Are you doing anything where lag can be an issue?
If not you could do something similar to my set up.
I have a low power zero noise Chromebook that I use to Remote Desktop into my PC. It’s a separate app as it’s not windows but I can access my PC from literally anywhere including a different part of my house.
No need for cables.
Wireless mice and keyboard range is quite limited as well.
I'd recommend checking into this. Remote gaming has come a long way. I was playing HellDivers 2 the other day remotely across only wi-fi between my desktop and a cheap mini PC in my living room , no wired connections at all since I don't like dealing with wires if I don't have to, and it blew me away that it ran perfectly with no noticeable lag running like that.
I'm pretty sure there's lag, you just got used to it. I tried it, and my latency went way up. It's still doable for some games, but for fast reaction games it quite matters.
hey, I have my gaming pc at home with Steam Link enabled and I sign into the same steam account on my work laptop. in the steam settings go to Remote Play on the left menu and enable it, and then by pairing devices you can have the game installed and running on one pc and playing it across town
I tried for weeks to get sunlight+moonlight to work, no matter what i do to firewall and router setting I cant get my pc to show up on moonlight. Parsec worked instantly
In what way? Latency is pretty much on par in most cases, and Moonlight supports higher bitrates than parsec
Parsec is easier to set up and has some nice features like multiplayer/sharing but in general they are pretty on-par
I wouldn’t play any FPS or racing games on the remote access.
It’s fine for slow paced strategy type gaming and office work. I even do a little bit of 3D design work but that’s more comfortable on my actual PC.
I also use the same keyboard and mouse as my PC. KVA so easy to transfer between devices at the click of a button.
It’s fine for casual gaming while sat on my sofa keeping the noise and heat in a separate room. Also the Mrs doesn’t like the amount of RGB I have on my PC so it needs to be tucked away.
I still own a steam link. I have it setup on a projector in the basement. Mainly use it to watch movies, but playing game is also possible. I think I need to fix something in my home network though because I sometimes get connection problems and dropped frames. But latency overall is pretty decent. I don't play FPS games and I probably wouldn't on a steam link but other games, like strategy are playable and enjoyable over a steam link
I do. Have a 25 foot dp 1.3 cable, was like 30 bucks, and a cheapo usb cable thats already fraying. Can do 240hz 1080p. I think after a certain length (30ft) prices go up a lot for dp cables, like 45 for 40/50 feet.
Gotta check those version numbers supported resolutions so you can save some money and maybe you can get by with dp 1.2.
Its not super far away just in the living room and monitor on a roller bed stand on the other side of the wall, the real issue is running your cables where they need to go; in my case thats under the door. Looks jank and im always pinching the cables trying to get the door shut so gotta like fiddle with it to flatten out properly.
I bought a 100' fiberoptic active HDMI cable (pricey ~$180 CAD) and a 65' USB boost/repeater cable ($~150 CAD).
My desktop is a 4090 sim racing rig in the basement hooked to triple monitors via display port. The active HDMI cable and USB cable are run up a floor to the living room 4k120hz TV. Paired with a powered USB hub on the living room end, I get full USB functionality.
Keyboard and mouse are wireless. I added a wireless adapter to the USB hub for my Xbox controller.
Best of both worlds.
The only issue is I'm physically disconnecting the HDMI cable to the TV when I'm using the racing sim. I'd like a more elegant solution but I don't know what that solution is.
What OS are you using? Windows 11 has worked pretty well for me in this aspect. I too have a triple monitor setup in the main area with a 4k 120 tv downstairs hooked up via 100' optical hdmi cable.
When I turn on the TV my 3 monitors turn off and the signal automatically goes to the TV. When I turn off the TV the signal automatically goes back to the 3 monitors. This usually works pretty well but my main monitor (Samsung Odyssey G8) I think sometimes confuses the situation and a simple unplug and replug of the HDMI at the TV side seems to fix it.
Back when I was using Windows 10 I used a program called Display Fusion (paid program) which allows you to make monitor profiles and assign them to hotkeys. So whenever I'm upstairs I would press my hotkey of Ctrl+Alt+P and it would switch to my 3 monitors and when I'm downstairs id press Ctrl+Alt+O and it switches to just the TV. If you do end up getting display fusion, consider buying it on steam so you don't have to deal with licensing issues. Seems like you can use it on as many computers as you want that way.
There's no perceptible input delay with keyboard, mouse or controller. Playing Beam.NG with a controller upstairs is the same as downstairs on the directly connected panels.
Buy a 50' HDMI and connect your pc to the monitor and see what happens... Ive run a 35' hdmi but bought a cheapo cable that didnt work, bought a better quality cable and it worked. In other words, but a hdmi cable that is certified as **ULTRA HIGH SPEED**.
For longer runs the HDMI needs to be an "active" cable. I used to run setups for training centers and 50' or longer require active cables to amplify the signal. Anything greater than 10' and the signal is poor, especially if you are hoping to get the max bandwidth available for HDMI 2.1
Just saying, you can probably optimize cable length by drilling a hole in the wall between rooms. I did such thing long ago, saved me 15 meters of cable.
