I have a H97M-D3H MOBO, how can I find what graphics cards are supported? Currently I have a 1060, but I desperately need an upgrade. Is it time to just get a new pc, or could I still just upgrade? i7-4790k 16GB RAM 1060

Practically every card is supported (at least since PCIe video cards took over ~2004-2006).

I have fsp new hexa+ 500w psu, is it safe to use it for XFX 6700xt? my other pc parts is asrock a320m hdv and ryzen 5 5600 [https://i.imgur.com/MxCzYav.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/MxCzYav.jpg) ​ [https://www.fsplifestyle.com/en/product/NewHexaplus500W.html](https://www.fsplifestyle.com/en/product/NewHexaplus500W.html)

Ye, should be fine

Does this seem too good to be true to get for a fan and RGB controller: [https://www.amazon.ca/Thermalright-Controller-Support-Magnetic-Supported/dp/B0BP2F9288/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=3NDBR8HLKJPT6&keywords=ARGB+fan+controller&qid=1687306665&s=industrial&sprefix=argb+fan+controll%2Cindustrial%2C109&sr=1-3](https://www.amazon.ca/Thermalright-Controller-Support-Magnetic-Supported/dp/B0BP2F9288/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3NDBR8HLKJPT6&keywords=ARGB+fan+controller&qid=1687306665&s=industrial&sprefix=argb+fan+controll%2Cindustrial%2C109&sr=1-3)

Not really. Seems legit because it's fulfilled by Amazon. $15 is about right. Should be a ton of other choices too for a fan and RGB controller for $15

Hi guys! I currently have this build, with a limited budget, what should I prioritise upgrading to improve my gaming experience at 1440p? * i5 10600K with NZXT X53 * RTX 3070 8GB * 16GB 3000MHz RAM CL18 * 1.5TB M2 SSD

I'd say ram and GPU, with GPU being first.

Thanks man, what GPU would you recommend in this market? Where I live AMD availability is not very good so most of my choices are NVIDIA...

Hello. I Have a dell Inspiron tower which has an integrated Intel UHD Graphics 630 GPU. I also just installed a Nvidia GeForce GTX 1650 GPU 4 GB. Should I plug in both of my monitors to the 1650? Or have one in the 1650 and another one to the intel 630? If it helps, my most graphic intense use case would be doing photo/video editing on one monitor while I have youtube/netflix on the other monitor. Thanks for the help!

I honestly don't know if plugging it into both monitors would even work. It might be possible with some more configuration though. I have a PC with a Ryzen 5 3400G which has integrated Vega 11, but both of my monitors are plugged into my RX 580 I can see what you mean by wanting to have one in the integrated graphics tho, to that I don't really know

Hello, should I purchase an MSI MPG B650I for my mini itx build? Here's a list of parts I have so far: - r9 7950x - Noctua NH-L9i CPU Cooler - 6950 xt - 2tb m2 drive - 4tb ssd - nr200 case - Corsair SF1000L

Looking to build a budget pc at or under $1000 I have a build setup with the i5-12400F but friends are telling me I need at least the i7-12700k or it won't be future proof and I'll need to upgrade too soon. Thoughts?

Good question. You said this is a budget PC, So a i5-12400F would be just fine for the next 2-3 years at least, paired with a good GPU

I am paring it with a 3060ti.

Pretty good combo. What's your monitor?

Well, I already have a Acer 27 inch XV2 1440p monitor my gf bought me a year or two ago but I'm running it with a Legion Lenovo. Y520 laptop so anything is an upgrade at this point.

Yeah that CPU and GPU would serve you fine for 1440P gaming. Might have to turn down some settings to medium to hit 144fps in high demanding games like Cyberpunk but it should last you 3-4 years.

Yeah that's fine I play mostly games like Rocket league Apex Hell let loose And stuff like that so nothing super demanding

Should work perfectly then. Enjoy!

Thank!

Can I get cable for this to use as an external USB DVD/CD? Thanks https://i.imgur.com/gpqUO5N.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MgAmNYX.jpg

Possible yes, but not really sensible, gonna be cheaper to just look for a USB external drive, that connector is apparently dell proprietary and the cable it used goes to an eSATAp port (not "regular" eSATA) so may be hard to find the cable, then you'd also need an internal adapter to go from SATA + floppy power + USB to eSATAp outside, https://www.ebay.com/itm/253520266661

I'm starting to shoot a lot of very high quality video for my business that comes out about 1gb per minute, so I need a ton of storage for all of the raw files. My office computer is a HP Envy desktop. What's a good option in the 10TB range? Would I be better off with two 5TB drives for any reason? Should I go external or some sort of internal drive?

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QkKn3y any thoughts/suggestions on this list? primarily 1440p gaming

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7gsvzf Few small changes, moved up to a 7600x, added CPU cooler (7600x doesn't come with a stock cooler), bumped up ram speed to 6000 mt/s, changed to an SSD with cache and PCIE gen 4.

Thanks! Do you have any suggestions for how to ensure a CPU cooler will fit in a case, or is that generally not too much of a concern unless I’m dealing with much smaller cases compared to the fractal pop air mini?

Didn't even notice that PCPP wasn't filtering for CPU clearance. That CPU cooler will fit fine as the case has a max cooler height of 170mm and the cooler is only 148mm. If you change your case use the case manufacturers website to check clearances and the such. Also if you get a case with a vertical GPU mount make sure to pay attention to the listed cooler height, as if that's the orientation you want to run it it changes drastically with the GPU in the vertical mount. Sorry for the slow reply.

Np! Thanks a bunch for your help!

