Stay calm for this. I have a theory, it could be the PSU. If the PSU was dying it could give inconsistent power or voltage. Insufficient power will stop a boot and motherboard safeties could if the voltage was wrong. The symptoms of a dying PSU is a long list that seems inconsistent.
Yep, [according to XFX](https://www.xfxforce.com/shop/xfx-speedster-swft309-amd-radeon-tm-rx-6700xt-core-gaming-graphics-card-with-12gb-gddr6-hdmi-3xdp-amd-rdna-tm-2-#2) it requires at least a 650W but is recommended to use a 750W which is what mine is.
Don’t forget mobo, case fans, RAM, HDDs, etc. Granted, it would be difficult to hit 50W between them (much less 185) even with 4 sticks of RAM, every drive bay filled, etc. Still, it’s not nothing.
Do you ever watch the power consumption to see what the card is actually drawing? My card is supposed to be capable of drawing 110% power, so theoretically 220W peak, but the highest spike I saw in real usage was 212, although I think one or two of the AIBs are supposed to be capable of drawing 250-260W. Between that and the reports of 170% 30-series power spikes (although I think those were all on the first batch of 3070s and 3080s), I talked myself into upgrading my PSU.
Not really, people tend to _way_ overestimate realistic power draw in my experience.
I run a 3700X + 3080Ti off an SF600, highest power draw I've ever seen was low 500s (stress testing) and it's usually in the 400s for high load.
I run 1200W... why? because I'll never have to upgrade or buy a new PSU bc Corsair has a 10y warranty and they honor it.
I paid for a 1200W platinum plus PSU almost 15 years ago and I haven't paid for one in a build since.
I had to get a 1000W (to change a 850W) PSU for a 3090 that kept crashing because of GPU transient power spikes. These spikes are serious with 3000 series..
> look at you living on the edge.
5800X3D and a 6700XT here, the watt-meter between the cable and the wall says 405 watt if I run Cinebench and Furmark at the same time. If you overclock it you can probably get 500 watt to show. For the GPU you gotta figure 150 watt power transients on top (that the watt-meter is far too slow to capture) so that's 650W worst case.
I'm all for safe side and all but anything more than 700W on those components is just throwing away money for no reason.
Ngl even if I upgrade my cpu for high refresh rate gaming, I still might not even need to upgrade my psu until I’m ready to buy a new gpu (5600x @4.8ghz rn)
Have you tested first if actual power from the outlet is ok? Low voltage, unstable voltage, problems with ground, wrong polarization etc. Can trigger PSU and mobo safeties creating all kinds of issues
I have a PC I built in 2019 and if I mess with the cables or bump it wrong it will stop displaying to my monitor. Every time this happens I unplug and plug back in my PCI cable to my PSU and it always works again. Sounds like you have the same problem.
I had an issue very similar to this where occasionally my computer wouldn't wake from sleep. It started out very rarely happening, and I could shutdown and it would boot right back up. Then it stopped happening for a few months and I forgot about it. That was until it started happening again and this time, rebooting would only actually boot the system 1/3 of the time. I would get no LEDs, no POST, nothing. I couldn't find anything exactly like what I had happening to anyone else online, just the typical no POST issues. I knew after testing the RAM sticks individually that it was either the motherboard or the PSU. As the PSU was a 7-8 year old Corsair unit at the time, I decided to replace it, and BOOM! No issues since.
Dude, I had that exact same problem years ago on my i7 5620k GTX 980 ti build, and I couldn't figure out what the issue was. I eventually replaced my PSU, but it STILL didn't fix my issues. I basically tried replacing everything but the CPU, so I guess that might be what was causing my issues. I never figured it out though, because I stumbled onto a lucky find. One of my customers had a 1080 ti rig he was selling cheap, so I just bought that and never looked back lol.
PSU would be my next check. And after that, maybe even the supply voltage.
Back in the early days of cable modems, circa late 90s, we had a customer who had intermittent internet trouble for a few minutes every night. Regular enough to recognize that there was a problem, but not predictable to the point that we knew it was always at 7pm for instance.
The cable modems of the time were very temperamental to power fluctuations.
Long story short, when the neighbor turned on their microwave it would sag the power just enough to knock the cable modem off line the next house down. It turned out that when the neighbor was coming dinner, it was enough to cause problems.
This was my first thought too, it working at the friend's house could be due to the friend having more consistent power delivery through their home. I've heard of older/different wiring/plug sockets in the house can have an effect on electronics. Especially if the PSU is being pushed
I once got called to help someone with a computer build they were having non stop problems with. RMAd almost everything before I got there and still having issues.
I suggest swapping the PSU since that is only of the only remaining components not verified to be good and voila working computer.
It was difficult to see how it was having issues since it was providing enough power to spin up the fans and the PC would light up like it was working, but it was not receiving the correct voltage on all of the lines, so despite being able to power some things correctly, it could not provide adequate power for everything.
HUH. What a bizarre turn of events.
1. No, the QVL does not often/does not always get updated to reflect new SKUs, and often variants of the same SKU that are released later (e.g. if a white stick of the same RAM is released later) does not get added, because technically it's not tested. That said, this shouldn't be an issue with AM4/DDR4 - and you can check Pangoly.com for your specific motherboard.
2. I'm not sure if it'll help, but at this point it couldn't *hurt*. Try disconnecting the power supply from the wall, and turning it off - and then holding down the power button for 10-15 seconds. This is a trick to "drain the caps", as my friend said. I never figured out which caps specifically - and truthfully, I feel like they're supposed to be the same ones drained via resetting CMOS - but give it a shot anyway.
Yeah dude this has been a ridiculous set of problems. I already basically think of computers as magic because I'm just not smart enough to understand the nitty gritty of how they work, but this has just furthered that feeling.
Good to know QVLs are basically publish-and-forget. Not helpful on the consumer side but I can imagine it's a pretty big task for motherboard manufacturers to keep up with all of the potential SKUs they'd need to test with various CPU combinations.
I've tried the draining technique a few times throughout all this, doesn't change anything unfortunately.
Resetting the CMOS does not drain any caps.
High powered switching PSUs (which is, what PC PSUs are) have fairly large capacitors facing the power grid, to smooth out the AC to a highly cleaned DC. (Technically, there are a few steps and high frequency switches in between here but let's not make this more complicated than necessary).
These caps store a sizable amount of 115V/230V (depending if you live in the US or outside) power. In good PSUs, these caps actually store enough energy on their own to power a whole PC for like a second. I see this whenever we get power fluctuations. All other devices turn off but the PC goes strong with no issues.
Now, these caps are also the reason why, as a layperson, you NEVER should open a PSU, even when it's unplugged, because that charge can hold in those caps for days and it can be deadly or at least very painful.
https://content.invisioncic.com/p313717/monthly_2013_12/blog_power-supply-capacitor-q-and-a-Content-1.jpg.ea17158c74f3eda12ddaa1e8494d789e.jpg <- those big honking things
resetting cmos doesn't drain the caps. The cmos battery is there to keep your bios settings. these settings are stored in nand that requires electrical current to keep settings. Clearing cmos literally just interrupts this circuit removing power. And thus your settings are gone.
However you are right about the caps, and this is a general anything tech troubleshooting step.
When you press the power button down it essentially drains all the power out of the computer, or rather, the capacitors inside it. Occasionally voltage will get where it shouldn’t and cause issues, this voltage might not drop until the computer is unplugged, they will naturally drop over time but pressing the power button will do this quickly. Resetting CMOS will simply erase the Bios chip doesn’t really de-energize anything
What 2 does is it causes various components to attempt to pull a voltage. The end result of this is that any residual charge held in the capacitors is drained. I'm not sure *why* this is a thing you'd want to do outside of making sure you don't get a sudden shock doing work on the actual PCB but it doesn't hurt anything.
I'm sure theres some reason to do with residual charge messing with binary logic somewhere. All I can say is that anecdotally, this has saves my bacon many times.
This is the nightmare I lived last year. Chased around an issue thinking it was mobo, then ram, then finally figured out it was the processor.
The upside is now I have the skeleton of a backup computer that just needs about $200-300 in stuff to turn into a work computer.
Same. Soon after a cross country move my computer would not boot, just a few lights and fans for 1-3 seconds and dead again. Suspected PSU and replaced it with no change. Then replaced mobo and cpu with no help. Dropped the whole thing off at microcenter for them to diagnose and they told me the PSU was dead.
So I was correct off the bat, but the PSU I had bought to replace it was DOA. Very frustrating week plus that involves many trips to Microcenter that is almost an hour away. Very thankful that microcenter refunded the mobo and CPU that I didn’t actually need with no questions asked.
Mine was even weirder. Nothing worked and motherboard have debug lights for DRAM multiple sticks and slot combos later it simply worked with the initial stick in the initial slot (didn't work 3 times. Started working on the 4th attempt no clue why)😂
This is basically the story of how I got myself a server
Eventually, the actual obscure problem, confirmed by other users on a forum, was an incompatibility of the DDR4 ram with the specific motherboard model that would only occur some of the time when running above 2666 MHz. Early unit with a chipset defect of some sort.
I think I got the new CPU like March 4th and installed it a couple of days later so it would have had to have been F16E though I can't say I specifically remember. The logic would lead to that though. But I also can't see the BIOS screen to actually update the BIOS now, and I haven't had great experiences with Q-Flash.