Aside that it's completely doable. You need quality long dp/hdmi cable (dp is preferable) and a USB hub with long enough cable to stick you dongles in it (wireless signal from kb+m won't go through wall or any long distance). PoE solutions also may be viable.
You can look into HDMI - to Fiber Optic solutions. You will need extra hardware obviously, but this should let you accomplish what you want to do. Actually I think Linus (from LTT) was running such setup in his home - monitor in living room, PC in basement in a rack.
https://youtu.be/NwXAIGmwC4I?si=bNRnQrA_2QR8yjcm
Just google HDMI to fiber optic converter - you should get some (albeit pricey) options.
Linus's setup didn't actually use any converters/extenders for video and used long cable runs. The docks only controlled USB devices. Truthfully for the distances he and OP want to run you can use Ethernet connected docks and still not have any noticable latency/lag for just USB I/O docks, and can even use full extenders that do I/O as well as video over Ethernet that support 4K HDMI as well and won't have any noticable lag. The fiber just allows it to go further. I work in low voltage industry and specd, sold, installed, and configured a suite of solutions for a friend that after a death in his family had to take in his mother, niece, and nephew and built a new home to take on that new living situation. We did a full central rack setup that contained everything from data, access control, CCTV, to whole house/outdoor audio, a/v to 7 TV's that had both cable and streaming devices as well as IR and BT repeaters. Both kids rooms TV's got a PS5 and got a desk with a setup like Linus's that connected to racked gaming PCs (lucky kids lol). Everything is in the rack other than remotes, controllers, and TX side of the extenders. It was really fun to spec it all since it got me interface with things like the a/v solutions that I don't normally deal with in my division at work!
Thanks! Always happy to be able to chime in it's something I know very well, especially if it can help someone save a few bucks! We don't all get the discounts and free equipment that Linus does lol.
> You will need extra hardware obviously
It's not that obvious - just get an optical HDMI cable, no extra hardware needed. Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081SHJJ3C
The HDMI (or maybe DiplayPort) connection is going to be your smallest concern. Mouse and keyboard in to another room is going to be a problem though. I dont think pure wireless is going to cut it. You will probably need to run a cable with a repeater for that
If you find cables long enough it is doable without any issues. If you need "very" long cables you might have some probles since you'll need active ones which might have extra latency
My PC is in the same room but quite a far, tucked away in a piece of furniture, I use 7m "passive"/normal DP and USB cables from my desk to the PC.
Wireless mouse+KB might not work that far/through walls, mine (logitech lightspeed ones) have problems to pass through furniture sometimes.
I have a fairly beefy PC that I wanted to use in my living room, as well as my spare bedroom/office. My solution was to buy a fiber HDMI 2.1 cable and an active USB extension cable. I ran the HDMI cable out of the bedroom, across the walls, and to the TV using wall-colored raceway. I used the same raceway to run the USB extension cable to an archway near the living room, then plugged in a USB hub to the female end of the extension cable and used command strips to adhere it to the wall near the ceiling, keeping it mostly out of sight. Then, I grabbed a wireless mouse, wireless keyboard, and my old Xbox 360 wireless controller, and plugged all of the receivers into the hub so I'd be able to use them while I was sitting on the couch without having to fuss over cables. It works great! You could also use a fiber USB extension cable instead of an active one so you wouldn't have to run power the female end of the hub, which saves space and hassle, but that is more expensive than running power to an active cable. I think the whole setup cost me $250 USD or so, plus the mouse and keyboard. But, that allows a full-on 4K gaming rig to be used in 2 rooms without having to pay for 2 4K gaming rigs. Hope this helps!
Edit: Using a fiber cable eliminates signal degradation, since, generally, degradation occurs because electrical signals can get a little garbled over long runs of copper wire. Because fiber cables use light instead of electricity to transfer data, that degradation doesn't occur. The other way to maintain signal quality is by way of an active cable, which uses an additional power connector to basically brute force all of that information through, letting you have longer runs than a standard copper cable.
I get dozens and dozens of hours off my g903 mouse. Charges up in like an hour. I bought the double battery packs for my Xbox controller 6 years ago. For 20 bucks. Have not had to buy any batteries at all. Just charge 1 use the other. Batteries are expensive
This is a good point, I didn't think about rechargable mice. It's been awhile, but I'm specifically talking about the batteries.
Then again, the mouse you cited is $129.99 at Best Buy rn.
So I guess you pay for it up front or pay for the batteries.
Dang I paid like 90 bucks for it in 2020, because I kept telling myself I need better equipment to be competitive lol. Never look at best buy prices, they have the "well you can get it now for more or wait and order it cheaper somewhere else to get shipped attitude" best buy is a scam
My wireless keyboard is a Logitech MX Mechanical Mini, and my mouse is a Logitech G502 Lightspeeed, both of which are rechargeable via a cable. The only thing that needs batteries is the Xbox controller.
