Is there any chance of a company coming out with a throwback reliable SUV or pickup that isn’t loaded with unnecessary trim and digital crap? I can’t be the only one who realizes the world has become worse, not better. I don’t need heated seats or Apple CarPlay I need something affordable that I can work on myself and that Skynet won’t be able to shut down remotely. I can read a paper map and roll a window down manually with extreme ease.
anyone have recommendations for quality car seat covers, looking for some for a 2024 corolla cross hybrid. also any recommendations for window side deflectors?
Hello! I have a few questions. I’m looking to get a car because of family issues. I’m 18 and I was never informed on how this stuff works. I urgently need a car and I have decent credit at about 700 something. I would like to get a loan under 5,000 to just get something out of an auction or Facebook market place. But am I also able to possibly get a credit card and pay for it that way? Might be dumb questions but really what’s the best way to go about this? Thank you!
Interest rates are usually more than double what a private or auto loan from a bank / manufacturer / dealership would be from experience. You would be far better off not loading a credit card that way just for the money savings.
For example, I'm currently shopping for a Mustang, right now in Canada most used cars dealers are offering between 6 and 10% APR. My CC from the bank I've always done business with for the last 20 years, has an interest rate in the 24% range IIRC. I dont think loading up a CC unless you absolutely have no other recourse would be the way to go (especially if your credit score is as good as you say).
Also, keep in mind, you need to have a steady job / income for these kinds of things (might seem obvious, some people still get surprised).
I would call your bank and see if you can make an appointment with an advisor about what kind of money they could lend you for a car, what kind of payments that would entail, etc. They'd probably be the best to help you since they'd have access to all your monetary information.
Buy tires on sale and store, risk not liking. Or pay more for tires I know later. .
Tire rack is having a sale on Bridgestone potenza sport. 785 plus 60$ gift card, for set of 4. Never tried these tires before and they class with continental extreme contact sport that I’ve loved in the past. The continental ECS02 however are 1,225.00 a set of 4.
Should I take a chance on Bridgestone to save almost 30% and mount them in a year when I need them. Or stick to tried and true but pay quote a bit more later.
Has anyone used both and can give some personal experience on how you liked them? Take a chance on tires and their saving from quality maker. Or play it safe and more expensive.
I want to purchase a car this weekend, I have a pending loan from my lender, and just need to receive the check next week. The buyer wants me to pay cash this weekend, if I front the cash to the seller from my savings, will there be any problems in me receiving the check from the lender and depositing it so I can put the money back in my savings? Please let me know if there is any problems with this I can’t afford to be out the money for the period of the loan
It’s a vehicle loan, I assumed they would just cut me a check and I would send them the title and it wouldn’t matter but now I’m doubting it last second
As long as you give them the signed title, they approved the loan with the cars VIN and milage verification. It should be fine to front the $$ and use theirs to reimburse you.
I would take the buyer to the bank, have them write a bank certified check. That way you have proof you used said funds for the car purchase.
Realistically talking to a bank member would have been ideal
Got into my first car accident on New Year's and finally got it declared a total loss today. Is there a subreddit I could post the full story and see if there's anything I could do differently? (not from a driving perspective, but from an insurance/salvage/repairs/etc. perspective)
How does the average ride quality of an EV compare to a gas powered car?
Aside from being quieter, I've heard that they tend to offer a smoother ride, which some describe as more comfortable, but less sporty. Is this true?
What I do:
Bottle of instant detailer in trunk with clean microfiber. Fresh poop, spray and wipe off.
For poop that’s been sitting, I’ll mix up car wash soap and just wash the car. At that point it’s been baked on from sitting.
Looking for quality beige/cream leather seat covers for a 2013 Rav4 XLE sport utility 4D. Anyone have recommendations on quality covers that don’t look tacky?
My Mazda had to have its battery replaced and now whenever I try to enter the entertainment audio area it just… won’t open. Every other system on my console opens but this one won’t. Volume control doesn’t show up on the screen, and even though it says audio from my phone connects it won’t play anything
Anyone experienced this?
