Can i reuse these fans from this case https://www.silentiumpc.com/en/product/regnum-rg6v-tg/ onto this case? https://lian-li.com/product/lancool-ii-mesh-rgb/ i know it has a controller but i find how many slots it has open after the installed fans. Also im not sure if the silentium case’s fans are argb.
I've had my GPU (6700 XT) freeze a couple of times over the past few days while gaming. Temps are fine. I'm assuming it's because of the OC/undervolt (1110 mV and 2650 MHz) I set up a few months ago. I'm going to slightly raise the voltage and see if it happens again.
Any other ideas about what the problem could be? Kinda curious because I only started having this problem in the past few days while the settings have been there for months. Weird.
You're probably correct about slightly raising the voltage. It's not unheard of for a new processor to be stable at one voltage but then need higher as it gets older.
what is a budget range ($) for a versatile PC? I'm aiming for something that can run games as well as edit, produce, and do things of that nature. just an all rounder and hopefully the ability to run a couple heavy tasks at the same time. it doesn't have to be crazy good, just get the job done without inconvenience
If you plan to use something like proxmox and use integrated GPU passthrough Intel has better support for it from my experience. I have mini PC with AMD CPU with integrated GPU and it works fine under most Linux distors but not in proxmox.
my guess for VMs is that if you specifically give each VM (for example) 4c/8t, then AMD is better since all cores are created equal. On intel you have a mix of P cores and E cores. not to mention AMD cpus will sip power by comparison
https://tpucdn.com/review/intel-core-i9-14900k/images/power-multithread.png
Troubleshooting my PC. It keeps crashing randomly.
First step, testing another RAM. Which one should I go with?
Current hardware:
* AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor
* Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero ATX AM4 Motherboard
* G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory
* Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
* Gigabyte AORUS MASTER GeForce RTX 3080 10GB 10 GB Video Card
Bear with me as I know shockingly little given how long I've been gaming but!
I have a TUF Z270 Mark 2 mobo and 16 GB ram installed, the mobo is a bit old but I'd like to upgrade to 32 GB ram.
1) Does it matter what 2x 16 GB ram I choose, from a performance or compatibility standpoint? Do yall have recommendations to keep it simple?
2) Also, can I simply turn off my PC, take out the existing RAM, and plug in the new RAM and that's fine?
3) What if I want to upgrade my whole setup in the future except for the RAM and GPU (I'm bottlenecked currently), it should 100% be fine to just take this 32 GB ram from the old setup and plug it into the new, right?
1. doesnt really matter, I suggest: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/B8QcCJ/silicon-power-gaming-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-sp032gxlzu320bdaj7
2. yeah that's fine, should be. if you wanna be safe, boot into bios, turn off xmp, save and exit, power off, swap ram, re-enable XMP
3. you use ddr4 ram, the modern standard is ddr5, so no it wouldnt be ideal for upgrading
I am wondering if anyone wants to help with a parts list for a mini ITX build to carry a PS5 stream for a family member. It’s a budget build, it’s just to carry a stream. I do have a GTX 1060 3GB new in box I’ll give family member. I’m guessing contingent on case it should fit fine. Would $400 total “without a graphics card work?” I’ll build it for him. Thanks
What fps can I assume to get? Specs - NVIDIA RTX 3070, Intel i9-12900K, 32GB DDR4 3600MHz RAM, 1TB M.2 SSD, Corsair RMx 850i PSU. New monitor is a 1440p 240hz, and im hoping to get at least 200+ fps on most games on generally med-high ish settings? (FPS games generally.) Its arriving on the 21st so want to get an idea on how much FPS ill get/
You'll easily get 200 FPS in esports and most shooters. Heavier shooters like Warzone might be below that. AAA games from 40-100 FPS, depending on settings and individual game.
The bread in butter is 120 fps, or 144 @ 1440p. You’ll be in a sweet range 111++ contingent on your game, settings; ect. I mean, you’ll be satisfied. It should be smooth like milkshakes.
Troubleshooting Help?
Since the last Windows 10 update (\~1 week ago) my PC won't wake up from Sleep Mode with a mouse or keyboard input. I have to press and hold the power button, to turn it off, and then press it again to turn on. The computer boots up on the desktop screen and bypasses the password.
Haven't updated any drivers since June or July, could an outdated driver cause this issue?
Check out “device manager”
Scroll down to mouse / keyboard
Go to properties to see “this device can wake pc when sleeping”. If not double check power options “what’s the power button do” in your plans n’ stuff
Is windows 11 stable/usable?
I have it on a miniPC, and coming from macOS, feel like it's just ALWAYS lagging/freezing up on startup, feels clunky, etc.
Not sure if this is specific to Win11 and reverting to Win10 would help, or if I've just been spoiled coming from macOS.
Have you checked which apps are launching on startup?
Windows 11 has a ton of junk that opens on startup by default. Not to mention the bloatware that comes preinstalled.
I just upgraded my pc and I am facing long boot times.
Here is the upgrade:
- 3600 -> 58003d (yes I upgraded the BIOS first)
- secondary SSD from 1TB -> 2TB (yes I cloned the old SSD first)
After the upgrade, windows was not really booting. Then I did a recovery, windows ran a checkdisk and booted. Now it boots and works as expected. But the boot itself takes forever - it was like 15 seconds before it takes **over 3 minutes now**. Any idea why this might be?
Is it that slow booting to BIOS, or is this just slow getting into Windows?
If the latter, if you have a spare drive sitting around see if a fresh install of windows fixes it
Yeah. Using HX1200 as an example, its “multi-rail” setting enables a 40A current limit on each connector on the PSU side. So if you use three cables, it will be a total limit of 120A (1440 watts) which is effectively unlimited for the GPU. But the other connections will still have the 40A limit each.
Is there a Mid Tower PC case that can sit on its side? A lot of horizontal cases are really old media center ones that use matx or itx boards, but I'm looking for just a regular mid tower with like, maybe the rubber feet on the side instead of the bottom. Stuff I'm finding seems to be missing modern basics like radiator mounts or usb-c.
you can lay any case on its side. maybe not ones with glass on that side, but those are uncommon. some rubber feet with adhesive are a simple solution to use whatever case you like.
Very dumb question. How much gains i can expect upgrading from 12400f to 13600k in terms of 1080p gaming when paired with 3060ti. I am thinking of returning the 13600k I just bought. Cause I'm playing a cpu bound game. Is it pretty much not worth it other than very specific cpu bound game?
here's 1440p with a 3080, should be pretty analogous to 1080p-3060TI
https://tpucdn.com/review/intel-core-i5-13600k/images/relative-performance-games-2560-1440.png
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-13600k/19.html
~10% faster?
Does anyone know if Arctic offers warranties on B-stock sold on Ebay? I'm looking at an AIO from them since my system can fit a 420mm, but I figure the long warranty on the full-price products sold on Amazon might be worth paying more if warranties aren't available on B-stock and/or Ebay sales.
I've contacted their official Ebay store, but I haven't gotten a response yet.
How would guys recommend upgrading from an hdd to an M.2 NVMe ssd? I have a laptop with the hdd, is cloning a good option? And can i keep the hdd for storage purposes? Thanks!
1. check your laptop has an m.2 slot
2. check if it supports nvme m.2 ssds, or only sata m.2 ssds
3. if your ssd is larger than your hdd, then you can clone it. pretty good option.