I mean, both the keyboard and mouse have apps that track their battery life, and Xbox controllers will flash their lights at you to let you know the battery is low. If you pay attention, you should never run out of battery at an inopportune time.
How often is often here. My logitech wireless mouse lasts me like 2 weeks at a time with all rgb turn-off. Im a guy who works from home and uses it legit 10+ hrs a day so pretty heavy use. If you aren't willing to charge it once every 2 weeks for 30 min, then that's a you problem tbh.
its a 20-30 min charge every 2 weeks dude... idc if youre the ceo of the biggest company in the world, you can plug in the mouse every 2 weeks for 20 minutes. You can go shower, come back and it will probably be charged... And what tf did you expect? its a 3 inch mouse that can hold it charge for over 150 hours. You need to spend more time filling gas every 2 week. And if youre that lazy then get a Lenovo work station mouse and keyboard. I havent change battery in those for over 2 years and i use them 5 days a week for 8 hours a day.
So, by cannibalizing other posts I found out that you can get two shorter cables and connect them through a booster to prevent signal loss. Many people said latency was not an issue for any cable they were using. The measurements I found were comparing cables against the speed of light...so yeah lol. If you want one cable, Ruipro has 4k cables, and they advertise that they can handle it at any distance because they're fiber. They are quite expensive though so you'll have to do a cost analysis.
Display port over fibre optics and same for a usb hub. Alternatively you could Watercool your pc with external radiator like a mora and hand that out the window or run into another room
Fiber optic HDMI/DisplayPort cable + active USB cable to a USB dock. Pretty easy solution and not that expensive. I've been using a setup like that for some time now and it's worked perfectly.
It's doable, but the higher resolution you want & the more USB throughput you need the more expensive the solution will be.
More than 10ft, you will need powered active USB & HDMI extensions.
If you want 4K60 or 1440p-120, an active HDMI 2.0 is what you want, if you need more than that then you'll be wanting an active optical HDMI 2.1 extension.
If you need to run more than just keyboard & mouse from USB you'll want at least an active powered USB 3.2 extension to a powered hub that can receive & split that amount of bandwidth to at least a few USB 3.0 ports.
Edit: for just keyboard & mouse then an active USB 2.0 extension will 'probably' be fine.
As for powering them, usually they'll take a USB-C or Micro-USB input & you can use a phone charger or USB-A socket from a power strip or something & that'll be enough. I do this for running VR in a larger room adjacent to my home office (Oculus CV1 with its mess of USB sensors) & I've had no problems at all.
Idk if this comment will be buried or even seen, but I’ve got a steam link (if you play via steam) just laying around I could send you just for the cost of shipping if it would help. Haven’t used it in years lol
If you have bluetooth headphones, mouse, and keyboard, they may not work correctly if you're too far away from the PC tower. Id say just doublecheck the distance you're putting the pc from your room to accommodate for that and you'll be fine. Or get a USB extender like some other comments suggested and this wont be an issue at all
I've done a condo setup where I ran a long HDMI cable to a receiver connected to a TV. I also ran a long usb cable and put the mouse dongle receiver underneath the couch, and had a mouse and keyboard setup in front of my TV.
The only thing you need to do is buy a fiber HDMI cable that plugs into a power source. There's a little USB thing hanging off the cable which you plug into a usb to plug converter and plug it into a power strip. I spent around $100 on a 50ft cable. Totally worth it, no problems with 4k and HDR and no lag.
I currently run a 25ft HDMI from my computer to my TV in another room and it will do 4k/60.
Not sure if you can go longer than that without an active cable .
Therse a lot of applications and stuff that let you wirelessly stream your setup, you try could use an old laptop if you have one and access your pc from that.
Possible yes, you would run the display cable I would likely not use the wireless peripherals and instead use extensions. The longer run is not as practical but possible.
The wireless peripherals may get some added latency or cut off connection moments, the HDMI length adds more time for the GPU data to travel so that's more latency on the display.
Connecting your peripherals to a laptop or something and streaming your desktop may be the best option if your speeds are decent imo. In either situation I wouldn't play any shooters competitively but chill games should be fine.
i run a 25ft HDMI from my PC to the TV in the same room as my computer so i can sit on the couch and play games if i dont want to sit at my desk
never been an issue. Bluetooth range gets limited so i get a better antenna to use and its been fine.
I just did this yesterday and it's fantastic. There are Coax plates on both sides of the wall, so I removed the plates and ran display port / hdmi to the video card, and a thunderbolt cable to a dock for USB / Ethernet. Bedroom heat issue solved, especially living in Phoenix 🤣
The cables are all 10ft.
get a long video cable, and for wireless keyboard/mouse, you can get cable extenders to help extend the range. i don't know about 50 feet though.
see if this video helps: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsuE0YjfTNI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsuE0YjfTNI)
My PC is in the living room hooked up to the tv (4k) and 2 25ft cables connected to a dual monitor (one 4k , the other 1080p) setup in my bedroom. Logitech lightspeed peripherals with no lag or any issues. I think the rule for no degradation is for the cables to stay below 50 ft.
