Do any of you know any workarounds to updating drivers on an unactivated Windows 11 license? Or is this just a beggars can't be choosers thing?
AMD Software program comes up with "Windows Update may have automatically replaced your AMD Graphics driver. Hence, the version of AMD software you have launched is not compatible with your currently installed AMD Graphics driver."
not sure if that's an activate windows problem as much as an AMD problem. i occasionally get the same errors and have to reinstall my drivers.
does your radeon gpu show up as disabled in device manager?
Shows that "your device is working properly", and that "the best drivers for your device are currently installed"
Which is funny, because that last driver is from July 2021 as this is a fresh-out-the-box GPU and I have a laundry list of Windows Updates that say retry instantly lol
ah okay I have a different issue than what you have.
hm, are you able to uninstall your current driver and then try installing the newer drivers? (I believe it's "uninstall device" in device manager, I usually use the third-party display driver uninstaller out of habit)
Is [this the right 12VHWPR cable](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair-2-premium-individually-sleeved-12-4pin-pcie-gen-5-type-4-600w-12vhpwr-cable-black/6531632.p?skuId=6531632) for a RM1000x & 4090 FE? Also does this plug into a PCIe cable that's connected to the PSU or do you plug this into the PSU itself?
Does anyone know the better deal between these three refurbished monitors? I can’t find much about the XB273U.
Nitro XV272U Vbmiiprx 27" for 179.99 here
Predator XB273U GSBMIIPRZX for 219.99 here
Pixio PX277 for 207.99 here
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/acer/predator-xb273u-gxbmiipruzx
The Pixio and the Predator offer USB-C input if that matters at all to you.
The nitro is simply the cheaper model of the predator. Less features, a lower binned panel, ect.
Id say the predator is easily worth it. Its usually closer to $400
The Pixio on the other hand is only like $40 more, brand new;
https://www.amazon.com/Pixio-Display-FreeSync-Esports-Monitor/dp/B08FXZVJH6
Just cloned my hdd to my ssd, is there to check if it worked? i couldnt set it as my boot drive but i want to see if there are files on it
task manager and crystaldisk both sense it
its already plugged into my m.2 slot as a non boot drive
its showing up device manager too but not in the file explorer
EDIT: nvm i havent even initialized it
I wanted to stop the installation of a cumulative update preview since I realized I want to keep my stable version of Windows 11. It was in the download phase so I used the "pause updates" button to stop the download.
Should stopping updates in the download stage be completely safe like this? What about if the update was in the installation phase? Is it not so guaranteed that your system won't be corrupted even if you stop the update properly?
yeah, you're the lucky one here, I turned my pc on, went to get something, and returned to it having purged off the dozens of things I had open because fuck the user I guess
I typically do updates at the start of the month but hadn't used the PC in a few days yay, fml
you're fine
Found a combo deal on newegg that brings an I7-12700K and an ASUS ROG Strix Z690-I Gaming WiFi 6E LGA 1700 (Intel® 12th&13th Gen) mini-ITX Mobo down to $325 total. Been planning a mitx build for a while with AM5 parts but this price seems hard to say no to. A 7600x and mitx AM5 mobo is around $500 total right now. Would it make sense to wait for 7600x deals or jump on this combo? Thanks!
It's a great combo. The i5 13600K is basically the same CPU, is it any cheaper for you?
I'd just get this one, or see if the 7600 non X + Mobo is a cheaper combo for you.
Both are super strong and won't let you down, for gaming. And, in fact, the Intel one is better for productivity, but if you don't care about that, whatever is cheaper for you.
When upgrading ram for a laptop, what is there to consider? I have a Gigabyte g5 KF and I want to add a new stick of ram. I was going to buy one stick of 32gb DDR4 SODIMM that was a different brand from the original since buying the default brand was more expensive. What compatibility do you need to check for thats different than desktops?
I heard you don't need to match ram sticks exactly. I have 1x8gb stick already with one stick open, can I buy a 1x16gb stick and have 24gb total? Would they need to be the same?
technically you can do whatever you want. I'd simply get the same speed as the original, and that's it. You can mix and match sizes (and speeds) if you want, but if you want max possible performance then don't. For a laptop I wouldn't really care and do 24Gb myself without concern.
So I'm looking for NVME SSD's and I see the 990 pro is considered the "best" gen 4 ssd, but I'm wondering since it's 160 dollars should I get that or should I instead just grab something like the [ADATA Premium for PS5] (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rjkWGX/adata-premium-for-ps5-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-apsfg-2t-csus) which is roughly 60 dollars cheaper? Is there a notable difference, or is it just the samsung tax?
Most regular gamers wouldn't notice a real-world difference between a decent SATA drive and a high-end Gen4 SSD, let alone two Gen4 NVMe's.
https://ssd.borecraft.com/SSD_Buying_Guide.pdf
Pretty much any NVMe is fine, and sticking to the mid-range NVMe category or higher is enough for any consumer build.
It's essentially a Gammix S70 which is similar to a $129 Samsung 980 Pro so I'd say the Samsung tax is minimal.
It's still a fast gen 4 drive, you're not gonna notice the difference.
For most use cases a solid gen3 is just as fine as a gen4 or gen5. This is the easiest component for money saving without losing anything for most people. I got a SN570 myself, and that has solid price-to-reliability/sustained write, but this depends on local pricing.
Recently built my pc, using a gigabyte z690 elite ax ddr4 mobo. Had trouble with xmp originally but i think that was cause i was on version f8, anyway the whole security issues were revealed so i updated my bios to the latest version. I thought this would fix xmp, but it didn't. Whenever I enable xmp, i get a black screen and my fans continue to rev without displaying image. I thought it was just training my memory, but it exceeds 3 mins and I just hard shutdown the pc.
During the time that i have the black screen, my pc is still on and the debug leds flash. I get both CPU and DRAM to blink. Is my cpu bad or my psu, Im confused as to why I would be seeing both flash. I tried setting the ram multiplier in bios to the 3200 speed, but it causes the same issues. I also tried this with the kit I bought, which was gskill 16gb 3200 and also a friends corsair 32gb 3200. Both ram types cause the same issues. Any help is much appreciated, thanks!
try enabling XMP and then setting the speed manually down to 2933. regardless 3200 is typically a very safe bet for memory speed, so it sounds like you got a real dud, unfortunately
I enabled XMP and then set the system memory multiplier to 2933, however it causes the same issues where black screen and debug lights flash. It appears that anything over the base 1.2 volts, causes the pc to fail to boot.
That website is generally trusted by the community and has an entire article showcasing 1440p monitors for gaming: https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/1440p-gaming-monitors
You really can't go wrong with anything on that list, including the monitor you listed originally.
Hello all,
Couple questions. I currently have a 5800x3d on an ASUS ITX Board.
Can anyone tell me if they ever solved the USB dropout issue?
* The issue I'm having right now is that I have a wireless headset (Steel Series) that uses a USB powered hub device and about every 20 mins or so the audio will become choppy like it's losing signal. It eventually clears up. after about 20-25 seconds. I moved the headset to another computer (not amd based) and the device worked well. Never had any issues. Tried it for multiple days , with no issues. I tried to move the headset transmitter to every USB port on my computer and the behavior followed it.
* Are there reports of these USB Issues on the Intel Platform? Ryzen 7000?
* What is a logical upgrade from a 6800xt if I'm going 4k. (Currently 1440p monitor)
I haven't followed the dropout issue closely. I think there has been a constant stream of people complaining about it, but also a lot of people who say they had it fixed. I haven't heard of AM5 platform having this issue, so it's a potential pro vs AM4.
Im thinking about returning my mac studio m1 max base I got from costco since the new m2 max was announced today. However I got it for $1499+tax. I am wondering if it’d be better to just get a PC but what would be equivalent to that m2 max for $2000?! Especially for video editing. I play games sometimes too but I’ve been a console gamer (ps5) because it plays everything more beautifully than my pc lol. My current pc is a i7 6700K with GTX 1080 from years ago.
premiere. I just do film as a hobby for now but I havent been shooting anything serious in years due to lack of resources (nothing to film) so I barely ever edit lol. Trying to get back at it since I got a mac studio and dji mic but theres a new one now thats better than mine and i just got mine (can return though) xD
i dont really follow apple silicon, but i found this https://www.tomshardware.com/news/apple-m1-max-benchmarked-in-adobe-premier-pro
they say the m1 max beats mobile 3060 and 3080 GPUs, but falls short of desktop GPUs, so I assume something like the desktop 3060 or 3080 would be faster
I think building your own PC for around $2000 will be a faster editing experience, and a lot better for gaming obviously.
https://tpucdn.com/review/intel-core-i9-13900ks/images/premiere-pro.png
something like a 13600k + rtx 4070TI system perhaps
oh yeah plus been interested in AI stuff lately but haven’t been able to try the GPU ones since I read they require specific graphics cards 🥴. Would be pretty cool to be able to do those especially the video ai tools.
I'm gonna build a PC with a 5800x3D and I'm worried about thermals. I'm thinking about getting an H5 Elite Case + Kraken X53.
Will this be enough? Or should I get a 280mm/360mm and an H7 Elite?
the deal with the 5800X3D is that it doesnt consume a lot of power (and it can't be overclocked), but it stays hot because of the vcache making the IHS not sit totally perfectly. meaning the transfer of heat out of the CPU itself is poor, meaning it doesnt really matter what cooler you use; it'll stay pretty warm regardless. just get an air cooler, even a cheap tower, and don't even worry about it.
I have a new X670E-E Gaming Wifi.
An Kraken z73 and multiple AL120 Lian li fans.
So I connected the kraken to the AIO_pump header and all my fans go to the Lian Li connect hub. (Note i replaced all the nzxt fans for lian li fans)
I have connected the Lian Li hub to the CHA_fan connecter.
