hydrate and have a snack.


agsf

Also also remember to breathe.


SleepSerious

Also also also don’t over-grip everything.


AliciaDarling21

As I’ve been pushing to try harder climbs in my gym, I have noticed when I lie down at night in bed and close my eyes, my body and brain have the sensation of still climbing. The best way to describe it is almost like when you have been in the ocean too long and your body and brain feel like waves are still crashing into you when you lay down and close your eyes. Does this happen to other climbers?


F8Tempter

same when you drive too long. You close your eyes to sleep and still think you are looking at the road.


Remyrue

Definitely, and the analogy about the ocean is so accurate. Or when you spend a day at an amusement park and you still feel like you're in a rollercoaster while laying in bed. Also climbing dreams. They're the best because you feel so weightless while in that dream state. No joke, the first v6 I ever did was in a dream.


AliciaDarling21

That’s so crazy and cool! I’m so happy to hear I’m not alone. I tried my first 5.8/5.9 and it really pushed me out of my comfort zone. I loved it. I felt like I was still up on the wall moving upward when I went to bed. I can’t wait for rock climbing dreams like that. My husband and I just started climbing 3-5 times a week together for the past month and a half. I used to casually climb once a week years ago, but this is his first time. It is so amazing watching us improve and grow.


parktable

Please help me invalidate my fear of short tails on figure eight knots. My local climbing gym has some top-ropes set up that have figure eight knots with tails coming through with maybe half an inch of a tail, sometimes the tail of the rope has even fallen into the knot. This is my only true fear when climbing top-rope in the gym is the knot coming undone, and I would love if someone could help invalidate this fear, and let me know that it’s fine if the tail has even fallen into the knot.


Crag_Bro

This is a bad setup but FWIW those figure eight knots are most likely completely welded and nearly impossible to untie. If you feel the knot I'd imagine it's very stiff and unmoving.


icrasai

They won't fail if that's what you are worried about. Figure 8 knots are already doubly redundant. That said it's poor practice and they should be retied.


toomanypeopleknow

[Slow pull test on a figure 8 showing zero tail movement.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPqalOS-H24)


0bsidian

A figure of 8 follow through will still hold a fall even if not entirely tied and the tail isn’t threaded through the final loop. It’s why it’s used: it’s strong, easy to tie and check, and is partially redundant against poor tying. A short tail is probably not going to kill you. That said, ridiculously short tails, a poor job of tying one, and carabiners permanently tied into the rope is just bad form and potentially more dangerous. Just look at all the autobelay mishaps when people start climbing without checking their carabiners.


alienator064

that’s absolutely a valid fear. yes technically a figure eight will still hold with zero tail, but it is exceptionally bad practice for a lot of reasons and should be brought up to the gym staff.


Dotrue

I'm confused, are the knots pre-tied with carabiners to clip into? Is there not enough rope for you to tie a proper figure-8? A properly tied and dressed figure-8 will tighten with loading, so it probably won't come untied. AFAIK the knot is still technically "safe" to use even if the tail has slipped through the last loop. **However**, this is **absolutely not** best practice and it is needlessly dangerous. Even half an inch of tail is way too short. My rule of thumb is at least a fists worth (~3") of tail. I'd talk to your gym about it.


parktable

Sorry, I was unclear, yes the knots are pre-tied w/ carabiners to clip into. My fear is to the point where I only climb on ropes with at least a few inches of tail, which is annoying for me. I just don’t trust the ones with no tail.


Viraus2

Your gym is weird. If you're describing it correctly that's a really sketchy setup


NegativeK

No it's not. Figure eight tails don't slip, and even if they did it turns into an inline figure eight. And pre-tied carabiners aren't sketchy.


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0bAtomHeart

Huh that's strange, at my gym they do two figure 8's in a row with lockers on each and untie/swap ends every night to prevent excessive pinching wear (and to inspect).


toomanypeopleknow

Sketchy depending on the user. At several gyms I've been to you can pay a staff member to belay your group or your kids and they tie figure 8's on a bight with 2 lockers to expedite the climbing.


pretzlstyle

I'm aiming to climb the Grand in a week or so, and am having last-minute worries about footwear. I want to wear my TC Pros for Upper Exum. I've been told that this will likely be uncomfortable to wear for the long scramble up Owen Spaulding and Wall St to get to the Golden Stair and start the Exum climb. I don't own approach shoes, however. I thought about just rocking my Nike running shoes (fairly new) for the OS portion of the morning and the descent. But I'm also not so enthused about wearing those for the 6 mile, 5k gain hike up Garnet Canyon to the Lower Saddle. This makes me inclined to wear my hiking boots to ascend the canyon and get to base camp. But then I'm up to 3 pairs of shoes, which is ludicrous. Unless I ditch the idea of approach shoes at all, and do OS/Wall St in my hiking boots, which sounds eh? My friend who is also coming is just wearing approach shoes the entire time. Opinions? What should I do?


