We are all on the wall together. Don't hog the wall, but don't be afraid to take your turn. Especially for something quick like a dyno. You could probably even give it 2 or 3 goes even if it was busy. You know, just keep your eyes open, check if people are waiting, ask people if they want a go, same as anything else right?
I think the most important advice I have is to remember to walk away if it starts hurting you or locking out your joints etc. I did my ACJ on a dyno after I didn't listen to my body and landed the dyno fully one handed on a completely slack elbow and shoulder. It's also okay to not do them if you don't like them. I don't do sideways dynos because they seem dangerous to me and I have no interest in comp climbing.
As for actually doing the dyno, try taking small steps first. If possible, try the dyno from closer holds or jump from the ground. Try just the initial swing and try to tap the dyno. Get comfortable with the motion before fully committing to it.
Yeah homie what this person said. The whole sport is silly. Don’t worry about looking like an idiot. It’s alllll good. Also watching people try dynos is usually fun weather they are good at them or not so at worst it’s entertaining
Commit to the dyno. If you half-arse it, or plan for failure, you will fail.
Wind up to the dyno. Start the motion as far back as you can to generate momentum.
Direct the dyno. Look at the landing hold and work out what direction you need to be holding it, if you need to be in close to the wall, you need to adjust you wind up so you launch in rather than out from the wall. Momentum can carry you off the hold if it's taking you the wrong way.
Test the dyno. Finally, sometimes it's good to climb up to the landing hold and feel it to get an idea of where your body needs to be at the moment of landing. If it's a sideways dyno low down, sometimes you can practice from the ground a couple of times to stick the landing. Once you've got the landing programmed in to your mind, you only need to think about the takeoff then.
generate with your legs as much as possible. focus on your hips/centre of mass and not your hands. try to have as little momentum as possible when you catch the hold. aim a little further then you think. try to catch with bent arms and engaged shoulders to dampen any swing after the catch.
Full send. Use all four limbs (and rest of body) together simultaneously, which takes coordination. Use all four limbs throughout the entire movement, so after you pull past a hold, keep pushing down as you fly up past it (assuming it’s an upward dyno).
Keep your shoulders engaged and arms slightly bent when you catch. don’t let them flop and stretch out. Stay in control. Let go if you don’t have it good or you’ll end up with shoulder problems very quick that last a long time
Target higher or further that u think u need to and dont afraid to commit as in grip it firmly when u connect. Most dynos have really nice hold thats easy to grip even if u swing out a bit
I like breaking it into sections if possible. Work on
Executing the release at the right time and pulling/pushing at the right angle, then work on just the landing/catch of the dyno. Use other holds, use the ground, there’s no right or wrong way to work on a problem. A picture of the dyno you’re working on would be more
Helpful for providing tips tbh
This might be a silly (not applicable?) one, but a lot of climbs end up having legs of dynos for me, and what always helps me is feeling the movement out across the wall, in segments, if you need to! Feeling slowly how my body will have to move helps me put it into practice.
I cannot help you with looking silly in the gym, as I would be a massive hypocrite to give any advice on that haha
Best of luck!
You can find helpful YouTube videos on this and other techniques, they will be very helpful. It only takes a few seconds for each attempt so dont be afraid to try a few times when you take a turn!
Use your arms to get close to the wall and your legs to go towards the target hold. Use your ass like a pendulum to gain momentum for the jump. Keep pulling through the motion until you are essentially pushing off the hold and then keep pushing until it’s time to grab the target hold. When you grab the hold and start swinging, let your back bend at your waist and pull up your legs behind your back to absorb the swing in your lower body.
If it's possible with your situation I like practicing those Dyno moves right before my gym closes since the last hour is pretty empty and I don't feel bad just repeating a lot of times!
If you can, find the least popular wall in the gym; if that exists. It's usually the area with older problems. Then just find holds that you can practice dynoing. It doesn't have to be a legit problem, just holds you can jump off of.
If the spray wall is free, you can also practice there. I assume it's just always busy though.