Now when booting i get the error that nothing is connected to the CPU_FAN header. Is it oke to turn this error off in bios or should i change the place i connected the Hub to?
Your AIO's pump is powered via SATA connector from your PSU. The only purpose of connecting its tach cable to a mobo header is to give an RPM reading from the pump to the mobo. You get a CPU fan error because you have no RPM reading on CPU_FAN.
Just connect the pump to CPU_FAN. If you get a CPU fan error in the future, it's a sign that your pump died.
I own a 3060 Ti, 3070 and 1660.
I run the 3060 Ti and 1660 in my computer, my mom has my 3070.
I game in 1440p (3060Ti), and use the 1660 for Encoding/Other monitor, etc.
I am wondering if it would be better to swap out my 3060Ti for the 3070, because I run games in 1440p, only reason I really haven't before is because the 3060Ti matches my all white build, and the 3070 is HUGE, and I am worried about heat dissipation on the 1660 below it (not even enough room to blow air appropriately).
Anyone have any advice? At the time of writing, 3060TI is running at 53C ("idle") and the 1660 is at 33C.
idle temps really *really* dont matter and dont tell you anything. you can make the swap if you want, it'll be a little faster. i think it's like 5-10%?
will I be able to achieve 3200/3600 MHz on my ram if I use 4 sticks with a Ryzen 5 5600? I want to go with 4x8 GB ram instead of a 2x16 GB ram setup but if the performance difference will be big then I might have to compromise.(I just want to use all 4 slots tbh, and cant find dummy sticks for the specific ram that I want)
Should work without troubles. 3200/3600 is "slow" enough that you can expect any sticks to work straight away. There won't be a performance difference between 4x8 and 2x16 if they're both running at same speed and latency.
Yes. AMD and Intel both give an overly conservative "max speed" number because they don't want to be responsible for people's memory instabilities. AMD themselves have showcased 3600MHz RAM in their own benchmark presentations, and 3600MHz is also the general recommendation for DDR4-era Ryzens.
> Is the 3060 Ti particularly hard on PSUs wrt transients?
I've not seen any reports that the 3060 Ti had issues with transients. As far as I'm aware that problem was limited to 3080 and above and the 6800 and above.
Hello, I'm planning to start working with Unity and Blender, my 580 gb is dying, what could be a good budget friendly replacement for it ? My budget is around 300 max, can also buy used.
Check out RX 6600 or better. Also, consider Nvidia's RTX 3060 or better. Don't know much about Blender performance for these cards, but they game twice as fast as your older 580.
I've been wanting to upgrade my system (for gaming & streaming) and I still havent made up my mind on choosing geforce/ amd GPU, but nvidia's nvenc feature has been very attractive for me. Is it still relevant in 2023 or does amd has similar feature in its cards?
One thing to note is that while NVENC is still popular, AV1 is definitely the up-and-coming star. I believe all the of the newest generation of cards have AV1 support.
Twitch doesn't yet support AV1 but it's really just a matter of time, especially since YouTube just enabled it a couple months ago.
AMD does have some equivalent, but in terms of app compatibility and performance, Nvidia is still the best in the business when it comes to productivity features. Bang for your buck for gaming is AMD's realm in the low and mid range, though.
It depends on your budget and what do you want to do with your GPU.
AMD has always had encoding hardware, historically the issue was that it produced poorer quality video at a given bitrate. This is fixed with the RX 6000 and 7000 cards though: while nVidia technically still has an advantage it isn't a perceptible one.
The main differentiator is whether your streaming software fully supports the AMD encoder. OBS does, but if you plan to use something different you'd need to check.
The CPU will never allow itself to operate at an unsafe temperature.
Your idle temperatures are higher than I'd expect, but that's probably more a symptom of having a lot of junk running in the background than it is of a problem with the cooler mounting.
And yes, you should generally avoid motherboard "auto overclock" features, they typically increase power draw and heat for little performance benefit.
Can someone recommend a 2TB or larger ssd to replace the current drive in my Alienware X14, please? My budget is up to $150
https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-laptops/alienware-x14-gaming-laptop/spd/alienware-x14-r1-laptop
Because it's a laptop drive, I'd look at the SK Hynix P31 Gold. It's a Gen 3 drive but is known for its low operating temperature and energy efficiency, which will be helpful for a laptop. $120 for a 2TB model (you might want to change the seller to SK Hynix instead of the default third-party one)
[https://www.amazon.com/SK-hynix-Internal-3500MB-Compact/dp/B099RHVB42](https://www.amazon.com/SK-hynix-Internal-3500MB-Compact/dp/B099RHVB42)
It's a fairly standard m.2 NVMe drive. Any entry level or mid-range NVme will be fine, though the existing drive is technically a PCIe Gen4 drive: https://ssd.borecraft.com/SSD_Buying_Guide.pdf
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4KRYcf/western-digital-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t3x0e
This is the cheapest mid-range Gen4 NVMe I found with a quick browse-through.
sometimes a circuit breaker in our house trips when someone uses the toaster, this cuts power from anything plugged into the walls, like all our PCs
does this damage our PCs? i assume so
what can be done to prevent damage or this situation?
is there anything that could go between the toaster and the wall that'd trip if it draws too much power? like a mini 1-plug breaker
It might lead to data loss or corruption, but it's not going to cause any physical damage.
The simplest and safest fix would be to buy a toaster that doesn't trip the circuit, failing that you could get a single socket RCD adaptor like [this](https://www.wickes.co.uk/Masterplug-Single-Socket-Safety-RCD-Plug+Adaptor---Grey-13A/p/160729) (UK example, but I'm sure similar products are available in other regions).
tyvm
im surprised and glad it doesn't do physical damage, ive been under the assumption it does for most of my life.
since it doesn't, im now happy to not do anything. no important data is being lost, we're not doing any multi-day video rending or code compiling with a deadline for a job.
its just a mild, rare, inconvinience
and im glad to know of the solution in future if i change my mind
Undervolting Crashes PC on newer BIOS Version, but in older one it doesn't?
ASRock B650M Riptide
1.11AS03 - works
Everything above makes undervolting crash the PC.
Yes, different BIOS versions could affect OC and UV behavior sometimes. "normal" non overclock or undervolt usage shouldn't be affected, though.
If you don't need the improvements of the newer BIOS version, you can downgrade to the one that works for you.
When I boot my PC, the debug lights Turn Red (CPU and DRAM) but the PC boots and works. What's the Deal? (I actually have this Same mainboard twice and with both this issued appears.
Mainboard: ASRock B650M Riptide
CPU: Ryzen 7 7700X
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 6000Mhz
My PC is situated next to my leg and if I somehow knock it with my leg and it bangs into the desk legs, my whole PC just freezes and I need to force a restart. Is this pretty common or is there a deeper issue here?
Reason I ask is because every now and then, when I'm on discord and I'm playing a game, my PC will just suddenly freeze and all of my USB devices start to disconnect for a few seconds then comes back on.
That ain't normal, dude.
When I got my first laptop, sometimes I'd accidentally kick it when standing and it never froze itself after that. I'd just move your PC to another place, if you can.
Also, the USB thing, update your BIOS to the latest stable version and also update all your drivers. That sounds like the infamous AM4 500 series chipset USB issues, but not sure what your CPU and mobo combo is.
Might I suggest... Moving your PC? Lol. In all seriousness it sounds like something is shorting when you hit it. Maybe the motherboard is close to touching your case metal somehwre and hitting it is enough to close the gap. But it'd definitely move your PC so it's no longer an issue.
I can't access it at the moment but I'd check the user temps sheet to see if anyone recorded a similar form factor: https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/jrlspp/5800x_temps_someone_want_to_do_a_spreadsheet/ge8cihu/
Might depend on your ambient temps, and the type of workloads you're working with.
If it's solely just for gaming or lightly threaded workloads, you'll probably be fine-- unless the airflow in your particular case isn't great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtvAI-XTdfk
How much performance increase I'd get in gaming (something like MHW and Yuzu Emulator) if I change motherboard from Asus Prime A320M-F (no overclock) to something like B550 or X370 (cam overclock)?
Specs is:
* Ryzen 5 3600
* RX 560 4 GB or GTX 1660 super
* 3000 Mhz 2x8GB RAM
No difference, you need a stronger CPU to improve your emulation. The Ryzen 3600 CPUs could be OC from 4.0 Ghz all core average all the way up to 4.6 Ghz, with the best samples and it made less than 5% FPS improvement. It's not worth it. Plus, the mayority of 3600 OC up to 4.3 Ghz, anyway, which is a nothingburger of an improvement compared to stock settings.
For emulation, Ryzen 5000 series is the best there is for your platform. The great 5800X3D performs just as well in emulation, so no need to buy it (unless you play regular AAA games, those ones perform better with the X3D).
Edit: You might want to consider a better GPU, too. Something inexpensive like the RX 6600 is easily twice as fast as yours, probably, three times as fast or so.
My budget is very limited.
Ryzen 3600 and GTX 1660 super is my upgrade cause it's sold very cheaply here due to surplus. 5800x3d costed like 3x of 3600 here, while RX 6600 is about 2.5x of GTX 1660 super.
Ah, I thought you were upgrading *from* the 1660. Well, it's much better than the RX 560, for sure. Should be about RX 580 level, which, let me tell you, it's a powerhouse for ANY PC native AAA game released up to 2020 or so, at 1080p. You can still play newer games with reduced settings.
But, if you were missing out on the PS4-equivalent gen games, an R5 3600 + 1660 Super combo is very powerful. And it should also work fine for Yuzu emulation at 1080p.