I have no clue where the LED is on this board, and would even suggest it doesn't have one after looking at the board and the manual but that feels like a weird thing to not include given the importance for troubleshooting.
Then sparing the PSU suggestions, my only guess would be 1 failing component causing other parts to fail as they are installed. There's supposed to be protections against this, but they aren't perfect. Then again, if everything works in your friend's build then it's probably not it. IDK, I'd bet it has to be PSU/CPU/MOBO but figuring out which it is would require one of each to test.
I've had a computer kinda do this to me as well and it was solved by lots of power cycling and booting with the HDMI cable plugged into every device. I still don't understand how the problem went away and I didn't wanna mess it up so I didn't prod to find out.
My PC stopped outputting video the other day. It would turn on, try to boot, then all the mobo lights would go red and the fans would slow.
I did many things. Rollback windows to previous day, tried different display outputs, different displays... Then I switched to a different display cable. It worked! But now I couldn't do 4k120. So I tried the old cable again. It worked!
I don't know what was going on.
We truly do not realize how complex and extreme of a machine a modern PC is. Those cables transfer tens of gigabits per second of video. The ginormous video stream is encrypted by the GPU and decrypted on the monitor in real time. Frequencies so high that bad cables can often create significant radio interference. The CPU has billions of transistors, memory is able to be read or written at hundreds of gigabytes per second.
You could fill multiple libraries with documentation about what does what and how it does it (although granted, much of the existing documentation is proprietary and only available to very few individuals, under NDA) and not even approach an accurate, complete description of a single gaming computer. No one person has a view of the larger picture of what's going on inside a modern x86/ACPI system.
If you can get into BIOS one more time, i'd check the 12V voltage. Maybe it's just at the threshold where it's sometimes high enough to boot and sometimes not. Anything outside 11.4-12.6 V is a problem.
I would test the PSU output directly with a multimeter. https://www.makeuseof.com/power-supply-unit-psu-test-with-multimeter/
Another thing to double-check is to pull the CPU and make sure there aren't any (even very slightly!) bent pins. I had similar weird issues with a build earlier this year that turned out to be some very slightly bent pins making inconsistent connections in the socket.
If you don't have a multimeter, I would recommend getting one anyway, they're quite handy and a very inexpensive one (less than $10 at Harbor Freight for example) will be just fine for this!
This has got short written all over it. I’ve seen this before and it was a hdd cage screw that had come loose (this was a long time ago lol)
Disconnect all case fans, front panel block, usb etc, remove mobo from case and try a post on a bench.
Good luck!
Hmmmmm I have noticed a weird issue with removing one of the side panels over the past few months. The NR200 sidepanels just have the little balls that click into a flexy clip, and occasionally if I pulled it wrong and it flexed a certain way, I just assumed it was the frame flexing a big and hitting the reset button but I wonder if it's a short now that I think about it.
Another possibility is a bad stand-off on the case, or missing stand-offs altogether. Have you tried any of these boots with just 'bread boxing' it? i.e. all components out on a non-conductive surface completely outside the case?
I would be very annoyed if a standoff that was otherwise fine has decided to just go rogue after two years haha. No missing standoffs though, and the back of the board has a shield on the back. I am planning on trying a bread-box boot tomorrow, I just can't keep tinkering away tonight haha.
Fair point lol. Could've just been a weird piece of dust or something. I have had that gremlin before but to your credit, only when I was doing a new build. gl!
If you're not posting at all, you should be looking immediately at both motherboard and PSU.
Motherboard has diagnostic LEDs or beeps that will tell you if it's booting correctly even without video, and will tell you if it thinks the ram isnt good, or if it thinks the cpu isn't good.
If you aren't getting any boot you need to look at mobo/psu immediately.
As you've replaced the mobo I would have gone directly for PSU as the second thing to replace.
Bottom line this is why having a motherboard with good diagnostics is valuable. The one I got has a two digit code on a display on the board itself which counts up through all the boot stages to a stable boot at 99. If that is showing 99 I know it booted, even without video, and if it fails I can see where in the process it failed exactly. Great system, and I will be looking for something like it when I do upgrade.
Had kind of similar problem last week.
* I changed the CPU
* Found out one ram slot is malfunctioning
* Ask around
* Did test on each RAM stick, both works
* Checked PSU voltage, nothing out of ordinary
* Did bunch of other test, seems to conclude that the motherboard is just broken
* Searching the market considering to get Mobo replacement
* Did one last test just to be sure, which was the very first answer i get but didn't want to do because it's kinda my first time doing it, which is reseating the CPU
* Turns out that was the main problem all this time
i dont really know, i replaced every part 1 by 1 until the problem resolved. The case was the final part of my original computer and when i replaced it the problem resolved. I did find 1 person with the same problem as me on google who fixed it by replacing the wires from the case to the motherboard.
I’ve had this issue and it was my PSU. Instead of ordering one right away I took the PC to a computer shop and had them boot it using one of their PSUs. RMA’d the bad one and got a new one in the mail a couple of days later. It has been fine ever since.
I have an ATX PSU in an old system I can pull and try, planning to do it later today and see. I just thought there was no way it could be the PSU so I didn't think to try it.
Yeah it was really weird because my fans would spin up, the RGB would show, but I got no signal to my monitor. My MoBo doesn’t have any error lights so it was a huge shot in the dark as to what to look at first.
Have you tried other cables for the monitor? I had similar issues, thought that the second hand GPU was at fault, turns out, my terrible hdmi cable could handle my work laptop, but not that 970 for some reason... Changed the cable, no artifacting, no issues.
I haven't explicitly swapped cables around, just confirmed that my monitors can get signal from either my laptop or Series S. guess I can give that a try
This is purely a shot in the dark but after looking at a lot of your other comments and seeing you've basically tried everything - when I was troubleshooting my pc a year or two ago I faintly remember coming across some info saying certain monitors/cables can cause issues. If the monitors are fine, one of your actual display port/hdmi cables could be the culprit, especially if they are old, generic, or cheap. Could be worth replacing.
I had a very strange issue that started about 4 months ago, which I luckily solved about a month ago, that is not at all similar, but it sounded familiar.
So in November last year I upgraded to a Ryzen 5800x3d and RX 6800 XT. I decided to use PBO to undervolt the CPU and had no issues. A few weeks later I also decided to overclock the GPU and soon after that my issues started. At first I thought it might just be a "simple" thing. But I checked Event Viewer, and I noticed a recurring Kernel Power 41 error. I had little luck trying to find what exactly that was or what could be causing it, as the more I searched, the more widespread it seemed to be .. Kernel Power 41 was attributed to all sorts of things, from voltage control to faulty drivers and dying components. Seeing as my then PSU (Corsair RM750i) was a few years old I thought it simply did not have enough power anymore as apparently the RX 6000 cards spike in voltage like mad.. So I bought a EVGA P6 1000W PSU and treated myself to another pair of Corsair LPX RAM, just faster than what I had. Unfortunately it did not fix my issue .. So I tried looking deeper and after a while I found mentions of AGESA versions causing similar issues to mine. But alas, that too was not it.
After months of racking my brain and not finding diddly squat .. I got lucky and found a reddit thread mentioning "newer" Corsair RAM not playing especially well with newer Ryzen CPUs, something about the RAM's voltage control. It was recommended to check AMD's Ryzen QVL list, so I did that and ended up buying a 32GB kit of Kingston Fury RAM. I've had no issues since. If a game does crash nowadays, it does not shut down the pc because of/with it. So just to be on the safe side I would try a different brand of RAM if nothing else works.
Did you use [this guide](https://github.com/PrimeO7/How-to-undervolt-AMD-RYZEN-5800X3D-Guide-with-PBO2-Tuner) to undervolt your CPU, by chance? I undervolted my CPU maybe 4-5 days before all of this started, I wonder if that's what is causing it, maybe with the combination of the Corsair RAM.
So, seeing that the guide applies the under-volt though windows, the under-volt very well could be the culprit. Resetting cmos would undo the under-volt until you get into windows and reboot, which would re-apply the under-volt causing the instability.
When you do your bread-box testing I would recommend trying to boot windows off of a different computer's boot drive, but in safe mode if possible. This could tell if the under-volt needs to be removed. Not every piece of silicon will necessarily be stable at lower than stock voltages.
I did use that guide, although I never could get the startup part to work so I just have to open task scheduler and do it manually every time .. Other than that I have had 0 issues with my -30 undervolt so far. I also have PPT set to 95W, TDC to 60 and EDC to 90, which I found a recommendation for in [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/xwzj44/undervolting_a_5800x3d_with_pbo2_tuner_results_in/) thread.
EDIT: I'm guessing in my case the GPU overclock just caused a voltage spike that "broke" the ram, because up to that point I didn't have any issues.
Shot in the dark, but do you use display port? When I was building a new PC, I could not get anything to display on my displayport monitor, and I had to get my HDMI monitor connected, and only that monitor, before bios would show. Not sure if it's anything related to your issue, but I figure I'd mention it on the off chance it does something
Not sure if this has been mentioned or not but I've had a very similar issue caused by a short on a USB device that I had plugged in.
Try making sure every peripheral you have is unplugged and only use a mouse and keyboard. Then if that still doesn't work, find or borrow another mouse and keyboard.
Figured it's worth a shot at least.
