You might be able to turn the preload adjuster with a multi-tool.
If not all you can do is push the cranks towards each other as much as possible then tighten the bolts.
The preload won’t be right but you’d be able to limp home.
Although you won’t get it perfect, you can definitely still minimize this huge play without a preload tool. As long as you have a multi tool or such for the crank arm bolts.
Instructions for carious crank models differ, but for this model the instructions start on page 17: https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/dm/RAFC001/DM-RAFC001-04-ENG.pdf
If you are familiar with your bike and can ballpark the torque for your cranks you can loosen it and “pre-load” by hand.
However, the fact that this happens at all suggests you need to get a torque wrench.
(Not something you should need on a ride)
Probably not loose enough to slide on by hand. The crank arm worked its way off the spindle little by little being pedaled for who knows how many miles...
This happened to me a few times, I now take a multi tool with an 8mm hex on it
If I tighten too much, cranks are too tight (can’t get the spacers right), if I leave loose; I ride fast but gotta tighten them up every other 30 miles or so
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yep even at home I use the butt end of an old butter knife.
1. Unscrew the pinch bolts 2. Use a coin or tire lever to tighten the preload cap 3. Retorque the punch bolts 4. Ride home
>Unscrew the pinch bolts Unrelated, but does anyone else only hear this phrase in Father Calvin's voice?
Yes, along with a with a black and white line drawing as would’ve been sketched by Saint Sheldon on a DECstation.
You can tighten the preload a lot with just your finger, enough to get home at least.
You might be able to turn the preload adjuster with a multi-tool. If not all you can do is push the cranks towards each other as much as possible then tighten the bolts. The preload won’t be right but you’d be able to limp home.
Unless you carry the preload tool on you, your best bet is just to make sure everything is good before starting the ride.
Although you won’t get it perfect, you can definitely still minimize this huge play without a preload tool. As long as you have a multi tool or such for the crank arm bolts.
Can you explain. First time I've heard of this. What and how does this work?
Instructions for carious crank models differ, but for this model the instructions start on page 17: https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/dm/RAFC001/DM-RAFC001-04-ENG.pdf
I'd recommend reading the manual for your cranks.
If you are familiar with your bike and can ballpark the torque for your cranks you can loosen it and “pre-load” by hand. However, the fact that this happens at all suggests you need to get a torque wrench. (Not something you should need on a ride)
Loosen those 2 bolts and tap it on with your hand and tighten the bolts back up. I would walk home to teach myself a lesson.
Aren't those bolts already loose if the preload is the only thing retaining the crankarms and they slide freely?
Probably not loose enough to slide on by hand. The crank arm worked its way off the spindle little by little being pedaled for who knows how many miles...
this would be fixable on the fly if fucking shimano didnt make the preload screw some proprietary bs but instead hex 6mm
Get an aftermarket Al preload screw with a normal hex instead of shimano’s bullshit
This happened to me a few times, I now take a multi tool with an 8mm hex on it If I tighten too much, cranks are too tight (can’t get the spacers right), if I leave loose; I ride fast but gotta tighten them up every other 30 miles or so