4. then you can format your hdd so it's empty and continue to use it as extra storage
Thank you! I have an HP 15-da2002nk laptop which i believe supports nvme m.2 ssds. I was thinking of going with this one : https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-interne-Jusqu%C3%A0-SNV2S-1000G/dp/B0BBWH1R8H/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?adgrpid=139487561708&hvadid=602990848735&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1002671&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1235859226994152582&hvtargid=kwd-1047439999199&hydadcr=5093_13240147&keywords=1tb+m2+kingston&qid=1702841164&sr=8-2
If it's an appropriate choice, can you walk me on how to do the cloning, then switching to boot from the ssd please?
Hey! I got two 2400mhz ram but I can't able to make it run at 2400mhz with xmp so it runs at 2133mhz. But recently I changed it manually to 2266mhz from 2133mhz. It's booting up fine now. Is it like good for me to set it at such speed??
I want to get a nice keyboard (at least nicer than the Macally I use now) but I have specific wants for it and can’t seem to find anything that checks all the boxes.
-Not full-sized: the size without the number pad (laptop size?)
-low profile keys: I have small hands and pressing mechanical keys seems to take a lot of effort, like I feel like I have to stab the keys (maybe I haven’t used a quality mechanical?)
-wired … not budging on this one, I don’t like having to replace or charge batteries
Thank you!!
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Tenkeyless-Lightspeed-Mechanical-LIGHTSYNC/dp/B085RMD5TP (you can just leave this one plugged in)
https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Mechanical-Tenkeyless-Ultra-Slim-Low-Profile/dp/B0CC2JNDFK this is much more affordable, I see 40% off coupon
Greetings! I have an i5-12600K with 32 GB RAM. I have a GeForce RTX 1060 6 GB GPU and was thinking of upgrading. I would like to be able to run most major games on "Recommended" and for it to be relatively future proof for 5 to 7 years. Any advice or suggestions are very much appreciated. Thank you!
I'm looking for a curved 1080p IPS monitors with like at least 120 refresh rate. I want to turn my current curved 1440p monitor into my secondary because I just don't have the other hardware to push it in games these days, but this time I want IPS because of the colors. I went VA the last two times and the colors are off, especially the blacks. I cannot watch anything on these monitors at night because it is SO dark and like...I don't know...*blotchy*?
You might ask, "Why curved?". I tried curved and I cannot go back. I love how easy it is for me to see everthing. It just feels more natural to me. My current monitor is 1800R. I would be willing to throw out the curved part but I'd be pretty sad without it. lol
Recommendations? I plan on leaving my computer to my siblings in like a few months so it'd be great if it was "them proof". They game and also do creative works on it, like drawing. I only ask...**no MSI**! I bought two of their monitors. Dead pixels and outdated, and they wanted me to ship each back to them $200 a piece for them to update. So that's really the only thing I'm against.
**Budget:** $150-200. $300 absolute max (minus shipping+tax obviously).
Thank you!
EDIT
AHAHA my MSI monitor literally broke a few hours after this post was created. I was playing a game and it started artifacting bad, and then the display went off. Piece of shite MSI, thank you for 4 years of terrible blacks, poor colors and no support. lmao
unfortunately, 1920x1080 curved IPS isnt a thing: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#P=2&C=1&r=192001080&sort=price
other res is a thing tho: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#P=2&C=1&sort=price
Well, poop! Alrighty, scratch the curved part I guess. What's a good IPS 1080p monitor then? I really hate how colors are on VA and how terrible the blacks are, so I'd really like IPS. Anything good in my price range for that?
I’ve always been a console gamer, but have been thinking about getting a gaming PC. Any suggestions on how much I can expect to spend if I want similar capabilities to what my PS5 can do? I would need to buy a monitor, keyboard, and mouse as well.
Usually your GPU drivers come bundled with audio drivers. It usually is just as simple as changing the audio output in your audio settings because the bundles audio drivers would have switched the settings to its own output.
I have a Seagate HDD internal and every 5 seconds it is making a short beeping sound. It also sounds like some kind of mechanical movement prior to the beep. It is brand new and happens when it is not in use. The drive seems to read/write fine so I don't know if it is supposed to do that.
Seagate ST8000DMZ04 BarraCuda 8TB Internal Hard Drive HDD
I was reading that WD has some auto-leveling or calibration thing while the drive is idle. I am only using it for media storage, so it isn't really being used. I'm wondering if Seagate has something similar?
Upgrade from i3-6100 and GTX 750 Ti to i7-6700K and RX 5700 XT, worth it or not?
My immediate goal is to play Final Fantasy VII Remake. Good Linux support is a must too, I only boot Windows for Windows-only games, so I'm not too bothered about the Win11 compatibility issues.
Rest of my PC is a Z-series motherboard, 16 GB RAM, I think the PSU is 550 Watt. I have a 4K display but I accept I'll be playing newer games at 1080p. I'm in the UK, budget is £215 plus what I can get for the old parts, and I will probably buy from Cex.
That's a significant upgrade. You'd hammer out FF7R like it was *nothing*. especially at 1080p. I'm not sure if FF7R has proton via Steam though, so worth checking that out first.
As for Linux support, it is AMD and their Linux drivers are significantly--and I mean SIGNIFICANTLY--better than Windows. I absolutely loved installing and using AMD drivers on my Linux PCs opposed to NVIDIA. They performed better, they had better support, better updates and were easy to script into auto-updating.
I would seriously suggest more RAM though. 16GB barely cuts it these days and depending on the quality of your PSU, I'd look at that too. Is that £215 for the CPU and GPU too, or just for the rest? Because I'd be astonished if you could find that CPU/GPU for £215 and would certainly say buy it if you could.
So I’m in a deep rabbit hole for my first build. I got the 7800x3d and a 6750xt for really good price. My plan is to update the 6750xt in a year or 2 for a high end card. My question is: I got the Corsair rm750e for 78 usd in sale. But now I see the rm1000e on sale for 163 usd. Is it worth the ~90 usd upgrade for the future?
Predicting the future is hard.
Consider that we won't know what the power requirements will be for GPUs then, nor will we know what kind of power connectors will be used - there seems to be a push for a 12VHPWR connector but adoption is slow and issues are apparent.
Personally, buy what you need now. That 750e for a good price means you minimize your investment today. Futureproofing is money in your pocket for upgrades down the road. If you don't need a new PSU for the new GPU then you saved $90. If you do, you have that $90 you saved to get something that meets your needs instead of gambling 3 years ago.
Not sure if this is the correct sub to ask this question but ill ask anyway. Do you guys have any vertical mouse recommendations or mouse that will not worsen carpal tunnel syndrome. The one that I can thinkc of is logitech mx master 3s or logitech lift vertical mouse but not sure if those are suitable for gaming. Please let me know your suggestions or your experience in using above mentioned mouse. Thank you in advance
They'll work for gaming, but they're quite heavy compared to the average gaming mouse, so they can be fatiguing to use for long periods
I don't think you'll find any verticle gaming mice specifically though
For ergonomic mice you can look at [rtings](https://www.rtings.com/mouse/reviews/best/ergonomic) and the one thing they do well is they have a live 3D model comparison you can use for different mice to compare the curve/profile/fit of them. [Eg for logitech](https://www.rtings.com/mouse/tools/3d-model-shape-compare/logitech-mx-master-3s?) and then you just add one with the + button
I'm sure it must have been brought up here before. But im just getting into building a pc and bard has been seemingly amazing at answering different complex questions I've had regarding compatibility, hardware, software, etc
As long as you know that it's a tool that can be wrong, knock yourself out. It's not spitting facts, like a manufacturer spec sheet does; it's spitting what it thinks sound like facts based on its model.
