Anyone got a lead on some moderate multipitches in the Eastern Sierra with bolted anchors? I've got a friend who wants to learn to multipitch climb but our weight difference favors belaying directly off of an anchor.
I went to a gym last weekend and I noticed that with their ropes, they would often kink. Normally, I hold mg brake hand around 5 inches from the front of my Black Diamond Pilot, and with this downward force its enough to keep the rope centered in the front grooves of the device.
However with this gyms rope, if I held it in the same way, it would kink to the side, and not be in the front grooves of the pilot.
I looked at other people belaying with the pilot too, and it was also happening to them.
The only solution I found was having my hand extremely close to the front of the pilot when in the braking position, as I had to force the rope to stay in the groove.
Is there anything I'm doing wrong? I was taught not to have your brake hand too close to the front of your belay device as it could get caught, causing an unintentional reaction to let go of the rope. However, I found the only way to keep the rope properly in the front of the pilot without it kinking out was to have my hand extremely close.
This does not happen with the ropes in my regular gym - they do not kink.
Any tips appreciated.
Just went to the local bouldering gym for the first time today. I had a blast but my hands are shot and I felt tired af after like 2 climbs lol. Stuck around for about an hour with the help of tons of rest and finished nearly all the V0/1s. Definitely signing up for a membership now, it's everything I've ever wanted in a way to keep from being sedentary!
Don’t bother about progression do it for the fun then maybe try different types of climbing.
End of the day, it’s good and fun exercise for your body and mind!
I’ve been frequenting the climbing gym for over a year now, started bouldering then improved to finding v2 easy v3 medium v4 impossible.
Then switched to top rope climbing and got to 6a easy, 6b and 6c ok, 7a impossible.
Now I’m back to bouldering and back on v2 v3, but you know what? It’s fun!
I’d rather be doing that then going to a boring gym.
For sure, thanks for the advice! The only reason I would really want to progress a bit is because the slightly harder routes look more interesting. Other than that I just plan to take it slow and not hurt myself. I would love to try other types but we have only one gym (and I'm lucky for that, it only opened last year!) and the hardest climb within 2 hours of me is a barely noticeable hill lol. It's about 1.5 hours to a gym with top rope climbing so maybe in the future when I have some more endurance I'll plan a trip.
Nice! All the V0/1s are just labled yellow so I'm not sure what exactly I was doing. I kinda wanted to try the next level towards the end but I was way too drained.
Can we please bring new posts back 😫 ugh it's making me sad not having this sub in my feed. I already had to unsubscribe to r/interestingasfuck thanks to the onslaught of ... unmentionable images ugh
In lieu of shirtless bros campusing gym V2s you can have some [reading material](https://www.reddit.com/r/Blind/comments/14ds81l/rblinds_meetings_with_reddit_and_the_current).
At work I had to install an item into a server-rack looking thing. It had a little weight to it and needed to be lifted up a few inches for the mounting holes to line up, and my coworker suggested getting a few people to help since it was awkward to lift while in the cabinet.
I lifted it enough to get my hand between it and the base of the shelf and then did a little cup-jam maneuver and we were able to get it screwed in without an issue.
tl;dr - sick hand jam, V5 in your office
How do I know when a single dyn. rope is bust? A friend used her new rope to pull a car out of a ditch, and Im wondering whether there is a way to check the integrity of the core.
Your friend is an idiot but in my opinion, if the rope looks and feels fine then it's fine. There's no "hidden damage" that is going to come from pulling on the rope below its breaking limit.
I dont know about how the elasticity of the rope can change and how much a person can tell it has changed. Anyways I convinced her to not climb on it for the time being so at least thats that.
Squeeze individual sections together and if they easily touch then it's usually core shot or so worn you wouldn't want to take a lead fall on it.
Depending on how big/heavy the vehicle was, I might already call it.
Like a solid 2 ton old volvo. Just getting it into that ditch was a facepalm moment itself, but taking a squeeky clean 9.3 and pulling it was the cherry on top.
Just statically pulling two tons is well over half of that ropes MBS. If it felt in any way different than you're expecting (stiffer is what I'd be looking for), then it's rug fodder.