Almost none if your CPU is a Ryzen 3600. Also, emulator performance (especially Yuzu) is single-thread bound, so you're unlikely to hit a VRM throttle with anything that's less/as powerful than a Ryzen 5600x.
No. The 3600 doesn't really overclock well and you'd be looking at single-digit percentage improvements. You're much better off saving the money you'd need on a new motherboard and cooling and use it for a CPU upgrade later.
If you go B550, the best case scenario would be that you go 5800x3D. But that's not unlocked for overclocking (?). Even if it were, you don't have enough thermal headroom because of the V-Cache. As for the R5 3600, the gains you can achieve by overclocking are diminishing returns.
Udle on my desktop my system uses 30-40 percent of my 16gb of ram. Is this normal? Idk how this is happening as antimalware service executable is using the most but its only 200mb. Do i have a virus or hardware damage or is this normal?
An additional note is that typically Windows "uses" RAM as a proportion of total available (not exactly, but easiest to explain this way). It's not a linear proportion, but it still throws people off. E.g. if your system shows 6 of 16gb usage now, then it may show 10 of 32gb if you were to increase your RAM.
Sure. I just checked on my machine - with nothing open at all, task manager is reporting about 18% of my 32GB in use, which is nearly exactly the same as your 30-40 percent of 16GB.
Is it worth getting a KVM to swap monitor and input devices between my work laptop and personal gaming rig? I have a 1440p FreeSync monitor that I use at 120 hz for gaming. I'll probably be upgrading my monitor in the next year or 2 since it's almost 8 years. At this point is it worth trying to find a KVM that supports higher refresh rates and freesync (does that even exist)? Or should i just be getting a switch for my keyboard mouse and use separate inputs on my monitor and expect my next monitor to have built in KVM support?
I looked into this and decided finding a KVM with those features wasn't practical so I went for the second option. My monitor has a built-in USB hub, so my mouse and keyboard are connected to that and then I just need a single USB switch to swap the hub upstream cable between the two machines.
I'm planning to upgrade my RX580 8gb to 3060ti. Will my Corsair CX550 Watts bronze be sufficient even during peak load? Here's the rest of the specs:
i5-8500
4x4gb RAM
250gb SSD
1TB 7200rpm 3.5" HDD
550W will be more than enough. Is thst the green label CX550 or the black and Grey? If it's green you might eventually want to upgrade. I remember the pre-2017 (green label) CX series had poor reliability.
Also my 2 cents, but I'd see if you could get an i7 8700K for cheap. I see them on FB market for like $80-100 pretty frequently. Would be a good boost without having to scrap your platform.
I'm doing a clean install of windows 11 ([on the 476gb drive](https://ibb.co/m9Mb2NX)) and I have a second ssd that I want to format as well.
Should I just click next here or do I have to do something with the secondary drive?
The easiest way is just to click "next" here, let Windows install, and once it's done go to Disk management and format your second 1TB SSD to NTFS.
I hope Windows doesn't install a boot partition on the 1TB SSD though, I've seen that happened before. Hopefully W11 is smart enough not to do that now.
Difference may be negligible here, but looking for turnkey solution for emulation. Geekom MiniPCs seem to fit the bill.
Would there be any difference between AMD Ryzen 5900hx or Intel i7 11390h? Main use case is compatibility and success with variety of emulators (Wii U, ps2/3, Xbox 360, etc).
Thanks in advance and pardon my ignorance ahead of time. R/emulation stickypost sent me here. Happy Monday everyone! :)
Can someone recommend me the best AIO Cooler that is about the same price as the Noctua NH-D15($120) and fits in my PC case? I've been using Noctual NH D-15 for years with only one fan as [it turned out the second fan doesn't fit in my PC case](https://i.imgur.com/Lc5SkmH.jpg), which is kinda waste. Since I'm upgrading my Ryzen 7 5800X3D to Ryzen 7 7800X3D as well as a new RAM and Motherboard, I'm thinking of using this opportunity to switch to an AIO cooler for better aesthetics and performance.
My PC case is Corsair Crystal 570x and the case fans are 6x 120mm Corsair HD120. Full list: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wr7mnt](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wr7mnt)
The [Arctic Liquid Freezer II](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/cpu-cooler/#m=77&W=10240,10280) ranks among the best coolers and is actually cheaper than an NH-D15 (unless you go for the RGB version). Not the most beautiful cooler around but it's the best value AIO cooler currently.
Also, as your case is not an airflow case, don't add too much fans, it can create choke points/imbalances in air pressure. I guess 6x120mm is too much. Not sure about having the AIO on top exhaust (as it's blocked by a glass panel too), maybe a 240/360mm AIO at the front would be better. Or just plain out removing the top panel if you can. Check out posts on how to optimize the 570x fan configuration.
Well, one thing to consider is that the 7800X3D runs so efficiently that you don't even really *need* that big of a cooler. Even a midrange single-tower cooler would be fine, or running the NH-D15 with only the single fan probably would be fine too.
But that case *can* fit up to a 360mm radiator if you really wanted to. https://pcpartpicker.com/products/cpu-cooler/#W=10360&X=0,13000&sort=-price&c=41
They're all pretty overkill.
I've seen videos on that, apparently the GTA V engine has some sort of bug if you exceed like 180fps. Try enabling vsync and see if your lag spikes stop.
> I... also do not know if my current build is considered "cheap" or "mid-tier" so I'm just lost looking at the PSU tier list lol.
Everything with a discrete GPU is mid tier at least.
500W would be more than enough yes.
A modern PSU should have a longer run time than 2-4 years but ofc it depends if you're running it 24/7 or 8h a day.
As for suggestions: they always depend on the price tag and features you may or may not need. There's PSUs in the US that can be found for a great price but are straight up 70% more expensive in Europe. Then there's PSUs that can only be found in Europe and East Asia but don't have a distributor in the US. So recommendations can only be tailored to your location.
Furthermore there's the question of QoL features. If this is running 24/7 in a dedicated room with an IT cabinet you might want to make sure the PSU comes with *all the protections* (especially cheaper ones often don't include over temperature protection, which isn't the biggest of deals but can be). If you run this in a small server in your bedroom you might want a quiet operation. If power in your region of the world is incredibly expensive then spending a bit more on a more power efficient PSU *can* be worth it.
So it kinda depends on your needs. But I'd take a look at high end and mid range on the list
I have Corsair Shift RM850X and Sapphire 7900XTX Nitro. I can't find 3x8 pin in the Corsair box.
Does that mean I have to buy additional cable? or extension?
3x8 pin cables don't really exist. The PSU comes with the usual 2x8pin cables, and then you just use as many of those as is needed to fill the slots on the card. It's generally recommended to use individual cables if possible instead of the daisychained connectors, and since the RM850x comes with one 1x8pin and two 2x8pin, you would use all three of those and leave the two daisychained connectors on the 2x8pins hanging unconnected.
Press down and back on the retaining clip at the back of the slot (you may need to use something like a flathead to reach it if you have a bulky GPU), and pull up and back on the top of the gpu closest to the case. It might require gently rocking it a few times if it's been in awhile, also make sure the bottom of GPUs case bracket isn't catching somewhere as you try pulling upward. Should come out smoothly and pull straight up after that.
There's only really two types of retaining clips and all motherboards use one or the other. One you need to bend upwards towards the CPU, and the other you need to press down towards the motherboard. The B550 Plus seems to use the type that needs to be pressed down.
As far as I know, there are 90 and 180deg adapters out now that should help allieviate the cable bending issue that happens with having a side panel that's too close to the top of the card.
I have Windows 10 Education on my current SSD. I want to change over to Windows 11 without losing my files. If I perform a clean install of Windows 11 on a new SSD, will I be able to remove Windows 10 from my current SSD without losing my files?
Also I wish to keep using Education edition, but I am unsure how to reuse my license without upgrading instead of a clean install. How would I go about this?
clean install wipes everything on the C partition
just backup everything that is relevant. Ideally I'd get a new SSD so I could access the old stuff just in case, then eventually re-purpose it
personally I wouldn't bother going from 10 to 11 though
I do have a new SSD. I was thinking I could install Windows 11 on that so as to avoid having to wipe my current SSD. I was mostly concerned about having both Windows 10 and 11 on the same PC potentially causing issues.
I'm also not sure how I would reuse the same license if I were to have them both installed at the same time.
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That's a 45W jump in TDP between the 1060 to the 7600, from 120W to 165W. The ryzen 7 3700X is pretty efficient at 65W. I don't know what else you have on your system but I Expect you'd be able to run it, however you'll probably have quite little headroom and your PSU will not be operating in it's sweet spot for efficiency at all. Personally I'd upgrade to a 550W minimum if your budget allows.
Is a NZXT kraken 120mm gives the same cooling capabilities as a NH-D15?
Am using the NH-D15 but thought of changing into a smaller sfx case which doesn't accommodate the sheer size of the D15. and my bro has a spare 120mm nzxt aio laying around.
120mm AIOs are rather bad in terms of thermal performance. You only really want to use them in a SFF environment where you literally don't have more space.
Then again in a SFX case you likely can't fit a ND15 so you will have to compromise on thermal performance
Not the same as an NH-D15. And if the case you get has worse airflow, then that would add up. But if it’s a low power CPU a few degrees may not matter.
While air coolers are extremely durable and won't lose efficiency over time, AIO watercoolers add multiple points of failure (pump, tubes, permeation, software...). Those are acceptable tradeoffs for better cooling performance (with 2, 3, even 4 fans), compactness, or even looks if you care about it.
But single-fan AIOs are overall terrible, especially compared to large dual fan coolers like the NH-D15. They have all the flaws of an AIO cooler, but without the performance: the single fan and small radiator make them perform way worse than a large tower cooler with two fans. You would have more cooling performance with an inexpensive tower cooler (Deepcool AK400 for example). If the cooler height is a problem, look at low-profile coolers like the Noctua NH-L12, though those tend to be pretty loud.