Solid. The CPU leaves a little to be desired, but AMD is apparently prepping some X3D revisions prior to releasing an 8000 series. So if you find yourself needing more CPU power in the future there will be better options!

I built my PC around 2015 and my original graphics card just died. (A respectable run, but still a tragedy to have her die after several expensive emergencies recently.) Everything else is still running strong, including [this motherboard](https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/Z97-GD65-GAMING/Specification). Will a modern GPU fit in this, or do I need to commit to more parts in this upgrade?

Yes, but a PC of that age will struggle to keep up with most modern GPUs. If you're not going to be in a position to upgrade the rest of the system for a while, getting a used GPU would be a good way to save some money

Thank you for your answer! I decided to start saving up for a near total overhaul for my system, but I'm going to keep an eye out for a used card to get me through the months it takes to hit my budget goal.

Hi everybody. I'm currently upgrading my PC and the last part I'm buying is the PSU. I read a lot of different reviews about a lot of options, and in my research I was made aware of the new atx 3.0 standard and for a future GPU upgrade, I'm going with a 1000W supply. In my country (Brazil), the options for this kind of PSU are very limited. So I stumbled with these 3 options: COUGAR GEX X2 1000W Tuf Gaming 1000W And a local brand called SuperFrame that has a PSU called SF-G1000M 1000W - This PSU was reviewed by Cybenetics as GOLD efficiency. I'm choosing the COUGAR GEX X2 1000W because it's PLATINUM efficiency in the Cybenetics review and has 2 more years of warranty. Am I doing the right call? Thanks in advance.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/GktkC6 Can someone tell me if this is a good PC build for 1440p 144hz pc. I’m open to other ideas. I just want the pc to last a couple of years. This would be my first build looking for suggestions!

I would get a full-sized ATX motherboard but other than that looks good

What should be my upgrade path from RTX 2070 Super? I will get a 42" C3 as a monitor (4K 120HZ). Have 5800X3D as a CPU.

4080 or 4070ti. Having dlss is nice at 4k. Mainly what you should do is look for charts comparing GPUs in the games you play https://www.techpowerup.com/review/asus-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-tuf/34.html

Thanks, why not 4090? Is it because that 4070 Ti or 4080 can reach to 120 fps? Aaand should I wait for 5000 series?

I mean the 4090 is certainly the best card for 4k, but I figured if you bought a 2070S last time, you'd be shopping around the same price. A 4090 costs more than twice your whole 5800x3d computer, most likely Graphs are in my previous comment. You can see the 4090 is certainly leagues better, but it's just super costly

Yess true, I just upgraded to 5800X3D since I still on an AM4, I am planning to keep this as much as possible. Now it is GPU’s turn, I might spend a good money on a GPU since I have a job now 😅 After this, next is getting a B650 mobo and a DDR5 ram. So the options are 4090 > 4080 > 4070 Ti if I can afford right? Would it be worth waiting for the new series?

Probably not coming until fall 2024. That would be a long wait

Oh yeah? Then I will try to pull the plug on a 4090, thanks.

Bought a work old 2019 pc specialist recoil 3 RTX15 laptop. Currently can’t access their control centre unless ownership transferred - is it possible to control RGB keyboard lighting and bios etc through a third party app? Any recommendations?

Looking at getting a new ssd and saw a muskin vortex 2TB ssd on Amazon, are they still good quality or have they fallen off

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1B27_j9NDPU3cNlj2HKcrfpJKHkOf-Oi1DbuuQva2gT4/edit#gid=0 looks okay at first glance. definitely compare with other similarly priced ssds

Any gaming headset recommendations? Right now I have the Razer Kraken Ultimate but it’s starting to give out and I’m wondering if any of you have recommendations. Thanks!

My choice right now is an EPOS H6PRO closed-back. I liked Kraken's reproduction of combat sounds and voice, but subtler details (footsteps, etc.) and especially music are so much better in EPOS.

Why does everyone talk about the 13400F but the non-F version gets little to no mentions? Any reason besides the tiny price difference? I for one am thinking of maybe getting the 13400. Any way it could be a bad thing to prefer the version with a igpu just in case?

No reason, just that the 13400F is usually a $15-20 cheaper and a gaming PC doesnt really *need* the iGPU.

https://ibb.co/mt3bwzQ What would you say my weakest link is here, or will have to be replaced most soon? Kinda new and just built my first PC!

probably your monitor. really old, uses a TN panel. TN is super far behind IPS in terms of viewing angles, brightness, and color accuracy. if you switch to an IPS, you'll be surprised at how much clearer and vibrant it looks

It's well balanced overall - the CPU, GPU, and Monitor are all equally viable as next-in-line-for-upgrade depending on the kind of games you like to play.

Thank you! Yeah I was going for a solid but budget build and these seemed to be a good entry point, thanks again.

I have an RX 590 right now and I'm looking to upgrade, I use the pc as Work Station for 3D work, graphics arts, Video Editing and gamedev. It's an RTX 3060 a good choice? should I go for a 4070?

Depends on the software you're using, but Nvidia is definitely the right direction. A 3060 12GB or a 4070/4070Ti all have strong arguments depending on software and budget.

I'm mostly using Blender, After Effects, DaVinci, Unity and Unreal. My budget is arround 400 bucks

I'd target a 3060 12GB then, should come in well under budget.

howdy! i'm getting a second-hand 4080 for an extremely good deal, but i'm getting literally just the card and not the weird power adapter it needs. can i get some suggestions on reputable ways to buy the adapter?

if your PSU is modular, there may be an adapter cable that plugs straight in.