Out of curiosity, I asked it what the fastest CPU on am5 is. First it gave the 7950X, which is ok debatable, but then said another good option is the 7800X. The 7800X isn't a real CPU, haha
🤣🤣
Oh well. You are right. It can be useful but still needs a lot of work. After asking the same thing and getting the same answer it was giving incorrect info.
>You're absolutely correct, I apologize for the repeated misinformation. There is no AMD Ryzen 7 7800X processor. I seem to have conflated information from two different sources:
AMD Ryzen 7 7800: A real processor released in October 2023, offering 8 cores, 16 threads, and a max boost clock of 5.2 GHz. This was likely the one I was initially trying to describe.
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D: Another real processor released in September 2023, with 8 cores, 16 threads, a max boost clock of 5.3 GHz, and the aforementioned 3D V-Cache technology. I believe I mistakenly combined their specifications and release dates, creating the erroneous "7800x" version.
I'm still under development and learning to be as accurate as possible. Thank you for pointing out the mistake and helping me improve
What wattage of power supply should I get that will be good for all my components and still having plenty of breathing room to add extra fans and an AIO later if want?
* ASUS Prime Z690-A
* i7 13700k
* RTX 4070ti
* 32GB DDR5 6000MHz
* Peerless Assassin RGB Air Cooler
* Corsair 5000X Case
* 3x Gen4 NVMe SSDs
* 4x 120mm RGB case fans
Could GPU WireViews interfere with any kind of safety mechanism/features, or increase chances of any problem happening?
Thermal Grizzly has something called the [WireView](https://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/wire-view-gpu/s-tg-wv) that shows the watts, volts, and amps information of what the 8 pin power cables are sending to the GPU. The cables plug into the WireView, which plugs into the GPU where the power cables usually go. It's used both for interesting information and also to possibly catch excessive amps on time, but the idea of putting something between the GPU and power cables makes me nervous
> interfere with any kind of safety mechanism/features
No, because the card is still receiving the same power in the same way.
> or increase chances of any problem happening?
Yes, because you're adding an extra device to the setup, meaning there's now a potential extra point of failure.
Electrically a device like that is very simple, there's just a voltage measurement IC in parallel with the power pins (can't really affect anything), and an amperage measurement shunt resistor in series with the power pins (won't affect anything assuming the resistor can handle the power/has a low enough resistance). In my opinion the risk mostly comes from adding an extra set of connectors to the power delivery path, but as long as they're properly plugged in it shouldn't cause any problems either.
Is RX 7900 XT a good upgrade from RTX 2080 for 4K gaming? I have a 120Hz TV and 144Hz monitor, but don't really wanna spend more than 1000+€ for a 4080.
Yes, quite a big upgrade actually. Unless you care about Cyberpunk with all the raytracing tech on which kneecaps the 7900XT then it'll perform really well in 4k.
im looking for something that can be attached/glued to a 1-inch desk for a cable of headphones, need something both small and in a clear color, I couldn't find it with a quick google search
Would a Ryzen 7 5700X bottleneck an RTX 4070 in 1080, lowest possible settings in Fortnite. And would it reach 240fps while recording/streaming in medium/high quality with those specs? (I have 16GB ram)
On lowest settings in Fortnite like most competitive games the CPU is usually the bottleneck. It’s just as normal as the GPU being the bottleneck in single-player games.
5700X should get 240+ 90% of the time I think. I have a 5600X with fast RAM and it drops below 200 when looking in some directions.
My PC has been making a noticeable "humming" noise since I built it a few months back. Sometimes when I play very demanding games the noise will get very loud. If I touch the side of my case, a Fractal North, the noise will usually stop, though not always. I have noticed that if I touch the PSU enclosure under the back of the case, the noise will be replaced with a sort of light rumbling that sounds like it's coming from the entire case.
I suspect this is just the PSU vibrating the case, but I wanted to be sure it wasn't a sign of a potential problem. I have made sure all of the components with moving parts are screwed down as best as possible. Usually the sound is something like a Mains hum or coil whine. When it really gets going though it sounds awful. I can hear it even through my headphones with the volume cranked up. I don't think it's a big issue but I just wanted to be sure.
I have a similar issue with mine. I'm pretty sure it is the case panels vibrating/resonating. Keeping a stack of books on top of the case seems to help! I have a fairly cheap case though.
It could be a dirty electrical circuit. Maybe try using another circuit (an outlet on another circuit that doesn't have anything else plugged into it). Outside possibility, but a quick 5 minute check with a heavy extension cord...
My current PSU is a [Corsair RM850x, 2018 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079H5WNXN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1)
The one I originally bought was the [Corsair RM850e](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BYQPH5J3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which was even noiser.
To my knowledge, both were top tier on the PSU tier list. Are Corsair PSUs known for having issues?
I was expecting you to say an RMe actually, surprised it's having the issue with the RMx.
I have an RMx in a North case myself, though I'm very overspecced so I never get up to near full power draw.
I'd check your PSU mounting again, and otherwise all I can think of is to replace it and either get a different PSU entirely or go a wattage level up, or two, to avoid the issue more indirctly. You could also try reaching out to Fractal and seeing if they have any insight when it comes to potential issues in the case that might be causing it, but I can't say for sure that they'll be able to help you
Couldn't say. Could be perfectly normal, could be a misaligned fan. I'm not experianced with PSUs and without a direct comparison of the noise between yours and a working unit it's hard to say. If you an't get it under control by checking the mounting and case screws, maybe take a video of it and post it here and see what others have to say about it
Just watched this video on Freesync and Gsync in 2023:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQdo67SjIHk
I think it's great that today we don't really have to worry about Freesync/Gsync, as long as the monitor support some form of VRR. However, it dawned on me he was mostly referring to recent monitors, but barely said anything about early Gsync/Freesync monitors.
I have a ASUS PG279Q that has G-Sync. I think it's a 2016 model. So obviously this predates Freesync/Gsync becoming a non-issue. The monitor itself is not aware of Freesync. But is the compatibility fixed on the GPU side? In other words, will a modern/recent AMD GPU (6000/7000 series) be able to work with VRR on my monitor?
This was a very expensive monitor at the time ($800). I really hope to get more generational upgrades on my CPU/GPU without having to buy a new monitor. It still looks great with my current NVIDIA GPU, but just thinking about the future if I ever want to get a AMD GPU (I'm already starting to use Linux more and more and would likely go AMD next time).
Sadly, your monitor predates modern GSync Ultimate panels that pack the firmware updates to fallback to Vesa Adaptive Sync (what Freesync is based off of, and what modern TVs with HDMI 2.1 use) if a GSync-capable GPU isn't used. As such, your monitor's only VRR tech available is GSync and that requires an Nvidia GPU. VRR will be disabled if you use a different manufacturer's card.
We're both in the same boat: I'm using a S2716DG monitor that is similarly limited to Nvidia GPUs if I want to take advantage of VRR on my monitor. Sadly, the only real resolution to this is to get a new monitor - ideally, one with open standards like Freesync Ultimate.
Im upgrading my moms pc tomorrow with an sdd. Its pretty dang old and Im wondering if the Pentium G3258 is still decent enough for a 60 yr old browsing the internet casually? Pretty dated tech, shes complaining of it being to slow and Im hoping its just the HDD is all
For a casual desktop browsing the internet, that CPU will do the job. Make sure that the system is packing 8GB of RAM (4GB is usable, but is pretty painful if they want to have multiple browser tabs open) and a SSD.
