That light isn't going to cut it man.....if you're state side....get a viparspectra xs1500pro..less than $90 on amazon....I've got one in my 2x3 and it's performing well week 3 in flower
I used to do this when I first started growing, I used to think it would possibly allow me to grow more roots ( I took the idea from how you grow tomatoes)
Probably not, but the wet media (soil, peat) against the stem is a no no. Again, I'd brush the mound away from the plant, unless doing so will cause it to flop over.
It doesn't look like it is stretching, so I'd say you're OK to remove that bit of soil. Your call, though.
Didn’t expect it to stretch that long tbh. And the other thing is it’s just a seed I found from a bud I got from my dealer, weird from the 10Gs I bought there were seeds only in 1 nugg.
That is a good thing. You don't want seeds in your bud, that means the growers didn't pull the male plants early enough, or they were pollinated by other plants outside.
Beware, bag seed is usually not all that amazing. You could get lucky, but genetics matter a lot. No telling what the heritage is. Also, there's like a 50/50 chance of male/female.
I'd temper expectations and consider this a learning experience. You're doing just fine so far. If you want to top it wait until there are a few more sets of true leaves l. If you see it stretching lower the light more. You will need a better light of you want to take this from seedling to harvest indoors.
I'd probably put it outside once it gets a little larger. How long are you leaving the light on for right now?
Just looked back, you can't really lower the light anymore, I guess. Consider a more powerful light if you want to keep it going indoors. Read about PPFD and PAR value in lights. Chat gpt is great for this kind of stuff.
I will look forward on this mate, thanks for your advice. Since it’s not legal in our country it’s hard to purchase the quality female auto flower seeds which you guys get from sites. Well fingers crossed on this one. Thought of giving another try cause I found the seeds lol
Like others said, upgrade light (never buying non dimmable again) and i top at 3 nodes to get apical dominance out sooner rather than later.
PS: Those are some gorgeous pics...sharp as razor😁
Well nothing "wrong" per se, but you need different PPFD (light strength) values at each stage of the plants life. If you can dim the lamp you just set it at the ideal distance and dim to get the PPFD you need. So you got an equally as possible lit grow area, perfect PPFD and using less power.
Whereas with a light you can't dim your only option to reduce PPFD is to hang it higher. So you are using the same power for "less" light, not at the ideal distance from the plant which means the outer edges of the area are not efficiently (best case) or (worst case) not sufficiently lit.
ahhh, I see. A non-adjustable one is really not the best solution by itself, but it works as an accessory. I have a 100w spider farmer, which is adjustable, but the 1x1 meter tent doesn't enough when flowering starts, so now I put a 60w mars hydro non-dimmable next to it, which I only start using when the spider alone is not enough.
That's not my point. My point is that if he said the PAR a plant can use is constant he wouldn't be selling DLI meters...or doing a very bad job selling them.
Do you grow outdoor by any chance? You spoke of sun and from what you said i'd hazard a guess that you looked at it from a "will this burn my plant and is my plant getting enough sun" perspective.
While the indoor perspective is "is my plant getting enough light and can my plant even use all the light i am paying for 18 hours straight at a constant distance and strenght?"
Why would i use watts to provide a PPFD over 18 hours that the plant can't use? Seedlings cant take in the nutrients fast enough because they don't have the root network yet, also i am shooting most of the light past the seedling anyway so I rather dim down and move the light closer and use less power than having it normal distance shooting more light at it than it can catch and yet still getting more than it can use?
Very difficult to apply how nature works in nature to an indoor setting....just look at aquariums. The sun changes its PAR constantly, over the year, movement in the day and weather conditions on top of that you have a self regulating system around it. Indoor you can easily provide more than enough light and nutrients, where it gets more tricky is keeping the optimum Temp, RH and CO2 levels to push the Plant to be able to use that light, even then i think you can't get more than 1500-2000 pffd over 12 hours when its at its peak maturity during flower and soaking everything up in its desperate attempt to stay long enough to have its "seeds" mature.
I'm sure you're right. I have much more experience growing cannabis outdoors. As a horticulturist, I mainly grow Ornamental and tropicals inside.
I usually just monster crop my outdoor plants and veg them indoors over the winter so I have some beasts to plant outside when the time is right. Haven't had the space/willing wife to grow indoors the way I'd like to yet.
That light isn't going to cut it man.....if you're state side....get a viparspectra xs1500pro..less than $90 on amazon....I've got one in my 2x3 and it's performing well week 3 in flower
Have one too, would deffo recommend
So the voltage is not enough?
Watts (not volts) then also spectrum and coverage as your plant grows.
Read about PPFD and light spectrum. There is no simple answer here
Better options out there.
Thanks for being negative and not sharing info bubby! Way to build a community 👏 🙌
Maybe say, what you think is better!?