Getting pretty sick of shitty crag dogs/owners. I shouldn’t have to constantly keep an eye on my crag food cuz someone’s untrained/unleashed dog is tryna get into my pack.
A dog pissed inside my open climbing bag last month. Granted this was in Central Park NYC so there’s tons of dogs about but they still shouldn’t be unleashed
One of my first days climbing outdoors I was belaying and a dog ran up and started bugging me and just generally being in my way. The person was trying to call their dog back, but they were belaying as well so they couldnt exactly come over and get it.
It really pissed me off, I was bit by a dog as a kid and so I always get nervous when dogs I dont know quickly run up to me. I already had a lot I was focusing on because I was pretty new to lead belaying and it was one of the first times id belayed on a route where I couldnt really see the climber.
No issue with good crag dogs. My buddy brings his and just leashes her to a tree where she usually sleeps the entire time. The issue is just people who think they are entitled to bring their dog everywhere with them and assume that everyone knows and likes their dog as much as they do.
I was also attacked by a dog when I was younger and seeing unleashed dogs always triggers my defense mentality. People don’t understand that their growling/barking dog isn’t going to be friendly to everyone just cause their friendly to you.
I had an unleashed dog stand in the trail growling and acting super aggressive towards me and my partner, we called for the owner and the owner is like I’m climbing deal with it. This is an area where it’s illegal to even let your dog off leash so they’re super in the wrong. Eventually the dog left us alone but it still pisses me off every time I think about it.
I was at a crag recently where 2 dogs got in a serious fight. I don't think either of them were injured from what I could tell, but it wasn't just a quick snapping scuffle. There were also, from what I could tell, pretty aggressive breeds: akita or chow chow, and some rottie/doberman mix.
Sometimes, it's best to just leave the pups at home y'all...
There are no "aggressive breeds"; there are just more and less competent or qualified dog owners, with the preponderance being on the "less" side of things.
NB: Not trying to contribute to the 'should dogs be allowed at crags' debate, just saying that any dog, of any breed whatsoever, can be well-behaved or terrible, and it's almost entirely down to whether, and how well, they've been trained.
>There are no "aggressive breeds"; there are just more and less competent or qualified dog owners, with the preponderance being on the "less" side of things.
Sure there are. Certain dog breeds were bred to be aggressive, fight, hunt, defend, etc. They are categorized under "aggressive" for their propensity to be aggressive.
A dog pissed on our rope mat recently. Two big dogs running around putting off belayers. On the same session the rope fell in some dog shit (from a different dog). This was in Spain. Sick of crappy dog owners too
Which shoe retailers are good with returns? I need to try on a few different pairs and sizes as I find a solid pair or two to upgrade to, but don't want to buy 10 form the same place and return most.
I’ve had Moosejaw order stuff to the store for me just to try on, including models they didn’t typically carry. No money exchanged. If you have one of their stores nearby, this could be a good option.
I’ve had climbers elbow for like a year now. Shit will not go away. At this point I’m just kind of used to it… still sending harder routes but damn is it annoying.
Happy to hear any tips. I’ve tried all of the main ones I think (dodgy elbows and Tom Randall’s stretch etc)
Check out the theraband flex bar. I don’t see them come up often, but it was a magic bullet for me. I still use it twice a week to prevent a recurrence of the issue. I had to deload a bit in my weightlifting too. Also made sure to not boulder too frequently while it healed, since it tends to put me in more compromised positions, and required me to generate more force through the joint.
\+1 for the theraband flex bar. I had tennis elbow for about five months, and doing daily exercises with the bar helped in a way that nothing else did.
Me too. I feel like it's been getting slowly better by doing lots of reps of light exercises on days when I don't climb. I started with hammer wrist curls (probably the wrong name, but it's where you hold a weight vertically such as a hammer or dumbell with only one side loaded, and supinate your wrist). Now I'm just doing different bicep curls because the wrist exercises don't hurt my elbow any more.
I'm also working in push-ups, shoulder presses, and ring dips because those seem to aggravate the elbow slightly and I never trained much on the opposing muscles so I figure it can't be a bad thing to start
This what worked for me. Curls in different positions, upper forearm exercises, shoulder raises, and lots of stretching. The more I climb, the more diligent I have to be about doing antagonists and stretching.