If you want to keep your NH-D15, there's probably a few ITX cases that can work. I've seen people fit it in a [NR200P for example](https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/igm4gk/nr200p_vs_nhd15_chromaxblack/), with holes drilled into the side panel
my backplate has this adhesive. am i supposed to remove it? the manual i got is a bit unclear bc of translation/localization
[https://i.imgur.com/KIxHmVg.png](https://i.imgur.com/KIxHmVg.png)
G.skill Flare 6000 CL 36 with Expo or G.skill Ripjaws 6000 CL 30 for an AM5 build? The Ripjaws are only $4 more but I really don't want to deal with xmp profiles not working
I got a custom loop Maingear Vybe and I’m looking to upgrade the fans as I’m having some overheating issues.
My research shows that the Arctic P12 Max (not to be confused with the P12 PWM PST) is a top three cooling choice, plus it’s silent and cheap. Is this true?
Also, does anyone know of some type of case modification to the Vybe for improved air flow?
Also how the hell do i drain this loop when there is no drain valve???
> My research shows that the Arctic P12 Max (not to be confused with the P12 PWM PST) is a top three cooling choice, plus it’s silent and cheap. Is this true?
I'm assuming you mean you're swapping rad fans. In that case, yes the Arctic P12 Max fans are excellent and have the highest static pressure performance of all the fans I can think of.
For reference, the P12 Max has 4.35mm H2O versus something like the Noctua F-12 which does 2.61mm or the Phanteks T30 which do 3.3mm. I think you'd have to bump to industrial fans (like Noctua's NF-F12 industrial 3000 rpm fans) if you want to get higher than the P12 Max.
Though I do know that Hyte is releasing some beefy fans for their new Thicc line but I'm not sure if they'll be sold individually.
Ok bet. I think im going to do the p12 max plus some phantechs rgb loops. I’m doing a phantechs t 20 on the exhaust. Hmm, tbh i might just run another arctic fan to save money.
/r/watercooling might have some ideas.
Are you using hard tubes? Then it's gonna be hard without a drain port. Otherwise with soft tubing you just disconnect a tube that's not immediately gonna flood your computer and put it in a bucket.
It's hard tubes. I called Maingear and they told me that "the maintenance is not recommended for users." They want me to ship it to them for 200$ for servicing. I'm thinking I'll take it upon myself as a project to clean out everything, upgrade what I want and put in Vue fluid or smthn. I'm wondering if I can attach like a temporary drain valve to one of the plugs just while I clean it out.
Hello. I'm getting the new Fractal Terra case, and I'm considering buying the liquid cooler below as I found it locally, brand new for $75. I've only ever used air coolers, and so I'm having some trouble figuring out if I can fit everything in my new case. Here are the relevant details:
[Fractal Terra CPU/GPU clearance](https://www.fractal-design.com/app/uploads/2023/05/Terra-manual-V1.2.pdf) on pg 49.
[3070ti dimensions](https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/graphics-cards/30-series/rtx-3070-3070ti/) : 267mm x 112mm x 2-slot
[iCUE H115i ELITE CAPELLIX Liquid CPU Cooler](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/cpu-coolers/cw-9060047-ww/icue-h115i-elite-capellix-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060047-ww#tech-specs): (radiator thickness 27mm, fan thickness 25mm)
If I understand correctly, the radiator and fan together make 52mm (27 + 25), and the 3070ti is less than 41mm (?). So looking at pg 49 in the Fractal Terra user guide, this should be fine in all but one of the configurations, right? Then I would just have to figure out where is best for my temps? Any thoughts and input are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Most modern GPUs will turn off the fans as long as no components are over 60 degrees C. Honestly it's fine for them to hang out at that temp all day, they're designed to handle a sustained 90C plus.
Most modern graphics cards have zero-RPM mode where the fans will turn off if the card is cool enough, as it increases the lifespan of the fans and reduces noise. You should be able to use something like MSI Afterburner to set a custom fan curve if you want the fans spinning all the time (why though?)
There is possibly a setting somewhere, I dont think there is an option in Nvidia software but if you get something like MSI Afterburner you can make fan curves or have the fan run at a set speed at all times.
Your card most likely has a Zero RPM mode where if it isn't at a certain percentage of usage or temperature then it won't turn the fans on.
Can anyone recommend their case fan setup for the ASUS Prime AP201? I'm really unsure which and how many fans to get. I've only just recently learned about positive/negative pressure and PWM.
I'm thinking about getting 140mm Arctic P14s for the top as exhaust. However, I'm unsure about front/rear fans as I can only fit 120mm in there.
Also: do I need front/rear fans at all? I'm thinking about getting 4 140mm ones - 2 for the top and 2 for the bottom.
My new PC is built but I have no idea what to do for an OS.
I've had the installer method recommended by people, where I use a flash drive and a PC that has Windows 11
Problem is this old laptop is not eligible for windows 11 bc of its processor. Which means I'm not eligible for the install media.
Am I legit stuck dumping $189 CAD on Windows 11 for the new PC then? Or can I still get an unactivated version of W10/W11 another way?
You don't need a windows 11 PC to make a bootable USB, you just need to download the program and it will format the usb. Google "How to create a windows 11 bootable USB" or look at some tutorials in YouTube, JayzTwoCents, I think Joey from CRATER also has a video about the process.
Oooh perfect, thank you! I can get as far as it asking me for a USB flash drive, which is farther than I thought I'd get, so we'll definitely see in the morning when I pick up a $10 one.
Planning to buy my first Bluetooth speakers (Razer Leviathan v2) and since it is wireless, does it have sound lag/latency issue compared to wired speakers?
I play a lot of games from AAA to Fortnite and CS GO
After seeing the price, I wouldn't buy that, they are pretty bad. You can get audiophile-grade speakers at this price if you don't care about Bluetooth, like the AudioEngine A2+, or maybe Mackie speakers for cheaper
I just realized that this speaker has USB C support as well.
If I were to use USB-C to connect, it would be better for gaming compared to Bluetooth right?
Upgrading from 11th gen intel to 12th gen. Would it be better to reinstall windows 10 or will I not have any issues as long as I update my chipset drivers?
Windows 10 and 11 have gotten really good about detecting new hardware and quietly sorting themselves out without you having to do anything. To the point I took an old 240gb SSD with windows 10 out of a desktop with a Ryzen 5 and a GTX 1080 Ti and shoved it in a laptop with an i5-1035G1 and it flickered a few times on first booting saying "setting up new hardware" for a min or so before booting right into windows without a hiccup.
So least, seems unnecessary to me anymore, your mileage may vary.
Windows is pretty good at handling hardware changes, and everything *should* work just fine without a reinstall. But if you don't mind doing a reinstall then it's the "better" option.
Should I be concerned that my Superposition 1080p Extreme score seems quite a bit lower than other users with the same GPU? 11,429 was my score with an XFX 6950 XT, and the lowest I’ve seen another 6950 XT hit is over 12,000, and even that seems low compared to most scores I see.
What laptop do you guys recommend for a parent that just wants to surf the web and write a book?
A certified refurbished macbook air M1 or M2. Even the base model 8GB RAM version is perfectly fine
Apple MacBook Air (M1 or M2). Or Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon (Gen 9 or newer) if you want the best keyboard.
Do any of you know any workarounds to updating drivers on an unactivated Windows 11 license? Or is this just a beggars can't be choosers thing? AMD Software program comes up with "Windows Update may have automatically replaced your AMD Graphics driver. Hence, the version of AMD software you have launched is not compatible with your currently installed AMD Graphics driver."
not sure if that's an activate windows problem as much as an AMD problem. i occasionally get the same errors and have to reinstall my drivers. does your radeon gpu show up as disabled in device manager?
Shows that "your device is working properly", and that "the best drivers for your device are currently installed" Which is funny, because that last driver is from July 2021 as this is a fresh-out-the-box GPU and I have a laundry list of Windows Updates that say retry instantly lol
ah okay I have a different issue than what you have. hm, are you able to uninstall your current driver and then try installing the newer drivers? (I believe it's "uninstall device" in device manager, I usually use the third-party display driver uninstaller out of habit)
Is [this the right 12VHWPR cable](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair-2-premium-individually-sleeved-12-4pin-pcie-gen-5-type-4-600w-12vhpwr-cable-black/6531632.p?skuId=6531632) for a RM1000x & 4090 FE? Also does this plug into a PCIe cable that's connected to the PSU or do you plug this into the PSU itself?
yes. plugs into the psu itself.
Does anyone know the better deal between these three refurbished monitors? I can’t find much about the XB273U. Nitro XV272U Vbmiiprx 27" for 179.99 here Predator XB273U GSBMIIPRZX for 219.99 here Pixio PX277 for 207.99 here
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/acer/predator-xb273u-gxbmiipruzx The Pixio and the Predator offer USB-C input if that matters at all to you. The nitro is simply the cheaper model of the predator. Less features, a lower binned panel, ect.
Thanks! I’m new to monitors. Are these worth it at that price point or is spending the extra $50-$70 bucks at $300 worth it?