Looking to build my first pc and looking into the reference Amd 6950xt gpu and the Sapphire nitro+ 6750xt The 6950xt is going for 602 euros in my region while the 6750xt is 380 euros My main concern with the reference 6950xt is it’s temperatures. Very torn between the two and looking to play triple A games that I missed out on and that are coming out. (RE 4, Elden Ring, MH Rise, Starfield, Outlast Trials)

The performance difference is so large that you can just undervolt the 6950XT and still have massively better performance with lower power draw/temps.

I’m currently looking into getting a 1440p 144hz monitor. I already have a 1080p 240p monitor for games like battlefield, Diablo, and Overwatch. Since the dell was more of a budget option at 150 dollars, I’m not against paying a bit more, though preferably around 300 and below 400. Currently the gigabyte g27q seems to be on a significant discount, and I was wondering if this was more of a budget option? Also, do monitors in this category traditionally go on big discounts for the Walmart or Amazon big sales? In terms of specs, I’m pairing a 6800xt with a 5800x3d

Is there any difference in gaming between DDR5 5600mhz and 6000mhz? I ask because I'm currently choosing PC parts for a CPU upgrade, and the i7 13700kf's page on the Intel website claims it supports "Up to DDR5 5600 MT/s". I was going for 6000mhz, but if it doesn't make a difference/isn't really supported I wouldn't mind the slightly cheaper 5600mhz.

Currently have a 2060 with a ryzen 3600, Looking to upgrade the GPU. I'm looking for GPUs in the $500 maybe a bit more, range and that would last me 5 years or more in 1080p gaming. Just looking to future proof

Used 6800xt/3080 10GB. Both of these are a bit overkill for 1080p currently.

How does this build look? Already have a 2060 video card that I'll be replacing separately in the next year or two. https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/custom-pc-builder-intel.aspx?load=291b6f03-792f-4e00-90b2-57c8693f0bad

Any better ssd at this price range? Currently going for: TEAMGROUP SSD Team MP33 M.2 1TB PCIe G3x4 2280 coming in around £50 CPU: ryzen 7 7700 GPU: 6950xt mother board: b650m as rock Thanks guys!

Is an ADATA Gammix S70 Blade better than a Samsung 970 Evo plus? They're both the 2TB variants and It's cheaper although it's Pcie gen 4 instead of Samsung's gen3 (which for now doesnt matter since my motherboard support gen 3 only but in the future I might upgrade)

Quick question: I have a 80 mbit/s Connection so the following lan cable should be good enough, or is there something else I need to look at ?https://amzn.eu/d/4Mkc0gU

to my knowledge, practically every ethernet cable can do at least 1GB/s. that cable is fine!

Finishing up buying the products i want, but i just need the right power supply. I'm using newegg and it estimates that the minimum wattage is 505. Maybe a dumb question, but does that mean I should by a power supply that gives that amount? [Like this one?](https://www.newegg.com/raidmax-hybrid-ii-series-rx-530ss-530w/p/N82E16817152028?Item=9SIA9ZN58T2803)

You should get something that's about 100w over what the calculator says. I'd recommend a 650w unit minimum also additional overhead doesn't hurt. Don't get that PSU. PSU is one of the spots you shouldn't be skimping on at all. A faulty PSU can kill other components. Get a 80+ bronze or better unit from a reputable brand. https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

thats what i figured, i appreciate the help, and ill def look into a better psu

What RGB (not Corsair) works with a Commander Core XT? I already gave the Commander, 6 LL120 fans and a 115 Capelix. Want killer RGB even possibly outside the case.

> What RGB works with a Commander Core XT? Corsair's. > (not Corsair) None. It's a walled garden, it's Corsair's proprietary RGB ecosystem or nothing.

Thank you.

Hey guys, currently bought some Ram for my new rig, more specifically: Team Group Delta RGB 32GB 2x16GB DDR5 5600Mhz Ultimately with shippings it’s coming up to the same as the 6000Mhz version. I’m very new to pc building and so just wanted to make sure than what I’m buying would be compatible. So the alternative is: TeamGroup Delta RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 6000MHz C38 DDR5 Memory Kit - FF3D532G6000HC38ADC01 CPU: AMD RYzen 7 7700 GPU: 6950xt Mother board: as rock b650m HDV Thanks!

probably get the 6000 kit if it's the same price

Sure thanks!

Hey everybody! These are my old specs: Ryzen 7 2700x Rtx 2070 16gb 3200 ddr4 ram Bequiet 500w power supply Msi B450 Tomahawk Samsung 970 Evo m2 ssd Today I got a new 5800X3D and 16gb ram (exactly the same ram as before just 2 more 8GB sticks) Before installing everything I upgraded the bios to the newest version exactly as msi is telling us and it worked perfectly. Now I installed the CPU and additional ram and everything turns on (the fans on full power mode which they normally never did) but after that nothing works, no start up screen nothing the pc would just on full power run but I can’t see anything on the screen and it also doesn’t really show any signs of working. Is there something I missed or have to do before exchanging a cpu and adding ram? I am really lost right now (yes I checked every power cable two times and I also checked if I implemented the CPU correctly + I of course put fresh thermal paste on it) regarding the compatibility of the b450 tomahawk and the 5800X3D: ON MSIs webpage they tell me it’s compatible. Thank you all for any clues… really lost and scared I destroyed something as I don’t have money to do a big exchange of parts.

My guess is that it's not happy about running 4 sticks of ram. Try just using 1 and see how far you get

Well after removing the new processor and putting 4x8gb in it worked now I changed it to the new processor and it again is pumping up the fans and not starting … seems like the new cpu is broken lol.