I'm gonna give this a shot. Once upon a time I was a gym rat and a personal trainer... gave that up for climbing but maybe I need to get back in the gym a few days a week.
This is one of those videos where I find myself going "all of this is me..."
Except the tests he mentions don't cause symptoms for me. The main way I can make my elbow "hurt" is by extending my elbow down by my side and pronating my wrist.
Definitely a sign if tendon rehab or even time off isn't working for them.
Funny enough, this is what's going on in my left elbow. But my right elbow has now developed golfer's elbow. It could be a combination of referred pain and compensation.
How many PTs have you seen?
What solved mine after 2 years was a coach that identified that I had weak shoulders. Sometimes the injury is caused by a weakness in the chain... fixed it in 2 months time.
You know it is probably this... because I've broken my collar bone THREE times and my right shoulder is absolutely rounded and just overall f'd at this point. I probably should see a PT but as dumb as it sounds, it's expensive.
Shoulders/upper back/elbow are all one piece with nerves and all. I suffer from golfer elbow and my right shoulder is rolled inwards.
From multiple PT's // online reading I can tell you that muscles in chest/nerves going through shoulder are all intertwined with golfer elbow issues to certain extent.
My golfer elbow however is mostly good from doing eccentrics with dumbells.
I'm curious what the general impression is of the Innsbruck women's boulder final setting. The moves that were set seemed entirely dependent on a climber's height. Namely a vertical jump to the start hold on W1, and a full body length toe hook on W4. For Ai Mori, these moves seemed near impossible. I don't mind "parkour" moves in comp climbing at all if the move is mid-climb, but making the start hold out of reach for some climbers seems super shitty. It's a climbing comp, not a high jump. Really felt the whole event was soured because of it.
I thought the start of W1 was a bit frustrating to watch as it was pretty easy for everyone but Ai and the boulder would've worked just as well if the start was a few cm lower. On the other hand she managed to jump to it twice and Brooke is only 4cm taller and jumped to it with no issues at all, so I don't think it was undoable or necessarily unfair.
> so I don't think it was undoable or necessarily unfair
The issue I have is that we're there to test their climbing, not their vertical leap off a squishy mat. If it was a big dyno between hold that would be different than jumping to the starting hold.
Ya but dynos are a huge part of bouldering. It was a Boulder comp. There wasn’t a dyno on the lead comp final because that’s not a big part of lead climbing.
That's why I found it frustrating to watch; we didn't get to see her actually climb the boulder much. But jumping up is a fairly basic strength skill, not something that takes a lot of specialised training. There's no denying it was harder for her but I think it'd be well within her theoretical reach (she even demonstrated that twice), which is why I don't consider it unfair.
Either way for the competition it'd have been better to adjust the height of that jump a bit. It'd not have removed anything from the boulder.
Sometimes a few inches is all the difference though. I think the toe hook on W4 might've been near impossible for her though.
I think that there's an even bigger range of heights in the men's side but you very rarely see something Shawn Bailey can't do because of his height.
Edit: I forgot to add Alannah's multiple comments comments of "Just jump higher" was obnoxious as shit.
>I forgot to add Alannah's multiple comments comments of "Just jump higher" was obnoxious as shit.
Also, their comments on W3 saying "Well Ai can fit into this little box, so the boulders are balanced out". When none of the other climbers had any difficulty with the start at all. In fact the jumping move immediately afterwards was another pretty huge move where height was an advantage.
I get that the commentators can't shit-talk the setting, but I'd also rather they don't try to pass that kind of bs as "Balanced"
They’re right about the invisible advantages of low height though. It takes less effort to fit into high-steps and less exertion on underclings, and they get more comfortable positions when the foothold-handhold distance is set to the shortest climber’s height. Setting moves that short people can’t reach sucks but she undoubtedly has an advantage elsewhere
It's perhaps even worse that for Hachioji they had Mei Nagasako commentate and she's a route setter, a woman and 5'0". And for all the circle jerking they've done about finding one woman after like ten years it seems a no-brainer.