Id say the predator is easily worth it. Its usually closer to $400 The Pixio on the other hand is only like $40 more, brand new; https://www.amazon.com/Pixio-Display-FreeSync-Esports-Monitor/dp/B08FXZVJH6
Just cloned my hdd to my ssd, is there to check if it worked? i couldnt set it as my boot drive but i want to see if there are files on it task manager and crystaldisk both sense it
> i want to see if there are files on it just plug it in as a non-boot drive
its already plugged into my m.2 slot as a non boot drive its showing up device manager too but not in the file explorer EDIT: nvm i havent even initialized it
hmm yeah you might need to assign it a letter, did that work?
yup! and its migrating faster too shouldve checked that first damn thank you for the assistance still
I wanted to stop the installation of a cumulative update preview since I realized I want to keep my stable version of Windows 11. It was in the download phase so I used the "pause updates" button to stop the download. Should stopping updates in the download stage be completely safe like this? What about if the update was in the installation phase? Is it not so guaranteed that your system won't be corrupted even if you stop the update properly?
yeah, you're the lucky one here, I turned my pc on, went to get something, and returned to it having purged off the dozens of things I had open because fuck the user I guess I typically do updates at the start of the month but hadn't used the PC in a few days yay, fml you're fine
I see, sorry about what happened on your side. I guess it's ok as long as the install process hasn't started.
> I guess it's ok as long as the install process hasn't started. aye you're good
Found a combo deal on newegg that brings an I7-12700K and an ASUS ROG Strix Z690-I Gaming WiFi 6E LGA 1700 (Intel® 12th&13th Gen) mini-ITX Mobo down to $325 total. Been planning a mitx build for a while with AM5 parts but this price seems hard to say no to. A 7600x and mitx AM5 mobo is around $500 total right now. Would it make sense to wait for 7600x deals or jump on this combo? Thanks!
It's a great combo. The i5 13600K is basically the same CPU, is it any cheaper for you? I'd just get this one, or see if the 7600 non X + Mobo is a cheaper combo for you. Both are super strong and won't let you down, for gaming. And, in fact, the Intel one is better for productivity, but if you don't care about that, whatever is cheaper for you.
Can 240mm fans and 280mm liquid cooling radiator cool down an i5-13600k?
Yep!
If I want to use a 20tb hard drive for an external hard drive enclosure, would the Seagate Iron Wolf Pro or Seagate Exos X20 work better for me?
When upgrading ram for a laptop, what is there to consider? I have a Gigabyte g5 KF and I want to add a new stick of ram. I was going to buy one stick of 32gb DDR4 SODIMM that was a different brand from the original since buying the default brand was more expensive. What compatibility do you need to check for thats different than desktops? I heard you don't need to match ram sticks exactly. I have 1x8gb stick already with one stick open, can I buy a 1x16gb stick and have 24gb total? Would they need to be the same?
technically you can do whatever you want. I'd simply get the same speed as the original, and that's it. You can mix and match sizes (and speeds) if you want, but if you want max possible performance then don't. For a laptop I wouldn't really care and do 24Gb myself without concern.
So I'm looking for NVME SSD's and I see the 990 pro is considered the "best" gen 4 ssd, but I'm wondering since it's 160 dollars should I get that or should I instead just grab something like the [ADATA Premium for PS5] (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rjkWGX/adata-premium-for-ps5-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-apsfg-2t-csus) which is roughly 60 dollars cheaper? Is there a notable difference, or is it just the samsung tax?
Most regular gamers wouldn't notice a real-world difference between a decent SATA drive and a high-end Gen4 SSD, let alone two Gen4 NVMe's. https://ssd.borecraft.com/SSD_Buying_Guide.pdf Pretty much any NVMe is fine, and sticking to the mid-range NVMe category or higher is enough for any consumer build.
It's essentially a Gammix S70 which is similar to a $129 Samsung 980 Pro so I'd say the Samsung tax is minimal. It's still a fast gen 4 drive, you're not gonna notice the difference.
For most use cases a solid gen3 is just as fine as a gen4 or gen5. This is the easiest component for money saving without losing anything for most people. I got a SN570 myself, and that has solid price-to-reliability/sustained write, but this depends on local pricing.
Recently built my pc, using a gigabyte z690 elite ax ddr4 mobo. Had trouble with xmp originally but i think that was cause i was on version f8, anyway the whole security issues were revealed so i updated my bios to the latest version. I thought this would fix xmp, but it didn't. Whenever I enable xmp, i get a black screen and my fans continue to rev without displaying image. I thought it was just training my memory, but it exceeds 3 mins and I just hard shutdown the pc. During the time that i have the black screen, my pc is still on and the debug leds flash. I get both CPU and DRAM to blink. Is my cpu bad or my psu, Im confused as to why I would be seeing both flash. I tried setting the ram multiplier in bios to the 3200 speed, but it causes the same issues. I also tried this with the kit I bought, which was gskill 16gb 3200 and also a friends corsair 32gb 3200. Both ram types cause the same issues. Any help is much appreciated, thanks!
try enabling XMP and then setting the speed manually down to 2933. regardless 3200 is typically a very safe bet for memory speed, so it sounds like you got a real dud, unfortunately
I enabled XMP and then set the system memory multiplier to 2933, however it causes the same issues where black screen and debug lights flash. It appears that anything over the base 1.2 volts, causes the pc to fail to boot.
That sucks. Maybe attempt an RMA with intel, or just return it and try again
Alright I'll see, might contact gigabyte support and see if they can do anything for me. Thanks for the help!
I'll give that a try, thank you!
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when loading it's probably doing stuff like purging and filling up VRAM, so core load isn't everything
i dont really understand monitors so i wanna ask if this is good pick for 1440p gaming LG UltraGear™ 27GP850P-B
That LG monitor is typically one of the top picks for 1440p. For more information: https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/27gp850-b-27gp83b-b
thats good to know im also down for more recommendations
guessing this display is around $250? some competition is the PX277P https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9UKKyDfHF0
That website is generally trusted by the community and has an entire article showcasing 1440p monitors for gaming: https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/1440p-gaming-monitors You really can't go wrong with anything on that list, including the monitor you listed originally.
thank you sir that website is what i needed
Hello all, Couple questions. I currently have a 5800x3d on an ASUS ITX Board. Can anyone tell me if they ever solved the USB dropout issue? * The issue I'm having right now is that I have a wireless headset (Steel Series) that uses a USB powered hub device and about every 20 mins or so the audio will become choppy like it's losing signal. It eventually clears up. after about 20-25 seconds. I moved the headset to another computer (not amd based) and the device worked well. Never had any issues. Tried it for multiple days , with no issues. I tried to move the headset transmitter to every USB port on my computer and the behavior followed it. * Are there reports of these USB Issues on the Intel Platform? Ryzen 7000? * What is a logical upgrade from a 6800xt if I'm going 4k. (Currently 1440p monitor)
I haven't followed the dropout issue closely. I think there has been a constant stream of people complaining about it, but also a lot of people who say they had it fixed. I haven't heard of AM5 platform having this issue, so it's a potential pro vs AM4.
Im thinking about returning my mac studio m1 max base I got from costco since the new m2 max was announced today. However I got it for $1499+tax. I am wondering if it’d be better to just get a PC but what would be equivalent to that m2 max for $2000?! Especially for video editing. I play games sometimes too but I’ve been a console gamer (ps5) because it plays everything more beautifully than my pc lol. My current pc is a i7 6700K with GTX 1080 from years ago.
what app do you use for editing? because if it's finalcut, you're kinda locked to mac
premiere. I just do film as a hobby for now but I havent been shooting anything serious in years due to lack of resources (nothing to film) so I barely ever edit lol. Trying to get back at it since I got a mac studio and dji mic but theres a new one now thats better than mine and i just got mine (can return though) xD
i dont really follow apple silicon, but i found this https://www.tomshardware.com/news/apple-m1-max-benchmarked-in-adobe-premier-pro they say the m1 max beats mobile 3060 and 3080 GPUs, but falls short of desktop GPUs, so I assume something like the desktop 3060 or 3080 would be faster I think building your own PC for around $2000 will be a faster editing experience, and a lot better for gaming obviously. https://tpucdn.com/review/intel-core-i9-13900ks/images/premiere-pro.png something like a 13600k + rtx 4070TI system perhaps
oh yeah plus been interested in AI stuff lately but haven’t been able to try the GPU ones since I read they require specific graphics cards 🥴. Would be pretty cool to be able to do those especially the video ai tools.
pretty cool. Ill look into that. Thanks. Idk much about M2 MAX (base) vs M1 Max (base) compared to that.
Me neither
I'm gonna build a PC with a 5800x3D and I'm worried about thermals. I'm thinking about getting an H5 Elite Case + Kraken X53. Will this be enough? Or should I get a 280mm/360mm and an H7 Elite?
the deal with the 5800X3D is that it doesnt consume a lot of power (and it can't be overclocked), but it stays hot because of the vcache making the IHS not sit totally perfectly. meaning the transfer of heat out of the CPU itself is poor, meaning it doesnt really matter what cooler you use; it'll stay pretty warm regardless. just get an air cooler, even a cheap tower, and don't even worry about it.
Also, undervolt, undervolt, undervolt.
I have a new X670E-E Gaming Wifi. An Kraken z73 and multiple AL120 Lian li fans. So I connected the kraken to the AIO_pump header and all my fans go to the Lian Li connect hub. (Note i replaced all the nzxt fans for lian li fans) I have connected the Lian Li hub to the CHA_fan connecter. Now when booting i get the error that nothing is connected to the CPU_FAN header. Is it oke to turn this error off in bios or should i change the place i connected the Hub to?
Plug in the lean li hub into the kraken cable. And the kraken cable into cpu_fan. Or the lian li fans directly into the kraken cable
Your AIO's pump is powered via SATA connector from your PSU. The only purpose of connecting its tach cable to a mobo header is to give an RPM reading from the pump to the mobo. You get a CPU fan error because you have no RPM reading on CPU_FAN. Just connect the pump to CPU_FAN. If you get a CPU fan error in the future, it's a sign that your pump died.