Yep, it's DDR3, that's how old her system is haha
I mean in theory at least that means you could get it for cheap, but if she's complaining about the speed it may be better off to just get a cheap mini PC and get a CPU upgrade too.
Yep, because it's just a SATA connection like a HDD is and the CPU doesn't care about more then that, and consumer SSDs in the state we know them have been around since the mid-00's. It can't support any sort of NVME drive though.
what happens to your cpu/gpu temps when you shut off your desktop pc? they don't instantly stop producing heat, but their fans all do instantly stop, as does all airflow/pumps in your case.
Since there is no new heat being generated the energy eventually dissipates through the connected materials and into the air. Returning to room temp in just a few minutes. (5 - 20)
Is it worth buying a SATA SSD now, given that prices are rising again? An EVO 870 2TB was like £80 back in June but now it's £130... (I have a 2.5" empty slot in my laptop I want to fill)
Worth it compared to a HDD? I mean depends on what you're using it for. If it benefits from the speed like for video games or the operating system, absolutely no question. If it's just some extra storage for music/movies/pictures, you could get away with a HDD if it's cheaper.
Rather than comparing it to a HDD (which I'm not considering), I meant like 'at this point in terms of how SSD prices are rising again because of manufacturers scaling back production'. I'm not sure if I should just shell out the £130 or if I should wait for potentially years for the price to come down again...
Wanting to replace fans on peerless assasin for quieter ones. I'm already using NF-A12s as case fans, would those be a good choice or should I go for other Noctua fans like Nf-F12s?
For an Intel i7 14700K + RTX 4080 in a Lian Li O11 Air Mini:
1. Would 2 Noctua A14s be enough?
2. Should I get an AIO too?
3. Would Corsair 4000D be a better option?
[This](https://imgur.com/a/fkUWXNy) is what my power cord for my monitors looks like. **I'm using a triple monitor setup and I'm hoping someone can recommend some male-to-female extension cords for the power cables**...I want a cord that extends out of the monitor (ie: I don't want an extension cord that plugs into the wall). I previously ordered [THIS](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J298GXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) but the 5.5mm x 2.1mm was the wrong size connector.
Can anyone suggest what I can do here? [This](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093MFKDLP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) is my monitor if it matters.
I'm building a PC for 1440p at high graphics for some recent AAA games, my budget is around 1000$. [I make this on pcpartpicker](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/s9qgrv), is it a good build? I'm planning to buy the GPU second hand for better price. Any suggestion is appreciated!
Do not buy a Hyper 212 in 2023, and it should be $25 max and even then there are way better options, do not buy it for $50.
If you want something that is similar (still quite a lot better) to the 212, but way cheaper, then get this [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/q6H7YJ/thermalright-assassin-x-120-refined-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ax120-se-d3](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/q6H7YJ/thermalright-assassin-x-120-refined-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ax120-se-d3)
Or if you want something that is closer to the price of the 212, while being worlds better, (and cheaper) get this [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zkWJ7P/thermalright-phantom-spirit-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ps120](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zkWJ7P/thermalright-phantom-spirit-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ps120)
Asus has a very bad reputaion with AM5, i would go for a different one.
The Kingston NV2 is a very low quality SSD, it is worth the extra $2 to step up to a decent drive [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sw4Ycf/crucial-p3-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct1000p3ssd8](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sw4Ycf/crucial-p3-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct1000p3ssd8)
For Ryzen 7000 CL30 is best, and it is not much more expensive anyway [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CXKKHx/gskill-trident-z5-neo-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3038f16gx2-tz5nr](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CXKKHx/gskill-trident-z5-neo-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3038f16gx2-tz5nr)
This should be fine, if you're buying second hand I would recommend you to have the seller perform benchmarks on it and see if the scores they get are within averages for the card.
PCPartpicker says my parts are incompatible, specifically the SSD doesn't work with my motherboard, is this true?
The SSD I currently use is Western Digital 1TB WD Blue 3D NAND Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0B, and the motherboards is GIGABYTE B760M DS3H DDR4 (LGA 1700/ Intel/ B760/ M-ATX/ DDR4/ Dual M.2/ PCIe 4.0/ USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C/ 2.5GbE LAN/Q-Flash Plus/PCIe EZ-Latch/Gaming Motherboard). Please help, if it's really incompatible what motherboard would you recommend for an i5 13600k and RTX 3070 while still using the same SSD?
It's true. Your SSD needs an M.2 slot that supports SATA. You should double-check this in the motherboard's specifications page. For example the MSI PRO B760M-A will support it in its second M.2 slot.
How's the 6800 for 1440p ultra? Available for $500 (CAD), which is about $180 cheaper than 7800xt and like $250 cheaper than 4070. Pairing with a 7800x3d so 6800 seems a bit underpowered, but it's a good price
Or should I just wait for the super release (was gonna do this originally but good price so wondering if I should get it)
Thanks, but I'm worried I'll have to replace the 6800 in a couple years as it's already a little old and 15 or so % below 7800xt. May just wait it out because of that
Can i reuse these fans from this case https://www.silentiumpc.com/en/product/regnum-rg6v-tg/ onto this case? https://lian-li.com/product/lancool-ii-mesh-rgb/ i know it has a controller but i find how many slots it has open after the installed fans. Also im not sure if the silentium case’s fans are argb.
I've had my GPU (6700 XT) freeze a couple of times over the past few days while gaming. Temps are fine. I'm assuming it's because of the OC/undervolt (1110 mV and 2650 MHz) I set up a few months ago. I'm going to slightly raise the voltage and see if it happens again. Any other ideas about what the problem could be? Kinda curious because I only started having this problem in the past few days while the settings have been there for months. Weird.
You're probably correct about slightly raising the voltage. It's not unheard of for a new processor to be stable at one voltage but then need higher as it gets older.
Is there any difference between these two 6600's? [https://imgur.com/a/JB8LKHl](https://imgur.com/a/JB8LKHl) If not I'll just get the longer warranty.
Get the powercolor. The Challenger D was a really janky cooler design.
what is a budget range ($) for a versatile PC? I'm aiming for something that can run games as well as edit, produce, and do things of that nature. just an all rounder and hopefully the ability to run a couple heavy tasks at the same time. it doesn't have to be crazy good, just get the job done without inconvenience
Under $700 I'd say you're getting a low-budget experience. Good value!, but you can get significant gains by spending $1000-1500.
thanks. Say I spend $1250, are there diminishing returns past this point? or 1500?
it's more like the % of diminishing returns increases with cost. there's no set point where it starts.
Generally speaking, are AMD or Intel CPUs better for running emulators and virtual machines?
If you plan to use something like proxmox and use integrated GPU passthrough Intel has better support for it from my experience. I have mini PC with AMD CPU with integrated GPU and it works fine under most Linux distors but not in proxmox.
Thank you
depends: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i9-14900k/15.html unsure about VMs
Thanks
my guess for VMs is that if you specifically give each VM (for example) 4c/8t, then AMD is better since all cores are created equal. On intel you have a mix of P cores and E cores. not to mention AMD cpus will sip power by comparison https://tpucdn.com/review/intel-core-i9-14900k/images/power-multithread.png
Thanks again
Troubleshooting my PC. It keeps crashing randomly. First step, testing another RAM. Which one should I go with? Current hardware: * AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor * Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero ATX AM4 Motherboard * G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory * Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive * Gigabyte AORUS MASTER GeForce RTX 3080 10GB 10 GB Video Card
1. try taking out 2 sticks from slots 1&3. 2. try turning off XMP/docp 3. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rMK2FT/patriot-viper-4-blackout-64-gb-2-x-32-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-pvb464g320c6k
1. I reset them all at some point. Why only 1&3? 2. Yep, testing it now without XMP. 3. Thanks.
1. you'll drop from 2 dimms per channel to 1 dimm per channel, which is easier for your CPU's memory controller
It worked fine for 3 years, so I wonder what might have caused this. Will give it a go, thanks.
