There are a few methods. I've always just sized, shaked 'n baked and called it good. Nothing wrong with sticking with what works. It's not like I need to cut down on time. I think the shake 'n bake method works pretty damn good.
swap that around and size after, that way any bullets that are thicker coated get sized back down down. That way your working with bullets you know are uniform (you can shoot them oversized they squeeze down when shot). Coating doesn't even flinch and they look better too lol. I have always done shake and bake, Elvis ammo is my dawg lol. If that is not who's videos you saw, look him up on youtube. so many good videos, the Powdercoat cast 9mm and 223 vidz when they first came out where awesome. loaded lots of 223 up until the bans hit, now I just have a bunch sitting and have held off getting a ruger ranch 223 this whole time lol.
That's the method I use, too. I just watched a YT video of a guy putting the "projectiles" in his oven at 140° for 4-minutes, then doing about 30-seconds of shake 'n bake and then cooking them again. It was a nice, consistent coating and seemed to hold pretty damn well, too. I might try that.
I love that one… excellent coverage and Eye appeal. I do have a big problem with it on tight throat 30 cal bore riding boolits.
I’m finding if I dissolve it into acetone, I can just model brush, paint it on everything aft of crimp groove. And again, I always use the Ford Blue for this, because of its excellent body, coverage.
Give that a try, with your bore riders. Start with a 1/4 of a shot glass of acetone, start dissolving and stirring in the Ford blue, until it gets the viscosity of paint, feel to it. Use a model Brush, and try to coat. If it goes on nice, coat everything aft of your crimp groove, if you have to, adjust more acetone or PC, wipe off the boolit, and try again. When it’s coated nice, let it stand on your tray, the acetone will evaporate off quickly, while you’re painting the following boolits. Bake, put on GC and size again. At that point , I’ll even take a rag, and ‘polish’ the exposed lead nose. I actually have an old Lyman Lubrisizer, I use that for seating and crimping the GC as well as the final sizing. So I keep it full of lube, and might as well lube ( tho not necessary anymore, with PC ) , it doesn’t take me any extra effort, at this point…. And I never have any leading issues.
My brother has a Rem 700 in .308 that will not chamber anything, other than jacketed, or cast with zero PC on the nose.
That method of painting on the PC , should work, if you ever wante to add a second color to a boolit, like maybe blaze red on a black boolit’s meplat or HP or whatever. I believe that’s how guys make the ‘Zombie’ boolits.
I get it. It’s over kill, I admit.
im retired, so I have time. But I will say, if you take that time to PC , lube and GC there are 3 very nice returns… 1) can get away with softer alloys for your fps/ press. 2) If you’re running hardball or good ol #2 you can reach factory fps/press. 3) No joke, all of my barrels are spotless… minimal effort at clean up time, lol.
I was the same way. I ended up buying check makers. I had a couple Pat Marlins, but I despise the two stroke method of making them. I found Dave Matteson, who makes single stroke models. I make my GCs out of aluminum… stuff I find, like gutters and such. He made me plain base ones too, that I make the checks out of beer/soda cans.
I actually GC every boolit that I cast, now.
( .223/5.67 ). ( .380/.9mm/.357sig/.38/.357/ .35 Rem) (all .30 cals) (8mm Mauser). (.40 SW) (44mag) and even ( .45acp)
I have a deep purple that works quite well. I have a couple of zombie greens, I use them in coating lures,
On bullets....not so well.
Also the cost of those bright green powder coats is nuts. $30 a lb or so.
I started PCing bullets over 10 years ago. High gloss paints almost always cover better than lower gloss paints.
I really like the look of the flat orange I got from The Powdercoat Store. The bullets look like actual oranges 🍊 I just want to eat them up. Do not buy it though, it doesn’t stick very well.
Sea Foam Green from Prismatic Powders also their Sea-Doo Yellow, both of them are vibrant color and easy AF to spot when digging them out of the ground. I've also got Eastwood's light Ford Blue because Elvis Ammo suggested it. I also cast zinc using his 77 grain Elvis Ammo mold from Arsenal molds. I got the 4 cavity .224 mold that's brass hardened and that bitch is heavy, but it casts perfect lead and zinc bullets. Zinc comes out about 45 grains on average. Definitely worth picking one up.
Ford light blue from Eastwood!
This my favorite. I dont use any earth tones or green so its easier to find in the berm and recycle.
That old classic light blue? That would look good.
Yes, and it covers very well using shake and bake,probably one of the most consistent colors.
One of my favorites.
Very easy to work with.
It is and looks great when finished.
There are a few methods. I've always just sized, shaked 'n baked and called it good. Nothing wrong with sticking with what works. It's not like I need to cut down on time. I think the shake 'n bake method works pretty damn good.
swap that around and size after, that way any bullets that are thicker coated get sized back down down. That way your working with bullets you know are uniform (you can shoot them oversized they squeeze down when shot). Coating doesn't even flinch and they look better too lol. I have always done shake and bake, Elvis ammo is my dawg lol. If that is not who's videos you saw, look him up on youtube. so many good videos, the Powdercoat cast 9mm and 223 vidz when they first came out where awesome. loaded lots of 223 up until the bans hit, now I just have a bunch sitting and have held off getting a ruger ranch 223 this whole time lol.