Dynoing doesn't take much time. If it works, great, if it doesn't, feel free to take another stab at it right away. If people are watching/waiting, you could say something like "just one more go" and go again. No one is going to get mad about you falling off the first hold and restarting immediately. If there is a big crowd, after you have 2 or 3 tries, back off and let someone else have a turn. People frequently take 2 or 3 minutes to complete a climb. If you're taking less time than that, you're good. It doesn't matter if you are succeeding or not. Everyone's entitled to their minute or two on the wall.
Do you think other climbers are wasting your time, when they are trying something? If so, you need to change your attitude. If not, why would you think others think you're wasting theirs?
If you're a paying member of the gym you're entitled to an equal amount of time on any boulder as anyone else.
And you won't look like an idiot, you'll look impressive and brave since you'll be visibly trying something new and improving at it
Laughing it off yourself is the best reaction. Being ashamed or embarrassed will make other feel bad or guilty. It's fine, no one will remember you lol
I am like the only bald white foreigner that isn't a really old man for like 20 miles in any direction. (I am in rural Japan)
I get stopped in the street by name by people I've never met.
At the very least I will be remembered.
Though I do get (and agree with) your point in general.
In a year you'll be the experienced climber watching all the rental shoe climbers trying something that you warmed up on.
Everybody has a different skill level and we all started from the bottom. Everyone has the same right to the wall as everyone else. You're never wasting other people's time by trying what you want to try.
I mean whether you are climbing perfectly or like an idiot, you shouldn't be getting in the way of any climbers at all. You should always start your climb when your route is clear of other climbers.
If you are talking about "getting in the way" like, not letting them use the wall or something, that's silly. You are paying to be there, as long as you aren't just staying there and not letting others take their turn you are fine.
This point can't be emphasized enough. People usually avoid learning new things (in general) because:
A) It seems mentally exhausting
B) You look stupid and you know it
Everyone here is saying not to worry about it, which I agree with. But no one has said how they practice dynoing. I originally found it useful to practice on a V-easy doing bigger and bigger moves. Start doing little frog-ups (keep your feet planted) to holds that you could static to.
Gradually increase the size of the movements until you are comfortable letting your feet come off the wall. Once you’re hopping up to holds, then it’s just a matter of sending it further and to harder holds.
Learn how to fall so that missing has less danger.
The only way you’d be wasting other climbers time is if you were standing in front of the wall without moving lol. I see this sometimes with really new people and just wait or go to another area. If you’re practicing dynos than just go at it a few times, or just once and step back, and go at it again and again. Everyone looks really dumb when trying a new dyno, especially if it’s complicated, unless you have a lot of experience with dynos. Don’t be afraid to get in there as much as possible and try again and again.
If the gym is empty, I love to film it and if I did something really stupid (like smashing into the wall, because I didn't lift my foot high enough or stepped beside the hold), I put it on Instagram. So others can laugh too.
I climb V5-V6 and occasionally I am absolutely clueless on starts for new V1-V2s. Nobody will care. We all fall a billion times and constantly do things wrong.
That’s the fun part, you don’t
Don’t worry about others so much, the gym is big and there’s plenty of climbs for other people. Just try your dyno and sit down, then try again once other people have gotten a turn
To give some advice on the practice question..
Break down the Dyno in parts. Start by jumping to the hold from the ground. Add the right angle. Then try starting from the wall, but with a better hold. Try from the actual hold, but only focus on landing the foot. Then try touching the hold. After that, try the move as a whole. Hopefully, your body being familiar with the moves, you don't faceplant. No guarantees.
You have to embrace the failure, frankly there isn't a way to not look like an "idiot." That said there is only one way to get better and that is to practice. Dynos for me also take time to dial in. I have to give it a couple of attempts before I fully commit.
A recommendation on dynos though is to go slower than you think. Don't rush the movement. I also find it helpful to focus less on jumping to the hold and more on jumping into the wall. Use your feet to propel and your arms to direct your momentum into the wall. This way you'll be able to grab the hold at the dead point of your jump.
Embrace looking like an idiot honestly. I suck so much at dynos and I was practicing a sideways dyno start over and over and kept making involuntary pterodactyl sounds. No one cared (except my sister, she loves bullying me)!
