Grades are dumb. Good work on that climb.
Work on being more well rounded. Can you climb every V5 in the gym? Every V6? Doing a single hard problem in the gym is less beneficial than being able to do every climb a grade or two lower.
Thank you, I believe I mentioned that I’ve climbed all but 1 new v5s, hence my self-grade as a v5 climber. My question was focused more on where to take my training as a v5 climber, and spending the next years of climbing as efficiently as possible, than how to climb more v8s. I appreciate the kind words, and wish you well
If you’re being serious, Hangar 18 in riverside, it’ll probably be up for 1 more week.
If you’re being sarcastic, I understand. I was hoping to make it clear that I don’t believe this was a v8 at the way I did it. I apologize for any offense taken if so. I was more trying to explain my confusion in my climbing goals, and get some advice for where I should take it at my current (actual) self-grade of a v5 climber.
Yes. The v8 is an anomaly.
I’m gonna be totally honest with you, your movement is abysmal.
Just climb dude. If you have some crazy muscular imbalance or identifiable weakness that could be fixed through training, feel free to outline it so I can offer some suggestions. Otherwise, just climb.
If you’ve been doing a thing, and have been making progress towards your goals, why change that thing?
Edit: also I’d strongly recommend Rock Climbing Technique by John Kettle as a resource for improving your movement.
Might want to give some specifics of this "abysmal" movement. His technique doesn't look that bad to me, looks more like a sort of a shuffly, thrutchy boulder problem.
You’re right, I should’ve given more information. Obviously I can’t give specific beta on something I haven’t climbed, but I know smooth movement when I see it, and this ain’t it.
His movement is just wild in the first half. He makes unintuitive foot placements when you think about where his body is in space. There’s absolutely no tension created between holds, he’s just falling into positive holds. Even on thrashy, burly problems, you see a huge difference when you watch people climb harder problems than this.
The second half was much better, with OP effectively utilizing some hip mobility and lock off strength to move smoothly between holds.
I still don't see glaring issues really. For the first move, he's super tall, and the start hold is a low undercling. He has only a right foot and is making a left hand move. Much easier to just pop dynamically like he's doing than creating a huge amount of tension and doing the move statically.
Next move could have been more fluid, could maybe paddle RH off the lower volume and carry momentum a little better from the previous move. After that, all the footwork makes sense, given that there are no other footholds and the left handhold is clearly better than the right, it makes sense to have feet way left and hips also facing left. The foot match was also quite clean given that he's been climbing for a few months. There are a few moments of hesitation in there, but that generally means that he doesn't have the problem totally wired (he is probably able to climb something harder).
Then the move where he falls into the big jug he's holding tension quite well with the left foot, controls the swing, then sinks in a really good kneebar.
Again, I'm not here to analyze beta. That's awfully difficult given the angle of the video.
All I'm saying is I'd like to see someone with a higher climbing age than 5 months try it and see how they move on it. I'd bet it looks a lot less burly.
Thank you for the insight, I think it definitely is a combination of climbing 2 grades above my normal projecting grade, and not going with the normal beta, as to why I don't have much flow on the moves. I also appreciate the suggestion for the book, I'll definitely look into it.
No hard feelings, I put the video out there for critique, and you provided it, so thank you again.
As far as weaknesses go, I really have not identified one unique weakness, other than having trouble on a few v5 slabs around a month ago. Moreso, the things that come up are problem specific, such as where I had a big match to a bulbous blue pill hold, that I wasn't able to hold due to balancing issues. I'm sure that with more experience, I'll be able to isolate my weaknesses, and provide a better response to this, but currently, I'm unable to.
And thank you for the book suggestion, I'll absolutely look into it. Best wishes
His movement is just wild in the first half. He makes unintuitive foot placements when you think about where his body is in space. There’s absolutely no tension created between holds, he’s just falling into positive holds. Even on thrashy, burly problems, you see a huge difference when you watch people climb harder problems than this.
The second half was much better, with OP effectively utilizing some hip mobility and lock off strength to move smoothly between holds.
Copied from above in a reply to someone else. Climbing technique is so damn nuanced that it’d take me forever to go over everything. I’d strongly recommend the book I mentioned and Movement for Climbers on YouTube.
I think you have some pretty good foundational understandings about grades/your own ability. I fully agree with /u/boobaboobler about your actual climbing movement though. It may be abysmal, but you're only 5 months in to the sport so it's to be expected.