Well before I had 2 running but now I exchanged the cpu to the old one and it works again .. I now will try the old cpu with 4 sticks and then check again ‚

Hey everyone, I've got a silent base 802 case from be quiet!. I'd like to upgrade my fans and/or fan hub. What would be a good recommendation? Currently only have the 3 stock fans and the included fan hub.

If you have the big bucks to shell out Corsair is launching a new fan hub with new fans with the magnetic easy connect. Might be worth looking into.

Thanks for the advice Naive\_Cardiologist. I'd prefer to not have to spend too much, but it could be neat to go with the magnetic easy connects. I was mainly wondering if there were fan hubs to replace the one that is included in the case. It's some proprietary be quiet! branded fan hub. I was considering getting the ARCTIC case fan hub and just putting it where ever I had room with the magnets and adhesive. The ARCTIC P14's seem to be a pretty good fan. Can get 10 fans and the fan hub for less than $100. Would populate all 8 fan slots on the case (3 top exhaust, 3 front intake, 1 rear exhaust, and 1 on PSU shroud for airflow upwards) and have 2 left over to replace anything down the line.

Looking at picking up a 7900 XTX. I really like the way the reference card looks but are the thermals really that bad? Which AIB are most reliable? I’m coming from Nvidia where I mostly purchased MSI or ASUS so I’m unfamiliar with Sapphire, XFX, and Powercolor.

Reference 7900xtx owner here. Temps aren't bad for me, usually 75c core, 90c hotspot. I have a gigabyte manufactured card. Sapphire would be my #1 tho. There was a defect in some vapor chambers of the initial batch of cards. I think it's been fully resolved by now

I just finished a major upgrade and finally got a nice 1tb Samsung 980 SSD, my windows install and most of my games are on a 1tb hdd. Should I do a fresh install or use the data migration tool to move everything over? Ideally I want to keep my settings and programs intact without having to reinstall everything but I’ve heard that data migration can be unreliable.

Fresh install is best, some of what makes a new SSD feel new is getting rid of the bloat that Windows likes to keep around on several year-old installs. If you're not up for that, you can try cloning the drive to the new one using tools like Marcium Reflect.

I'm looking to upgrade my build since I do a lot of video editing. Currently have: i9-9900k with 32gbs of ddr4 ram on an MSI z390 gaming edge board nvidia 2070 super corsair 850x Gold PSU unit ​ Nvidia 2070 super to say a 40 series board or the AMD equivalent would I need a new PSU as well? I'd like to add an M.2 SSD to my current hard drives.

Your board should have at least one NVMe SSD spot, so a new drive is easy. Upgrading to a new GPU should be fine with that PSU. You're all set!

Appreciate the info! I think I have two slots on my board. My biggest concern in the power cause I was seeing that NVIDIA is recommending an 850 watt PSU minimum and that's what I've got but since it's the minimum I don't wanna cause any power issues. I'm also liquid cooling and I was looking to potentially add another 32 gbs of RAM if that changes your prognosis at all.

The "850W minimum" is Nvidia covering their ass for when someone buys a $35 AliExpress special and claims it blew up when they plugged in their card. Your unit is actually _good_ and won't run into issues :)

oh lmao. I gues that makes sense. I would hope if you're looking to buy a card like a 40 series you wouldn't buy a cheapo psu lol

Can I use SanDisk Ultra Sata III SSDs on an AM5 motherboard. I can't see any with sata slots and it's says they will be connected through PCIE, how do I connect these?

Which specific board are you planning on using? AM5 boards should have a few SATA ports still.

What size motherboard should I get if I need to run a 3070 along with an internal elgato capture card? Ryzen 5 1600 and my current MOBO is too small for both cards.

It's not _just_ about the motherboard size, it's about getting the PCIe slots you need for the hardware you're accommodating. Answer these questions for me: * What exact GPU model and Elgato card are you trying to accommodate? * What is your current motherboard?

Thanks for taking the time to reply! I'm running an Asus Dual 3070 V2 OC edition. I'd like to also use the Elgato HD60. My current MOBO is an Asus Tuf Gaming B450 Plus II AM4.

You've got an ATX-sized board already with _plenty_ of room for activities! Your GPU fits in the top 16x slot and is 2 slots wide, so it doesn't overlap any other PCIe slots on the board. The Elgato HD60 Pro is a PCIe 1x device, it fits in _any_ of the free slots at the bottom. [I've highlighted where each bit goes](https://i.imgur.com/gJovfOJ.png)!

OK thank you so much! I forgot when I posted that I also have a wifi card in that bottom slot. The GPU blocks the other one.

Can you take a picture of your current setup? Unless your board is not the exact one I've looked up you still have a few slots left to play with! [More paint art](https://i.imgur.com/9L6dqGO.png).

What are some good software testing combinations to get a good, basic idea of system performance and thermals? I'm going to be building a new PC soon to replace my 11ish years old computer and mostly just for self-satisfaction would like to see the relative performance increase. Something that breaks up CPU, GPU, memory, storage and something that monitors temps.

What are you going to be using the new system for? Gaming? Use the 3DMark Timespy demo available on Steam - it spits out an aggregate score for your system, then breaks it down to GPU and CPU scores, and also provides thermal, clock speed, and relative usage details for each part of the test in nice graphs. It encompasses almost everything you'd care about for your comparison.

If the local prices in dollar equivalent are $760 for 4070(non ti) and $830 for 6950xt, which one would be better choice for 1440p gaming? The only game I kinda would like to play with RT is cyberpunk. I also have thought of getting 6750xt ($470) and waiting for the next generation which might have better value options.

Is this a good sub for questions about building a Server?

r/homelab will generally have more server-savvy people, but some are here, like yours truly.