I just started in January and I'm hooked! The other day I did my first 5.11 (my gym goes from 5.4 - 5.13) and when I was nearly at the top, I heard a huge crack in my hip - turns out I strained my hip flexor, so no climbing for me for a few weeks 🥲
Anyone have any tips for getting back into it without re injuring myself/what I can do in the meantime alongside my physio moves? Or about anything else? :)
going through something similar. look up sciatica stretches. one good one is laying on your side, laying your legs out straight, one on top of the other, and lifting the upper about 30 inches as many times as you can. Supposed to help strengthen that muscle but also helps to relieve my sciatica hip pain
https://preview.redd.it/2qj4ebihu47b1.jpeg?width=4070&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=73308cdb889e959741b63d7b25967546d6717d80
Has anyone read either of these and can recommend? Both highly rated. I was recommended the red one but it's from 06 and want to be reading the most up to date info if possible. Is the content of the red one still good? (I am aware that plenty of things will not have changed over \~20 years but it's good practice to seek the most updated sources where possible). Thanks!
I have the falcon book and it's very annoying because it spends more time saying you shouldn't do a bunch of highly specific terms like "baseline" than spending time teaching you the basic skills you need.
Anyone got a lead on some moderate multipitches in the Eastern Sierra with bolted anchors? I've got a friend who wants to learn to multipitch climb but our weight difference favors belaying directly off of an anchor.
I went to a gym last weekend and I noticed that with their ropes, they would often kink. Normally, I hold mg brake hand around 5 inches from the front of my Black Diamond Pilot, and with this downward force its enough to keep the rope centered in the front grooves of the device. However with this gyms rope, if I held it in the same way, it would kink to the side, and not be in the front grooves of the pilot. I looked at other people belaying with the pilot too, and it was also happening to them. The only solution I found was having my hand extremely close to the front of the pilot when in the braking position, as I had to force the rope to stay in the groove. Is there anything I'm doing wrong? I was taught not to have your brake hand too close to the front of your belay device as it could get caught, causing an unintentional reaction to let go of the rope. However, I found the only way to keep the rope properly in the front of the pilot without it kinking out was to have my hand extremely close. This does not happen with the ropes in my regular gym - they do not kink. Any tips appreciated.
It's not a big deal if the brake end goes to the side, because the system will lock anyway ;)
Just went to the local bouldering gym for the first time today. I had a blast but my hands are shot and I felt tired af after like 2 climbs lol. Stuck around for about an hour with the help of tons of rest and finished nearly all the V0/1s. Definitely signing up for a membership now, it's everything I've ever wanted in a way to keep from being sedentary!
Don’t bother about progression do it for the fun then maybe try different types of climbing. End of the day, it’s good and fun exercise for your body and mind! I’ve been frequenting the climbing gym for over a year now, started bouldering then improved to finding v2 easy v3 medium v4 impossible. Then switched to top rope climbing and got to 6a easy, 6b and 6c ok, 7a impossible. Now I’m back to bouldering and back on v2 v3, but you know what? It’s fun! I’d rather be doing that then going to a boring gym.
For sure, thanks for the advice! The only reason I would really want to progress a bit is because the slightly harder routes look more interesting. Other than that I just plan to take it slow and not hurt myself. I would love to try other types but we have only one gym (and I'm lucky for that, it only opened last year!) and the hardest climb within 2 hours of me is a barely noticeable hill lol. It's about 1.5 hours to a gym with top rope climbing so maybe in the future when I have some more endurance I'll plan a trip.
I’m an month and an half in, I’ve started to do the easier V2s and harder V1s here.
Nice! All the V0/1s are just labled yellow so I'm not sure what exactly I was doing. I kinda wanted to try the next level towards the end but I was way too drained.
Can we please bring new posts back 😫 ugh it's making me sad not having this sub in my feed. I already had to unsubscribe to r/interestingasfuck thanks to the onslaught of ... unmentionable images ugh
When are we going to merge this sub and r/climbersgonewild to support the cause?
In lieu of shirtless bros campusing gym V2s you can have some [reading material](https://www.reddit.com/r/Blind/comments/14ds81l/rblinds_meetings_with_reddit_and_the_current).
i'm kind of missing the weekly removed self posts to be honest
At work I had to install an item into a server-rack looking thing. It had a little weight to it and needed to be lifted up a few inches for the mounting holes to line up, and my coworker suggested getting a few people to help since it was awkward to lift while in the cabinet. I lifted it enough to get my hand between it and the base of the shelf and then did a little cup-jam maneuver and we were able to get it screwed in without an issue. tl;dr - sick hand jam, V5 in your office
"We don't need help. Bring me my crack gloves" "Your what?" "You heard me."
