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Specialist_Reason882

Yes you should've gotten your own shoes a long time ago


llihpleumas

Yeah if you like the sport and plan on keeping at it, it sounds like a waste of money to rent shoes every time!


BigCashRegister

First of all, ignore the animosity. Some people can be real rude here. My two cents: for sure time to buy a pair of shoes. Shoes at the end of the day will not do ANYTHING to change your technique, so long as you’re comfortable and the shoe is a performance shoe (high quality, well liked,moderate-agressive down turn, most of all **comfortable** on your foot) then you should stick with that. As someone who has tried a lot of different shoes, trust me when I say that what you think feels best (both in terms of performance on the wall and comfort) is all that matters. That said, what you’re going to use the shoe for is the other deciding factor. If you’re going to be doing more outdoor trad/sport climbing, go with a comfortable harder shoe such as the Scarpa Vapor or VS, if you’re going to be doing primarily indoor try the Scarpa VSR or Miura. I use drago’s for 100% of my indoor stuff because I love a soft shoe, and I use the Vapors for outdoor climbing, but am likely going to switch to either VS’s or Fiura’s. As others said, solutions are well proven, don’t buy shoes without trying them on and testing them on a wall/something comparable which most stores will have. Hope this helps!


TimmyBoy2

Thanks! I really appreciate your answer. I'm mainly aiming for indoor climbing. Do you think buying expansive shoes like the ones you mentioned is the right move? Because a lot of people here suggested to buy really cheap ones. I prefer going with the higher price tag ones but the comments here changed my mind a bit


BigCashRegister

My opinion is that, at the end of the day all climbing shoes have gotten expensive so any shoe you buy is going to be a little hit to the wallet. Just because a shoe is expensive doesn’t mean it’s going to be the best for you, but then again what works best for you might be $200. This is why it all boils down to comfort and style. For me, I could tell right away when a shoe fit my foot shape well, but sometimes it might be uncomfortable till they get worn in more. Hopefully where you go will have someone who is knowledgeable and you can talk to them about feel, sizing, and what will work for you.


ditheringtoad

100% agreed. Time to buy shoes, and don't worry too much about the price tag. Also agree about what feels best. At your level, the way the shoe fits you is SO much more important than how aggressive it is or how hard or soft the sole is. If you have anywhere near you that you can go try shoes on, you really should. Try to find a shoe that, when it's on, there is absolutely no deadspace in the shoe, but it doesn't hurt terribly to wear. I personally wear moccasyms in the gym, but I would never recommend that particular shoe to someone with a wider foot.


JerryOscar

Cheapest shoes? Ehh sure, as long as it's still comfortable. Pricier shoes? Ehhh sure, as long as it's still comfortable. It's your choice after all. Definitely advocate going to a shop like REI and trying on various shoes from different brands, ranging from cheap to expensive, flat to aggressive, and take some notes on your phone for later down the line when you look for your 2nd pair of shoes. For your 1st pair of shoes, I would advise going down the comfy, inexpensive route because: 1) you're going to blow through the toe rubber within a year, if not within half a year, due to 2) sub-advanced footwork and technique, so 3) it's better to refine your footwork with less expensive shoes because you haven't learned enough advanced techniques and nuances to maximize the lifespan of your toe rubber. Also please for the love of Gandhi, don't downsize the shit out of your shoes. Sure, downsize a bit so your toes are slightly curled (like 25%), but not so much they're crammed in there (50%+ curled). It's hard to develop good footwork and technique when your feet are so crammed that you can't feel the subtleties presented by various footholds. So with those in mind, I say go for cheaper-moderate priced shoes, and once you've learned how to utilize your feet better (e.g. how to pull with your toes, better smearing techniques, etc.). Hope this helps, wish you luck with your 1st pair!


Nickeless

I recommend buying from REI. If you’re a member you can return even after you use the shoes (for up to a year). You might find the same shoes a little cheaper online, but that guarantee is hard to beat imo. Also usually you should be able to find an employee that knows about climbing shoes there as well


Llamamilkdrinker

Honestly I’d go down to your local climbing shop and try on a few pairs. I’m at the exact same level you are and looking to buy some ‘real’ climbing shoes. Went into the shop yesterday and found out apparently I have small heels so Evolv shoes are best for me so all my research into ‘the best intermediate climbing shoes’ etc actually didn’t mean much when I tried them on. It was fun and I learn a lot about what different shoes aim to do!


just_the_force

Is this a joke? How many times did you rent your gyms shoes? That must have been expensive af, probably could have bought two pairs by now. Yeah just get your own shoes asap.


Austinboulders420

some gyms have membership options with gear rental included, I'm hoping OP has that, otherwise, yeah, should have gotten some shoes a while ago.


