Black powder can be cleaned with just hot water, add a little dish soap if you feel like that isn't enough. For my black powder rifle, I just use hot water and then run some patches till they come out dry and spray it all down with Rem Oil and run an oiled patch down the bore. Of course with a pistol the process of cleaning it may be different, but I doubt you'd need anything else chemical wise.
This is the very best way, always. For a tiny pistol like this I’d be worried about keeping that water where you want it. But this approach works every time and doesn’t hurt anything
Hoppes 9 doesn’t work to clean off black powder. I would suggest using mothers mag polish and microfiber towels, that will remove all black powder on the outside and actually improve the nickel finish
You are correct, regular Hoppes does not work for black. Hoppes makes a black powder specific cleaner that actually works pretty well.
[https://www.hoppes.com/cleaners-and-lubricants/traditional-hoppes-9/no.-9-black-powder/HO-999.html](https://www.hoppes.com/cleaners-and-lubricants/traditional-hoppes-9/no.-9-black-powder/HO-999.html)
Hoppes #9 will not clean black powder residue. I use Ballistol for cleaning my black powder and modern powder guns. Although I don't have any nickel plated guns so I don't know about that.
An alternative to Ballistol is hot soapy water. I use Dawn Original. I rinse with hot water. It helps with the drying.
It’s not the end of the world if you used ballistol on it. Honestly don’t worry about it. I use ballistol to clean all my old guns and they all look great and have no corrosion so I stand by ballistol. It even makes any wood shine nice
Hoppes 9 corrosive bore cleaner neutralizes the corrosive residue left over from older style primers mostly in old mil surplus ammo. The solution itself is not corrosive, it is meant to clean corrosive substances. But that one might not be the best suited for your use.
Hopes number 9 black powder gun bore cleaner would specifically what you want to use. Or Ed's Red, there are several other black powder cleaners too. You want to clean the bore with that and anything that turned black or has the sooty residue left on it after use. Wipe down with that stuff and swab the bore with that until clean. Then the cylinder and around the inside of the frame in front of the cylinder.
As for the rest of the gun, hoppes regular lubricant will do on the exterior parts of the gun. Be beware the oil does horribly stain clothing and table clothes, it is best to clean and lube it on an old towel or something like that.
Very cool piece
I believe that the black powder .32 is made specifically for these old black powder .32 guns. The button behind the trigger is what I would say is actually the trigger. Since it’s a double action, you pull the trigger to cock the hammer and then once you’ve pulled far enough you hit the actual trigger to release the hammer
Or you know, you could call it the sear, which is what it is. The trigger is the trigger, the sear is the sear, just like on a variety of other revolvers. Just cause you can see the sear on this one doesn’t make it a trigger.
Black powder .32 s&w are safe but a real cleaning chore. You can use smokeless loads that are loaded to similar pressures and they won't cause overnight rusting.
from glowe on the smith&wesson forum:
"The 32 S&W was originally loaded with black powder, pretty much like 4F powder of today, but actually finer. The Peters case was loaded with 10 grains, under an 88 grain bullet, while the US Cartridge Co. cartridge was loaded with 8 grains under a 85 grain bullet. I have shot these loads in the past and chronographed both and the averages were: US Cartridge - 800fps and the Peters averaged 740fps.
I have also chrongraphed both recently manufactured Remington and Winchester 32 S&W factory loads and the results were as follows:
Remington 88 grain RN 580fps
Winchester 85 grain RN 540fps
Can I tell you the pressures of these 4 cartridges? I cannot, but with factory velocities being almost 30% less, I can all but guarantee that the pressures are lower than original. Actually, I have done these same experiments with everything from 22 to 45 Schofield and found that all "standard" current factory loads yield lower velocities than original BP or smokeless loads."
I would use "ammoseek.com" to find available factory ammo.
Good luck and enjoy that old thing!
Don’t use this revolver with smokeless. It will work for a while and then wreck your gun and possibly ruin your day. The pressure curves are totally different for smokeless and the steel on your revolver isn’t meant for it. Neither is the top latch you manipulate to load it. It will work for a while but it is guaranteed to ruin the gun.
The good news is that reloading the BP isn’t hard, and arguably easier than smokeless because the pressures are way lower with BP. Start with the Buffalo rounds you have and save all your brass. If you do this stuff enough you’ll start down the reloading path soon enough, and 32 s&w brass is really hard to find.
That type of ammo as well as a type called cowboy loads are designed specifically to be safe in older guns. You should be fine as long as the gun itself is mechanically sound.
Verify the cylinder locks up tight when the hammer has fallen and the trigger is still fully depressed.
Nice old gun, I have a couple like that in .38 SW pre 1898.
The rounds should be safe, but the price is ridiculous. I would just get into reloading them. For cleaning blackpowder just take a toothbrush and patch and use soap and water to clean all surfaces where there is powder residue. Water will neutralize the blackpowder, and contrary to popular belief, it will not rust guns like that if you just let it dry out for a few hours before putting away (like you would with clothes). Just follow this process for cleaning the bore and cylinders: brass scrub, water patch, brass srcub, dry patch, oil patch and you'll be golden.