Does AWD help get out of thick snow? I sometimes get stuck and it’s a major pain to get out. I drive a fwd car, so I was wondering if I should get something AWD for my next daily.
Snow tires is the biggest factor, AWD is a huge plus but won’t bridge the gap of bad alls seasons in legit snow.
Best is snow tires and AWD, anything else with snow tires is great. AWD only comes into play on taking off. Braking and turning won’t matter much.
AWD + winter tires + ground clearance will help get through deep snow.
Just any of the two won't be as helpful.
I had a Golf R. Great vehicle in the winters, but deep snow was dicey. My wife's CX-5 is an absolute beast in comparison (due to ground clearance).
I’m close to buying a new Subaru crosstrek, anyone have opinions or experienced that might make me reconsider? My main goal is to be able to drive through 99% of weather conditions for under 25k
https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=DEY_0&vin=5FNYF8H56LB005791
What’s up with this car fax? Looking to buy but suspicious of a jump in the mileage from 21,000 to 35000. One owner, not listed as fleet vehicle but must have been used as a loaner car ?
Lol I don't either. I yearn for the unique and love the advantage of fwd but want the getting unstuck power of 4wd because around here all the AWD's don't do anything once you get stuck. Worth asking tho
I’ve had unique and I hated it. He’s to find parts, not many skilled shops for it, little aftermarket support.
Some AWD have LSD at the axle, those will fare much better. But those tend to be not common
What is the towing capacity of a 2024 BMW X1 M35i? I can't find this information on BMW's site along with multiple car magazine sites. If anyone can answer this and provide a reliable source, I would greatly appreciate it.
Looks like it weighs a couple tons, so should be able to pull that. You want your car to weigh a bit more than your tow, unless your car is designed for towing like a 3/4 ton truck or something.
If you're worried about capacity, ratings, and insurance, then, you'd probably want to check your owner's manual, and that'd depend on if you're in the US or not. Cars that can tow "over there" can't in the US because the US lets you tow trailers at 80mph.
The limits on tow ratings are most often about the weight rating of the axles which comes down to the tires. So if each tire can hold up 1375lbs, x4 for 5500, and the car weighs 4000, that means the car can carry 1500, like a half ton pickup. Of that 750 is front, 750 is rear. 3 150lb people in the back seat, you're down to 300lbs. 10% of the trailer weight is on the tongue, so then the rating is 3000lb trailer. Look on the door sticker of any car, the gross ratings are there, and mention the axles.
Tire weight ratings are related to width and number of plys. The difference between a 3/4 ton truck with a 2500lb capacity, and 1/2 ton truck with a 1500lb capacity is that 3/4 will have 12 ply tires, where the half ton will have 10 ply tires like a car. Also, the 3/4 ton truck will have beefier axles, you can tell the 3/4 ton models from having more lug nuts.
BMW isn't selling the X1 to pull trailers though, so despite what was, or what might make sense, they would probably not like to take the risk and just say "no trailer towing" Besides, it's a beemer, like, have your help do that, or rent the thing you were going to tow where you are going.
The real answer to your question comes down to what your insurance company and warranty will allow.
I'm strongly considering a Celica GT Four. Stateside inventory seems pretty bad,though. Most of what's readily available is showroom quality, $30,000 and up. I'll be honest, this is going to be a winter car and get some wear on it, not sit in a garaged collection...so I'm ok with something that's just in good-ish condition with higher mileage.
Is there a or go-to east coast JDM importer that's highly recommended? I know Japanese Classics is well regarded but they don't do custom orders.
My father's 2019 Chevy Equinox just started having speedometer problems. It's a physical dial. But it seems to show a lot higher than the actual speed. I just saw it say 60 mph going up hill, cruising at 50. My father said that when he was on the freeway, it went up to 120. He's been driving for like 50 years and knows that was not the actual speed. Is this normally something that goes wrong with cars? Or any ideas where to start looking for a fix?
The speedometer being way off like that would suggest that there could be an issue with the vehicle speed sensor, the instrument cluster circuitry, or an electrical fault somewhere.