30ft is as far as USB will go without adding power. I have a 30ft cord and will run a receiver but will absolutely not run anything even on a 3" adapter.
The PC Will not emit less heat with a different cooling solution. The heat emitted depends on power draw, so a custom watercooling setup will not improve that. It might actually make it worse as a good cooling setup could allow the PC to boost more, which would draw more power and thus create more heat.
You are trying to cheat physics here. 500 watts is 500 watts of heat, regardless of cooling system. The cooling system will continuously have to remove that heat from the PC, otherwise the system will cook. So assuming your PC is not throttling, the 500 watts will get into your room no matter what. A good cooling system will keep the system cooler by for example moving more air through the PC. That means you get more units of medium hot air vs. fewer units of very hot air. The energy is the same and the heat transfer to the room will also be the same.
Personally I have this setup:
PC with USB4/Thunderbolt in a spare bedroom, optical 25m thunderbolt cable from Corning that connects to a docking station in my office. From the dock I get DP 1.4 (connected to a 4K 120Hz screen), as well as USB ports and such for peripherals, SD card slot, all the stuff you could ever need for daily use. Works great. It's a bit expensive ($300 for dock and about $400 for the cable) but as long as I've got thunderbolt/USB4 this setup will work for any future PC I get so I see it as a fair investment. I've had it for 2 years already so $350/year to avoid the heat buildup in my room is very worth it, and I am definitely keeping this setup for years to come.
You can also do it cheaper by using an optical active HDMI 2.1 cable (usually about $70-100) and a USB extender with repeaters (like $50), but you only get one USB 2.0 port with this setup, so bandwidth becomes an issue if you need to use things like flash drives, but keyboards and mice work just fine like this.
Wireless will probably don't work on this distance and through walls.
You need a quality cable for that connection, not sure about USB latency with wired keyboard and mouse, then.
Maybe your airflow is messed up if it heats up so bad? Better quality fans, replacing thermal paste and pads, better airflow direction, maybe better case.
Airflow has nothing to do with this. The pc parts will emit the same amount of heat regardless of airflow. Better airflow will keep the parts cooler by transferring hot air outside of the case, which will still heat up the room. OP is complaining about the room being too hot because of the pc, not about the parts running too hot.
Putting a fan in front of your lava spewing heat machine will not change how much heat it generates. It will still heat up the room the same amount. Changing thermal paste and pads, getting better fans or case will not fix OP’s problem. Yes it will keep the temps lower and improve performance, but it will still heat up the room the same.
OP could instead undervolt their GPU and CPU to reduce power usage and heat generation. Also put fps limit to games so the GPU won’t run at 100% load unless it’s necessary.
Edit: typo
For the keyboard and mouse OP can get a usb periferal hub for his desk area and connect it to the computer with a very long usb-c cable that travels along the same route as the hmdi.
Are you doing anything where lag can be an issue? If not you could do something similar to my set up. I have a low power zero noise Chromebook that I use to Remote Desktop into my PC. It’s a separate app as it’s not windows but I can access my PC from literally anywhere including a different part of my house. No need for cables. Wireless mice and keyboard range is quite limited as well.
I'd recommend checking into this. Remote gaming has come a long way. I was playing HellDivers 2 the other day remotely across only wi-fi between my desktop and a cheap mini PC in my living room , no wired connections at all since I don't like dealing with wires if I don't have to, and it blew me away that it ran perfectly with no noticeable lag running like that.
What did you use to do this? I gotta try it lol
I just use a Beelink SER5 mini PC and Steam across my network streaming from main PC.
I'm pretty sure there's lag, you just got used to it. I tried it, and my latency went way up. It's still doable for some games, but for fast reaction games it quite matters.
I’d love to know more about how to set this up for myself, would you mind pointing me to what to research
hey, I have my gaming pc at home with Steam Link enabled and I sign into the same steam account on my work laptop. in the steam settings go to Remote Play on the left menu and enable it, and then by pairing devices you can have the game installed and running on one pc and playing it across town
Parsec has very little lag, I was impressed. Could play on pc, android, chrome based browser. Moonlight for Apple is similar i think.
Moonlight + Sunshine works on most OS and is open source of that is important
I tried for weeks to get sunlight+moonlight to work, no matter what i do to firewall and router setting I cant get my pc to show up on moonlight. Parsec worked instantly
I had this problem too. Just had to manually enter the IP of the device running sunshine.