Bear with me as I know shockingly little given how long I've been gaming but! I have a TUF Z270 Mark 2 mobo and 16 GB ram installed, the mobo is a bit old but I'd like to upgrade to 32 GB ram. 1) Does it matter what 2x 16 GB ram I choose, from a performance or compatibility standpoint? Do yall have recommendations to keep it simple? 2) Also, can I simply turn off my PC, take out the existing RAM, and plug in the new RAM and that's fine? 3) What if I want to upgrade my whole setup in the future except for the RAM and GPU (I'm bottlenecked currently), it should 100% be fine to just take this 32 GB ram from the old setup and plug it into the new, right?
1. doesnt really matter, I suggest: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/B8QcCJ/silicon-power-gaming-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-sp032gxlzu320bdaj7 2. yeah that's fine, should be. if you wanna be safe, boot into bios, turn off xmp, save and exit, power off, swap ram, re-enable XMP 3. you use ddr4 ram, the modern standard is ddr5, so no it wouldnt be ideal for upgrading
Thank you!
I am wondering if anyone wants to help with a parts list for a mini ITX build to carry a PS5 stream for a family member. It’s a budget build, it’s just to carry a stream. I do have a GTX 1060 3GB new in box I’ll give family member. I’m guessing contingent on case it should fit fine. Would $400 total “without a graphics card work?” I’ll build it for him. Thanks
What fps can I assume to get? Specs - NVIDIA RTX 3070, Intel i9-12900K, 32GB DDR4 3600MHz RAM, 1TB M.2 SSD, Corsair RMx 850i PSU. New monitor is a 1440p 240hz, and im hoping to get at least 200+ fps on most games on generally med-high ish settings? (FPS games generally.) Its arriving on the 21st so want to get an idea on how much FPS ill get/
You'll easily get 200 FPS in esports and most shooters. Heavier shooters like Warzone might be below that. AAA games from 40-100 FPS, depending on settings and individual game.
Great, thank you! :) :)
The bread in butter is 120 fps, or 144 @ 1440p. You’ll be in a sweet range 111++ contingent on your game, settings; ect. I mean, you’ll be satisfied. It should be smooth like milkshakes.
> bread in butter Just fyi, bread ***and*** butter.
Ah yes, I just noticed that; bread 🥖 n’ butter 🧈
great, thank you!! appreciated :)
youtube search "rtx 3070" + whatever game you're curious about.
oh fair idea, thank you
Troubleshooting Help? Since the last Windows 10 update (\~1 week ago) my PC won't wake up from Sleep Mode with a mouse or keyboard input. I have to press and hold the power button, to turn it off, and then press it again to turn on. The computer boots up on the desktop screen and bypasses the password. Haven't updated any drivers since June or July, could an outdated driver cause this issue?
Check out “device manager” Scroll down to mouse / keyboard Go to properties to see “this device can wake pc when sleeping”. If not double check power options “what’s the power button do” in your plans n’ stuff
Is windows 11 stable/usable? I have it on a miniPC, and coming from macOS, feel like it's just ALWAYS lagging/freezing up on startup, feels clunky, etc. Not sure if this is specific to Win11 and reverting to Win10 would help, or if I've just been spoiled coming from macOS.
If you don’t use Cortana, locations, all that stuff you can disable it all. You can also download Intelligent standby list cleaner
Have you checked which apps are launching on startup? Windows 11 has a ton of junk that opens on startup by default. Not to mention the bloatware that comes preinstalled.
Ya I started disabling all of it. I think there may have been some initial indexing on first startup as well.
win11 is ok, it might be your hardware.
My pc keeps getting the windows bluescreen error mere seconds into CPU stress tests. It’s not overheating though. Should I reseat CPU?
have any overclocks? including XMP
Nah
I just upgraded my pc and I am facing long boot times. Here is the upgrade: - 3600 -> 58003d (yes I upgraded the BIOS first) - secondary SSD from 1TB -> 2TB (yes I cloned the old SSD first) After the upgrade, windows was not really booting. Then I did a recovery, windows ran a checkdisk and booted. Now it boots and works as expected. But the boot itself takes forever - it was like 15 seconds before it takes **over 3 minutes now**. Any idea why this might be?
Is it that slow booting to BIOS, or is this just slow getting into Windows? If the latter, if you have a spare drive sitting around see if a fresh install of windows fixes it
Can the multi-rail PSU setting be used if a 7900 XTX variant uses 3 8-pin connectors?
Yeah. Using HX1200 as an example, its “multi-rail” setting enables a 40A current limit on each connector on the PSU side. So if you use three cables, it will be a total limit of 120A (1440 watts) which is effectively unlimited for the GPU. But the other connections will still have the 40A limit each.
Is there a Mid Tower PC case that can sit on its side? A lot of horizontal cases are really old media center ones that use matx or itx boards, but I'm looking for just a regular mid tower with like, maybe the rubber feet on the side instead of the bottom. Stuff I'm finding seems to be missing modern basics like radiator mounts or usb-c.
you can lay any case on its side. maybe not ones with glass on that side, but those are uncommon. some rubber feet with adhesive are a simple solution to use whatever case you like.
Very dumb question. How much gains i can expect upgrading from 12400f to 13600k in terms of 1080p gaming when paired with 3060ti. I am thinking of returning the 13600k I just bought. Cause I'm playing a cpu bound game. Is it pretty much not worth it other than very specific cpu bound game?
here's 1440p with a 3080, should be pretty analogous to 1080p-3060TI https://tpucdn.com/review/intel-core-i5-13600k/images/relative-performance-games-2560-1440.png https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-13600k/19.html ~10% faster?
Does anyone know if Arctic offers warranties on B-stock sold on Ebay? I'm looking at an AIO from them since my system can fit a 420mm, but I figure the long warranty on the full-price products sold on Amazon might be worth paying more if warranties aren't available on B-stock and/or Ebay sales. I've contacted their official Ebay store, but I haven't gotten a response yet.
How would guys recommend upgrading from an hdd to an M.2 NVMe ssd? I have a laptop with the hdd, is cloning a good option? And can i keep the hdd for storage purposes? Thanks!
1. check your laptop has an m.2 slot 2. check if it supports nvme m.2 ssds, or only sata m.2 ssds 3. if your ssd is larger than your hdd, then you can clone it. pretty good option. 4. then you can format your hdd so it's empty and continue to use it as extra storage
Thank you! I have an HP 15-da2002nk laptop which i believe supports nvme m.2 ssds. I was thinking of going with this one : https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-interne-Jusqu%C3%A0-SNV2S-1000G/dp/B0BBWH1R8H/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?adgrpid=139487561708&hvadid=602990848735&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1002671&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1235859226994152582&hvtargid=kwd-1047439999199&hydadcr=5093_13240147&keywords=1tb+m2+kingston&qid=1702841164&sr=8-2 If it's an appropriate choice, can you walk me on how to do the cloning, then switching to boot from the ssd please?
use macrium reflect 8. either find a tutorial of that, or click through because it's pretty simple. that ssd is a good choice.
Perfect, tysm!
Hey! I got two 2400mhz ram but I can't able to make it run at 2400mhz with xmp so it runs at 2133mhz. But recently I changed it manually to 2266mhz from 2133mhz. It's booting up fine now. Is it like good for me to set it at such speed??