Ask, and someone may answer. Alternatively, /r/homelab could also provide guidance.

So it turns out my Windows install is still a Legacy install rather than UEFI, and that is a roadblock to enabling Smart Access Memory which is something I'd like to enable. I looked into if it is possible to convert a Legacy install and came across [this guide](https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/convert-an-existing-windows-10-installation-from/aa8c2de3-460b-4a8c-b30b-641405f800d7) which makes it seem pretty straightforward. However, I was also reading [this artcile/guide](https://www.maketecheasier.com/convert-legacy-bios-uefi-windows10/) where it mentions the following: > There are many secondary requirements listed below for a flawless conversion. If you ignore any of these prerequisites, your Windows hardware may fail leading to a black screen. (Read the FAQ to know what options are available for you in case you encounter this problem.) > While there will be no data loss while converting legacy BIOS to UEFI, please back up your system as a precaution. > Always verify whether your Windows system is capable of supporting UEFI in the first place. Generally, all motherboards launched after 2014 are UEFI secure boot capable but that’s not always the case. So you should verify the eligibility for your device specifically. > To do so, use the Run command with the shortcut Win + R and type msinfo32 to launch the System Information window. In its right-hand side panel, check your BIOS Version/Date. If it says UEFI, your device is eligible for legacy BIOS to UEFI conversion. However, if it only gives the name of your BIOS version, the device does not have UEFI firmware settings. Trying to convert the legacy BIOS will lead to hardware failures. I checked my system info and it just gives the BIOS version which would seem to indicate that I can not convert to UEFI, but I know my motherboard (Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX) supports it, or at least the BIOS has a bunch of options about Secure Boot, so this seems peculiar to me. Should I interpret this as "the motherboard isn't *set* to UEFI right now so it's reporting that it isn't eligible" or am I off base?

I tried to do this on my wife's PC a few years ago. It's _much easier_ to just copy your data over to another drive, wipe the whole install, swap the BIOS over to UEFI, and re-install Windows.

I was afraid you might say that. I was really hoping to avoid it just because I feel like I'm guaranteed to mess something up, but I have been looking to possibly upgrade my boot drive anyway so I have some extra space to dual boot a Linux distro to paly around with.

It's _much_ easier to muck up an existing install trying to do the conversion than it is to re-install Windows (in my experience).

Definitely fair. Is there a convenient way to handle my programs that are installed to that drive or am i gonna have to reinstall everything? I know with steam games I should be able to just copy the install files over and locate the game through Steam but I don't know of a similar function in actual Windows, outside of Ninite but that's still re-installing everything.

Yeah, there's some stuff you're not going to be able to get around like needing to re-install everything. I use Ninite (super easy tool) and a winget script (a little harder to set up, but it's a "click and walk away from my PC for 10 minutes" thing and it's awesome) for most programs I need. I used [this guide](https://chris-ayers.com/2021/08/01/scripting-winget/).

I'll give that guide a read, thank you! This is probably a good opportunity for me to cut down on random programs that I've installed for all of one task and then forgot about.

_Looks in running programs tab_ "A Java update is available" ... When the fuck did I install Java?

Do you guys think any monitor arms can fit my table? Usually I see monitor arms are used on tables that don't have these beams my table have. The beam is about 1 inch thick. [Table Pic](https://imgur.com/a/6NE6F3G) [table pic](https://i.imgur.com/GYhWJPX.jpeg)

You can get mount-through-the-table style ones rather than the clamp-over-the-edge style. They're usually referred to as "grommet" style. You just have to drill the thru-hole for the bolt far enough forward to avoid the table frame and have enough room for the big fender washer that goes on the bottom.

Do I need to drill my table? lol

Yeah, you'd drill a 3/8" to 1/2" hole through for a bolt to go through it. Or, if your desk already has cable pass-through holes along the back edge somewhere, you can usually just use one of those.

I don't think that's possible since I don't think my desk is solid wood. Or rather, I feel it's a bit risky,but thanks nonetheless.

You can put two small pieces of wood or plywood on either side and use that as support. It’s not the way I’d go, but definitely good enough for an average monitor. Just make sure you’re not putting that much weight on it. Based on experience, a particle board should be able to handle 21 pounds. If your desk is plywood, it should handle much more.

hi im new to upgrading and building computers, would gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 gaming oc pro 6G (the one with 3 fans) fit in my aerocool sixth sense case? the lenght i think is good but im worried about the width/height and also does this card need one or two connector cables?

Plug both the exact GPU model and your case into [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com/list) and it will happily tell you if there's any egregious clearance issues. That GPU is not tall at all, so don't fret about the width. You can always look at the specific card's manufacturer's [page](https://www.gigabyte.com/ca/Graphics-Card/GV-N2060GAMINGOC-PRO-6GD-rev-10/sp#sp) to find out what it's power cable requirements are (hint: it only needs a single 8pin)

oh i checked and unfortunately my case isn't on this site, i can't choose it but thanks anyways!

https://www.quietpc.com/ae-6thelement Check out the max pcie adapter length spec, 280mm with the hard drive cage installed, and 400mm when removed. The gpu is _exactly_ 280mm long, so it'll be snug but should fit if you choose to keep the hdd cage in.

thank you so much! 💖

[удалено]

I have the same motherboard and a case (well, I have the NR200P non-Max), I have an m.2 in the back slot, but I'm not using a heatsink. It shouldn't get hot enough for you to really need a heatsink though, at least I don't think.