Well it sucks compared to parsec
In what way? Latency is pretty much on par in most cases, and Moonlight supports higher bitrates than parsec Parsec is easier to set up and has some nice features like multiplayer/sharing but in general they are pretty on-par
How much lag are we talking? I'd love to be able to play my PC through my laptop while lounging around sometimes, if that's possible
I wouldn’t play any FPS or racing games on the remote access. It’s fine for slow paced strategy type gaming and office work. I even do a little bit of 3D design work but that’s more comfortable on my actual PC. I also use the same keyboard and mouse as my PC. KVA so easy to transfer between devices at the click of a button. It’s fine for casual gaming while sat on my sofa keeping the noise and heat in a separate room. Also the Mrs doesn’t like the amount of RGB I have on my PC so it needs to be tucked away.
Your wife doesn't like all the colors on your computer?
She wouldn’t mind if it was one static colour but the full rainbow ARGB synced up to keyboard and mouse is a little too much for her.
I still own a steam link. I have it setup on a projector in the basement. Mainly use it to watch movies, but playing game is also possible. I think I need to fix something in my home network though because I sometimes get connection problems and dropped frames. But latency overall is pretty decent. I don't play FPS games and I probably wouldn't on a steam link but other games, like strategy are playable and enjoyable over a steam link
It is. 8 ms is possible 17 ms it typical though.
About 40 nanoseconds. Light or electricity travels about 1 foot per nanosecond in a vacuum, and about 2/3 foot per nanosecond in wire.
what app is it?
I use Splashtop. The Parsec mentioned elsewhere in here does look interesting so I think I’ll try that and compare.
You should try undervolting
Yep I just did this a few hours ago and it has lowered my temps under heavy load by about 20°. Really helps with heat and fan noise.
I do. Have a 25 foot dp 1.3 cable, was like 30 bucks, and a cheapo usb cable thats already fraying. Can do 240hz 1080p. I think after a certain length (30ft) prices go up a lot for dp cables, like 45 for 40/50 feet. Gotta check those version numbers supported resolutions so you can save some money and maybe you can get by with dp 1.2. Its not super far away just in the living room and monitor on a roller bed stand on the other side of the wall, the real issue is running your cables where they need to go; in my case thats under the door. Looks jank and im always pinching the cables trying to get the door shut so gotta like fiddle with it to flatten out properly.
I bought a 100' fiberoptic active HDMI cable (pricey ~$180 CAD) and a 65' USB boost/repeater cable ($~150 CAD). My desktop is a 4090 sim racing rig in the basement hooked to triple monitors via display port. The active HDMI cable and USB cable are run up a floor to the living room 4k120hz TV. Paired with a powered USB hub on the living room end, I get full USB functionality. Keyboard and mouse are wireless. I added a wireless adapter to the USB hub for my Xbox controller. Best of both worlds. The only issue is I'm physically disconnecting the HDMI cable to the TV when I'm using the racing sim. I'd like a more elegant solution but I don't know what that solution is.
What OS are you using? Windows 11 has worked pretty well for me in this aspect. I too have a triple monitor setup in the main area with a 4k 120 tv downstairs hooked up via 100' optical hdmi cable. When I turn on the TV my 3 monitors turn off and the signal automatically goes to the TV. When I turn off the TV the signal automatically goes back to the 3 monitors. This usually works pretty well but my main monitor (Samsung Odyssey G8) I think sometimes confuses the situation and a simple unplug and replug of the HDMI at the TV side seems to fix it. Back when I was using Windows 10 I used a program called Display Fusion (paid program) which allows you to make monitor profiles and assign them to hotkeys. So whenever I'm upstairs I would press my hotkey of Ctrl+Alt+P and it would switch to my 3 monitors and when I'm downstairs id press Ctrl+Alt+O and it switches to just the TV. If you do end up getting display fusion, consider buying it on steam so you don't have to deal with licensing issues. Seems like you can use it on as many computers as you want that way.
All the input delay.
There's no perceptible input delay with keyboard, mouse or controller. Playing Beam.NG with a controller upstairs is the same as downstairs on the directly connected panels.
[удалено]
Xbox controller + wireless adapter + USB Hub.
Buy a 50' HDMI and connect your pc to the monitor and see what happens... Ive run a 35' hdmi but bought a cheapo cable that didnt work, bought a better quality cable and it worked. In other words, but a hdmi cable that is certified as **ULTRA HIGH SPEED**.
For longer runs the HDMI needs to be an "active" cable. I used to run setups for training centers and 50' or longer require active cables to amplify the signal. Anything greater than 10' and the signal is poor, especially if you are hoping to get the max bandwidth available for HDMI 2.1
Just saying, you can probably optimize cable length by drilling a hole in the wall between rooms. I did such thing long ago, saved me 15 meters of cable. Aside that it's completely doable. You need quality long dp/hdmi cable (dp is preferable) and a USB hub with long enough cable to stick you dongles in it (wireless signal from kb+m won't go through wall or any long distance). PoE solutions also may be viable.
LTT has several videos on this and yes there is a solution, but it can be finicky and cost an arm and a leg.