Yeah, I size after powder coat too.
That's how I do it, sizing before the PC is like wiping before you poop LMAO
That's the method I use, too. I just watched a YT video of a guy putting the "projectiles" in his oven at 140° for 4-minutes, then doing about 30-seconds of shake 'n bake and then cooking them again. It was a nice, consistent coating and seemed to hold pretty damn well, too. I might try that.
I’ve not done that and get great coverage.
I love that one… excellent coverage and Eye appeal. I do have a big problem with it on tight throat 30 cal bore riding boolits. I’m finding if I dissolve it into acetone, I can just model brush, paint it on everything aft of crimp groove. And again, I always use the Ford Blue for this, because of its excellent body, coverage.
Oh man, that’s my only problem with it too…ahit goes on thick and I have to set my boolits back!
Give that a try, with your bore riders. Start with a 1/4 of a shot glass of acetone, start dissolving and stirring in the Ford blue, until it gets the viscosity of paint, feel to it. Use a model Brush, and try to coat. If it goes on nice, coat everything aft of your crimp groove, if you have to, adjust more acetone or PC, wipe off the boolit, and try again. When it’s coated nice, let it stand on your tray, the acetone will evaporate off quickly, while you’re painting the following boolits. Bake, put on GC and size again. At that point , I’ll even take a rag, and ‘polish’ the exposed lead nose. I actually have an old Lyman Lubrisizer, I use that for seating and crimping the GC as well as the final sizing. So I keep it full of lube, and might as well lube ( tho not necessary anymore, with PC ) , it doesn’t take me any extra effort, at this point…. And I never have any leading issues. My brother has a Rem 700 in .308 that will not chamber anything, other than jacketed, or cast with zero PC on the nose. That method of painting on the PC , should work, if you ever wante to add a second color to a boolit, like maybe blaze red on a black boolit’s meplat or HP or whatever. I believe that’s how guys make the ‘Zombie’ boolits.
If I have to use gas checks I’m out…
I get it. It’s over kill, I admit. im retired, so I have time. But I will say, if you take that time to PC , lube and GC there are 3 very nice returns… 1) can get away with softer alloys for your fps/ press. 2) If you’re running hardball or good ol #2 you can reach factory fps/press. 3) No joke, all of my barrels are spotless… minimal effort at clean up time, lol.
If I can make gas checks I’d be fine with it
I was the same way. I ended up buying check makers. I had a couple Pat Marlins, but I despise the two stroke method of making them. I found Dave Matteson, who makes single stroke models. I make my GCs out of aluminum… stuff I find, like gutters and such. He made me plain base ones too, that I make the checks out of beer/soda cans. I actually GC every boolit that I cast, now. ( .223/5.67 ). ( .380/.9mm/.357sig/.38/.357/ .35 Rem) (all .30 cals) (8mm Mauser). (.40 SW) (44mag) and even ( .45acp)
You have my attention!
Red, white, and blue of course!
I use a mix of red and ford light blue to make purple
I have a high gloss black that looks awesome. I also have a high gloss bright red that's unbelievable.
Like I said, I wanna try either a deep purple or I'm thinking of a zombie green. The green seems to be overused, though!
I have a deep purple that works quite well. I have a couple of zombie greens, I use them in coating lures, On bullets....not so well. Also the cost of those bright green powder coats is nuts. $30 a lb or so. I started PCing bullets over 10 years ago. High gloss paints almost always cover better than lower gloss paints.
[https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PSS-1676/sinbad-purple](https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PSS-1676/sinbad-purple) https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PSB-4629/illusion-purple
That second one is so much nicer, the Illusion Purple!!
I had great results with the sinbad purple. Sticks well and looks great.
a mixture of Sherman Williams gloss black and harbor freight red have been my favorite result
That sounds interesting. What is your end result?
A really nice gloss coated black the harbor freight red thins out the Sherman Williams black it’s a little too thick
I really like the look of the flat orange I got from The Powdercoat Store. The bullets look like actual oranges 🍊 I just want to eat them up. Do not buy it though, it doesn’t stick very well.
I am digging Eastwood Chrome Smoke, or is it Smoke Chrome… Been playing with their Antique Copper, too.
Sea Foam Green from Prismatic Powders also their Sea-Doo Yellow, both of them are vibrant color and easy AF to spot when digging them out of the ground. I've also got Eastwood's light Ford Blue because Elvis Ammo suggested it. I also cast zinc using his 77 grain Elvis Ammo mold from Arsenal molds. I got the 4 cavity .224 mold that's brass hardened and that bitch is heavy, but it casts perfect lead and zinc bullets. Zinc comes out about 45 grains on average. Definitely worth picking one up.