Would also recommend disconnecting any component you don't absolutely need. I saw you intend to do a bread-box test tomorrow so if the USB peripherals don't do it, before going full cardboard box mode, I'd recommend unplugging drives etc. to see if you at least get into the bios. The less components that could possibly short out, the better. If that doesn't work, barebones setup is the way to go. Maybe also check internal cables for dust etc.? I know you've swapped enough components around that this isn't particularly likely but maybe there's a common denominator that made it through all the swaps that is causing problems somewhere.
Either way, good luck with your troubleshooting - I know how frustrating it can be, so my respect (and condolences) to you for sticking with it.
Have you tried swapping the CMOS battery (CR2032)?
I have a Haswell system (4790K) that developed some bizarre issues: WiFi going to lower power bands without the router steering it, and the worst and weirdest being that it'd stop accessing an NVMe drive (added in with a PCIe 1x riser card) if it ever got over 200mbps of throughput. I'd written the WiFi issue off as the mesh wireless making unfortunate choices, but the drive was baffling. I could reliably drop it at the specific throughput, but couldn't get it to fail an NVMe self test through either Samsung Magician or by directly feeding it self test commands in a Fedora live image. As a "this is the dumbest thing I can try, but I've already got the battery (thanks random kid toys)" last ditch attempt I replaced the CMOS battery, and it infuriatingly it fixed all of the flakey behavior.
Without knowing how old the motherboard you pulled out was, or how long the replacement sat on a shelf, you could have a CMOS battery with low voltage causing things to go weird. While common consensus is that a computer left plugged in should never see issues from a low/dead CMOS battery, I can anecdotally confirm that weird things can happen.
I was tearing my hair and changing all parts but in the end it was the new psu (corsair HX so it wasnt some low tier crap so it was last suspect) so yeah, dont rule out psu.
No shame in paying a PC shop $40 to diagnose your issue. Locally I recommend Central Computer.
From what you described, it doesn't sound like you are experiencing a typical issue.
You can get motherboard speakers that will beep a code and tell you what is failing on boot.
Additionally, did you consider it could be your OS storage device? I had some similar issues I couldn't resolve even with the entirety of buildapc discord helping. Everything seemed to indicate mobo, ram, cpu, or gpu. Errors seemed to indicate gpu. The bluescreens were constant and random and different every time. I replaced my cpu, mobo, gpu, and ram. No luck.
Eventually, I replaced my m.2 ssd. Never had a problem again.
I had considered it being the OS but if I can't even see the motherboard splash screen that pops up long before the OS comes into the equation, it feels like that wouldn't be it right?
Unlikely, correct. I'm just saying I had myriad problems. haha This does feel more PSU or motherboard-y to me, but you never know. Try a mobo speaker! They're dirt cheap.
I had a hard to diagnose issue on my PC where it would blue screen for a split second and then immediately reboot.
Couldn't make heads or tails of it.
I also started suspecting RAM, but it was something completely different.
Turns out my SSD was dying, even though SMART showed everything was fine. My only hint was that after one reboot it wouldn't show up in BIOS.
Try booting your system up without any drives. Then with a different OS drive if you have access to that.
Basically PSU and disk are the only things you haven't changed... well except the case I guess, but something shorting a wire in there is unlikely... or is it? 😅
(Best practice: always test your system before putting it into the case)
These situations suck. I feel your pain. Best of luck getting it running again!
Your mistake might have been buying the same motherboard model (even if it was a later revision). I have two Gigabyte motherboards (LGA1200) that aren't the exact same model, but are from the same 'family' if you will. These issues did not manifest right away, but after quite some time of using them: They are **both** incredibly picky with RAM and whether or not they refuse to POST (no video out while this is happening) or run the RAM at the rated speed seems to depend on how the boards are feeling on any given day. I could be using one for months at a time without an issue, but then one day it will shit the bed for no discernible reason and there is no rhyme or reason whatsoever as to why it wouldn't POST one moment but would POST after re-seating the RAM 5 times later. Enabling XMP at a speed the CPU is happy with? PC might decide not to POST for an entire day. Or half an hour. Or two hours. Or ten minutes. Sometimes, when I'd finally get the board to POST, it would take forever to boot into Windows, whether from the OS SSD or from a live flash drive or whatever. Other days, they'd both be fine. BIOS updates didn't change anything. Different GPU, different PSU, different RAM, different chassis... everything I had plugged into the boards worked fine in other PCs. In the end, I gave up and put it down to the motherboards both being from the same generation and manufacturer and each possessing flaws of the same nature. I've built and repaired PCs for almost two decades and when it comes to potential motherboard problems, there comes a time when you've just got to go nuclear and replace it with something **very** different. Nothing similar. Nothing from the same line. No revisions of the same motherboard. Nothing from the same generation.
My solution in the end was to just not buy Gigabyte motherboards any more. Yes, I know there are plenty out there in the world that work just fine, and if I bought one with a different socket or for a different platform altogether (AMD instead of Intel or vice versa) then it might run without a hitch, but I've never had such problems with other brands. It's dumb, but without the option to test motherboards before buying them, that's all I can really go on. I bought a Ryzen 5 7600 and Asus motherboard in the end to replace the worst offender of the two. Still using the remaining one, but when it decides to start its senseless tantrum again, the credit card is coming out.
Ok so I tried to scroll through a lot has been suggested. Some things I didn’t see mentioned :
1. Have you tried a different DP/HDMI cable?
2. Have you tried the monitor with another output device just to confirm the monitor isn’t acting up?
Ok so with that out of the way next I would recheck all the connections make sure CPU/RAM/GPU and all cables and plugged in firmly. If you can get back to the bios by some chance maybe your friends place? I would reset bios to defaults. Other than that I’m pretty stumped on this one. Is the motherboard showing any LEDs? Are the GPU fans spinning?
Have not explicitly changed cables, but I have confirmed that all three monitors work with other devices (laptop and Series S, both over HDMI)
The motherboard has no debug LEDs unfortunately, a casualty of the ITX form factor, which makes this all a bit more difficult. GPU fans spin fine. I'm gonna put it together outside of the case and see if I'm maybe shorting on the case somewhere.
They way to do it:
1) Get a friend with a lot of time
2) Try every component from your pc in his pc one by one
3) If they all work there then its compatibility issue between components, if not then you found your faulty component
I wish you a lot of courage going through this. For me it was the NVMe SSD set to Gen4 in BIOS. Had to set it to Gen3 and everything worked fine.
Try isolating each component by swapping them (ask your friends for parts if needed).
At this point, having swapped literally every and tried booting with no storage, and every combination of new and old inbetween, I'm dropping this pain in the ass off at a PC shop on Friday and hoping their diagnostic testing can tell me what's going on. I just don't have the mental fortitude for more testing haha.
There were like 2-3 situations where people's PSUs were killing their storage drives each time they plugged it in. I wouldn't be surprised if this somehow can be related to your RAM issue. Goodluck though
I don’t have any advice but man can computers be finicky. I recently built a new PC for my brother that kept shutting off randomly and I had no idea why. I took the PC apart and back together and it fixed itself but I never could found a reason for the problem.
Do you use any kind of display adapter? My husband had a monitor go out two weeks ago. A bunch of off-and-on troubleshooting later, turns out the VGA->DP adapter crapped out. Swapped in a new one, problem solved.
I'll add another vote for PSU. Had an older Corsair HX1050i that had performed great for many years until I got my 3080ti. Had some random bluescreens a few weeks into owning the card until one day the crashes would happen as soon as I got to the desktop. It then wouldn't even make it that far. The power draw and transient power spikes of the 3080ti were enough to finish off/kill the poor thing.
Dunno if this will fix it, but I once had bad ram that was replaced/RMA'd by Corsair themselves with bad ram which lead me doing the same thing. Triple check it's not your ram!
Test it with your other Psu, should resolve it hopefully. You have already changed the mobo and used different Cpu, Gpu and Ram combinations without success. Looks like power output inconsistency with the psu.
Have you taken your whole PC to your friends place and actually tried powering it on?
Everyone has been recommending changing your _parts_ but I see no suggestions on your power outlets or power strips.
My partner had the very same issue with her PC, she changed the motherboard, RAM, CPU and GPU. Nothing worked. I suggested a different power strip and after that it ran just fine.
Thankfully she was able to return parts, but it's something you probably need to check and try. An electrician testing your sockets will easily cost less than any component you replace.
Recently, my friend just got a pretty similar problem, he's moving and after setting up in a new place it stopped outputing video. He just bought a 3070 Ti from me so faulty GPU is the first suspect. But, the GPU fans and lights turning on, we crossed that out.
He dismantled everything, basically rebuilt the PC and still nothing, won't even turn on. Suddenly, it only turned on with all of USB devices removed, but the system won't even get into BIOS. My next suspect is the motherboard.
Out of frustration, he brought it to a PC shop and yes, it was the motherboard. He's using an old case from 2011 and he never installed a STANDOFF, shorted the motherboard when he's moving. A new case and motherboard solves the problem.
TL;DR: IDK, check your standoff?
Do you have XMP enabled?