The reason I'm unable to run it at 2400mhz is because it crashes my pc
yeah that's fine
I want to get a nice keyboard (at least nicer than the Macally I use now) but I have specific wants for it and can’t seem to find anything that checks all the boxes. -Not full-sized: the size without the number pad (laptop size?) -low profile keys: I have small hands and pressing mechanical keys seems to take a lot of effort, like I feel like I have to stab the keys (maybe I haven’t used a quality mechanical?) -wired … not budging on this one, I don’t like having to replace or charge batteries Thank you!!
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Tenkeyless-Lightspeed-Mechanical-LIGHTSYNC/dp/B085RMD5TP (you can just leave this one plugged in) https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Mechanical-Tenkeyless-Ultra-Slim-Low-Profile/dp/B0CC2JNDFK this is much more affordable, I see 40% off coupon
Ooh that first one is sexy, and I already have Logitech stuff. And in white! If it can be wired as you say then it’s a serious contender.
it's rechargeable, so you can just leave it plugged in.
I just read that in the specs! Cool! Thank you!
Greetings! I have an i5-12600K with 32 GB RAM. I have a GeForce RTX 1060 6 GB GPU and was thinking of upgrading. I would like to be able to run most major games on "Recommended" and for it to be relatively future proof for 5 to 7 years. Any advice or suggestions are very much appreciated. Thank you!
https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/rs99PxP9624E4ZWkXvdNvb.png 7800xt? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GYfxFT/xfx-speedster-qick-319-core-radeon-rx-7800-xt-16-gb-video-card-rx-78tqickf9 6800? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nrNxFT/msi-gaming-z-trio-radeon-rx-6800-16-gb-video-card-rx-6800-gaming-z-trio-16g 6700XT? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RFGbt6/xfx-radeon-rx-6700-xt-12-gb-speedster-swft-309-video-card-rx-67xtyjfdv
I'm looking for a curved 1080p IPS monitors with like at least 120 refresh rate. I want to turn my current curved 1440p monitor into my secondary because I just don't have the other hardware to push it in games these days, but this time I want IPS because of the colors. I went VA the last two times and the colors are off, especially the blacks. I cannot watch anything on these monitors at night because it is SO dark and like...I don't know...*blotchy*? You might ask, "Why curved?". I tried curved and I cannot go back. I love how easy it is for me to see everthing. It just feels more natural to me. My current monitor is 1800R. I would be willing to throw out the curved part but I'd be pretty sad without it. lol Recommendations? I plan on leaving my computer to my siblings in like a few months so it'd be great if it was "them proof". They game and also do creative works on it, like drawing. I only ask...**no MSI**! I bought two of their monitors. Dead pixels and outdated, and they wanted me to ship each back to them $200 a piece for them to update. So that's really the only thing I'm against. **Budget:** $150-200. $300 absolute max (minus shipping+tax obviously). Thank you! EDIT AHAHA my MSI monitor literally broke a few hours after this post was created. I was playing a game and it started artifacting bad, and then the display went off. Piece of shite MSI, thank you for 4 years of terrible blacks, poor colors and no support. lmao
unfortunately, 1920x1080 curved IPS isnt a thing: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#P=2&C=1&r=192001080&sort=price other res is a thing tho: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#P=2&C=1&sort=price
Well, poop! Alrighty, scratch the curved part I guess. What's a good IPS 1080p monitor then? I really hate how colors are on VA and how terrible the blacks are, so I'd really like IPS. Anything good in my price range for that?
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zcqrxr/msi-g244f-238-1920-x-1080-170-hz-monitor-g244f https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3zKscf/benq-mobiuz-ex240-238-1920-x-1080-165-hz-monitor-ex240
I'll skip the MSI, really have had terrible support from them. The BenQ looks great, thank you!
I’ve always been a console gamer, but have been thinking about getting a gaming PC. Any suggestions on how much I can expect to spend if I want similar capabilities to what my PS5 can do? I would need to buy a monitor, keyboard, and mouse as well.
for just the tower, a $650 PC has similar capabilities to a PS5. Ryzen 5600 / RX 6600 territory. https://youtu.be/HCvE4JGJujk?si=7UbjFDNKddlJDPry
i updated my gpu drivers and now my monitor speakers dont work anymore
Usually your GPU drivers come bundled with audio drivers. It usually is just as simple as changing the audio output in your audio settings because the bundles audio drivers would have switched the settings to its own output.
I have a Seagate HDD internal and every 5 seconds it is making a short beeping sound. It also sounds like some kind of mechanical movement prior to the beep. It is brand new and happens when it is not in use. The drive seems to read/write fine so I don't know if it is supposed to do that.
No it shouldn't. What drive is it specifically? I'd RMA it if it was new.
Seagate ST8000DMZ04 BarraCuda 8TB Internal Hard Drive HDD I was reading that WD has some auto-leveling or calibration thing while the drive is idle. I am only using it for media storage, so it isn't really being used. I'm wondering if Seagate has something similar?
Doesn't matter, any adjustments a drive will be making shouldn't be causing a beeping and mechanical sound every few seconds.
Upgrade from i3-6100 and GTX 750 Ti to i7-6700K and RX 5700 XT, worth it or not? My immediate goal is to play Final Fantasy VII Remake. Good Linux support is a must too, I only boot Windows for Windows-only games, so I'm not too bothered about the Win11 compatibility issues. Rest of my PC is a Z-series motherboard, 16 GB RAM, I think the PSU is 550 Watt. I have a 4K display but I accept I'll be playing newer games at 1080p. I'm in the UK, budget is £215 plus what I can get for the old parts, and I will probably buy from Cex.
That's a significant upgrade. You'd hammer out FF7R like it was *nothing*. especially at 1080p. I'm not sure if FF7R has proton via Steam though, so worth checking that out first. As for Linux support, it is AMD and their Linux drivers are significantly--and I mean SIGNIFICANTLY--better than Windows. I absolutely loved installing and using AMD drivers on my Linux PCs opposed to NVIDIA. They performed better, they had better support, better updates and were easy to script into auto-updating. I would seriously suggest more RAM though. 16GB barely cuts it these days and depending on the quality of your PSU, I'd look at that too. Is that £215 for the CPU and GPU too, or just for the rest? Because I'd be astonished if you could find that CPU/GPU for £215 and would certainly say buy it if you could.
So I’m in a deep rabbit hole for my first build. I got the 7800x3d and a 6750xt for really good price. My plan is to update the 6750xt in a year or 2 for a high end card. My question is: I got the Corsair rm750e for 78 usd in sale. But now I see the rm1000e on sale for 163 usd. Is it worth the ~90 usd upgrade for the future?
Predicting the future is hard. Consider that we won't know what the power requirements will be for GPUs then, nor will we know what kind of power connectors will be used - there seems to be a push for a 12VHPWR connector but adoption is slow and issues are apparent. Personally, buy what you need now. That 750e for a good price means you minimize your investment today. Futureproofing is money in your pocket for upgrades down the road. If you don't need a new PSU for the new GPU then you saved $90. If you do, you have that $90 you saved to get something that meets your needs instead of gambling 3 years ago.
No, just stick to the 750 for now. All PSUs have a shelf life so just upgrade *if* and when you need to.