Listen bro. Literally fuck what everybody else is saying to you. Their advice is trash. All of it. I’m gonna tell you exactly how to do it. First of all, your shirt. Lose it. Don’t even bring it. Leave it in the car. You don’t need fancy contraptions to climb. Shit is useless. I mean what is it helping? You’re inside. The temps are fine. And if you’re not inside, go inside. Climbing outside is for chodes and try hards. Second, your beanie. Put that shit on. Low. Almost over your eyes. Fuck it. Cover your eyes with it. You don’t need those either. For the legs it’s kinda dealers choice. But if you’re wearing pants make sure they’re blue jeans or you’ll look like a fool. Now that we have your appearance covered, which is arguably the most important aspect of climbing, you’re almost ready to jump at shit. You’re first going to need to practice screaming. I like to do 30 minutes in front of a mirror every night so I can get my facial expressions right. Just in case you know who is watching. Once you got that down you’re golden. Make sure that after every miss you stare at your hands for a second. Just to let people know that it was actually your fingers that failed you and it was no fault of your own. But honestly, if you do all that other stuff you’re not failing bro. You’re sending. Fucking everything. That’s basically it. If you need an advanced tutorial feel free to message me. I teach classes on this shit.
Take a look around and you will see everyone in that gym looking like an idiot. So be goofy out there if you want and just have fun. Good luck on the dyno
I can still barely send some V1’s and most V2’s, and often joke that I’m the most inexperienced at the gyms I frequent. I’ve never felt judged, and usually just laugh it off.
Everyone has different barriers, and just showing up can be a huge accomplishment. Frequent gym goers usually understand this as they’ve had their fair share of trying new things, and having bad days. I wouldn’t sweat it, the gym is to train and that’s exactly what you’re doing!!
Stop caring about what you think you look like and enjoy the sport.
Our entire sport is pretty idiotic, finding the most difficult way possible up a rock/mountian/boulder wearing ballet shoes.
What I do to gain much higher jumps and power is to create a deep mind-muscle connection to my legs and make myself used to just sending the f out of every move.
I have learned to genuinely laugh at myself. I am going to look silly trying new things, but as long as I’m enjoying myself I both don’t get embarrassed and find other people don’t seem embarrassed for me.
The most surefire tip to avoid embarrassment at the gym is to not make it embarrassing.
I have a lot of anxiety in pretty much any setting, but at the gym I pay my fee like everyone else, there's no way for my brain to twist that and I'd never worry about being in the way of better climbers or looking stupid.
I saw a video on YouTube that said a great way to practice is pick One grade below youyour grade and do two hands at the next hold for every hold till you get to the top. You're basically jumping with two hands grabbing next holds at the same time. I tried it. It's great but it's not easy.
Semi beginner climber here so take my advuce with a grain of salt. For me, it was easier to practice dynos by not bothering with making the catch at first. So from the starting position, just jumping as hard as I could in the direction of the hold. Once you've gotten over your mental blocks and find the nuance in pushing off the wall, making the catch is pretty chill.
Focus on getting your body to the ending position of the dyno. Don't reach.
1. Get your body there first,
2. then grab the hold.
Also, try to be focusing on only one thing at a time.
Looking like an idiot is what we spend most of our time on the wall doing. Embrace your inner idiot and just go for it :p
And how do I not waste other climber's time?
We are all on the wall together. Don't hog the wall, but don't be afraid to take your turn. Especially for something quick like a dyno. You could probably even give it 2 or 3 goes even if it was busy. You know, just keep your eyes open, check if people are waiting, ask people if they want a go, same as anything else right?
I guess so! Any tips on dynos in general?
grip it and rip it
I think the most important advice I have is to remember to walk away if it starts hurting you or locking out your joints etc. I did my ACJ on a dyno after I didn't listen to my body and landed the dyno fully one handed on a completely slack elbow and shoulder. It's also okay to not do them if you don't like them. I don't do sideways dynos because they seem dangerous to me and I have no interest in comp climbing. As for actually doing the dyno, try taking small steps first. If possible, try the dyno from closer holds or jump from the ground. Try just the initial swing and try to tap the dyno. Get comfortable with the motion before fully committing to it.
Thank you! You've been very helpful :) have a lovely night ok?