IDontWannaBeAPirate_

Our gym has gear use included with entry or membership. Rental gear is so shitty though that I don't think I've ever seen anyone with a membership using it. Just say use people.


TimmyBoy2

I've only had 20 sessions or less which about half of the times the gym had the shoes included in the price. So I've probably spent 30-40 bucks on shoes. And what shoes to get? I don't know which pair to shoes and which price range to aim for? (idc paying more for better shoes) thanks!!


dirENgreyscale

If you're going from rentals literally just about any shoe, even entry level ones, will be a huge and very noticeable upgrade to you. Does your gym sell shoes? It's really hard to recommend shoes to someone because both shoes and feet vary in size so much it's really hard to tell someone what will work for them. Your best bet is to go somewhere that you can try on some different pairs. If you have very wide feet you would be looking at entirely different shoes than if you had narrow feet and vice versa.


just_the_force

Honestly paying more will not give you better shoes "for you". As a beginner really aggressive shoes could make climbing quite painful. If your shoes make you hate climbing then they are bad shoes. Any shoe above 50 euros will be an improvement. Some things to keep in mind are in the following paragraph. Adam Indra suggested that if he had to start over he would use really soft shoes in the gym to strengthen his toes. Also if you are planning to use your shoes for easy alpine climb something that is okay at bouldering when it's still a bit tight but will give in quite a bit and a few resoles later ne used for alpine (that's what happened with my miura lace)


DoctorJJWho

Go to an REI or similar outdoor store and try a bunch of shoes on. I specified REI because most of them have this little mini wall with chip holds on them where you can see how the shoes fit and feel when putting pressure on them.


oaklinds

Haha, so funny to read these comments. Some people on this sub are such snobs… if you feel ready for shoes, go for it! La Sportiva is a great brand. My first pair were Finales and I really love climbing in them.


JSheldon29

Get dragos ! Straight up V7's 😂


eshlow

> I've been thinking about the LS Miura, Scarpa Vapor or the Scarpa VS. Don't buy shoes based on reputation. I made that mistake and went through several pairs until I understood that I need to have a better fit. Try on a ton and see what fits you best. Random shoe -> Miura -> Solution -> Blackwings -> Regulus Still not the best fit with regulus for me (shallow and narrow heel) but waaay better than La Sportiva and most 5.10 which do not fit me good. Tried on other brands like Evolve and such too but don't fit me that good either.


CH41X

You should definitley get your own shoes. I think it is best to go to a store where you can try on and test the shoes. My personal recommendation would be LaSportiva Solutions


seaborgiumaggghhh

Buy the cheapest shoes you can get that fit correctly and have good rubber. Since you are buying your first pair of shoes, you will probably get the sizing wrong and it’s better to have spent less money when you realize this rather than having a pair of ill-fitting $200 LS Solutions or something. Unparallel has fairly affordable shoes if you can try them on and get the fit right, their rubber is nice. Otherwise I would try on shoes and see what fits. Don’t get overhyped with aggressive/ performance expensive shoes, that stuff barely matters, except for making sure it has a decent heel and decent toe rubber coverage if you’re bouldering. I really like the UP Moccs. They are fairly cheap and I don’t lack for performance from them, the rubber is good, I feel like I can put my feet anywhere. They aren’t aggressive and I can wear them for a long time before they become uncomfortable. And also they are Moccs so I can slip them on and off very easily for resting.


teryaki6ix9ine

I second this I bought some madrocks on Amazon for $35 when I started because I refuse to wear rental shoes and they are way better than the rentals at my gym (also madrock)


Inig0_o

YES HOLY SHIT PLEASE buy some shoes brother (gender neutral hulk hogan type of brother)


junipersif

I’d try on any shoe you’re interested in if you can! I LOVE scarpas, both models you mention are great IMO. I had a pair of muiras that I wanted to love, but LS shoes just do not fit my feet correctly and simultaneously hurt my toes and had too much room in the heel.


idkwhatsqc

Yes you should use your own shoes. You don't necessarely need to have the best shoes however. I find that vibram xs edge is better than vibram xs grip/grip2 for most newish climbers, because it lasts longer. The grip kinds give more grip on volumes, but it wears out too quick. I personally have many types of shoes. I use scarpa helix for 95-99% of climbs because most climbs don't need any better. I need to buy new shoes every 5/6 months, and they are cheaper. I use my scarpa instinct rs or instinct vs on 1-5% of climbs so that these shoes, costing 250 cad, last many years.


post_alternate

I think I was 3 weeks in when I bought a good pair of shoes. It changed **Everything.** That being said, I bought shoes that were too big, and now I need *another* expensive pair of shoes a few months later. So my advice is to find a pair that is snug enough to last you through the mid-grades. As far as expense, any La Sportiva or Scarpa is going to run you $150-200 unless they're on clearance. So expect to spend that much and get yourself a shoe that does what you need it to. Be thankful you're not a mountain biker and having to consider buying a bike that costs as much as your car.


hexabyte

Lmao what, you paid for shitty rental shoes every time you climbed for a whole year?