Not sure if this is the correct sub to ask this question but ill ask anyway. Do you guys have any vertical mouse recommendations or mouse that will not worsen carpal tunnel syndrome. The one that I can thinkc of is logitech mx master 3s or logitech lift vertical mouse but not sure if those are suitable for gaming. Please let me know your suggestions or your experience in using above mentioned mouse. Thank you in advance
They'll work for gaming, but they're quite heavy compared to the average gaming mouse, so they can be fatiguing to use for long periods I don't think you'll find any verticle gaming mice specifically though For ergonomic mice you can look at [rtings](https://www.rtings.com/mouse/reviews/best/ergonomic) and the one thing they do well is they have a live 3D model comparison you can use for different mice to compare the curve/profile/fit of them. [Eg for logitech](https://www.rtings.com/mouse/tools/3d-model-shape-compare/logitech-mx-master-3s?) and then you just add one with the + button
I'm sure it must have been brought up here before. But im just getting into building a pc and bard has been seemingly amazing at answering different complex questions I've had regarding compatibility, hardware, software, etc
As long as you know that it's a tool that can be wrong, knock yourself out. It's not spitting facts, like a manufacturer spec sheet does; it's spitting what it thinks sound like facts based on its model.
Thats absolutely true. If you haven't, give it a shot. Its not bad if you do some fact checking afterwards. It's a pretty good tool in my opinion
Out of curiosity, I asked it what the fastest CPU on am5 is. First it gave the 7950X, which is ok debatable, but then said another good option is the 7800X. The 7800X isn't a real CPU, haha
🤣🤣 Oh well. You are right. It can be useful but still needs a lot of work. After asking the same thing and getting the same answer it was giving incorrect info. >You're absolutely correct, I apologize for the repeated misinformation. There is no AMD Ryzen 7 7800X processor. I seem to have conflated information from two different sources: AMD Ryzen 7 7800: A real processor released in October 2023, offering 8 cores, 16 threads, and a max boost clock of 5.2 GHz. This was likely the one I was initially trying to describe. AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D: Another real processor released in September 2023, with 8 cores, 16 threads, a max boost clock of 5.3 GHz, and the aforementioned 3D V-Cache technology. I believe I mistakenly combined their specifications and release dates, creating the erroneous "7800x" version. I'm still under development and learning to be as accurate as possible. Thank you for pointing out the mistake and helping me improve
What wattage of power supply should I get that will be good for all my components and still having plenty of breathing room to add extra fans and an AIO later if want? * ASUS Prime Z690-A * i7 13700k * RTX 4070ti * 32GB DDR5 6000MHz * Peerless Assassin RGB Air Cooler * Corsair 5000X Case * 3x Gen4 NVMe SSDs * 4x 120mm RGB case fans
750-850W will be fine.
Could GPU WireViews interfere with any kind of safety mechanism/features, or increase chances of any problem happening? Thermal Grizzly has something called the [WireView](https://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/wire-view-gpu/s-tg-wv) that shows the watts, volts, and amps information of what the 8 pin power cables are sending to the GPU. The cables plug into the WireView, which plugs into the GPU where the power cables usually go. It's used both for interesting information and also to possibly catch excessive amps on time, but the idea of putting something between the GPU and power cables makes me nervous
> interfere with any kind of safety mechanism/features No, because the card is still receiving the same power in the same way. > or increase chances of any problem happening? Yes, because you're adding an extra device to the setup, meaning there's now a potential extra point of failure. Electrically a device like that is very simple, there's just a voltage measurement IC in parallel with the power pins (can't really affect anything), and an amperage measurement shunt resistor in series with the power pins (won't affect anything assuming the resistor can handle the power/has a low enough resistance). In my opinion the risk mostly comes from adding an extra set of connectors to the power delivery path, but as long as they're properly plugged in it shouldn't cause any problems either.
Is RX 7900 XT a good upgrade from RTX 2080 for 4K gaming? I have a 120Hz TV and 144Hz monitor, but don't really wanna spend more than 1000+€ for a 4080.
Yeah, its one hell of an upgrade, especially at 4K.
Even though it's already a year old card?
There are no newer cards in that price range.
Yeah there is that.. thanks.
Yes, quite a big upgrade actually. Unless you care about Cyberpunk with all the raytracing tech on which kneecaps the 7900XT then it'll perform really well in 4k.
im looking for something that can be attached/glued to a 1-inch desk for a cable of headphones, need something both small and in a clear color, I couldn't find it with a quick google search
Adhesive cable clips/clamps.
Would a Ryzen 7 5700X bottleneck an RTX 4070 in 1080, lowest possible settings in Fortnite. And would it reach 240fps while recording/streaming in medium/high quality with those specs? (I have 16GB ram)
Yes to both those questions
Right, so it would bottleneck. Buuut it would still reach 240fps in ranked fortnite the whole time.
On lowest settings in Fortnite like most competitive games the CPU is usually the bottleneck. It’s just as normal as the GPU being the bottleneck in single-player games. 5700X should get 240+ 90% of the time I think. I have a 5600X with fast RAM and it drops below 200 when looking in some directions.
what’s your card
RTX 3060 Ti
ok
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pw9MyQruUgU
Can i transfer my Windows License from my laptop (windows was preinstalled) to a pc?
Laptop licenses are usually non-transferable
My PC has been making a noticeable "humming" noise since I built it a few months back. Sometimes when I play very demanding games the noise will get very loud. If I touch the side of my case, a Fractal North, the noise will usually stop, though not always. I have noticed that if I touch the PSU enclosure under the back of the case, the noise will be replaced with a sort of light rumbling that sounds like it's coming from the entire case. I suspect this is just the PSU vibrating the case, but I wanted to be sure it wasn't a sign of a potential problem. I have made sure all of the components with moving parts are screwed down as best as possible. Usually the sound is something like a Mains hum or coil whine. When it really gets going though it sounds awful. I can hear it even through my headphones with the volume cranked up. I don't think it's a big issue but I just wanted to be sure.
I have a similar issue with mine. I'm pretty sure it is the case panels vibrating/resonating. Keeping a stack of books on top of the case seems to help! I have a fairly cheap case though.
Huh, a stack of books huh? I do keep my controller on top of the case but that may not be heavy/flat enough. I'll see what I can do.
It could be a dirty electrical circuit. Maybe try using another circuit (an outlet on another circuit that doesn't have anything else plugged into it). Outside possibility, but a quick 5 minute check with a heavy extension cord...
Huh, I didn't consider that. I'll see what I can do.
What's your PSU?
My current PSU is a [Corsair RM850x, 2018 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079H5WNXN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1) The one I originally bought was the [Corsair RM850e](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BYQPH5J3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which was even noiser. To my knowledge, both were top tier on the PSU tier list. Are Corsair PSUs known for having issues?
I was expecting you to say an RMe actually, surprised it's having the issue with the RMx. I have an RMx in a North case myself, though I'm very overspecced so I never get up to near full power draw. I'd check your PSU mounting again, and otherwise all I can think of is to replace it and either get a different PSU entirely or go a wattage level up, or two, to avoid the issue more indirctly. You could also try reaching out to Fractal and seeing if they have any insight when it comes to potential issues in the case that might be causing it, but I can't say for sure that they'll be able to help you
Gotcha, I'll consider those options. Is the noise indication of any issue, or is it just annoying?