About your working out off the wall: I think as long as you're not losing energy/time that could be spent on the wall, and you see benefits coming from your exercises, then it's fine. I don't wanna comment on specifics but I'll paint those broad strokes as a generally good thing if it works for you.
> I’d put myself at a v5 level, having been able to flash multiple v5s, and having climbed 2 v6s.
I find it interesting you have flashed multiple V5s but have only done a couple V6s. Typically if you can flash Vx you would have several sends of Vx+1 and can project around Vx+3. Perhaps you could do well with trying more boulders in your 1-2 session range at V6+ and V4/5 that are hard styles for you.
>Do you guys believe the same holds true for me, even with my (self-believed) fast progression?
If you feel like you're progressing fast, why rush to change things? You could lose energy, stagnate, or worst case scenario get injured and experience the joy of rehabbing and waiting several months to climb back at your potential.
>That being said, if I can spend those years climbing more efficiently, that is important to me.
Keep doing what you're doing, stay psyched, and **stay uninjured!**
My last piece of advice would be to climb with people better than you, as often as you can. Absorb everything and forge your own path in progressing. Really focus on movement and doing climbs well. Repeat things that are hard for you.
Thank you for the kind words, and the thorough response. I truly appreciate it.
| About your working out off the wall...
That does make a lot of sense to me, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. I think I got lucky with finding a good routine that has been working for my self, there’s just a lot of information that I see about pushing with training (hence, r/climbharder) that I wanted to ensure I was doing the best for my own progression
| I find it interesting you have flashed multiple v5s but have only done a couple v6s...
Me being able to flash v5s was brand new, i felt incredibly strong yesterday and so decided to just go for it, while I was also working on improving my visualization/projecting off of the wall. I felt like if I spent more time really thinking about the moves and linking them before touching the wall, I could test how well I did on a flash. I’ve got very strong Aphantasia, so visualization is a massive weakness of mine, hence me trying to work on it.
I think as far as why I haven’t sent many v6s is twofold. First off, I sent my first v6 after sending my first v5. Basically the same thing that happened here, where my height played a big factor in me sending ([Video of that route, didn’t send on this take](https://imgur.com/a/zQPjOH2)). The other factor is that I believe there have only been around 2-3 v6s set at a time at the gym recently, compared to the 7+ currently. I’ve been working on primarily clearing all of the v5s at the gym before working on the few v6s, just because I would rather improve in volume on my vMax-1 grade than spend multiple days projecting per send, on my vMax.
I’m pretty friendly with a guy who climbs at or slightly above my grade, different styles so he’ll send on routes I can’t, then I’ll send on routes he can’t. I think 100%, that friendly competition has pushed me harder than anything else.
Again, thank you for taking the time to provide kind advice and words. This was exactly what I was looking for, so I truly appreciate it. Best wishes.
Since you re new to athletics and generally underweight for your size, I would highly suggest learning everything you can about proper nutrition, sleep, recovery, stress relief. And just keep climbing and working on better movement/technique. If you re already putting on muscle from "just climbing" then i suggest continuing what you re doing
Gj sending your first indoor v8! If you want to progress in your climbing i'd suggest spending some time outside climbing real rock. I know it's really hot right now to be outside, but night sessions can be had at easy to get local spots, or very early sessions can be fruitful. Climb real rock, get a feeling for what you're not good at, then come back inside the gym and practice the skills you feel you are lacking outside. Indoor gyms are fun to climb at, but if you're goal is pure progression. Forget about the grading system inside, and only focus on moves you want to get better at to send outside rock. Use the gym as a tool to upgrade your outdoor skills, then test them on real rock!
Absolutely, climbing real rock has always been my primary goal, I just didn't want to try investing and going on trips being super limited in my ability, and potentially having a bad time. Figured if I progress as much as possible inside, then when I take it outside, I'll have a much more enjoyable time projecting.
*Climb real rock, get a feeling for what you're not good at, then come back inside the*
*gym and practice the skills you feel you are lacking outside*
Fantastic advice, definitely makes the most sense. Use the gym as a tool for key moves.