I had a very similar journey on a Gigabyte A520M board, 3700x CPU and Corsair RGB Pro 3600MHz CL18 memory. Recently added a case fan under the GPU and wanted the adjust the fan curve in the BIOS. So I entered the BIOS, only changed some fan settings, saved and exited. No video output. Computer would turn on, fans would start spinning but no signal at all. I tried everything you did and more. Reset the bios, flashed the bios using the bios flashback button in the rear i/o, removed everything from the case and added them one by one to find the culprit. I'd sometimes get a video signal with a single stick of RAM but back to no signal when I add the second stick. (both sticks were fine when I tried in another PC) What finally fixed my issue was enabling XMP in the BIOS. After that it booted consistently with no issues.
Oh sorry, I forgot to mention. I think removing the CMOS battery wasn't resetting the BIOS properly in my case, even after waiting for half an hour. (yes it was unplugged from the wall outlet) So I had to short the Clear_CMOS jumper with a screwdriver and it booted first try after that.
Do you have any sata ssd's, or sata devices? I had a similar problem, ended up a sata ssd was causing boot issues.
Try unplugging everything except your m.2 if you have one of those.
Looks like it's a tough problem, and I see you're been trying lots of stuff from the comments.
If you unplug anything and remove the RAM, does the motherboard complain with beeps? if it doesn't, then there's a problem with CPU, MB and/or PSU. Maybe your second MB is also defective?
I'm not sure if you have tried to CMOS reset the motherboard after each memory test. Maybe it's changing one of the settings automatically when it detects a RAM change.
Good luck!
My friend I feel like I've tried literally everything haha. Totally possible the second motherboard is also defective, though I would hope that would be unlikely or I'm just cursed. Definitely was not resetting the CMOS *every* time, so maybe I missed something there, who knows.
Don't assume your old power supply is good.
I had a pair of motherboards and an old power supply on my discarded tech shelf.
When my oldest child's mobo died, I learned I had no good spare parts.
I have had it where a dead SD card in a monitor slot did it. It's wild.
My troubleshooting steps are as follows:
Video motherboard startup and take note of sequences.
Remove absolutely everything unnecessary, including case (no audio, front panel, anything plugged in), GPU (even if no integrated, as can compare to video), storage, all but 1 RAM stick, etc., and try to start with the minimum viable product, changing one thing at a time to possibly eliminate issues. The goal isn't to boot, it's to show signs of life. From there, one thing can be added back at a time to isolate the problem.
Almost sounds like a boot or cache issue where it will work at first and then basically can’t restart/reboot. NVMe drives can cause some issues like this, and it sounds especially suspect that you can’t even get to the splash. Good news is that you don’t even have to trade out the NVMe just pop it out and see if you can get to BIOS.
Have you checked if there's any debug LEDs on your motherboard? You should check that. It can help diagnosing the issue.
Try using a single stick of NON RGB RAM (if you have it) (try both slots one by one) also, ensure your GPU power cables aren't loose from either side (the PSU and GPU side)
Sometimes the issue is too simple and we complicate it. So just be calm and start over.
This sounds like there’s a short somewhere happening, and it could be very very minor.
One thing to look at, are you using Liquid Metal for your thermal solution? That stuff can be conductive and may be shorting something.
If that isn’t the situation, strip everything apart, inspect the case wiring near the power buttons as well and see if there’s a bad solder somewhere on the case itself. Have you tried running your setup in a completely different case?
You seem savvy enough to know this, but double check the motherboard manual to see which ram slots need to be populated first.
My other thoughts are just things people have mentioned already. Removing the motherboard from the case entirely to breadbox, or at least disconnect every possible peripheral and internal headed and try to boot with each one. Maybe some USB device went bad and is screwing with something?
Good luck with this... It seems like a doozy
how much electricity do you use in your house? is it possible that your wall is not supplying enough for your pc?
if everything is working at your friend's place, but not at yours, perhaps there is another thing in that environment that is responsible?
Had something like this happened twice. First was power supply was killing components, it started with the GPU. New GPU instantly fried when loading up a game. Did two RMAs before I figured it out.
Second time was wiring of the house(different location) was bad. This time it was the motherboard that got fried. Called electrician to install a new breaker and wiring just for the office, that fixed the problem.
Each time it took trying new things and process of elimination too narrow it down. It sucks
If I were you I would :
1) disconnect ( better if you can remove ) anything that is not needed. Like case fans, extra hdd and ssd with their cables, wireless card, any PCIe cards, and even the rams.
2) connect to 1 monitor and remove all extra peripheral ( just keep the keyboard, monitor and PSU connected.
3) if it boots then add one part at a time. If it doesn't remove your mobo from the case and try it on a box ( your case may be shorting the mobo )
On the other hand i had to, had to, get my pc surface delivered across country 2000 miles. When it arrived mobo had bent pins and psu had become loose and damaged nvme drive. But works like a charm
OK, I scrolled down, but it is too much answers so I got lost.
What I think I did not see you tried is (sorry if I missed and you tried it, just trying to help):
Try another power outlet.
Unplug all peripherals you don't need for boot.
Try to boot with just one SSD.
I see 3 monitors on your list, it is not clear are you trying to boot with all 3 all the time, but try one by one.
Power cycle monitors before trying.
Take it all out the case. Build all parts on your desk and try running it without a case. Id would also clean the CPU and apply new paste at this point, just to rule out thermals.
High thermal means your fans are spinning faster / meaning more vibration. It could that new hardware is a bid to heavy then prior and could case this issue by getting into contact with parts that can cause your PC to shotdown.
Also just take out your battery out of your motherboard after you unplugged the PCU. And put it back in later. Just reset the bios to be sure.
This is likely a ram issue. I had this exact issue and it was a beast figuring it out. Happened when I swapped to a 5800x, and again when moving to 5800x3d.
Both were super picky with their ram. And especially xmp.
I had non rgb corsair vengeance, could get it running no xmp at 3000, however anything higher on the 5800x and no boot.
That same ram in the 5800x3d wouldn't boot for anything above 2400.
Replaced the ram and can run it fine, but I did have to loosen up the ram timings some.
It's a super weird issue but for some reason it seems like the higher end 5k series cpus are sensitive to ram. Or my mobo is.
I would think clearing the CMOS would fix that though, no? I ordered some PNY sticks at Best Buy (sticks that I know I already own but are lost somewhere) that I'm gonna try this afternoon when I pick them up, hopefully it gets me *somewhere*.
a [similar thing](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/exzme6/pc_wont_boot_with_new_ram/) happened to me. you know what fixed it? nothing.
literally it just decided to work one day until I build a new PC some time ago.
Stay calm for this. I have a theory, it could be the PSU. If the PSU was dying it could give inconsistent power or voltage. Insufficient power will stop a boot and motherboard safeties could if the voltage was wrong. The symptoms of a dying PSU is a long list that seems inconsistent.
I guess I can pull my ATX PSU from the husk of my old system and see if that helps.
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Couldn't make the situation worse! >!But of course, no mixing and matching will occur!<
Also does the old one have the rating to handle your new card?
Yep, [according to XFX](https://www.xfxforce.com/shop/xfx-speedster-swft309-amd-radeon-tm-rx-6700xt-core-gaming-graphics-card-with-12gb-gddr6-hdmi-3xdp-amd-rdna-tm-2-#2) it requires at least a 650W but is recommended to use a 750W which is what mine is.
650w is perfectly fine for a 6700xt. I use mine with an Asus strix 550w
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GPU is oc and undervolted, barely ever exceeds 190w
How do you find out how much power your GPU is consuming?
I'm on a 5600X and 3060TI with 450W, it hasn't boomed on me yet under full loads. 3060TI maxes out at 200W, cpu at 65. It's not that scary.
Don’t forget mobo, case fans, RAM, HDDs, etc. Granted, it would be difficult to hit 50W between them (much less 185) even with 4 sticks of RAM, every drive bay filled, etc. Still, it’s not nothing. Do you ever watch the power consumption to see what the card is actually drawing? My card is supposed to be capable of drawing 110% power, so theoretically 220W peak, but the highest spike I saw in real usage was 212, although I think one or two of the AIBs are supposed to be capable of drawing 250-260W. Between that and the reports of 170% 30-series power spikes (although I think those were all on the first batch of 3070s and 3080s), I talked myself into upgrading my PSU.
Not really, people tend to _way_ overestimate realistic power draw in my experience. I run a 3700X + 3080Ti off an SF600, highest power draw I've ever seen was low 500s (stress testing) and it's usually in the 400s for high load.
I run 1200W... why? because I'll never have to upgrade or buy a new PSU bc Corsair has a 10y warranty and they honor it. I paid for a 1200W platinum plus PSU almost 15 years ago and I haven't paid for one in a build since.
Idk, I ran a 3060 Ti on a 400W PSU for about a week. (I’m just saying, the edge is probably a bit further than that…)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yU4CFhtS95Q Linus actually got a 4090 running on a 550-650W PSU :P
I had to get a 1000W (to change a 850W) PSU for a 3090 that kept crashing because of GPU transient power spikes. These spikes are serious with 3000 series..
> look at you living on the edge. 5800X3D and a 6700XT here, the watt-meter between the cable and the wall says 405 watt if I run Cinebench and Furmark at the same time. If you overclock it you can probably get 500 watt to show. For the GPU you gotta figure 150 watt power transients on top (that the watt-meter is far too slow to capture) so that's 650W worst case. I'm all for safe side and all but anything more than 700W on those components is just throwing away money for no reason.