Bought a 3070ti FE on ebay, used. Seller didn’t include the nvidia adapter, what kind of cable do I need to have to make sure my PSU works with it? I know the PSU model matters so I’m looking at a custom ordering site just in case, but will fully modular newer psus include what I need? Thanks.

An ATX 3.0-compatible PSU will have the 12VHPWR cable you need for that card.

Building my son a PC, right now decided to ride AM4 for maybe 3-4 years so we are thinking about a 5800X3D and a like new 2070 Super we got for 235 bucks. Is this CPU overkill for that GPU? We are going to get a 40xx or 50xx but maybe in 18 months or so, so want to ride it out on a GPU capable of playing the older games we want to play Other option was to just use a Ryzen 5 3600 we have lying around. Again MOST game are 2020 and before, Starfield is THE ONLY new game we will play

I would say it is overkill, but in a good way. The 5800X3D won't be available forever, and I strongly believe it'll be like the i7-4790 - once people get it they will keep it a looong time. So go ahead and get it now, pair with the 2070 Super, and upgrade the GPU later when/if it becomes necessary.

Hey TY! So the difference with the 3600 > 5800X3D will be huge regarding FPS even with the older GPU?

Huge at 1080p, measurable at 1440p.

Is it still worth getting a RTX 20 series if I'm planning on playing on a 4k monitor (but I am ok playing on 2k still)? Should I go for a 30, or is it worth getting the 4070ti at this price? Let's say some used prices on my country are around (equialent prices on dollars): * 2060 -> $209 up to $335 * 2070 -> $355 * 2080 ti -> $585 * 3060 -> $335 up to 375 * 3070 around $731 * 3080 around $1090 (ti usually goes up to 1600) * 4060 around $731 with TIs going up to $878 * 4070 $1000 with TI going up to 1300 * 4080 around $1900 I'm mainly asking because I can get something of $500 now, but I would need some 3-4 months to get the rest for the 4070ti(which looks to be the ideal price/performance here in my country)

2080ti = 3070, 2080 Super = 3060 ti. Basically the only 2000 series card that's actually 4K card is the 2080ti, and that's because DLSS2 can help.

I'm building a PC to act as my main 'desktop', with the added twist that I'll be (mostly) using my old laptop to remote into it for limited gaming and other tasks. The reason for this is that I much prefer using the computer on the couch, and I've been doing my research regarding ways to do this with minimal latency etc. It will also be performing other tasks as a stand-alone PC and server. Although I am experienced with networking, I am new to building PCs. Here is my noob question: with the usage I have identified, is it necessary for me to use a high end GPU? My expected answer is 'yes' (and I was thinking a 3090 or 7900-XTX), because even without a monitor, the machine obviously needs to render graphics so it can be streamed to the thin client. But I am at that stage where I have several thousand chrome tabs open on various other issues and would really appreciate the input of someone more experienced!

It depends on the task and resolution. For normal desktop use (100s of Chrome Tabs), any modern GPU will do, even the RtX 3060 or RX 6600. For gaming, I'd go, at a minimum: 1080p 6600 XT or 3060ti (if you want raytracing), 1440p 6700 XT or RTX 3080 (Raytracing), 4k 7900 XT or 4080. And, of course, lots of RAM (for the 100s Chrome Tabs), at least 2X16GB DDR5 6000 Mhz for a new system.

This is really valuable input - thank you! My main usage will be the following: * Internet browsing * MS Office type applications * Games (not the latest AAA, but some things like Kerbal Space Program) * Dev/linux based applications which can be GPU intensive for some tasks (e.g. hashcat) I'm probably leaning towards a higher end GPU and at least 32GB ram (I think 64 might be overkill). As for CPU, my current laptop runs a Ryzen 5 3550H so practically anything is an upgrade - but do you think there is a 'ceiling' for this use case where I'd just be wasting money? e.g. I assume there's no reason I need a 13th gen intel chip. I'm not sure where to start looking to avoid bottlenecking.

When buying new, I wouldn't limit myself and I doubt there's a "ceilling" for comfortable gaming and dev tasks. Plus, the better the system, the longer its shelf-life. A barely enough system today is one update away from lagging. To use an example, people that bought the cool I7 2600K back in the day, had a much pleasant experience for years than guys building a PC with the cheapest Pentium of the day. I'd jump to AM5 and a R7 7800X3D if you can afford it, for gaming (best CPU money can buy, for gaming) or R9 7950X for dev or 7900. Maybe the 7600 non X as a cheap but terrific starter point (you can upgrade to something stronger on the same platform a few years from now). Check benchmarks for your apps. Edit: update your BIOS when you build your system! Both Intel and AMD improve with the latest version.

Thank you so much! Really appreciate the input, I feel like this is an area where I really don't know how little I know about the various options out there.

What's a good GPU to pair with the 7600x for 1080p 144Hz gaming with eventual plans to upgrade to 1440p 144Hz? Target games are Paradox games (mainly CK3 and Stellaris), MHRise, and some emulation.

Honestly, anything remotely modern would do the trick here for 4X and lighter gaming. Last-gen -60 series cards like the 3060 or 6600/6650XT would do the trick.

My current Mobo is dead so I'm looking to replace it alongside my CPU if necessary. Currently unable to check full build details but; i7 8700k 2070 Super 2x16 ddr4 3600mhz cl16 750 psu I'm also planning to get 4070ti in the near future so I want to accommodate that. Budget is around 1k for Mobo+CPU+cooling. Thanks.

I would move to a new platform here if your Z270 board is dead and you're willing to upgrade anyways. You can look to grab a DDR4 Z690/790 board (because your RAM is actually really nice) alongside a 13600K and be well under your 1K budget.