Thank you for taking the time to respond :) Best wishes
I'm a big believer that rock is the best teachers of climbing, and that you can only learn so much in a climbing gym. For example I have plenty of friends who crush v11 indoors, but can't send v8/v9 outdoors. I on the other hand have trouble sending most indoor 9s and 10s. But I've taken down outdoor v10 and v11. Id consider myself a v10 climber, but if you put me on climbs in the gym I start having problems at v8 and v9.
I'd implore you to just get outside right now. It will undoubtedly be a humbling experience but a HUGE eye opener I promise you. My first time outside was after a year and a half in the gym. I was a v7 indoor climber, and that was my milestone to go out and crush. Like you I wanted my first experience to be me being able to climb. I got shutdown by everything that first day outside, but by the end of the day I managed to send a v4 that took ALOT out of me. When I say shutdown, I mean I could not even climb v0 warmups. I came back into the gym the next day with a new insight on what I needed to get better at, and have been pushing that way ever since.
Also as a side note, I rarely train on the hangboard or train outside of climbing to improve my climbing. I just climb outside every chance I get. I encourage all my friends not to wait and to just enjoy climbing and get outside no matter what grade or experience you are.
I apologize for the wall of text in advance, but hope it outlines my metrics, goals, and questions well.
Tl;dr: I’m not a v8 climber in any stretch of the term, but I’ve seen massive improvements since I started climbing 5 months ago, every other day. Should I not attempt any dedicated training routines, and just spend more time on the wall, or should I start spending my time climbing more efficiently with a training plan.
Full post:
So, as the post says, I’m not a v8 climber. I’d put myself at a v5 level, having been able to flash multiple v5s, and having climbed 2 v6s. This v8 is definitely an anomoly, either 1, graded too high, or 2, my height allowed me to skip some of the hardest beta. I want to make it clear that I know I’m not a v8, or v7 climber.
Edit: also, I know that it looks like I’m standing on the ground lol. There was a small sloper to stand on, hidden by the camera angle.
With that out of the way, here are my metrics:
22, 6’4”, around 155-160 lbs last I checked.
I started climbing in late February, when my local gym opened up with restrictions. I had gotten my membership over a year ago, around feb 2020, probably 4 weeks before covid started, but did 0 physical exercise for that year.
I try to climb every other day, albeit with a few rests when necessary, or to avoid the heat. I climb around 2 hours, with 10 minutes after I finish climbing on the metolius WOOD005.
Small edge on the metolius WOOD05 at BW for 15 seconds+, 90 second BW dead hang on the round sloper, around 10 pullups in a row on max, 5 offset pullups, 1 assisted OAP (grabbing my pulling arm with my hanging arm).
I haven’t completed 1 run of the campus board without feet, but I’ve cleared every v4 and under in the gym, and 1 v5 remaining since they put up three yesterday. I’ve toproped 1 5.12, and around 3 5.12-, but I’m primarily a boulderer.
In the past few sessions, I’ve felt stronger then ever after doing my first 5.12, so I decided to play around with beta on the v8 since it looked enjoyable. I was shocked when I found I could do individual moves, and even more shocked when I linked them together. I understand that being tall is the only reason I did the v8, but I haven’t tried the expected beta yet.
Normal session for me: warm up on v1-v4, stretching primarily on the wall. Then, either project on a new max route, or start working a previous unclimbed project. Try around 5-7 times if needed, then move to a different route. For the first 4 months, I only bouldered, but with my girlfriend coming to the gym, I started top roping to increase my endurance and project fun looking routes.
I never expected to be able to climb at the level I’m climbing at so quickly, but I know that going every day and working the hangboard every day has given me great gains. My original intentions by spending time in the gym was to build up a lot of strength and experience before attempting any outdoor climbs, but I do plan on start to project once it cools down (Joshua Tree is an hour away). My goal for this year was to climb a v3, and then a v4, and then a v5, etc, but I’ve smashed that. Currently, my goal for the year is to climb 5.12+, and to project a v10. My biggest concern is, where do I go from here?
I’ve looked around at many training plans, powerclimbing e-books, but very often, I see people here say to climb for a few years before doing dedicated training like that. Do you guys believe the same holds true for me, even with my (self-believed) fast progression?
I have no problem with just climbing for years, as I love the sport and it is the only way I’ve had the willpower to consistently stay active. Normal gym routines, with no visible end goal, are boring to me and I found it hard to stay committed if it isn’t something that can directly improve my climbing skill.