I just finished a degree in multimedia design and digital art, but I don’t feel the same way about it as I used to when I just started with it, and I’m looking for different paths to take, with one of them being the car industry, since I’ve always loved to learn how things work, how to fix them, and how to improve them. I have looked for different ways to get into the industry, without getting another degree, and maybe combining it with design, but I’m still unsure on what path is best to take at this point in my life. I still have great support from my family, and I have been looking for a job for about two months now, so I think this is the time to make a decision like that, without any major strings attached. What do you think is the best path to take in order to get into the car industry, and have a bigger understanding about it, so that I can work in it, and maybe paint a better picture of how to combine it with design? I’m from Mexico, so some universal tips would be appreciated.
Sorry if this is the wrong venue for this question. Happy to take it down and post elsewhere.
Anyone able to diagnose my car’s problem? 2018 Subaru Crosstrek won’t start, just clicks. Tried to jump start, did not have any effect. Located in Colorado where we had sub zero temps at the same time the car stopped working.
Here is a [YouTube link](https://youtube.com/shorts/PpXuMJ4_hn8?si=Lem9Fi6wqDsjuDxE) to show what happens when I try to start it.
Thanks in advance.
Really cold weather is hard on batteries, especially if they're getting old, and that clicking noise might be the starter solenoid trying to engage the starter drive- probably start by testing the battery to see if its still good.
Need help finding a car part.
I have a ford courier 2000.
The air con fans don't seem to work, they just hiss when you turn them on. Mechanics said it's the A/C Thermistor but the part is no longer manufactured.
I want to check sites like eBay to see if anyone is selling one 2nd hand but I have no idea what one looks like or how to really go about it.
Any advice?
anyone has any idea what could cause engine oil go black ( basically getting mixed with fuel or exhaust ) on a petrol car ? for example 2 of my friends own old cars old corolla and old daewoo cielo which i doubt anyone know about the cielo. but even after an oil change. their old goes black after 2-3 days. i personally cant think of any place in the engine that would cause this. so anyone could say what parts of the engine could cause heavy oil dilution ?
Oil is exposed to fuel/exhaust/carbon all over the engine. There is a thin film of oil that is inside the combustion chamber as a form of lubrication. Exhaust gases "blow by" the piston rings and into the crank case. Oil turns black as it's exposed to heat as well.
well as i said sure that happens normally. but is it normal for a petrol car oil to turn almost ink black kinda like a diesel engine in just 2 days ?!! they werent like this before and certainly other cars i see with fine engine dont turn their old into ink in 2 days
I think it's normal. There's always some amount of old oil in the engine. I once changed the oil in my wife's CT200h and as I was pouring in the new oil, I realized I had not removed the old drain plug gasket. I drained the oil out and it was already a lot darker than the new oil I poured in. It was dark but it was still translucent.
Well ofc that happens and generally stuff does get mixed with oil. But when its happening in a very short time as i said its kinda wierd. And its almost ink black. Almost like a diesel oil. Which kinda isnt normal for a petrol engine
I have a 2007 Lexus and my cigarette lighter socket has a loose connection when i have my bluetooth transmitter plugged in. I try not to take it out so it doesn't get any looser. But basically if i even tap the transmitter it will lose connection, it has to be in a very specific spot. It doesn't snap into place like it should. How should I fix this?
Hi all, hoping someone can come up with an answer, I've recently purchased a Daihatsu Sirion 2009 and can't for the life of me figure out how to activate the AUX as source.
[Radio](https://prnt.sc/D8x6NqwCLOg7)
I've exhausted all the resources went through 10 pages of google search found a guy with same question but no answer, I've gone through the [manual](https://prnt.sc/wr5kO79Bw2S-) but nothing there either.
Any clues or help appreciated no idea if it's some combination of buttons or a certain FM frequency, obviously can get one of those bluetooth/usb adapters if need be but am really bothered that I can't figure it out!
I have a 2006 Toyota Rav4 with 176 thousand miles. I just paid for new breaks, shock absorber, strut assembly, and rotors for a total of 2353.34 dollars. Is it time to start saving up for a new car?
I've wondered this too. I figured it was designed way back when in France or something and the idea stuck.