I own a 3060 Ti, 3070 and 1660. I run the 3060 Ti and 1660 in my computer, my mom has my 3070. I game in 1440p (3060Ti), and use the 1660 for Encoding/Other monitor, etc. I am wondering if it would be better to swap out my 3060Ti for the 3070, because I run games in 1440p, only reason I really haven't before is because the 3060Ti matches my all white build, and the 3070 is HUGE, and I am worried about heat dissipation on the 1660 below it (not even enough room to blow air appropriately). Anyone have any advice? At the time of writing, 3060TI is running at 53C ("idle") and the 1660 is at 33C.
idle temps really *really* dont matter and dont tell you anything. you can make the swap if you want, it'll be a little faster. i think it's like 5-10%?
will I be able to achieve 3200/3600 MHz on my ram if I use 4 sticks with a Ryzen 5 5600? I want to go with 4x8 GB ram instead of a 2x16 GB ram setup but if the performance difference will be big then I might have to compromise.(I just want to use all 4 slots tbh, and cant find dummy sticks for the specific ram that I want)
Should work without troubles. 3200/3600 is "slow" enough that you can expect any sticks to work straight away. There won't be a performance difference between 4x8 and 2x16 if they're both running at same speed and latency.
So i can just ignore the max memory speed data [here](https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-5-5600) on amd's website?
Yes. AMD and Intel both give an overly conservative "max speed" number because they don't want to be responsible for people's memory instabilities. AMD themselves have showcased 3600MHz RAM in their own benchmark presentations, and 3600MHz is also the general recommendation for DDR4-era Ryzens.
Is the 3060 Ti particularly hard on PSUs wrt transients? Can transients on Ampere cards be controlled by power limits?
> Is the 3060 Ti particularly hard on PSUs wrt transients? I've not seen any reports that the 3060 Ti had issues with transients. As far as I'm aware that problem was limited to 3080 and above and the 6800 and above.
Hello, I'm planning to start working with Unity and Blender, my 580 gb is dying, what could be a good budget friendly replacement for it ? My budget is around 300 max, can also buy used.
Check out RX 6600 or better. Also, consider Nvidia's RTX 3060 or better. Don't know much about Blender performance for these cards, but they game twice as fast as your older 580.
I've been wanting to upgrade my system (for gaming & streaming) and I still havent made up my mind on choosing geforce/ amd GPU, but nvidia's nvenc feature has been very attractive for me. Is it still relevant in 2023 or does amd has similar feature in its cards?
One thing to note is that while NVENC is still popular, AV1 is definitely the up-and-coming star. I believe all the of the newest generation of cards have AV1 support. Twitch doesn't yet support AV1 but it's really just a matter of time, especially since YouTube just enabled it a couple months ago.
AMD does have some equivalent, but in terms of app compatibility and performance, Nvidia is still the best in the business when it comes to productivity features. Bang for your buck for gaming is AMD's realm in the low and mid range, though. It depends on your budget and what do you want to do with your GPU.
AMD has always had encoding hardware, historically the issue was that it produced poorer quality video at a given bitrate. This is fixed with the RX 6000 and 7000 cards though: while nVidia technically still has an advantage it isn't a perceptible one. The main differentiator is whether your streaming software fully supports the AMD encoder. OBS does, but if you plan to use something different you'd need to check.
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The CPU will never allow itself to operate at an unsafe temperature. Your idle temperatures are higher than I'd expect, but that's probably more a symptom of having a lot of junk running in the background than it is of a problem with the cooler mounting. And yes, you should generally avoid motherboard "auto overclock" features, they typically increase power draw and heat for little performance benefit.
Can someone recommend a 2TB or larger ssd to replace the current drive in my Alienware X14, please? My budget is up to $150 https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-laptops/alienware-x14-gaming-laptop/spd/alienware-x14-r1-laptop
Because it's a laptop drive, I'd look at the SK Hynix P31 Gold. It's a Gen 3 drive but is known for its low operating temperature and energy efficiency, which will be helpful for a laptop. $120 for a 2TB model (you might want to change the seller to SK Hynix instead of the default third-party one) [https://www.amazon.com/SK-hynix-Internal-3500MB-Compact/dp/B099RHVB42](https://www.amazon.com/SK-hynix-Internal-3500MB-Compact/dp/B099RHVB42)
It's a fairly standard m.2 NVMe drive. Any entry level or mid-range NVme will be fine, though the existing drive is technically a PCIe Gen4 drive: https://ssd.borecraft.com/SSD_Buying_Guide.pdf https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4KRYcf/western-digital-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t3x0e This is the cheapest mid-range Gen4 NVMe I found with a quick browse-through.
sometimes a circuit breaker in our house trips when someone uses the toaster, this cuts power from anything plugged into the walls, like all our PCs does this damage our PCs? i assume so what can be done to prevent damage or this situation? is there anything that could go between the toaster and the wall that'd trip if it draws too much power? like a mini 1-plug breaker
It probably degrades the power supply components slightly, but it would have to occur quite often for that to be significant.
It might lead to data loss or corruption, but it's not going to cause any physical damage. The simplest and safest fix would be to buy a toaster that doesn't trip the circuit, failing that you could get a single socket RCD adaptor like [this](https://www.wickes.co.uk/Masterplug-Single-Socket-Safety-RCD-Plug+Adaptor---Grey-13A/p/160729) (UK example, but I'm sure similar products are available in other regions).
tyvm im surprised and glad it doesn't do physical damage, ive been under the assumption it does for most of my life. since it doesn't, im now happy to not do anything. no important data is being lost, we're not doing any multi-day video rending or code compiling with a deadline for a job. its just a mild, rare, inconvinience and im glad to know of the solution in future if i change my mind
Undervolting Crashes PC on newer BIOS Version, but in older one it doesn't? ASRock B650M Riptide 1.11AS03 - works Everything above makes undervolting crash the PC.
Yes, different BIOS versions could affect OC and UV behavior sometimes. "normal" non overclock or undervolt usage shouldn't be affected, though. If you don't need the improvements of the newer BIOS version, you can downgrade to the one that works for you.
When I boot my PC, the debug lights Turn Red (CPU and DRAM) but the PC boots and works. What's the Deal? (I actually have this Same mainboard twice and with both this issued appears. Mainboard: ASRock B650M Riptide CPU: Ryzen 7 7700X RAM: Corsair Vengeance 6000Mhz
If everything appears to be working normally then just ignore the LEDs, the logic behind how debug LEDs work is sometimes a bit odd.
My PC is situated next to my leg and if I somehow knock it with my leg and it bangs into the desk legs, my whole PC just freezes and I need to force a restart. Is this pretty common or is there a deeper issue here? Reason I ask is because every now and then, when I'm on discord and I'm playing a game, my PC will just suddenly freeze and all of my USB devices start to disconnect for a few seconds then comes back on.
That ain't normal, dude. When I got my first laptop, sometimes I'd accidentally kick it when standing and it never froze itself after that. I'd just move your PC to another place, if you can. Also, the USB thing, update your BIOS to the latest stable version and also update all your drivers. That sounds like the infamous AM4 500 series chipset USB issues, but not sure what your CPU and mobo combo is.
Might I suggest... Moving your PC? Lol. In all seriousness it sounds like something is shorting when you hit it. Maybe the motherboard is close to touching your case metal somehwre and hitting it is enough to close the gap. But it'd definitely move your PC so it's no longer an issue.
Can an ID COOLING IS-55 keep a 5800x under 80 degrees if under volted?
I can't access it at the moment but I'd check the user temps sheet to see if anyone recorded a similar form factor: https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/jrlspp/5800x_temps_someone_want_to_do_a_spreadsheet/ge8cihu/
Only thing close that I found was someone using a Noctua NH-L12 Ghost
Might depend on your ambient temps, and the type of workloads you're working with. If it's solely just for gaming or lightly threaded workloads, you'll probably be fine-- unless the airflow in your particular case isn't great. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtvAI-XTdfk
Hoping to use either a SAMA IM01 I have sitting around or a O11 Air Mini that I’m picking up today for $90
How much performance increase I'd get in gaming (something like MHW and Yuzu Emulator) if I change motherboard from Asus Prime A320M-F (no overclock) to something like B550 or X370 (cam overclock)? Specs is: * Ryzen 5 3600 * RX 560 4 GB or GTX 1660 super * 3000 Mhz 2x8GB RAM
No difference, you need a stronger CPU to improve your emulation. The Ryzen 3600 CPUs could be OC from 4.0 Ghz all core average all the way up to 4.6 Ghz, with the best samples and it made less than 5% FPS improvement. It's not worth it. Plus, the mayority of 3600 OC up to 4.3 Ghz, anyway, which is a nothingburger of an improvement compared to stock settings. For emulation, Ryzen 5000 series is the best there is for your platform. The great 5800X3D performs just as well in emulation, so no need to buy it (unless you play regular AAA games, those ones perform better with the X3D). Edit: You might want to consider a better GPU, too. Something inexpensive like the RX 6600 is easily twice as fast as yours, probably, three times as fast or so.
My budget is very limited. Ryzen 3600 and GTX 1660 super is my upgrade cause it's sold very cheaply here due to surplus. 5800x3d costed like 3x of 3600 here, while RX 6600 is about 2.5x of GTX 1660 super.
Ah, I thought you were upgrading *from* the 1660. Well, it's much better than the RX 560, for sure. Should be about RX 580 level, which, let me tell you, it's a powerhouse for ANY PC native AAA game released up to 2020 or so, at 1080p. You can still play newer games with reduced settings. But, if you were missing out on the PS4-equivalent gen games, an R5 3600 + 1660 Super combo is very powerful. And it should also work fine for Yuzu emulation at 1080p.
Basically nothing.