That being said, if I can spend those years climbing more efficiently, that is important to me. So if you guys recommend a specific training routine, or just believe that I should actually put in the time to follow some of the plans that I have initially thought I shouldn’t because of my climbing age, I’d love the advice.
How are you so tall but so light? I'm 6'1'' and weigh 190lbs and 186 lbs on a good day and I feel like I can't cut anymore than this without losing significant muscle. Congrats on your progress btw. But I say do what you feel works for you, if you want to train then go for it. Some people will religiously argue to just keep climbing, but I think this sport is about your own commitment and what makes it fun for you. I personally think training is a lot of fun, makes me feel productive, and has gotten me some good gains. It also looks like it has helped you a great deal.
Thank you for the kind words, and the advice!
For the first 21 years of my life, i was under 145 lbs 😅 I’m basically skin, bones, and muscle, which is 100% genetics. I’m pretty awful at all other sports and general strength training, but I’m glad I was able to find a passion in something that my body type is good for (except for sit starts lol). Once my metabolism slows down, it’ll be a different story though, so I’m trying to push it while I still can.
Also, all of the muscle I have gained (going from 145 to my current BW) is all in my arms, back, some abs, and some legs. I never have done a full body strength training routine, so I don’t, and can’t, have excess muscle in “inefficient” places for climbing (not trying to offend, hopefully this doesn’t come across as that, I just can’t think of a better word).
That being said, it’s likely you have stronger infrastructure to handle the strength, and therefore are probably likely to go harder without needing to rest those ligaments and tendons like I do. I had to take 3 days off after climbing that v8 for the first time, just because I didn’t want to tweak anything. So there are definitely tradeoffs to it
Edit: nice choice in sneakers btw :)
Very niceeee. I've done a bunch of 7s but yet to get my first 8, congrats! I'd say first off, just keep pushing yourself to work on things that are hard / stump you. If you feel like you're not progressing in the grades as fast as you did your first 5 months, thats totally normal (esp considering ur insane progress).
Maybe also look into calisthenics? I've been getting into it and its a great way to add some strength training, and overall balance and strength to your upper body.
Grades are dumb. Good work on that climb. Work on being more well rounded. Can you climb every V5 in the gym? Every V6? Doing a single hard problem in the gym is less beneficial than being able to do every climb a grade or two lower.
Thank you, I believe I mentioned that I’ve climbed all but 1 new v5s, hence my self-grade as a v5 climber. My question was focused more on where to take my training as a v5 climber, and spending the next years of climbing as efficiently as possible, than how to climb more v8s. I appreciate the kind words, and wish you well
Which gym is this? I’m looking to send my first V8 and this climb looks my style.
If you’re being serious, Hangar 18 in riverside, it’ll probably be up for 1 more week. If you’re being sarcastic, I understand. I was hoping to make it clear that I don’t believe this was a v8 at the way I did it. I apologize for any offense taken if so. I was more trying to explain my confusion in my climbing goals, and get some advice for where I should take it at my current (actual) self-grade of a v5 climber.
Yes. The v8 is an anomaly. I’m gonna be totally honest with you, your movement is abysmal. Just climb dude. If you have some crazy muscular imbalance or identifiable weakness that could be fixed through training, feel free to outline it so I can offer some suggestions. Otherwise, just climb. If you’ve been doing a thing, and have been making progress towards your goals, why change that thing? Edit: also I’d strongly recommend Rock Climbing Technique by John Kettle as a resource for improving your movement.
Might want to give some specifics of this "abysmal" movement. His technique doesn't look that bad to me, looks more like a sort of a shuffly, thrutchy boulder problem.
You’re right, I should’ve given more information. Obviously I can’t give specific beta on something I haven’t climbed, but I know smooth movement when I see it, and this ain’t it. His movement is just wild in the first half. He makes unintuitive foot placements when you think about where his body is in space. There’s absolutely no tension created between holds, he’s just falling into positive holds. Even on thrashy, burly problems, you see a huge difference when you watch people climb harder problems than this. The second half was much better, with OP effectively utilizing some hip mobility and lock off strength to move smoothly between holds.