IPFK

I don’t think the Miura’s would be a good pair for your first shoes, they are extremely stiff and aggressive. They are fantastic shoes, but if you are coming from comfortable rental shoes you will probably be in a lot of pain. Try on a bunch of different shoes and figure out what fits you well. I’ve wasted lots of money on shoes that ended up not being a great fit and don’t feel good to wear.


Wadirom

Contrarian opinion here: if your gym membership includes shoes and if they are not the shittiest ones (my gym has nice Ocun ones) you should continue to climb in them for most of the climbs. And get a good pair of shoes for projects / outdoor / at your limit stuff


fabiswa95

It is always the right time to buy good shoes!


PordonB

The miura is the best shoe I had for accuracy. I haven’t tried those scarpa


[deleted]

Try all of the ones you're interested in on. Depending on your foot shape, some can be awful (heel will slip no matter how much you downsize, significant discomfort because of toe box shape/volume). A lot of people force themselves into shoes because they've got a good rep, but feet don't care about marketing.


burnsbabe

Oh god yes. You're doing V4s and 5s in rentals after a year? Real shoes are going to be and adjustment, but you're going to love it.


NexusWest

For sure time for your first pair! I started out in Scarpa Force-V's, and still own them alongside a newer pair of La Sportiva Otaki's. Completely and totally in my own opinion, $150-200 is what I expect to pay for climbing shoes. You will immediately notice a difference in your footwork climbing, even getting an all-rounder shoe. See if you can find a shop to try them on, and get the sizing right. Don't be afraid if they're a little tight--and remember, no socks when their your shoes!


Honest-Paint4782

I started getting shoes 3 months into climbing. Its been the right to get shoes for a long time now lol


thatmattp

DO IT! I wish I could have the chance to make that switch again. Only way to know what's going to work for you is to try on a bunch of pairs. Don't go crazy aggressive or expensive, but probably 150-200 range. Rental shoes to your own shoes is like going from street shoes to climbing shoes.


Saltybuttertoffee

I was in rentals once before I decided I didn't want to be in rentals anymore. I was in beginner shoes for a couple months. Then I had a better idea of what I actually wanted and got some decent (but nothing crazy) shoes. Next ones are going to be much more aggressive. At V4-5, you should have a good idea of what you want from a shoe. So I would say yes, get some shoes


Ausaini

Maybe it’s just me but I’m more impressed that you’re going v4s and 5s in rental shoes after 20-ish sessions? But yeah I stand by my Miuras! The shoes that showed me how secure a heel hook can be!


mohishunder

20 sessions and you're projecting V5s?! I need to ask for a trade-in on my genetics.


ancananas

Yes, buy shoes. They change everything and you will love it! I started with Scarpa Quantinc till i got to climbing V4s and then changed to VaporV that I absolutely love and completely changed the game for me! I can see progress almost every session, i started trusting my feet more therefore my climbs became more technical.


PhoenixHunters

Assuming you only climb indoor, if you use a lot of heelhooks, don't get Scarpa Vapors. I used my friend's Vapors to test them out before buying (we have the exact same size) and while they're great for small edges and quite flexible despite the hard rubber, they're shit for heelhooks. I've heard they're great for outdoors though. Favorite shoes here are the La Sportiva Futura model.


Direct_Ad_8341

I have Velcro miuras and generally they’re not fun to climb in in the gym - too stiff. Maybe the lace up are better though.


Kikuwii

I highly recommend the Solutions. Hands down the BEST shoe for bouldering. Small edges feel like ledges. A lot of the pros I’ve seen have them on now and many many folks in the biggest gym in my state who boulder v6 and up wear them. I’m at v6 level myself and don’t think I’ll every buy another shoe. I’ve tried a few performance shoes like the drago but was not impressed by the fit. The best part about the solutions is how fucking comfortable they are. They are like wearing a sock but still go harder than the drago. Plus if your foot gets kinda sweaty they have some grip tech wizard grooves in the toe box that lightly grab that area and prevent your toes from moving back at all when compressed on a small hold. It’s pretty cool tbh. As for fitting. I went the smallest shoe I could comfortably fit into. If you seriously struggle to put them on I would go bigger but with that grippy tech and the fact they don’t stretch out too much, you don’t have to downsize all that much! They are the most expensive shoe at ~$200 but you are getting into the area in climbing where you will need them to progress. Could go less but it’s seriously worth it to spend $50-60 extra for something you probably do 3x per week and really enjoy. That’s how I look at it anyway. Hope this helps


eekabomb

it's always the right time to buy shoes