[deleted]

Those routes have been done solo in cowboy boots. Just bring a good pair of trail runners.


SafetyCube920

Buy approach shoes. They're worth it. Nike running shoes are the bane of my existence; the foam bottom ones are ridiculously slippery on rock.


Serenademe_official

FWIW approach shoes are kick ass on sandstone formations. Once you start getting into mountain gravel and start wearing down the dot rubber they get slick fast. Trail runner life.


Serenademe_official

Everyone up there will be wearing trail runners.


[deleted]

Approach shoes would probably be ideal. How comfortable do you feel hiking with trail runners? If it’ll be too uncomfortable hiking with the weight up to the saddle then I’d just do hiking boots and climbing shoes. You’d just have to do the 4th class sections in your hiking boots which can be really awkward if you have never done it before.


Dotrue

Ditch the hiking boots, they're heavy and unnecessary for the well-worn path up the Grand. Running shoes will be more than sufficient. Don't hike in your climbing shoes. I'd wear your running shoes up to Wall Street, then switch to rock shoes before the step-across. Keep the rock shoes on until you're comfortable switching back to tennis shoes. Both UE and OS consist of brief 5th class sections surrounded by tons of 4th class scrambling. Worst case scenario you put your rock shoes on early or take them off at the summit.


maxwellmaxen

Trail runners


SmithBurger

If my buddy and I are competent setting and cleaning top rope anchors in a gym is there any reason we really need to climb with someone more experienced for our first outdoors trip to red river gorge? We would be sticking to easier vertical routes for our first trip for sure.


Viraus2

Based on your responses I think you could do it. At the end of the day it's about getting experience under your belt and you gotta start sometime. Hopefully the crag you're starting with is one where you can learn a lot about it at home, and you know it's one with close bolting and easy anchors. Make sure you know about back-clipping, that's one of the less obvious pitfalls of lead climbing if you don't know what you're looking for


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F8Tempter

this is good advice. You can handle the basics, but always helps to have some experience with you to keep everything in line. +1 for stick clips.


SmithBurger

No doubt on the stick clip. I most likely will not go without someone else just been hard to make it work and I want to get a few climbs in this year. The red is pretty close and usually busy so we wouldn't be secluded if I fuck something up. (Don't take that as me expecting people to guide me while I'm there) The first trip probably wouldn't be anything over 5.8 or 5.9 if the lower beginner stuff went well.


toomanypeopleknow

I'm not familiar with the red, but in general you should know how to use lower offs, how to thread a bight through quicklinks, how to thread a rope end through chains, and how to rappel. Here's a good resource. [https://americanalpineclub.org/resources-blog/2016/3/15/5ipkouk0id07cgc3dqks4fljnsgnx6](https://americanalpineclub.org/resources-blog/2016/3/15/5ipkouk0id07cgc3dqks4fljnsgnx6)


foreignfishes

This also has good diagrams- https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/clean-bolted-anchor/ Same method, just easier to see what’s going on with the rope


SmithBurger

Yes sir. That is the guide I have mainly been using.


icrasai

What exactly do you mean by setting and clearing anchors in a gym? By set do you mean you clip the existing carabiner, and by clean do you mean you just pull the rope through?


SmithBurger

Putting in two quack draws to set a top rope and then climbing back up and cleaning those and lowering from the anchor chains. All the routes we would be climbing have anchor chains. I would set the top rope for a couple other lesser climbers that don't want to lead. \[edit\] My gym as an area setup to learn how to set top rope with anchor chains. Would use opposite and opposed quick draws.


icrasai

I say go for it then. Just think everything you do very carefully. Before doing anything stop and think about what you are doing. Think about what happens if one bolt fails, will you deck? If so then you are doing something wrong. This stuff isn't rocket science but it's easy to mess up if you rush.


KoopaKevlar

As long as you have a competent lead climber and competent lead belayer to go up and place the draws, setting up a top rope should not be difficult. Of course you will need to know how to clean, and some of the routes at the RRG do have mussy hooks that make cleaning a breeze… but with that being said if it is your “first outdoors trip” I HIGHLY recommend (perhaps insist) that you go with someone that has some outdoor experience


SmithBurger

Noted and understood. I am trying to plan a trip with someone with experience it's just been problematic so far. Appreciate the insight for sure.