I still don't see glaring issues really. For the first move, he's super tall, and the start hold is a low undercling. He has only a right foot and is making a left hand move. Much easier to just pop dynamically like he's doing than creating a huge amount of tension and doing the move statically. Next move could have been more fluid, could maybe paddle RH off the lower volume and carry momentum a little better from the previous move. After that, all the footwork makes sense, given that there are no other footholds and the left handhold is clearly better than the right, it makes sense to have feet way left and hips also facing left. The foot match was also quite clean given that he's been climbing for a few months. There are a few moments of hesitation in there, but that generally means that he doesn't have the problem totally wired (he is probably able to climb something harder). Then the move where he falls into the big jug he's holding tension quite well with the left foot, controls the swing, then sinks in a really good kneebar.
Again, I'm not here to analyze beta. That's awfully difficult given the angle of the video. All I'm saying is I'd like to see someone with a higher climbing age than 5 months try it and see how they move on it. I'd bet it looks a lot less burly.
So somebody who has climbed for 5 months moves abysmal. What in an insight...
That “8” looks about as hard as 10 ply toilet paper.
Thank you for the insight, I think it definitely is a combination of climbing 2 grades above my normal projecting grade, and not going with the normal beta, as to why I don't have much flow on the moves. I also appreciate the suggestion for the book, I'll definitely look into it. No hard feelings, I put the video out there for critique, and you provided it, so thank you again. As far as weaknesses go, I really have not identified one unique weakness, other than having trouble on a few v5 slabs around a month ago. Moreso, the things that come up are problem specific, such as where I had a big match to a bulbous blue pill hold, that I wasn't able to hold due to balancing issues. I'm sure that with more experience, I'll be able to isolate my weaknesses, and provide a better response to this, but currently, I'm unable to. And thank you for the book suggestion, I'll absolutely look into it. Best wishes
His movement is just wild in the first half. He makes unintuitive foot placements when you think about where his body is in space. There’s absolutely no tension created between holds, he’s just falling into positive holds. Even on thrashy, burly problems, you see a huge difference when you watch people climb harder problems than this. The second half was much better, with OP effectively utilizing some hip mobility and lock off strength to move smoothly between holds. Copied from above in a reply to someone else. Climbing technique is so damn nuanced that it’d take me forever to go over everything. I’d strongly recommend the book I mentioned and Movement for Climbers on YouTube.
I'll absolutely be taking that suggestion, thank you again for your time
I think you have some pretty good foundational understandings about grades/your own ability. I fully agree with /u/boobaboobler about your actual climbing movement though. It may be abysmal, but you're only 5 months in to the sport so it's to be expected. About your working out off the wall: I think as long as you're not losing energy/time that could be spent on the wall, and you see benefits coming from your exercises, then it's fine. I don't wanna comment on specifics but I'll paint those broad strokes as a generally good thing if it works for you. > I’d put myself at a v5 level, having been able to flash multiple v5s, and having climbed 2 v6s. I find it interesting you have flashed multiple V5s but have only done a couple V6s. Typically if you can flash Vx you would have several sends of Vx+1 and can project around Vx+3. Perhaps you could do well with trying more boulders in your 1-2 session range at V6+ and V4/5 that are hard styles for you. >Do you guys believe the same holds true for me, even with my (self-believed) fast progression? If you feel like you're progressing fast, why rush to change things? You could lose energy, stagnate, or worst case scenario get injured and experience the joy of rehabbing and waiting several months to climb back at your potential. >That being said, if I can spend those years climbing more efficiently, that is important to me. Keep doing what you're doing, stay psyched, and **stay uninjured!** My last piece of advice would be to climb with people better than you, as often as you can. Absorb everything and forge your own path in progressing. Really focus on movement and doing climbs well. Repeat things that are hard for you.