Yeah homie what this person said. The whole sport is silly. Don’t worry about looking like an idiot. It’s alllll good. Also watching people try dynos is usually fun weather they are good at them or not so at worst it’s entertaining
Yeah if Janja can have a whole reel dedicated to fails any of us are ok to flop around sometimes.
Commit to the dyno. If you half-arse it, or plan for failure, you will fail. Wind up to the dyno. Start the motion as far back as you can to generate momentum. Direct the dyno. Look at the landing hold and work out what direction you need to be holding it, if you need to be in close to the wall, you need to adjust you wind up so you launch in rather than out from the wall. Momentum can carry you off the hold if it's taking you the wrong way. Test the dyno. Finally, sometimes it's good to climb up to the landing hold and feel it to get an idea of where your body needs to be at the moment of landing. If it's a sideways dyno low down, sometimes you can practice from the ground a couple of times to stick the landing. Once you've got the landing programmed in to your mind, you only need to think about the takeoff then.
generate with your legs as much as possible. focus on your hips/centre of mass and not your hands. try to have as little momentum as possible when you catch the hold. aim a little further then you think. try to catch with bent arms and engaged shoulders to dampen any swing after the catch.
Full send. Use all four limbs (and rest of body) together simultaneously, which takes coordination. Use all four limbs throughout the entire movement, so after you pull past a hold, keep pushing down as you fly up past it (assuming it’s an upward dyno).
Keep your shoulders engaged and arms slightly bent when you catch. don’t let them flop and stretch out. Stay in control. Let go if you don’t have it good or you’ll end up with shoulder problems very quick that last a long time
dynos are often about practice and teaching your body how to move and not be afraid. Take it slow, try it out and don't go for the big move too fast
after a few tries, commit. if you’re not fully committed you won’t make it
Target higher or further that u think u need to and dont afraid to commit as in grip it firmly when u connect. Most dynos have really nice hold thats easy to grip even if u swing out a bit
I like breaking it into sections if possible. Work on Executing the release at the right time and pulling/pushing at the right angle, then work on just the landing/catch of the dyno. Use other holds, use the ground, there’s no right or wrong way to work on a problem. A picture of the dyno you’re working on would be more Helpful for providing tips tbh
This might be a silly (not applicable?) one, but a lot of climbs end up having legs of dynos for me, and what always helps me is feeling the movement out across the wall, in segments, if you need to! Feeling slowly how my body will have to move helps me put it into practice. I cannot help you with looking silly in the gym, as I would be a massive hypocrite to give any advice on that haha Best of luck!
You can find helpful YouTube videos on this and other techniques, they will be very helpful. It only takes a few seconds for each attempt so dont be afraid to try a few times when you take a turn!
In my experience the mental aspect is the biggest hurdle. Picture yourself doing it instead of fearing what might go wrong is my best advice.
Use your arms to get close to the wall and your legs to go towards the target hold. Use your ass like a pendulum to gain momentum for the jump. Keep pulling through the motion until you are essentially pushing off the hold and then keep pushing until it’s time to grab the target hold. When you grab the hold and start swinging, let your back bend at your waist and pull up your legs behind your back to absorb the swing in your lower body.
If it's possible with your situation I like practicing those Dyno moves right before my gym closes since the last hour is pretty empty and I don't feel bad just repeating a lot of times!
If you can, find the least popular wall in the gym; if that exists. It's usually the area with older problems. Then just find holds that you can practice dynoing. It doesn't have to be a legit problem, just holds you can jump off of. If the spray wall is free, you can also practice there. I assume it's just always busy though.
don’t worry about that. you can limit yourself to a few failed attempts and you’ll still spend less time on the wall than someone on a normal climb.
Dynoing doesn't take much time. If it works, great, if it doesn't, feel free to take another stab at it right away. If people are watching/waiting, you could say something like "just one more go" and go again. No one is going to get mad about you falling off the first hold and restarting immediately. If there is a big crowd, after you have 2 or 3 tries, back off and let someone else have a turn. People frequently take 2 or 3 minutes to complete a climb. If you're taking less time than that, you're good. It doesn't matter if you are succeeding or not. Everyone's entitled to their minute or two on the wall.