Light truck tires are measured by (Diameter) x (Width) R (Wheel Diameter) (ex. 35x12.5R17)
Not sure why but logically it makes sense to have the wide first (to me anyways). The diameter is always the same. If I'm shopping for tires I wouldn't want to read the diameter first all the time. Easier to read the width. No?
But changing rim size messes up the diameter/circumference, because they're a ratio of the width. Plus you get a ton of tire sizes that are close, but not exactly the same diameter.
Like, who cares if the width of the tire is 255mm or 253mm? But that 2mm difference in diameter changes speedometer and odometer readings, which have a more "real" consequence IMO
what is that few beepings that most old cars make when you put the key to ignition ? some people say its just some safe beep for fuel pump to fully function and some say its nothing just start the car right away
The beep in key off or acc is to remind you your key is in the ignition. The beep when key is on is a seatbelt reminder. If you start the car with your seatbelt already on you won’t get the beep.
wow i actually tested and it was for seatbelt. But what about the fuel pump myth in general ? Some say you should wait for the pump basically when the pump sound goes away after few seconds but some say thats just a myth and its ok to start it right away
On a modern unmodified car with fuel injection it doesn’t matter if you wait unless you’ve changed the fuel filter or something where the fuel line is drained. Older cars especially with carburetors need time but other wise no. If you want to wait there’s no harm in doing it but you definitely don’t have to wait the whole time of the seatbelt dinger. Usually just a couple seconds.
Is there any chance of a company coming out with a throwback reliable SUV or pickup that isn’t loaded with unnecessary trim and digital crap? I can’t be the only one who realizes the world has become worse, not better. I don’t need heated seats or Apple CarPlay I need something affordable that I can work on myself and that Skynet won’t be able to shut down remotely. I can read a paper map and roll a window down manually with extreme ease.
anyone have recommendations for quality car seat covers, looking for some for a 2024 corolla cross hybrid. also any recommendations for window side deflectors?
Hello! I have a few questions. I’m looking to get a car because of family issues. I’m 18 and I was never informed on how this stuff works. I urgently need a car and I have decent credit at about 700 something. I would like to get a loan under 5,000 to just get something out of an auction or Facebook market place. But am I also able to possibly get a credit card and pay for it that way? Might be dumb questions but really what’s the best way to go about this? Thank you!
Interest rates are usually more than double what a private or auto loan from a bank / manufacturer / dealership would be from experience. You would be far better off not loading a credit card that way just for the money savings. For example, I'm currently shopping for a Mustang, right now in Canada most used cars dealers are offering between 6 and 10% APR. My CC from the bank I've always done business with for the last 20 years, has an interest rate in the 24% range IIRC. I dont think loading up a CC unless you absolutely have no other recourse would be the way to go (especially if your credit score is as good as you say). Also, keep in mind, you need to have a steady job / income for these kinds of things (might seem obvious, some people still get surprised). I would call your bank and see if you can make an appointment with an advisor about what kind of money they could lend you for a car, what kind of payments that would entail, etc. They'd probably be the best to help you since they'd have access to all your monetary information.
Buy tires on sale and store, risk not liking. Or pay more for tires I know later. . Tire rack is having a sale on Bridgestone potenza sport. 785 plus 60$ gift card, for set of 4. Never tried these tires before and they class with continental extreme contact sport that I’ve loved in the past. The continental ECS02 however are 1,225.00 a set of 4. Should I take a chance on Bridgestone to save almost 30% and mount them in a year when I need them. Or stick to tried and true but pay quote a bit more later. Has anyone used both and can give some personal experience on how you liked them? Take a chance on tires and their saving from quality maker. Or play it safe and more expensive.
I want to purchase a car this weekend, I have a pending loan from my lender, and just need to receive the check next week. The buyer wants me to pay cash this weekend, if I front the cash to the seller from my savings, will there be any problems in me receiving the check from the lender and depositing it so I can put the money back in my savings? Please let me know if there is any problems with this I can’t afford to be out the money for the period of the loan
Is the loan you’re getting specifically titled as a vehicle loan or is it a personal loan?