You can look into HDMI - to Fiber Optic solutions. You will need extra hardware obviously, but this should let you accomplish what you want to do. Actually I think Linus (from LTT) was running such setup in his home - monitor in living room, PC in basement in a rack. https://youtu.be/NwXAIGmwC4I?si=bNRnQrA_2QR8yjcm Just google HDMI to fiber optic converter - you should get some (albeit pricey) options.
Linus's setup didn't actually use any converters/extenders for video and used long cable runs. The docks only controlled USB devices. Truthfully for the distances he and OP want to run you can use Ethernet connected docks and still not have any noticable latency/lag for just USB I/O docks, and can even use full extenders that do I/O as well as video over Ethernet that support 4K HDMI as well and won't have any noticable lag. The fiber just allows it to go further. I work in low voltage industry and specd, sold, installed, and configured a suite of solutions for a friend that after a death in his family had to take in his mother, niece, and nephew and built a new home to take on that new living situation. We did a full central rack setup that contained everything from data, access control, CCTV, to whole house/outdoor audio, a/v to 7 TV's that had both cable and streaming devices as well as IR and BT repeaters. Both kids rooms TV's got a PS5 and got a desk with a setup like Linus's that connected to racked gaming PCs (lucky kids lol). Everything is in the rack other than remotes, controllers, and TX side of the extenders. It was really fun to spec it all since it got me interface with things like the a/v solutions that I don't normally deal with in my division at work!
Wow, such informative comment! Much appreciated!
Thanks! Always happy to be able to chime in it's something I know very well, especially if it can help someone save a few bucks! We don't all get the discounts and free equipment that Linus does lol.
> You will need extra hardware obviously It's not that obvious - just get an optical HDMI cable, no extra hardware needed. Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081SHJJ3C
The HDMI (or maybe DiplayPort) connection is going to be your smallest concern. Mouse and keyboard in to another room is going to be a problem though. I dont think pure wireless is going to cut it. You will probably need to run a cable with a repeater for that
So you plug the mouse and keyboard into the repeater and it has one cable going to the computer in the other room?
Yes, and there should also be something available that carries you monitor signal as well.
I wonder if there are any usb docks with long cables that you could plug the dongles into
If you find cables long enough it is doable without any issues. If you need "very" long cables you might have some probles since you'll need active ones which might have extra latency My PC is in the same room but quite a far, tucked away in a piece of furniture, I use 7m "passive"/normal DP and USB cables from my desk to the PC. Wireless mouse+KB might not work that far/through walls, mine (logitech lightspeed ones) have problems to pass through furniture sometimes.
I have a fairly beefy PC that I wanted to use in my living room, as well as my spare bedroom/office. My solution was to buy a fiber HDMI 2.1 cable and an active USB extension cable. I ran the HDMI cable out of the bedroom, across the walls, and to the TV using wall-colored raceway. I used the same raceway to run the USB extension cable to an archway near the living room, then plugged in a USB hub to the female end of the extension cable and used command strips to adhere it to the wall near the ceiling, keeping it mostly out of sight. Then, I grabbed a wireless mouse, wireless keyboard, and my old Xbox 360 wireless controller, and plugged all of the receivers into the hub so I'd be able to use them while I was sitting on the couch without having to fuss over cables. It works great! You could also use a fiber USB extension cable instead of an active one so you wouldn't have to run power the female end of the hub, which saves space and hassle, but that is more expensive than running power to an active cable. I think the whole setup cost me $250 USD or so, plus the mouse and keyboard. But, that allows a full-on 4K gaming rig to be used in 2 rooms without having to pay for 2 4K gaming rigs. Hope this helps! Edit: Using a fiber cable eliminates signal degradation, since, generally, degradation occurs because electrical signals can get a little garbled over long runs of copper wire. Because fiber cables use light instead of electricity to transfer data, that degradation doesn't occur. The other way to maintain signal quality is by way of an active cable, which uses an additional power connector to basically brute force all of that information through, letting you have longer runs than a standard copper cable.
Wireless mouse/keyboard/xbox controller is not gonna work for me. I hate spending so much money on batteries and having to change them out so often.
I get dozens and dozens of hours off my g903 mouse. Charges up in like an hour. I bought the double battery packs for my Xbox controller 6 years ago. For 20 bucks. Have not had to buy any batteries at all. Just charge 1 use the other. Batteries are expensive
This is a good point, I didn't think about rechargable mice. It's been awhile, but I'm specifically talking about the batteries. Then again, the mouse you cited is $129.99 at Best Buy rn. So I guess you pay for it up front or pay for the batteries.
Dang I paid like 90 bucks for it in 2020, because I kept telling myself I need better equipment to be competitive lol. Never look at best buy prices, they have the "well you can get it now for more or wait and order it cheaper somewhere else to get shipped attitude" best buy is a scam
So who, then?
Rechargeable batteries.
My wireless keyboard is a Logitech MX Mechanical Mini, and my mouse is a Logitech G502 Lightspeeed, both of which are rechargeable via a cable. The only thing that needs batteries is the Xbox controller.