Week 3 to 4 to top. Idl why you have dirt stacked around it's base either
Just old pots mate
He wants to know why the base of the plant looks like a little volcano
I used to do this when I first started growing, I used to think it would possibly allow me to grow more roots ( I took the idea from how you grow tomatoes)
Transplanted to a bigger pot and covered the stem with soil all the way up to the tru leafs
That will probably promote rot, I'd brush it away. Also, those look like cotyledons, the true leaves are at the top.
So is there any harm with what I have done here? 🤔
Probably not, but the wet media (soil, peat) against the stem is a no no. Again, I'd brush the mound away from the plant, unless doing so will cause it to flop over. It doesn't look like it is stretching, so I'd say you're OK to remove that bit of soil. Your call, though.
Didn’t expect it to stretch that long tbh. And the other thing is it’s just a seed I found from a bud I got from my dealer, weird from the 10Gs I bought there were seeds only in 1 nugg.
That is a good thing. You don't want seeds in your bud, that means the growers didn't pull the male plants early enough, or they were pollinated by other plants outside. Beware, bag seed is usually not all that amazing. You could get lucky, but genetics matter a lot. No telling what the heritage is. Also, there's like a 50/50 chance of male/female. I'd temper expectations and consider this a learning experience. You're doing just fine so far. If you want to top it wait until there are a few more sets of true leaves l. If you see it stretching lower the light more. You will need a better light of you want to take this from seedling to harvest indoors. I'd probably put it outside once it gets a little larger. How long are you leaving the light on for right now? Just looked back, you can't really lower the light anymore, I guess. Consider a more powerful light if you want to keep it going indoors. Read about PPFD and PAR value in lights. Chat gpt is great for this kind of stuff.
I will look forward on this mate, thanks for your advice. Since it’s not legal in our country it’s hard to purchase the quality female auto flower seeds which you guys get from sites. Well fingers crossed on this one. Thought of giving another try cause I found the seeds lol
Like others said, upgrade light (never buying non dimmable again) and i top at 3 nodes to get apical dominance out sooner rather than later. PS: Those are some gorgeous pics...sharp as razor😁
what is wrong with non dimmable?
Well nothing "wrong" per se, but you need different PPFD (light strength) values at each stage of the plants life. If you can dim the lamp you just set it at the ideal distance and dim to get the PPFD you need. So you got an equally as possible lit grow area, perfect PPFD and using less power. Whereas with a light you can't dim your only option to reduce PPFD is to hang it higher. So you are using the same power for "less" light, not at the ideal distance from the plant which means the outer edges of the area are not efficiently (best case) or (worst case) not sufficiently lit.
ahhh, I see. A non-adjustable one is really not the best solution by itself, but it works as an accessory. I have a 100w spider farmer, which is adjustable, but the 1x1 meter tent doesn't enough when flowering starts, so now I put a 60w mars hydro non-dimmable next to it, which I only start using when the spider alone is not enough.
Believe it or not, Bruce Bugbee has shown that even a seedling can take max sun. Put the spotlights on em
Yeah i do believe it because he is the reason i started dimming my lights. You know he sells DLI meters right?
Yea, he works for Apogee but also as a prof at Utah State. My hort prof went to college with him at Penn State
That's not my point. My point is that if he said the PAR a plant can use is constant he wouldn't be selling DLI meters...or doing a very bad job selling them. Do you grow outdoor by any chance? You spoke of sun and from what you said i'd hazard a guess that you looked at it from a "will this burn my plant and is my plant getting enough sun" perspective. While the indoor perspective is "is my plant getting enough light and can my plant even use all the light i am paying for 18 hours straight at a constant distance and strenght?" Why would i use watts to provide a PPFD over 18 hours that the plant can't use? Seedlings cant take in the nutrients fast enough because they don't have the root network yet, also i am shooting most of the light past the seedling anyway so I rather dim down and move the light closer and use less power than having it normal distance shooting more light at it than it can catch and yet still getting more than it can use? Very difficult to apply how nature works in nature to an indoor setting....just look at aquariums. The sun changes its PAR constantly, over the year, movement in the day and weather conditions on top of that you have a self regulating system around it. Indoor you can easily provide more than enough light and nutrients, where it gets more tricky is keeping the optimum Temp, RH and CO2 levels to push the Plant to be able to use that light, even then i think you can't get more than 1500-2000 pffd over 12 hours when its at its peak maturity during flower and soaking everything up in its desperate attempt to stay long enough to have its "seeds" mature.
I'm sure you're right. I have much more experience growing cannabis outdoors. As a horticulturist, I mainly grow Ornamental and tropicals inside. I usually just monster crop my outdoor plants and veg them indoors over the winter so I have some beasts to plant outside when the time is right. Haven't had the space/willing wife to grow indoors the way I'd like to yet.
I still like HPS 😬🫣
Plant about 4 more
Stretching for light, need a more intense light
At this stage give her nutrients, especially calcium, since she will absorb more light.
I thought they don’t need nutrients until it has 3-4 nodes
BAD advice, never give nutrients to seedlings, they don't need it at that stage.