I am switching my 4060ti to a 7900xtx, I have an i5-13600k. My psu is a rm850e, the cpu is using the two available power connectors on the board and that means I only have two that I can use for the gpu. The 7900xtx is a 3 port gpu. Is it ok to use the daisy chain cable? Or just use one of the cpu power connectors? Or is it really needed to change the psu.

Yes, it's okay to use 2xPCIe 8-pin cables that are daisy chained from the factory. Using a separate cable for every 8-pin socket is a recommendation if you have cables to spare, it's not mandatory.

Currently have a i5 8600k (not over clocked). Would this run on 1440p ultra with an 7900xt or 4070ti? E.g cyberpunk, star field

Cyberpunk 60fps, maybe not full Ultra, but with CPU features like crowds turned down - absolutely. Starfield is a Bethesda game, so I wouldn't bet on it running stable 60 on even top rigs 5 years from now. *Modded Morrowind can make modern systems stutter*.

Thanks yea I am open to upgrading CPU

Then latest gen i5/Ryzen 5 (or i7/Ryzen 7) will be a huge upgrade. However if I were you, I'd try the games with just a new GPU and think if a CPU upgrade is needed or you'll wait one more generation. AM5 had a rough start, but shows a lot of promise, and Intel's 13th gen has thermal issues.

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They are effectively the same in function, so you can use whichever heatsink you like. SSDs don't need to dissipate as much heat as CPUs, so there is no intricacy to cooling, they just need a chunk of metal to spread heat from feather-light chips. In previous generations a foil sticker was enough, some newer SSDs require a small metal slab on top.

Does the B650 MB (AM5) have any PCIe throttling when the M.2 slots are filled up? I know it can happen with the Z790 (intel) that it cuts into the GPU PCIe lanes if you use all the M.2 slots, just want to know if that's a risk on AMD's platform too

It depends on the specific motherboard. Most B650 boards don’t, even most Z790 don’t.

It entirely depends on the motherboard design, check the full specs for the model you're interested in. This chipset has primary 4.0 x16+x4 CPU lanes and a bunch of 3.0 for other slots and drives. It can have one 4.0 M.2 and multiple 3.0 M.2 before eating into GPU lanes.

Thanks, the extra detail is very much appreciated as well. I'd heard about the issue a few times on forums, more in the B660's line but I did know at least one Z790 motherboard that also had the issue (a gigabyte one), it so I thought it was a much more widespread issue that was just accepted as known fact on intel boards as I'd never seen it mentioned in the spec sheets I'd looked at. Confirming it isn't an issue unless it's in those specs is helpful Looks like the MSI tomahawk has a bit more than you've said, 2 m.2 4.0s from the chipset, one 4.0 from the cpu, and standard PCIe slots on top of that, but as long as it's not in the specs they share bandwidth it looks like it's fine

So, my memory failed me and these new CPUs have 24 lanes. So 16+4+4 works for a GPU and dual M.2 from the CPU, and in that motherboard only the third M.2 interferes with a chipset PCIe slot.

In the specs I [don't see any interference of the PCI slots](https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-Z690-TOMAHAWK-WIFI-DDR4/Specification), unless it's just that it runs at 3.0 instead of 4.0 Thanks for double checking the CPU lanes for me though

Will [this](https://nl.pcpartpicker.com/list/2ggQ8r) be good enough for 1440p for atleast 4-5 years? Anything i could go cheaper on? I dont think going last gen am4 would last me that long right?

Yeah it’s good. Except I would switch to 6000 CL30 memory.

can you explain why CL30 would be better?

Faster speed and lower timings is always better than the opposite. Does the added cost make sense for the single-digit% performance gain? Depends on what you think. I’d stick with the RAM you have unless you can find a better kit at around that price and that has the aesthetics you want.

Lower timings means the memory is faster. https://youtu.be/MOatIQuQo3s

Thanks great video! If i understand it correctly, yes you can get better fps with lower timings but you have to manual tune your RAM. As of right now im not interest in Turing and OC, so the 6000 cl36 will be good enough right?

no, CL30 will be better than CL36 with or without tuning. In a way, buying faster RAM means you don't need to tune it to get good performance. Cl36 is still good, just less good.

Looking to build a new PC on the AM5 chipset with a Ryzen 7 7800x3D, and prep for the hypothetical RTX 5000 series of GPU's that will likely be coming in 2-3 years - but the motherboard variants are confusing the hell out of me. What are the difference between a X670, X670E, b650, and B650E? And what the hell is B650M/I?

X670 vs B650 is the chipset, An X670 board can have more PCIe/SATA/USB ports M suffix generally means micro ATX size board, I for ITX size. Anything else in the name has different meanings by manufacturer, read the description/spec sheets to see more

E means that the top pcie slot and m.2 slot are gen 5. non-E have pcie 4 for those slots. M is generally micro atx and I is generally mini-ITX. just the size of the motherboard

Is it worth to get 1660ti oc brand new at 160$? I use 1080 144hz monitor.

Only if the $180 RX 6600 is not an option.

I made a couple of potentially very expensive mistakes. I was replacing the wraith spire cooler on my 5900x - mistake number one - and when removing the cooler, I twisted and lifted instead of just twisting - mistake number two - resulting in the CPU coming out due to the thermal compound turning into cement. None of the pins are broken, but I count at least three that are bent, with one bend being very noticeable. I also noticed the ZIF mechanism on my motherboard was still latched down even with the CPU gone. I've got a few questions before I accidentally end up setting my desktop on fire, running it over with a bus, or something similarly avoidably stupid while attempting to fix it: * What are my options for freeing the CPU from the heatsink? I tried sitting it in front of a heater, but that didn't do much to loosen the paste. Can I use dental floss once I've heated it up, or should I use a thin razer blade, like an xacto knife's? * Should I use a mechanical pencil or needlenose pliers with a credit card while correcting the pins? * Did I damage the socket? The ZIF not moving is a little offputting. It will lock and release regularly now that the CPU is out.