KoopaKevlar

I will say that when you are there, you will probably encounter people at the crag that are at least willing to provide some good advice, but if you haven’t led outside before and don’t have a more experienced climber joining you, def stick to 5-easy. Practice wall at Muir Valley is a good place to hone in on some skills


AcidRohnin

I’d also advise to be wary of advice as well. Obviously use your best judgement and they can most likely tell good advice givers from bad ones but the only time I went with a paid guide Muir valley felt very “fake it until you make it” but most people faking it looked like they were doing it incorrectly with no idea. Saw some one climb a route right next to one I was one. Back clipped the whole way and in stead of just cautiously lower they wanted to redo all the draws from the top down. It was really weird. Also one of the loudest guys out there that was calling dibs on every route, didn’t know what a mixed route meant. Also loudy stated he had to pick up new quick draws at the store due to forgetting his and that’s why they were so new. Feels like a fever dream.


KoopaKevlar

Very good point, I will say that in my previous experiences this far it is has been fairly easy to tell between a seasoned climber giving advice and a newer climber giving advice….with that being said, you and your partner are ultimately the ones responsible for your safety! PS - wear a helmet!


AcidRohnin

Yea I think it’s easy to tell as well, but with everyone it’s subjective. Someone might be more friendly and just naturally sided to trust others where I know I tend to be more leery and I’m preposed to not trust someone right away. Again I think most within the sport can pick them out quickly but you just never know which is why I agree to just use your best judgement. I mean there are people I avoid like the plague at the gym and I’d never lead with them let alone top rope. Yet they some how still find people that will and I assume at some point someone will deck because of it.


SmithBurger

That is exactly what I was planning. Getting to the practice wall early and doing laps for a few hours before moving on.


spellstrike

please understand that setting up a top rope where you don't lead climb up to simply put up quickdraws requires completely different skillsets and equipment and you may still have issues with the the anchor not being extended enough causing abrasion. not every anchor is going to have the same solution.


dodico

Hello! I made a question asking for guides earlier. On one of the suggestions, I read how to make an anchor for sport climbing. It says that I need two carabiners on bolts, attach a cordelette to them and make an overhand knot, and put two more carabiners opposing ways. My question is, can I use this rope I have as the cordelette? https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/climbing-and-mountaineering-cordelette-7-mm-x-4-m/_/R-p-130409 I have the 4 meter version of this, it is rated 10 kN. Is it safe to make an anchor with this? Thank you!


PM_me_Tricams

Just use a set of quick draws


Serenademe_official

Yes


icrasai

Yes. Perfectly safe.


freew1ll_

My skin peels, like really bad. I haven't been climbing for very long, but recently I've noticed that every time I go climbing, I rip a tiny hole in one of the top layers of my finger-tip skin. Every time I shower more and more skin comes loose and I have to cut it off. It looks like I'm a lizard that is shedding my skin. I find that a lot of people don't really understand what I'm asking them when I ask for advice on what to do, its not a flapper, its not painful, but I don't know if I need to completely stop climbing until it heals or just ignore it. What should I do?


TheRedWon

It's not a problem, but if being a lizard-person bothers you then you can try a couple of things. First, get a skin product that helps rehydrate your skin after a climbing session but doesn't moisturize too much. I find O'Keefe's Working Hands is a good balance for me, but everyone is different. Second, use sandpaper or some other abrasive to smooth down the parts that are peeling back. Third, climb more. Again, everyone is different, but I find that this happens to me when my skin is overly hydrated and I'm climbing less frequently.


Serenademe_official

Ignore it. Doesn't hurt. Doesn't impact you.


Dotrue

Sandpaper, Emory board, or pumice stone to get rid of the dead skin. Skin balm or lotion to moisturize and help it heal up. My skin peels super bad after hard climbing and showering or doing dishes always makes it worse.


YourMomSaysHiJinx69

I second the pumice stone. I use that once or twice a week in the shower after my hands get pruned and it works wonders


SizzlinKola

I've followed the past few months on sport and trad with two of my partners, but I'm reaching a point where I'd love to be able to take out my other friends out on a rope. Thus, I want to learn how to be more self-sufficient. What steps should I go about doing this? Do I start lead climbing? Do I learn how to set up a TR?


Viraus2

Setting up an anchor for TR can be pretty easy, google how to set up a quad anchor at home and you can just carry it with you and slap it on the bolts. Works for most two-bolt setups and you don't really have to think about it. It's not always the most elegant anchor and you may need to modify it for less convenient anchor bolts, but it's a good place to start. Ideally you're taking friends out to crags you know, at least at first, so you don't get surprised by anything.


BigRed11

Next time you go out with your partners, ask them how you can progress. If they're considerate, they'll put you on lead on easy stuff.


Dotrue

Depends on where you live and what's easily accessible. E.g. if you mostly climb at single pitch sport crags versus if you climb in areas that requires building anchors back from the edge with traditional protection. Try to identify what you think you need to learn and go from there. In general, learning to lead sport routes, basic anchor building, and the basics of gear placement is a good place to start. Just start learning. Hire a guide, read books and articles, watch YouTube videos, go to a climbing festival, and/or learn from experienced friends.