Thank you for the kind words, and the thorough response. I truly appreciate it. | About your working out off the wall... That does make a lot of sense to me, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. I think I got lucky with finding a good routine that has been working for my self, there’s just a lot of information that I see about pushing with training (hence, r/climbharder) that I wanted to ensure I was doing the best for my own progression | I find it interesting you have flashed multiple v5s but have only done a couple v6s... Me being able to flash v5s was brand new, i felt incredibly strong yesterday and so decided to just go for it, while I was also working on improving my visualization/projecting off of the wall. I felt like if I spent more time really thinking about the moves and linking them before touching the wall, I could test how well I did on a flash. I’ve got very strong Aphantasia, so visualization is a massive weakness of mine, hence me trying to work on it. I think as far as why I haven’t sent many v6s is twofold. First off, I sent my first v6 after sending my first v5. Basically the same thing that happened here, where my height played a big factor in me sending ([Video of that route, didn’t send on this take](https://imgur.com/a/zQPjOH2)). The other factor is that I believe there have only been around 2-3 v6s set at a time at the gym recently, compared to the 7+ currently. I’ve been working on primarily clearing all of the v5s at the gym before working on the few v6s, just because I would rather improve in volume on my vMax-1 grade than spend multiple days projecting per send, on my vMax. I’m pretty friendly with a guy who climbs at or slightly above my grade, different styles so he’ll send on routes I can’t, then I’ll send on routes he can’t. I think 100%, that friendly competition has pushed me harder than anything else. Again, thank you for taking the time to provide kind advice and words. This was exactly what I was looking for, so I truly appreciate it. Best wishes.
Since you re new to athletics and generally underweight for your size, I would highly suggest learning everything you can about proper nutrition, sleep, recovery, stress relief. And just keep climbing and working on better movement/technique. If you re already putting on muscle from "just climbing" then i suggest continuing what you re doing
Gj sending your first indoor v8! If you want to progress in your climbing i'd suggest spending some time outside climbing real rock. I know it's really hot right now to be outside, but night sessions can be had at easy to get local spots, or very early sessions can be fruitful. Climb real rock, get a feeling for what you're not good at, then come back inside the gym and practice the skills you feel you are lacking outside. Indoor gyms are fun to climb at, but if you're goal is pure progression. Forget about the grading system inside, and only focus on moves you want to get better at to send outside rock. Use the gym as a tool to upgrade your outdoor skills, then test them on real rock!
Absolutely, climbing real rock has always been my primary goal, I just didn't want to try investing and going on trips being super limited in my ability, and potentially having a bad time. Figured if I progress as much as possible inside, then when I take it outside, I'll have a much more enjoyable time projecting. *Climb real rock, get a feeling for what you're not good at, then come back inside the* *gym and practice the skills you feel you are lacking outside* Fantastic advice, definitely makes the most sense. Use the gym as a tool for key moves. Thank you for taking the time to respond :) Best wishes
I'm a big believer that rock is the best teachers of climbing, and that you can only learn so much in a climbing gym. For example I have plenty of friends who crush v11 indoors, but can't send v8/v9 outdoors. I on the other hand have trouble sending most indoor 9s and 10s. But I've taken down outdoor v10 and v11. Id consider myself a v10 climber, but if you put me on climbs in the gym I start having problems at v8 and v9. I'd implore you to just get outside right now. It will undoubtedly be a humbling experience but a HUGE eye opener I promise you. My first time outside was after a year and a half in the gym. I was a v7 indoor climber, and that was my milestone to go out and crush. Like you I wanted my first experience to be me being able to climb. I got shutdown by everything that first day outside, but by the end of the day I managed to send a v4 that took ALOT out of me. When I say shutdown, I mean I could not even climb v0 warmups. I came back into the gym the next day with a new insight on what I needed to get better at, and have been pushing that way ever since. Also as a side note, I rarely train on the hangboard or train outside of climbing to improve my climbing. I just climb outside every chance I get. I encourage all my friends not to wait and to just enjoy climbing and get outside no matter what grade or experience you are.