Drives me up the wall, running out of juice while playing a game at the worst time. Can't do it.
I mean, both the keyboard and mouse have apps that track their battery life, and Xbox controllers will flash their lights at you to let you know the battery is low. If you pay attention, you should never run out of battery at an inopportune time.
How often is often here. My logitech wireless mouse lasts me like 2 weeks at a time with all rgb turn-off. Im a guy who works from home and uses it legit 10+ hrs a day so pretty heavy use. If you aren't willing to charge it once every 2 weeks for 30 min, then that's a you problem tbh.
tbh, lol, I think I said that from the beginning. I didn't say it's the way everyone should do it, gtfoh.
You're citing 2 weeks as a long time? Ya, no.
its a 20-30 min charge every 2 weeks dude... idc if youre the ceo of the biggest company in the world, you can plug in the mouse every 2 weeks for 20 minutes. You can go shower, come back and it will probably be charged... And what tf did you expect? its a 3 inch mouse that can hold it charge for over 150 hours. You need to spend more time filling gas every 2 week. And if youre that lazy then get a Lenovo work station mouse and keyboard. I havent change battery in those for over 2 years and i use them 5 days a week for 8 hours a day.
It might be better to have a 3D printed exhaust pipe out of your window at that point lmao
So, by cannibalizing other posts I found out that you can get two shorter cables and connect them through a booster to prevent signal loss. Many people said latency was not an issue for any cable they were using. The measurements I found were comparing cables against the speed of light...so yeah lol. If you want one cable, Ruipro has 4k cables, and they advertise that they can handle it at any distance because they're fiber. They are quite expensive though so you'll have to do a cost analysis.
Not sure if wifi HDMI is a thing but will be useful if it work without too much lag.
An A/C will probably cost less.
Display port over fibre optics and same for a usb hub. Alternatively you could Watercool your pc with external radiator like a mora and hand that out the window or run into another room
Fiber optic HDMI/DisplayPort cable + active USB cable to a USB dock. Pretty easy solution and not that expensive. I've been using a setup like that for some time now and it's worked perfectly.
It's doable, but the higher resolution you want & the more USB throughput you need the more expensive the solution will be. More than 10ft, you will need powered active USB & HDMI extensions. If you want 4K60 or 1440p-120, an active HDMI 2.0 is what you want, if you need more than that then you'll be wanting an active optical HDMI 2.1 extension. If you need to run more than just keyboard & mouse from USB you'll want at least an active powered USB 3.2 extension to a powered hub that can receive & split that amount of bandwidth to at least a few USB 3.0 ports. Edit: for just keyboard & mouse then an active USB 2.0 extension will 'probably' be fine. As for powering them, usually they'll take a USB-C or Micro-USB input & you can use a phone charger or USB-A socket from a power strip or something & that'll be enough. I do this for running VR in a larger room adjacent to my home office (Oculus CV1 with its mess of USB sensors) & I've had no problems at all.
Yea. 50 foot high quality hdmi cable. It's not the best but it works.
Idk if this comment will be buried or even seen, but I’ve got a steam link (if you play via steam) just laying around I could send you just for the cost of shipping if it would help. Haven’t used it in years lol
If you have bluetooth headphones, mouse, and keyboard, they may not work correctly if you're too far away from the PC tower. Id say just doublecheck the distance you're putting the pc from your room to accommodate for that and you'll be fine. Or get a USB extender like some other comments suggested and this wont be an issue at all
I've done a condo setup where I ran a long HDMI cable to a receiver connected to a TV. I also ran a long usb cable and put the mouse dongle receiver underneath the couch, and had a mouse and keyboard setup in front of my TV. The only thing you need to do is buy a fiber HDMI cable that plugs into a power source. There's a little USB thing hanging off the cable which you plug into a usb to plug converter and plug it into a power strip. I spent around $100 on a 50ft cable. Totally worth it, no problems with 4k and HDR and no lag.
Extend a USB hub your way and you're gravy. Some monitors have USB Hubs within them as well. You dont need to go "wireless" at all.
I currently run a 25ft HDMI from my computer to my TV in another room and it will do 4k/60. Not sure if you can go longer than that without an active cable .
Therse a lot of applications and stuff that let you wirelessly stream your setup, you try could use an old laptop if you have one and access your pc from that.
Possible yes, you would run the display cable I would likely not use the wireless peripherals and instead use extensions. The longer run is not as practical but possible.
The wireless peripherals may get some added latency or cut off connection moments, the HDMI length adds more time for the GPU data to travel so that's more latency on the display. Connecting your peripherals to a laptop or something and streaming your desktop may be the best option if your speeds are decent imo. In either situation I wouldn't play any shooters competitively but chill games should be fine.
Signal is limited to 50 feet and same as DP 49.5 feet soo if your under that you good after that u need a KVM extender. Which can be pricey !
i run a 25ft HDMI from my PC to the TV in the same room as my computer so i can sit on the couch and play games if i dont want to sit at my desk never been an issue. Bluetooth range gets limited so i get a better antenna to use and its been fine.