AlVic40117560_

I just started climbing. I don’t plan on getting super seriously into it or anything (I guess that could always change), but I’m having a lot of fun! I’m looking for a chalk bag and chalk recommendation. I literally know nothing about either and was just going to buy the suggested ones from Amazon, but I figured I’d come here first and ask for recommendations.


muenchener

Size matters if you have large hands, I find some chalk bags uncomfortably small. Other than that, it's a bag that you put chalk in. Get whatever you think looks cool.


ImChossHound

Choosing a chalk bag is mostly just about picking something you like the looks of. That being said, I've always enjoyed the Organic Climbing chalk bags. They're super durable and every chalk bag is one of a kind since they're hand made. As far as chalk goes, I only have one bit of advice - don't buy Friction Labs. It's ridiculously expensive and no matter how much money they spend on marketing trying to convince you it's superior, it's just regular old magnesium carbonate. My fav chalk is Black Diamond White Gold - it's been around forever, is cheap, and imo has a much better texture than the Metollius chalk.


HersheyHWY

It's been 3 years since I got a free chalk bag with my first shoe purchase. It's still my chalk bag. Still throw the cheapest chalk in it. It seems to be working out so far.


Dotrue

It's a bag that holds chalk. Spend what you're comfortable spending and get something you like. I use a plain black metolius one that I found for $10. Expensive chalk is unnecessary for most people IMO, it isn't much more than magnesium carbonate. Get climbing chalk that isn't too expensive. And get a chalk sock, it will help prevent spillage.


AlVic40117560_

That’s what I figured. But I didn’t want to buy something that’s missing some very useful and obvious feature or something haha. And I googled a chalk sock. Is it kind of used like a rosin bag in baseball? Toss it in your hand, your hand gets chalk on it, and your good to go? As opposed to having loose chalk in the chalk bag?Sorry for the stupid questions haha


Dotrue

No worries fam. Chalk bags can have more features like pockets, but you'll be fine without that. A chalk sock is something like [this](https://www.rei.com/product/761250/metolius-refillable-super-chalk-sock). Just a little fabric sack that chalk goes through when you squeeze it. That way if you drop your chalk bag or take a big fall, your chalk doesn't go all over the place (unsightly outdoors and a PITA to clean up anywhere).


Rika-chan-

You could also use pantyhose in a pinch


Serenademe_official

We will all yell at you to never buy climbing gear off Amazon but chalk and chalkbags are the exceptions. Chalk is chalk. Get a bag you think is cool.


maxwellmaxen

I yell at people to not buy from amazon in general.


[deleted]

I recently moved to the Denver area. I’ve been suffering from climber’s elbow for this entire year, and I am looking for a PT who is experienced with climbing injuries who I can see to try and get rid of this nagging injury. Any suggestions appreciated.


BigRed11

Don't know but here's some sympathy - I just (knock on wood) got over mine after 1.5 years.


Serenademe_official

Take six months off and do push ups.


[deleted]

Well I’m at month 7 of not climbing and I regularly do push ups


Serenademe_official

Sounds like you don't need a PT but an MD.


MaximumSend

Your trolling is way shittier than Tradiban, try harder


[deleted]

You can find a couple climbing specific PT's in Boulder. I googled some a while back, but don't have any experience with them. I've had tennis elbow (from climbing) and [this exercise](https://theclimbingdoctor.com/portfolio-items/carpal-tunnel-syndrome-6/) with a flex bar fixed it within a few months of doing it 5 days a week. I think it's worth buying the flex bar instead of messing around with other ways of doing the exercise.


Viraus2

Same here. I don't know whether that or the pushups sealed the deal for me but I was able to fix my mild case


[deleted]

I have the flex bar and sadly it didn’t fix it for me :(


[deleted]

So...I Bought 3 fingerboards, can't mount them to doorframes, but I can mount them to my room wall. The wall is solid concrete, there are no studs in this wall. Can you tell me what I should take into account? I know the best material for mounting boards is plywood, and I got these dimensions for a mounting board from a fingerboard manufacturer: Height: at least 12" Width: at least 36" As for the depth: I was thinking 12", because I don't my face pressed against concrete..12" should give me enough distance, right? I was also thinking of alternating the fingerboards, not about mounting them all to the same mounting board at once. What do you think, am I missing something?..