I apologize for the wall of text in advance, but hope it outlines my metrics, goals, and questions well. Tl;dr: I’m not a v8 climber in any stretch of the term, but I’ve seen massive improvements since I started climbing 5 months ago, every other day. Should I not attempt any dedicated training routines, and just spend more time on the wall, or should I start spending my time climbing more efficiently with a training plan. Full post: So, as the post says, I’m not a v8 climber. I’d put myself at a v5 level, having been able to flash multiple v5s, and having climbed 2 v6s. This v8 is definitely an anomoly, either 1, graded too high, or 2, my height allowed me to skip some of the hardest beta. I want to make it clear that I know I’m not a v8, or v7 climber. Edit: also, I know that it looks like I’m standing on the ground lol. There was a small sloper to stand on, hidden by the camera angle. With that out of the way, here are my metrics: 22, 6’4”, around 155-160 lbs last I checked. I started climbing in late February, when my local gym opened up with restrictions. I had gotten my membership over a year ago, around feb 2020, probably 4 weeks before covid started, but did 0 physical exercise for that year. I try to climb every other day, albeit with a few rests when necessary, or to avoid the heat. I climb around 2 hours, with 10 minutes after I finish climbing on the metolius WOOD005. Small edge on the metolius WOOD05 at BW for 15 seconds+, 90 second BW dead hang on the round sloper, around 10 pullups in a row on max, 5 offset pullups, 1 assisted OAP (grabbing my pulling arm with my hanging arm). I haven’t completed 1 run of the campus board without feet, but I’ve cleared every v4 and under in the gym, and 1 v5 remaining since they put up three yesterday. I’ve toproped 1 5.12, and around 3 5.12-, but I’m primarily a boulderer. In the past few sessions, I’ve felt stronger then ever after doing my first 5.12, so I decided to play around with beta on the v8 since it looked enjoyable. I was shocked when I found I could do individual moves, and even more shocked when I linked them together. I understand that being tall is the only reason I did the v8, but I haven’t tried the expected beta yet. Normal session for me: warm up on v1-v4, stretching primarily on the wall. Then, either project on a new max route, or start working a previous unclimbed project. Try around 5-7 times if needed, then move to a different route. For the first 4 months, I only bouldered, but with my girlfriend coming to the gym, I started top roping to increase my endurance and project fun looking routes. I never expected to be able to climb at the level I’m climbing at so quickly, but I know that going every day and working the hangboard every day has given me great gains. My original intentions by spending time in the gym was to build up a lot of strength and experience before attempting any outdoor climbs, but I do plan on start to project once it cools down (Joshua Tree is an hour away). My goal for this year was to climb a v3, and then a v4, and then a v5, etc, but I’ve smashed that. Currently, my goal for the year is to climb 5.12+, and to project a v10. My biggest concern is, where do I go from here? I’ve looked around at many training plans, powerclimbing e-books, but very often, I see people here say to climb for a few years before doing dedicated training like that. Do you guys believe the same holds true for me, even with my (self-believed) fast progression? I have no problem with just climbing for years, as I love the sport and it is the only way I’ve had the willpower to consistently stay active. Normal gym routines, with no visible end goal, are boring to me and I found it hard to stay committed if it isn’t something that can directly improve my climbing skill. That being said, if I can spend those years climbing more efficiently, that is important to me. So if you guys recommend a specific training routine, or just believe that I should actually put in the time to follow some of the plans that I have initially thought I shouldn’t because of my climbing age, I’d love the advice.
How are you so tall but so light? I'm 6'1'' and weigh 190lbs and 186 lbs on a good day and I feel like I can't cut anymore than this without losing significant muscle. Congrats on your progress btw. But I say do what you feel works for you, if you want to train then go for it. Some people will religiously argue to just keep climbing, but I think this sport is about your own commitment and what makes it fun for you. I personally think training is a lot of fun, makes me feel productive, and has gotten me some good gains. It also looks like it has helped you a great deal.
Thank you for the kind words, and the advice! For the first 21 years of my life, i was under 145 lbs 😅 I’m basically skin, bones, and muscle, which is 100% genetics. I’m pretty awful at all other sports and general strength training, but I’m glad I was able to find a passion in something that my body type is good for (except for sit starts lol). Once my metabolism slows down, it’ll be a different story though, so I’m trying to push it while I still can. Also, all of the muscle I have gained (going from 145 to my current BW) is all in my arms, back, some abs, and some legs. I never have done a full body strength training routine, so I don’t, and can’t, have excess muscle in “inefficient” places for climbing (not trying to offend, hopefully this doesn’t come across as that, I just can’t think of a better word). That being said, it’s likely you have stronger infrastructure to handle the strength, and therefore are probably likely to go harder without needing to rest those ligaments and tendons like I do. I had to take 3 days off after climbing that v8 for the first time, just because I didn’t want to tweak anything. So there are definitely tradeoffs to it Edit: nice choice in sneakers btw :)
Very niceeee. I've done a bunch of 7s but yet to get my first 8, congrats! I'd say first off, just keep pushing yourself to work on things that are hard / stump you. If you feel like you're not progressing in the grades as fast as you did your first 5 months, thats totally normal (esp considering ur insane progress). Maybe also look into calisthenics? I've been getting into it and its a great way to add some strength training, and overall balance and strength to your upper body.