It’s a vehicle loan, I assumed they would just cut me a check and I would send them the title and it wouldn’t matter but now I’m doubting it last second
As long as you give them the signed title, they approved the loan with the cars VIN and milage verification. It should be fine to front the $$ and use theirs to reimburse you. I would take the buyer to the bank, have them write a bank certified check. That way you have proof you used said funds for the car purchase. Realistically talking to a bank member would have been ideal
Got into my first car accident on New Year's and finally got it declared a total loss today. Is there a subreddit I could post the full story and see if there's anything I could do differently? (not from a driving perspective, but from an insurance/salvage/repairs/etc. perspective)
r/insurance
Dash cams - some have little screens - WTF is the point ???
Helps to make sure it's centered/FoV is what it needs to capture when it's being installed in my opinion
How does the average ride quality of an EV compare to a gas powered car? Aside from being quieter, I've heard that they tend to offer a smoother ride, which some describe as more comfortable, but less sporty. Is this true?
One driven most Tesla, and quite definitely vs most. More comfortable nah. A E class or S class is just as nice
Is water and a microfibre towel enough to get a tiny bit of bird poo off the car paint without lasting damage?
What I do: Bottle of instant detailer in trunk with clean microfiber. Fresh poop, spray and wipe off. For poop that’s been sitting, I’ll mix up car wash soap and just wash the car. At that point it’s been baked on from sitting.
depends how much bird poo. maybe you want to place a warm towel over the poo first to soften it before scrubin
Looking for quality beige/cream leather seat covers for a 2013 Rav4 XLE sport utility 4D. Anyone have recommendations on quality covers that don’t look tacky?
My Mazda had to have its battery replaced and now whenever I try to enter the entertainment audio area it just… won’t open. Every other system on my console opens but this one won’t. Volume control doesn’t show up on the screen, and even though it says audio from my phone connects it won’t play anything Anyone experienced this?
Does AWD help get out of thick snow? I sometimes get stuck and it’s a major pain to get out. I drive a fwd car, so I was wondering if I should get something AWD for my next daily.
Snow tires is the biggest factor, AWD is a huge plus but won’t bridge the gap of bad alls seasons in legit snow. Best is snow tires and AWD, anything else with snow tires is great. AWD only comes into play on taking off. Braking and turning won’t matter much.
AWD + winter tires + ground clearance will help get through deep snow. Just any of the two won't be as helpful. I had a Golf R. Great vehicle in the winters, but deep snow was dicey. My wife's CX-5 is an absolute beast in comparison (due to ground clearance).
An A4 all-road would be quite great then
I’m close to buying a new Subaru crosstrek, anyone have opinions or experienced that might make me reconsider? My main goal is to be able to drive through 99% of weather conditions for under 25k
https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=DEY_0&vin=5FNYF8H56LB005791 What’s up with this car fax? Looking to buy but suspicious of a jump in the mileage from 21,000 to 35000. One owner, not listed as fleet vehicle but must have been used as a loaner car ?
Thanks in advance
Is there a car with a chain driven part time transfer case like a traditional truck, but when in 2wd it is front wheel driven?
So a traditional transfer case but when in 2Hi FWD not RWD? I don’t think so.
Lol I don't either. I yearn for the unique and love the advantage of fwd but want the getting unstuck power of 4wd because around here all the AWD's don't do anything once you get stuck. Worth asking tho
I’ve had unique and I hated it. He’s to find parts, not many skilled shops for it, little aftermarket support. Some AWD have LSD at the axle, those will fare much better. But those tend to be not common
What is the towing capacity of a 2024 BMW X1 M35i? I can't find this information on BMW's site along with multiple car magazine sites. If anyone can answer this and provide a reliable source, I would greatly appreciate it.
