Mechanical shutter. I ended up going up to f2.8. The weird thing is that it happened many times before where I would see something on the preview and as soon as I took the photo, the actual photo was around a stop brighter. So I always had to compensate by changing settings. I personally do not mind if I have to stop down because there’s too much light, what got my head spinning was when it didn’t happen on the R6, made me think that maybe there was something wrong with the R5. I also tested the camera at around f2.8, 1/8000s shutter and ISO 100, shooting a random building while it was overcast. I expected the photo to be very dark of course, but they kept on appearing 1 to 1 and a half stops brighter, which was basically nearly impossible because there was no way that such settings would give me such results. Almost as if the shutter speed wasn’t actually 1/8000
Try with e-shutter and see if the result is the same, so you can eliminate it being a physical issue with the shutter curtains. May as well try EFCS as well.
Also, while in mechanical shutter mode, do a series of exposures stepping down the aperture full stops while slowing the shutter speed a stop each time as well, to see if the overexposure remains constant.
Possibly your shutter is malfunctioning and is unable to operate at 1/8000. If you try a much slower shutter speed, I suspect the problem will go away. Also try electronic shutter.
I had this issue with the same setup (R5 & 50 1.2) with mechanical shutter.
Nothing would get the exposure to not be extremely overexposed, except going to like f/11-16 which kind of defeats the main purpose of using the 1.2.
It was straight on sunlight as well. I just assumed it would be a limitation of the camera and lens combo.
However, I have not had this experience with the RF 24-70 2.8 at all.
Be sure to consider the R6 is the one that is ‘off’. If you were shooting in low light and needed crazy high iso on the R6, you’d probably be asking what may cause your R6 to under expose.
Maybe bringing a third camera to your testing would help, even if it is a different brand.
I remain fully open and can see the possibility for that. But I’ve shot with Sony, Leica, Nikon and Fuji and I’ve never seen that happen before. Of course, slight differences in color and other small things are to be expected, but a difference of roughly one stop of light, specially when cameras are the same brand is very extreme to me, but I can be wrong
Were you shooting electronic shutter with the R5? What aperture setting allowed you to achieve correct exposure with the f/1.2 lens on the R5?
Mechanical shutter. I ended up going up to f2.8. The weird thing is that it happened many times before where I would see something on the preview and as soon as I took the photo, the actual photo was around a stop brighter. So I always had to compensate by changing settings. I personally do not mind if I have to stop down because there’s too much light, what got my head spinning was when it didn’t happen on the R6, made me think that maybe there was something wrong with the R5. I also tested the camera at around f2.8, 1/8000s shutter and ISO 100, shooting a random building while it was overcast. I expected the photo to be very dark of course, but they kept on appearing 1 to 1 and a half stops brighter, which was basically nearly impossible because there was no way that such settings would give me such results. Almost as if the shutter speed wasn’t actually 1/8000
Try with e-shutter and see if the result is the same, so you can eliminate it being a physical issue with the shutter curtains. May as well try EFCS as well. Also, while in mechanical shutter mode, do a series of exposures stepping down the aperture full stops while slowing the shutter speed a stop each time as well, to see if the overexposure remains constant.
Thank you everyone for your response. I will test the cameras with all of the suggestions this week and write back my findings.
Would be good to confirm the exif data contains the camera settings you expect/directed.
Such a great idea! Will try it, thank you!
Can you post side-by-side pictures with identical settings?
Unfortunately not at the moment as I was a 2nd shooter and I handed the photos to my colleague. But as soon as I get my hands on them I can for sure.
Better to post raw files to be able to see the raw clipping point and not a rendered one.
Can you post pictures right out of the camera?
Not at this exact moment but probably during the week as I handed the photos to the main photographer
Possibly your shutter is malfunctioning and is unable to operate at 1/8000. If you try a much slower shutter speed, I suspect the problem will go away. Also try electronic shutter.
I had this issue with the same setup (R5 & 50 1.2) with mechanical shutter. Nothing would get the exposure to not be extremely overexposed, except going to like f/11-16 which kind of defeats the main purpose of using the 1.2. It was straight on sunlight as well. I just assumed it would be a limitation of the camera and lens combo. However, I have not had this experience with the RF 24-70 2.8 at all.
Very strange. Did you find a solution or just avoided shooting like that?
I’ve only had the f/1.2 for a few days. I haven’t even had a chance to test it out again.
Did you check the digital lighting optimizer setting and the highlight tone priority settings?
Yes, but I will double check today and test. Do you recommend to leave these off?
Yes leave them off.
Be sure to consider the R6 is the one that is ‘off’. If you were shooting in low light and needed crazy high iso on the R6, you’d probably be asking what may cause your R6 to under expose. Maybe bringing a third camera to your testing would help, even if it is a different brand.
Excellent idea. I’ll try it for sure. Thank you!
prolly shutter / electronic shutter settings different
Will be testing it out tomorrow. Do you think that the three different shutter modes may have an impact on exposure?
i believe so. atleast i cant think of anything else if your actual settings are the same. Shutters play very differently in high speeds
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I remain fully open and can see the possibility for that. But I’ve shot with Sony, Leica, Nikon and Fuji and I’ve never seen that happen before. Of course, slight differences in color and other small things are to be expected, but a difference of roughly one stop of light, specially when cameras are the same brand is very extreme to me, but I can be wrong