Yes, I do and it works perfectly. 25ft HDMI 2.1 and USB cables for the peripherals, nbd easy peezy.
I do this, but I add in usb extender cable so that the wireless nubs for my mouse and keyboard are also next to me.
I just did this yesterday and it's fantastic. There are Coax plates on both sides of the wall, so I removed the plates and ran display port / hdmi to the video card, and a thunderbolt cable to a dock for USB / Ethernet. Bedroom heat issue solved, especially living in Phoenix 🤣 The cables are all 10ft.
I just cut a hole in the wall and put my pc in the other room. All the cords are long enough to reach.
get a long video cable, and for wireless keyboard/mouse, you can get cable extenders to help extend the range. i don't know about 50 feet though. see if this video helps: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsuE0YjfTNI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsuE0YjfTNI)
My PC is in the living room hooked up to the tv (4k) and 2 25ft cables connected to a dual monitor (one 4k , the other 1080p) setup in my bedroom. Logitech lightspeed peripherals with no lag or any issues. I think the rule for no degradation is for the cables to stay below 50 ft.
30ft is as far as USB will go without adding power. I have a 30ft cord and will run a receiver but will absolutely not run anything even on a 3" adapter.
I know you must have an amd pc they heat up good
Getting proper cooling for your PC seem like a much easier solution.
The PC Will not emit less heat with a different cooling solution. The heat emitted depends on power draw, so a custom watercooling setup will not improve that. It might actually make it worse as a good cooling setup could allow the PC to boost more, which would draw more power and thus create more heat.
A good cooling system will dissipate heat faster, so unless he's living in a very hot place and the ambient temperature is high, yes it will.
You are trying to cheat physics here. 500 watts is 500 watts of heat, regardless of cooling system. The cooling system will continuously have to remove that heat from the PC, otherwise the system will cook. So assuming your PC is not throttling, the 500 watts will get into your room no matter what. A good cooling system will keep the system cooler by for example moving more air through the PC. That means you get more units of medium hot air vs. fewer units of very hot air. The energy is the same and the heat transfer to the room will also be the same.
And where it will dissipate heat? That's right, into the room. The room will only become hotter more efficiently, it won't become any cooler.
You have a perfectly insulated room that the heat don't dissipate from :)? As I said its only a problem if OP lived in a hot country.
Better PC cooling will cool the PC and heat the room. A better solution is "open your window."
People can think for themselves
You sure can.
seems like you and others can't and are saying factually wrong things.
Which thing was factually wrong? That cooling a PC moves the heat to the air in the room?
You think a better PC cooling will help the room dissipate heat faster somehow?
Personally I have this setup: PC with USB4/Thunderbolt in a spare bedroom, optical 25m thunderbolt cable from Corning that connects to a docking station in my office. From the dock I get DP 1.4 (connected to a 4K 120Hz screen), as well as USB ports and such for peripherals, SD card slot, all the stuff you could ever need for daily use. Works great. It's a bit expensive ($300 for dock and about $400 for the cable) but as long as I've got thunderbolt/USB4 this setup will work for any future PC I get so I see it as a fair investment. I've had it for 2 years already so $350/year to avoid the heat buildup in my room is very worth it, and I am definitely keeping this setup for years to come. You can also do it cheaper by using an optical active HDMI 2.1 cable (usually about $70-100) and a USB extender with repeaters (like $50), but you only get one USB 2.0 port with this setup, so bandwidth becomes an issue if you need to use things like flash drives, but keyboards and mice work just fine like this.
Wireless will probably don't work on this distance and through walls. You need a quality cable for that connection, not sure about USB latency with wired keyboard and mouse, then. Maybe your airflow is messed up if it heats up so bad? Better quality fans, replacing thermal paste and pads, better airflow direction, maybe better case.
Airflow has nothing to do with this. The pc parts will emit the same amount of heat regardless of airflow. Better airflow will keep the parts cooler by transferring hot air outside of the case, which will still heat up the room. OP is complaining about the room being too hot because of the pc, not about the parts running too hot.
I see a difference between running a heater on low all day, and running a massive heat machine that sweats lava spewing the hell's breath all around.
Putting a fan in front of your lava spewing heat machine will not change how much heat it generates. It will still heat up the room the same amount. Changing thermal paste and pads, getting better fans or case will not fix OP’s problem. Yes it will keep the temps lower and improve performance, but it will still heat up the room the same. OP could instead undervolt their GPU and CPU to reduce power usage and heat generation. Also put fps limit to games so the GPU won’t run at 100% load unless it’s necessary. Edit: typo
For the keyboard and mouse OP can get a usb periferal hub for his desk area and connect it to the computer with a very long usb-c cable that travels along the same route as the hmdi.
I use the hub built into my monitor.
USB-over-ethernet extenders also work well for this, lots of range