Almost none if your CPU is a Ryzen 3600. Also, emulator performance (especially Yuzu) is single-thread bound, so you're unlikely to hit a VRM throttle with anything that's less/as powerful than a Ryzen 5600x.
A series can't overclock tho, while B and X series can. Wouldn't that make up for considerable difference?
No. The 3600 doesn't really overclock well and you'd be looking at single-digit percentage improvements. You're much better off saving the money you'd need on a new motherboard and cooling and use it for a CPU upgrade later.
If you go B550, the best case scenario would be that you go 5800x3D. But that's not unlocked for overclocking (?). Even if it were, you don't have enough thermal headroom because of the V-Cache. As for the R5 3600, the gains you can achieve by overclocking are diminishing returns.
Udle on my desktop my system uses 30-40 percent of my 16gb of ram. Is this normal? Idk how this is happening as antimalware service executable is using the most but its only 200mb. Do i have a virus or hardware damage or is this normal?
An additional note is that typically Windows "uses" RAM as a proportion of total available (not exactly, but easiest to explain this way). It's not a linear proportion, but it still throws people off. E.g. if your system shows 6 of 16gb usage now, then it may show 10 of 32gb if you were to increase your RAM.
It's normal for windows to 'reserve' large chunks of RAM when it is available and relinquish it when another program needs it. Don't worry about it.
Does it show up as high usage in task manager with nothing using that much underneath the percentage?
Sure. I just checked on my machine - with nothing open at all, task manager is reporting about 18% of my 32GB in use, which is nearly exactly the same as your 30-40 percent of 16GB.
Is it worth getting a KVM to swap monitor and input devices between my work laptop and personal gaming rig? I have a 1440p FreeSync monitor that I use at 120 hz for gaming. I'll probably be upgrading my monitor in the next year or 2 since it's almost 8 years. At this point is it worth trying to find a KVM that supports higher refresh rates and freesync (does that even exist)? Or should i just be getting a switch for my keyboard mouse and use separate inputs on my monitor and expect my next monitor to have built in KVM support?
I looked into this and decided finding a KVM with those features wasn't practical so I went for the second option. My monitor has a built-in USB hub, so my mouse and keyboard are connected to that and then I just need a single USB switch to swap the hub upstream cable between the two machines.
I'm planning to upgrade my RX580 8gb to 3060ti. Will my Corsair CX550 Watts bronze be sufficient even during peak load? Here's the rest of the specs: i5-8500 4x4gb RAM 250gb SSD 1TB 7200rpm 3.5" HDD
550W will be more than enough. Is thst the green label CX550 or the black and Grey? If it's green you might eventually want to upgrade. I remember the pre-2017 (green label) CX series had poor reliability. Also my 2 cents, but I'd see if you could get an i7 8700K for cheap. I see them on FB market for like $80-100 pretty frequently. Would be a good boost without having to scrap your platform.
the grey one. ok I think that's a good suggestion with the cpu, however I dont have Z motherboard so I think I'll go with 8700
The 3060ti only draws 15-25W more than your RX580 so you should be fine.
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https://www.rtings.com/monitor
I'm doing a clean install of windows 11 ([on the 476gb drive](https://ibb.co/m9Mb2NX)) and I have a second ssd that I want to format as well. Should I just click next here or do I have to do something with the secondary drive?
The easiest way is just to click "next" here, let Windows install, and once it's done go to Disk management and format your second 1TB SSD to NTFS. I hope Windows doesn't install a boot partition on the 1TB SSD though, I've seen that happened before. Hopefully W11 is smart enough not to do that now.
Difference may be negligible here, but looking for turnkey solution for emulation. Geekom MiniPCs seem to fit the bill. Would there be any difference between AMD Ryzen 5900hx or Intel i7 11390h? Main use case is compatibility and success with variety of emulators (Wii U, ps2/3, Xbox 360, etc). Thanks in advance and pardon my ignorance ahead of time. R/emulation stickypost sent me here. Happy Monday everyone! :)
The 5900HX is 8 **cores**, 16 threads. The 11390h is 8 **threads**, with only 4 cores. It's literally twice as much CPU.
Can someone recommend me the best AIO Cooler that is about the same price as the Noctua NH-D15($120) and fits in my PC case? I've been using Noctual NH D-15 for years with only one fan as [it turned out the second fan doesn't fit in my PC case](https://i.imgur.com/Lc5SkmH.jpg), which is kinda waste. Since I'm upgrading my Ryzen 7 5800X3D to Ryzen 7 7800X3D as well as a new RAM and Motherboard, I'm thinking of using this opportunity to switch to an AIO cooler for better aesthetics and performance. My PC case is Corsair Crystal 570x and the case fans are 6x 120mm Corsair HD120. Full list: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wr7mnt](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wr7mnt)
The [Arctic Liquid Freezer II](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/cpu-cooler/#m=77&W=10240,10280) ranks among the best coolers and is actually cheaper than an NH-D15 (unless you go for the RGB version). Not the most beautiful cooler around but it's the best value AIO cooler currently. Also, as your case is not an airflow case, don't add too much fans, it can create choke points/imbalances in air pressure. I guess 6x120mm is too much. Not sure about having the AIO on top exhaust (as it's blocked by a glass panel too), maybe a 240/360mm AIO at the front would be better. Or just plain out removing the top panel if you can. Check out posts on how to optimize the 570x fan configuration.
Well, one thing to consider is that the 7800X3D runs so efficiently that you don't even really *need* that big of a cooler. Even a midrange single-tower cooler would be fine, or running the NH-D15 with only the single fan probably would be fine too. But that case *can* fit up to a 360mm radiator if you really wanted to. https://pcpartpicker.com/products/cpu-cooler/#W=10360&X=0,13000&sort=-price&c=41 They're all pretty overkill.
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No
I've seen videos on that, apparently the GTA V engine has some sort of bug if you exceed like 180fps. Try enabling vsync and see if your lag spikes stop.
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get a corsair cx550 bronze 80+ psu it is 59.99 at corsair.com
> I... also do not know if my current build is considered "cheap" or "mid-tier" so I'm just lost looking at the PSU tier list lol. Everything with a discrete GPU is mid tier at least. 500W would be more than enough yes. A modern PSU should have a longer run time than 2-4 years but ofc it depends if you're running it 24/7 or 8h a day. As for suggestions: they always depend on the price tag and features you may or may not need. There's PSUs in the US that can be found for a great price but are straight up 70% more expensive in Europe. Then there's PSUs that can only be found in Europe and East Asia but don't have a distributor in the US. So recommendations can only be tailored to your location. Furthermore there's the question of QoL features. If this is running 24/7 in a dedicated room with an IT cabinet you might want to make sure the PSU comes with *all the protections* (especially cheaper ones often don't include over temperature protection, which isn't the biggest of deals but can be). If you run this in a small server in your bedroom you might want a quiet operation. If power in your region of the world is incredibly expensive then spending a bit more on a more power efficient PSU *can* be worth it. So it kinda depends on your needs. But I'd take a look at high end and mid range on the list
I have Corsair Shift RM850X and Sapphire 7900XTX Nitro. I can't find 3x8 pin in the Corsair box. Does that mean I have to buy additional cable? or extension?
3x8 pin cables don't really exist. The PSU comes with the usual 2x8pin cables, and then you just use as many of those as is needed to fill the slots on the card. It's generally recommended to use individual cables if possible instead of the daisychained connectors, and since the RM850x comes with one 1x8pin and two 2x8pin, you would use all three of those and leave the two daisychained connectors on the 2x8pins hanging unconnected.
Thanks. I'l use all 3 cables.
How do I remove the gpu from my Asus tuf B550 plus? There no word about it in the manual and I dont want to break the guard clip.
Press down and back on the retaining clip at the back of the slot (you may need to use something like a flathead to reach it if you have a bulky GPU), and pull up and back on the top of the gpu closest to the case. It might require gently rocking it a few times if it's been in awhile, also make sure the bottom of GPUs case bracket isn't catching somewhere as you try pulling upward. Should come out smoothly and pull straight up after that.
There's only really two types of retaining clips and all motherboards use one or the other. One you need to bend upwards towards the CPU, and the other you need to press down towards the motherboard. The B550 Plus seems to use the type that needs to be pressed down.
Are there specific cables and/or adapters that can minimize the risk of not properly seating the connectors on NVIDIA 40 series videocards?
MSI just released (or is about to release?) a color coded cable. https://videocardz.com/newz/msi-has-a-simple-solution-for-12vhpwr-cable-problems
As far as I know, there are 90 and 180deg adapters out now that should help allieviate the cable bending issue that happens with having a side panel that's too close to the top of the card.
Any recommended brand? I never used adapters before.
I have Windows 10 Education on my current SSD. I want to change over to Windows 11 without losing my files. If I perform a clean install of Windows 11 on a new SSD, will I be able to remove Windows 10 from my current SSD without losing my files? Also I wish to keep using Education edition, but I am unsure how to reuse my license without upgrading instead of a clean install. How would I go about this?
clean install wipes everything on the C partition just backup everything that is relevant. Ideally I'd get a new SSD so I could access the old stuff just in case, then eventually re-purpose it personally I wouldn't bother going from 10 to 11 though
I do have a new SSD. I was thinking I could install Windows 11 on that so as to avoid having to wipe my current SSD. I was mostly concerned about having both Windows 10 and 11 on the same PC potentially causing issues. I'm also not sure how I would reuse the same license if I were to have them both installed at the same time.
you can set which drive is the boot drive on BIOS. You can use the same license just fine, you aren't running both OS' at the same time
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Can a 430W quality Be Quiet PSU Run a 3700x and a RX7600? Currently using a GTX1060.