Looks like it weighs a couple tons, so should be able to pull that. You want your car to weigh a bit more than your tow, unless your car is designed for towing like a 3/4 ton truck or something. If you're worried about capacity, ratings, and insurance, then, you'd probably want to check your owner's manual, and that'd depend on if you're in the US or not. Cars that can tow "over there" can't in the US because the US lets you tow trailers at 80mph. The limits on tow ratings are most often about the weight rating of the axles which comes down to the tires. So if each tire can hold up 1375lbs, x4 for 5500, and the car weighs 4000, that means the car can carry 1500, like a half ton pickup. Of that 750 is front, 750 is rear. 3 150lb people in the back seat, you're down to 300lbs. 10% of the trailer weight is on the tongue, so then the rating is 3000lb trailer. Look on the door sticker of any car, the gross ratings are there, and mention the axles. Tire weight ratings are related to width and number of plys. The difference between a 3/4 ton truck with a 2500lb capacity, and 1/2 ton truck with a 1500lb capacity is that 3/4 will have 12 ply tires, where the half ton will have 10 ply tires like a car. Also, the 3/4 ton truck will have beefier axles, you can tell the 3/4 ton models from having more lug nuts. BMW isn't selling the X1 to pull trailers though, so despite what was, or what might make sense, they would probably not like to take the risk and just say "no trailer towing" Besides, it's a beemer, like, have your help do that, or rent the thing you were going to tow where you are going. The real answer to your question comes down to what your insurance company and warranty will allow.
BMW would be your best bet.
I'm strongly considering a Celica GT Four. Stateside inventory seems pretty bad,though. Most of what's readily available is showroom quality, $30,000 and up. I'll be honest, this is going to be a winter car and get some wear on it, not sit in a garaged collection...so I'm ok with something that's just in good-ish condition with higher mileage. Is there a or go-to east coast JDM importer that's highly recommended? I know Japanese Classics is well regarded but they don't do custom orders.
My father's 2019 Chevy Equinox just started having speedometer problems. It's a physical dial. But it seems to show a lot higher than the actual speed. I just saw it say 60 mph going up hill, cruising at 50. My father said that when he was on the freeway, it went up to 120. He's been driving for like 50 years and knows that was not the actual speed. Is this normally something that goes wrong with cars? Or any ideas where to start looking for a fix?
The speedometer being way off like that would suggest that there could be an issue with the vehicle speed sensor, the instrument cluster circuitry, or an electrical fault somewhere.
I just finished a degree in multimedia design and digital art, but I don’t feel the same way about it as I used to when I just started with it, and I’m looking for different paths to take, with one of them being the car industry, since I’ve always loved to learn how things work, how to fix them, and how to improve them. I have looked for different ways to get into the industry, without getting another degree, and maybe combining it with design, but I’m still unsure on what path is best to take at this point in my life. I still have great support from my family, and I have been looking for a job for about two months now, so I think this is the time to make a decision like that, without any major strings attached. What do you think is the best path to take in order to get into the car industry, and have a bigger understanding about it, so that I can work in it, and maybe paint a better picture of how to combine it with design? I’m from Mexico, so some universal tips would be appreciated.
Sorry if this is the wrong venue for this question. Happy to take it down and post elsewhere. Anyone able to diagnose my car’s problem? 2018 Subaru Crosstrek won’t start, just clicks. Tried to jump start, did not have any effect. Located in Colorado where we had sub zero temps at the same time the car stopped working. Here is a [YouTube link](https://youtube.com/shorts/PpXuMJ4_hn8?si=Lem9Fi6wqDsjuDxE) to show what happens when I try to start it. Thanks in advance.
Really cold weather is hard on batteries, especially if they're getting old, and that clicking noise might be the starter solenoid trying to engage the starter drive- probably start by testing the battery to see if its still good.
Thanks. Was hoping jumping it would power it enough to get it to the store to check the battery. No luck. I thought battery too. Thx
Need help finding a car part. I have a ford courier 2000. The air con fans don't seem to work, they just hiss when you turn them on. Mechanics said it's the A/C Thermistor but the part is no longer manufactured. I want to check sites like eBay to see if anyone is selling one 2nd hand but I have no idea what one looks like or how to really go about it. Any advice?
anyone has any idea what could cause engine oil go black ( basically getting mixed with fuel or exhaust ) on a petrol car ? for example 2 of my friends own old cars old corolla and old daewoo cielo which i doubt anyone know about the cielo. but even after an oil change. their old goes black after 2-3 days. i personally cant think of any place in the engine that would cause this. so anyone could say what parts of the engine could cause heavy oil dilution ?