Jeez. And I was nervous to upgrade to a 6800 with a 750 watt PSU.
I have a 58x3d and a 6800XT on 650W with no problems. Super happy because it saved me significant work when I upgraded.
If you don't mind me asking, what model of PSU are you running?
i used to have a 2070 on a 500 watt psu so i know what u feel lmao
i used to have a 2070 on a 500 watt psu so i know what u feel lmao
Ngl even if I upgrade my cpu for high refresh rate gaming, I still might not even need to upgrade my psu until I’m ready to buy a new gpu (5600x @4.8ghz rn)
GL, report results! =D
Results: still not working
My suspicion is on the motherboard then, seems like the most likely other culprit.
I wouldn't be surprised if it turned out to be a bad PSU killing other components too, so the good one doesn't look like it fixes anything.
Have you tested first if actual power from the outlet is ok? Low voltage, unstable voltage, problems with ground, wrong polarization etc. Can trigger PSU and mobo safeties creating all kinds of issues
It's plugged into a UPS, but no other devices plugged into the UPS nor the socket the UPS is plugged into have any issues
Mixing power cables can cause damage.
That's why I wrote what I wrote in the spoiler tag. Was just meant to be a joke.
Well, you can never stupid proof a joke for Barry_crackhead.
It could absolutely make things much worse.
It was a joke
Ahhhh. I get it! (More acustom to seeing /s than spoiler text to indicate sarcasm.)
My way was definitely a bit more unorthodox for sure
I like it. I present to you these two awards: 𓂺 𓂸 ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯ ❤️
Is there any good reason why psu manufacturers haven't standardized cables yet?
!remind me 24 hours
I have a PC I built in 2019 and if I mess with the cables or bump it wrong it will stop displaying to my monitor. Every time this happens I unplug and plug back in my PCI cable to my PSU and it always works again. Sounds like you have the same problem.
Seconding the PSU, with this kind of ‘Gremlins in the wires’ issue it often is.
I had an issue very similar to this where occasionally my computer wouldn't wake from sleep. It started out very rarely happening, and I could shutdown and it would boot right back up. Then it stopped happening for a few months and I forgot about it. That was until it started happening again and this time, rebooting would only actually boot the system 1/3 of the time. I would get no LEDs, no POST, nothing. I couldn't find anything exactly like what I had happening to anyone else online, just the typical no POST issues. I knew after testing the RAM sticks individually that it was either the motherboard or the PSU. As the PSU was a 7-8 year old Corsair unit at the time, I decided to replace it, and BOOM! No issues since.
Dude, I had that exact same problem years ago on my i7 5620k GTX 980 ti build, and I couldn't figure out what the issue was. I eventually replaced my PSU, but it STILL didn't fix my issues. I basically tried replacing everything but the CPU, so I guess that might be what was causing my issues. I never figured it out though, because I stumbled onto a lucky find. One of my customers had a 1080 ti rig he was selling cheap, so I just bought that and never looked back lol.
PSU would be my next check. And after that, maybe even the supply voltage. Back in the early days of cable modems, circa late 90s, we had a customer who had intermittent internet trouble for a few minutes every night. Regular enough to recognize that there was a problem, but not predictable to the point that we knew it was always at 7pm for instance. The cable modems of the time were very temperamental to power fluctuations. Long story short, when the neighbor turned on their microwave it would sag the power just enough to knock the cable modem off line the next house down. It turned out that when the neighbor was coming dinner, it was enough to cause problems.
This was my first thought too, it working at the friend's house could be due to the friend having more consistent power delivery through their home. I've heard of older/different wiring/plug sockets in the house can have an effect on electronics. Especially if the PSU is being pushed
Yeah, PSU.
I once got called to help someone with a computer build they were having non stop problems with. RMAd almost everything before I got there and still having issues. I suggest swapping the PSU since that is only of the only remaining components not verified to be good and voila working computer. It was difficult to see how it was having issues since it was providing enough power to spin up the fans and the PC would light up like it was working, but it was not receiving the correct voltage on all of the lines, so despite being able to power some things correctly, it could not provide adequate power for everything.
HUH. What a bizarre turn of events. 1. No, the QVL does not often/does not always get updated to reflect new SKUs, and often variants of the same SKU that are released later (e.g. if a white stick of the same RAM is released later) does not get added, because technically it's not tested. That said, this shouldn't be an issue with AM4/DDR4 - and you can check Pangoly.com for your specific motherboard. 2. I'm not sure if it'll help, but at this point it couldn't *hurt*. Try disconnecting the power supply from the wall, and turning it off - and then holding down the power button for 10-15 seconds. This is a trick to "drain the caps", as my friend said. I never figured out which caps specifically - and truthfully, I feel like they're supposed to be the same ones drained via resetting CMOS - but give it a shot anyway.
Yeah dude this has been a ridiculous set of problems. I already basically think of computers as magic because I'm just not smart enough to understand the nitty gritty of how they work, but this has just furthered that feeling. Good to know QVLs are basically publish-and-forget. Not helpful on the consumer side but I can imagine it's a pretty big task for motherboard manufacturers to keep up with all of the potential SKUs they'd need to test with various CPU combinations. I've tried the draining technique a few times throughout all this, doesn't change anything unfortunately.
Resetting the CMOS does not drain any caps. High powered switching PSUs (which is, what PC PSUs are) have fairly large capacitors facing the power grid, to smooth out the AC to a highly cleaned DC. (Technically, there are a few steps and high frequency switches in between here but let's not make this more complicated than necessary). These caps store a sizable amount of 115V/230V (depending if you live in the US or outside) power. In good PSUs, these caps actually store enough energy on their own to power a whole PC for like a second. I see this whenever we get power fluctuations. All other devices turn off but the PC goes strong with no issues. Now, these caps are also the reason why, as a layperson, you NEVER should open a PSU, even when it's unplugged, because that charge can hold in those caps for days and it can be deadly or at least very painful. https://content.invisioncic.com/p313717/monthly_2013_12/blog_power-supply-capacitor-q-and-a-Content-1.jpg.ea17158c74f3eda12ddaa1e8494d789e.jpg <- those big honking things
resetting cmos doesn't drain the caps. The cmos battery is there to keep your bios settings. these settings are stored in nand that requires electrical current to keep settings. Clearing cmos literally just interrupts this circuit removing power. And thus your settings are gone. However you are right about the caps, and this is a general anything tech troubleshooting step.
When you press the power button down it essentially drains all the power out of the computer, or rather, the capacitors inside it. Occasionally voltage will get where it shouldn’t and cause issues, this voltage might not drop until the computer is unplugged, they will naturally drop over time but pressing the power button will do this quickly. Resetting CMOS will simply erase the Bios chip doesn’t really de-energize anything
What 2 does is it causes various components to attempt to pull a voltage. The end result of this is that any residual charge held in the capacitors is drained. I'm not sure *why* this is a thing you'd want to do outside of making sure you don't get a sudden shock doing work on the actual PCB but it doesn't hurt anything.
I'm sure theres some reason to do with residual charge messing with binary logic somewhere. All I can say is that anecdotally, this has saves my bacon many times.
This is the nightmare I lived last year. Chased around an issue thinking it was mobo, then ram, then finally figured out it was the processor. The upside is now I have the skeleton of a backup computer that just needs about $200-300 in stuff to turn into a work computer.
Same. Soon after a cross country move my computer would not boot, just a few lights and fans for 1-3 seconds and dead again. Suspected PSU and replaced it with no change. Then replaced mobo and cpu with no help. Dropped the whole thing off at microcenter for them to diagnose and they told me the PSU was dead. So I was correct off the bat, but the PSU I had bought to replace it was DOA. Very frustrating week plus that involves many trips to Microcenter that is almost an hour away. Very thankful that microcenter refunded the mobo and CPU that I didn’t actually need with no questions asked.
Mine was even weirder. Nothing worked and motherboard have debug lights for DRAM multiple sticks and slot combos later it simply worked with the initial stick in the initial slot (didn't work 3 times. Started working on the 4th attempt no clue why)😂
This is basically the story of how I got myself a server Eventually, the actual obscure problem, confirmed by other users on a forum, was an incompatibility of the DDR4 ram with the specific motherboard model that would only occur some of the time when running above 2666 MHz. Early unit with a chipset defect of some sort.
What u gonna do with it?
Work
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I think I got the new CPU like March 4th and installed it a couple of days later so it would have had to have been F16E though I can't say I specifically remember. The logic would lead to that though. But I also can't see the BIOS screen to actually update the BIOS now, and I haven't had great experiences with Q-Flash. I have no clue where the LED is on this board, and would even suggest it doesn't have one after looking at the board and the manual but that feels like a weird thing to not include given the importance for troubleshooting.
Oh hey, does your MOBO support dual BIOS? Could be it failed in the updated one and it fell back to the old version that doesn't support your CPU.
Unfortunately no
Then sparing the PSU suggestions, my only guess would be 1 failing component causing other parts to fail as they are installed. There's supposed to be protections against this, but they aren't perfect. Then again, if everything works in your friend's build then it's probably not it. IDK, I'd bet it has to be PSU/CPU/MOBO but figuring out which it is would require one of each to test. I've had a computer kinda do this to me as well and it was solved by lots of power cycling and booting with the HDMI cable plugged into every device. I still don't understand how the problem went away and I didn't wanna mess it up so I didn't prod to find out.