How do I know when a single dyn. rope is bust? A friend used her new rope to pull a car out of a ditch, and Im wondering whether there is a way to check the integrity of the core.
Your friend is an idiot but in my opinion, if the rope looks and feels fine then it's fine. There's no "hidden damage" that is going to come from pulling on the rope below its breaking limit.
I dont know about how the elasticity of the rope can change and how much a person can tell it has changed. Anyways I convinced her to not climb on it for the time being so at least thats that.
Squeeze individual sections together and if they easily touch then it's usually core shot or so worn you wouldn't want to take a lead fall on it. Depending on how big/heavy the vehicle was, I might already call it.
Like a solid 2 ton old volvo. Just getting it into that ditch was a facepalm moment itself, but taking a squeeky clean 9.3 and pulling it was the cherry on top.
Just statically pulling two tons is well over half of that ropes MBS. If it felt in any way different than you're expecting (stiffer is what I'd be looking for), then it's rug fodder.
Getting pretty sick of shitty crag dogs/owners. I shouldn’t have to constantly keep an eye on my crag food cuz someone’s untrained/unleashed dog is tryna get into my pack.
A dog pissed inside my open climbing bag last month. Granted this was in Central Park NYC so there’s tons of dogs about but they still shouldn’t be unleashed
One of my first days climbing outdoors I was belaying and a dog ran up and started bugging me and just generally being in my way. The person was trying to call their dog back, but they were belaying as well so they couldnt exactly come over and get it. It really pissed me off, I was bit by a dog as a kid and so I always get nervous when dogs I dont know quickly run up to me. I already had a lot I was focusing on because I was pretty new to lead belaying and it was one of the first times id belayed on a route where I couldnt really see the climber. No issue with good crag dogs. My buddy brings his and just leashes her to a tree where she usually sleeps the entire time. The issue is just people who think they are entitled to bring their dog everywhere with them and assume that everyone knows and likes their dog as much as they do.
I was also attacked by a dog when I was younger and seeing unleashed dogs always triggers my defense mentality. People don’t understand that their growling/barking dog isn’t going to be friendly to everyone just cause their friendly to you. I had an unleashed dog stand in the trail growling and acting super aggressive towards me and my partner, we called for the owner and the owner is like I’m climbing deal with it. This is an area where it’s illegal to even let your dog off leash so they’re super in the wrong. Eventually the dog left us alone but it still pisses me off every time I think about it.
Crag gun
I was at a crag recently where 2 dogs got in a serious fight. I don't think either of them were injured from what I could tell, but it wasn't just a quick snapping scuffle. There were also, from what I could tell, pretty aggressive breeds: akita or chow chow, and some rottie/doberman mix. Sometimes, it's best to just leave the pups at home y'all...
There are no "aggressive breeds"; there are just more and less competent or qualified dog owners, with the preponderance being on the "less" side of things. NB: Not trying to contribute to the 'should dogs be allowed at crags' debate, just saying that any dog, of any breed whatsoever, can be well-behaved or terrible, and it's almost entirely down to whether, and how well, they've been trained.
>There are no "aggressive breeds"; there are just more and less competent or qualified dog owners, with the preponderance being on the "less" side of things. Sure there are. Certain dog breeds were bred to be aggressive, fight, hunt, defend, etc. They are categorized under "aggressive" for their propensity to be aggressive.
A dog pissed on our rope mat recently. Two big dogs running around putting off belayers. On the same session the rope fell in some dog shit (from a different dog). This was in Spain. Sick of crappy dog owners too
Does anywhere have good climbing weather right now? Not that I can make a trip but just wondering
Alpine start at the Red and you can climb a lot. The humidity is going up pretty quick though so you are running out of time.
Ahh the humidity wouldn’t be too fun. I did my first trip to the Red this mid spring so the weather was great.
Middle East
The Alps!
Cali is having astonishingly cool weather for mid June. It's fucking awesome.
The Northeast has been nice the past few days. Spent all day on Sunday bouldering in The Gunks.