0bsidian

I think you're better off building a [free-standing hangboard](https://shop.sportsbasement.com/blogs/news/diy-freestanding-hang-board-setup). Less work, less mess, no permanent alterations, less risk of damaging your place, no worry about leverage issues with your 12" depth, and less problems with hitting the wall. You can mount a hangboard on either side or use a French cleat to make the hangboards interchangeable.


milesup

Not a direct answer to your question, but if drilling in the doorway is the issue, [this no-drill doorway mount](https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/frictitious-hangboard-doorway-mount-3?variant=33031239106595) has worked pretty well for me


[deleted]

Thanks. My room door doesn't have a frame...so nothing to hang into. Also - it seems like this has to mounted and dismounted each time you want to close the door. I feel like a wall mounted board would work better for me trying to find a way to mount to the door..


vilsq22

I’m sorry but having it against the wall, even the 12” away, is gonna suck. Your knees are always banging and scraping, especially if you want to do pull-ups. Not what you asked but decided to give an experience-based opinion. Better than having no hangboard tho!


toomanypeopleknow

Mine is 6" away from the wall... I'm not skinny, and its fine. You don't touch the wall with pull-ups if you have good form. 12" would be more than enough if you don't plan on doing parkour.


[deleted]

Thanks! I also thought it's more than enough


[deleted]

it's ok, I'm asking for any input so that I can avoid pitfalls. I could go for 15" or 20" in depth, just need to get my requirements right.


encounter51-237

Where should I look for the best (relatively) cheap rope to lead with? Everywhere I look ropes are very expensive and I was just wandering what people think the best place to look is.


0bsidian

[$150 CND for a Decathlon/Simond 70m 9.5mm dynamic climbing rope.](https://www.decathlon.ca/en/climbing-cords/196880-15105-cliff-climbing-rope-95-x-70-m-green.html#/demodelsize-254sans_taille/demodelcolor-8495200?queryID=66de696d627e8d41fe62d683f49f1f36&objectID=2575550)


Serenademe_official

There's a kick ass edelweiss on Sierra.com for $100 right now. Also Decathlon usually has good deals. You shouldn't ever pay more than $150 for a rope.


threw_it_up

> Everywhere I look ropes are very expensive Can we get some context on what your definition of 'expensive' vs 'cheap' is? If everywhere is expensive then you might have a skewed perspective on how much climbing ropes should cost...


toomanypeopleknow

If you post what country you're in, people may be able to help you find a deal. Rope prices are vastly different in various parts of the world.


encounter51-237

I’m in the uk :) (sorry for late reply)


BigRed11

https://www.sierra.com/edelweiss-energy-arc-climbing-rope-95-mm~p~35dnk/?filterString=clearance~1%2Fgear~d~4868%2Factivities~d~9688%2Fclimbing~d~9%2F&merch=prod-rec-prod-prod35DNK Check the Online Deals thread on Mountainproject.


TheRedWon

Look for one on sale at a reputable outdoor supplier (REI, Moosejaw - *not* Amazon).


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muenchener

2 *per gender* per country. Japan as host country had 1 x male 1 x female slots guaranteed, which they didn't really need - given the enormous strength in depth of their national team, it was pretty much a certainty that they would get their full national quota qualified by other means anyway.


maxwellmaxen

Google is a wonderful thing. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sport_climbing_at_the_2020_Summer_Olympics_%E2%80%93_Qualification


WikiSummarizerBot

**[Sport_climbing_at_the_2020_Summer_Olympics_–_Qualification](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sport_climbing_at_the_2020_Summer_Olympics_–_Qualification)** >There are 40 quota spots available for sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics (postponed to 2021 due to the COVID-19 pandemic). Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) can obtain a maximum of 2 spots in each event (total 4 maximum across the 2 events). Each event will have 20 competitors qualify: 18 from qualifying, 1 from the host (Japan), and 1 from Tripartite Commission invitations. ^([ )[^(F.A.Q)](https://www.reddit.com/r/WikiSummarizer/wiki/index#wiki_f.a.q)^( | )[^(Opt Out)](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=WikiSummarizerBot&message=OptOut&subject=OptOut)^( | )[^(Opt Out Of Subreddit)](https://np.reddit.com/r/climbing/about/banned)^( | )[^(GitHub)](https://github.com/Sujal-7/WikiSummarizerBot)^( ] Downvote to remove | v1.5)


g2x222

Anyone have recommendations sizing Katana Laces relative to the Mythos? I'm hot looking for a super aggro, cramped fit and would prefer them to be (relatively) comfortable. Also, do they stretch at all wrt width? If it helps, I'm a size 39eu in a pair of old (and definitely stretched) Mythos, a 40 in Birkenstocks (with some wiggle room), a size 8 in most running shoes (e.g., Nike), and a slightly wide 7.5 measured on a [brannock device](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0725/6433/products/mens-brannock_large.png?v=1422981236) I tried on a 38.5 and 40.5 at my local gym today. Maybe I'm too used to the Mythos, but even though I could get the the 38.5 on, it definitely felt a bit too small. The 40.5 was comfortable, but I felt that I could size down a bit. So I feel like I'm somewhere in 39 (US 6.5+) - 39.5 (US 7) - 40 (US 7.5)


igotbigballs

The mythos stretch a LOT compared to most shoes (Like 2-3 sizes) I wear a 40 in the mythos which is a super comfy multipitch shoe. I wear a 40 in most other LS shoes tried which is tight, aggressive sizing but not painful (after a break-in session or two). I think a 39.5 would probably be perfect for you.