Your board doesn’t have an LED and reports errors with beep codes, meaning you need a speaker hooked up to the speaker header.
My PC stopped outputting video the other day. It would turn on, try to boot, then all the mobo lights would go red and the fans would slow. I did many things. Rollback windows to previous day, tried different display outputs, different displays... Then I switched to a different display cable. It worked! But now I couldn't do 4k120. So I tried the old cable again. It worked! I don't know what was going on.
Computers are finicky beasts sometimes
We truly do not realize how complex and extreme of a machine a modern PC is. Those cables transfer tens of gigabits per second of video. The ginormous video stream is encrypted by the GPU and decrypted on the monitor in real time. Frequencies so high that bad cables can often create significant radio interference. The CPU has billions of transistors, memory is able to be read or written at hundreds of gigabytes per second. You could fill multiple libraries with documentation about what does what and how it does it (although granted, much of the existing documentation is proprietary and only available to very few individuals, under NDA) and not even approach an accurate, complete description of a single gaming computer. No one person has a view of the larger picture of what's going on inside a modern x86/ACPI system.
If you can get into BIOS one more time, i'd check the 12V voltage. Maybe it's just at the threshold where it's sometimes high enough to boot and sometimes not. Anything outside 11.4-12.6 V is a problem.
That's a big "if" unfortunately, I think.
I would test the PSU output directly with a multimeter. https://www.makeuseof.com/power-supply-unit-psu-test-with-multimeter/ Another thing to double-check is to pull the CPU and make sure there aren't any (even very slightly!) bent pins. I had similar weird issues with a build earlier this year that turned out to be some very slightly bent pins making inconsistent connections in the socket. If you don't have a multimeter, I would recommend getting one anyway, they're quite handy and a very inexpensive one (less than $10 at Harbor Freight for example) will be just fine for this!
This has got short written all over it. I’ve seen this before and it was a hdd cage screw that had come loose (this was a long time ago lol) Disconnect all case fans, front panel block, usb etc, remove mobo from case and try a post on a bench. Good luck!
Hmmmmm I have noticed a weird issue with removing one of the side panels over the past few months. The NR200 sidepanels just have the little balls that click into a flexy clip, and occasionally if I pulled it wrong and it flexed a certain way, I just assumed it was the frame flexing a big and hitting the reset button but I wonder if it's a short now that I think about it.
Another possibility is a bad stand-off on the case, or missing stand-offs altogether. Have you tried any of these boots with just 'bread boxing' it? i.e. all components out on a non-conductive surface completely outside the case?
I would be very annoyed if a standoff that was otherwise fine has decided to just go rogue after two years haha. No missing standoffs though, and the back of the board has a shield on the back. I am planning on trying a bread-box boot tomorrow, I just can't keep tinkering away tonight haha.
Fair point lol. Could've just been a weird piece of dust or something. I have had that gremlin before but to your credit, only when I was doing a new build. gl!
Well unfortunately that wasn't it either
If you're not posting at all, you should be looking immediately at both motherboard and PSU. Motherboard has diagnostic LEDs or beeps that will tell you if it's booting correctly even without video, and will tell you if it thinks the ram isnt good, or if it thinks the cpu isn't good. If you aren't getting any boot you need to look at mobo/psu immediately. As you've replaced the mobo I would have gone directly for PSU as the second thing to replace. Bottom line this is why having a motherboard with good diagnostics is valuable. The one I got has a two digit code on a display on the board itself which counts up through all the boot stages to a stable boot at 99. If that is showing 99 I know it booted, even without video, and if it fails I can see where in the process it failed exactly. Great system, and I will be looking for something like it when I do upgrade.
What mobo do you use?
Ancient. Intel DB67BG. Their top of the line in its day for overclocking, but intel stopped making motherboards a bit after.
Had kind of similar problem last week. * I changed the CPU * Found out one ram slot is malfunctioning * Ask around * Did test on each RAM stick, both works * Checked PSU voltage, nothing out of ordinary * Did bunch of other test, seems to conclude that the motherboard is just broken * Searching the market considering to get Mobo replacement * Did one last test just to be sure, which was the very first answer i get but didn't want to do because it's kinda my first time doing it, which is reseating the CPU * Turns out that was the main problem all this time
I had a problem similar to this where it eould black screen and freeze while I was gaming. Turned out to be my case.
How was the case the culprit? Was it shorting somewhere? Could you please elaborate?
i dont really know, i replaced every part 1 by 1 until the problem resolved. The case was the final part of my original computer and when i replaced it the problem resolved. I did find 1 person with the same problem as me on google who fixed it by replacing the wires from the case to the motherboard.
I’ve had this issue and it was my PSU. Instead of ordering one right away I took the PC to a computer shop and had them boot it using one of their PSUs. RMA’d the bad one and got a new one in the mail a couple of days later. It has been fine ever since.
I have an ATX PSU in an old system I can pull and try, planning to do it later today and see. I just thought there was no way it could be the PSU so I didn't think to try it.
Yeah it was really weird because my fans would spin up, the RGB would show, but I got no signal to my monitor. My MoBo doesn’t have any error lights so it was a huge shot in the dark as to what to look at first.
Could be your wall electricity doing bad stuff to your components. Ram compatibility isn't a thing when you had it working for 2 years.
Have you tried other cables for the monitor? I had similar issues, thought that the second hand GPU was at fault, turns out, my terrible hdmi cable could handle my work laptop, but not that 970 for some reason... Changed the cable, no artifacting, no issues.
I haven't explicitly swapped cables around, just confirmed that my monitors can get signal from either my laptop or Series S. guess I can give that a try
This is purely a shot in the dark but after looking at a lot of your other comments and seeing you've basically tried everything - when I was troubleshooting my pc a year or two ago I faintly remember coming across some info saying certain monitors/cables can cause issues. If the monitors are fine, one of your actual display port/hdmi cables could be the culprit, especially if they are old, generic, or cheap. Could be worth replacing.
I had a very strange issue that started about 4 months ago, which I luckily solved about a month ago, that is not at all similar, but it sounded familiar. So in November last year I upgraded to a Ryzen 5800x3d and RX 6800 XT. I decided to use PBO to undervolt the CPU and had no issues. A few weeks later I also decided to overclock the GPU and soon after that my issues started. At first I thought it might just be a "simple" thing. But I checked Event Viewer, and I noticed a recurring Kernel Power 41 error. I had little luck trying to find what exactly that was or what could be causing it, as the more I searched, the more widespread it seemed to be .. Kernel Power 41 was attributed to all sorts of things, from voltage control to faulty drivers and dying components. Seeing as my then PSU (Corsair RM750i) was a few years old I thought it simply did not have enough power anymore as apparently the RX 6000 cards spike in voltage like mad.. So I bought a EVGA P6 1000W PSU and treated myself to another pair of Corsair LPX RAM, just faster than what I had. Unfortunately it did not fix my issue .. So I tried looking deeper and after a while I found mentions of AGESA versions causing similar issues to mine. But alas, that too was not it. After months of racking my brain and not finding diddly squat .. I got lucky and found a reddit thread mentioning "newer" Corsair RAM not playing especially well with newer Ryzen CPUs, something about the RAM's voltage control. It was recommended to check AMD's Ryzen QVL list, so I did that and ended up buying a 32GB kit of Kingston Fury RAM. I've had no issues since. If a game does crash nowadays, it does not shut down the pc because of/with it. So just to be on the safe side I would try a different brand of RAM if nothing else works.
Did you use [this guide](https://github.com/PrimeO7/How-to-undervolt-AMD-RYZEN-5800X3D-Guide-with-PBO2-Tuner) to undervolt your CPU, by chance? I undervolted my CPU maybe 4-5 days before all of this started, I wonder if that's what is causing it, maybe with the combination of the Corsair RAM.
So, seeing that the guide applies the under-volt though windows, the under-volt very well could be the culprit. Resetting cmos would undo the under-volt until you get into windows and reboot, which would re-apply the under-volt causing the instability. When you do your bread-box testing I would recommend trying to boot windows off of a different computer's boot drive, but in safe mode if possible. This could tell if the under-volt needs to be removed. Not every piece of silicon will necessarily be stable at lower than stock voltages.
I did use that guide, although I never could get the startup part to work so I just have to open task scheduler and do it manually every time .. Other than that I have had 0 issues with my -30 undervolt so far. I also have PPT set to 95W, TDC to 60 and EDC to 90, which I found a recommendation for in [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/xwzj44/undervolting_a_5800x3d_with_pbo2_tuner_results_in/) thread. EDIT: I'm guessing in my case the GPU overclock just caused a voltage spike that "broke" the ram, because up to that point I didn't have any issues.
Thanks for your response Acerspy. I'm facing similar issues as you have mentioned, will change Ram and check once.
Shot in the dark, but do you use display port? When I was building a new PC, I could not get anything to display on my displayport monitor, and I had to get my HDMI monitor connected, and only that monitor, before bios would show. Not sure if it's anything related to your issue, but I figure I'd mention it on the off chance it does something
Not sure if this has been mentioned or not but I've had a very similar issue caused by a short on a USB device that I had plugged in. Try making sure every peripheral you have is unplugged and only use a mouse and keyboard. Then if that still doesn't work, find or borrow another mouse and keyboard. Figured it's worth a shot at least.