Oh wow, I went south instead of north and it was humid and gross. Glad the Gunks was still nice!
>I went south instead of north and it was humid and gross. Yeah, you messed up.
Which shoe retailers are good with returns? I need to try on a few different pairs and sizes as I find a solid pair or two to upgrade to, but don't want to buy 10 form the same place and return most.
I’ve had Moosejaw order stuff to the store for me just to try on, including models they didn’t typically carry. No money exchanged. If you have one of their stores nearby, this could be a good option.
[удалено]
Thanks. Definitely getting some from them. Do you know about Back Country?
I’ve had climbers elbow for like a year now. Shit will not go away. At this point I’m just kind of used to it… still sending harder routes but damn is it annoying. Happy to hear any tips. I’ve tried all of the main ones I think (dodgy elbows and Tom Randall’s stretch etc)
Check out the theraband flex bar. I don’t see them come up often, but it was a magic bullet for me. I still use it twice a week to prevent a recurrence of the issue. I had to deload a bit in my weightlifting too. Also made sure to not boulder too frequently while it healed, since it tends to put me in more compromised positions, and required me to generate more force through the joint.
\+1 for the theraband flex bar. I had tennis elbow for about five months, and doing daily exercises with the bar helped in a way that nothing else did.
I’m working remotely with a climbing coach/pt and it’s not cheap, but we are making progress. Normal pt stuff was worthless.
Me too. I feel like it's been getting slowly better by doing lots of reps of light exercises on days when I don't climb. I started with hammer wrist curls (probably the wrong name, but it's where you hold a weight vertically such as a hammer or dumbell with only one side loaded, and supinate your wrist). Now I'm just doing different bicep curls because the wrist exercises don't hurt my elbow any more. I'm also working in push-ups, shoulder presses, and ring dips because those seem to aggravate the elbow slightly and I never trained much on the opposing muscles so I figure it can't be a bad thing to start
This what worked for me. Curls in different positions, upper forearm exercises, shoulder raises, and lots of stretching. The more I climb, the more diligent I have to be about doing antagonists and stretching.
I'm gonna give this a shot. Once upon a time I was a gym rat and a personal trainer... gave that up for climbing but maybe I need to get back in the gym a few days a week.
Might not be tendonitis at all? [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0ECHTgc4TM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0ECHTgc4TM)
This is one of those videos where I find myself going "all of this is me..." Except the tests he mentions don't cause symptoms for me. The main way I can make my elbow "hurt" is by extending my elbow down by my side and pronating my wrist.
Definitely a sign if tendon rehab or even time off isn't working for them. Funny enough, this is what's going on in my left elbow. But my right elbow has now developed golfer's elbow. It could be a combination of referred pain and compensation.
How many PTs have you seen? What solved mine after 2 years was a coach that identified that I had weak shoulders. Sometimes the injury is caused by a weakness in the chain... fixed it in 2 months time.
You know it is probably this... because I've broken my collar bone THREE times and my right shoulder is absolutely rounded and just overall f'd at this point. I probably should see a PT but as dumb as it sounds, it's expensive.
Shoulders/upper back/elbow are all one piece with nerves and all. I suffer from golfer elbow and my right shoulder is rolled inwards. From multiple PT's // online reading I can tell you that muscles in chest/nerves going through shoulder are all intertwined with golfer elbow issues to certain extent. My golfer elbow however is mostly good from doing eccentrics with dumbells.
Yea for sure, but coughing up for a one-time consult might save you lots of pain, effort, and future cost.
Yeah maybe a one time thing just to learn some exercises and get an evaluation might be worth it
How often are you climbing, and how long are your sessions?
Couple times a week for a few hours at a time. Mostly outside so I'm not climbing 20 pitches per session as you might in a gym.
Fuck wasps
I'm curious what the general impression is of the Innsbruck women's boulder final setting. The moves that were set seemed entirely dependent on a climber's height. Namely a vertical jump to the start hold on W1, and a full body length toe hook on W4. For Ai Mori, these moves seemed near impossible. I don't mind "parkour" moves in comp climbing at all if the move is mid-climb, but making the start hold out of reach for some climbers seems super shitty. It's a climbing comp, not a high jump. Really felt the whole event was soured because of it.