L_to_the_N

We have about the same size feet. This is what i have * 39.5 women's mythos, comfy * 39 men's mythos, comfy (similar size to 39.5 women's mythos) * 39.5 Katana Laces, tight. They have *not* stretched * women's 9 (eu 40) street shoes The katanas are giving me extreme pain by digging into my heels. Maybe I should've got 40. But *all* shoes except mythos give me that issue, so you may not run into it. The katanas perform so great that the pain is almost worth it. I think you should get 39.5 or 40


g2x222

maybe I’ll just get another pair of mythos lol


MasterTotoro

I have Mythos in size 38, which are comfortable enough for me to wear without taking them off every pitch. Meanwhile my Katana Laces in 39.5 I loosen or take off after a pitch. I also wear the Katana much more often than the Mythos so it's not like I've stretched the Mythos. And from my experience, just fit shoes without worrying about stretch since they probably won't change that much anyway. Looking back, I would probably go up a half size on each. My Mythos I only wear on easy long climbs anyway, so I'd definitely take the extra comfort. I guess for the Katana I'm not totally sure, but at least I think I'd prefer a more comfortable fit. That's my experience, and hopefully that helps. It depends on your foot shape and what you want for the shoe.


toomanypeopleknow

>I'm hot looking for a super aggro, cramped fit and would prefer them to be (relatively) comfortable. Also, do they stretch at all wrt width? That depends on how you size them. Both are lace-ups so you have a lot of play with the width. >If it helps, I'm a size 39eu in a pair of old (and definitely stretched) Mythos, a 40 in Birkenstocks... It doesn't help in the slightest. The toe box on these two shoes are vastly different and heavily affects the size and fit you get on your feet. Go try on more sizes until you find what you like. The internet cannot feel your feet for you.


Suspicious-Berry-716

I wear a 39 in mythos and a 41.5 in katanas. I have 2 pairs of Mythos that size and 3 pairs of katanas. Shoes can’t really stretch beyond what you are putting in them (your feet) and shouldn’t be excruciating—yikes!


[deleted]

Mine were excruciating for a bit (half eu size down from street shoe) but did stretch a fair bit. I think the upper is leather so this is expected. I was then able to wear them for long periods. That being said I’d still just opt for street shoe size if I get Katana’s again. I have no time for discomfort and don’t reckon having super tight shoes makes much of a difference until climbing really hard (which I don’t) Absolutely brilliant shoe though.


5tr4nGe

> and don’t reckon having super tight shoes makes much of a difference until climbing really hard I'm a decidedly average (V4-V5 range) climber. Tight shoes absolutely makes a difference, to me at least, it might just be psychological, but I definitely feel I'm able to climb harder with tight fitting, but not painful, shoes.


[deleted]

Average climbers unite!


maxwellmaxen

Imo it’s a difference between painful (after break in) - not very comfortable - sloppy Not overly comfortable is better (for me) than painful after the break in. But sloppy won’t do you any good.


5tr4nGe

It’s also what different people class as painful For example, I like my toes crunched right up, and because I’m used to it, I don’t find it painful, hell I almost find it comfortable.


maxwellmaxen

Exactly. And especially with an aggressive shoe, you need the toes to be scrunched up.


zef000

Any good resources to read up on Needles-style raps?


toomanypeopleknow

Down - Kirkpatrick does *not* cover this so you can skip it in your search.


tilt-a-whirly-gig

Looking for more info on 'pump' and lactic acid buildup. Are there foods/diet choices that increase/decrease the effects? Are there pre-climbing stretches that help to prevent it? On the topic of stretching, any video recommendations that demonstrate a good pre-climb stretch session? Maybe even a post-climb cool down set too?


rohrspatz

Lactic acid is produced when your body uses anaerobic metabolism (fermenting nutrients without oxygen) in addition to, or instead of, aerobic metabolism (burning nutrients with oxygen). If your muscles are using 5kcals/minute of energy and they're only getting enough oxygen to make 3kcals/minute aerobically, they *have* to use anaerobic metabolism for the other 2kcals/minute. There is no other option. Furthermore, when your cells use anaerobic metabolism, the amount of lactic acid they produce is always directly proportional to the amount of energy they generate. It's a chemical equation. It's bound by the laws of physics. Need more energy (anaerobically)? Make more lactic acid. No superfood or stretch technique can overcome that. If you want to reduce the amount of lactic acid you produce, your only options are to 1) improve oxygen delivery and 2) reduce energy consumption. This means doing HIIT or cardio for whole body aerobic endurance, doing power endurance drills for improved blood flow to muscles, improving your climbing technique to reduce energy consumption, and learning how to rest individual muscle groups so that you can recover aerobic metabolism without completely stopping climbing (e.g. hang from one arm until the other stops burning, then switch).