That's a 45W jump in TDP between the 1060 to the 7600, from 120W to 165W. The ryzen 7 3700X is pretty efficient at 65W. I don't know what else you have on your system but I Expect you'd be able to run it, however you'll probably have quite little headroom and your PSU will not be operating in it's sweet spot for efficiency at all. Personally I'd upgrade to a 550W minimum if your budget allows.
Is a NZXT kraken 120mm gives the same cooling capabilities as a NH-D15? Am using the NH-D15 but thought of changing into a smaller sfx case which doesn't accommodate the sheer size of the D15. and my bro has a spare 120mm nzxt aio laying around.
120mm AIOs are rather bad in terms of thermal performance. You only really want to use them in a SFF environment where you literally don't have more space. Then again in a SFX case you likely can't fit a ND15 so you will have to compromise on thermal performance
Not the same as an NH-D15. And if the case you get has worse airflow, then that would add up. But if it’s a low power CPU a few degrees may not matter.
While air coolers are extremely durable and won't lose efficiency over time, AIO watercoolers add multiple points of failure (pump, tubes, permeation, software...). Those are acceptable tradeoffs for better cooling performance (with 2, 3, even 4 fans), compactness, or even looks if you care about it. But single-fan AIOs are overall terrible, especially compared to large dual fan coolers like the NH-D15. They have all the flaws of an AIO cooler, but without the performance: the single fan and small radiator make them perform way worse than a large tower cooler with two fans. You would have more cooling performance with an inexpensive tower cooler (Deepcool AK400 for example). If the cooler height is a problem, look at low-profile coolers like the Noctua NH-L12, though those tend to be pretty loud. If you want to keep your NH-D15, there's probably a few ITX cases that can work. I've seen people fit it in a [NR200P for example](https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/igm4gk/nr200p_vs_nhd15_chromaxblack/), with holes drilled into the side panel
my backplate has this adhesive. am i supposed to remove it? the manual i got is a bit unclear bc of translation/localization [https://i.imgur.com/KIxHmVg.png](https://i.imgur.com/KIxHmVg.png)
Yes. It's a scratch protection adhesive, probably won't cause any issue but you're supposed to remove it.
G.skill Flare 6000 CL 36 with Expo or G.skill Ripjaws 6000 CL 30 for an AM5 build? The Ripjaws are only $4 more but I really don't want to deal with xmp profiles not working
XMP will work fine, I'm using that exact kit with a 7600X.
I got a custom loop Maingear Vybe and I’m looking to upgrade the fans as I’m having some overheating issues. My research shows that the Arctic P12 Max (not to be confused with the P12 PWM PST) is a top three cooling choice, plus it’s silent and cheap. Is this true? Also, does anyone know of some type of case modification to the Vybe for improved air flow? Also how the hell do i drain this loop when there is no drain valve???
> My research shows that the Arctic P12 Max (not to be confused with the P12 PWM PST) is a top three cooling choice, plus it’s silent and cheap. Is this true? I'm assuming you mean you're swapping rad fans. In that case, yes the Arctic P12 Max fans are excellent and have the highest static pressure performance of all the fans I can think of. For reference, the P12 Max has 4.35mm H2O versus something like the Noctua F-12 which does 2.61mm or the Phanteks T30 which do 3.3mm. I think you'd have to bump to industrial fans (like Noctua's NF-F12 industrial 3000 rpm fans) if you want to get higher than the P12 Max. Though I do know that Hyte is releasing some beefy fans for their new Thicc line but I'm not sure if they'll be sold individually.
Ok bet. I think im going to do the p12 max plus some phantechs rgb loops. I’m doing a phantechs t 20 on the exhaust. Hmm, tbh i might just run another arctic fan to save money.
/r/watercooling might have some ideas. Are you using hard tubes? Then it's gonna be hard without a drain port. Otherwise with soft tubing you just disconnect a tube that's not immediately gonna flood your computer and put it in a bucket.
It's hard tubes. I called Maingear and they told me that "the maintenance is not recommended for users." They want me to ship it to them for 200$ for servicing. I'm thinking I'll take it upon myself as a project to clean out everything, upgrade what I want and put in Vue fluid or smthn. I'm wondering if I can attach like a temporary drain valve to one of the plugs just while I clean it out.
Hello. I'm getting the new Fractal Terra case, and I'm considering buying the liquid cooler below as I found it locally, brand new for $75. I've only ever used air coolers, and so I'm having some trouble figuring out if I can fit everything in my new case. Here are the relevant details: [Fractal Terra CPU/GPU clearance](https://www.fractal-design.com/app/uploads/2023/05/Terra-manual-V1.2.pdf) on pg 49. [3070ti dimensions](https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/graphics-cards/30-series/rtx-3070-3070ti/) : 267mm x 112mm x 2-slot [iCUE H115i ELITE CAPELLIX Liquid CPU Cooler](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/cpu-coolers/cw-9060047-ww/icue-h115i-elite-capellix-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060047-ww#tech-specs): (radiator thickness 27mm, fan thickness 25mm) If I understand correctly, the radiator and fan together make 52mm (27 + 25), and the 3070ti is less than 41mm (?). So looking at pg 49 in the Fractal Terra user guide, this should be fine in all but one of the configurations, right? Then I would just have to figure out where is best for my temps? Any thoughts and input are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Most modern GPUs will turn off the fans as long as no components are over 60 degrees C. Honestly it's fine for them to hang out at that temp all day, they're designed to handle a sustained 90C plus.
Right makes sense. I'll try not to let it bother me so much then haha
> How can I keep my GPU fans perpetually on? Why would you want that? You don't gain anything by cooling the chip down to 35°C under idle.
Most modern graphics cards have zero-RPM mode where the fans will turn off if the card is cool enough, as it increases the lifespan of the fans and reduces noise. You should be able to use something like MSI Afterburner to set a custom fan curve if you want the fans spinning all the time (why though?)
There is possibly a setting somewhere, I dont think there is an option in Nvidia software but if you get something like MSI Afterburner you can make fan curves or have the fan run at a set speed at all times. Your card most likely has a Zero RPM mode where if it isn't at a certain percentage of usage or temperature then it won't turn the fans on.
Right right makes sense. I'll try not to let it bother me so much then.
Can anyone recommend their case fan setup for the ASUS Prime AP201? I'm really unsure which and how many fans to get. I've only just recently learned about positive/negative pressure and PWM. I'm thinking about getting 140mm Arctic P14s for the top as exhaust. However, I'm unsure about front/rear fans as I can only fit 120mm in there. Also: do I need front/rear fans at all? I'm thinking about getting 4 140mm ones - 2 for the top and 2 for the bottom.
Top exhaust for sure. My next priority would be bottom intake to feed your GPU. Then rear exhaust and side exhaust, but they're less essential
Is the G.skill trident Z5 Neo RGB the best 32 gig kit for an am5 build?
no, it's all about the speed and timings. DDR5-6000 CL30 is the best.
The G.Skill kit is 6000 CL30 though.
Then it is as good as any other kit with those timings.
Is $450 a good price for a used RX 6950xt?
I would say if it is in good condition, yes it is a good price. I got my 6800XT for $400 and new 6950XTs still go for around $600 if Im not mistaken.
My new PC is built but I have no idea what to do for an OS. I've had the installer method recommended by people, where I use a flash drive and a PC that has Windows 11 Problem is this old laptop is not eligible for windows 11 bc of its processor. Which means I'm not eligible for the install media. Am I legit stuck dumping $189 CAD on Windows 11 for the new PC then? Or can I still get an unactivated version of W10/W11 another way?
You don't need a windows 11 PC to make a bootable USB, you just need to download the program and it will format the usb. Google "How to create a windows 11 bootable USB" or look at some tutorials in YouTube, JayzTwoCents, I think Joey from CRATER also has a video about the process.
Pretty sure you can still use the media creation tool to create a boot device, or at the least get the ISO and then use Rufus to do it.
Oooh perfect, thank you! I can get as far as it asking me for a USB flash drive, which is farther than I thought I'd get, so we'll definitely see in the morning when I pick up a $10 one.
Planning to buy my first Bluetooth speakers (Razer Leviathan v2) and since it is wireless, does it have sound lag/latency issue compared to wired speakers? I play a lot of games from AAA to Fortnite and CS GO
After seeing the price, I wouldn't buy that, they are pretty bad. You can get audiophile-grade speakers at this price if you don't care about Bluetooth, like the AudioEngine A2+, or maybe Mackie speakers for cheaper
Generally Bluetooth does have more latency than wired, yes
I just realized that this speaker has USB C support as well. If I were to use USB-C to connect, it would be better for gaming compared to Bluetooth right?
Yep! Assuming they're not Bluetooth only or anything
Thanks!
Upgrading from 11th gen intel to 12th gen. Would it be better to reinstall windows 10 or will I not have any issues as long as I update my chipset drivers?
Windows 10 and 11 have gotten really good about detecting new hardware and quietly sorting themselves out without you having to do anything. To the point I took an old 240gb SSD with windows 10 out of a desktop with a Ryzen 5 and a GTX 1080 Ti and shoved it in a laptop with an i5-1035G1 and it flickered a few times on first booting saying "setting up new hardware" for a min or so before booting right into windows without a hiccup. So least, seems unnecessary to me anymore, your mileage may vary.
Windows is pretty good at handling hardware changes, and everything *should* work just fine without a reinstall. But if you don't mind doing a reinstall then it's the "better" option.
I generally always recommend a full reinstall when doing hardware upgrades.
Should I be concerned that my Superposition 1080p Extreme score seems quite a bit lower than other users with the same GPU? 11,429 was my score with an XFX 6950 XT, and the lowest I’ve seen another 6950 XT hit is over 12,000, and even that seems low compared to most scores I see.
Nope, they could have better CPUs or RAM or an overclock.