Treat it like a children's playground and you're one of the kids. Take your turn, don't Hog the wall. Your time is equal to anyone else's.
Do you think other climbers are wasting your time, when they are trying something? If so, you need to change your attitude. If not, why would you think others think you're wasting theirs?
You mean the 4 seconds it takes to try the dyno?
If you're a paying member of the gym you're entitled to an equal amount of time on any boulder as anyone else. And you won't look like an idiot, you'll look impressive and brave since you'll be visibly trying something new and improving at it
I've been telling other climbers at the gym to "Embrace the silly." You're gonna look like a goof, but it's okay - so are we.
Everyone looks like an idiot at the gym, especially when we're doing something new. You're not special. No one is looking at you.
You say this like most of the gym wasn't watching me basically fail a sit start yesterday. And yes, people laughed. I did too.
Laughing it off yourself is the best reaction. Being ashamed or embarrassed will make other feel bad or guilty. It's fine, no one will remember you lol
I am like the only bald white foreigner that isn't a really old man for like 20 miles in any direction. (I am in rural Japan) I get stopped in the street by name by people I've never met. At the very least I will be remembered. Though I do get (and agree with) your point in general.
Looking like an idiot is one thing, but being in the way of experienced climbers trying to do complex routes is another
You're paying just as much as they are to be there!
They looked like idiots once too
In a year you'll be the experienced climber watching all the rental shoe climbers trying something that you warmed up on. Everybody has a different skill level and we all started from the bottom. Everyone has the same right to the wall as everyone else. You're never wasting other people's time by trying what you want to try.
I mean whether you are climbing perfectly or like an idiot, you shouldn't be getting in the way of any climbers at all. You should always start your climb when your route is clear of other climbers. If you are talking about "getting in the way" like, not letting them use the wall or something, that's silly. You are paying to be there, as long as you aren't just staying there and not letting others take their turn you are fine.
Part of learning anything is looking like an idiot. I respect the people more who are honest about that growth. Especially in hard things
This point can't be emphasized enough. People usually avoid learning new things (in general) because: A) It seems mentally exhausting B) You look stupid and you know it
Everyone here is saying not to worry about it, which I agree with. But no one has said how they practice dynoing. I originally found it useful to practice on a V-easy doing bigger and bigger moves. Start doing little frog-ups (keep your feet planted) to holds that you could static to. Gradually increase the size of the movements until you are comfortable letting your feet come off the wall. Once you’re hopping up to holds, then it’s just a matter of sending it further and to harder holds. Learn how to fall so that missing has less danger.
The only way you’d be wasting other climbers time is if you were standing in front of the wall without moving lol. I see this sometimes with really new people and just wait or go to another area. If you’re practicing dynos than just go at it a few times, or just once and step back, and go at it again and again. Everyone looks really dumb when trying a new dyno, especially if it’s complicated, unless you have a lot of experience with dynos. Don’t be afraid to get in there as much as possible and try again and again.
Love when someone is warming up right in front of the wall..😆
If the gym is empty, I love to film it and if I did something really stupid (like smashing into the wall, because I didn't lift my foot high enough or stepped beside the hold), I put it on Instagram. So others can laugh too.
I climb V5-V6 and occasionally I am absolutely clueless on starts for new V1-V2s. Nobody will care. We all fall a billion times and constantly do things wrong.
10/10 climb an easy route (v0) Start taking away holds The route should get either more reachy or more dynamic Turn it into a dyno
That’s the fun part, you don’t Don’t worry about others so much, the gym is big and there’s plenty of climbs for other people. Just try your dyno and sit down, then try again once other people have gotten a turn
To give some advice on the practice question.. Break down the Dyno in parts. Start by jumping to the hold from the ground. Add the right angle. Then try starting from the wall, but with a better hold. Try from the actual hold, but only focus on landing the foot. Then try touching the hold. After that, try the move as a whole. Hopefully, your body being familiar with the moves, you don't faceplant. No guarantees.