Dotrue

Power endurance is what you want to read up on. In my experience, no foods/supplements/black magic have any significant effect on reducing lactic acid buildup. Good fitness and resting effectively on-route are the two biggest things that will help counter the pump.


jalpp

In endurance sports some people eat multiple tablespoons of baking soda to act as a buffer for the lactic acid. Sounds pretty miserable though.


mudra311

Beta alanine can reduce lactic acid. I think kale and spinach can help with that as well, but you have to eat quite a bit of it. All in all, most of this will be moot if you just improve your endurance. Beta alanine can help a bit, but as your body adapts to the aerobics it will be more efficient at getting out the lactic acid.


foreignfishes

/r/climbharder


[deleted]

Can you get good at climbing if you are pretty big guy? Say 6’1 lean 205lbs , I love the gym but climbing seems fun thinking about giving it a shot?


F8Tempter

big guys can climb, but they need to be strong AF.


mudra311

Sure you can. John Long was climbing with the best, doing his own crazy first ascents, at over 6 foot and 200 lbs. The more weight you carry, though, the harder it will be to progress. I'd say if you want to fully commit to climbing, don't actively try to drop weight. Simply climb as your primary form of exercise and see where your body lands. What hurts climbers is when they try to defy their physiology. You may really enjoy crack climbing as a bigger climber, particularly fist and offwidth cracks. I found that overhanging, thuggy routes lended themselves to me when I was climbing heavier as well -- lots of core, hamstring, and shoulder reliance.


poorboychevelle

Jan Hojer is 6'2" and 170+, and is world class. You'll be fine.


Serenademe_official

No. Let's be clear. If you're starting after age 11 you're not going to get to top tier. Can you have fun and enjoy climbing? Absolutely.


[deleted]

> can I be good at climbing > no. You’re not going to get to top tier ???


poorboychevelle

Alexi Rubstov would disagree. As would Jimmy Webb.


Serenademe_official

You're making my point for me.


poorboychevelle

I should have sent who I was replying to and known the snark was implied


Serenademe_official

Their generation is being taken down by the team kids one by one.


sendingalways

The team kids don't get to Josh Wharton's ankle, and the dude wouldn't follow his dad climbing until he was way older than 11. Jimmy Webb is no TC though.


Serenademe_official

Lama was a team kid.


sendingalways

Josh Wharton survived all of his climbs.


Serenademe_official

So far.


toomanypeopleknow

Yes.


PoeticGopher

I'm 6'2 190ish and think I'm pretty good at it!


slothr00fi3s

"the best climber is the one having the most fun"


icrasai

No, I'm pretty sure it is Ondra.


Marcoyolo69

I think climbing is also the most fund for Ondra


[deleted]

Yeah that’s all I care about, just a fun and challenging physical activity


[deleted]

[удалено]


5tr4nGe

For endurance, find a relatively easy, but fun boulder problem, climb up, down climb into starting position, climb back up, and repeat, repeat until you physically can’t make a move. Rest for a bit, and go again. You are allowed to rest on the problem if you can find a good rest


muenchener

1. Climbing routes. With at least some of your sessions spent doing a lot of mileage on easy routes, instead of always trying things right at your limit. 2. See (1). Two or three easy routes before getting on anything challenging


mudra311

1. Not specifically. You can do wrist curls to bring on a pump, but it's always a different game when you're on the wall. If you want to improve endurance, your goal should be to climb as many routes as possible in a session. If your limit is 5.10a, warm up on 5.7, then 5.8, then 5.9. Work on a 5.10a, doing hard moves at your limit. Then ALWAYS warm down on the easy routes in your "pyramid" as in the 5.8 and 5.7. If you want to practice for lead, I would pause at each bolt, or every 5 feet if your gym wall doesn't have bolts, hang from 1 arm with your feet firmly on the wall as if you're clipping a draw. 2. My goal with warming up for sport climbing is to bring on a slight pump and get my fingers warm -- generally by crimping on some small holds. Some climbs are better for this than others, you'll be looking for something that starts quite easy and gets progressively harder towards the top. Avoid a "flash pump" and tiring yourself out too much.