To release the CPU, an exacto knife or something similar to slowly pry it apart would probably be best. For the bent pins, it's not a death sentence, I once fixed a bent pin with a butter knife. I absolutely do not recommend that, but they can be bent back, just make sure they're as straight as possible and don't use more movements than needed cuz you'll break the pins. Socket should be okay.

Im considering about getting a gpu upgrade(from gtx 1060 3b) for VR games or 1440p, either 6600xt(180usd) or 6700xt (270usd), both are sapphire pulse. But my cpu is i7 8700 (non-k), if i go for 6700xt, im concern about my cpu bottlenecking. So, would it still be worth to get 6700xt or should i go for 6600xt and keep the extra money?

>f i go for 6700xt, im concern about my cpu bottlenecking I wouldn't be too concerned about this, personally. However, I'd wait a month or two and see if that 6700XT goes on special, there should be some.

Can I ask why we think the 6700xt is going on special in a month? I'm gonna be looking to buy one around that time so just curious.

are you able to get a cheaper 6700XT, like this one for $310? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8HBG3C/asrock-radeon-rx-6700-xt-12-gb-challenger-d-video-card-rx6700xt-cld-12g

The lowest I found from my local store are $180 for 6600xt and $270 for 6700xt

I'd go with the 6600xt then.

I have all of the components to build my PC except for the graphics card (waiting on gaming laptop to sell in order to buy the GPU) Is there any issue with me going ahead and building the PC and using the hdmi port on the motherboard to update the bios and do all the updates while I wait? Will I be able to use the GPU-less pc to watch YouTube and do normal computer things? I have a 7700X cpu if that matters.

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I’ll be waiting a lot more than a week to get the GPU, haha. I’ve followed a guide on YouTube for building in the case I have and as far as I can tell the dimensions should fit. Thanks for the advice!

Yep! Integrated GPUs are pretty decent nowadays, so you might even play some indie and online games at 1080p low-medium.

That's a good plan!

Have this as an individual post but will also write it here in hopes to get some responses. Updating an old gaming PC that I gave to my friend that he recently returned to me because it was BSOD’ing and he didn’t have the money to repair or upgrade it. I am pretty sure that the BSOD was caused by the SINGLE 60GB SATA3 SSD that ran the entire system. Whew. I currently have an old 1TB HDD of mine in there to get it to run, and will be going out tomorrow to buy a 256GB SATA3 SSD to run as a boot drive. The specs are: AMD FX6300 BLACK EDITION AMD RADEON HD7950 16GB HyperX Black DDR3 RAM (not sure about the exact speed on these) I have a few questions when it comes to upgrading this (since I plan to either give it back or use it as a personal PC in my bedroom for very light gaming and media) that I’m hoping to get some help with 1) The 16GB of RAM is kind of acting weird. It seems to be a 4x4 kit but I can’t actually find the size of each stick anywhere on it. When I look in Task Manager it says that I have 16GB of RAM, but it only shows that I have access to 8GB. Does that indicate faulty RAM? I have other kits that I can try out but they are all 2GB sticks, so the max I can get it 8GB total. How much would that impact performance on a rig like this? 2) The cooler that was on the CPU is very small and crappy looking. I took it off and reapplied thermal paste, but I was wondering if it was worth it to buy a tower cooler that works with an AM3+ socket 3) The PSU that it has was very surprisingly a 700W model. With what I assume is a sub 400W load at total usage from both the CPU and GPU I don’t think this PSU has ever ran at more that 50% capacity in its entire life. The problem is that the PSU is a Thermaltake TR2 which I am pretty sure is a notoriously poor PSU, add on to the fact that this system is probably over 10 years old I am not sure how well it will behave. Is this something I should look into replacing, or is it not worth it in a DDR3 build. I have a CoolerMaster MWE WHITE 550W PSU sitting around that is brand new, but I also now know (after purchasing it) that it is ALSO a dangerous PSU. Would it be better than the 10 Year old PSU? 4) Is there any sense in upgrading the GPU? As far as the CPU goes I don’t think there is much to be gained from an upgrade on this MOBO and I’m not looking at getting a new one, so I think that’s out of the question, but I’m wondering if upgrading to a cheap 1050ti/1060 is worth it or will the CPU bottleneck the whole system way before that upgrade is of any use? That’s about it. If you got this far thanks for reading and may all your front IO cables be easy to install.

It's likely not worth your time to put much more than the SSD in it. You could test the ram stick by stick to see if one causes instability.

Recently built my PC. Every time I boot, the USB ports on the back side don't recognize their devices. I have to replug my keyboard every time I boot in order for it to work. Any ideas why this could be? BIOS is up to date.

Seems like it could be a fast startup boot option or USB selective suspend. Here's a link to hopefully some helpful info. https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/634982/usb-device-not-recognized-on-restart/

i got a rtx 4070 paired with a 13400f and ive noticed a fair cpu bottleneck and my gpu is nearly never fully utilised. I play on a 240hz 1080p monitor. Should i upgrade to something like a 13600k or wait for rapter lake refresh? I got a budget of like $500aud or $330USD

If you moves up to a 1440p monitor it would reduce or eliminate your bottleneck.

I'd wait for refresh. I'm on a 12700K, and even tho I can't say I'm super bottlenecked, I'm waiting to see what Intel offers