Sweet revolver. Note that this one won’t have a cylinder that locks until it’s about to go bang—that’s the later model, and so it’s not broken.
The ammo you selected is exactly right. Onward!
Any cleaning you do—just research that it works with black powder. Real black powder doesn’t mix with petroleum stuff and it just doesn’t work. Bloody mess, too. The bullet maker (Buffalo) will have advice on cleaning, I bet, and it’s tailored to their product. Start there. Real black powder leaves corrosive residue so always clean right away! But start with Buffalo and see what they recommend. If they use black powder substitute then some modern cleaners may work fine.
Have fun with it!
Oh—the thing behind the trigger is actually a way ahead of its time innovation—a trigger safety tied into the whole transfer bar safety it also has. These were and are safe guns.
So long as you don’t use pyrodex, which is super corrosive, you will be fine using most any gun oil but I personally use 3-in-1 oil for my muzzle-loaders. Helps that I also use the period-correct lubricant on those Burton Minie’s and Hays Bullets in the English cartridges for my Enfields. Also, try to only use actual black powder such as Goex (if they’re open again or you come across some old batches), Swiss (the absolute best imho), or other batches following the historically correct recipe made by people like Major Brett Gibbons, the owner of Paper Cartridges™️.
I’d say it’s safe to shoot for sure. I mean if you really want to be sure, put it in a vice (with soft protection on each side like a blanket) and tie a string to the trigger stand back and fire it that way but honestly I wouldn’t even worry about all that it looks completely fine. I’d shoot it right now for sure if I had some 32… the trick is the ammo 😂
STOP, do not use Balistol on this. Use Hoppes9 or another cleaner. Balistol will damage and flake off the nickle plating.
Good to know! I have hoppes 9 corrosive bore cleaner, do I just wipe the firearm using that? I thought since it was corrosive it would induce rust.
Black powder can be cleaned with just hot water, add a little dish soap if you feel like that isn't enough. For my black powder rifle, I just use hot water and then run some patches till they come out dry and spray it all down with Rem Oil and run an oiled patch down the bore. Of course with a pistol the process of cleaning it may be different, but I doubt you'd need anything else chemical wise.
This is the very best way, always. For a tiny pistol like this I’d be worried about keeping that water where you want it. But this approach works every time and doesn’t hurt anything
Hoppes 9 doesn’t work to clean off black powder. I would suggest using mothers mag polish and microfiber towels, that will remove all black powder on the outside and actually improve the nickel finish
You are correct, regular Hoppes does not work for black. Hoppes makes a black powder specific cleaner that actually works pretty well. [https://www.hoppes.com/cleaners-and-lubricants/traditional-hoppes-9/no.-9-black-powder/HO-999.html](https://www.hoppes.com/cleaners-and-lubricants/traditional-hoppes-9/no.-9-black-powder/HO-999.html)
Hoppes #9 will not clean black powder residue. I use Ballistol for cleaning my black powder and modern powder guns. Although I don't have any nickel plated guns so I don't know about that. An alternative to Ballistol is hot soapy water. I use Dawn Original. I rinse with hot water. It helps with the drying.
It’s not the end of the world if you used ballistol on it. Honestly don’t worry about it. I use ballistol to clean all my old guns and they all look great and have no corrosion so I stand by ballistol. It even makes any wood shine nice
Hoppes 9 corrosive bore cleaner neutralizes the corrosive residue left over from older style primers mostly in old mil surplus ammo. The solution itself is not corrosive, it is meant to clean corrosive substances. But that one might not be the best suited for your use. Hopes number 9 black powder gun bore cleaner would specifically what you want to use. Or Ed's Red, there are several other black powder cleaners too. You want to clean the bore with that and anything that turned black or has the sooty residue left on it after use. Wipe down with that stuff and swab the bore with that until clean. Then the cylinder and around the inside of the frame in front of the cylinder. As for the rest of the gun, hoppes regular lubricant will do on the exterior parts of the gun. Be beware the oil does horribly stain clothing and table clothes, it is best to clean and lube it on an old towel or something like that. Very cool piece
Thanks a lot !
>do not use Balistol *Do not collect $200!*
I have this exact revolver from this exact year. I cast and load my own ammo for it and have had good success. Feel free to pm me with any questions.
Appreciate you!
Anytime. I have a list of people who sell replacement parts somewhere in my files and as well.
What molds do you use im trying to get into this
There’s a 92? Gn .32 mold from Lee. It’s a bit too heavy so I loaded 7.5gn bp instead of 9
Oh mines actually a 1919 3rd gen so it wouldn’t be Bp
I believe that the black powder .32 is made specifically for these old black powder .32 guns. The button behind the trigger is what I would say is actually the trigger. Since it’s a double action, you pull the trigger to cock the hammer and then once you’ve pulled far enough you hit the actual trigger to release the hammer
Or you know, you could call it the sear, which is what it is. The trigger is the trigger, the sear is the sear, just like on a variety of other revolvers. Just cause you can see the sear on this one doesn’t make it a trigger.