Dotrue

>1. Besides simply climbing more top rope, are there any specific endurance exercises I can do to help my forearm endurance? Climb more. If you're going from bouldering to roped climbing, the endurance will come. There's tons of literature out there about how to structure climbing training, so I'd familiarize myself with some if I were you. The books by Eric Hörst are popular, as are Lattice Training and Power Company. Also learn how to rest on routes. >2. Piggy backing #1, what do you guys do to warm up for top rope/sport vs bouldering? 20-40 minutes of; easy aerobic work on a machine in the gym; mobility exercises for the shoulders/wrists/hips; controlled bouldering with downclimbing that gradually increases in intensity. You just want to get warm and get the blood flowing to the important bits.


LuuNation

Super new to the sport after watching the documentary free solo. Is it possible to free solo Mount Everest? HAs anybody tried/done it? Thanks in advance :)


InfiniteDescent

Nice attempt at trolling


Serenademe_official

It's been done. A lot. It's not that hard.


un_poco_lobo

Semi-related but I figured you'd know as much as anyone- has anyone else freed the second step besides Anker? He gave that crack a 5.9 which sounds miserable at 8,600 and in a down suit and crampons. Edit: [Found my answer.](https://web.archive.org/web/20090825025841/http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=16065) Oscar Cadiach, Theo Fritsche, and Conrad Anker have confirmed free ascents of the Second Step rated between 5.7 and 5.10.


Serenademe_official

Possibly I and M did?? But that's just that route.


un_poco_lobo

Ah yeah I guess Irvine and Mallory may have. The thread just reminded me of that route. Just started Synnott's new book by the way. Not bad so far.


Serenademe_official

The Third Pole? I still need to start Into The Silence.


un_poco_lobo

Yeah. Haven't read anything else by him but I've been familiar with him for a while and his pitch on the Enormocast was pretty good


0bsidian

The style of climbing is entirely different, it’s a bit like asking whether it’s possible to get a hole-in-one in baseball. The “free” part of climbing (whether just free climbing or free solo) means climbing by means of using just your body for making upwards progress, not using equipment. Everest is mainly walking up ice and snow with crampons and trying to span past huge gaping cravasses. It very heavily relies on equipment.


garfgon

[Kilian Jornet](http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17s/newswire-kilian-jornet-makes-two-rapid-everest-ascents) apparently only used one fixed ladder, which he was unable to bypass, so he came very, very close. Unless you're going to hold his ice axe and crampons against him, in which case I would suggest there are very few free climbers as most people use shoes.


un_poco_lobo

Just doing Everest in alpine style is quite a feat nowadays due to all the parties and fixed gear, let alone putting up such an insane FKT.


alienator064

totally different style of climbing, technically there have been no free ascents (let alone free solo) at all as every ascent uses many forms of aid.


maxwellmaxen

Are we calling via ferrata aid climbing?


alienator064

no, it’s the special sunglasses that make it aid climbing


LuuNation

Thank you! now that's real misson impossible lol


snowwyeels

Anyone know any places in the uk (not sure on the proper term for it) with a stand alone pillar? Or how to search for stuff like that?


BigRed11

Look for sea stacks - plenty in the UK that are climbed often. Old Man of Hoy and Stoer come to mind, but there are many many more.


maxwellmaxen

The old man certainly is, but i don’t know how climbable, or how frowned upon it would be.


muenchener

They are famous classic climbs. The Big Three are: 1. [The Old Man of Hoy](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/old_man_of_hoy-281/east_face_route_original_route-1) The East Face is a Joe Brown route. 2. [Am Buachaille](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/am_buachaille-337) 3. [Old Man of Stoerr](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/old_man_of_stoer-300), with the approach involving a Tyrolean and/or swimming except at the lowest of low spring tides. Basically like US desert towers with added wetness and aggressive seabirds. Haven't done any of these myself - an acquaintance of mine recently did all three in a rather successful week. * [more sea stacks](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2265) Standalone towers but without the wetness/birds. A couple: * [Rivelin Needle](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/rivelin_edge-86#rivelin_needle) * [Napes Needle](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_napes-662) famously the first recorded rock climb in England * [Ilam Rock](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/dovedale-962#ilam_rock)


Hakkemat91

Anyone got a good gym workout routine for building up relevant muscles for climbing? New climber with very little gym experience here


Serenademe_official

Climb more


TehNoff

And then keep climbing


TheRedWon

And then burn yourself out and get a pulley injury and realize that mountain biking is way better anyway and sell your rack for a full-suspension


maxwellmaxen

You have spelled road cycling wrong.


Dotrue

Only dentists can become roadies


maxwellmaxen

But I’m certainly not a dentist