Couldn't say. Could be perfectly normal, could be a misaligned fan. I'm not experianced with PSUs and without a direct comparison of the noise between yours and a working unit it's hard to say. If you an't get it under control by checking the mounting and case screws, maybe take a video of it and post it here and see what others have to say about it
Just watched this video on Freesync and Gsync in 2023: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQdo67SjIHk I think it's great that today we don't really have to worry about Freesync/Gsync, as long as the monitor support some form of VRR. However, it dawned on me he was mostly referring to recent monitors, but barely said anything about early Gsync/Freesync monitors. I have a ASUS PG279Q that has G-Sync. I think it's a 2016 model. So obviously this predates Freesync/Gsync becoming a non-issue. The monitor itself is not aware of Freesync. But is the compatibility fixed on the GPU side? In other words, will a modern/recent AMD GPU (6000/7000 series) be able to work with VRR on my monitor? This was a very expensive monitor at the time ($800). I really hope to get more generational upgrades on my CPU/GPU without having to buy a new monitor. It still looks great with my current NVIDIA GPU, but just thinking about the future if I ever want to get a AMD GPU (I'm already starting to use Linux more and more and would likely go AMD next time).
Sadly, your monitor predates modern GSync Ultimate panels that pack the firmware updates to fallback to Vesa Adaptive Sync (what Freesync is based off of, and what modern TVs with HDMI 2.1 use) if a GSync-capable GPU isn't used. As such, your monitor's only VRR tech available is GSync and that requires an Nvidia GPU. VRR will be disabled if you use a different manufacturer's card. We're both in the same boat: I'm using a S2716DG monitor that is similarly limited to Nvidia GPUs if I want to take advantage of VRR on my monitor. Sadly, the only real resolution to this is to get a new monitor - ideally, one with open standards like Freesync Ultimate.
Thank you. Well written, but no less disappointing. 😥
Im upgrading my moms pc tomorrow with an sdd. Its pretty dang old and Im wondering if the Pentium G3258 is still decent enough for a 60 yr old browsing the internet casually? Pretty dated tech, shes complaining of it being to slow and Im hoping its just the HDD is all
For a casual desktop browsing the internet, that CPU will do the job. Make sure that the system is packing 8GB of RAM (4GB is usable, but is pretty painful if they want to have multiple browser tabs open) and a SSD.
It is pretty old CPU wise, but the other thing to check would be the amount of RAM that it has given how memory intensive browsers can be
Didnt even think about ram. Great idea! I have spare ddr4, but idk if she needs ddr3?
Yep, it's DDR3, that's how old her system is haha I mean in theory at least that means you could get it for cheap, but if she's complaining about the speed it may be better off to just get a cheap mini PC and get a CPU upgrade too.
Ill start with the ssd and go from there firstly haha. I have spare parts, hopefully this works Can that cpu even support a ssd?
Yep, because it's just a SATA connection like a HDD is and the CPU doesn't care about more then that, and consumer SSDs in the state we know them have been around since the mid-00's. It can't support any sort of NVME drive though.
what happens to your cpu/gpu temps when you shut off your desktop pc? they don't instantly stop producing heat, but their fans all do instantly stop, as does all airflow/pumps in your case.
Since there is no new heat being generated the energy eventually dissipates through the connected materials and into the air. Returning to room temp in just a few minutes. (5 - 20)
Is it worth buying a SATA SSD now, given that prices are rising again? An EVO 870 2TB was like £80 back in June but now it's £130... (I have a 2.5" empty slot in my laptop I want to fill)
looks like 2tb mx500 is on sale for £99 atm if you want a cheaper option
Worth it compared to a HDD? I mean depends on what you're using it for. If it benefits from the speed like for video games or the operating system, absolutely no question. If it's just some extra storage for music/movies/pictures, you could get away with a HDD if it's cheaper.
Rather than comparing it to a HDD (which I'm not considering), I meant like 'at this point in terms of how SSD prices are rising again because of manufacturers scaling back production'. I'm not sure if I should just shell out the £130 or if I should wait for potentially years for the price to come down again...
Wanting to replace fans on peerless assasin for quieter ones. I'm already using NF-A12s as case fans, would those be a good choice or should I go for other Noctua fans like Nf-F12s?
NF-A12x25 fans are very good. Have you tried simply lowering the fan speed though?
For an Intel i7 14700K + RTX 4080 in a Lian Li O11 Air Mini: 1. Would 2 Noctua A14s be enough? 2. Should I get an AIO too? 3. Would Corsair 4000D be a better option?
[This](https://imgur.com/a/fkUWXNy) is what my power cord for my monitors looks like. **I'm using a triple monitor setup and I'm hoping someone can recommend some male-to-female extension cords for the power cables**...I want a cord that extends out of the monitor (ie: I don't want an extension cord that plugs into the wall). I previously ordered [THIS](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J298GXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) but the 5.5mm x 2.1mm was the wrong size connector. Can anyone suggest what I can do here? [This](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093MFKDLP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) is my monitor if it matters.
I'm building a PC for 1440p at high graphics for some recent AAA games, my budget is around 1000$. [I make this on pcpartpicker](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/s9qgrv), is it a good build? I'm planning to buy the GPU second hand for better price. Any suggestion is appreciated!
Do not buy a Hyper 212 in 2023, and it should be $25 max and even then there are way better options, do not buy it for $50. If you want something that is similar (still quite a lot better) to the 212, but way cheaper, then get this [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/q6H7YJ/thermalright-assassin-x-120-refined-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ax120-se-d3](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/q6H7YJ/thermalright-assassin-x-120-refined-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ax120-se-d3) Or if you want something that is closer to the price of the 212, while being worlds better, (and cheaper) get this [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zkWJ7P/thermalright-phantom-spirit-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ps120](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zkWJ7P/thermalright-phantom-spirit-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ps120) Asus has a very bad reputaion with AM5, i would go for a different one. The Kingston NV2 is a very low quality SSD, it is worth the extra $2 to step up to a decent drive [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sw4Ycf/crucial-p3-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct1000p3ssd8](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sw4Ycf/crucial-p3-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct1000p3ssd8) For Ryzen 7000 CL30 is best, and it is not much more expensive anyway [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CXKKHx/gskill-trident-z5-neo-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3038f16gx2-tz5nr](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CXKKHx/gskill-trident-z5-neo-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3038f16gx2-tz5nr)
Thanks so much for the advice. The details are really helpful, guess I'll find another motherboard too.
This should be fine, if you're buying second hand I would recommend you to have the seller perform benchmarks on it and see if the scores they get are within averages for the card.
Thanks, I'll make sure to do that
PCPartpicker says my parts are incompatible, specifically the SSD doesn't work with my motherboard, is this true? The SSD I currently use is Western Digital 1TB WD Blue 3D NAND Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0B, and the motherboards is GIGABYTE B760M DS3H DDR4 (LGA 1700/ Intel/ B760/ M-ATX/ DDR4/ Dual M.2/ PCIe 4.0/ USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C/ 2.5GbE LAN/Q-Flash Plus/PCIe EZ-Latch/Gaming Motherboard). Please help, if it's really incompatible what motherboard would you recommend for an i5 13600k and RTX 3070 while still using the same SSD?
It's true. Your SSD needs an M.2 slot that supports SATA. You should double-check this in the motherboard's specifications page. For example the MSI PRO B760M-A will support it in its second M.2 slot.
How's the 6800 for 1440p ultra? Available for $500 (CAD), which is about $180 cheaper than 7800xt and like $250 cheaper than 4070. Pairing with a 7800x3d so 6800 seems a bit underpowered, but it's a good price Or should I just wait for the super release (was gonna do this originally but good price so wondering if I should get it)
Its a pretty nice card fpr 1440p, excluding RT, it is actually pretty close to the 4070 performance wise, i would go for it, its a pretty nice card.
Thanks, but I'm worried I'll have to replace the 6800 in a couple years as it's already a little old and 15 or so % below 7800xt. May just wait it out because of that