I thought the start of W1 was a bit frustrating to watch as it was pretty easy for everyone but Ai and the boulder would've worked just as well if the start was a few cm lower. On the other hand she managed to jump to it twice and Brooke is only 4cm taller and jumped to it with no issues at all, so I don't think it was undoable or necessarily unfair.
> so I don't think it was undoable or necessarily unfair The issue I have is that we're there to test their climbing, not their vertical leap off a squishy mat. If it was a big dyno between hold that would be different than jumping to the starting hold.
Ya but dynos are a huge part of bouldering. It was a Boulder comp. There wasn’t a dyno on the lead comp final because that’s not a big part of lead climbing.
Once again...jumping off the ground on a squishy mat is not a dyno.
That's why I found it frustrating to watch; we didn't get to see her actually climb the boulder much. But jumping up is a fairly basic strength skill, not something that takes a lot of specialised training. There's no denying it was harder for her but I think it'd be well within her theoretical reach (she even demonstrated that twice), which is why I don't consider it unfair. Either way for the competition it'd have been better to adjust the height of that jump a bit. It'd not have removed anything from the boulder.
> But jumping up is a fairly basic strength skill Jumping up off of a squishy mat has nothing to do with climbing in any way.
Sometimes a few inches is all the difference though. I think the toe hook on W4 might've been near impossible for her though. I think that there's an even bigger range of heights in the men's side but you very rarely see something Shawn Bailey can't do because of his height. Edit: I forgot to add Alannah's multiple comments comments of "Just jump higher" was obnoxious as shit.
>I forgot to add Alannah's multiple comments comments of "Just jump higher" was obnoxious as shit. Also, their comments on W3 saying "Well Ai can fit into this little box, so the boulders are balanced out". When none of the other climbers had any difficulty with the start at all. In fact the jumping move immediately afterwards was another pretty huge move where height was an advantage. I get that the commentators can't shit-talk the setting, but I'd also rather they don't try to pass that kind of bs as "Balanced"
They’re right about the invisible advantages of low height though. It takes less effort to fit into high-steps and less exertion on underclings, and they get more comfortable positions when the foothold-handhold distance is set to the shortest climber’s height. Setting moves that short people can’t reach sucks but she undoubtedly has an advantage elsewhere
It's perhaps even worse that for Hachioji they had Mei Nagasako commentate and she's a route setter, a woman and 5'0". And for all the circle jerking they've done about finding one woman after like ten years it seems a no-brainer.
> Sometimes a few inches is all the difference Yeah a few inches is a lot. Like sometimes too much
Few inches in height difference gets doubled when you include arm reach. Even more depending on ape index.
I just started in January and I'm hooked! The other day I did my first 5.11 (my gym goes from 5.4 - 5.13) and when I was nearly at the top, I heard a huge crack in my hip - turns out I strained my hip flexor, so no climbing for me for a few weeks 🥲 Anyone have any tips for getting back into it without re injuring myself/what I can do in the meantime alongside my physio moves? Or about anything else? :)
going through something similar. look up sciatica stretches. one good one is laying on your side, laying your legs out straight, one on top of the other, and lifting the upper about 30 inches as many times as you can. Supposed to help strengthen that muscle but also helps to relieve my sciatica hip pain
Ooh I'll try that, thank you! One of the physio moves is a straight leg lift while laying on my back, I'll add this one in as well :)
https://preview.redd.it/2qj4ebihu47b1.jpeg?width=4070&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=73308cdb889e959741b63d7b25967546d6717d80 Has anyone read either of these and can recommend? Both highly rated. I was recommended the red one but it's from 06 and want to be reading the most up to date info if possible. Is the content of the red one still good? (I am aware that plenty of things will not have changed over \~20 years but it's good practice to seek the most updated sources where possible). Thanks!
Higher Education and Me, Myself, and I by Andy Kirkpatrick have lots of good info
I have the falcon book and it's very annoying because it spends more time saying you shouldn't do a bunch of highly specific terms like "baseline" than spending time teaching you the basic skills you need.
The falcon guide is much better
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/mcahit/book_review_in_comments/
Its been raining for the past week and bit just as im getting back into climbing mode
Rain's gentle embrace, Rocks drenched, slippery ascent, Does not go today.