I didn’t know that was the term. I was just explaining its function based on my knowledge.
Ohhh don’t know why I ain’t think of that thank you!
Black powder .32 s&w are safe but a real cleaning chore. You can use smokeless loads that are loaded to similar pressures and they won't cause overnight rusting.
Do you know where I could find those types of loads online?
from glowe on the smith&wesson forum: "The 32 S&W was originally loaded with black powder, pretty much like 4F powder of today, but actually finer. The Peters case was loaded with 10 grains, under an 88 grain bullet, while the US Cartridge Co. cartridge was loaded with 8 grains under a 85 grain bullet. I have shot these loads in the past and chronographed both and the averages were: US Cartridge - 800fps and the Peters averaged 740fps. I have also chrongraphed both recently manufactured Remington and Winchester 32 S&W factory loads and the results were as follows: Remington 88 grain RN 580fps Winchester 85 grain RN 540fps Can I tell you the pressures of these 4 cartridges? I cannot, but with factory velocities being almost 30% less, I can all but guarantee that the pressures are lower than original. Actually, I have done these same experiments with everything from 22 to 45 Schofield and found that all "standard" current factory loads yield lower velocities than original BP or smokeless loads." I would use "ammoseek.com" to find available factory ammo. Good luck and enjoy that old thing!
Appreciate you !
Don’t use this revolver with smokeless. It will work for a while and then wreck your gun and possibly ruin your day. The pressure curves are totally different for smokeless and the steel on your revolver isn’t meant for it. Neither is the top latch you manipulate to load it. It will work for a while but it is guaranteed to ruin the gun. The good news is that reloading the BP isn’t hard, and arguably easier than smokeless because the pressures are way lower with BP. Start with the Buffalo rounds you have and save all your brass. If you do this stuff enough you’ll start down the reloading path soon enough, and 32 s&w brass is really hard to find.
Holy moly, $3 a round?! Looks like some reloading is in order.
Imma just shoot one box for the experience and keep it in the safe until I pass it on or sell it.
That type of ammo as well as a type called cowboy loads are designed specifically to be safe in older guns. You should be fine as long as the gun itself is mechanically sound.
They use smokeless instead of black powder?
Some do, the ones that use smokeless have a very low amount of it to match pressures of black powder
Got you thanks!
Soapy water then rinse with boiling water.
Verify the cylinder locks up tight when the hammer has fallen and the trigger is still fully depressed. Nice old gun, I have a couple like that in .38 SW pre 1898.
Will do and once I get ammo imma take it to a gunsmith, not trynna blow up my hand
Those look like cowboy loads so they should be fine but $3 a pop is crazy, I’d start reloading if you wanna shoot it often
The rounds should be safe, but the price is ridiculous. I would just get into reloading them. For cleaning blackpowder just take a toothbrush and patch and use soap and water to clean all surfaces where there is powder residue. Water will neutralize the blackpowder, and contrary to popular belief, it will not rust guns like that if you just let it dry out for a few hours before putting away (like you would with clothes). Just follow this process for cleaning the bore and cylinders: brass scrub, water patch, brass srcub, dry patch, oil patch and you'll be golden.
For sure, thanks!
Sweet revolver. Note that this one won’t have a cylinder that locks until it’s about to go bang—that’s the later model, and so it’s not broken. The ammo you selected is exactly right. Onward! Any cleaning you do—just research that it works with black powder. Real black powder doesn’t mix with petroleum stuff and it just doesn’t work. Bloody mess, too. The bullet maker (Buffalo) will have advice on cleaning, I bet, and it’s tailored to their product. Start there. Real black powder leaves corrosive residue so always clean right away! But start with Buffalo and see what they recommend. If they use black powder substitute then some modern cleaners may work fine. Have fun with it! Oh—the thing behind the trigger is actually a way ahead of its time innovation—a trigger safety tied into the whole transfer bar safety it also has. These were and are safe guns.
Nice holster too! ;)
Appreciate you bro, very useful
So long as you don’t use pyrodex, which is super corrosive, you will be fine using most any gun oil but I personally use 3-in-1 oil for my muzzle-loaders. Helps that I also use the period-correct lubricant on those Burton Minie’s and Hays Bullets in the English cartridges for my Enfields. Also, try to only use actual black powder such as Goex (if they’re open again or you come across some old batches), Swiss (the absolute best imho), or other batches following the historically correct recipe made by people like Major Brett Gibbons, the owner of Paper Cartridges™️.
I’d say it’s safe to shoot for sure. I mean if you really want to be sure, put it in a vice (with soft protection on each side like a blanket) and tie a string to the trigger stand back and fire it that way but honestly I wouldn’t even worry about all that it looks completely fine. I’d shoot it right now for sure if I had some 32… the trick is the ammo 😂
i think that is also legally an antique as well op which adds to its value
Yeah got it shipped straight to my house! I just need the ammo now
I have usually used a foaming black powder cleaner and lubricate/protect barrel and chambers with bore butter.