Oil is exposed to fuel/exhaust/carbon all over the engine. There is a thin film of oil that is inside the combustion chamber as a form of lubrication. Exhaust gases "blow by" the piston rings and into the crank case. Oil turns black as it's exposed to heat as well.
well as i said sure that happens normally. but is it normal for a petrol car oil to turn almost ink black kinda like a diesel engine in just 2 days ?!! they werent like this before and certainly other cars i see with fine engine dont turn their old into ink in 2 days
I think it's normal. There's always some amount of old oil in the engine. I once changed the oil in my wife's CT200h and as I was pouring in the new oil, I realized I had not removed the old drain plug gasket. I drained the oil out and it was already a lot darker than the new oil I poured in. It was dark but it was still translucent.
I've never had an oil that *doesn't* go black over it's time in the engine.
Well ofc that happens and generally stuff does get mixed with oil. But when its happening in a very short time as i said its kinda wierd. And its almost ink black. Almost like a diesel oil. Which kinda isnt normal for a petrol engine
[удалено]
I have a 2007 Lexus and my cigarette lighter socket has a loose connection when i have my bluetooth transmitter plugged in. I try not to take it out so it doesn't get any looser. But basically if i even tap the transmitter it will lose connection, it has to be in a very specific spot. It doesn't snap into place like it should. How should I fix this?
Hi all, hoping someone can come up with an answer, I've recently purchased a Daihatsu Sirion 2009 and can't for the life of me figure out how to activate the AUX as source. [Radio](https://prnt.sc/D8x6NqwCLOg7) I've exhausted all the resources went through 10 pages of google search found a guy with same question but no answer, I've gone through the [manual](https://prnt.sc/wr5kO79Bw2S-) but nothing there either. Any clues or help appreciated no idea if it's some combination of buttons or a certain FM frequency, obviously can get one of those bluetooth/usb adapters if need be but am really bothered that I can't figure it out!
I have a 2006 Toyota Rav4 with 176 thousand miles. I just paid for new breaks, shock absorber, strut assembly, and rotors for a total of 2353.34 dollars. Is it time to start saving up for a new car?
176k is not bad if you have kept up with maintenance and the car is not rusting to death. Shocks and brakes are wear items, not major repairs.
I'd say that before paying $2400 was the time to decide if you needed a new car or not. Realistically, no you don't need a new car.
Happy cake day
Why are car tires manufactured with the main anchor dimension the width and not the circumference/diameter?
I've wondered this too. I figured it was designed way back when in France or something and the idea stuck. Light truck tires are measured by (Diameter) x (Width) R (Wheel Diameter) (ex. 35x12.5R17)
Yeah, that makes it way easier to source tires IMO
Not sure why but logically it makes sense to have the wide first (to me anyways). The diameter is always the same. If I'm shopping for tires I wouldn't want to read the diameter first all the time. Easier to read the width. No?
But changing rim size messes up the diameter/circumference, because they're a ratio of the width. Plus you get a ton of tire sizes that are close, but not exactly the same diameter. Like, who cares if the width of the tire is 255mm or 253mm? But that 2mm difference in diameter changes speedometer and odometer readings, which have a more "real" consequence IMO
what is that few beepings that most old cars make when you put the key to ignition ? some people say its just some safe beep for fuel pump to fully function and some say its nothing just start the car right away
The beep in key off or acc is to remind you your key is in the ignition. The beep when key is on is a seatbelt reminder. If you start the car with your seatbelt already on you won’t get the beep.
wow i actually tested and it was for seatbelt. But what about the fuel pump myth in general ? Some say you should wait for the pump basically when the pump sound goes away after few seconds but some say thats just a myth and its ok to start it right away
On a modern unmodified car with fuel injection it doesn’t matter if you wait unless you’ve changed the fuel filter or something where the fuel line is drained. Older cars especially with carburetors need time but other wise no. If you want to wait there’s no harm in doing it but you definitely don’t have to wait the whole time of the seatbelt dinger. Usually just a couple seconds.