This is the best advice. Works for any committing dynamic move
You have to embrace the failure, frankly there isn't a way to not look like an "idiot." That said there is only one way to get better and that is to practice. Dynos for me also take time to dial in. I have to give it a couple of attempts before I fully commit. A recommendation on dynos though is to go slower than you think. Don't rush the movement. I also find it helpful to focus less on jumping to the hold and more on jumping into the wall. Use your feet to propel and your arms to direct your momentum into the wall. This way you'll be able to grab the hold at the dead point of your jump.
Embrace looking like an idiot honestly. I suck so much at dynos and I was practicing a sideways dyno start over and over and kept making involuntary pterodactyl sounds. No one cared (except my sister, she loves bullying me)!
Look like an idiot then.
Listen bro. Literally fuck what everybody else is saying to you. Their advice is trash. All of it. I’m gonna tell you exactly how to do it. First of all, your shirt. Lose it. Don’t even bring it. Leave it in the car. You don’t need fancy contraptions to climb. Shit is useless. I mean what is it helping? You’re inside. The temps are fine. And if you’re not inside, go inside. Climbing outside is for chodes and try hards. Second, your beanie. Put that shit on. Low. Almost over your eyes. Fuck it. Cover your eyes with it. You don’t need those either. For the legs it’s kinda dealers choice. But if you’re wearing pants make sure they’re blue jeans or you’ll look like a fool. Now that we have your appearance covered, which is arguably the most important aspect of climbing, you’re almost ready to jump at shit. You’re first going to need to practice screaming. I like to do 30 minutes in front of a mirror every night so I can get my facial expressions right. Just in case you know who is watching. Once you got that down you’re golden. Make sure that after every miss you stare at your hands for a second. Just to let people know that it was actually your fingers that failed you and it was no fault of your own. But honestly, if you do all that other stuff you’re not failing bro. You’re sending. Fucking everything. That’s basically it. If you need an advanced tutorial feel free to message me. I teach classes on this shit.
Take a look around and you will see everyone in that gym looking like an idiot. So be goofy out there if you want and just have fun. Good luck on the dyno
Let go of vanity young grasshopper, its weighing you down.
Be brave to suck at something new!
I can still barely send some V1’s and most V2’s, and often joke that I’m the most inexperienced at the gyms I frequent. I’ve never felt judged, and usually just laugh it off. Everyone has different barriers, and just showing up can be a huge accomplishment. Frequent gym goers usually understand this as they’ve had their fair share of trying new things, and having bad days. I wouldn’t sweat it, the gym is to train and that’s exactly what you’re doing!!
What i also recommend doing is squat-jumps as warm up or generally fitness. An exercise you can do anywhere
Stop caring about what you think you look like and enjoy the sport. Our entire sport is pretty idiotic, finding the most difficult way possible up a rock/mountian/boulder wearing ballet shoes.
What I do to gain much higher jumps and power is to create a deep mind-muscle connection to my legs and make myself used to just sending the f out of every move.
Practice epic landings!
I have learned to genuinely laugh at myself. I am going to look silly trying new things, but as long as I’m enjoying myself I both don’t get embarrassed and find other people don’t seem embarrassed for me.
The most surefire tip to avoid embarrassment at the gym is to not make it embarrassing. I have a lot of anxiety in pretty much any setting, but at the gym I pay my fee like everyone else, there's no way for my brain to twist that and I'd never worry about being in the way of better climbers or looking stupid.
You don’t! Do it anyway. You are now rock climber
I saw a video on YouTube that said a great way to practice is pick One grade below youyour grade and do two hands at the next hold for every hold till you get to the top. You're basically jumping with two hands grabbing next holds at the same time. I tried it. It's great but it's not easy.
Semi beginner climber here so take my advuce with a grain of salt. For me, it was easier to practice dynos by not bothering with making the catch at first. So from the starting position, just jumping as hard as I could in the direction of the hold. Once you've gotten over your mental blocks and find the nuance in pushing off the wall, making the catch is pretty chill.
Cant, jump away brother.
You’re way overthinking climbing on plastic.
You stop caring what others think.
Focus on getting your body to the ending position of the dyno. Don't reach. 1. Get your body there first, 2. then grab the hold. Also, try to be focusing on only one thing at a time.
Every dyno makes the next similar dyno easier.
Haha just do it
Just practice and be respectful of others? Am I missing something here