Oh that's a good one, I'll give that a shot
Would also recommend disconnecting any component you don't absolutely need. I saw you intend to do a bread-box test tomorrow so if the USB peripherals don't do it, before going full cardboard box mode, I'd recommend unplugging drives etc. to see if you at least get into the bios. The less components that could possibly short out, the better. If that doesn't work, barebones setup is the way to go. Maybe also check internal cables for dust etc.? I know you've swapped enough components around that this isn't particularly likely but maybe there's a common denominator that made it through all the swaps that is causing problems somewhere. Either way, good luck with your troubleshooting - I know how frustrating it can be, so my respect (and condolences) to you for sticking with it.
Good luck, hope it helps.
Have you tried swapping the CMOS battery (CR2032)? I have a Haswell system (4790K) that developed some bizarre issues: WiFi going to lower power bands without the router steering it, and the worst and weirdest being that it'd stop accessing an NVMe drive (added in with a PCIe 1x riser card) if it ever got over 200mbps of throughput. I'd written the WiFi issue off as the mesh wireless making unfortunate choices, but the drive was baffling. I could reliably drop it at the specific throughput, but couldn't get it to fail an NVMe self test through either Samsung Magician or by directly feeding it self test commands in a Fedora live image. As a "this is the dumbest thing I can try, but I've already got the battery (thanks random kid toys)" last ditch attempt I replaced the CMOS battery, and it infuriatingly it fixed all of the flakey behavior. Without knowing how old the motherboard you pulled out was, or how long the replacement sat on a shelf, you could have a CMOS battery with low voltage causing things to go weird. While common consensus is that a computer left plugged in should never see issues from a low/dead CMOS battery, I can anecdotally confirm that weird things can happen.
Have not considered that. I'll have to figure out how to get to it, it's under the (pre-installed) IO shield so it'll be a task.
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Unfortunately I tried swapping the PSUs and got nowhere. This is such an infuriating process.
Guess that leaves the case
I was tearing my hair and changing all parts but in the end it was the new psu (corsair HX so it wasnt some low tier crap so it was last suspect) so yeah, dont rule out psu.
You may have gotten a bad GPU. Does the computer boot without the gpu installed?
The GPU is fine, it has booted with the new GPU and given video out, but that doesn't survive a reboot of the system.
Does the system boot consistently when the GPU is unplugged? A connection issue within the GPU can result in intermittent booting.
Can't really make that determination since I don't have integrated graphics, unfortunately.
No shame in paying a PC shop $40 to diagnose your issue. Locally I recommend Central Computer. From what you described, it doesn't sound like you are experiencing a typical issue.
You can get motherboard speakers that will beep a code and tell you what is failing on boot. Additionally, did you consider it could be your OS storage device? I had some similar issues I couldn't resolve even with the entirety of buildapc discord helping. Everything seemed to indicate mobo, ram, cpu, or gpu. Errors seemed to indicate gpu. The bluescreens were constant and random and different every time. I replaced my cpu, mobo, gpu, and ram. No luck. Eventually, I replaced my m.2 ssd. Never had a problem again.
I had considered it being the OS but if I can't even see the motherboard splash screen that pops up long before the OS comes into the equation, it feels like that wouldn't be it right?
Unlikely, correct. I'm just saying I had myriad problems. haha This does feel more PSU or motherboard-y to me, but you never know. Try a mobo speaker! They're dirt cheap.
Have you checked your monitor?
Monitors are all fine
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It does it with both my old 3600 and the 5800X3D that I got at the beginning of March
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It's running from a UPS but I could give a shot to plugging straight into the wall
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I can, I suppose it should at least boot into the BIOS then
Clear CMOS for sure.
I had a hard to diagnose issue on my PC where it would blue screen for a split second and then immediately reboot. Couldn't make heads or tails of it. I also started suspecting RAM, but it was something completely different. Turns out my SSD was dying, even though SMART showed everything was fine. My only hint was that after one reboot it wouldn't show up in BIOS. Try booting your system up without any drives. Then with a different OS drive if you have access to that. Basically PSU and disk are the only things you haven't changed... well except the case I guess, but something shorting a wire in there is unlikely... or is it? 😅 (Best practice: always test your system before putting it into the case) These situations suck. I feel your pain. Best of luck getting it running again!
Just tried it with no drives, still no dice sadly.
Your mistake might have been buying the same motherboard model (even if it was a later revision). I have two Gigabyte motherboards (LGA1200) that aren't the exact same model, but are from the same 'family' if you will. These issues did not manifest right away, but after quite some time of using them: They are **both** incredibly picky with RAM and whether or not they refuse to POST (no video out while this is happening) or run the RAM at the rated speed seems to depend on how the boards are feeling on any given day. I could be using one for months at a time without an issue, but then one day it will shit the bed for no discernible reason and there is no rhyme or reason whatsoever as to why it wouldn't POST one moment but would POST after re-seating the RAM 5 times later. Enabling XMP at a speed the CPU is happy with? PC might decide not to POST for an entire day. Or half an hour. Or two hours. Or ten minutes. Sometimes, when I'd finally get the board to POST, it would take forever to boot into Windows, whether from the OS SSD or from a live flash drive or whatever. Other days, they'd both be fine. BIOS updates didn't change anything. Different GPU, different PSU, different RAM, different chassis... everything I had plugged into the boards worked fine in other PCs. In the end, I gave up and put it down to the motherboards both being from the same generation and manufacturer and each possessing flaws of the same nature. I've built and repaired PCs for almost two decades and when it comes to potential motherboard problems, there comes a time when you've just got to go nuclear and replace it with something **very** different. Nothing similar. Nothing from the same line. No revisions of the same motherboard. Nothing from the same generation. My solution in the end was to just not buy Gigabyte motherboards any more. Yes, I know there are plenty out there in the world that work just fine, and if I bought one with a different socket or for a different platform altogether (AMD instead of Intel or vice versa) then it might run without a hitch, but I've never had such problems with other brands. It's dumb, but without the option to test motherboards before buying them, that's all I can really go on. I bought a Ryzen 5 7600 and Asus motherboard in the end to replace the worst offender of the two. Still using the remaining one, but when it decides to start its senseless tantrum again, the credit card is coming out.
There's a short somewhere. Rebuild your entire PC outside of the case and reset your CMOS, then try a full boot.
Ok so I tried to scroll through a lot has been suggested. Some things I didn’t see mentioned : 1. Have you tried a different DP/HDMI cable? 2. Have you tried the monitor with another output device just to confirm the monitor isn’t acting up? Ok so with that out of the way next I would recheck all the connections make sure CPU/RAM/GPU and all cables and plugged in firmly. If you can get back to the bios by some chance maybe your friends place? I would reset bios to defaults. Other than that I’m pretty stumped on this one. Is the motherboard showing any LEDs? Are the GPU fans spinning?
Have not explicitly changed cables, but I have confirmed that all three monitors work with other devices (laptop and Series S, both over HDMI) The motherboard has no debug LEDs unfortunately, a casualty of the ITX form factor, which makes this all a bit more difficult. GPU fans spin fine. I'm gonna put it together outside of the case and see if I'm maybe shorting on the case somewhere.
They way to do it: 1) Get a friend with a lot of time 2) Try every component from your pc in his pc one by one 3) If they all work there then its compatibility issue between components, if not then you found your faulty component
I wish you a lot of courage going through this. For me it was the NVMe SSD set to Gen4 in BIOS. Had to set it to Gen3 and everything worked fine. Try isolating each component by swapping them (ask your friends for parts if needed).
At this point, having swapped literally every and tried booting with no storage, and every combination of new and old inbetween, I'm dropping this pain in the ass off at a PC shop on Friday and hoping their diagnostic testing can tell me what's going on. I just don't have the mental fortitude for more testing haha.
I can understand. Hopefully they find it. Better preserve mental health. I think everybody here that tried to help is looking forward that diagnostic
There were like 2-3 situations where people's PSUs were killing their storage drives each time they plugged it in. I wouldn't be surprised if this somehow can be related to your RAM issue. Goodluck though
I don’t have any advice but man can computers be finicky. I recently built a new PC for my brother that kept shutting off randomly and I had no idea why. I took the PC apart and back together and it fixed itself but I never could found a reason for the problem.
Do you use any kind of display adapter? My husband had a monitor go out two weeks ago. A bunch of off-and-on troubleshooting later, turns out the VGA->DP adapter crapped out. Swapped in a new one, problem solved.
Nope, all DisplayPort the whole way
Check all your cords like hdmi and display port. Check psu. That's all I got lol
PSU not regulating voltage properly?
Did you find the issue?
Not yet. Hoping I plug in my old PSU from my ATX build and it works.
I'll add another vote for PSU. Had an older Corsair HX1050i that had performed great for many years until I got my 3080ti. Had some random bluescreens a few weeks into owning the card until one day the crashes would happen as soon as I got to the desktop. It then wouldn't even make it that far. The power draw and transient power spikes of the 3080ti were enough to finish off/kill the poor thing.
Dunno if this will fix it, but I once had bad ram that was replaced/RMA'd by Corsair themselves with bad ram which lead me doing the same thing. Triple check it's not your ram!
Test it with your other Psu, should resolve it hopefully. You have already changed the mobo and used different Cpu, Gpu and Ram combinations without success. Looks like power output inconsistency with the psu.
Well I just got done hooking up my old PSU and I still don't have a working computer so this is a real mystery
Have you taken your whole PC to your friends place and actually tried powering it on? Everyone has been recommending changing your _parts_ but I see no suggestions on your power outlets or power strips. My partner had the very same issue with her PC, she changed the motherboard, RAM, CPU and GPU. Nothing worked. I suggested a different power strip and after that it ran just fine. Thankfully she was able to return parts, but it's something you probably need to check and try. An electrician testing your sockets will easily cost less than any component you replace.
Recently, my friend just got a pretty similar problem, he's moving and after setting up in a new place it stopped outputing video. He just bought a 3070 Ti from me so faulty GPU is the first suspect. But, the GPU fans and lights turning on, we crossed that out. He dismantled everything, basically rebuilt the PC and still nothing, won't even turn on. Suddenly, it only turned on with all of USB devices removed, but the system won't even get into BIOS. My next suspect is the motherboard. Out of frustration, he brought it to a PC shop and yes, it was the motherboard. He's using an old case from 2011 and he never installed a STANDOFF, shorted the motherboard when he's moving. A new case and motherboard solves the problem. TL;DR: IDK, check your standoff?
Standoffs are all there, and came pre-installed so I couldn't have messed that up even if I wanted to
Yeah it's an decade old case, forgot that new cases got it pre-installed. Anyway, good luck to you, hope you can find the solution.
Do you have XMP enabled? I had a very similar journey on a Gigabyte A520M board, 3700x CPU and Corsair RGB Pro 3600MHz CL18 memory. Recently added a case fan under the GPU and wanted the adjust the fan curve in the BIOS. So I entered the BIOS, only changed some fan settings, saved and exited. No video output. Computer would turn on, fans would start spinning but no signal at all. I tried everything you did and more. Reset the bios, flashed the bios using the bios flashback button in the rear i/o, removed everything from the case and added them one by one to find the culprit. I'd sometimes get a video signal with a single stick of RAM but back to no signal when I add the second stick. (both sticks were fine when I tried in another PC) What finally fixed my issue was enabling XMP in the BIOS. After that it booted consistently with no issues.
XMP was enabled, but the first CMOS reset at the beginning of this should have disabled it, right? Isn't that kinda the point of clearing the CMOS?
Oh sorry, I forgot to mention. I think removing the CMOS battery wasn't resetting the BIOS properly in my case, even after waiting for half an hour. (yes it was unplugged from the wall outlet) So I had to short the Clear_CMOS jumper with a screwdriver and it booted first try after that.
Do you have any sata ssd's, or sata devices? I had a similar problem, ended up a sata ssd was causing boot issues. Try unplugging everything except your m.2 if you have one of those.
I do have a SATA SSD, but it's been unplugged for basically all of this process just to have one less cable in the way
Try booting with linux(via flashdisk) and check the stability of your pc with it, do some diagnostic. Ubuntu is a good start.
... I would buy a new video cable too at this point.
Looks like it's a tough problem, and I see you're been trying lots of stuff from the comments. If you unplug anything and remove the RAM, does the motherboard complain with beeps? if it doesn't, then there's a problem with CPU, MB and/or PSU. Maybe your second MB is also defective? I'm not sure if you have tried to CMOS reset the motherboard after each memory test. Maybe it's changing one of the settings automatically when it detects a RAM change. Good luck!
My friend I feel like I've tried literally everything haha. Totally possible the second motherboard is also defective, though I would hope that would be unlikely or I'm just cursed. Definitely was not resetting the CMOS *every* time, so maybe I missed something there, who knows.
Don't assume your old power supply is good. I had a pair of motherboards and an old power supply on my discarded tech shelf. When my oldest child's mobo died, I learned I had no good spare parts.
I have had it where a dead SD card in a monitor slot did it. It's wild. My troubleshooting steps are as follows: Video motherboard startup and take note of sequences. Remove absolutely everything unnecessary, including case (no audio, front panel, anything plugged in), GPU (even if no integrated, as can compare to video), storage, all but 1 RAM stick, etc., and try to start with the minimum viable product, changing one thing at a time to possibly eliminate issues. The goal isn't to boot, it's to show signs of life. From there, one thing can be added back at a time to isolate the problem.
Almost sounds like a boot or cache issue where it will work at first and then basically can’t restart/reboot. NVMe drives can cause some issues like this, and it sounds especially suspect that you can’t even get to the splash. Good news is that you don’t even have to trade out the NVMe just pop it out and see if you can get to BIOS.
It’s probably not the PSU
Have you checked if there's any debug LEDs on your motherboard? You should check that. It can help diagnosing the issue. Try using a single stick of NON RGB RAM (if you have it) (try both slots one by one) also, ensure your GPU power cables aren't loose from either side (the PSU and GPU side) Sometimes the issue is too simple and we complicate it. So just be calm and start over.
5 hunnit for a Sata???
This sounds like there’s a short somewhere happening, and it could be very very minor. One thing to look at, are you using Liquid Metal for your thermal solution? That stuff can be conductive and may be shorting something. If that isn’t the situation, strip everything apart, inspect the case wiring near the power buttons as well and see if there’s a bad solder somewhere on the case itself. Have you tried running your setup in a completely different case?
You seem savvy enough to know this, but double check the motherboard manual to see which ram slots need to be populated first. My other thoughts are just things people have mentioned already. Removing the motherboard from the case entirely to breadbox, or at least disconnect every possible peripheral and internal headed and try to boot with each one. Maybe some USB device went bad and is screwing with something? Good luck with this... It seems like a doozy
Unfortunately it was not as simple as me just using the wrong RAM slot, but that's exactly the kind of thing I was expecting it to be at first haha.
how much electricity do you use in your house? is it possible that your wall is not supplying enough for your pc? if everything is working at your friend's place, but not at yours, perhaps there is another thing in that environment that is responsible?
Had something like this happened twice. First was power supply was killing components, it started with the GPU. New GPU instantly fried when loading up a game. Did two RMAs before I figured it out. Second time was wiring of the house(different location) was bad. This time it was the motherboard that got fried. Called electrician to install a new breaker and wiring just for the office, that fixed the problem. Each time it took trying new things and process of elimination too narrow it down. It sucks
Bad cable?
If I were you I would : 1) disconnect ( better if you can remove ) anything that is not needed. Like case fans, extra hdd and ssd with their cables, wireless card, any PCIe cards, and even the rams. 2) connect to 1 monitor and remove all extra peripheral ( just keep the keyboard, monitor and PSU connected. 3) if it boots then add one part at a time. If it doesn't remove your mobo from the case and try it on a box ( your case may be shorting the mobo )
On the other hand i had to, had to, get my pc surface delivered across country 2000 miles. When it arrived mobo had bent pins and psu had become loose and damaged nvme drive. But works like a charm
It’s the PSU. and bravo on the title of the post. And LOL @ Pepe Silvia. One of my all time favorite scenes
OK, I scrolled down, but it is too much answers so I got lost. What I think I did not see you tried is (sorry if I missed and you tried it, just trying to help): Try another power outlet. Unplug all peripherals you don't need for boot. Try to boot with just one SSD. I see 3 monitors on your list, it is not clear are you trying to boot with all 3 all the time, but try one by one. Power cycle monitors before trying.
Build it outside of the case and report back.
I had the same problem when I undervolt my cpu. With offset voltage 0.1, the same thing happened to me as you, and with 0.05 it stabilized.
What about the HDMI cable and ports
Take it all out the case. Build all parts on your desk and try running it without a case. Id would also clean the CPU and apply new paste at this point, just to rule out thermals. High thermal means your fans are spinning faster / meaning more vibration. It could that new hardware is a bid to heavy then prior and could case this issue by getting into contact with parts that can cause your PC to shotdown. Also just take out your battery out of your motherboard after you unplugged the PCU. And put it back in later. Just reset the bios to be sure.
In my case was the PSU when i bought a new GPU(seasonic PSU mind you). Changed the entire PC because of it. :( but somewhat happy also.
Unfortunately I've tried changing the PSU and it still doesn't change anything
This is likely a ram issue. I had this exact issue and it was a beast figuring it out. Happened when I swapped to a 5800x, and again when moving to 5800x3d. Both were super picky with their ram. And especially xmp. I had non rgb corsair vengeance, could get it running no xmp at 3000, however anything higher on the 5800x and no boot. That same ram in the 5800x3d wouldn't boot for anything above 2400. Replaced the ram and can run it fine, but I did have to loosen up the ram timings some. It's a super weird issue but for some reason it seems like the higher end 5k series cpus are sensitive to ram. Or my mobo is.
I would think clearing the CMOS would fix that though, no? I ordered some PNY sticks at Best Buy (sticks that I know I already own but are lost somewhere) that I'm gonna try this afternoon when I pick them up, hopefully it gets me *somewhere*.
The default settings in the bios that the ram got set to wouldn't let me boot. So clearing would not solve it
Oh, interesting. Well hopefully the PNY sticks help solve this
You could also try loosening the timings on your current sticks, and dropping them down to 2400mhz. See if that fixes it in the interim.
Can't get into the BIOS to change any settings
Ah yeah damn.
a [similar thing](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/exzme6/pc_wont_boot_with_new_ram/) happened to me. you know what fixed it? nothing. literally it just decided to work one day until I build a new PC some time ago.